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PICTOEIAL DESCRIPTION 



UNITED STATES; 



EMBRACING THE 



HISTORY, GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION, AGRICULTURAL AND MINERAL 

RESOURCES, POPULATION, MANUFACTURES, COMMERCE. AND 

SKETCHES OF CITIES, TOWNS, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c., &c., 

OF 

EACH STATE m TERRITORY L\ THE UNION. 

INTERSPERSED WITH 

REVOLUTIONARY AND OTHER INTERESTING INCIDENTS, CONNECTED WITH 
THE EARLY SETTLEMENT OF THE COUNTRY. 

3Uii3tratrli tnitlj Inmnnus d^ngrnnings. 

BY KOBEET SEARS. 












NEW EDITION, RE7ISEB AND ENLA£6ED. 



1881 



NEW YORK: 

PUBLISHED BY ROBERT SEARS. 

181 WILLIAM STREET. 



1860. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854. 
By ROBERT SEARS, 
.lie Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Southern 
District of New York. 



',^^ 



I /c9 



H9 



THE HONORABLE 

DAVID SEARS, 

AS A TOKEN OF RESPECT FOR HIS 

PUBLIC CHARACTER AND PRIVATE VIRTUES, 

THIS VOLUME 
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY THE 

COMPILER. 




INTRODUCTION. 

Thk history of America has not, like that of the Old World, the charm of classical or 
romantic associations ; but in useful instruction and moral dignity, it has no equal. It is 
scarce three quarters of a century since this fair and flourishing republic was a colony of 
England, scarcely commanding the means of existence without the aid of the mother-coun- 
try, who was herself oppressed by European wars. Our puritan ibrefathers began in the 
rough fields of Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, on a broad, comprehensive 
principle, which has gone forth to fraternize the world. Our history, therefore, like thot 
poetical temple of fame reared by the imagination of Chaucer, and decorated by the taste 
of Pope, is almost exclusively dedicated to the memory of the truly great. Within, no 
idle ornament encumbers its bold simplicity. The pure light of heaven enters from above, 
and sheds an equal and serene radiance around. As the eye wanders about its extent, it 
beholds the unadorned monuments of brave and good men, who have bled or toiled for their 
country ; or it rests on votive tablets inscribed with the names of the blessed .benefactors 
of mankind. 

The puritans of England — the resolute conquerors of the lakes and forests of the New 
World — occupied, in the first period of their social existence, the depressed position of a Euro- 
pean colony ; but the spirit of liberty which had led them to these wild regions, and the gifts 
of a magnificent and fertile nature, were sufficient to prepare them for their high destiny.* 
This rude apprenticeship lasted more than one hundred and fifty years before the hour of 



* We rejoice to see a disposition manifested by the con- 
ductors of the secular press, to sanction the great princi- 
ples of morality and religion, which lie at the foundation of 
social happiness and national prosperity. We have no confi- 
dence in the stability and success of any form of government 
which does not recognise God "as the Ruler of nations." 

" Washington was undoubtedly the man of the age in 
which he lived. He was raised up by Providence for the 
accomplishment of a most important and difficult work. 
But vrise and gifted as he was, he would never have 
achieved the sublime results which crowned his efforts, if 
he had not had the best material the world has ever fur- 
nished, for laying the foundation of a government, under 
whose beneficent influences we have been happy and 
prosperous. Indeed, the germs of our republic may be 
traced back long prior to the Revolution. They are seen 
In the spirit, the intelligence, the probity, the indomitable 



perseverance, and the piety, of the little band who reached 
our shores in the May- Flower. It was there, in the solemn 
compact into which they entered before leaving their frail 
bark, that we see the incipient steps taken which led on, 
by a process slow but sure, to the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence. There is nothing that rouses our indignation 
more eflectually, than to hear the miserable prating of 
some who have yet to learn the rudiments of our true his- 
tory, throwing out their sneers, and casting contempt upon 
those to whom they are indebted for their rich privileges, 
and whose 'shoe's latchet they are not worthy to unloose.' 
Such a man 

" * Ib fit for treason, stratagems, and spoils; 
The motions of bis spirit are dull as night, 
And Ills a(Tection.i dark as Erebus. 
Let no such man be trusted.' " 

Philadelphia North American. 



change struck ; and in the night of the 18th of April, 1775, the cannons of Lexington called 
a new-born nation to regenerate the Avorld. The people rose as one man, and turning the 
ploughshare that tilled the soil into a sword to defend it, they threw themselves upon their 
unjust oppressors, and proclaimed at Philadelphia the immortal principles of self-govern- 
ment, that made tyrants tremble and every generous heart palpitate with joyful hope. At 
that moment a new name was inscribed on the catalogue of great nations. If not in na- 
tional- importance, it was great by the moral influence it immediately exercised on the 
world. England, overwhelmed with a debt of one hundred and twenty-eight and a half 
millions sterling, chargeable with an annual interest of four and a half millions, wished to 
transfer a portion of the burden to her colonies, and attempted to infringe their righis by 
the imposition of the celebrated stamp-tax. The colonists admitted the justice of all the 
members of a confederation contributing, according to their ability, to the support of the 
common government, since the prosperity of each depends on the security and well-being 
of all, but declared they could not and ought not share in tJie expenses of a war with which 
they had nothing to do, and a luxurious court which was equally repugnant to their repose 
and American simplicity. At first England affected to acknowledge the right of the colo- 
nies to refuse to pay for faults they had no share in committing ; but after the pause of a 
few years, she renewed her attacks under a different form. With equal firmness America 
repelled the second attempt to violate her liberties ; and England, offended at this unex- 
ampled audacity, closed the port of Boston, and kindled the flames of a war which doubled 
her troublesome debt. Then appeared the host of blazing meteors that illumined the path 
of our Revolution, and now watch in their high spheres over our safety. They broke the 
chains of thirteen colonies, and offered to the astonished world the most sublime spectacle 
of ancient or modern times — the fusion of all races, tongues, and sects, in the one political 
religion of liberty. The Declaration of Independence fomid thirteen states and three mill- 
ions of people; now there are thirty-one states, and a population of twenty-five millions. 
The whole exterior commerce of the republic, at 1780, amounted to about eight and a half 
millions annually ; now our annual exports exceed one hundred and fifty-eight millions, 
while our internal commerce is valued at five hundred millions per year, without estima- 
ting the home consumption. 

What a change has the progress of civilization effected on this vast continent during the 
last two centuries; and Avhat a glorious change to the enlightened mind.* Then a few 
ill-constructed roads, and the water-courses nature had bestowed, were our only means of 
intercommunication ; now, about ten thousand miles of railway and numerous canals, 
which embrace, in continuous lines of navigation, thirty thousand miles of lake and river, 
render the most northern corner of Maine nearer in time to Florida and Mexico than was Bos- 
ton to Charleston in those days. Steam and the magnetic telegraph have annihilated distance. 
A few years ago, and the majestic forest spread its wing far and wide, and the Indian was 
monarch of all he surveyed — traversing its wilds with his spear, or navigating its lakes 
with his bark canoe. What was once gloomy forests is now beautiful villages and populous 
cities, teeming with industrious and intelligent inhabitants, ministering to the wants of the 
mother-country. Our vast prairies are now becoming thrifty farms, and the produce of every 
climate smiles upon our shores. The application of steam to various purposes has produced 
wonderful results. America and England are brought withtn a ten-days' voyage, and China 
will in fifty years be, comparatively, as near as England now is: the whole world will yet 
be neighbors to each other, and peace and good will universally prevail among mankind. 

In the preparation of the following work, we have found new reason to admire the rapid 
progress of our own country in population, the arts, and the various institutions which ac- 



* The following passage will realize to our readers the 
condition of things two hundred years ago : — 

" The number of the pilgrims was but one hundred, all 
told. The bark in which they crossed the ocean was of 
less capacity than that of one of the craft which navigate 
our Schuylkill canal. The length of their voyage was the 
same with that of Columbus, a little more than a century 
before. The Spaniards had held their ' revels in the halls 
of the Montezumas' during the greater part of this centu- 
ry. Virginia had been settled a few years, and contained 
from five hundred to one thousand inhabitants. What we 
now call New England was regarded as an island — a mis- 
take not corrected in old England so late as the time of an 
official despatch of Lord North's during our Revolution. 
They came from England, and our thoughts are naturally 
turned to the condition of things in England at the time. 
They had not much glass for their houses, and not a great 
deal of linen for their persons ; no tea.or colfee. and but 
little sugar for their tables, in old England then. They had 
no science of chymistry or of geology ; no knowledge of 



electiicity or of the power of steam ; scarcely any manu- 
factures, but very imperfect agriculture, and very little 
horticulture. Crossbows had scarcely gone out of use in 
war, and their firearms generally had matchlocks. They 
had their old baronial establishments, their ruined castles, 
and deserted monasteries ; their magnificent cathedrals, 
their two gi-eat universities, their vast enclosures for parks 
and presen-es. They had monuments of the times of the 
Druids, and abiding evidence that England, for two centu- 
ries, had been a Roman province. They boasted of a con- 
stitution ; but it existed principally in custom, depending 
upon uncertain memory, and there were precedents of all 
kinds — those favoring prerogative greatly prevailing over 
those in favor of liberty. From the peasant to the prince, 
the distance was more awful than we can well imagine. 
For five thousand years the human race had been subject, 
all the world over, to the dominion of arbitrai-y power. 
From the earliest period of recorded time, history had 
been occupied with the rise and fall of kingdoms and of 
kings." 



INTRODUCTION. 



company and promote civilization, morals, and religion, as well as national extension, 
wealth, and power. Great pains have been taken, and expense incurred, to introduce 
some of the most important, appropriate, and interesting scenes, sketches of character, and 
other matters embraced in the wide surface of the American Union. In the older states, the 
historical details offered for a work of this kind are superabundant ; and the only difficulty 
is found in making a selection of periods, and in sufficiently condensing the matter, without 
reducing it to the form of mere statistics. Respecting the new states, we can assure the 
reader that the labor of collecting the latest and most authentic information has been very 
great. We take pleasure in acknowledging our obligations to those benevolent and intelli- 
gent friends at a distance who have aided us in collecting the most recent statistics relating 
to some of the most flourishing parts of our country. 

We can not but feel, in looking upon the numerous and important subjects to which the 
attention of our readers is here directed — as we pass from one portion of the country to an- 
other, that they, as well as ourselves, must naturally and almost unavoidably be strongly 
impressed with several great and salutary reflections. To read the history of any country 
or people, without permanent benefit, would be to waste time and to abuse one of the most 
important branches of human knowledge ; but to pass over descriptions of our own land, 
and the history of our own people, without giving them any serious regard, or drawing from 
them any of those interesting and salutary lessons which they are adapted to supply, be- 
yond almost any other part of the world or portion of the human family, would prove a 
frivolity of mind, or an insensibility of heart, too great for any author willingly to attribute 
to the circle of his readers. 

We are indeed aware of the extent to which the floods of fictitious writings, at the pres- 
ent day, vitiate the public taste, waste the time, enfeeble the mind, and, alas ! pervert the 
heart ; and we find new reason every day to lament the various evils, both mental and 
moral, which are brought upon individuals and society by that pernicious cause. But still 
we knoAv full well, that there are those who keep their minds and their hearts free from 
the contamination, as well as the debilitating influences, of that miserable kind of reading 
(which deserves not the title of literature), and that there are persons, in all parts of the 
country, whose native strength of intellect and manly Christian principles have never been 
subjected to the insidious, injurious, and often ruinous influence of fiction-reading. Heavy 
responsibility rests upon those who write for the public. Tutors of the world, they may 
not lightly assume nor thoughtlessly discharge a very important office. Every line found 
wanting in moral tone should be instantly erased. Incalculable evil may follow its publi- 
cation — for in that the depraved find countenance, and the young example and encourage- 
ment. He is without excuse — nay, he is grossly culpable — who trifles with the welfare 
of society, or neglects to do good when opportunity is presented. A bad thought uttered in 
print is not addressed to a single individual, but to the whole community. 

AVhile others, though it may be by thousands, devote their leisure hours to subjects of a 
frivolous and unreal nature, our readers, we would fain hope, Avill employ them in the more 
rational and useful task of reviewing the aspect, resources, and history, of their own native 
land, and the prosperous and powerful nation to which they belong. The materials for 
such a review we now place before them, in such number and variety as the limits assigned 
by such a publication permit ; and the public will do us the justice to allow that great 
labor has been bestowed on these pages, and that we have collected an amount of authentic 
information not easily to be surpassed in importance, variety, and interest, without greatly 
exceeding the limits to which we have been confined. It has been our constant study to 
pursue the happy medium between the dry record of facts and dates, and the diff'use and 
detached descriptions to which the abundance of pleasing topics invited us at every step. 

Although four years have not elapsed since the first edition of this work issued from the 
press, yet a thorough revision of it has been imperatively demanded from the many and 
extraordinary changes that have, in that brief period, occurred in every section of the 
country ; the most remarkable instance of which is the recent acquisition, discovery of 
the mineral wealth, and settlement of California, resulting in the addition, without its 
going through the usual territorial probation, of a new state to the Union upon the very 
western verge of the American continent. About fifty pages have been added to the 
original size of the work, comprising a full historical and descriptive account of the above- 
named new Pacific state, with appropriate illustrations, and of the territories of Minne- 
sota, New Mexico, and Utah. Many important facts have been greatly condensed, and 
many circumstances of minor consequence excluded for want of room ; but we trust that 
the reader will see that we have, throughout the volume, had in view his own gratifica- 
tion and lasting advantage; and that he will arise from its perusal with the reflection that 
it has brought him a strengthened mind and an improved heart. 



INTRODUCTION. 



One of the first reflections to which a deliberate survey of our country naturally gives 
rise, is, that we have a territory vast in extent, varied in surface and climate, embracing 
numerous and inexhaustible natural treasures, and secured, by its position, from many of 
the evils to which most other countries are exposed. Without powerful neighbors, jealous 
of our prosperity, watching our movements, and threatening to interfere in our concerns, as 
we find most of the nations of Europe, we are left free from apprehensions of such difiicul- 
ties on all our borders ; so that we may choose such objects, ways, and means, as seem 
good and right in our own eyes. 

The general good of the country demands a mutual acquaintance between the citizens 
in all parts of it. If ignorant of each other's condition, the people of the different states 
can not feel that high and just regard for each other which is essential to the existence of a 
strong spirit of brotherhood. The general diffusion of accurate knowledge, respecting all 
parts of the country, is therefore to be esteemed as an important public object, as it is one 
of the principal means to secure that great end. While all look with intelligent interest 
on the progress annually made, in every state and territory, in different branches of im- 
provement, the value of great and good pien will be appreciated, and a noble rivalry main- 
tained, from which the whole country will derive advantage. 

All history, however, is only useful so far as we are guided by a knowledge of past ex- 
perience. Rational liberty and the expansive genius of self-government have so far made 
us united and powerful. To the people who are qualified by correct habits and self-disci- 
pline to love and respect the free institutions of our land, liberty is what the sun is to the 
earth and religion to the soul — light, and life, and infinite progression. Intellectual, apart 
from moral culture, is, however, to be feared rather than encouraged ; it teaches, indeed, 
how to rear, but is powerless to perpetuate. The loss of liberty at Rome was contempo- 
raneous, or very nearly so, with the era of her greatest intellectual achievements. It is 
not alone a knowledge of their rights that the people require, but a virtuous appreciation 
of them. It was the loss of this public virtue that the elder Cato deplored, when he said 
to the Roman senate, that it was not by the force of arms, merely, that their forefathers 
had raised the republic to the greatness it enjoyed in their day, but by things of a very dif- 
ferent nature — industry and discipline at home, abstinence abroad, a disinterested spirit in 
council, unblinded by passion, and unbiased by pleasure. 

The preservation of well-regulated freedom should be the prayer of every American cit- 
izen ; but while honestly desirous of enlarging its circumference, he should take great care 
lest he admits within the circle the elements of licentiousness. In the present state of 
society, there is more to be feared from this quarter than from any effort of tyranny. The 
onward progress of intellect and education has put that down for ever. To those who 
are united for a good purpose, we would say, look to the constancy and character of the 
early founders of our republic ! While other portions of the earth are slumbering in dark- 
ness and debased in crime, let us recall to mind their counsel and example. Let us never 
forget that it is to an Education, wisely and liberally provided for our people, that Amer- 
ica owes her proud superiority. Claiming full exemption from all superstition, we firmly 
believe that no state can prosper in a long career of true glory, in the disregard of the 
claims of justice and the injunctions of the Christain religion. A floodtide of apparent 
prosperity may come, filling for the time the avenues of trade, and satiating the cravings 
of taste and curiosity ; yet, sooner or later it has its ebb, and either cloys with its abundance 
or leaves the void greater than before. History is a silent but eloquent witness of its truth, 
and from her undying lamp sheds a stream of unceasing light along our pathway. The 
fabrics of ancient greatness, built by injustice and consecrated to ambition, are now flitting 
shadows before us, starting up from behind the broken pillars and falling columns that were 
reared to perpetuate the genius by which they were Avrought. 

With such views, the following descriptions of the several states and territories have 
been written. We shall indeed feel doubly rewarded, if this brief sketch of our great 
western republic should increase the attachment of our readers to those great principles of 
equal rights, intelligence, virtue, and peace, in which were laid the foundation of our in- 
stitutions. In the foUoAving pages will be found facts displaying the good principles, sound 
judgment, and genuine patriotism, of our ancestors, and others of later date, which prove 
that they have not a few worthy successors. It is an interesting reflection, that each one 
is a member of this great commonwealth, and that no one is too weak or humble to do 

something for the public good. 

H.. S. 

Nov., 1S51. 




MAINE. 

Antiquities page 15 

Area of the State 13 

Augusta 18 

Bangor 20, 22 

First Settlement of 22 

Theological Seminary at 22 

Bath 23 

Bowdoin College, History of 18 

Breakneck Hill 19 

Castine 23 

Eastport 20 

Exports 14 

Fryeburgh 23 

Hallowell 18 

History 15 

Houlton 23 

Katahdin Mountain 13, 22 

Lovell's Expedition 23 

Lovell's Pond 23 

Lower Stillwater ViUage 23 

Lumber Business 14, 20 

Moose Island 20 

Moosehead Lake 24 

Mount Desert Island and Lighthouse 24 

Newspaper, first published in Maine 17 

North Bangor 23 

Pegipseot Falls 16 

Population 24 

Portland 17 

Burnt in the Revolution 18 

Quebec, Expedition for the Capture of 16 

Rivers 13 

Sebago Lake 24 

Settlement first attempted on the Connecticut 15 

Soil 14 

Temperance Law 24 

Topography 13 

Trade, Ports and Places of 14 

Welles 17 

York 17 

NEW HAMPSHIRE. 

Area of the State 26 

Bartlett 36 

Bellows' Falls 30 

Boundaries 25 

Canterbury 40 

Centre "Harrbor 34 

Character of the People SO 



Charlestown page 30 

Concord 28 

Connecticut River, Source of 26, 32 

Constitution, Synoj^sia of 43 

Conway 34 

Chalybeate Springs at 34 

Dartmouth College 31 

Presidents of 82 

Education, Provisions for 43 

Gilmanton Theological Seminary 43 

Hanover 31 

Haverhill 32 

Historical Society 43 

Historyw 28, 42 

Lakes 26 

Land Slide at the White Mountain, and De- 
struction of the Willey Family 34 

Latitude and Longitude 25, 26 

Manchester 30 

Medical Society 43 

Meredith 32 

Merrimac River 26 

Natural Curiosities 28 

New Hampton Academy 43 

Northern and other Railroads 43 

Old Man of the Mountain 28 

Ossipee Lake 26 

Passumpsic River 32 

Phillips' Academy at Exeter 43 

Population 26 

Portsmouth 28 

Saco River 25 

Seacoast 26 

Shaker Village 40 

Squam Lake 26, 83 

Statehouse 28 

Sunapee Lake 26 

Walpole 30 

White Mountains 32, 34 

Heights of the different Peaks 38 

Lake of the Clouds 39 

Mount Washington 38 

Nancy's Hill 36 

Notch of the 36, 88 

Prospect Mountain 36 

Wild Birds and Game 89 

VERMONT. 

Area of the State 44 

Battle of Piattsburgh 56,51 

Bennington 54 



Battle of Bennington page 54 

Burlington 52 

Courts 66 

Crown Point, Fortress of 49 

Green Mountains 44, 45 

Hero Islands 45, 46 

History 46 

Lake Champlain 45 

Lake Mempliremagog 45 

Mineral Springs 45 

MONTPELIKn. 52 

Mount Defiance 48 

Mount Independence 4*7 

Naval Action on Lake Champlain 49, 51 

Newspaper first printed 56 

Onion River 46 

Pell's Garden at Ticonderoga 48 

Rivers 46 

Rutland 51 

Statehouse at Montpelier 54 

Ticonderoga, Fortress of 47 

Topography 44 

University of Vermont 52 

Windsor 54 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

Adams, John Quincy, Biographical Sketch of 116 

Amherst 104 

College 104 

Andover 100 

Theological Seminary at 73 

Blind Institution 86 

Bloody Brook, History of 107 

Boston '^4 

Asylum and Farm School 92 

Athenaeum 92 

Bridges 93 

Common 78 

Customhouse 86 

Faneuil Hall 88 

Faneuil Hall Market 86 

Residence of John Hancock 80 

Plan for Enlargement of 80 

Schools 92 

Statehouse '^8 

Theatres 92 

Villages in the Vicinity of 94 

Waterworks 92 

Boundaries 59 

Broolcfield 100 

Bunker Hill Monument 93 

Cambridge Observatoiy 70 

Cambridge University 68 

Charlestown 93 

Clergymen of Early Times 66 

Cochituate Waterworks 92 

Conmion Schools 63 

Deerfield 107 

Distil ia;uished Laymen of Early Times 66 

E:\st Boston '^6 

Education 63 

Government 63 

Grand Refractor, Cambridge Observatory. . . 70 

Hadley 104 

History 60,106 

Indians, Early Missions among 62 



Islands page 60 

Landing of the Pilgrims 107 

Lawrence Observatory, Amherst College. ... 106 

Lawrence Scientific School, Cambridge 72 

Learned Societies 74 

Lexington 98 

Battle of 100 

Liberty Tree, History of 88 

Lowell 96 

Sketch of Operatives at 98 

Martha's Vineyard 60 

Massachusetts General Hospital 84 

Mount Auburn Cemetery 98 

Mount Holyoke 103 

Mount Holyoke Female Seminary 103 

Mount Tom 103 

Nahant 94 

Nantucket 60 

Newspapers 74 

Newton Theological Seminary 68 

Northampton 103 

Pilgrim Fathers, Historical Incident of the. .. 110 

Plymouth 96 

First Settlement of 60 

Landing of the Pilgrims at 107 

Printing, Establishment of 62 

Railroads 63, 96, 98 

Sears, Residence of the Hon. David 84 

Sears, Sketch of Colonel Isaac 66 

Shay's Rebellion, Brief Sketch of 101 

Sears' Tower, Cambridge Observatory 70 

South Hadley FaUs 101 

Springfield 101 

South Boston 76 

Statehouse 78 

Watcliusett Hill. 101 

Williams College 68 

Winthrop, John, First Governor of Massa- 
chusetts, Biographical Sketch of 110 

His History of New England Ill 

Death of , 114 

Winthrop Family Tomb, Inscriptions on. . . . 115 
Worcester 101 

CONNECTICUT. 

Agricultural Improvements in 122 

Area 119 

Boundaries 119 

Charter Oak, at Hartford 126 

Connecticut River 125 

East Haddam. 125 

Essex 125 

Farmington and Northampton Canal 124 

Fort Griswold, History of 127 

Fort Hill, History of 1 27 

Haddam 125 

Hartford 126 

Charter Oak at 126 

Deaf and Dumb Asylum 127 

Insane Hospital 127 

History 120 

Indians, History of 121 

Judges' Cave 124 

Manufactures 122 

Middletown 126 

Lead Mines in 126 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Mohfigan Indians, History of. page 128 

New Haven 122 

Graves of the Regicide Judges at 124 

New Haven and Hartford Railroad 124 

New London 127 

Norwich 130 

High Bridee across the Thames at. . . . 130 

Sachem's Field at 130 

Saybrook 124 

History of the Settlement of 125 

Sears, David, Esq., Notice of 132 

Stateprison at Wetiiersfield 126 

Topography 119 

Wethersfield 126 

Wintlirop, John, First Governor of Connec- 
ticut, Biographical Sketch of 131 

Yale College 122 

RHODE ISLAND. 

Area of the State 133 

Blackstone Canal 138 

Block Island 140 

Boundaries 133 

Brown University 136 

Coal Mines 136 

Commerce. . . ., 133 

Early History of Cotton Manufactures 138 

Eminent Men in Early Times 140 

History 134, 141 

Manufactures 134, 138 

Mount Hope 136 

Narragansets, History of 134 

Newport 141 

Pawtucket 138 

Population 134 

Population at various Periods 141 

Providence 136 

Railroads 138 

Rivers 133 

Statistics 134, 141 

Topography 133 

NEW YORK. 

Academies 160 

Albany 152 

Capitol 156 

City-Hall 154 

History of 154, 156 

Rensselaer Mansion 156 

State-Hall 154 

Female Institute and Female Seminary 154 

Auburn 172 

Stateprison at 172, 174 

Ballston Springs 147 

Brooklyn 192 

Navy-Yard at 192 

Greenwood Cemetery near 192 

Buffalo 178 

Canals 158 

Carthage 178 

Catskill Mountains 144 

Chainplain Canal 158 

Cherry Valley 164 

Massacres at during the Revolution . . 164 

Clinton 170 

Church of Our Lady, at Cold Spring 182 



Common School Fund page 161 

-Common Schools, Statistics of 161 

Cooperstown 162 

Delaware and Hudson Canal 158 

Erie Canal 158 

Erie Railroad 159 

Falls of the Genesee at Rochester 176 

Falls of Niagara 178 

Gas Springs 146 

Geneva 175 

Geneva College 175 

Genesee Flats 146 

Genesee River 146 

Greenwood Cemetery 192 

History.. 150- 152, 161, 162, 164-166, 168, 171, 

193-200 

Hudson and Erie Railroad 1 59 

Hudson River 143 

Palisades on the 144 

Hudson River Railroad 160 

Indian Barbarities 161 

Indian Barbarities in Early Times. . . . 164-166 

Lake Champlain 149 

Lake George 149 

Little Falls 166 

First Settlement at 168 

Marble Aqueduct at 168 

Natural Scenery at 166 

Remarkable Cavern at 168 

Medical Colleges , 160 

Medical College at Geneva 175 

Mountains 144 

Natural History 147 

Navy-Yard at Brooklyn 192 

New York City 186 

Area of 186 

Banks 188 

Bellevue 190 

Blind Institution 188 

Bowling Green 190 

Churches 186 

City Hall 192 

Croton Aqueduct 188 

Custom-House 190 

Deaf and Dumb Asylum 188 

Greenwood Cemetery near 192 

Harbor 186 

Merchants' Exchange 192 

Park .' 190 

Penitentiary 192 

Prisons 192 

Public Squares 190 

Schools 188 

Settlement 186 

Streets 186 

Trinity Church 192 

Union Place 190 

Wall Street 190 

Washington Square 190 

New York and Erie Railroad 159 

New York and New Haven Railroad 160 

Niagara Falls 178 

Normal Seminaries 160 

Onondaga County, French Colony settled at 171 

Oswego River 146 

Plattsburgh 184 

Battle of 185 



Penitentiaries page 172 

Poughkeepsie 180 

Railroads 159 

Receipts and Expenditures of New York 

and Erie Railroad 160 

Rensselaer Mansion at Albany 156 

Rochester 176 

Rome 168 

Salina Salt Springs 171 

Saratoga Springs 1 47 

Schenectady 161 

Schenectady Lyceum 162 

Sears, Colonel Isaac, Biography of. 196 

Adventure of the 23d August, 1775.. . 198 
Destruction of the Loval Gazette Print- 

ing-Office ' 199 

His Opposition to the Stamp Act 197 

Member of Committee of Correspond- 
ence 197 

Washington's High Opinion of Him... 199 

Last Illness and Death 200 

Seminaries of Learning and Religion 160 

Springs 146 

Statehouse at Albany 156 

Stone-Church at Dover 1 82 

Staten Island 192 

Sons of Liberty, History of 193 

Colonel Isaac Sears their Leader 193 

First Organization of dissolved 195 

Letter of Nicholas Ray to 195 

Reply to 196 

Maryland Association, Proceedings of. 195 

New York Association 194 

Object of the Association 194 

Organization of 194 

Paved the Way to Declaration of Inde- 
pendence 197 

Syracuse 17 1 

Theological Seminaries 160 

Trenton Falls 170 

Troy 184 

Utica 170 

Van-Kleek House at ^ughkee|>sie 180 

NEW JERSEY. 

Battle of Assunpink 208 

Battle of Trenton 208 

Delaware and Raritan Canal 210 

Elizabethtown 210 

History of Early Setllements 202 

Laws of the Colony in Early Times 206 

Livingston, William, first Governor of the 

State 205 

Morristown 212 

Names of Early Settlers 204 

Newark 212 

New Brunswick 210 

Rutgers' College at 210 

Newspapers, first printed in the Colony. .. 207 

Passaic, Source of 214 

Paterson 212 

History of Manufactures at 212, 214 

Penitentiary at Trenton 207 

Princeton 208 

Nassau Hall 210 

Presbyterian Seminary 210 



Settlement in West Jersey page 202 

Sla very, when introduced 206 

Soil 201 

Source of the Passaic 214 

Statehouse at Trenton 207 

Swedish Settlement 202 

Temperance, this State Early Advocate of. 206 

Thanksgiving-Day first appointed 206 

Topography 201 

Trenton 207 

Battle of 208 

Washinstton's Residence at Morristown ... 214 

Whale-Fishery, Early Attempts at 206 

PENNSYLVANIA. 

Bedford 245 

Bedford Springs 245 

Bethlehem 234 

Birmingham 245 

Boundaries 215 

Brandywine, Battle of. 246 

Canals 215, 234 

Cannonburgh 245 

Carlisle. 244 

Sulphur Springs at 245 

Chambersburg 245 

Coal, Amount imported ". 222 

Coal-Mines 218, 233, 243 

Accident in, in 1845 244 

Coal Statistics 220 

Coal-Trade, Anecdotes of. , 220 

Delaware and Hudson Canal 234 

Easton 238 

Lafayette College at 238 

Erie 245 

Franklin, Benjamin, founded Library 222 

Founded Philosophical Society 224 

Harrisburgh 244 

History of the State 216 

Interesting Facts in 247 

Inventions and Improvements by Citizens 

of this State 251 

Lehigh Coal-Mines 233 

Lehigh River, Locks and Dams upon 234 

Literary Institutions 218 

Little Schuylkill River 233 

Mauch-Chunk 234 

Meadville 245 

Merchants' Magazine, Extract from 220 

Minersville 244 

Mont2;omery County 24 1 

History of 242 

Mountains 215 

Mount Carbon 233 

Mount Carbon Railroad. 243 

Patriotism of People of this State 252 

Penn, William, Historical Sketch of. 249 

His Burial-Place 250 

His Treatment of the Indians 216 

His Treaty with thern 249 

Letitia House, his Residence 249 

Obtains a Grant of Land on the Dela- 
ware 216 

Site of his Treaty with the Indians 249 

Pittsburgh 235 

History of 236 

Manufactures 235 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Pittsburgh, United States Arsenal at. . page 236 

Water-Works 236 

Western Penitentiary 236 

Western Theological Seminary 236 

Western University 236 

Port Carbon 244 

Pottsville 233 

Printing, when first introduced 218 

Philadklphia. 222 

American Historical Society 224 

American Philosophical Society 224 

Bank of Pennsylvania 224 

Customhouse 224 

Distinguished for Neatness 222 

Exchange 224 

Fairmount Water-Works 229 

Fountain Park, Residence of Andrew 

M*Makin, Esq 229 

Girard Bank 224 

Girard College 226 

Hospital 228 

House of Refuse 228 

Independence Hall 224 

Markets 222 

Naval Hospital 228 

Penitentiary 226 

Permanent Bridge 229 

Philadelphia Library 222 

Plan of the Streets 222 

Schools 226 

United States Mint 228 

I University of Pennsylvania. 228 

Wire Suspension Bridge 229 

Railroads 243 

Reading 231 

Rivers 215 

Schuylkill Water Gap 231 

Sulphur Springs 244, 245 

Tunnel near Orwigsburgh 233 

Valley Forge, Revolutionary History of. . . 243 

W^ashington 245 

Whiskey Rebellion 218 

Wyoming, Valley of 238 

Landscape, Beauties of. 240 

Massacre at 241 

York 244 

DELAWARE. 

Are» of the State 253 

Boundaries 253 

Brandy wine Creek 255, 256 

Brandy wine Springs 255 

Cape Henlopen 255 

Chesapeake and Delaware Canal 254 

Colonial Assembly in 1704 254 

Condition and Prospects of the State 259 

Courts 254 

Delaware Breakwater 254 

Delaware City 256 

Delaware College 254, 256 

Dover 255 

Government 254 

Georgetown 256 

History 253, 254 

Kent County 257 

Latitude and Longitude 253 

Lewes 256 



Medical Society of Delaware, 1789.. page 259 

Milford 256 

Newark 255 

Newcastle County and Town 256 

Population at various Periods 253 

Population and Area of Delaware and 

Rhode Island compared 259 

Printing first introduced 254 

Rodney, Caesar, Biographical Sketch of. . . . 257 

Stamp-Act, Proceedings on 257 

Sussex County 257 

Topography 253 

Wilmington.. 255 

MARYLAND. 

Agricultural Advantages, from Soil, &c 276 

Agricultural Statistics 278 

Annapolis 273 

Capitol 273 

St. John's College 273 

Area of the State 260 

Baltimore and Ohio Railroad 267 

Baltimore 267 

Area 267 

Armistead Monument 268 

Battle Monument 268 

Battle of Baltimore 272 

Cathedral 268 

Early History of. 270 

Fort M'Henry 270 

Merchants' Exchange 267 

Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts. . . . 268 

Population 267 

Suburbs 272 

Topography 268 

Washington Monument 268 

Barren Creek Mineral Springs 274 

Boundaries 260 

Cambridge 274 

Chesapeake Bay 261 

Chestertown 274 

Coal-Mines 278 

Constitution of the Colony in 1650 264 

Copper-Mines 278 

Cumberland 276 

Easton 274 

Education 266 

Elkton 273 

EUicott's Mills 276 

Emmettsburg 274 

St. Mary's College at 274 

Flour Trade 273 

Frederick 274 

Frederick County 274 

Government 266 

Hagerstown 274 

Hancock 276 

Havre de Grace 273 

History of the Settlement of the State. 263, 266 

Indian War in 1642 264 

Iron Mines 278 

Latitude and Longitude 260 

Manufactures 266, 273, 278 

Minerals found in the State 278 

Patapsco River 261 

Patuxent River 260 

Pocomoke Bay 261 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Population page 260 

Potomac River 261 

Productions 266 

Rebellion in 1645 264 

Rivers 261 

Roman Catholic College at Georgetown . . . 266 

Snow Hill 274 

Statistics 278 

St. Mary's, Settlement of 263 

Temperature 262 

Topography 260-262 

Viaduct of the Baltimore and Washington 

Railroad 276 

Westminster 274 

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 

Area of the District 279 

Boundaries 279 

Capitol 282 j 

Capture of Washington City in 1814 292 

Chain Bridge across the Potomac 301 | 

Columbian College 292 

Congressional Burying-Ground 290 

Congressional Debates, Character of 298 j 

Cum^berland Road, Notice of. 299 | 

Georgetown 301 

Roman Catholic College and Nunnery at 301 

History 279, 289, 292, 293 \ 

Inauguration of President described 284 ; 

Latitude and Longitude 260 j 

Lighting the Capitol with Gas 292 ' 

Manufactures 266, 273, 278 

Navy-Yard 292 j 

Patent-Office 286 

Statistics of and Remarks on 286-289 , 

Potomac River 299 

President's House 284 | 

Rotunda of the Capitol, Paintings in 300 | 

Smithsonian Institute 292 

Topography 279 j 

Treas^ury Building 290 

Washington, George, Anecdotes of. . . 293-297 

Brougham's Eulogy of 297 

VIRGINIA. 

Abingdon 337 

Birds of Virginia 310 

Blue Ridge, Passage of 305 

Boundaries 302 

Capitol at Richmond 327 

Charlestown 338 

Charlottesville 334 

Climate and Scenery 312 

Education, Provisions for 331 

Elizabeth 337 

Fairfax County 338 

Farmvil'e 334 

Fincastle 337 

Fredericksburg » . • 334 

Geological Facts 311 

Hon. William C. Rives, Letter from 307 

Hampden Sidney College 336 

Hampton 332 

History 313-318, 322, 324, 329-331 

Jamestown 314 

Jefferson, Sketch of. 322 



Lynchville page 334 

Madison, Residence of 332 

Sketch of 332 

Martinsburg .'.... 338 

Monroe, Birthplace of. 336 

Sketch of. 336 

Monumental Church at Richmond 327 

Monticello, Residence of Jefferson 322 

Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek 303-305 

Negro Cabin and Funeral 348 

Norfolk 33 1 

Old Point Comfort 332 

Petersburg 337 

Pocahontas, Sketch of. 350 

Point Pleasant > 337 

Portsmouth 331 

Potomac River 308 

Randolph, John, Grave of 351 

Richmond 325 

Springs 337, 338,346 

Staunton 337 

Valley of Virginia, Description of. 306 

Washington, Sketch of 318 

Birthplace of 320 

Last Illness of 340 

Residence of 338 

Tomb of 342 

Wellsburg 34S 

Wheeling 337 

Weir's Cave 306 

William and Mary College 344 

Williamsburg 344 

Winchester 337 

Woodstock 337 

Yorktown 346 

NORTH CAROLINA. 

Area of the State 352 

Dismal Swamp 358 

Edenton 362 

Education 359 

Gold-Mines 353, 359 

Government 358 

History 353-357 

Internal Improvements 359 

Mountains 358 

Raleigh 360 

Revolutionary Incident 363 

Shocco White Sulphur Springs *362 

Statehouse 362 

Tarborough 362 

Topography 352, 358 

Turpentine and Tar, Manufacture of. 352, 360 

Wake Forest College 362 

Warrenton 362 

Wilmington 362 

SOUTH CAROLINA. 

Beaufort 378 

Camden 378 

Charleston 374 

Capitulation of in 1780 369 

Literary Institutions of. 376 

Settlement of 366 

Cheraw 378 

College of South Carolina 378 



GEOGRAPHICAL AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Columbia page 378 

Cotton, Cultivation of 372 

Falls of the Charashilactay 374 

Greenville 378 

History 365-372 

Indian Wars 366, 368 

Keowee Lake 374 

Marion and the British Officer 368 

Rice, Culture of 372 

Railroads 374 

Revolutionary History 368-372 

Sullivan's Island, near Charleston 378 

Spartansburg 378 

Topography 365 

GEORGIA. 

Area of the State 379 

Athens 388 

Augusta 390 

Boundaries 379 

Chatahoochee River 380 

Columbus .' 388 

Constitution, Synopsis of 386 

Education 386 

Falls of Coweta 382 

Falls of Tockoa 396 

Falls of the Towaliga 394 

Falls of Tullulah 382 

Georgia Female College 392 

History 384 

Remarkable Incidents in 396-403 

Lover's Leap, on the Chatahoochee 380 

Macon 390 

Madison Spring 388 

Medical College of Georgia 390 

MiLLEDGEVXLLE 388 

Oglethorpe, General, Sketch of 400 

Oglethorpe University 394 

Printing first introduced 386 

Rock Mountain 382 

Cross-Roads and Fort on 384 

Savannah 386 

Attack on, in 1779 398 

Pulaski Monument al 388 

Settlement of 396 

Tockoa Falls 382 

Topography 379 

Towaliga Falls 394 

Tullulah Falls 382 

Wesleys, John and James, Arrival of in the 

Country 401 

Whitfield, George, Arrival of in the Country 40 1 

FLORIDA. 

Agricultural Productions 405, 411 

Appalachicola 407 

Area of the State 405 

Boundaries 404 

Caves 408 

Climate 405 

Everglades 409 

Florida Keys 407 

History 409, 411 

Jacksonville 407 

Lime-Sinks 408 

Ladies' Cave 409 

Pensacola 405 



St. Augustine page 405 

Subterranean Springs 407 

Tallahassee 407 

Topography 404, 405 

White Sulphur Springs 407 

Wahully River ....". 407 

ALABAMA. 

Alabama River 412, 413, 417, 418 

Area of the State 412 

Boundaries 412 

Cahawba 418 

Coosa River 413 

Cotton Trade 418 

Demopolis. 418 

Education, Constitutional Provisions for.. . 416 

Fossil Bones, &c 420 

Gainesville 418 

History 413-415 

Hydrargos Sillimanii described 420 

Improvements projected 421 

Latitude and Longitude 412 

Magnolia, History and Description of. 424-427 

Mobile 418 

Mobile Bay 413 

Mobile River 413 

Montgomery, 418 

Population 412 

Printing first introduced 416 

Selma 420 

Silliman, Professor, Letter from 420 

State of the Country 416 

Statistics of the Cotton-Crop 427 

St. Stephen's 418 

Tombigbee River 412 

Topography 412 

Tuscaloosa 418 

University of Alabama 418 

MISSISSIPPI. 

Agricultural Productions 428, 429 

Antiquities 430, 434 

Area of the State 428 

Boundaries 428 

Centennary College 432 

Columbus 433 

Government 429 

Grand Gulf 433 

Holly Springs 433 

Jackson 432 

Latitude and Longitude 428 

Mississippi Railroad 43 1 

Mississippi River, Remarkable Features of 431 

Natchez 430 

Population 430 

Statistics 430 

Vicksburg 433 

Washington 433 

Wooding Station, Notice of 434 

LOUISIANA. 

Alexandria 446 

Area of the State 436 

Baton Rouge 445 

Boundaries 436 

Canebrakes, Description of 448 

Cotton-Moth, Ravages of 447 



Cotton-Trade page 439, 448 

Country Life in Louisiana 446 

Covington 446 

Cypress, Nature of 448 

Donaldsonville 446 

Galveztown 446 

Geology 438 

Madisonville 446 

New Orleans 442, 445 

Opelousas 446 

Parishes and Counties 440 

Springfield 446 

Statistics 439 

Sugar-Making, Description of 440-442 

Topography 436, 437, 439, 440 

View on the Mississippi 447 

TEXAS. 

Agricultural Productions 45 1 

Area of the State 449 

Austin 456 

Bastrop 458 

Boundaries 449 

Climate 451 

Corpus Christi 458 

Galveston 454 

Government 458 

History 449, 452 

Houston 456 

Latitude and Longitude 449 

Matagorda 458 

Nacogdoches 458 

Population 452 

Rivers 450 

San Augustin 458 [ 

San Felipe de Austin 458 

San Antonio de Bexar 458 

Topography 450 

Washington 458 

Wild Horses, Manner of Capturing 451 

ARKANSAS. 

Arkansas Post 465 

Boundaries 459 

Chalybeate Springs 465 

Constitution, Synopsis of 464 

Helena 465 

Hot Springs 465 

Indians, Sketches of 465 

LtTTLE Rock 464 

Population 465 

Prairie, Description of 463 

Rivers 459 

Rocky Bluffs on the Mississippi 462 

Scenery along the Mississippi 460 

Statistics 465 

Sulphur Springs 465 

Topography 459 

TENNESSEE. 

Area of the State 467 

Boundaries 467 

Capitol at Nashville 473 

Cascades 472 

Caverns 470 

Clarksville 475 

Climate and Productions 475 



Columbus PAGE 475 

Curiosities 472 

East Tennessee University 473 

Fossil Remains 469 

Franklin.. 475 

Geological Formations 469 

History 468, 47 1 

Iron-Trade 470, 471 

Jonesborough 473 

Kingston 475 

Knoxville 473 

Latitude and Longitude 467 

Maysville 473 

Memphis 473 

Minerals 468 

Murfreesborough 475 

Nashville 473 

Population 470 

Statistics 470, 471 

Topography 467, 468 

KENTUCKY. 

Area of the State 476 

Barrens 477 

Boundaries 476 

Capitol at Frankfort 484 

Educational Statistics 485 

Frankfort 484 

Government 478 

History 477 

Historical Society 484 

Indian Curiosities 481 

Kentucky River 477 

Latitude and Longitude 476 

Lexington 482 

Louisville 482 

Mammoth Cave, Description of 478 

Medical Institute at Louisville 484 

Ohio Canal 482 

Population 478 

Prison Statistics 485 

Productions 478 

Stateprison 484 

Synopsis of the Constitution 478 

Topography 476, 477 

Transylvania University 482 

OHIO. 

Akron 505 

Antiquities 504 

Area of the State 486 

Ashtabula 505 

Batavia 511 

Boundaries 486 

Bucvrus 510 

Chil'licothe 508 

Cincinnati 496 

History of 498 

Literary Institutions of 500, 502 

Manufactures of 500 

Cleveland 505 

Clinton County 511 

Columbus 509 

Coshocton 510 

Cuyahoga Falls 505 

Dayton 511 

Elyria 506 



GEOGRAPHICAL, AND ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



Fairport page 508 

Franklia County 510 

Gallipolis 508 

Gambier 502 

Granville 510 

Hamilton 512 

History 488-494 

Kenyon College at Gambier 503 

Lancaster 509 

Lane Seminary 502 

Latitude and Longitude 486 

Mansfield 505 

Marietta 503 

Massillon 510 

Maumee City 512 

Newark 510 

Oberlin 506 

Painesville 508 

Pickaway County 509 

Population at different Periods 487 

of 1790 and 1840 compared 494 

Pork-Trade of the West 513 

Portsmouth 508 

Public Works of the State 488 

Roscoe 510 

Sandusky City 506 

Sidney 512 

Springfield 512 

Statistics 496, 513 

Steubenville 506 

Toledo 505 

Urbana 511 

Van Buren 512 

Williamsburg 511 

Willoughby 508 

Wilmington 511 

Xenia 512 

Zanesville 508 

MICHIGAN. 

Adrian 523 

Agricultural Advantages of the State 515 

Ann Arbor 523 

Boundaries 514 

Copper-Mines 524 

Detroit 518 

Emigrants, Advantages to 530 

Exports of Wool. 527 

Falls of St. Mary 523 

Fisheries 522, 523 

History 515 

Illinois and Michigan Canal 526 

Internal Improvements 517 

Jackson 523 

Joliet, Water-Power at 527 

Kalamazoo 520 

Lake St. Clair 518 

Lansing 520, 525 

Mackinac 520 

Business of 522 

Marshall 520 

Mining Operations, History of 524 

Monroe 520 

Population 515 

Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior 528 

Account of Visit to 529, 530 

Railroads 517 



Sheep-Growing page 515, 527 

Soil 515 

Statistics 522, 527. 528 

St. Joseph's ' 520 

Topography , 514, 516 

Wool-Growing, History of 527 

Ypsilanti 523 

INDIANA. 

Academies and Common Schools 533 

Area of the State 532 

Bear-Hunt 540 

Bloomington 543 

Boundaries 532 

Climate 533 

Coal and Copper-Mines 538 

Crawfordsville 536 

Cut-off River 543 

Evansville 542 

History 540, 543 

Indianapolis 533 

Capitol at 534 

Lafayette 536 

Latitude and Longitude 532 

Lawrencebnrg 542 

Literary Institutions 533 

Madison 542 

Michigan City 536 

New Albany 542 

New Harmony 534, 543 

Peculiar Characteristics of Western Mind.. 536 

Pigeon Springs 520 

Population . ." . . 532 

Saltsprines 538 

South Bend 536 

Terre Haute 536 

Topography 532 

Vincennes 534 

Western River Town 538 

ILLINOIS. 

Alton 555 

Area of the State 544 

Belleville 556 

Cave-in Rock, near Shawneetown 555 

Chicago 551 

History of 554 

Emigration 562 

Galena 549, 556 

Growth of the West 564 

Illinois College 555 

Jacksonville 549, 555 

Kaskaskia 555 

Latitude and Longitude 544 

Lead-Mines 549 

Mount Joliet 560 

Population 544 

Peoria 556 

River Navigation of the West 559 

Rock Fort,. 556 

Rock Island City 556 

Shawneetown 555 

Springfield 555 

St. Joseph 552 

Swedish Settlement, Notice of 550 

Topography 545 

Vandalia 556 



MISSOURI. 

Area and Boundaries page 566 

Bethel 575 

Boonville 576 

Buffaloes and Elks 577 

Canton 575 

Cape Girardeau 576 

Columbia 576 

Edina 575 

Elkhorn Pyramid 581 

Falls of the Missouri 568 

Fulton 576 

Glasgow 576 

Hannibal 576 

Hunting the Buffalo 579 

Independence 576 

Jefferson City 571 

Latitude and Longitude 566 

Lexington 576 

Liberty 576 

Meuipliis 575 

Mines 567 

Missouri River 566 

New Madrid 576 

Palmyra 575 

Population 567 

Potosi 576 

Springfield 576 

St. Charles 575 

St. Genevieve 570 

St. Joseph 576 

St. Lot is 571 

History of 671 

Population of at various Periods 574 

TuUy 575 

IOWA. 

Antiquities 543 

Area and Boundaries 582 

Burlington 683 

Dubuque 58.3 

Geological Features of the State 586 

History 582 

Iowa City 583 

Jamesville 583 

Latitude and Longitude 582 

Log-Cabin and Sawmill 584 

Population 582 

Prairie, description of 584 

WISCONSIN. 

Antiquities 592,594 

Area and Boundaries 587 

Azatlan 592 

Clearing and Log-Cabin 594 

Fond du Lac 592 

Geographical Description 587-589 

Isle Royale 598 

Lakes, Extent of Great American 600 

Lake St. Croix 59S 

Latitude and Longitude 587 

Madison 590 

Maiden's Rock, History of 596 

Milwaukie 69n 

Mines of Lake Superior 598 



Population page 587 

Prairie on Fire, Description of 596 

Racine 590 

Rivers 587 

Sheboygan 592 

Southport 592 

Swamps 588 

CALIFORNIA. 

Area and Boundaries 606 

Benicia 621 

Climate 608 

Constitution, Synopsis of 605 

Geographical Description 606 

History 601 

Indians 610 

Mineral Wealth 622 

Monterey, City of 620 

Population 610 

Postofiices 622 

Rivers 608 

Sacramento City 617 

San Diego 621 

San Francisco, Bay of 608 

San Francisco, City of 611 

San Jose, City of 618 

Seal of the State, Explanation of 605 

Stockton, City of 620 

Vallejo 621 

TERRITORY OF OREGON. 

Area and Boundaries 627 

Climate 627 

Geographical Description 627 

History 630 

Mnunt-iins 627, 628 

Oregon City, Territorial Capital 632 

Rivers 629, 630 

Towns and Settlements 632-634 

TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 

Area and Boundaries 636 

Gi'ographical Description 636 

History 635 

St. Paul's, the Territorial Capital 638 

Towns and Settlements 638, 639 

Western Territory 639 

TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 

Area and Boundaries 640 

Geographical Description 641 

History 640 

Manners and Customs 644 

Mineral Wealth 642 

Population 643 

Santa Fe, Territorial Capital 643 

Towns and Settlements 641-643 

TERRITORY OF UTAR 
Area and Boundaries 646 

Geographical Description 646, 647 

Great Salt Lake City, Capital 647 

History 646 

Population 648 

Settlements 647 




LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. 



Seai, of Maine, and Desert-Rock LighthouBe.. page 13 

Bowdoin College, Brunswick 19 

Eastport 21 

Seal of New Hampshire, and Old Man of the Mountain 25 

Squam Lake 27 

Statehouae, at Concord 29 

Centre Harbor and Lake Winnipisiogee 35 

Notch-house, White Mountains 37 

Shaker Settlement at Canterbury 41 

Seal of Vermont, and View of Burlington 44 

Statehouse, at Montpelier 53 

Seal of Massachusetts, and Landing of the Pilgrims.. . 59 

City of Boston 58 

Boston in 1776, taken from the Road to Dorchester... 61 

Residence of John Hancock, Boston 67 

Cambridge University 69 

Cambridge Observatory, with Sears' Tower 71 

Grand Refractor, Cambridge Observatory 72 

Lawrence Scientific School, at Cambridge 73 

Boston and Bunker Hill from the East 75 

Old City-Hall, and State Street, Boston 77 

Boston Common, with the Statehouse in the Distance . 79 

The Statehouse, at Boston 81 

Sears' Plan for Improvement of Boston 83 

Residence of the Hon. David Sears, Boston Common.. 85 

Customhouse, Boston 87 

Liberty-Tree 88 

Faneuil Hall 89 

Bunker-Hill Monurhent, Charlestown 95 

Plymouth 97 

Cemetery at Mount Auburn 99 

Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke 102 

Amherst College, with new Cabinet and Observatory. 105 
Portrait of John Winthrop, first Governor of Mass... 110 

Death-bed of Winthrop 114 

Residence of the Adams Family, Quincy 117 

Yale College, State Seal, &c 119 

New Haven College-Green 128 

Bridge at Norwich 129 

Piirtrait of John Winthrop, first Governor of Con- 
necticut 131 

Seal of Rhode Island 133 

Landing of Roger Williams 133 



Newport pxok 135 

Brown University 137 

Seal of New York 143 

Tomb of Kosciusko, West Point 142 

Genesee Falls, Rochester 143 

The Palisades, Hudson River 145 

View of Albany from Greenbush 151 

Albany Female Seminary 153 

St. Paul's Church, Albany 155 

State Street, Albany 157 

Schenectady Lyceum 163 

Village of Little Falls 167 

Utica 169 

Auburn 172 

Geneva Medical College 175 

Falls of Niagara, viewed from Table Rock 177 

Falls of Niagara, viewed from the Clifton House... 179 

The Van-Kleek House, Poughkeepsie 180 

(ioUegiate School, Poughkeepsie 181 

Church of Our Lady, at Cold Spring 1 82 

Dover Stone Church 183 

St. Paul's Church, Troy 184 

View of the City of New York 187 

Merchants' E.xchange, Wall Street, New York City. 189 
The Old Billop House, at Bentley, West End of 

Staten Island 191 

Seal of New Jersey 201 

Delaware Water-Gap 201 

Theological Seminary, Princeton 209 

Washington's Headquarters, Morristown 211 

Source of the Passaic 213 

Seal of Pennsylvania 215 

Head Waters of the Juniata, and the Allegany 

Mountains 915 

Treaty of William Penn with the Indians 217 

City of Philadelphia 219 

Philadelphia Exchange 221 

Customhouse (formerly United States Bank), Phila- 
delphia 223 

Old Statehouse, or Independence Hall, Philadelphia. 225 

Eastern State Penitentiary, near Fairmount 226 

New Suspension-Bridge at Fairmount 230 

Fountain Park, Residence of Andrew M'Makin, Esq. 232 

View of Pittsburg 236 

The Wyoming Valley, from Prospect Rock 239 



12 



LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. 



Seal of Delaware page 253 

Chesapeake and Delaware Canal 253 

Seal of Maryland 260 

Battle Monument 260 

City of Baltimore 269 

Washington Monument, Baltimore 271 

Viaduct over the Patuxent, on the Baltimore and 
Washington Railroad 275 

City of Washington 280 

Capitol, Washington 283 

President's House 285 

State Department 291 

Smithsonian Institution 292 

Seal of Virginia 302 

Shannondale Springs 302 

Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek 304 

Ruins of Jamestown 315 

Portrait of Washington 319 

Birthplace of Washington 321 

Monticello, Residence of Jefferson 323 

Richmond 326 

Statehouse, at Richmond 328 

Monumental Church, Richmond 329 

Residence of Madison 333 

Birthplace of Monroe 335 

Harper's Ferry, from the Potomac Side 339 

Mount Vernon, Residence of Washington 341 

Death-bed of Washington 343 

Tomb of Washington, Mount Vernon 345 

Yorktown 347 

Negro Cabin in Virginia 349 

Seal of North Carolina 352 

Pine Forest in North Carolina 352 

The Old Statehouse, at Raleigh 361 

Seal of South Carolina 365 

Lake Scene in South Carolina 365 

City of Charleston 367 

Keowee Lake 373 

Falls of the Charashilactay 375 

Charleston Hotel 376 

View in Meeting Street, Charleston 377 

Seal of Georgia 379 

The Lover's Leap 379 

TuUulah Falls 381 

Rock Mountain 383 

Pulaski Monument, and Christ Church, Savannah . . . 385 

Statehouse, at Milledgeville 387 

City of Columbus 389 

Entrance to Madison Springs 390 

Medical College of Georgia 391 

Oclethorpe University 393 

Falls of Towaliga 395 

Tockoa Falls 397 

Seal of Florida 404 

The Everglades 404 

Public Square at St. Augustine 406 

Seal of Alabama 4ll 

Tombigbee River 412 

City and Harbor of Mobile 419 

Seal of Mississippi 428 

A Wooding Station on the Mississippi River 428 

Seal of Louisiana 436 

Canebrakes 436 

City of New Orleans 445 

Mississippi River, at Bend 100 447 

Seal of Texas 449 

The Texan Hunter's Home 449 

Catching Wild Horses on a Prairie 453 

Galveston 455 

Houston 457 



Seal of Arkansas page 459 

Ozark Mountains 459 

Rocky Bluflfs on the Mississippi 462 

Seal of Tennessee 467 

Cumberland Mountains 467 

City of NashvUle .• 474 

Seal of Kentucky 476 

Bank Lick 476 

Entrance to the Mammoth Cave 479 

City of Louisville 483 

Seal of Ohio 486 

Blennerhasset's Island 486 

Scene in the Early Settlement of Ohio 491 

View of Cincinnati in 1800 493 

View of Cincinnati in 1850 495 

The Landing-Place at Cincinnati 497 

New Catholic Cathedral, Cincinnati 499 

Lane Seminary, Walnut Hills, near Cincinnati 501 

Kenyon College, Gambier, Ohio 502 

Antiquities — Silver Sword-Ornament 503 

Front and Back View of a Boss of the Sword-Beit 504 

A Copper Plumb, or Pendant 504 

View of SteubenviUe 507 

Seal of Michigan 514 

Pictured Rocks on Lake Superior 514 

City of Detroit 519 

Mackinac Blutt's 521 

Seal of Indiana 532 

Cut-oS River, near New Harmony 532 

Statehouse, at Indianapolis 535 

View on the Wabash River 539 

Bear-Hunting — Winter Scene 541 

Seal of Illinois 544 

Cave-in Rock, near Shawneetown 544 

The Pioneer of the Western Forest 547 

City of Chicago : 553 

Rock Fort, on the Illinois River 557 

Mount Joliet 561 

Emigration to the West 563 

Encampment for the Night 565 

Seal of Missouri 566 

Elk-horn Pyramid, on the Upper Missouri 666 

City of St. Louis 573 

Herd of Buffaloes and Elks 578 

Buffalo-Hunting 580 

Seal of Iowa 582 

Emigration 582 

Log-Cabins and Sawmill at the West 585 

Seal of Wisconsin 587 

Prairie on Fire 587 

View of the City of Milwaukie 591 

View of Southport, on Lake Michigan 593 

A Clearing, and Log-Hut 595 

Maiden's Rock, on the Missouri River 597 

Seal of California 601 

Scene in the Valley of the Sacramento 601 

California Emigrants at Panama converting Canoes in- 
to Sailing- Vessels, in which to reach California.. 604 

San Francisco, from the Foot of Telegraph Hill 613 

Iron House at San Francisco 615 

View of Sacramento City, from the River 619 

Scene in the Mines — Washing out the Gold 623 

Rounded Water-worn Pebble of Gold, with Quartz.. 624 

Fohated Gold intermingled with Quartz 625 

Lump of Gold, as it came from the Mines 625 

Specimens of Gold-Dust and Gold in Crystals 625 

View of Astoria, on the Columbia River 63 1 

View of Oregon City, at the Fails of the Willamette.. 633 

Seal of the United States 648 







Although Maine was settled by 
Europeans several years before any 
other part of New Ens^land, it was 
not admitted into the Union as a state 
until 1820. Previously to that peri- 
od it was a mere territory of Massa- 
chusetts, and long bore the title of 
the " district of Maine." In point 
of extent, however, and rapidity of 
growth, it ranks at the head of the 
eastern states ; embracing, between 
its distant limits of Lower Canada 
on the north. New Brunswick on the 
east, the Atlantic on the south, and 
New Hampshire on the west, an area 
of 33,223 square miles. 
A considerable part of the northwestern division of the state is mountainous, 
and there are rough tracts and peaks of considerable elevation in some other 
parts ; but in the north the surface is generally even, although the height is con- 
siderable, dividing the waters of the St. Lawrence from those emptying into the 
ocean. The Allegany range, which first appears in Alabama, and traverses all 
the intermediate Atlantic states, with mountains or hills of different breadth and 
elevation, is considered as terminating in that cluster of wild and lofty heights 
which occupy the northwestern counties of Maine ; beyond which no ridge is to 
be found, except that of the greatly rising land in the north just mentioned. 

The highest land east of the Mississippi, excepting only Mount Washineton, 
and a few of its neighboring peaks, in the heart of the New Hampshire AVhite 
hills, is Katahdin mountain, on the Penobscot river, near the centre of this state. 
It is 5,335 feet high. The other most elevated points are Speckled, Whiteface, 
Bald,' and Saddleback mountains, north of Androscoggin river, and not far from 
the western boundary of the state. 

The rivers of IMaine present some striking peculiarities. The surface of the 
state is divided into unequal parts by the courses of the Penobscot, Kennebec, 



14 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



and Androscoggin, which run nearly 
south, in directions nearly parallel and 
equidistant ; while, as they approach the 
sea, a number of smaller streams flow 
in short courses between them, subdivi- 
ding the coast into many capes and pe- 
ninsulas, whose number is still further 
increased by bays and coves which set 
up into the land every few miles, and 
fringe the southern outline of the state 
along its whole extent of 221 miles, from 
Kittery point to Quoddy head. The 
northern part of the map presents count- 
less small streams pouring into the main 
trunks of the rivers above-mentioned, of 
which they are the tributaries ; while 
still above them, flowing with a long 
sweep, from north to east and southeast, 
the St. John's, the principal stream of 
the state, encircles the whole, marking 
out the present northern boundary, 
till it crosses the eastern boundary, and 
flows on through the neighboring Brit- 
ish province of New Brunswick. 

The valley of the Saco embraces 650 
square miles, that of the Androscoggin 
3,300, the Kennebec 5,280, and the 
Penobscot 8,200. The smaller streams 
in the south part of the state, before al- 
luded to, are the Piscataqua, Sheepscot, 
Damariscotta, Muscongus, Union, Nar- 
ragaugus, and Machias. The region 
between the Penobscot and the Kenne- 
bec, a distance of fifty miles, is remark- 
ably well supplied with streams and in- 
lets, so that almost every town has a 
navigable channel of its oAvn. 

The soil along the Atlantic border, 
extending from ten to twenty miles back 
from the coast, is generally poor, al- 
though varying from sand to gravel, 
clay and loam, producing small crops of 
grass, Indian corn, rye, &c. The next 
belt of land, from fifty to one hundred 
miles wide, is of better quality, and 
yields, in addition to these aiticles, 
wheat, oats, flax, and hemp, as well as 
most of the northern plants. The tract 
between the Kennebec and Penobscot 
is remarkably favorable to grazing, and, 
when well cultivated, yields foi'ty bush- 
els of corn, and from twenty to forty 
bushels of wheat, to the acre. Agricul- 
ture was greatly neglected for many 
years, the attention of the inhabitants 



being almost entirely engrossed, on the 
one hand, by the cutting of timber in 
the interior, its transportation to the 
mills at the falls of the rivers, the saw- 
ing and exportation of it to the different 
ports of the Union and the West Indies ; 
and, on the other hand, by the fisheries 
along the coast. The increase of pop- 
ulation, however, with the rapid disap- 
pearance of the forests in the immediate 
vicinity of streams, together with the 
diffusion of just views of the importance 
and methods of agriculture, have pro- 
duced great and extensive improve- 
ments ; and the benefits resulting to 
the state are already incalculably great. 
Manufactures have also been introduced 
to a considerable extent, while the min- 
eral resources have begun to be devel- 
oped, as iron, slate, marble, and espe- 
cially limestone, which is celebrated for 
its excellent quality. Literary institu- 
tions have been multiplied and well sup- 
ported, and the common-school system 
has been placed on a liberal foundation. 
Trade is much favored by the nature 
of the coast and the character of some 
of the principal rivers ; and already great 
improvements have been made by the 
construction of I'oads, railroads, and ca 
nals, and the establishment of steamboat 
lines. The principal ports and places of 
trade are Portland, Hallowell, Bangoj", 
Calais, Brunswick, and Belfast ; and 
Saco, Machias, and Eastport, have also 
excellent harbors. The exports are 
chiefly timber, lumber, dried fish, salt 
pork and beef, lime, and pot and pearl 
ashes. 

The business of cutting, transporting, 
and manufiicturing timber, includes ma- 
ny laborious operations, and occupies a 
considerable part of the population. 
Trees are felled in the winter, drawn 
by oxen to the nearest water-course, and 
left upon the ice, marked with the axe 
in such a manner that they may be rec- 
ognised by the agents of the owner, sta- 
tioned on the lower parts of the main 
river. In the spring, at the melting of 
the deep snows, the floods carry down 
the timber with the broken ice ; and, 
after a long voyage, every log is drifted 
to the falls of the great stream on v/huse 
i branches it has jjrown. Here numerous 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



15 



mills are kept in active operation by the 
powerful currents, which bring down 
abundant materials to employ them. 
Above these are long rafts, or floating 
bridges, called buoys, formed of logs, 
connected strongly together, and stretch- 
ed from bank to bank, to stop the float- 
ing timber. Men are continually em- 
ployed with boats, in the spring, in 
brinfinar it to the shore as it comes 
down ; and great care is taken to dis- 
pose of each stick according to the di- 
rection of the owner, whose name is 
known from the mark. The millers, 
with their circular saws and other ma- 
chines, saw whole rafts of logs into 
millions of planks, boards, shingles, 
staves, headings, &c. ; and vessels, lying 
at the foot of the falls, readily receive 
their cargoes of lumber from the doors 
of the mills, slid down upon their decks 
and into their holds ; and, hoisting sail, 
steer away for many a distant harbor. 

History. — The Jesuits in Lower Can- 
ada early began their intercourse with 
the Indian tribes in Maine, and soon 
established a mission on the Penobscot, 
which, according to custom, became a 
centre of intrigue and of military oper- 
ations against the New England settle- 
ments. It was at length cut off by an 
expedition from Massachusetts, by which, 
in a sudden attack, the Jesuit chief, 
Ralle, was killed. The remnants of 
the Penobscot tribe are, to this day, 
chiefly Roman catholics. Previously to 
the landing in Massachusetts bay, a col- 
ony was commenced on the coast of 
Maine, by Gorges and Mason, under a 
grant from the council of Plymouth, 
England, to whom the territory had been 
granted by King James I., in 1606. 
The first settlements made, at Damaris- 
cotta and a few other points on the coast, 
were soon abandoned ; and few traces 
are to be found of any of them. Few 
motives were offered to colonists, to 
counterbalance the inhospitable nature 
of the country, the severity of the cli- 
mate, and the exposure to interference 
from the Indians and French. 

Two or three miles from the road 
that leads between Linniken's bay and 
Damariscotta river, where was formerly 
an Indian burying-place, the remains 



of cellar-walls and chimneys are found, 
as also broken kettles, wedges, &c. At 
the head of the bay are the hulks of two 
or three large vessels sunk in the water; 
and on the shore, the ruins of an old 
gristmill, where the present one stands. 
On the islands opposite the town, are 
other ruins, the history of which is un- 
known, as is also that of those already 
mentioned. The following interesting 
facts afford a guide to their origin. 

In the year 1605, Captain Weymouth, 
of Plymouth, in England, returned from 
an unsuccessful voyage made for the dis- 
covery of a northwest passage, bringing 
with him five American savages, whom 
he had taken on board in the Penobscot 
river. Sir Fernando Gorges felt so much 
interest in these men from a new world, 
that, to use his own language, he "seized 
upon" them, and had three of them in 
his own family for three years ; and 
" this accident must be acknowledged as 
the means, under God, of putting on foot 
and giving life to all our plantations." 
He obtained much information from the 
Indians, and became, from that time, 
deeply interested in schemes for the set- 
tlement of the New World, and an active 
member of the Plymouth company. 

The first settlement was attempted by 
Englishmen, on the Kennebec, at the 
early date of 1609, the same year as that 
of Jamestown. King James having, by 
request, granted a patent, in 1606, divi- 
ding the coast into North and South Vir- 
ginia, this part of Maine was embraced 
in tlie former, w^iich extended from the 
38th to the 45th degree of north latitude. 
While Gosnold, with Captain Smith for 
his agent, commenced planting a colony 
at Jamestown, Captains George Pojiham 
and Raleigh Gilbert led another to the 
mouth of the Kennebec. They landed 
near the island of Monheagan, a few 
leagues east of that river, and soon after 
entered the stream, and stopped at an 
island near its eastern shore, now form- 
ing a part of Georgetown. As Chief- 
Justice Popham had procured an accu- 
rate survey of the river the year before, 
it is probable that this place was chosen 
in England, before the sailing of the ex- 
pedition. 

But the history of this colony is short 



16 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



and melancholy. As it did not arrive 
until August, there was not sufficient 
time to complete the necessary prepara- 
tions for the winter, which set in early 
and with rigor. A fort was erected, but 
many arrangements, important to the 
comfort of the people, could not be 
made ; and, as the ships returned in 
December, about half of the number 
embarked in them, apprehending severe 
sufferings from the cold and the want of 
food. Part of the buildings and provis- 
ions were soon. after destroyed by fire; 
and Captain Popham died before spring. 
The first ships brought the news of the de- 
cease of the chief-justice ; and the pain- 
ful intelligence of the death of a brother 
rendered it necessary for Captain Gilbert 
to return to England. The remaining 
colonists, becoming disheartened, aban- 
doned their enterprise ; and, the place 
being deserted, the Plymouth company 
did not repeat the experiment. 

Gorges, one of the most intelligent 
and devoted friends of America among 
the members of the Plymouth colony, 
endeavored in vain to induce them to 
send out a second colony. Unwilling, 
however, to see the object wholly aban- 
doned, he engaged in private enterjirises 
for trading with the natives and fishing ; 
and, in 1616, sent out a party, under the 
command of Richard Vines, to explore 
this part of the coast. They peneti'ated 
into the country, and were kindly treat- 
ed ; but they found the people suffering 
from the smallpox, and the hostile at- 
tacks of the Tarrantines, a nation east 
of the Penobscot. They met with the 
Indians who had been in England, and 
received special marks of favor from 
them. On the approach of winter, which 
they had agreed to spend in the country, 
they chose a spot on the western side of 
Saco river, at its mouth. Some of them 
took up a hundred acres of land on lease 
from Vines, one of which was for a thou- 
sand years, at the annual rent of two 
shillings and one capon, after the pay- 
ment of a previous compensation. The 
lease, partly in Latin^ was executed in 
1638. A considerable trade was carried 
on here for some years, the colonists 
employing themselves both in agncul- 
ture and in fishing, besides ti'ading con- 



siderably with the savages for beaver- 
skins, &c. 

In the southwestern parts of the state 
are several scenes of the later and more 
permanent settlements. 

Pcgipscot Falls. — Near Lewistown, 
on the Androscoggin river, is a remark- 
able cataract, where the current breaks 
through a range of mountains, and pours 
over a broken ledge of rocks. The 
scene is wild and striking, and derives 
an additional interest from its connexion 
with the history of a tribe of Indians 
long since extinct. According to a tra- 
dition current in the neighborhood, the 
upper parts of this stream were formerly 
the residence of the Rockmego Indians, 
who inhabited a fine and fertile plain 
through which the i-iver winds. The 
situation was remote, and they had never 
engaged in any hostilities with the whites, 
but devoted themselves to hunting and 
fishing. The ground still contains many 
remains of their weapons, utensils, &c. 
They were, however, at length persua- 
ded to engage in a hostile incursion 
against Brunswick, at that time an ex- 
posed frontier settlement; and the whole 
tribe embarked in their canoes to ac- 
complish the enterprise. The stream 
flows gently on for a great distance, un- 
til it approaches very near to the falls ; 
and this was the spot appointed for the 
night encampment. Night set in before 
their arrival ; and they sent two men 
forward to make fires upon the banks a 
little above the cataract. For some un- 
known reason, the fires were kindled 
below the falls ; and the Indians, being 
thus deceived concerning their situation, 
did not bring up their canoes to the 
shore in season, and were carried over 
the rocks, and the tribe all destroyed to- 
gether. 

It was along the valley of the Kenne- 
bec that the expedition, formed in the 
winter of 1775-'6, for the capture of 
Quebec, proceeded. The hardships they 
endured were very severe, as the coun- 
try at that time was wholly destitute of 
inhabitants through almost the whole 
route, after leaving the seacoast, until 
approaching the valley of the St. Law- 
rence. The plan had been formed and 
adopted while the American army was 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



17 



engaged in the siege of Boston, and 
Greneral Montgomery was placed at the 
head of it. Benedict Arnold was among 
the most active of the officers. After 
numerous delays, caused by the difficul- 
ties of navigation and transportation, 
cold and hunger, they arrived at the 
Frei)ch settlements ; but being unable 
to proceed with desirable rapidity, or to 
cross the St. Lawrence immediately after 
reaching its shore, the inhabitants had 
time to make preparations ; and, instead 
of taking the city by surprise, and at 
once finding comfortable quarters, they 
were able only to encamp on the heights 
of Abraham, after scaling the precipitous 
shore at Wolfe's cove, with an army be- 
tween them and the walls. Tins un- 
fortunate expedition failed, after losing 
their commander, who was killed in an 
unsuccessful attempt to gain the lower 
town by a night attack, and Arnold, with 
a large division of the forces, who were 
made prisoners in an assault on the up- 
per town. 

The first newspaper in Maine was 
printed on January 1, 1785. It was 
called the " Falmouth Gazette and 
Weekly Advertiser," and published at 
Falmouth (now Portland), by Benjamin 
Titcomb and Thomas B. Wait, on a demy 
sheet. Its name was changed to the 
" Cumberland Gazette," in 17S6. The 
second was commenced in the same 
town, in 1790, called the " Maine Ga- 
zette," by Benjamin Titcomb, and con- 
tinued till 1796; at which time there 
were but three newspapers in Maine, 
one of them at Hallowell, and one at 
Augusta. In 1810, there were eight 
newspapers, and, in 1850, fifty-six. 

The first daily paper was begun at 
Portland, October 13, 1829, and called 
the " Daily Courier ;" and the second, 
the " Daily Evening Advertiser," in 
1831. 

York. — There are some pleasant fields 
about this little place, but its size is in- 
significant, when compared with the an- 
ticipations formed of its destiny at the 
time of its first settlement ; for the 
ground was laid out for streets, and the 
divisions of the land still retain much of 
t!ie regular f()rm tjiven it by the first sur- 
veyors. Population, about 3,500. 



TJte Nubble is a rocky point, four and 
a half miles from York, and Cape Ned- 
dock lies beyond. While travelling 
along this dreary country, the road pass- 
es the site of an old fort or blockhouse, 
built before Philip's war. The Aga- 
raenticus hills fi)rm a range some dis- 
tance west. 

Lower Welles. — There is a little 
harbor here, defended l>y a sandbar, with 
a narrow entrance under a rock ; but it 
is almost dry at low water, 

Welles. — The sea often breaks beau- 
tifully on the beach, in front of the tav- 
ern. Porpoise point is just distinguish- 
able in the northeast, and the view of 
the sea is fine and refi-eshing. 

Three miles beyond is Breakneck hill, 
over which falls a small stream, from the 
height of thirty feet, about forty yards 
from the path. The old fort was half a 
mile beyond, or a quarter of a mile from 
the church. This little fortress was once 
attacked by five hundred Indians, who 
at first supposed, as was the fact, that 
the men were absent from home. The 
place was, however, very bravely and 
successfully defended by five women, 
dressed in their husband's clothes. 

Portland. — The situation of this 
place is remarkably fine, occupying the 
ridge and side of a high point of land, 
with a handsome though shallow bay on 
one side, and the harbor on the othei*. 
The anchorage is protected on every 
side by land, the water is deep, and the 
communication with the sea direct and 
convenient. Congress street runs along 
the ridge of the hill, and contains a 
number of very elegant private houses. 
There is also the town-hall, with the 
market below, and a beautiful church, 
with granite columns. The steps are 
fine blocks of granite, six by nine feet, 
brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 
twenty-two miles distant, 

F]"om the observatory, south and south- 
west, are seen several distant eminences : 
among others, the Agamenticus hills ; 
northwest are seen, in clear weather, the 
hjfty ridges and peaks of the White hills 
in New Hnmp.shire, which are discov- 
ered at sea often before the nearer land 
appears in sight. 

Cape Elizabeth is the highland on the 



18 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



south side of the harbor; and the islands, 
which nearly close the entrance, are 
called Bangs's and House islands. Fort 
Preble stands on the former, and Fort 
Scammel on the latter. Due east is 
Seguin lighthouse, which is visible, in 
clear weather, thirty-two miles distant, 
at the mouth of the Kennebec. Nearer, 
and in the same quarter, lie numerous 
islands of vai'ious forms. 

The intrenchments on the hill, west 
of the observatory, belong to Fort Sum- 
ner, and part of them were made during 
the Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, 
on the water's edge, is Fort Burroughs. 

Portland (the former name was Fal- 
mouth) was burnt in the Revolutionary 
war by Captain Mowatt, in the British 
sloop-of-war Canceau, on the 18th of 
October, 1775, on the refusal of the 
inhabitants to deliver up their arms. 
About one hundred and thirty houses, 
three quarters of all the place contained, 
were consumed, some being set on fire 
with brands, after a cannonade and bom- 
bardment of nine hours. The old church 
is among the buildings saved, and has 
the mark of a cannon-shot in it. A small 
part of the hotel belonged to one of the 
houses not destroyed. There are many 
fine stores and dwelling-houses in the 
middle of the town, and the shore is 
lined with shipping. Pop. 28,000. 

Augusta, — This town, the capital of 
Kennebec county, is fifty-six miles 
northeast from Portland, and two miles 
north of Hallowell. It stands on both 
sides of the Kennebec, forty-seven miles 
from its mouth, and has a bridge across 
that river, connecting its two parts. It 
is a place of some trade, being at the 
head of sloop-navigation. The situation 
is pleasant, on the top and sides of an 
elevation. Population, 9,000. 

The statehouse has a fi'ont of one hun- 
dred and fifty feet, toward the east, with 
two wings, of thirty-three and fifty-four 
feet, on a plan somewhat resembling that 
at Boston ; and its position, on Capitol 
hill, is commanding. It is built of gran- 
ite, and has eight granite columns, twen- 
ty-one feet high, each \veighing ten tons. 
The top of the dome is one hundred and 
fourteen feet from the ground. 

Hallowell is a considerable town, 



fifty-four miles northeast from Portland, 
and is a place of much business, and one 
of the principal in the state. The Ken- 
nebec is navigable in vessels of one hun- 
dred and fifty tons, and an extensive and 
productive tract of country is depend- 
ent on it. Granite of excellent quality 
abounds in the vicinity, which is quar- 
ried on a considerable scale. 

Brunswick. — This town is situated 
on the left bank of the Androscoggin riv- 
er, at the Pejepscot falls, which here 
make an extensive water-power. It con- 
tains about six thousand inhabitants, ten 
churches, two academies, cotton and wool- 
len factories, and is the seat of 

Botvdoin College. — The two larger 
buildings represented in the engraving, 
are occupied by the students. The three- 
story building contains the mineralogical 
cabinet, gallery of paintings, medical cabi- 
net, the library, and lecture rooms. The 
northerly of the two central buildings, 
besides rooms for th^ students, has reci- 
tation-rooms, and two spacious apart- 
ments for the libraries of two societies. 
This edifice was erected in place of the 
one destroyed by fire in 1836. The 
I three-story building is called Massachu- 
' setts hall, the large building on the south, 
Maine hall, the other, North college. 

It was after several petitions had been 
presented to the government of Massa- 
chusetts, that, in 1731, a bill was intro- 
duced for the establishment of a college 
in the district of Maine, which was to 
be called Bowdoin college, after the dis- 
tinguished governor of that name. It 
was not built, however, until 1734, du- 
ring which time Brunswick was chosen 
as the seat of the college. This act also 
appointed aboard of trustees, which was 
to consist of thirteen members, and a 
board of overseers, of forty-five mem- 
bers, who were to regulate the institu- 
tion. At the same time a grant was 
made to it of five townships of wild land 
in the interior of Maine. Immediately 
after its establishment. Governor Bow- 
doin's son, honorable James Bowdoin, 
made to it a donation of a thousand acres 
of land, and upward of eleven hundred 
pounds in money. Now the business 
of the boards was the erection of a suit- 
able building. Accordingly, a meeting 



20 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



was called at Brunswick, in 1796, for 
the selection of a location. This town 
is on a sandy plain, south of the Andros- 
coggin river. The plain is slightly ele- 
vated, nearly a mile south of the river ; 
and this spot was chosen as the most 
desirable situation for the college. Al- 
though the uninterrupted level of the 
ground, and the dark green of the pines 
and firs, render the scenery of Bruns- 
wick rather monotonous, yet, by its quiet 
retirement, it is well adapted for the seat 
of an institution of learning. Shortly 
after, the brick building, called Massa- 
chusetts hall, was erected, and received 
the name which it still bears. 

The boards assembled, in July, 1801, 
for the election of a president. The 
Rev. Dr. M'Keere, from Beverley, Mas- 
sachusetts, was chosen ; an 1 Mr. John 
Abbott was chosen professor of lan- 
guages. They were inducted into office 
on the 2d of September. Also, at this 
time, eight students were admitted to 
the institution. The services were per- 
formed on a stage which was raised un- 
der a grove of evergreens, near to the 
college. In 1804, Mr. Samuel Willard 
entered the college as tutor, and the fol- 
lowing year Mr. Parker Cleaveland was 
installed professor of mathematics and 
natural history. Mr, Bowdoin had given 
one thousand acres of land toward this 
professorship. 

The first commencement of this col- 
lege was in 1806, when the honors of the 
institution were conferred upon seven 
young men. The name of Richard Goff, 
Esq., of Boston, stands first on the list 
of o-raduates. This was the only com- 
mencement at which President M'Keene 
was allowed to preside, for, in July of 
the following year, he was removed by 
death from the scene of his labors. 

Eastport, on Moose island, occupy- 
ing the extreme point of the coast of the 
United States on the eastern border, is 
a spot intevesting alike for its military 
importance and its natural features. 
The ground is rocky, and rises abruptly 
from the western shore of St. Croix 
river, to a considerable eminence, which 
is crowned by the fort, on which waves 
the first American flag that greets the 
eye of a traveller from the east, on ap- 



proaching our country. It is 41 miles 
east-northeast from Machias, 176 miles 
east from Augusta, and 279 miles east- 
northeast from Portland. It contains 
2,500 inhabitants. 

Moose island, on which Eastport is 
situated, lies in Passamaquoddy bay, and 
is fo'ir miles long, surrounded by deep 
wa':er, and connected with Lubec by a 
ferry, and with Perry by a bridge. 
The village is in the south part of the 
island, and is a place of considerable 
business ; the lumber-trade and fishing 
being carried on with activity. 

Bangor. — This city is situated on the 
west side of the Penobscot, at the head 
of navigation, on an elevation which 
commands an extensive view. There is 
a bridge across the river, 1,329 feet in 
length ; and the place contains a court- 
house, a jail, seven churches, a bank, 
two academies, and a population of 
fifteen thousand. It is thirty-five miles 
north from Castine, sixty-five northeast 
of Augusta, and two hundred and twen- 
ty-two miles from Boston, with which 
communication is held by steamboats, 
touching at Portland, to which latter 
place rail-road trains run daily. An ex- 
tensive trade in lumber is carried on at 
Bangor. The distance from the sea, at 
Owl's Head point, is thirty miles. 

The spot now occupied by the town 
was in a wilderness only about fifty 
years ago. The region above, lying in 
the valley of the Penobscot, and natu- 
rally tributary to Bangor, is an area of 
nine thousand square miles. The wa- 
ter-power is abundant, and applicable to 
a great variety of machinery. There 
are few places in the Union which pos- 
sess greater advantages of this kind. 
The lumber-trade, which has formed the 
chief source of business and prosperity, 
must necessarily decrease ; but the clear- 
ing of the land will as naturally be ac- 
companied with the extension of agri- 
culture and the increase of its more 
valuable products, which will of course 
seek their vent through this town. Nav- 
igation is active during the summer-sea- 
son, and'' much transportation is per- 
formed in the winter in sleighs. The 
soil in the neighborhood is good for 
brickmakins: 



22 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



Bangor, on account of its rapid growth, 
as well as its important position, and the 
beauty of its situation, is the place of 
the greatest note in the interior of the 
state. The Kenduskeag enters the Pe- 
nobscot nearly at right-angles, dividing 
the town into two parts, and diversify- 
ing the surface in the environs with high 
and picturesque banks. The town ap- 
pears to great advantage on approach- 
ing it from down the valley of the Pe- 
nobscot, as it is gradually disclosed to 
view, displaying its numerous clusters 
of houses spread up the rising grounds 
and over the more level surface on the 
summit of the bank. On the northwest 
side of the town the eminence commands 
an extensive and charming view. Mount 
Katahdin appearing in the distance, in 
clear weather, though more than seventy 
miles off, its head often capped with 
snow. 

Judge Williamson's History of Maine 
informs us, that the first settlement was 
made in this place in the year 1769, 
when only one family became the inhab- 
itants. A second followed in the course 
of 1770 ; and two years later there were 
twelve families. In 1787, the first pub- 
lic meeting was held, to procure a pas- 
tor and a place for public worship ; when 
the Rev. Seth Noble, a whig refugee 
from Nova Scotia, was appointed, and 
received his ordination under the shade 
of an oak-tree. He received a salary 
of four hundred dollars from the people 
residing on both sides of the river, and 
remained there twelve years. He was 
appointed, in 1791, to procure an act of 
incorpoi'ation from the Massachusetts 
legislature ; and, although the people 
proposed to call the place Sunbury, the 
present name was chosen. 

The courthouse (now the city-hall) 
was the first public building erected in 
the place, in 1812. It was occupied for 
public worship, as well as fi)r various 
other public purposes, until 1822. That 
year the first meetinghouse was built, 
by the only religious society existing 
there. The Rev. Harvey Loomis, who 
was ordained in 1811, officiated in it un- 
til 1822, when, having preached a new- 
year's sermon, on the 2d of January, 
from the text, " This year thou shalt 



die," on leaving the pulpit he dropped 
down dead. Five years afterward the 
building was destroyed by fire ; and, 
in 1831, a handsome brick edifice was 
erected in its place. 

In 1828, three houses for public wor- 
ship were commenced, by societies of 
methodists, baptists, and unitarians, and 
several others were erected a few years 
later; and, in 1832, a large courthouse, 
with county offices, and a jail. 

The Theological Seminary has three 
professors, about fifty students, and a li- 
brary of seven thousand volumes. The 
classical and theological course occupies 
four years. It was instituted, in 1815, 
to prepare young men to p»each the 
gospel. A tract of five aci'es of land 
was given to the institution by Isaac 
Davenport, of Milton, Massachusetts, on 
which the present fine building stands. 
It is of brick, four stories high, and en- 
joys an elevated and commanding situa- 
tion. A second edifice, of a similar de- 
scription, with houses for the professors, 
was afterward planned. The institu- 
tion is under the direction of a board of 
trustees, and has a fund of about a hun- 
dred and twenty thousand dollars, 

T?ie Bangor House is one of the orna- 
ments of the town. It is constructed on 
a plan i-esembling that of the Tremont 
house in Boston, and was built in 1836. 

There is a bridge across the Penob- 
scot, and three across the Kenduskeag. 
Two of the latter were built by individ- 
uals. 

The first printing-office was opened 
in Bangor in the year 1815, by Peter 
Edes. The first bank was established 
in 1818 ; and banks have since been mul- 
tiplied to supply the demands of the ex- 
tensive lumber-business and navigation 
carried on here. The ice interrupts the 
river-trade during four or five months in 
the year ; but the river is generally open 
to Frankfort, twelve miles below. 

The first railroad in the state was that 
from Bangor to Oldtown, in Oxford coun- 
ty, twelve miles of which was opened in 
1836, at an expense of $250,000. 

The market-house is large, and well 
planned. A rural cemetery, on the plan 
of that of Mount Auburn, near Boston, 
was laid out in 1836, two miles from the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE. 



23 



city, enclosing about thirty acres ; of 
which twenty belong to the public, and 
the remainder to individuals. A fine 
greenhouse is connected with it. 

In the neighborhood of Bangor, sev- 
eral small manufacturing villages have 
been founded by capitalists, where large 
quantities of timber are sawn. 

North Bangor. — Here are the mills 
of the Penobscot Milldam company. It 
is four miles from Bangor, on the road 
to Orono, and three miles from — 

Lower Stillwater Village, another of 
these industrious settlements, situated, 
like the preceding, on the Kenduskeag. 
The ample water-power at these places 
admits of a large amount of business. 

The population of Bangor experi- 
enced a very rapid increase in the course 
of a few years. In 1793, there were 
but forty-five rateable polls in the town. 
In ISOO, the population was 277; m 
1810, 850 ; in 1820, 1,221 ; in 1830, 
2,868 ; in 1840, 8,627 ; in 1850, 14,441. 

Bath, thirty-four miles northeast from 
Portland, and one hundred and fifty-three 
northeast from Boston, is situated on the 
western side of the Kennebec, and occu- 
pies a considerable eminence, on apiece 
of land almost isolated by several arms 
of the sea, from which it is distant about 
twelve miles. It is a considerable town, 
of 8,500 inhabitants, extends along the 
'river a mile and a half, and back from it 
about three fourths of a mile. The har- 
bor is excellent, and freely admits to its 
wharves ships of the largest size. There 
are in the town two banks and five acad- 
emies. Steamboats communicate daily 
with Portland and Boston during nearly 
the whole year. 

Castine, the capital of Hancock coun- 
ty, occupies a promontory on the east 
side of Penobscot bay, and has a good 
hai'bor, always open, and accessible to 
large vessels. It is in latitude forty-four 
degrees and twenty-four minutes, seven- 
ty-eight miles from Augusta, and a hun- 
dred and twenty-two east-northeast from 
Portland. Pop. 2,000. 

HouLTON is a military post jn a small 
branch of St. John's river, near the line 
of New Brunswick. It is one hundred 
and twenty miles north-northeast from 
Bangor. 



Fryeburg, sixty miles northwest of 
Portland, is remarkable both for its sit- 
uation and its history. The township, 
in its extent of six square miles, embraces 
a rich and beautiful valley, secluded on 
every side by a wild and mountainous 
range of country. The Saco river, ta- 
king its rise on Mount Washington, and 
flowing through the notch in the White 
hills, passes down the valley to Conway, 
where it finds the termination of the 
southern range ; and then turning ab- 
ruptly to the east, soon enters the charm- 
ing meadows of Fryeburg, and performs 
a serpentine course of no less than thir- 
ty-six miles within the limits of the 
township. 

The Indian fort was on a gentle hill 
at the western side of the village, which 
commands a view of the Saco valley 
six miles up its course, and six miles 
down. 

LoveVs Pond is on an isthmus, about 
one mile southeast from the village, and 
is memorable as the scene of one of the 
most severe and disastrous battles in the 
old partisan warfare against the Indians. 
The Portland road passes along the 
western side of the pond, and affords a 
view of its north end. This was the 
place of the action. Another road runs 
very near the north shore ; and it is a 
pleasant ride to the place. 

hovel's Expedition. — In 1725, Captain 
Level undertook a secret expedition 
through the wilderness against the Pick- 
waket tribe of Indians. Instigated by 
the French, they had committed many 
depredations on the frontier, so that the 
general court of Massachusetts had of- 
fered one hundred pounds each for their 
scalps. His company consisted of thir- 
ty or forty men, many of them accus- 
tomed to the life of hardy hunters and 
settlers, with young Mr. Frye for their 
chaplain, whose history was somewhat 
romantic, and from whom this town re- 
ceived its name. They passed up Win- 
nipiseogee lake, Ossipee pond, the Saco, 
and encamped at the mouth of Mill 
brook, at the northwest corner of Lev- 
el's pond. It happened that the Indians 
had gone down the Saco river, and on 
their teturn, discovering tracks, pursued 
them toward Level's pond, and, having 



24 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MAINE 



discovered the encampment, and the way 
they had gone, removed their packs, and, 
forming an ambush around the place, 
fired upon them, on their return, and 
killed eight men. The white men re- 
treated to the northeast corner of the 
pond, where is a narrow strip of land, 
and defended themselves till night ; and 
the remains of the unfortunate expe- 
dition returned through the forest, suf- 
fering from hunger and fatigue, and 
some of them from wounds. 

Schago Lake. — This is one of the 
numerous bodies of water, of different 
forms and sizes, which spot the surface 
of Maine, and cover so large a part of 
it. It has been estimated that, including 
lakes and rivers, one sixth part of the 
surface of the state is water. Sebago 
lake is in Cumberland county, and thir- 
teen miles by twenty in extent, nearly 
divided by a long cape, which extends 
from the eastern side, in Raymond, in a 
southwest dii-ection. No less than five 
townships lie upon its shores. It re- 
ceives Crooked river from the north, 
with the waters of Long lake, which 
flow into that stream through its outlet. 
Presumpscut river, which drains Sebago 
lake from the south, falls into Casco 
bay, and affords a channel of navigation 
in boats to Portland. 

Monschead Lake, in Kennebec coun- 
ty, and the source of the east branch 
of Kennebec river, is sixty miles in 
length, of an irregular form, and sur- 
rounded by a tract of country but little 
inhabited. 

Mount Desert LigMhouse. — Off a part 
of the coast remarkable for its deso- 
late and forbidding character, and upon 
a small barren rock, is erected the tall 
and fine lighthouse depicted in the vig- 
nette at the head of this description. 
One of the spots most dangerous to 
passing ships, and most destitute of the 
means of subsistence for shipwi'ecked 
strangers, is thus provided with one of 
those marks for navigators which now 
occupy every important point along our 
seaboard, from one extremity of the 
country to the other. 

INIount Desert island, which lies be- 
tween Union river and Desert sound, is 
fifteen miles in length, and twelve in 



breadth. It is in latitude forty-four 
degi-ees twelve minutes, and comprises 
a township of the same name. 

With so large a surface as Maine 
comprehends, such supplies of timber, 
and such remarkable facilities for pro 
curing, sawing, and transporting it ; 
with so much valuable land cleared and 
clearing as the forests are removed ; to- 
gether with a population of such ener- 
getic character and intelligence, a more 
rapid increase of numbers, wealth, and 
power, might be anticipated, if more 
genial climates and more luxuriant soils 
did not attract the great masses of emi- 
grants in other directions. In spite, 
however, of the richness of the westeni 
and southern lands, and the softness of 
the climates in the new states and terri- 
tories, Maine will probably continue to 
improve, and to experience a more solid 
and substantial growth than could be 
produced by the introduction of a less 
educated and hardy population. 

According to the censuses, taken suc- 
cessively, Maine contained 96,540 in- 
habitants in 1790; 151,719 in l&OO ; 
228,705 in 1810; 298,335 in 1820; 
399,955 in 1830; 501,793 in 1840; and 
583,088 in 1850. 

Maine has a stringent law for the 
suppression of traffic in intoxicating li- 
quors. It allows the seizure and confis- 
cation of liquor wherever found, with 
the exception of places designated by 
proper authority, wheie it may be sold 
for mechanical or medicinal purposes. 
Those who are discovered with this illicit 
article of traffic in their possession, are 
allowed no redress for the loss by the 
confiscation of their property; and the 
attempt to try the matter judicially is 
ineffectual, as the courts are forbidden 
to entertain suits of this description. 

The contrast presented in this state, 
by a comparis(m between the present 
and several past periods of its history, 
is striking indeed. The most favoi-able 
effects resulted from its separation from 
Massachusetts and erection into a state. 
Legislation, with the energies of the peo- 
ple, has effected wonders ; while com- 
merce, agriculture, manufactures, and 
education, are annually making advances, 
which bid fair to continue. 



DESCRIPTION OF TIIK STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE 



25 




This state is bounded on the north 
by Canada, east by Maine, south. liy 
Massachusetts, and west by Vermont. 
Connecticut river forms a part of the 
northern boundary, and its western 
shore the whole of the western, the 
entire breadth of the stream belong- 
ing to New Hampshire. Extending 
from latitude forty-two to forty-five, 
and having much mountainous sur- 
face, the climate is cold, and in some 
parts severe, although the southern 
regions, being both low and nearer 
the ocean, have milder seasons and 
shorter winters. 

The Allegany range, which crosses this state near the middle, though here 
far distant from its broadest ranges, has its highest peaks in the White hills, 
whose principal eminences tower above all other peaks this side of the Rocky 
mountains. In that region are the sources of the principal rivers of the state. 
The Merrimack rises from the outlet of Winnipiseogee lake, a broad and beauti- 
ful sheet of water lying at the foot of the southern eminences of that Alpine 
region ; while the Ammonoosuc, pouring down the steep declivity of Mount 
Washington, finds its way to the Connecticut; and the Saco, a direct tributai'y to 
the Atlantic, after rising within a kw yards of the Ammonoosuc, is soon diverted 
in an opposite channel, and, flowing through the celebrated Notch in the moun- 
tains, waters the most Alpine region of New England, before it reaches the 
manufactories at its mouth, which are moved by its power. 

The impediments offered to navigation are not only", in a great measure, coun- 
terbalanced i)y the abundance of valuable water-power afforded by nature, but 
are obviated by science and art, in the construction of railroads as well as canals, 
whicti have been multiplied within a few years, in proportion to the increasing 
demands created by the numerous manufactories. In all these branches of 



26 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



improvement, New Hampshire has dis- 
played a degree of intelligence and en- 
terprise unsurpassed by any other state, 
in proportion to her extent and re- 
sources, and promises to reap from them 
long-continued benefits. 

A large part of her territory is ren- 
dered useless by lofty, wild, barren, and 
almost inaccessible mountains. The 
surface, soil, and climate there discour- 
age almost any attempt at cultivation, 
and in many places entirely refuse a 
spot for the habitation of man. Im-' 
mense masses of stone, however, which 
have been brought down from those re- 
gions, by some ancient cause not easily 
explained, are spread over the surface 
for seventy or eighty miles south, and 
have supplied the state with one of the 
chief sources of its wealth. Blocks of 
granite and sienite have been cut up 
for building, and transported to near 
and many distant places, often at great 
profit. The New Hampshire stones of 
these kinds, like those from some of the 
adjacent states, aie known, used, and 
highly valued, and form the materials in 
constructing many of the finest edifices 
in our cities, even to the southern ex- 
tremities of our country. 

The northern extremity of this state 
is in latitude forty-five degrees eleven 
minutes, and the southern in forty-two 
degre'es forty-one minutes. The area 
is 9,280 square miles ; and the popula- 
tion in 1850 was 317,864. New Hamp- 
shire has the smallest extent of seacoast 
of all the Atlantic states — only eighteen 
miles. There is but one good harbor 
in the state — viz., Portsmouth where is 
a navy-yard of the United States. Ly- 
ing at the mouth of the Piscataqua river, 
and having a great depth of water, this 
port is deficient in one very important 
respect. That river is navigable but a 
short distance, when it is broken by a 
fall. The Merrimac has a succession 
of rapids, which have been canalled and 
locked all along its course, and render 
it useful for boat navigation. But its 
principal value is for manufacturing, in 
which respect, however, it is one of the 
most valuable streams i«a the United 
States. The largest and most flourish- 
ing manufacturing town in the Union, 



Lowell, in Massachusetts, occupies the 
most advantageous point on the Merri- 
mac, on the south side, by which it is 
supplied with abundant water-power. 

Lakes. — Winnipiseogee lake is re- 
markable for its picturesque shores, and 
numerous and beautiful islands, as well 
as for the fine scenery which here be- 
gins to display itself, oflfering, to the 
traveller from the south, the first and 
distant introduction to the noble fea- 
tures of the White mountains. It is 
twenty-three miles in length and ten in 
breadth, measured in the widest part. 
The water is remarkably clear, and 
abounds in fish. 

Sqtiam Liuke, situated north of it, is 
six miles long and thi"ee wide, and lies 
at' the bottom of a djeep and narrow val- 
ley, surrounded by several mountainous 
elevations, excejit on the side where it 
sends an inlet into Winnipiseogee. Fine 
trout abound here, which are taken in 
considerable numbers, and salted for 
market. 

Above these lie Ossipee and Sunapee 
lakes, which are of inferior size. 

Connecticut River. — This is the 
principal stream of New England, both 
for size, the rich and populous country 
through which it passes, and the large 
meadows which it annually overflows 
and fertilizes. It rises in the elevated 
region between this state and Canada, 
in a pond called Lake Connecticut ; and 
its eastern branch marks the boundary 
between the two countries, to a point 
at the distance of one mile from the 
forty-fifth degree of north latitude. The 
course of the river is nearly south, and, 
after separating New Hampshire and 
Vermont, it flows on through Massachu- 
setts and Connecticut, and falls into 
Long Island sound at Saybrook. It 
is navigable in sloops to Hartford, in 
steamboats a few miles further, and in 
flat-bottomed boats through Massachu- 
setts to the middle of this state. 

Short canals, with locks, are formed 
round the falls at Enfield, Connecticut, 
and South Hadley, Massachusetts ; but 
the Farmington canal, with its extension 
to Northampton in the last-mentioned 
state, takes off" a portion of the trade to 
1 New Haven ; and much freight, as well 



28 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



as most of the travellers, now pass more 
swiftly along the banks of the stream 
over the railroads. Several important 
routes cross Connecticut river at differ- 
ent points ; but the principal one is the 
railroad route from Boston to Albany, 
through Springfield. 

Natural Curiosities. — The Notch, 
Flume, and several objects in the heart 
of the White mountains, may be termed 
curiosities, and a remarkable rock in 
Franconia is noted as such. The pro- 
file, when viewed from a particular 
point, presents a considerable resem- 
blance to the human profile, whence it 
has received the name of The Old Man 
of the Mountains. The peak rises about 
one thousand feet above the valley at its 
base. 

History. — The first settlements were 
made as stated on page 42, at Dover and 
Portsmouth, in 1623; and the people 
voluntarily united themselves to Massa- 
chusetts in 1641. But in 1679 the coun- 
try was constituted a separate colony 
by Charles II. For many years the 
frontier villages suffered severely from 
the hostile incursions of the Indians, 
usually led or sent against them by the 
French Jesuits in Canada. Many dwel- 
lings were burned in the wars of Philip 
and France, many lives were lost, and 
many captives taken to Canada. 

The people of New Hampshire boi'e 
an active part in the war of the revolu- 
tion. On the 21st of June, 1788, the 
convention of the state adopted the con- 
stitution of the United States by a vote 
of fifty-seven to forty-six. 

Portsmouth, the principal seaport in 
New Hampshii-e, is the capital of Rock- 
ingham county. It enjoys a pleasant 
situation at the mouth of Piscataqua, 
three miles from the ocean. The har- 
bor, although perfectly shut in by land, 
is ijever obstructed by ice. It is fifty- 
four miles from Boston, and four hun- 
dred and ninety-three from Washington. 
It is connected with the town of Kittery, 
in Maine, by two bridges, and a third 
extends to Great island, where is a 
lighthouse. The navy-yard is on Con- 
tinental island, on the eastern side of 
the harbor. There are eigltt churches, 
seven banks, two markets, a custom- 



house, an athenaeum, and an almshouse. 
The population is about ten thousand. 
The Boston and Portland railroad passes 
through the town. 

The Athenceum, incorporated in 1817, 
has about five thousand volumes in its 
library, a cabinet of minerals, and col- 
lections in other branches of natural 
history. 

Concord. — This town, the capital of 
New Hampshire, is located upon the 
Merrimack river, with the principal vil- 
lage upon the western side. It is forty- 
five miles, west-northwest, from Ports- 
mouth, and seventy-four miles, north- 
north-west, from Boston by railroad, and 
sixty-two by turnpike. It has communi- 
cation, also, with Boston by the Merri- 
mac river and the Middlesex canal, and 
engrosses the chief trade from the north. 
Main street, its principal thoroughfare, 
on which are located most of the public 
buildings, and the stores and principal 
places of business, is about two miles 
in length. A fine intei-vale lies between 
the village and the river. Here are the 
statehouse, state prison, lunatic asylum, 
also a state institution, county court- 
house, several banks, twelve churches, 
and several other public buildings. Con- 
cord has about eight hundred and fifty 
dwelling-houses, and a population of 
about nine thousand. 

The Statehouse, a beautiful structure, 
appropriately built of granite, is one 
hundred and twenty-six feet in length, 
and forty-nine in breadth. It occupies 
a conspicuous situation, surrounded by 
a fine park. The view from the cupola 
is very extensive and picturesque. The 
halls of the house of representatives and 
the senate contain several works of art ; 
among which are a portrait of Count 
Rumford, the founder of the town, after 
whom it was originally named, and a 
full-length likeness of Washington (after 
Stuart) by Walter Ingalls, a native-artist 
of the granite state, whose lifelike portraits 
have, both in his own country and abroad, 
given him a high rank in his profession. 

A few years since, but a single rail- 
road extended to Concord ; but several 
roads now radiate from this busy town, 
and the enterprise of the people, being 
once awakened to their true interests, 



30 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



will not rest till the iron bands, which 
are drawing the extremes of our wide- 
spread country nearer and nearer, shall 
extend to every section of the state, 
and even to the commercial metropolis 
of Canada. 

Manchester. — This city is one of the 
youngest but most flourishing manu- 
facturing places in the state. It was 
commenced with activity, by a large 
Boston company, about ten years ago, 
at one of the best sites for water-power 
on the Merrimac, and has rapidly in- 
creased in business. Pop. 20,000. The 
soil is sandy, and the situation favorable 
only for the objects for which the town 
has been built ; but the prospects are 
flattering for permanent and increasing 
prosperity. The good regulations es- 
tablished in most of the other lai'ge 
manufacturing places in New England, 
have been, from the first, adopted here, 
and the results are highly favorable. 
Precautions are taken to secure com- 
fortable, healthy, and respectable lodg- 
ings and accommodations for the work 
people, or " operatives," of both sexes. 
Several churches, of different denomina- 
tions, are erected ; schools are abun- 
dant ; and the agents of the manufacto- 
ries are men of intelligence and public 
spirit, who favor all measures for moral 
and intellectual improvement. A rail- 
road, as in most other instances in towns 
of this kind, affords its advantages. 

Several other towns might be men- 
tioned, in this part of the state, of a 
similar character, though none of so 
recent a date, and such rapid and re- 
markable growth. The various and val- 
uable products of manufacturing skill, 
constantly yielded by the thousands of 
industrious hands and busy wheels in 
these places, find their way to Boston, 
with but few exceptions ; the grand 
route of transportation being ihe Lowell 
raili'oad, with its extension and branches. 
It is by this channel that the capital of 
that wealthy city extends its influence 
through this part of the country, and 
brings its profitable returns to the 
wharves, whence they are transported 
to distant ports. 

There are many agreeable interior 
towns in the midst of pleasant agi'icul- 



tural regions. The land varies from 
valleys and level meadows, to swelling 
and often elevated uplands ; but the soil 
is . generally well cultivated, situations 
healthful and agreeable, and the state 
of society, in different degrees, refined 
and intelligent. Considerable diversity 
is observable, in different parts of New 
Hampshire, in the character of the pop- 
ulation. Portsmouth was, for a time, a 
seat of no little aristocratic pride, during 
the period of its existence as a royal 
colony ; and some remains of the feel- 
ings of those days may still be found. 
Large bands of emigrants, of the agri- 
cultural classes, who came out from 
Great Britain and occupied large tracts 
in the interior, were for a long time 
found slow in conforming to the habits 
and institutions which have always char- 
acterized those of puritan origin, who 
constitute the third division of the pop- 
ulation. 

Charlestown. — This is a beautiful 
village on the bank of Connecticut river, 
and one of the first places occupied, in 
early times, in the interior of the state. 
It was included within " Township No. 
4" (by which name it was long known), 
being one of a range of settlements first 
laid off" above the present line of Massa- 
chusetts. For many years it was much 
exposed to Indian depredations, and 
was defended by a small fort, built of 
logs, in a spot now crossed by the street, 
in the southern part of the village. In- 
significant as was this little place of de- 
fence, it was held by a few men, against 
a considerable body of savages, during 
a long and persevering attack. 

Walpole. — In full view of Connec- 
ticut river, this town occupies a fine, 
commanding situation, on a bold and 
beautiful hill, which rises abruptly from 
the shore, three or four miles south of 
Bellows' Falls. The country in the vi- 
cinity presents many striking scenes and 
beautiful landscapes ; the soil is strong 
and well cultivated, and the village very 
pleasant. Pop. 2,500. 

Bellows' Falls. — Although the vil- 
lage which bears this name is on the 
western side of the Connecticut, the re- 
markable descent of the stream from 
which it has received its name is within 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIHB 



31 



the bounds of New Hampshire. There 
is no other spot along its course Avhich 
bears so striking marks of the violent 
operations of nature. An immense mass 
of the hardest and most solid kind of 
gray granite has been burst through, 
and the masses have apparently been 
torn away in some long passage, while 
the smoothed surfaces of those which 
remain indicate the slow but consider- 
able effects of rushing streams, uninter- 
mitted for ages. A little above the spot, 
the water flows in a smooth and gentle 
current, and spreads out to a consider- 
able breadth ; while broad meadows on 
both sides line its course, and show 
marks of successive elevations which it 
foi'merly maintained at different periods. 
But just at the falls, the whole stream 
is confined between two rocks only a few 
feet apart ; while only a portion of the 
intermediate space is filled by the water, 
as large masses of granite lie between 
and divide the current into several 
parts. The rapidity and force of the 
descent are extremely great, so that ex- 
travagant reports have been made on 
the subject, especially by a singular 
writer of past days, Hugh Peters, who 
gravely published that the water was 
so much hardened by compression, that 
a crowbar could not be forced into it ! 

Salmon, however, used to pass the 
spot in great numbers, so long as they 
abounded in the river, and this, like 
many other waterfalls, was the site of a 
gi'eat Indian fishing-place. The deep 
pools in the bed of the stream were 
crowded with them at that season in the 
spring, when they annually moved up 
toward the shallow water to deposite 
their spawn ; and large encampments of 
savages were at that time made upon the 
banks. Marks still remain, especially 
in several figures engraved on a smooth, 
projecting piece of granite, a little be- 
low the cascade. 

A short canal was commenced, many 
years ago, to facilitate boat-navigation 
around the falls. The scenery at the 
spot is remarkably wild ; a mountain 
rising abruptly from the eastern bank 
of the river, covered with rocky and 
forest trees, and casting a deep shadow 
upon the roaring stream which rushes 



by at its base. An elevated bridge, 
which crosses it just below the falls, 
and affcjrds a near and almost terrific 
view of the tumultuous scene, gives the 
place a double interest in the eye of the 
traveller. The efl'ect of the whole is 
greatly heightened, by the contrast it 
forms with the rich and tranquil region 
which opens to the view above. One 
of the largest and most fertile tracts of 
alluvion there spreads out on the river's 
borders, through which its waters mean- 
der in long and graceful curves ; and 
well-tilled and productive fields, covered 
with the deepest verdure, extend to the 
borders of the rising grounds, which 
swell to the wooded uplands. 

Hanover. — This is a remarkably 
pleasant village, occupying a high level 
on the top of a considerable ridge of 
land, in the midst of a wild and sterile 
tract, which has but few inhabitants. 
It presents a pleasing aspect ; for be- 
sides having several streets with a num- 
bei; of neat houses, with court-yards and 
gai'dens, there is a large, level public 
square in the centre, well shaded with 
trees, and ornamented with some of the 
finest buildings in the place, especially 
tliose connected with the principal lit- 
erary institution of the state, viz. : — 

Dartmouth College. — This was origin- 
ally a school, founded by the Rev. Mr. 
Wheelock, for the education of Indian 
youth for the ministry of the gospel. 
With a zeal and perseverance fitting 
the enlightened and noble object, that de- 
voted man surmounted obstacles which 
it would be difficult to appreciate, to any 
one not intimately acquainted with the 
state of the country at the time. Like 
almost every other attempt made for the 
extensive and permanent benefit of that 
unfortunate race, it ultimately failed of 
success, so far as it related to them. In 
the course of years, however, it proved 
useful in an eminent degree ; and Dart- 
mouth college has long maintained a 
highly respectable rank among its kin- 
dred institutions. Among its alumni 
have been found many distinguished 
men ; and its standing and usefulness 
are likely to rise with the advance of 
population. 

The principal academical buildings 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



Stand on the eastern site of the square, 
wliile that of the medical department is 
a little further north. The houses of 
the president and professors are neat 
and handsome structures, and add much 
to the appearance of the village. 

Dartmouth college is supported by 
funds contributed by individuals at dif- 
ferent periods, and lands granted by this 
state and Vermont. The library of the 
institution contains about 4,500 volumes, 
and those belonging to societies of stu- 
dents about 9,000. The corporation 
consists of the governor and chief jus- 
tice of the state, the pi-esident, ten mem- 
bers elected for the purpose, the coun- 
cillors of the state, the president of the 
senate, and the speaker of the house of 
repi'esentatives. 

Moore's charity school, a well-en- 
dowed institution, is connected with the 
college. 

The following are the names and 
dates of the presidents of Dartmouth 
college : Rev. E. Wheelock, D. D., 17^9 
to 17'79; Jno. Wheelock, LL. D., 1779 
to 1815; Rev. Francis Brown, D. D., 
1815 to 1820 ; Rev. Daniel Dana, D. D., 
1820 to 1821 ; Rev. Rennet Tyler, D. D., 
1822 to 1828 ; Rev. Nathan Lord, 1828. 

The annual expense of tuition is 
twenty-seven dollars ; rent, seven and 
a half dollars ; board, from one dollar to 
one dollar and a half per week. 

The course of lectures in the medical 
college continues fourteen weeks. Four 
or five lectures are delivered daily. The 
fees are about fifty dollars. 

Haverhill is a town extending along 
the Connecticut, opposite the Great Ox- 
bow, one of the largest and most fertile 
ti'acts of meadow-land on this part of its 
course. The size of this stream is much 
smaller hei-e than in the lower part of 
the state ; yet its source is still quite 
distant ; and there are a few points con- 
nected with it which may be adveited 
to in this place. 

Connecticut river in this state makes 
a considerable part of its descent from 
its headwaters to the ocean level. Lake 
Connecticut is one thousand six hundred 
feet higher than Long Island sound; 
but six hundred of this is reduced in 
the first twenty-five miles, in which the 



course is southwest. The next twenty 
miles, where it runs more southwest, 
it descends three hundred and fifty 
feet more. Below this point are two 
considerable falls, the first of which is 
at the mouth of White river, and the 
other is Bellows Falls, which has been 
described. 

The Passumpsic, a considerable branch 
of the Conn«Jcticut, enters it at the foot 
of Fifteen-mile falls. Nearly two hun- 
dred small lakes, or ponds, are formed 
in different parts of the valley of the 
Connecticut, two of the largest of which 
are in New Hampshire, viz., Mascony 
and Sunapee. The fomner is seven 
miles long, and the latter twelve. From 
the superior elevations in this state, it 
is not surprising that five of the princi- 
pal rivers of New England should have 
their sources within its limits. 

The White mountains — those " Alps 
of New England," as they have been, 
not inappropriately, called — present nu- 
merous attractions to every visiter of 
taste and science, and are the annual 
resort of numerous travellers. Winni- 
piseogee lake, as we have before re- 
marked, lies on the route from the south, 
and at its outlet is situated one of the 
most flourishing villages in the state. 

Meredith. — This place has the ad- 
vantage of the water-power of Winni- 
piseogee river, and lies on the route of 
the railroad line from Concord north- 
ward, which is gradually extended as 
the stock is taken up, and is designed 
to extend to Canada. The town has 
some twenty stores, and its population 
is about 5,000. 

Red Mountain. — This is a conspicu- 
ous eminence, occupying a favorable 
position as a point of view, at the north- 
west corner of Lake Winnipiseogee, 
which is a favorite resort of travellers, 
being easy of access, and commanding 
a scene of the gi'eatest variety and 
beauty. The following description was 
written on the spot : — 

*' North, the eastern end of Squam 
lake, and part of a pond lying near it, 
with the range of the Sandwich moun- 
tains behind, stretching off" toward the 
east, with numerous dark-brown peaks, 
partly cultivated about their bases, and 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



33 



enveloped above with forests, excepting 
their summits, v^'hich are generally di- 
vested of verdure. Far beyond these 
appear several loftier peaks, which 
might be mistaken for the White moun- 
tains, were they visible from this point. 
An intermediate peak with rocky preci- 
pices is White-faced mountain. 

" East-northeast, the eye ranges up 
the spacious valley through which lies 
the way to the White mountains, and 
the road which is to conduct the travel- 
ler seems diminished to the dimensions 
of a garden walk. Chocaway, or, as it 
is familiarly called, Coroway peak, rises 
on the left ; while the noble ridge of 
the Ossipee mountains begins nearer at 
hand on the right, and almost overshad- 
ows the observer with its enormous size. 
The sides of these mountains show a 
beautiful display of farms, interspersed 
with wood-lots and dwellings, which in 
many places have encroached far toward 
the summits, and in others pursue the 
slope of the fertile uplands to the valley 
at their feet. Numerous elevations ap- 
pear at a greater, distance, and range 
themselves in lines to complete the per- 
spective of a most magnificent vista, 
which finally closes at a ridge, whose 
shade is reduced by its remoteness to 
the color of a cloud. A prominent and 
remarkable mountain, which appears 
scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket 
mountain, and rises by the Saco river, 
near the place whei-e Captain Level 
fought his well-known battle with the 
Indians ; and the fine valley between is 
the country passed over in that fatal ex- 
pedition, in both the approach and the 
retreat. 

" East, the view abuts upon the Ossi- 
pee mountains, and no variety is afforded 
until we turn to the south-southeast. In 
that direction, and further to the rio-ht, 
the whole surface of Winnipiseogee lake 
lies charmingly spread out to view, va- 
ried by numerous points and headlands, 
and interspersed with beautiful islands 
which man despairs to number. Sev- 
eral distant elevations appear, on this 
side of which the sloping land just men- 
tioned extends for several miles along 
the shore, with a well-cultivated surface 
spotted in all directions with large barns 



and farmhouses, to the very margin of 
the lake. There numerous points run 
out far into the water, to complete the 
labyrinths formed by the islands. Gun- 
stock mountain rises one point east of 
south, just on the left of which opens the 
entrance of Merry-meeting bay. The 
elevated island on the right of that is 
Rattlesnake island, named from the ven- 
omous reptiles Avitli which it abounds ; 
over this the distant land appeal's hitrh. 
South by west rises a high hill resem- 
bling the Ossipee in the richness of its 
slopes. 

'• The southwest and west is agree- 
ably varied with wood-lots and cleared 
fields, scattered over an undulated sur- 
face, which extends for many miles, in 
so'me places quite to the horizon, and 
in others to the broken boundary of tall 
but distant mountains. In the south- 
west appear two or three peaks, so far 
removed that they are almost lost in the 
blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen 
several ridges of inferior magnitude, 
which, approaching as the eye slowly 
moves toward the left, at length come 
near the lake, and disappear behind the 
neighboring mountains. 

" Long pond may be distinguished by 
its shining surface between the west 
and south, with several other little sheets 
of water, which lie in tranquillity under 
the shelter of the hills. 

" Winnipiseogee lake is nineteen miles 
in length, from Centre Harbor to Alton, 
at the southeastern extremity. Merry- 
meeting bay lies beyond. Several of 
the islands are large, and contain good 
farms and wealthy inhabitants, although 
only two or three belong to any town, 
or pay any taxes. Some of their names 
are Rattlesnake, Cow, Bear, and Moon 
islands ; also, Half-Mile, One-Mile, Two- 
Mile islands, &c., &c. None of them 
contain churches ; and although they 
have few school-houses, yet sufficient at- 
tention is paid to the rudiments of edu- 
cation to render the children intelligent. 
Winnipiseogee lake, according to sur- 
veys made by Mr. Baldwin in 1825, is 
five hundred and one feet above the 
ocean, 

" Squam lake lies west from Red 
mountain, and, like Winnipiseogee lake. 



3 



34 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



abounds not only in islands, but in fish 
of the finest descriptions." 

Centre Harbor. — This is a village 
situated at the northwest extremity of 
the lake, in the midst of interesting 
scenery. The inhabitants are engaged 
in fishing as well as agriculture, and the 
place is a favorite stopping-place for 
travellers. At a short distance rises 
Red mountain, just spoken of 

Conway, six miles. — The view of the 
White mountains is very fine from this 
place, presenting a succession of lofty 
ridges, the most distant of which are the 
peaks of Mounts Washington, Adams, 
Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and Quin- 
cy. The most prominent elevation on 
the right, with two summits, is Kear- 
sarge, or Pickwaket ; a level meadow 
lies in the foreground, with an isolated 
woody hill in the middle, and the Saco 
river, which rises on Mount Washing- 
ton, and flows down a narrow valley, 
with many meanderings. 

The Chalijhcate Spring, in Conway, 
is in a valley, with mountains on every 
side except the southeast. From near 
the church, the White mountains are in 
sight. Two or three miles above, the 
Saco valley bends to the left, and Ellis's 
river comes down a narrow vale in front. 
A tremendous catastrophe occurred 
among the White mountains on the 
night^of August 28, 1826. A storm of 
rain, unprecedented within the memory 
of the oldest inhabitants, deluged the 
principal peaks of the mountains, and 
poured such an inundation upon the val- 
leys and plains below, that it is com- 
monly attributed to the " bursting of a 
cloud ;" although that expression is a 
very ill-defined one. The effects pro- 
duced by the flood will remain for cen- 
turies. 

The inundation was so gi-eat and so 
sudden, that the channels of the stream 
were totally insufficient to admit of 
the passage of the water, which, conse- 
quently, overflowed the little level val- 
leys at the feet of the mountains. In- 
numerable torrents immediately formed 
on all sides ; and such deep trenches 
were cut by the rushing water, that vast 
bodies of earth and stones fell from the 
mountains, bearing with them the for- 



ests that had covered them for ages. 
Some of these " slides," as they are here 
popularly denominated (known am')ng 
the Alps as " avalancJies de tcrre"), are 
supposed to have been half a mile in 
breadth, and from one to five miles in 
length. Scarcely any natural occur- 
rence can be imagined more sublime ; 
and among the devastation which it has 
left to testify the power of the elements, 
the traveller will be filled with awe at 
the thought of that Being by whom they 
are controlled and directed. 

The streams brought away with them 
immense quantities of earth and sand, 
which the turbid water deposited, when 
any obstacle threw it back, in tempo- 
rary ponds and lakes. The forest-trees 
were also floated down, frequently, sev- 
eral miles from the places where they 
were rooted up. The timber was often 
marked with deep grooves and trenches, 
made by the rocks which passed over 
them, during their descent from the 
mountains ; and great heaps of trees 
were deposited in some places, while in 
others the soil of the Ijttle meadows was 
buried with earth, sand, or rocks, to the 
depth of several feet. 

The turnpike-road leading through 
this i-omantic country was twenty miles 
in length, but was almost entirely de- 
stroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty- 
three bridges upon it were demolished ; 
one of them, built with stone, cost one 
thousand dollars. In some places, the 
Saco river ran along the road, and cut 
down deep channels. 

The Willey house was the scene of a 
most melancholy tragedy on the night 
above mentioned, when this inundation 
occurred. Several days previously, a 
large "slide" came down from the 
mountains behind it, and passed so near 
as to cause great alarm, without any in- 
jury to the inmates. The house was 
occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, whose 
wife was a young woman of a very in- 
teresting character, and of an education 
not to be looked for in so wild a region. 
They had a number of young children, 
and their family, at the time, included 
several other persons, amounting in all 
to eleven. They were waked in the 
night by the noise of the storm, or more 



probably by the second descent of ava- 
lanches from the neighboring mountains, 
and fled in their night-clothes from the 
house to seek their safety, but thus threw 
themselves in the way of destruction. 
One of the slides, a hundred feet high, 
stopped within three feet of the house. 
Another took away the barn, and over- 
whelmed the family ; nothing was found 
of them for some time ; their clothes 
were found lying at their bedsides. The 
house had been started on its foundation 
by an immense heap of earth and tim- 
ber, which had slid down and stopped 
as soon as it touched it; and they had 
all been crushed on leaving the door, or 
borne away with the water that over- 
flowed the meadow. The bodies of sev- 
eral of them were never found. The 
last remains discovered were those of a 
child found in 1846. A catastrophe so 
melancholy, and at the same time so 
singular in its circumstances, has hardly 
ever occurred. It will always furnish 
the traveller with a melancholy subject 
of reflection. 

Bartlett is a village situated in a 
rich valley, or intervale, of about three 
hundred acres, where the view is bound- 
ed on every side by near and lofty moun- 
tains. There is another intervale among 
the mountains westward, which, although 
it contains as much good cleared land, 
has been converted into a common, in 
consequence of the difficulty of making 
a good road to it. Pursuing still the 
course of the narrow valley, against the 
current of the Saco, the country is found 
uncleared, except two or three pretty 
little meadows, and destitute of inhab- 
itants, excepting only three or four poor 
families, until arriving at Crawford's 
farm, seven and a half miles south of 
the Notch. The water rose in this 
house two feet in the flood of 1826. 
This is the place from which visiters 
formerly began their excnrsions to the 
mountains. 

Prospect Mountaifi, one of the princi- 
pal peaks, pi'esents itself to view a 
little before arriving at the first Craw- 
ford's, with its smooth rounded sum- 
mit of brown moss, rising several hun- 
dred feet above the region of vegeta- 
tion, and offering an aspect which 



distinguishes these from the other ele- 
vations. 

The climate in this narrow valley is 
still so warm as to favor the growth of 
various trees, which are scarcely to be 
found a few miles further north. The 
forests ai'e here formed of spruce, ash, 
beech, maple, and sugar-maple ; and In- 
dian corn grows well, which will not 
come to maturity beyond. The orchard 
contains hundreds of apple-trees. This 
is one of the principal stopping-places 
for the sleighs, which pass the moun- 
tains in great numbers, during the win- 
ter, for Portland, Boston, &c. 
I Nancy''s Hill is a small elevation a 
I few miles north of this place. In 1773 
! a young woman of respectable connex- 
ions, who accompanied a family of set- 
j tiers to Dai'tmouth (now Jefferson), set 
out in the winter to return to Ports- 
\ mouth, alone and on foot, her lover hav- 
ing promised to meet her there and 
marry her. There was then no house 
nearer than Bartlett, thirty miles. Nancy 
was found by some travellers in this 
spot, frozen and covered with ice, un- 
der a shelter formed of branches of 
trees, which was the only shelter to be 
found on the way. 

There is a place near the Notch, 
where the road suffered severe injury. 
It had been built up against the side of 
a mountain, on a wall foity or fifty feet 
high, and about thirty yards in extent, 
at the expense of five hundred dollars. 
This whole fabric was swept away by a 
mass of earth, rocks, and trees, which 
came from a half a mile up the side of 
the mountain, rushing down at an angle 
of forty-five degrees, and pi'ecipitated 
itself into the bed of the Saco, which is 
nearly three hundred feet below. 

The road rises with a steep ascent 
for a considerable distance before it 
reaches the Notch, and the traveller ob- 
serves two catai'acts, one pouring down 
a precipitous mountain at a distance on 
the west side of the valley, and the 
other, which is called the Flume, rush- 
ing down on the right hand, and cross- 
ing the road under a bridge. The 
scenery is sublime and impressive be- 
yond descriution. There is also another 
flume just beyond. 



38 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



The Notch is so narrow as to allow 
only room enough for the path, and the 
Saco, which is here a mere brook, only- 
four feet in breadth. It is remarkable 
that the Saco and the Ammonoosuc 
spring from fountains on Mount Wash- 
ington, within perhaps sixty yards of 
each other, though the former empties 
into the Atlantic, and the latter joins 
Connecticut river. Another branch of 
the Ammonoosuc approaches the Saco, 
in one place, within about six hundred 
yards. They are both crossed beyond 
the Notch. The head-waters of the 
Merrimac rise within about a mile and 
a half of this place, and run down a 
long ravine, little less remarkable than 
that of the Saco. 

A road was first made through the 
Notch in 1785. It was fifty or sixty 
feet higher than the present turnpike, 
and so steep that it was necessary to 
draw horses and wagons up with ropes. 
The assessment for the turnpike was 
made in 1806. 

Two rocks stand at the sides of this 
remarkable passage, one twenty, and 
the other about thirty feet, in perpen- 
dicular height. They are about twenty 
feet asunder, at six or seven yards from 
the north end, where they open to thirty 
feet. The part which appears to have 
been cut through is about one hundred 
and twenty feet long. A little meadow 
opens beyond, where is an inn. 

Mount Washington. — The ascent of 
the mountain was formerly a most ar- 
duous undertaking, and was very rarely 
performed ; but many ladies are now 
enumerated among those who have 
gained the summit. The whole way 
lies through a perfect forest. The first 
four miles are over a surface compara- 
tively level ; but the last two miles and 
a quarter are up an ascent not differing 
much from an angle of forty-five degrees. 

The streams of the Ammonoosuc river, 
which are to be crossed several times, 
show the ravages of the inundation of 
1826. 

The ascent of Mount Washington is 
laborious, and the most arduous exer- 
tion will be necessary to attain the 
summit, which seems to fly before the 
stranger when he deems it just attained, 



and to look down in derision from a 
new and more hopeless height. The 
first part of the way is through a thick 
forest of heavy timber, which is sud- 
denly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf 
and gnarled fir-trees, ten or fifteen feet 
high, and eighty rods, or about four 
hundred and fifty yards, broad ; which, 
ending as suddenly as they began, give 
place to a kind of short bushes, and 
finally a thin bed of moss, not half suf- 
ficient to conceal the immense granite 
rocks which deform the surface. For 
more than a mile, the surface is entirely 
destitute of trees. A few straggling 
spiders, and several species of little 
flowering plants, are the only objects 
that attract the attention under the feet. 

The following heights are stated to 
be those of the different peaks, above 
the level of the Connecticut river at 
Lancaster : Washington, 5,350 feet ; 
Jefferson, 5,261; Adams, 5.183 ; Mad- 
ison, 5,030 ; Monroe, 4,932 ; Quincy, 
4,470. Mount Washington is believed 
to be more than 6,400 feet above the 
ocean. 

In a clear atmosphere (says the 
" Northern Traveller"), the view is sub- 
lime, and almost boundless. The finest 
part of it is toward the southeast and 
south. Looking down the valley, through 
which the road has conducted us, a fine 
succession of mountainous summits ap- 
pears for many miles, extending below 
the bright surface of Winnipiseogee 
lake. 

Toward the southeast, also, the eye 
ranges over an extent of surface which 
quite bewilders the mind. Mountains, 
hills, and valleys, farmhouses, villages, 
and towns, add their variety to the nat- 
ural features of the country ; and the 
ocean may be discovered at the horizon 
with the help of a telescope, although 
the sharpest sight, perhaps, has never 
been able to distinguish it without such 
assistance. In that direction lies Port- 
land, the capital of Maine, and nearer 
is Lovel's pond. 

On the northeast is seen the valley of 
the Androscoggin river, which abounds 
in wild and romantic scenery, and was 
the usual passage by which the Indians, 
in their hostile incursions from Canada, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



39 



used to approach the eastern frontier 
settlements of Massachusetts and New 
Hampshire. Beyond are the Ktardin 
hills, near the extremity of Maine. 

North, the country is more wild and 
uncultivated ; and Umhagog lake is seen, 
from which flows the Androscoggin. 

West, the nearer view is over a moun- 
tainous region, covered with a thick for- 
est, through which an occasional opening 
is perceived, formed by the farms (or 
clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Be- 
yond, the hills are seen to rise from the 
opposite shore of Connecticut river, the 
surface of which is everywhere hid- 
den from view, and the summits, rising 
higher and higher, terminate in the 
ridges of the Green mountains in Ver- 
mont. 

Southwesterly is seen the Grand Mo- 
nadnock. 

The Indians knew the White moun- 
tains by the name of Agiocochook, and 
regarded them as inaccessible, or at 
least represented them as such to white 
men. 

The Lake of the Clouds is a little 
pond, near the summit of Mount Mon- 
roe, of beautiful clear water; it supplies 
the head stream of the Ammonoosuc 
river. This little current immediately 
begins its descent, and dashes in a head- 
long course of several thousand feet, in- 
to the valley near the encampment. 

Loose fragments of granite are every- 
where scattered over the mountain, with 
some specimens of gneiss. The granite 
is generally gray, and at first fine-grained, 
but grows coarser as we ascend, and is 
occasionally sprinkled with small gar- 
nets. At the summit it frequently con- 
tains a little black tourmaline, sometimes 
in crossing crystals. On the summit, 
also, some of the granite is tinged with 
red, although much of it is colored 
bright-green by lichens, dampened by 
the humidity of the clouds, and inter- 
spersed with thick and soft gray moss. 
The grain of the coarse granite is elon- 
gated ; and what strikes the visiter as 
very singular, is that not a single rock 
is to be found in its original place — 
everything bears the mark of removal ; 
and this, taken into view with the preci- 
pice on the northern side, seems to in- 



dicate that the summit of the mountain 
has fallen down and disappeared. 

The general opinion seems to be that 
the lofty peak above us is the highest 
elevation in North America, except Mex- 
ico, and some of the Rocky mountains. 
The inhospitable nature of the climate 
is such as to forbid all hopes of future 
improvement ; so that the feeling of sub- 
limity, produced by the lonely and des- 
olate character of this desert region, is 
increased by the reflection that it is des- 
tined to be a wilderness for ever. 

The only places susceptible of culti- 
vation in the heart of the mountains are 
the little meadows inhabited by single 
families, and that at the Notch house ; 
and there the interval of warm weather 
is so short in the year that few vegeta- 
bles can arrive at maturity, with all the 
rapidity of growth which distinguishes 
such cold regions. Indeed, the short- 
ness and uncertainty of crops, with the 
expense of keeping stock, &c., would 
scarcely allow the farmer a support, 
without the advantages afforded by the 
thoroughfare, which is particularly great 
during the winter season. Population, 
therefore, may extend to the borders of 
these regions, and increase, as it does, 
on every side ; but it can not pass the 
limit, because it can not contend with 
their coldness and sterility. 

Various kinds of wild birds and game 
are to be found in the woods, besides 
bears, wild-cats, and deer. The moose 
and the buffalo were formerly abundant 
among the mountains ; and it is scarcely 
forty years since they were killed in 
great numbers, merely for their hides 
and tallow, as the latter still are in the 
regions beyond the Mississippi. Deer 
are common in the woods, and frequently 
are killed by the hunters. Black bears 
are occasionally seen in the more unfre- 
quented places, but they will always 
endeavor to avoid a man. A large spe- 
cies of reindeer, known here by the 
name of the Cariboo, has made its ap- 
pearance in the White mountains. 

The weather is liable to frequent 
changes in the mountainous region, 
which is partly owing to the vicinity of 
the Notch, through which the wind 
blows almost without ceasing, even when 



40 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE 



the air is perfectly still at only a short 
distance from it. From the situation 
of the mountains, it is impossible that 
the direction of the wind should vary 
materially in the valley, and it is there- 
fore, of course, always north or south. 
During the winter it is often very vio- 
lent ; so that not only the snow is pre- 
vented from lying on the path at the 
Notch, but the surface is swept of every- 
thing that a strong wind can remove. 

The summits of the mountains are 
frequently invested with mist when the 
sky is clear, and those only who inhabit 
the vicinity are able to tell whether the 
day is to be favorable for the ascent. 
The mists sometimes collect in the val- 
leys, and then present sojiie of the most 
singular and beautiful appearances. 

The Shaker Village at Canterbury. — 
The accompanying engraving affords a 
view of this settlement of a small and 
very peculiar sect — the Shakers, or Sha- 
king Quakers, as they ai'e sometimes 
called. Like their other vill-ages, or 
"fiimilies," as they call their settle- 
ments, it consists of a few dwelling- 
houses and offices, or shops, in which 
their wares are manufactured, and their 
seeds and herbs prepared, stored, and 
sold. Separate habitations, of large 
size, are appropriated to the different 
sexes, as their doctrines condemn mat- 
rimony, sejjarate man and wife, and 
break up the real family state from its 
foundati(ni. Their moral and theologi- 
cal opinions it would be difficult to ascer- 
tain, as they keep much aloof and pub- 
lish but little, while few avow much that 
is consistent with one another, or even 
with themselves. The writer speaks 
from personal knowledge, having held 
a conference with the leading men of a 
Shaker village in this 2?art of the coun- 
try, and tried in vain to learn their 
whole creed. They only intimated a 
rejection of some of the doctrines held 
as fundamental by most American Chris- 
tian denominations. 

Ann Lee, an Englishwoman, thefound- 
er of their sect, they regard as a divine 
person, but differ in their representations 
of her. She formed the first Shaker set- 
tlement at Niskayuna, near Albany, N. Y. 
She came from England in 1774, 



The Shakers first took up their resi 
dence in Canterbury in 1782, and formed 
a society in 1792, under the direction 
of " Elder" Job Bishop, who died in 
1831, aged seventy-one, and was suc- 
ceeded by Benjamin Whittier. Their 
religious exercises consist, chiefly, of a 
peculiar dance, in which both sexes 
move, in a regular but awkward man- 
ner, about a large hall, sometimes whirl- 
ing round, and uttering inarticulate 
sounds. Some of them pretend to speak 
in " unknown tongues," to which no in- 
terpreter has ever yet been found. We 
add the following particulars, relating to 
this settlement, from a published de- 
scription : — 

This village is located in the north- 
easterly part of the county of Merrimack, 
on the main road from Concord to Con- 
way, twelve miles from Concord, on an 
eminence ; at the foot of which, as you 
approach the village, is a spacious gran- 
ite watering-trough, from the bottom of 
which boils a bountiful and 7iever-failing 
spring, furnished by the society for the 
accommodation of travellers. 

As you approach the village, the first 
object is the meetinghouse on the right, 
the only white building in the village, 
which stands a few rods from the road, 
at the head of a large open lawn. 

On the left stands the trustees' office, 
a new, spacious, and elegant building 
of hewn granite and pressed brick, sev- 
enty-two by forty feet in size. In this 
the trustees reside, and transact all the 
regular business of the family. To this 
office customers, strangers, and visiters, 
are to apply, who wish to buy or sell, or 
for the transaction of any business with 
the society whatever. 

All sales and purchases are made by 
the trustees, who are the general agents 
of the society for transacting all their 
secular matters, and in whom the fee of 
all the real estate in trust is held. | 

The total number of dwellinghouses 
in the society is ten, mostly of wood, 
painted yellow. There are also many 
other large and convenient wooden and 
brick buildings, occupied as woi-kshops ; 
also storehouses and granaries, wood- 
houses, barns, &c., which are spacious 
and convenient. 







y flllif'^i^'V^ 'm ':/)?«' 



42 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



The whole number of buildings in 
the village is about one hundred, many 
of which are very valuable, composed 
of the best materials, and built in a 
faithful and durable manner. Among 
these are a convenient schoolhouse, one 
spacious gristmill, two sawmills, three 
carding-machines, one fullingmill, one 
triphammer, five mills for sawing fire- 
wood, three turningmills, and two tan- 
neries, besides various other machinery. 
These buildings are all laid out and 
constructed in a regular, plain, and ele- 
gant manner, which gives the village a 
very fine appearance. 

The society own and occupy upward 
of 2,500 acres of land, which, though 
stony, is a good deep soil, about 2,000 
of which lie in one body, enclosed with 
good stone wall and cross-fenced with 
the same materials. Grass, corn, grain, 
and potatoes, are raised in abundance. 

They are industrious, frugal, and tem- 
perate. They manufacture many use- 
ful articles for sale, which are very neat 
and durable ; such as leather, whips, 
sieves, tubs, pails, churns, measures, 
rakes, brooms, trusses, snaths, &c., &c. 
Their gardens are large, and perhaps 
the most productive of any in the coun- 
try. They raise and vend a general 
assortment of garden-seeds, and spare 
no pains to furnish those of the best 
kind. They also collect and prepare a 
variety of botanical herbs, barks, roots, 
and extracts, which are prepared in the 
most faithful manner ; the herbs and 
roots are neatly pressed in packages of 
a pound, and papered and labelled. Ail 
the medicines prepared by them being 
pure, and gathei'ed in proper season, 
insure them a very ready sale. 

They usually keep about twenty 
horses, eighty cows, fifteen yoke of oxen, 
five to six hundred sheep, and other 
stock in proportion, and cut sufficient hay 
on their premises for their own con- 
sumption. They also annually slaugh- 
ter forty or fifty swine. 

They freely pay their proportion of 
taxes, and share all the burdens of gov- 
ernment, except the bearing of arms, 
which they deem incompatible with 
genuine Christianity, being, as they be- 
lieve, directly contrary to the precepts 



and spirit of the gospel. So tenacious 
are they of this fact, that they not only 
refuse to bear arms, but decline even to 
receive pensions for their former mili- 
tary services, to which some of them are 
legally entitled. 

Their school will compare well with 
any in the country. The English lan- 
guage is taught, and partly on the Lan- 
casterian system. They are careful to 
furnish the school with good books, sta- 
tionery, &c., so that their scholars, who 
are disposed, may acquire a good edu- 
cation. 

They entirely discard the use of ar- 
dent spirits, except occasionally in med- 
ical preparations, but drink some cider. 

They are temperate and regular in 
all their habits ; their food is plain and 
wholesome, avoiding all luxuries. The^- 
allow eight hours in twenty-four for 
sleeping. 

The society, from its commencement, 
has gradually increased in number, as 
well as in good order. At present it 
consists of about two hundred and forty 
members. 

History. — In 1621 the English Plym- 
outh company granted to John Mason, 
one of its members, the country between 
Naumkeag, or Salem, and the Merri- 
mack ; and soon after, in the same year, 
to Mason and Gorges all the lands be- 
tween the Merrimack and the Sagada- 
hock, extending back to the rivers of 
Canada. The latter tract was called 
Laconia. Two years later, two parties 
of settlers were sent out by " the La- 
conia company," who began settlements 
at Portsmouth and Dover. In 1629, 
Mason took out a new patent for the 
territory between the Merrimack and 
the Piscataqua, under the name of New 
Hampshire. In 1635, the Plymouth 
company divided New England among 
their members, before they gave up 
their charter to the king, and the terri- 
tory between Naumkeag and Piscat- 
aqua rivers fell to Mason. 

The first church formed within the 
present limits of the state dates in 1641. 
Coos county, including the northern 
parts of the valley of the Connecticut, 
was occupied by a few scattered fam- 
ilies before 1775 ; but at the commence- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 



43 



ment of the revolutionary war, the fear 
of invasion from Canada drove them all 
back, and only the leturn of peace could 
induce a second and permanent occupa- 
tion of that region, then a perfect wilder- 
ness, difficult of access. 

Railroads. — The people of this state 
have entered with commendable zeal 
upon several railroad enterprises, which 
promise to be of permanent advantage 
to the state. 

The Northern Railroad, homConcovA 
to Lebanon, a distance of fifty miles, has 
been completed the entire distance, and 
f trms, in conjunction with the Vermont 
Central railroad, a continuous line to Bur- 
lington, by way of Montpeliei-, the capital 
of Vermont, 210 miles from Boston. 

The Boston, Concord, and Montreal 
Railroad, already incidentally alluded 
to on page 32, is, as its name implies, 
intended ultimately to connect the com- 
mercial capitals of Canada and New 
England. It has been opened as far as 
Wairen, and is being rapidly pressed to 
completion. This road furnishes an easy 
and rapid conveyance to the White mount- 
ains ; while the whole line of the route 
from Meredith village lies through a re- 
gion so replete with that splendid lake 
and hill scenery which has given such a 
world-wide celebrity to New Hampshire, 
as to I'ender it, for that alone, a desirable 
route for the admirer of the beauties of 
nature. 

Portsmouth and Concord Railroad. — 
This is another and most important rail- 
road enterprise. Concord, as indicated 
by its being the point at which so many 
railroads meet, is destined to become the 
great inland freight-depot of New Eng- 
land. This renders it important that the 
commercial capital of the state should pos- 
sess those facilities of communication with 
Concord which other sections of country 
have, particularly as it shortens the com- 
munication by railroad with the Atlantic 
about thirty miles. This road, which is 
now nearly completed, will make Ports- 
mouth the second port in New England. 

There are several other raih-oads in 

jJrocess of construction, but our limits 

will not admit a fuither reference to them. 

Education. — Common schools are 

universal in New Hampshire, as in other 



parts of New England. Each township 
is divided into school-districts, which are 
empowered to build schoolhouses. An 
annual tax is assessed on the town by 
the selectmen, and with the avails of it 
is distributed the income of the literary 
funds, which is raised by a tax on the 
capital of banks. 

Academies, or high-schools, are scat- 
tered all over the state. The oldest are 
those founded at Exeter in 1781, at Ches- 
terfield in 1790, at Atkinson in 1791, and 
at Gilmanton and Haverhill in 1794. 

Phillips Academy has its name from 
its liberal founder, John Phillips, LL. D., 
and has an income of $70,000, with a 
library of six hundred volumes. The 
number of pupils is limited to sixty. 

The Congregational Theological Sem- 
inary at Gilmanton, and the Baptist Ac- 
ademical and Theological Institution at 
New Hampton, are worthy of particular 
notice. The latter has had above three 
hundred pupils at one time. 

Learned Societies. — 'Yhe N. Hamp- 
shire Medical Society was incorporated 
in 1791, and holds an annual meeting 
in Concord on the Tuesday preceding 
the state election. 

The New Hajnpshire Historical So- 
ciety was incorporated in 1823, and has 
published several volumes of collections. 
The annual meeting is on June 17th. 

Government. — The legislative power 
is vested, by the constitution, in a senate 
and house of representatives, which, to- 
gether, are styled the General Court of 
New Hampshire. Every town or incor- 
porated township having one hundred 
and fifty ratable polls may send one rep- 
resentative ; and every three hundred 
additional polls, one. The senate, con- 
sisting of twelve members, is elected by 
the people in districts. The executive 
power is vested in a governor, and a 
council of five members. The governor, 
council, senators, and representatives, are 
elected annually by the people on the 
second Tuesday of March. The gen- 
eral court meets animally (at Concord) 
on the first Wednesday of June, The 
right of suffrage is granted to every male 
inhabitant of age, except paupers, &c. 
The judiciary power is vested in a supe- 
rior court and court of common pleas. 



44 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 




This state is (hstinf^uished among 
the olhei New England states by 
sevoial milked peculiarities. In 
situation, It boideis, on one side, a 
foieign couiitiv, and on another the 
grand loute of noithein invasion, in 
consequence of which its soil has 
been exposed to hostile incursions, 
in the successive wars with the In- 
dians, the French, and the English. 
Its climate is so cold and healthful 
as to give hardihood and vigor to 
the inhabitants ; while it possesses 
so much rich soil, and such abundant 
water-power and facilities for navigation, as to encourage all the arts of life. 
Although circumstances retarded the settlement of the country, and led to unfor- 
tunate dissensions and conflicting claims for the possession, yet the happy adjust- 
ment of all, with New York on one side and New Hampshire on the other, and 
the erection of Vermont into an independent state, gave an impulse to improve- 
ments of every kind, which has produced most extensive and important results. 

Extending from forty-two degrees forty-four minutes to forty-five degrees 
north latitude, and near several lakes, the climate of Vermont would have been 
rigorous in the winter, even if its surface had not been elevated much above the 
ocean level ; but the Green mountain ridge is of such extent and elevation as 
to render the cold season very long and quite severe. The longitude is between 
three degrees thirty-one minutes and five degrees east ; the greatest length of the 
state is one hundred and fifty-seven and a half miles, and the greatest breadth 
ninety miles. The whole area comprehended within the boundaries is 10,200 
square miles. 

The Green mountain ridge forms a marked and natural dividing line between 
the counties of Windham, Windsor, and Orange, on the one side, and Bennington, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



45 



Rutland, and Addison, on the other. In 
all that part of it there is not a single 
passage to be found wide enough for a 
road, nor is its long and uniform eleva- 
tion so much as interrupted by the bed 
of any stream. Five turnpike roads, in- 
deed, pass it in different places, but they 
have been constructed at considerable 
cost and labor, and are very laborious 
to travel, as they rise and descend the 
height of the ridge. 

In the southern part of Washington 
county it divides into two ridges, the 
principal of which borders the counties 
of Chittenden and Franklin on the east, 
and the other, known by the name of 
" The height of lands," strikes off" in a 
northeast direction into the county of 
Caledonia. This keeps a remai'kably 
uniform elevation, and forms the dividing 
line between the waters of the Connec- 
ticut and the two lakes, Champlain and 
Memphremagog. The western ridge is 
cut through by Onion and Lamoille riv- 
ers, although its principal summits are 
the highest in the state. Among these 
is the Camel's Hump ; this ridge con- 
stitutes the grandeur of the scenery so 
much admired along the northeastern 
side of Lake Champlain. 

Mount Ascutney is one of the emi- 
nences most celebrated in Vermont, more 
on account of the beautiful scenery upon 
which it looks down, and its vicinity to 
Windsor, one of the principal and most 
beautiful towns in the state. An excur- 
sion to its summit affords marry fine 
views, as it rises abruptly from the bor- 
ders of the valley of the Connecticut, 
and the path, in its gradual ascent, opens 
to the eye many varying landscapes. 

Not less than twenty-one rivers have 
their sources in the Gi'een mountains, 
of which twelve flow into the Connec- 
ticut, and nine into the two principal 
lakes. From the nature of the country, 
these streams are necessarily short and 
small ; though in the season of floods, 
some of them drain off" great quantities 
of water through their rocky channels. 
No coui\try is better supplied with abun- 
dant and pure springs. The Water of 
Vermont is generally good, except along 
the shore of Lake Champlain, where 
the rocks are of limestone. 



Mineral springs of different kinds are 
found in several counties. Some are 
chalybeate, others sulphurous ; and some 
are resorted to by invalids for the im- 
provement of their health. 

Lakes. — Lake Champlain extends 
along nearly the whole western bound- 
ary of the state, and forms an important 
feature in several respects. It affords 
invaluable advantages of navigation, for 
it is of sufficient uniform depth for 
vessels of considerable size, and forms 
several good harbors ; while the canal 
which connects it with Hudson river 
offers a direct, safe, and cheap channel 
of commerce to the city of New York. 
At the same time, fine steamboats of the 
largest class daily traverse the lake 
through its whole extent, on the grand 
route between the United States and 
Canada, touching at the principaj towns 
along the shore. 

Lake Memphremagog, lying on the 
boundary line of the United States, has 
four or five miles of its southern part in 
Orleans county, Vermont, but its north- 
ern and larger portion in Canada. It 
is about thirty miles long from north to 
south, and three or four miles wide from 
east to west. It is about midway be- 
tween Lake Champlain and Connecticut 
river. Three small rivers — the Clyde, 
Black, and Barton — enter the south part 
of the lake from Vermont. On an island 
two miles above the line are obtained 
the celebrated oilstones, for sharpening 
tools, which are well known throughout 
our country, and highly prized, being 
worth half a dollar a pound. Whet- 
stones, for scythes, &c., are obtained in 
the vicinity of the lake, at the place 
where the gneiss-rocks pass into mica- 
slate. 

In Lake Champlain are a number of 
islands, the largest of which are North 
Hero and South Hero, in the northern 
part and near the shore of Vermont, to 
which they belong. 

North Hero forms a township of the 
same name, in the county of Grand 
Isle. It is twenty-six miles north of 
Burlington, six west of St. Albans, and 
contains 6,272 acres. The first settle- 
ment was made on this island in 1783. 
In 1793 the British erected a block- 



46 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



house on it, which was given up to the 
United States in 1796. The soil is 
good, and there is a small village, four 
school districts, a courthouse, and a jail, 
built of stone. The rocks are of lime- 
stone. 

South Hero is a small island, of 
9,055 acres, twelve miles northwest of 
Burlington, and sixteen southwest of 
St. Albans. The first settlement was 
made here in 1784. In the summer 
season, when the water in the lake is 
low, a passage can often be made by 
fording to Chittenden, on the mainland, 
a sandbar extending the whole distance. 
The surface is level and the soil good, 
being formed of limestone, like that of 
the adjacent shores and islands. Many 
marks remain in them all of the numer- 
ous Indians who formerly resorted to 
them. 

Rivers. — Two or three of the rivers 
of Vermont, viz., those which cross the 
Green mountains, being of considerable 
size, are navigable through most of their 
course in canoes, and communicating, 
by a short carrying-place, with the 
navigable waters of Lake Champlain, 
were as many principal routes of traffic 
and of war for the Canadian Indians, 
on their way to the Connecticut rivei*. 
When the English first visited the latter 
stream, they found the savages on its 
banks, as low down as Hartford, had a 
trade in furs, &c., with those who in- 
habited the shores of Lake Champlain 
and the St. Lawrence, which was car- 
ried on by the channels just indicated. 
At later periods, when the Jesuits, who 
occupied Montreal and other places in 
Canada, as lords of the manor, incited 
and directed the fanaticism of the In- 
dians against the eastern colonies, these 
same routes were used in the secret, 
and often unexpected and bloody, incur- 
sions which were so numerous in the 
French wars. 

Onion River is seventy miles long. 
Rising in Cabot, Caledonia county, it 
runs south, then southwest, and finally 
northwest, falling into Lake Champlain, 
passing through Washington and Chit- 
tenden counties, five miles below Bur- 
lington. The principal branches are 
Dog, Steven's, North, Mad, Waterbury, 



and Huntington rivers. Many scenes 
along the course of the Onion and some 
of its tributaries are peculiarly wild and 
i-omantic. Its highest branch has a fall 
of five hundred feet, almost perpendic- 
ular; and at Bolton is a remarkable 
chasm, cut by the stream into the solid 
rocks, sixty feet wide, thirty feet deep, 
and two hundred and seventy yards 
long, where the descent is so rapid that 
the stream rushes through with great 
rapidity. Four miles below Waterbury 
is a spot, where a wall of rock rises on 
one side to the height of one hundred 
feet, and large fragments have fallen 
down, and lie in such a manner as to 
form a bridge. Three quarters of a 
mile above the falls, an artificial bridge 
commands a striking view, upon a place 
where the channel of the river is sev- 
enty feet wide and sixty-five feet deep. 
A fine turnpike-road now leads through 
the mountains from this stream to White 
river and Royalton. 

This was the principal Indian route 
to the Connecticut ; and many captives, 
as well as loads of plunder, were in for- 
mer times carried by this route, from 
the New England fi'ontier villages, by 
war parties retufning to Canada. The 
water-power on this river is very great. 
It is mostly of little depth, as might be 
expected from its shortness and its small 
supply of water. It is, however, use- 
ful in navigation. Lake vessels can en- 
ter the river and sail up five miles, and 
boats forty. 

Two of the earliest and most spirited 
military measures taken in the revolu- 
tionary war were perfonned by a few 
men from Vermont, at important points 
just beyond the bounds of this state. 
We allude to the surprise of the two 
great fortresses on Lake Champlain, 
Ticonderoga and Crown Point. These 
positions are very peculiar. The lake 
at these two points, about twelve miles 
apart, is very narow and crooked ; and 
the two fortresses were so placed as 
to completely command the passage. 
The guns, which were numerous and 
heavy, were mounted on strong Avails, 
scientifically planned by accomplished 
British engineers, and constructed wuh 
e:reat streng;th, of the limestone abound- 



ing along the shores ; while deep ditches, 
in some places cut far down into solid 
rocks, offered almost insurmountable 
obstacles to an approach. Lying on 
the very borders of this state, with some 
of their outworks actually erected upon 
the Vermont side of the lake, and owing 
their capture, as they did, chiefly to 
Vermont men, a Brief description of 
Ticonderoga and Crown Point may with 
propriety be here introduced, being ex- 
tremely interesting to all interested in 
the war for independence. 

Mount Independence is a hill on the 
Vermont side, of comparatively small 
elevation east of Mount Defiance, and 
separated from it by the lake, which has 
here redv^ced its size to that of a small 
river. On a bank just above the water 
are the remains of a zigzag battery for 
about forty or fifty guns, running across 
a little cornfield behind a house, and 
making five or six angles. The Horse- 
shoe battery is traceable on an elevation 
about a quarter of a mile in the rear. 
A bridge once connected Ticonderoga 
with Mount Defiance, the buttresses of 
which are remaining, to the great an- 
noyance of the navigators of the lake. 
On the west shore (near the stone store- 
house), Arnold, when pursued by the 
British, caused his flotilla to be run on 
shore. These hulks remain almost as 
sound as when first stranded. A firty- 
two pounder is said to have ranged from 
the Horse-shoe over this channel (now 
mai'ked by a buoy) and the fortress. 

After the revolutionary war, about 
five hundred cannon were lying about 
the fortress, lines, &c., many of them as 
left by the English, with their trunnions 
knocked oft". A twenty-four pounder 
was taken to the forge at Fairhaven, 
some years ago, and discharged by the 
heat, after lying loaded for above twenty- 
years, and a considerable time at the 
bottom of the lake. 

The view from Ticonderoga down 
Lake Champlain is very pleasant. It 
abounds, the greater part of the way to 
Canada, with fine natural scenes. 

The Fortress of Ticonderoga. — This 
famous old fortress, or rather its re- 
mains, are overlooked from Mount In- 
dependence. An elevated piece of land, 



gently sloping toward the south, and 
ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, 
appears partially covered with trees, 
and crowned near its extremity with a 
cluster of broken walls and chimneys. 

The old French Lines, where General 
Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, are 
the only part of the fortification which 
was ever the scene of a battle. They 
commenced on the east side, at a battery 
of heavy cannon on the shore, about a 
quarter of a mile south of the ferry. 
The remains of the breastwork can yet 
be seen. The lines were drawn in a 
zigzag ; first stretching off" to the right, 
along the side of marshy ground, to a 
cluster of bushes where was a battery; 
and then to the left to the verge of a 
wood, where was another. 

Their course may be distinctly traced 
in this manner across the ridge of land 
at its highest elevation, over to the brow 
of a steep bank, looking toward the out- 
let of Lake George. The woods which 
now so much interrupt the sight have 
grown since the evacuation of the for- 
tress, after the revolutionary war. 

The fortress is of an angular form, 
and embraces a large tract of ground, 
being divided into parts by deep ditches. 
The walls were originally much higher 
than at present, being raised by supei'- 
structures of logs filled in with earth. 

The Barracks formed an oblong, and 
the walls still remain of all except those 
on the eastern side ; their form is plainly 
distinguishable. The parade is fifty- 
two and a half yards long, and eight in 
breadth. The barracks, &c., the walls 
of which remain on the north, south, 
and west sides, are built of the rough 
blue limestone of which the neighbor- 
ing rocks are formed, two stories high ; 
and these with the chimneys, several of 
which are standing, are the piincipal 
objects seen from a distance. The en- 
trances to this courtyard, or parade, are 
between the buildings, and quite nar- 
row. By the southern entrance, Ethan 
Allen entered with his eighty-three raw 
soldiers when he surprised the fortress 
on the 18th May, 1775; and on reach- 
ing the coui'tyard and calling on the 
commander to surrender, the British 
officer. Captain Deplace, made his ap- 



48 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



pearance at a window and submitted, 
delivering up three officers and forty- 
four rank and file. In consequence of 
this coup-de-main, this important place 
was in the hands of the Americans until 
the arrival of Burgoyne in 1777. 

The troops in the garrison had be- 
come loose disciplinarians. A body of 
men had been despatched from Con- 
necticut to surprise the place, and ap- 
proached upon the opposite shore, but 
were unprovided with a conveyance to 
the intended point of their enterprise. 
A countryman, who had been in the 
habit of frequently visiting the fort, 
was made acquainted with their views, 
crossed the lake by'daylight, went care- 
fully into the fort, and observed in what 
part of the parade-ground the arms 
were stacked. Being almost domicil- 
iated by the frequency of his previous 
visits, he lounged away his time until 
night approached. He then possessed 
himself of a large bateau owned by the 
gaiTison, and recrossed the lake. Allen, 
having joined the band, embarked, "ef- 
fected a landing about one mile north 
of the foi"t, and proceeded across the 
meadows, shrouded by the night, and 
made good their daring enterprise, by 
threatening the sentry, and taking im- 
mediate possession of the firearms, as 
pointed out by their avant-courier. 

The battlements of Ticonderoga first 
bore the flag of independence. This 
circumstance should, of itself, render 
this ruin, so fine in other associations, 
interesting to the traveller. 

At each corner was a bastion or a 
demi-bastion; and under that in the 
northeastern one is a subterranean mag- 
azine. The cellars south of this, which 
belonged to the demolished buildings, 
and are almost filled up, have a room or 
two with fireplaces still distinguishable. 

The Grenadiers' battery is situated 
on a rocky point toward the east from 
the main fortress. They were connected 
by a covered way, the traces of which 
are distinctly visible. . 

On a spot formerly occupied as the 
king's garden Mr. Pell has a fine gar- 
den, abounding in the choicest fruits 
imported from Europe, and transported 
from the celebrated nurseries of Long, 



Island. Mr. Pell has been a very suc- 
cessful propagator of the locust-tree 
{robinia pseudo acacia of Linnaeus), 
thousands of which are growing on these 
grounds in the most flourishing manner; 
here is also the magnolia grandijlora, 
never before cultivated in so high a lat- 
itude ; the horse-chestnut [castanea equi- 
nus) ; and upward of seventy varieties 
of the gooseberry from Europe. Here, 
also, we find the beautiful catalpa, and 
the liriodcndron tulipifera. 

On the neighboring Vei-mont shore, 
there are still some slight remains of 
Burgoyne's intrenchments. . 

From Mount Independence the vis- 
iter enjoys, in fine weather, a delightful 
view of the lake and the surrounding 
country. On the left is the outlet of 
Lake George, winding through a dark 
and narrow valley, and spreading out to 
embrace an island of the brightest ver- 
dure ; while more immediately under 
the eye lies the fortress of Ticonderoga, 
and the lake, stretching far away to the 
north. 

Blount Defiance rises on the left, 
about eight hundred feet high, on the 
summit of which General Burgoyne's 
troops showed themselves on the morn- 
ing of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of 
heavy cannon, which they had drawn up 
along the ridge by night, and planted 
in that commanding position, whence 
they could count the men in the fort. 
The distance to the summit in a straight 
line is about a mile, so that the defence 
of, Ticonderoga would have been im- 
possible ; and on the firing of a few 
shots by the British upon a vessel in 
the lake, which proved the range of 
their guns, the Americans made prep- 
arations to evacuate the place, and ef- 
fected their reti-eat to the shore below 
duriner the nij^ht. 

The shores are in this part strewed 
with the fragments of blue limestone- 
rock with organic remains. 

The immediate shores are generally 
low all the way to Crown Point, where 
the lake suddenly turns to the west at a 
right angle, and, at the distance of a 
mile, as suddenly to the north again. 
A low stretch of land covered with a 
young forest, on the left, conceals the 



approach to this ancient fortress, which, 
for position as well as appearance and 
history, may be called the twin sister 
of Ticonderoga. 

Chimney point is on the north side 
of the lake, opposite Crown Point, to 
which is a ferry three quarters of a mile. 
The Fortress of Croivn Point. — There 
are several old works thrown up along 
the shore, with little bays between them. 
The easternmost one is called the Gi'en- 
adiers' battery ; the middle one is the 
original old French fort of 1731, and 
now encloses a garden ; and that fur- 
ther west is an outwork to a bastion of 
the fortress. The fortress is situated 
about a quarter of a mile back from the 
shore, and appears much like Ticonder- 
oga from a distance, showing the walls 
and chimneys of the old barracks, and 
walls of earth surrounding them. In 
regard to its plan, however, it is mate- 
rially different. The fortress of Crown 
Point was a star work, being in the 
form of a pentagon, with bastions at the 
angles, and a strong redoubt at the dis- 
tance of two hundred and fifty or three 
hundred yards in advance of each of 
them. The fortress is surrounded by a 
ditch walled in with stone, except where 
it has been blasted into the solid rock 
of blue limestone (as is the case in many 
parts, from five to twenty-five feet), and 
even into quartz-rock which underlays 
it. Univalve shells are found in the 
limestone-rock, frequently four inches in 
diameter. The walls are about twenty 
or twenty-five feet high, and there is a 
convenient path running entirely round 
upon the top, interrupted only by the 
gates at the north and south sides. Al- 
though much shaded by tall sumacs, 
some fine views are enjoyed in making 
the circuit, which is not far short of 
half a mile. 

Opposite the north gate is a small 
ledge of rocks, and, close by, the remains 
of a covered way to the lake shore. On 
entering the fortress, the stranger finds 
himself in a level, spacious area, bound- 
ed on the left and in front by long ruin- 
ous buildings of stone, two stories high, 
and the first two hundred and twenty 
feet long, while the ruins of similar 
ones are seen on two sides on the rig^ht. 



This parade is about five hundred feet 
in length. The place was surprised by 
Colonel Warner in 1775. 

The view from the walls toward the 
north is very fine : looking down the 
lake, which widens at the distance of 
two or three miles, you have Chimney 
point on the right, and two other points 
projecting beyond the distant peak, called 
Camel's Hump. Ranges of mountains 
on the western shore, beginning at the 
distance of eighteen miles, including- 
Bald peak, gradually approach till they 
form a near and bold boundary to the 
lake on the left, scattered with cleared 
farms and houses, and then stretching 
away to the south, terminate in the 
mountain behind. This elevation, al- 
though it seems almost as well calcu- 
lated to command Crown Point as Mount 
Defiance does Ticonderoga, is not less 
than four miles distant. 

Everything about this old fortress 
bears the marks of ruin. Two mao-a- 

o 

zmes were blown up ; the timbers in 
the south barracks are burnt black ; a 
portion of the shingled roof which re- 
mains serves to cover a liltle hay-mow 
and the nests of robins ; while some of 
the entrances and other parts are fenced 
up for a sheepfold. The ground around 
it is much covered with fragments of 
blasted rocks, and, particularly at the 
south, with the ruins of old buildings. 
The trees which are seen have grown 
since the evacuation of the place ; and 
on one of the angles is an inscription 
of the date of the fortress, 1756, when 
it was constructed on a greatly-enlarged 
plan, by General Amherst, at an expense 
of c£2,000,000 sterling. 

Naval Action on Lake ChampT.ain,'\n 
1776. — After the unfortunate termina- 
tion of the expedition against Quebec, 
and retreat of the American troops to 
Crown Point and Ticonderoga, the Brit- 
ish forces under General Carleton began 
to collect a formidable flotilla at St. 
John, for the purpose of making their 
way over the lake. Some of these ves- 
sels were constructed at Quebec, or 
Montreal, in such a manner that they 
could be taken to pieces, transported 
over land to the lake, and the parts 
there united and soon made ready for 



50 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



service. Active preparations were im- 
mediately commenced on the part of 
the Americans to put afloat a sufficient 
force to meet the enemy, and baffle their 
movements. General Arnold, who, as 
is well known, had been a sailor in his 
youth, was appointed to the command ; 
and, under his direction, a squadron — 
consisting of two sloops, three schoon- 
ers, three galleys, and eight gondolas — 
was in a short time ready to sail. The 
sloops carried twelve guns, the schoon- 
ers from eight to twelve, and the galleys 
and gondolas from three to twelve each. 

Having received his instructions from 
General Gates, who had command of the 
army in that quarter, he sailed down the 
lake, and, when within a few miles of the 
Isle-aux-Tetes, discovered it to be occu- 
pied by the enemy. At Windmill point 
he moored his vessels across the lake, 
so as to prevent the enemy from pas- 
sing. The decks of his vessels being 
very low, Arnold sent a party of men 
on shore to cut fascines, for the purpose 
of erecting around them barricades, to 
prevent their being boarded by superior 
numbers in small craft. While engaged 
in this service, they were fired upon by 
the Indians, and three of their number 
killed and six wounded. Finding his 
position too much exposed, he returned 
eight or ten miles to Isle-la-Motte, and 
took a more advantageous station. He 
here received information of the formi- 
dable fleet fitting out at St. John ; and, 
deeming it unadvisable to hazard an ac- 
tion where he would be compelled to 
engage a superior force under great 
disadvantage, he withdrew still further 
back, and anchored the fleet in a line 
between Valcour island and the western 
shoi'e of the lake. 

Early in the morning of the 11th of 
October, the guardboats gave notice that 
the enemy's fleet was in sight, off" Cum- 
berland head, moving up the lake. It 
soon appeared advancing around the 
southern point of Valcour island, and 
presented a formidable aspect, there 
being one ship with three masts, two 
schooners, a I'adeau, one gondola, twenty 
gunboats, four longboats, and forty-four 
boats with provisions and troops. The 
armed vessels were manned by several 



hundred chosen seamen. Such an array 
was enough to convince the Americans 
that they must rely mainly on their 
bravery and the advantages of their po- 
sition. The wind was likewise in their 
favor, as some of the larger vessels could 
not beat up sufficiently near to engage 
in the attack. While the enemy's fleet 
was coming round the island, Arnold 
had ordered his three galleys, and a 
schooner called the Royal Savage, to 
get under way and advance upon the 
enemy. On their return to the line, the 
schooner grounded and was afterward 
destroyed, but the men were saved. 

At half-past twelve o'clock the action 
became general and very warm, the 
British having brought all their gun- 
boats and one schooner within musket- 
shot of the American line. They kept 
up a heavy fire of round and grapeshot, 
till five o'clock, when they withdrew 
from the contest, and joined the ship 
and schooner, which a head wind had 
prevented from coming into action. 

During the contest, Arnold was on 
board the Congress galley, which suf- 
fered severely. It received seven shot 
between wind and watei', was hulled 
twelve times, the mainmast was wound- 
ed in two places, the rigging cut in 
pieces, and the proportion of killed and 
wounded was unusually great. So de- 
ficient was the fleet in gunners, that 
Arnold himself pointed almost every 
gun that was fired from his vessel. The 
Washington galley was equally shat- 
tered, the first lieutenant was killed, 
and the captain and master wounded. 
All the officers of one of the gondolas, 
except the captain, were lost, and an- 
other gondola sunk soon after the en- 
gagement. The whole number of killed 
and wounded was about sixty. The 
enemy landed a large body of Indians, 
who kept up an incessant fire of mus- 
ketry from the island and the opposite 
shore, but without effecting much in- 
jury. 

A consultation was held by the officers 
as soon as the engagement was over, 
and they agreed, that, considering the 
exhausted state of their ammunition, and 
the great superiority of the enemy's 
force both in ships and men, prudence 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



51 



required them to return to Crown Point, 
and if possible without risking another 
attack. The British had anchored their 
vessels in a line within a few hundred 
yards of the Americans, stretching from 
the island to the main, apparently to 
frustrate any such design. The night 
was dark, but a favoring breeze blew 
from the north, and before morning 
Arnold had passed with his whole fleet 
through the British line entirely undis- 
covered. This manoeuvre was not less 
bold in its execution than extraordinary 
in its success. Arnold himself brought 
up the rear in his crippled galley, and, 
before their departure was known to 
the enemy, they had ascended the lake 
ten or twelve miles to Schuyler's island. 
Here they were obliged to cast anchor 
for half a day, in order to stop the leaks 
and repair their sails. Two of the gon- 
dolas were abandoned and sunk. In 
the afternoon they set sail again ; but 
the wind had died away in the morning, 
and it now sprung up from the south, 
equally retarding the pursuit of the en- 
emy and their own progress. 

On the morning of the second day 
the scene was chansred. The Conofress 
and Washington galleys, with four gon- 
dolas, had fallen in the rear, all being 
too much disabled to sail freely. The 
advanced ships of the enemy's fleet, in 
one of which was General Carleton, 
were found to be gaining upon them, 
under a press of sail, and in a short 
time were alongside. After receiving a 
few broadsides, the Washington struck, 
having been extremely weakened by 
the loss of men and injury received in 
the fli'st engagement. The whole force 
of the attack now fell upon Arnold in 
the Congress galley. A ship of eighteen 
guns, a schooner of fourteen, and another 
of twelve, poured forth an unceasing fire 
within musket-shot. The contest was 
kept up with unparalleled resolution for 
four hours, when the galley was reduced 
almost to a wreck, and was surrounded 
by seven sail of the enemy. In this 
situation, Arnold ran the galley and the 
four gondolas into a small creek, on the 
east side of the lake, about ten miles 
from Crown Point ; and as soon as they 
were aground and were set on fire, he 



ordered the marines to leap into the 
water armed with muskets, wade to the 
beach, and station themselves in such a 
manner on the bank as to prevent the 
approach of the enemy's small boats. 
He was the last man that remained on 
board, nor did he leave his galley till 
the fire had made such progress that it 
could not be extinguished. The flags 
were kept flying, and he maintained his 
attitude of defence on the shore till he 
saw them consumed, and the whole of 
his flotilla enveloped in flames. There 
are few instances on record of more 
deliberate courage and gallantry than 
were displayed by him, from the begin- 
ning to the end of this action. 

Being no longer in a condition to op- 
pose the enemy, he proceeded imme- 
diately through the woods with his men 
to Crown Point, and fortunately escaped 
an attack from the Indians, who waylaid 
the path two hours after he had passed. 
The same night he arrived at Ticon- 
deroga. All his clothes, papers, and 
baggage, had been burned in the Royal 
Savage at Valcour island. He found 
at Ticonderoga the remnant of his fleet, 
being two schooners, two galleys, one 
sloop, and one gondola. General Water- 
bury, who commanded the Washington 
galley, and one hundred and ten prison- 
ers, were returned on parole by General 
Carleton the day after the last action. 
The whole American loss in killed and 
wounded was between eighty and ninety. 
The enemy reported theirs to be about 
forty. 

Notwithstanding the signal failure of 
this enterprise, the valor and goo'd con- 
duct of the commander and his officers 
were themes of applause throughout 
the country. 

Rutland. — This is the capital of 
Rutland county, and is fifty miles south- 
west of Montpelier, sixty south of Bur- 
lington, and fifty-two northeast of Ben- 
nington. The first settlement was made 
in this township about the year 1770 ; 
and in the revolutionary war two small 
picket forts were built, one near the 
present courthouse in the east village. 
Otter creek flows through the township 
from south to north, and it receives two 
of its tributaries here. West river and 



52 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



East creek, on which are several manu- 
factories. Iron, limestone, and clay, are 
found in different places, the rocks being 
partly primitive, and partly secondary. 
Quarries of blue and black marble are 
wrought in the limestone range which 
passes from Berkshire county, Massa- 
chusetts, through a great part of Ver- 
mont. The principal village is in the 
eastern part, and contains several public 
buildings, particularly a coui'thouse. 

Burlington. — This town, the capital 
of Chittenden county, and the chief 
place of trade in the state, enjoys a fine 
situation on an excellent harbor of Lake 
Champlain, from the level of which it 
rises, up a bold and considerable emi- 
nence, making a beautiful display toward 
the water. The streets present a pleas- 
ant aspect, containing many neat and 
elegant residences, with fine gardens, 
abounding with flowers and fruits in 
their season. The inhabitants are dis- 
tinguished by intelligence, taste, and 
enterprise, and are extensively engaged 
in trade, manufactures, and navigation, 
which is carried on both in steamboats, 
schooners, and vessels adapted to pass 
through the Champlain canal to Albany. 

The county buildings, academy, bank, 
and various churches, are the principal 
public buildings in the town ; while the 
edifices of the Vermont university crown 
the summit of the eminence. Pop. 5,500. 

A manufacturing village, of consider- 
able size, lies one mile and a half north- 
east from the town, on the bank of 
Onion river, about five miles from its 
mouth. 

The settlement of Burlington, which 
was commenced a little before the rev- 
olution, was interrupted and delayed by 
the war, since which, and especially 
since the opening of the Champlain ca- 
nal and the establishment of steam nav- 
igation on the lake, its increase has been 
rapid. Limestone and iron ore are ob- 
tained in the vicinity, but the soil is gen- 
erally poor, excepting a rich alluvial 
tract of land below the falls of Onion 
river. Southwest of the town hard tim- 
ber abounds, and pine prevails in a 
region lying on the northeast. Among 
the branches of manufacture is that of 
glass. 



77ie University of Vermont. — This 
institution, situated at Burlington, was 
incorporated in the year 1791, but did 
not go into operation until 1800. The 
three college buildings are situated on 
a fine elevation about a mile from the 
lake, east of the town, commanding a 
very extensive and agreeable view of 
both, two hundred and forty-five feet 
above the water. The first edifice, which 
was built in 1801, was destroyed by fire 
in 1824. Two of the present buildings 
are devoted to the accommodation of 
students, and the third is used as the 
chapel and for other public purposes. 

The institution is endowed with lands 
reserved in all the townships, except 
those granted by New Hampshire, the 
income of which is increasing, and must 
hereafter become very large. Money 
has been furnished by the legislature 
and by liberal subscriptions. 

The corporation consists of seventeen 
members, including the governor, the 
speaker of the house of representatives, 
and the president of the university. 

Rev. Daniel C. Sanders was appointed 
president in 1800, Rev. Samuel Austin 
in 1816, Rev. Daniel Haskell in 1821, 
Rev. Willard Preston in 1824, Rev. Jas. 
Marsh in 1826. 

Commencement is held on the first 
Wednesday in August, and the vaca- 
tions, one four weeks from that time, 
and the other eight weeks from the first 
Wednesday in January. The annual 
expense for room, rent, and tuition, is 
twenty-five dollars. 

The Medical Department of the insti- 
tution affords lectures during fourteen 
weeks from the first Monday after com- 
mencent, the fees for which are twenty- 
five dollars, contingent bill three dollars, 
and graduation fee fifteen dollars. 

MoNTPELiER, the capital of Vermont 
and seat of justice of Washington county, 
is thirty-six miles southeast of Burling- 
ton, one hundred and forty northwest of 
Boston, five hundred and twenty-four 
north by east of Washington, and one 
hundred and twenty southeast of Mon- 
treal. It stands at the confluence of the 
two branches of Onion river, and ha^ a 
remarkably wild and romantic situation, 
in the midst of high and rugged hills. 



54 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



It contains the statehouse, a courthouse, 
the jail, academy, bank, several churches, 
and a variety of manufactories. 

The Statehouse is in a fine situation, 
fronting on State street, from w^hich it 
is distant three hundred and twenty-five 
feet. A spacious gateway opens into 
an ample courtyard, across which leads 
a pathway of pounded granite, seventy- 
two feet wide, to three successive ter- 
races, the ascent to which, by a few 
steps, gradually surmounts the elevation 
of thirty-two feet above the sti-eet. The 
main building has a front of seventy-two 
feet, with two wings thiity-nine feet 
each ; making an entire front of one 
hundred and fifty feet. The main build- 
ing, including the portico, is one hun- 
dred feet deep, and the wings fifty. Six 
granite Doric columns, thirty-six feet 
high, and six feet in diameter at the base, 
support the portico. The walls of gran- 
ite, from Barre, nine miles distant, are 
well cut; the roof and dome are cov- 
ered with copper. The entrance hall 
is thirty-two by thirty-eight feet, four- 
teen feet high, with six Ionic granite 
columns. 

The representatives' hall is sixty-sev- 
en feet by fifty-seven, and thirty-one feet 
high. The senate-chamber is oval, forty- 
four feet by thirty, and twenty-two feet 
high. The governor's room and other 
apartments are commodious and in good 
taste. 

The expense of the whole, including 
the iron railing ai'ound the yard, was 
$132,000, of which the citizens contrib- 
uted $15,000. Pop. ,4,500. 

Windsor, of which we have spoken 
before, is one of the most important 
towns in the state, as well as one of the 
most beautiful, both in appearance and 
situation. It occupies a fine piece of 
ground, which rises, by two graceful 
swells, from the western bank of Con- 
necticut river, shut in on all sides by su- 
perior eminences, especially on the New 
Hampshire side, where the shore is 
steep and mountainous, and on the west, 
where the noble Ascutney, or the Two 
Brothers, 3,320 feet higher than the 
ocean, forms the background of the pic- 
ture. Though about four miles distant, 
its sides and peak appear near at hand. 



and add a feature to the scenery which 
few landscapes can boast. 

Windsor is fifty-five miles south of 
Montpelier, fifty-five northeast of Bur- 
lington, ninety-five northwest of Boston, 
and four hundred and twenty nearly 
north of Washington. The surface of 
the township, though hilly, is rich and 
well cultivated. The first settlement 
was made here in 1764. The principal 
street is crooked, but adorned with sev- 
eral handsome public and private build- 
ings, the stateprison in the south part ; 
and a bridge crosses the Connecticut. 

Bennington. — This is a frontier town, 
on the borders of New York, with a 
hilly surface, rich in iron mines, which 
supply considerable furnaces and forges. 
The village stands upon a conspicuous 
eminence, and contains a court and an 
academy. The place derives its name 
from Governor Benning Wentworth, 
from whom it received its charter in 
1749. The settlement was commenced 
in 1761, by separatists, under Samuel 
Robinson. They were the first of the 
inhabitants who resisted the authorities 
of New York, and drove them from the 
soil, denying her jurisdiction. 

A range of limestone crosses Ben- 
nington county, which has been worked 
for some years, and yields good marble 
of several different colors and qualities. 
Some lead is also found. 

The Battle of Bennington was an ac- 
tion of considerable importance, though 
fought by a detachment of the British 
army on the one side, and the militia of 
Vermont and the neighboring counties 
of Massachusetts on the other. It was 
brought about in consequence of Gen- 
eral Burgoyne's despatching a strong 
body of Hessians, under Colonel Baum, 
to seize a large supply of American pro- 
visions collected at Bennington. Bur- 
goyne was at that time-— viz., in the 
summer of 1777 — preparing to move 
down the Hudson for Albany, and was 
occupied, from July 28 to August 15, in 
transporting bateaux, provisions, artil- 
lery, and baggage, from Whitehall (then 
called Skeenesbourgh) and Fort George 
to the Hudson. Many obstacles were 
in his way, General Schuyler, while on 
his retreat from Ticonderoga, having 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



55 



thrown trees into Wood creek, and left 
much to be done in clearing the chan- 
nel of that stream, and in constructing 
a log road across the sandy region, for 
the transportation of the British artil- 
lery ; while the European troops showed 
great want of skill in operations so foi'- 
eigp to their habits. 

Colonel Baum set off for Bennington 
with five hundred regular troops, a num- 
ber of Canadians, above one hundred 
Indians, and a few tories ; while Lieu- 
tenant Colonel Brayman took post at 
Battenkill, with his Brunswick grena- 
diers, light infantry, and chasseurs, to 
support him if necessary. 

General Stark first received informa- 
tion of the enemy's approach on the 
13th of August ; but at first was aware 
only of the small body of Indians, and 
sent an equal number of Americans to 
meet them, under the command of 
Colonel Greg. Near night, however, 
he was apprized that the force was 
large, when he called out his whole 
brigade, and sent an express to Man- 
chester to inform Colonel Warner of 
the danger, while he ordered the news 
to be spread in all directions. The 
next morning he marched, and soon met 
his advance on their retreat, pursued 
by the enemy, then only a mile in the 
rear. The Americans were immediately 
drawn up for battle ; on seeing which, 
the enemy halted at a commanding po- 
sition, but made no demonstration of a 
further advance, thinking it prudent to 
send back for a reinforcement. Eager 
for the contest, the American sharp- 
shooters pressed the enemy with skir- 
mishes, and succeeded in killing and 
wounding about thirty, including two 
Indian chiefs, without suffering any loss 
themselves. 

To secure a better position. General 
Stark retired to more favorable ground, 
about a mile in his rear ; and the fol- 
lowing day, which was stormy, was 
spent in skirmishing. The battle be- 
gan the following afternoon. Colonel 
Symonds having arrived with some 
militia from Berkshire county, Mass. 
The enemy had by this time fortified 
themselves on a branch of Hoosick i-iver, 
and were attacked according to a plan 



adopted by a council of war, which was 
designed to take them in the rear of 
both flanks, while an advance was made 
on their front to occupy their attention. 
Colonel Nichols, with two hundred men, 
marched for their left — Colonel Herrick, 
with three hundred, for their right ; 
while one hundred men marched toward 
the centre of their line, and two hun- 
dred more, under Colonels Hubbard 
and Stickney, marched against the right. 
The first two detachments were to unite 
in the enemy's rear, and then fall upon 
them together. The Indians fled at the 
onset, but the rest of the enemy's troops 
stood their ground for two hours, when, 
after an unsuccessful attempt by the Ger- 
man dragoons to cut their way through 
with their swords, all their works were 
carried, and the whole body, with but 
few exceptions, were either killed or 
taken prisoners. Baum received a mor- 
tal wound. 

The victory was so complete, that the 
Americans, supposing all was over, be- 
gan to disperse, when General Stark 
was apprized of another large force ap- 
proaching in front. Happily, Colonel 
Warner arrived at the moment with a 
reinforcement of Vermont regulars, who, 
without loss of time, pressed on to en- 
counter the enemy; General Stark soon 
followed, with all the militia he could 
muster; and an t)bstinate engagement 
ensued, which terminated at sunset, by 
the rout and pursuit of the invaders. 
The approach of darkness alone saved 
the greater part of the fugitives, who 
left behind two cannon and many wound- 
ed and prisoners. 

The whole amount of the enemy's 
loss in these actions was two hundred 
and seven killed, an unknown number 
wounded, and about seven hundi'ed pris- 
oners; four brass fieldpieces, twelve base- 
drums, two hundred and fifty dragoon 
swords, and four ammunition wagons. 
The American loss was only thirty killed 
and forty wounded. 

The principal advantage secured by 
this victory, however, was in the cour- 
age with which it inspired the army and 
the people, who had been exceedingly 
depressed by the evacuation of the for- 
tress of Ticonderoga, and the undis- 



56 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



puted progress of Burgoyne onward 
toward Albany. The resistance which 
he met with, a few days after, at Bemis's 
heights, on the west bank of the Hud- 
son, is supposed to have been rendered 
more spirited and successful by this 
great advantage, gained by the Vermont 
regulars and irregular troops, assisted 
by their hold and hardy neighbors. 

The supreme court has five judges, 
annually chosen by the legislature. The 
county courts, likewise, have the same 
number, two being chosen by the legis- 
lature every year in each county, the 
third and chief being one of the su- 
preme judges on the circuit. The coun- 
ty courts are held twice a year. The 
justices of the peace, also, are appoint- 
ed by the legislature. 

The first newspaper in Vermont was 
the " Vermont Gazette, or Green Moun- 
tain Newsboy," published at Westmin- 
ster in 1781 by Judah Paddock Spooner 
and Timothy Green. Two years after, 
their press was removed to Windsor. 
In 1810, the number of newspapers in 
the state was ten; in 1828, twenty-one ; 
and in 1834, twenty-six. 

The Battle of Piatt shurgh. — This was 
one of the most decisive and important 
engagements in the war of 1812; and 
like several others which we have no- 
ticed, although not fought on the soil of 
Vermont, was one in which many of the 
people of this state were engaged, and 
in the results of which multitudes of 
them were personally and most deeply 
interested. Having given the particu- 
lars of the naval battle of the same date 
in our description of New York, and 
not having had space for the following 
account of the battle on land, we may 
with propriety introduce it in this place. 

Three points of our extensive country 
appeared to the English to be fatally 
vulnerable. First, the outlet of the Mis- 
sissippi, against which Pakenham was 
to lead an army of veterans ; second, 
Washington — the seat of government — 
whei-e in August, 1814, General Ross, 
at the head of his victorious legions, 
spread fire and sword ; and lastly. Lake 
Champlain — the great highway of in- 
vasion to the most densely-populated 
portion of the Union — where Sir George 



Provost, renowned for skill and valor on 
many a battle-field, was to lead the 
largest division of the formidable troops 
of Wellington. 

On the 4th September, 14,000 troops, 
with their splendid uniform, and fault- 
less discipline, and admirable bands, 
and waving banners, and formidable 
trains of artillery, having crossed the 
lines and marshalled at Champlain, took 
up their line of march for Plattsburgh. 
There was one regiment of these veter- 
ans, in which there was scarcely a man 
who did not bear a wound, and their 
disfigured faces, and ferocious and de- 
termined aspect, reminded one of the 
hundred desperate charges of the san- 
guinary conflicts of the peninsular war. 

At Plattsburgh about one thousand 
regular soldiers under the command of 
General M'Comb, and some seven hun- 
dred militia under General Moore, were 
prepared to oppose the enemy. The 
nation, saddened and oppressed by the 
then recent sacking of Washington, and 
aware of the tremendous force of her 
formidable foe, looked with deep anx- 
iety and alarm to the issue of the con- 
test at this important point. 

On Monday, September 5, 1814, the 
British army having advanced to Chazy 
and found the state-road guaided by 
Colonel Appling's rifle corps intrenched 
at Dead creek, aided by a troop of horse 
commanded by Captain Safford and 
Lieutenant Standish, they crossed to the 
Beekmantown road, and encamped du- 
ring the night three or four miles north 
of the Burdick house at Beekmantown. !j 
The militia commanded by Gener.i] \\ 
Moore, and composed of Colonel Miller's 
regiment, a part of Colonel Joiner's I'egi- 
ment. Major Sanford's battalion, and the 
thirty-seventh regiment, from Essex, 
spent the night at Beekmantown. Be 
tween 9 and 10 o'clock at night. Gen 
eral Moore sent Major R. H. Walworth 
to the quarters of General M'Comb, 
who commanded at the forts, with a 
request that he would send a small body 
of infantry and a couple of pieces of 
light artillery, to support the militia in 
the attack which he intended to make 
on the British forces on their advance 
in the morning. Major Walworth ar- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VERMONT. 



57 



rived at General M'Comb's quarters 
about midnight, and the general imme- 
diately ordered a detachment of two 
hundred and fifty infantry under Major 
John E. Wool, who had previously and 
urgently requested such a command, and 
two pieces of light artillery under Cap- 
tain Luther Leonard, to be ready by 
daylight to start for Beekmantown. 

Major Walworth took a party of vol- 
unteers from Captain Atwood's company 
and those of Captains Cochran and 
Manley, marched rapidly on the bridge, 
and had just commenced taking off the 
plank, when the advanced guard of the 
enemy emerged from the woods within 
half musket-shot, and fired upon the 
party taking up the bridge, two of whiMn, 
belonging to Atwood's company, were 
severely wounded and taken prisoners. 

Major Walworth and his detachment 
immediately fell back to the position 
occupied by Major Wool, who, forming 
in the highway and flanked by the militia, 
opened a deadly fire upon the head of 
the British column, then just in front of 
Ira Howe's house, and momentarily ar- 
rested its progress. Here several of 
the enemy were killed, and Lieutenant 
West, of the Buffs, and twenty privates, 
severely wounded. Very soon the mi- 
litia broke and mostly retreated in con- 
fusion. Many, however, remained with 
the regulai's to contest the ground, inch 
by inch, and retreat in order. 

Meanwhile, Greneral Moore, with the 
aid of other officers, had succeeded in 
rallying a portion of the militia, which, 
being ordered to join Major Wool with 
his detachment, awaited the approach 
of the enemy at Culver's hill, about 
four miles from Plattsburgh. This com- 
manding position was maintained with 
so much obstinacy as to compel the 
enemy, after attaining the summit of 
the hill, to retire to its base with the 
loss of Lieutenant-Colonel Wellington, 
who fell while gallantly leading the 
Third Buffs to the charge. Here, also. 
Ensign Chapman fell, and Captain West- 
roff", of the thirty-eighth British regi- 
ment, was severely wounded ; and here 
several of Major Wool's men, and Pat- 
ridge of the Essex militia, were killed. 
Nor was this position abandoned by 



Major Wool, until after he had received 
notice from General Moore that a col- 
umn of 2,000 of the enemy, advancing 
on the west Beekmantown road, was 
gaining on his rear ; when the Vermont 
troops fell back within two miles of 
Plattsburg. Here Captain Leonard, 
with two pieces of light artillery, des- 
patched by General M'Comb, arrived to 
take part in the action ; and the fire of 
the aitillery, the regular infantry, and 
a portion of the militia, literally mowed 
down the enemy's advancing column. 

In front of an overwhelming force, 
platoon after platoon delivered their fire, 
and fell back to load and form, in reer- 
ular succession, contesting every inch 
of ground, and seizing every favorable 
point to unlimber their artillery and 
pour a deadly shower of grape upon the 
advancing enemy. After repeated con- 
tests they were driven across the river, 
the bridges were taken up in the retreat, 
a final stand was made on the southern 
bank of the Saranac, and the enemy 
driven back beyond the reach of our 
guns. Forty-five of our men were killed 
in the retreat ; the British had one lieu- 
tenant-colonel, two captains, four lieu- 
tenants, and more than two hundred 
men, killed or wounded. Next morn- 
ing the British, in attempting to cross 
the river a few miles west of the village, 
were repulsed by Capt. Vaughan. The 
enemy were occupied, the four succeed- 
ing days, in erecting batteries to play 
upon the forts, during which there were 
frequent skirmishes along the river ; the 
gallant Green mountain boys, under the 
patriotic General Strong, were wafted to 
our aid by every eastern breeze, swelling 
our force to upward of three thousand. 
On the evening of the 9th, one hundred 
and fifty of our men crossed the Saranac, 
stormed and took, at the point of the 
bayonet, a battery defended by four hun- 
dred of the enemy, spiked the guns, and 
made good their retreat, without the 
loss of a single man. The battle of 
Beekmantown, the spirited resistance to 
the enemy's advance, and the burning of 
the courthouse, &c., north of the river by 
the hot shot from our batteries, prevent- 
ed an immediate attack upon the forts, to 
resist "which would have been fruitless. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



59 







Landing of the Pilgrims 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

This state, occupying a leading 
position among the six eastern 
members of the Union, in extent, 
commerce, manufactures, wealth, 
and population, borders on Maine, 
New Hampshire, and Vermont, on 
the north, and Rhode Island and 
Connecticut on the south; while 
it is bounded on the east by the 
Atlantic, and on the west by New 
York. With the exception of the 
seacoast, the boundaries of Massa- 
chusetts are almost entirely art- 
ificial ; and, when we cast our eyes 
over the map, we can discover 
none of those natural advantages which distinguish most other countries re- 
markable for prosperity. Massachusetts is a portion of the western continent 
containing no mines of gold, no long navigable rivers, no broad and fertile 
plains, not even an accessible supply of timber; and a person unacquainted with 
the true soui'ce of her power and wealth would be at a loss in seeking for it. 
" A land of hills, and valleys, and fountains of water," as the early explorers 
represented her, in their favorite scripture language, they had little else to say 
in praise of the natural features of the country. The coast presents a line of 
inhospitable rocks and reaches of sterile sand, and the appi'oach is rendered 
difficult and dangerous by a broad tract of shoals, through which a ship can find 
its way only by pursuing narrow and intricate channels, by careful sounding. 

Harbors. — Massachusetts is distinguished by the number and excellence of 
her harbors, which will very naturally secure to her a large part of the entire 
commerce oi New England, with the exception of Maine, Rhode Island, and 
Connecticut. 




60 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



Shoals. — Nantucket shoals line the 
coast for fifty miles, and are forty-five 
miles in breadth. They are very dan- 
gerous, being cut through by numerous 
channels of different depths, discover- 
able only by sounding. 

Islands. — Several islands of consid- 
erable size belong to this state, so situ- 
ated, and so well piovided with head- 
lands for lighthouses, and with harbors 
for shelter in storms, as to be of impor- 
tant service to the extensive coasting 
and foreign trade — especially such as 
are in the vicinity of the shoals. 

Nantucket. Island is fifteen miles by 
eleven, and forms, wiih five smaller 
islands, a county of tlie same name. 
It contains nearly thirty thousand acres. 
Its inhabitants have long been prover- 
bial for their skill in whalefishing, which 
was formerly carried on in boats in sight 
of the shore. They are equally distin- 
guished by their skill and boldness as 
pilots, many of them spending a consid- 
erable part of their lives in sailing about 
the shoals to pilot ships. The island is 
thirty miles south of the mainland, sixty 
southeast of New Bedfi>rd, and one hun- 
dred south-southeast of Boston. Lat- 
itude 41^ W 22", longitude 70^ 7' 56". 

Martha's Vineyard is twenty miles 
long and from two to five miles broad 
and lies west of Nantucket. Duke's 
county is formed of this island and sev- 
eral small ones in its vicinity. 

The first settlements were made at 
Plymouth by the passengers in the May- 
Flower, the first band of English dis- 
senters, called puritans, who arrived in 
America. They reached Cape Cod on 
the 22d of December, 1620, and, after a 
few days, fixed on Plymouth for their 
residence, which received its name from 
the last port in England from which 
they had sailed. The important conse- 
quences which resulted from the arrival 
of this little band of exiles have invested 
it with peculiar interest ; and the event 
and its concomitants have been com- 
memorated in numerous writings. 

The puritans received this title in 
derision. They had long been the chief 
advocates of principles which have since 
become extensively adopted in this coun- 
try and elsewhere, particularly civil and 



religious freedom, and the universal dif- 
fusion of learning. Numbers of them 
had taken refuge in Holland from the 
persecution they were exposed to in 
their native land, from the laws which 
then forbade them to worship God in 
their chosen manner. But, although 
treated with kindness by the Dutch prot- 
estants, they at length determined to 
seek a country in which they might 
rear their children, without exposing 
them to evil influences or to the loss of 
their native language. A band of them 
at length proceeded to England, accom- 
panied by their pastor, the Rev. Mr, 
Robinson, where, arrangements having 
been made, after some delay they sailed 
for America. The part of the coast on 
which they were landed was farther 
north than they had intended to reach; 
but this was probably, in the end, more 
favorable for their success. The In- 
dians had been almost all destroyed by 
a fatal disease, so that they found but 
little opposition among the natives for 
some years. 

The Plymouth colony was followed 
by several others. Salem was planted 
in 1628, and Boston in 1630. Most of 
the settlers being of the same class, a 
uniform system of laws and habits was 
established, which was gradually ex- 
tended, and most of the peculiarities of 
New England still retain the same char- 
acter. 

These first colonies were the sources 
or the channels from which the settle- 
tlements on the Connecticut, and many 
of those in New Hampshire and Ver- 
mont, derived their impulse and their 
population, and there we find a general 
identity of sentiment and society. 

The first period in the history of Mas- 
sachusetts is that between the first set- 
tlement and the Pequod war, in 1636, 
when Rhode Island and Connecticut 
river had been occupied and exposed to 
powerful tribes of savages, against whom 
Massachusetts afforded them aid. Then 
commenced that active system of mutual 
support, which often secured the safety 
of the eastern colonies, and gradually 
extended to all the colonies from Eng- 
land, and resulted in forming the United 
States. 



62 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



The second period extends to Philip's 
war, in 1675, when Massachusetts had 
several towns on Connecticut river, and 
had an extensive region to protect at 
home from a powerful savage combina- 
tion. The third period may be limited 
by the close of the last French war, in 
1759, when the capture of Canada by 
the British put an end to the long and 
disastrous hostilities of France upon the 
frontiers of the colonies. The fourth 
period extends to the close of the rev- 
olution, and the fifth to the present day. 

Early Missions among the Indians. — 
Rev. John Eliot began to preach to the 
Indians near Boston in 1646. In 1650 
the English " society for the propaga- 
tion of the gospel in foi'eign parts," 
opened a correspondence with the com- 
missioners of the United colonies, and 
appointed them their agents. Eliot 
(the apostle to the Indians, as he is often 
called) had, ere this, been so far suc- 
cessful in his exertions as to feel encour- 
agement, and to inspire the benevolent 
with hope. He continued his labors 
several years without reward or expec- 
tation of payment ; but afterward re- 
ceiving contributions from gentlemen in 
England, he was enabled to extend his 
operations, and to educate his sons at 
collesfe, the eldest of whom afterward 
preached to the natives. By his exam- 
ple several other clergymen in the coun- 
try were encouraged to adopt similar 
measures. Mi*. Bourne and Mr. Cotton 
acquired the Indian language to qualify 
them for the task, and preached at Mar- 
tha's Vineyard, &c. ; Mr. Mayhew and 
his son preached at that island and at 
Nantucket ; while Messrs. Pierson and 
Fitch followed their example in Con- 
necticut. 

Eliot published his Indian translation 
of the New Testament in 1661, and the 
whole Bible soon after. The printing 
was done at the expense of the society 
for the propagation of the gospel. He 
prepared also translations of Baxter's 
Call, psalms, hymns, &c., and composed 
several works for use in the schools 
which he established in the Indian vil- 
lages. Some of the youth wei-e sent to 
learn Latin and Greek. Several Indian 
towns were constituted by Massachu- 



setts, and courts established in them, 
each with one English judge, while other 
officers were all chosen by the natives. 

The first Indian church was formed 
in 1670, at Natick ; the second at Pak- 
emit, now Stoughton, whose first native 
teacher was named Ahawton. The other 
Christian or praying towns in the Indian 
country were the following : Okomma- 
kummessit, now Marlborough ; Wam- 
esit, now Tewksbury ; Nashobah, now 
Littleton ; Mungunkook, now Hopkin- 
ton ; and there were others in Oxford, 
Dudley, Worcester, and Uxbridge, and 
three in AVoodstock. 

The gospel was thus early made known 
to the Indians ; many of them received 
it, and it immediately began to produce 
its natural effects, by introducing civil- 
ization with many of its advantages. 
The people became fixed in their hab- 
its and residences, attended to agricul- 
ture, began to acquire learning, erected 
more substantial habitations, and pur- 
sued the arts. 

In Plymouth colony the success of 
the early efforts of missionaries among 
the natives was still more remarkable. 
About five hundred Indians on Cape Cod, 
under the care of the Rev. Mr. Bourne, 
made rapid improvement. About two 
hundred soon learned to read, and more 
than seventy to write, and there was a 
church with twenty-seven communi- 
cants, with the Mayhews, at Martha's 
Vineyard. 

Printing. — The Rev. Jesse Glover, 
an English dissenting clergymen, has 
been called the father of the American 
press. He embarked for New England 
in 1638, with his family, and a printing- 
press which he had purchased with 
money contributed by himself and his 
friends, accompanied by a printer, Ste- 
phen Daye, whom he had hired. Mr. 
Glover died on the passage ; but the 
magistrates and elders of Massachusetts 
encouraged Daye to put the press in 
operation at Cambridge, where the 
new-comers took up their residences. 
In January, 1639, he printed the Free- 
man's Oath, an almanac, and the Psalms 
in metre. His first successor, Samuel 
Green, began to print in 1649, and died 
in 1702. He had nineteen children, 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



63 



and many of his descendants have been 
printers. 

Government. — The legislative power 
is vested in a senate and house of repre- 
sentatives, which together are styled the 
General Court of Massachusetts. 

The senate consists of forty members, 
who are chosen animally by the people, 
by districts, according to population. 

The house of representatives consists 
of members chosen annually by the cities 
and towns, according to population, ev- 
ery town having 300 ratable polls elect- 
ing a representative, and for every 450 
more, one addit ional representative. Any 
town having less than 300 polls, to be 
represented as many years within ten 
years, as 300 is contained in the product 
of the number of polls in said town, 
multiplied by ten. 

The governor is elected annually by 
the people, and at the same time a lieu- 
tenant-governor is chosen. 

The governor is assisted in the execu- 
tive department, particularly in appoint- 
ments to office, by a council of nine 
members, who are chosen by the joint 
ballot of the senators and representa- 
tives, from the people. 

The judiciary is vested in a supreme 
court, a court of common pleas, and such 
other courts as the legislature may es- 
tablish. The judges are appointed by 
the governor, by and with the advice 
and consent of the council, and hold their 
offices during good behavior. 

The right of suffi-age is granted to ev- 
ery male citizen twenty-one years of age 
and upward (excepting paupers and per- 
sons under guardianship), who has resi- 
ded within the commonwealth one year, 
and within the town or district in which 
he may claim a right to vote, six months 
preceding any election, and who has 
paid a state or county tax. 

Railroads. — There are completed and 
in full operation within the borders of 
the state of Massachusetts more than 
twelve hundred miles of railroads. Dur- 
ing the year 1850, nearly ten millions 
of passengers passed over these roads 
which also transported two and a half 
millions of tons of freights. — But these 
many lines of railroad have more than 
an interior benefit for the state. In 



conjunction with other railroads beyond 
the state limits and steam navigation, 
the city of Boston is connected with 
thiiteen states of the Union, thus intro- 
ducing the metropolis of the state to a 
commercial sphere of the utmost im- 
portance. The people of Massachusetts 
have shown a remarkable foresight, en- 
ergy, and perseverance, in the projection 
and construction of roads within their 
own, and in the subscription to the stock 
of others, in contiguous states, the ulti- 
mate benefit of which can scarcely be 
over-estimated. The money thus ap- 
propriated amounts, in the aggregate, to 
over fifty millions of dollars. 

Education. — Common schools were 
established by law very soon after the 
foundation of the colony of Massachu- 
setts Bay ; and parents, guardians, &c., 
were required to have their children 
and wards instructed. Every larger 
village and town was to have a gram- 
mar-school. Education, at least in the 
rudiments of learning, has always been 
universal in this state ; and the influence 
of Massachusetts in extending and sus- 
taining institutions of learning in other 
parts of the country has been great, and 
not less creditable to her citizens than 
beneficial to their fellow-citizens of the 
Union. In the recent improvements in 
common schools, and some other means 
of diffusing knowledge, she has been 
one of the most efficient states ; and 
many of the measures approved and 
practised by the intelligent friends of 
learning have been devised or brought 
into use, or most early or effectually 
put into practice, within her boundaries. 
Yet Massachusetts, until 1835, has never 
had a school fund, and her common 
schools were wholly supported by the 
people. A fund was then provided for, 
limited to one million of dollars. 

Every town or district containing fifty 
families is required to have a school 
kept at least six months in the yenr; or, 
if several schools exist, they shall be 
kept long enough to equal one school 
for six months. For those containing 
one hundred families the requisition is 
doubled ; and for those containing one 
hundred and fifty families, eigliteen 
months are required. 



64 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



Massachusetts is therefore justly enti- 
tled to a large share of the credit of hav- 
ing given an impulse to the cause of pop- 
ular EDUCATION. The early settlers of 
that section of our country were fully 
sensible of the defects of the English in- 
stitutions which they had foi'saken. That 
the schools of learning and religion were 
corrupted, and the fairest hopes over- 
thrown by licentious behavior in those 
seminaries, was one among the many 
causes of their emigration from the Old 
World, and of pledging themselves to 
the education of their children. In the 
year 1G68, a document was published by 
order of the government and council of 
Massachusetts, and addressed to the el- 
ders and ministers of every town, in 
which paper was set forth an earnest 
desire ft)r the moral and religious instruc- 
tion of the people, and an appeal to those 
to whom the instrument was directed, to 
examine whether the education of youth 
in the English language was attended to. 
From the time of the Winthrops and 
their associates, who labored zealously 
in this field of usefulness, to the present 
period, New England has devoted her 
attention to the promotion of knowledge ; 
and in, the industry, integrity, and fru- 
gality of her children, now beholds the 
brilliant results of her perseverance. 
When we consider that the tide of im- 
migration, which is sweeping before it 
the forests of the west, takes its rise in 
the eastern section of the United States, 
and bears upon its bosom the elements 
of enrichment — that it is composed, in a 
great degree, of those who have been 
enabled to obtain there the rudiments 
of learning, the first principles of valua- 
ble information — ought we not to be 
grateful to those who have toiled and 
are still doing all that lies in their pow- 
er to render the fountain pure and trans- 
parent ] 

Too much can not be done in arousing 
public opinion on the subject of the ed- 
ucation of children. Let the instruction 
of a child be considered the paramount 
duty of a good citizen, and then public 
sentiment will act much more powerful- 
ly to produce the results desired than 
the staff of the officer of police. Public 
opinion is the best balance-wheel of the 



machinery of a society constituted as 
that is in which we live. It must be by 
promulgating among the people the sen- 
timent of the necessity of education — by 
arousing their attention to its value — by 
demonstrating its beneficial results, as 
not only the best check on the increase 
of crime, the prevention of pauperism, 
but also the promoter of public order 
and private happiness — that we can hope 
to have education generally diffused. So 
soon as the people are convinced, we 
shall have the brilliant object which all 
should desire to see effected. To pro- 
duce great results, must be the work of 
time. The past labors of the people are 
the best evidences of their devotion to the 
advancement of learning, and give great 
hope that the system of education will 
be laid with a broad and deep founda- 
tion, on which the pyramid of the repub- 
lic's glory and security may rise, and re- 
main an imperishable monument of the 
benevolence and wisdom of her citizens. 
In connexion, however, with the above, 
we most unhesitatingly assert that mere 
intellectual improvement is not, or should 
not be, the exclusive or even the prima- 
ry object of EDUCATION. Moral and reli- 
gious principles are infinitely more mo- 
mentous to the character and interests 
of the future man than the cultivation of 
the mind alone, whether we look to the 
individual himself, or to the influence 
which he will hereafter exercise upon 
society. The talented and accomplished 
scholar may shine in public and social 
life — may astonish by the depth of his 
erudition, charm by the gi'aces of his el- 
oquence, or dazzle by the coruscations 
of his wit; but the truly moral and vir- 
tuous man — the man of principle only 
— is the centre around which domestic 
felicity revolves ; he only contributes to 
the real and enduring benefit of society, 
and his own near and dear connexions. 
Contemplated in this aspect (and few, 
we think, will refuse thus to contemplate 
it), the morality which may be learned 
from any system of religious opinions 
that professes to take the Bible for its 
basis, deserves to be estimated far more 
highly than even the most extensive ac- 
quirements and splendid abilities, if un- 
controlled by those motives and principles 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



65 



of action which alone can direct them to 
the production of solid and abidingadvan- 
tage. Devoid of these principles, they 
have been almost invariably found, like 
sharp and polished weapons in the hands 
of a lunatic, to inflict a mortal wound up- 
on the possessor, and strike deep at the 
best interests of society. 

" A people, to be truly free, must first 
be wise and good." This is truly an 
admirable maxim, and so evident as not 
to admit of doubt, even if it had not been 
long since fully demonstrated in the an- 
nals of the past. Education is the ground- 
work of national freedom and civilization 
— the foundation on which have origina- 
ted the great and essential improvements 
of agriculture, the mechanical branches, 
and the pursuits of science — the main 
pillars which. constitute a nation's power 
and character. These and the fine arts, 
which polish and adorn the whole — the 
beauties of nature, eloquence, and sci- 
ence, with all the social endearments, 
which refine and embellish society — as 
well as the higher and more sublime 
character of those moral and political in- 
stitutions, which bind together and direct 
the whole, — are all the effects of that 
strength and intelligence which educa- 
tion has imparted to the human mind. 
And when we consider tha,t ignorance is 
the grand cause of vice and crime among 
the poor — that it contributes to their mor- 
al debasement and misery, excluding 
them from the enjoyment of all rational 
delight — confining their pastimes and 
pleasures to mere feats of strength and 
inebriating hilarity — and how it prevents 
the mind from expanding for the recep- 
tion of vii'tue and morality — we can not 
but rejoice at the success of all plans for 
illuminating this darkness, and respect 
the names and memories of those great 
and good men who have contributed so 
largely and freely of their time, influ- 
ence, and earthly substance, to extend 
the blessing of a sound and religious ed- 
ucation to every son and daughter within 
the reach of their influence. 

Many of the most eminent men of the 
state and nation were natives or long citi- 
zens of Boston. The early clergymen 
wei'e Cotton, Wilson, the Mathers, Oxen- 
bridge, Norton, Allen, Davenport, Wil- 



lard, Coleman, Prince, the Eliots, Byles, 
Thacher, Wadsworth, Pemberton, Cal- 
lender, Sewall, Cooper, Checkley, May- 
hew, Gee, Walter, Condy, Stillman, 
Chauncey, Lathrop, Howard, West, Bel- 
knap, Parker, Everett, Kirkland, Emer- 
son, Buckminster, and Channing. They 
were eminent scholars, as well as able 
theologians. We have only room for a 
few of the distinguished laymen of early 
times. These vi'ere Winthrop, Belling- 
ham, Leverett, Stoughton, Cheever, Bulk- 
ley, Dummer, Cook, Brattle, the Sew- 
alls. Belcher, Oliver; and in later pe- 
riods, Otis, Bowdoin, Samuel Adams, 
Gridley,. Joseph Warren, John Hancock, 
Richard Dana, Governor Hutchinson, 
Thacher, Sears, Quincy, Mason, &c. Of 
these latter individuals especially, many 
of them made great exertions, and suf- 
fered much in various ways, during the 
war of the Revolution. Several of them 
were opulent merchants, and they loaned 
largely of their money to the government 
for its support. During that period not 
only was the commerce of this ancient 
metropolis long suspended and greatly 
injured, but many of its public and pri- 
vate buildings destroyed. It furnished 
great numbers of men in various ways 
in the service of the country; they were 
obliged to be constantly under arms in 
times of danger and apprehensi(jn. The 
citizens of all classes — the merchants and 
mechanics, and the professional men — 
were zealous advocates of the Federal 
Constitution in 1788, and afterward the 
firm supporters of the administrations of 
Washington and Adams. We learn, from 
a series of articles, prepared and pub- 
lished by Edwin Williams, Esq., of 
New York, that " the honor of orijjina- 
ting a suggestion which afterward led to 
the organization of the old Continental 
Congress, and prepared the way for the 
independence of these United States, 
was due to the name of Sears."* 

• Colonel Isaac Sears, the (lisiinguished character 
here alluded to, was the originator and leader of the 
"Sons of Liberty'- at the opening of the American 
Revolution. He seems for a time to have represent- 
ed the spirit of that revolution more fully than any 
other person in the city and vicinity of New York. 
His life has never been written, which, including the 
doing.s of the " Liberty Boys," is an interesting and 
unexplored province of our revolutionary annals. He 
is often referred to in the correspondence of Wash- 
ington, Gouverneur Morris, and Messrs. Adams, as 



66 



DESCRIPTION OF THB STATE OP MASSACHUSETTS. 



These illustrious worthies of a past 
age being dead, yet speak to us. We 
do well to hallow their memories and 
record their noble deeds. Interesting 
associations cluster around these great 
actors in the drama of the Past, They 
belong to the nation ; for not the old 
states merely, but those which sprang in- 
to being out yesterday, look upon the 
glory of the Revolution as a common 
patrimony. This nation must ever be 
sensible of the worth of its benefactors, 
and reiiX merit will soon dissipate the 
mists of party prejudice. Its effect, like 
that of a very strong sympathetic feeling 
running through the people, must be to 
knit more closely the bonds of national 
union. It has given freshness to the 
memory of common efforts in the great 
national struggle, which must always 
prove a powerful tie among men who 
exult in the achievements of a common 
ancestry. It may have furnished some 
incense to the vanity imputed to our na- 
tion ; but this is as dust in the balance 
compared with the spirit which it indi- 
cates and the feelings which it has awa- 
kened. Here we may learn useful les- 
sons for the future, from the history of 
the past. 

Let us follow these distinguished men 
to " old age ;" when Nature seemed to 
demand repose, each had retired to the 
spot from which the public exigencies 
had first called him — his public labors 
ended, his work accomplished, his be- 
loved country prosperous and happy — 
there to indulge in the blessed retrospect 
of a well-spent life, and to await that pe- 
riod which comes to all. Did they pass 
their time in idleness and indifference 1 
No. The same spirit of active benevo- 
lence, which made the meridian of their 
lives resplendent with glory, continued 
to shed its lustie upon their evening path. 
Still intent on doing good, still devoted 
to the great cause of human happiness 
and improvement, none of these illustri- 
ous men relaxed in their exertions. They 
seemed only to concentrate their energy 

rendering important services to the colonies, and is 
named in the journals of those times as a brave and 
heroic character. The materials of his biography are 
yet extant in public and private documents in the 
city and state of New York, and ought to be coliected 
and preserved, as important sources of history. 



as age and increasing infirmity contract- 
ed the circle of action — bestowing, with- 
out ostentation, their latest efforts upon 
the state and neighborhood in which they 
resided. There, with patriarchal sim- 
plicity, they lived, the objects of a na- 
tion's grateful remembrance and affec- 
tion — the living records of a nation's his- 
tory ; the charm of an age which they 
delighted, adorned, and instructed, by 
their deeds of benevolence, and vivid 
sketches of times that are past; and, as 
it were, the embodied spirit of the Rev- 
olution itself, in all its purity and force, 
diffusing its wholesome influence through 
the generations that have succeeded, re- 
buking every sinister design, and invig- 
orating every manly and virtuous resolu- 
tion. 

We can not set in too strong a light 
their history. It awakens the public 
gratitude for their services ; it tells their 
countrymen to be faithful to their prin- 
ciples, and vigilant in preserving those 
institutions free and unimpaired, to at- 
tain which they sacrificed their ease and 
safety. These eulogies are in fact the 
people's testimony to the excellence of 
our form of government. The venera- 
tion paid to such men as Adams and Jef- 
ferson is an acknowledgment of the 
worth of the political principles which 
they laboi'ed to establish. And when 
the kingdoms of the Old World are tot- 
tering to their foundations, what can be 
more proper or grateful than the sight 
of a whole people uniting to testify their 
love for the government under which they 
live] In other countries, one half of the 
nation is employed in preventing the oth- 
er from pulling the political machine to 
pieces. Heke, all are united to up- 
hold IT. 

Of the present distinguished, patriotic, 
and benevolent citizens of Boston, a long 
list might be here given, and then not all 
be mentioned. It has been remarked, 
and with great truthfulness, that the lib- 
erality of her rich men is proverbial from 
Maine to Missouri, and has secured for 
that city a name which, we trust, future 
generations will not only respect, but en- 
deavor to add to its lustre, by imitating 
such men as the Lawrences, David 
Sears, the Appletons, Thomas H. Per- 



68 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



KINS, and a host of others, whose coffers 
are not closed, but who are constantly 
contributing, by their princely individu- 
al donations often and twenty thousand 
dollars, to undertakings of philanthropy 
and charity — encouraging talent, promo- 
ting industry, and fostering the fine arts ; 
thus setting a most noble example to the 
wealthy of other cities which we could 
wish more generally imitated. Since 
the year 1800, over three millions 
OF DOLLARS have been given in munifi- 
cent gifts by the citizens of Boston to 
the cause of education alone. 

The first settlers of New England were 
exceedingly tenacious of their civil and 
religious rights, and they well knew that 
KNOWLEDGE was an all-powerful engine 
to preserve those rights, and transmit 
them to their posterity. They therefore 
very early laid the foundation of those 
FREE SCHOOLS of whicli all the sons and 
daughters of New England are so justly 
proud. Exclusive of infant and sabbath 
school children, about a quarter part of 
the population of Boston is kept at school 
throughout the year, at an annual 'ex- 
pense of about two hundred thousand 
dollars. 

Their successors have nobly imitated 
their bright and patriotic example. Such 
men are indeed the fathers of the nation, 
and must ever live in the affections of 
the people. When time has consigned 
them to their honored graves, the good 
they have done will live after them. Fu- 
ture generations will rise up and call 
them blessed. Their names will fill a 
niche in the temple erected in every one's 
memory, to commemorate those who, as 
they passed along the pathway of life, 
scattered the seeds of knowledge and 
morality, which have taken root, sprung 
up, bearing the most delectable fruits, 
agreeable to the sight, and of pleasant 
flavor. 

Williams College, at Williamstown, 
Berkshire county, in the northwest cor- 
ner of the state, was a public school or 
academy at its commencement, in 1791, 
and was incorporated as a college in 
1793. It derives its name from its found- 
er. Colonel Ephraim Williams. Besides 
donations from the state and several in- 
dividuals, it has received a bequest of 



fifty-seven thousand dollars from Mr. 
Woodbridge Little. It is under the 
charge of seventeen trustees. 

The Newton Theological Seminary, 
under the patronage of the baptist de- 
nomination, was founded in Newton in 
1825, and was incorporated by the legis- 
lature the next year. In 1828, a brick 
building, three stories in height, besides 
a basement story, eighty-five feet lr)ng 
and forty-nine wide, was erectetl, at an 
expense of about ten thousatid dollars. 
Three convenient houses have been since 
erected for the professors. In the man- 
sion-house are accommodations for the 
steward's family, a dining-hall, a chapel, 
and recitation-rooms. The regular course 
of study occupies three years. There 
ai'e two vacations of six weeks each — 
one from the last Wednesday but one in 
August, tlie other from the last Wednes- 
day in March. The seminary is about 
seven miles from Boston, in a very salu- 
brious locality, being beautifully situated 
on an elevated hill, which commands an 
extensive prospect of Boston and of the 
rich country around. 

Cambridge University. — This insti- 
tution, which is the oldest in the Union, 
and the most liberally endowed, was 
commenced in 1636 by the general court 
of Massachusetts, who then appropriated 
four hundred pounds sterling toward the 
establishment of a college, which was 
incorpoiafed in 1638, under the title of 
" Harvard College," in consequence of a 
legacy left it that year, by Rev. John 
Harvard, of 66779' 17a-. 2d. The stare 
and different liberal donors have since 
increased its funds to a large amount. 

It is situated in the city of Cambridge, 
three miles west from Boston, and com- 
prises an academical department, as well 
as those of law, theology, science, and 
medicine. Each of these five depart- 
ments is distinct in itself with its own 
particular government and body of in- 
structors, each having its sepai'ate funds, 
its own pupils, and its peculiar objects, 
but all suijject to one supreme head. 

The buildings of the university are 
fourteen in Cambridge and one in Bos- 
ton. Four of the principal buildings are 
of four stories, for tlie accommodation 
of students ; two others contain the min- 



70 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



eralogical cabinet, the library, the chap- 
els, &c. Besides these are the halls of 
law, divinity, medicine, &c. It has an 
excellent anatomical museum, and a bo- 
tanical garden ofeight acres, richly stored 
with an extensive collection of tiees, 
shrubs, and plants, both native and for- 
eign. The libraiies contain above forty 
thousand volumes, including those of the 
several departments. Those belonging 
to the studies contain about five thou- 
sand volumes. Tlie cabinets and appa- 
ratus are very valuable. The annual 
commencement is on the third Wednes- 
day in July. 

Cambridge Observatory. — This obser- 
vatory is situated on a commanding emi- 
nence called Summer-house hill, the sum- 
mit of which is about fifty feet above the 
plain on which are etected the buildings 
of the university. This height is found 
to give from the dome an horizon almost 
uninteriupied to within two or three de- 
grees of altitude. The grounds appro- 
priated to the use of the observatory com- 
prise about six and a half acres. It is 
distant nearly three fourths of a mile 
northwest from University hall, and three 
and a half miles in the same direction 
from the statehouse in Boston. 

This observatory may be said to owe 
its existence to the liberality of the Hon. 
David Sears, who contributed five thou- 
sand dollars for the ereclion of an obser- 
vatory tower, five hundred dollars tow- 
ard the purchase of a telescope, and five 
thousand dollars more to create a fund, 
the income of which to be appropriated 
to the support of the observers, and for 
other purposes of science. 

Sears Towp:r, so called in honor of 
its founder, whose generous donation is 
mentioned above, is built of brick, on a 
foundation of granite, laid with cement. 
It is thirty-two feet square on the out- 
side, while on the inside the corners aie 
gradually brought to a circular form for 
the better support of the dome, forming 
a massive arch. This dome, covering 
the grand erjuatorial, is a hemisphere of 
thirty-two feet interior diameter, formed 
with stout ribs of plank, and covered ex- 
ternally with copper. There is an open- 
ing five feet wide, and extending a few 
degrees beyond the zeMith,which is closed 



by weather-proof shutters, and worked 
by means of an endless chain and toothed 
wheel. 

On the lower side of this dome is af- 
fixed a grooved iron rail, and on the gran- 
ite cap of the wall is placed a similar 
rail : between these grooves are placed 
eight iron spheres, accurately turned, on 
which the dome is revolved. The appa- 
ratus for moving the dome consists of 
toothed wheels, geared to a series of 
toothed iron plates, fastened to its lower 
section. By means of this, the whole 
dome, weighing about fourteen tons, can 
be turned through a whole revolution, 
by a single person, in thirty-five seconds. 
In this dome are placed the " Grand Re- 
fractor," and one or two smaller instru- 
ments. The comet-seeker, a small in- 
strument of four inches' aperture, by 
Merz, is used from the balconies of the 
dome. This is the instrument with which 
the younger Bond has discovered no less 
than eleven telescopic comets before in- 
telligence had reached him of their hav- 
ing been seen by any other observer. 
From these balconies a most extensive 
and beautiful view of the neighboi-ing 
towns meets the eye — their numeious 
hills, spires, &c. 

On either side of the tower is a large 
wing. Of these, the eastern is used as 
a dwelling for the observer ; the west- 
ern, on which is placed the smaller dome, 
is used for magnetic and meteorological 
observations. This wing was erected in 
the years 1850-'5I, and adds greatly to 
the architectural beauty of the observa- 
tory. In this dome is placed the smaller 
equatorial, of five feet focal length, and 
an object-glass of four and one eighth 
inches, made by Merz, which is a re- 
markably fine instrument. 

The '-Grand Refractor," justly con- 
sidt-red second to none in the woild, has 
already become celebrated in the hands 
of the skilful and scientific director and 
his assistant, from the many brilliant dis- 
coveries which have been made with it. 
Among these we may particularly men- 
tion the new ring and satellite of the 
planet Saturn. It has also enabled the 
observers to resolve the pi incipal nebulae, 
particularly those in the constellations 
Orion and Andromeda. The object-glass 



72 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OJC MASSACHUSETTS. 




Grand Refractor, Cambridge Obaervatory. 



was made at the celebrated manufactory 
of Merz and Mahler, in Munich, Bavaria. 
Its extreme diameter is fifteen and a half 
inches, its focal length is twenty-two feet 
six inches, and its total weight is nearly 
three tons ; yet the friction is so success- 
fully relieved by the judicious arrange- 
ment of wheels and counterpoises, that it 
could be pointed to any quarter of the 
heavens by the finger of a child. 

A sidereal motion is communicated to 
the telescope by clock-work, by means of 
which an object may be constantly kept 
in the field of view, which essentially 
aids the observer in delicate examina- 
tions of celestial objects. 

Besides the grand refractor, the object- 
glass, &c., the observatory is furnished 
with many smaller instruments, and a 
complete set of meteorological instru- 
ments, an astronomical clock, and side- 
real chronometers. 



One of the most ingenious contrivan- 
ces corniected with the observatory is the 
" observer's chair," invented by the di- 
rector. By means of this chaii-, the ob- 
server can transport himself to any part 
of the dome without moving from his 
seat. 

The new method of finding the motion 
of the earth, by means of a pendulum, 
has been tried at the observatory, and 
also by Professor Horsford, at the Law- 
rence Scientific School. 

Lawrence Scientific School. — Practical 
instruction in the mathematical, physical, 
and natural sciences, upon a more ex- 
tended plan than that pursued in the un- 
dergraduate depaitment of Harvard, had 
been a subject of discussion previous to 
the time of President Everett. In his 
inaugural address, however, the project 
of a separate scientific school received 
its first distinct announcement. About 




L&wrence Scientific School, at Cambridge. 



this time a vacancy occurred in the Rum- 
ford professorship by the resignation of 
Professor Treadwell. The situation was 
filled by the election of Professor Hors- 
ford, of New York, who soon after his 
arrival in Cambridge submitted to the 
corporation a plan for the erection and 
furnishing of a laboratory for instruction 
in chymistry and its applications to the 
arts, contemplating an expense of fifty 
thousand dollars. This plan, in an able 
letter from the treasurer, Hon. Samuel 
A. Eliot, was laid before Hon. Abbott 
Lawrence. 

To this appeal Mr. Lawrence respond- 
ed in a spirit of munificence altogether 
unexampled. The gift (of fifty thousand 
dollars) was accompanied by a letter, 
proposing, in addition to the erection of 
suitable buildings, including a laborato- 
ry, to found two new professorships, one 
of zoology and geology, and another of 
engineering, which, with the Rumford 
professorships, were to constitute the nu- 
cleus of a school for the " acquisition, 
illustration, and dissemination of the prac- 
tical sciences." 

Soon after the receipt of the donation 
of Mr. Lawrence, Professor Agassiz, of 
Switzerland, was invited to the chair of 
zoology and geology, and at a later pe- 
riod Lieutenant Eustis (of the army) to 



that of engineering. At the commence- 
ment of 1848, the corporation conferred 
upon the institution the name of " Law- 
rence Scientific School." 

In the summer and autumn of 1849, 
a laboratory, unsurpassed even in Eu- 
rope, in its conveniences for practical 
instruction, was erected and furnished ; 
and in the year following a building was 
constructed for the temporary accommo- 
dation of the departments of zoology, 
geology, and engineering. 

The Andover Theological Academy 
was the first institution of the kind in 
the country. It was commenced in 1808, 
having been founded the year before. It 
is situated in Andover, a pleasant village, 
in a fine, elevated tract of country, nine- 
teen miles northwest of Boston. The 
value of the property belonging to it has 
been stated at four hundred thousand 
dollai's, for which it has been largely in- 
debted to the liberality of its principal 
donors, namely, John Norris, of Salem ; 
Samuel Abbott, of Andover ; and Moses 
Brown and William Bartlett, of Newbu- 
ry port. 

The buildings of the institution con- 
sist of a dwelling-house for each of the 
professors; Phillips hall, of brick, nine- 
ty feet by forty, four stories, containing 
thirty-two rooms for students, built in 



74 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



1808 ; Bartlet chapel, an elegant brick 
building, ninety-four feet by forty, con- 
taining a chapel, libi'aiy, and three lec- 
ture-rooms, built ill 1818 ; and Bartlet 
hall, a handsome brick edifice, one hun- 
dred and f(jur feet by forty, containing 
thirty-two suiles of rooms furnished, pre- 
sented by Mr. Bartlet in 1821. The build- 
ings stand on elevated ground, having a 
commanding, variegated, and beautiful 
prospect. 

The library of the seminary contains 
about fifteen thmisand volumes. Besides 
this, theie are two oiher libraries : one, 
of the Porter Rhetorical Society, con- 
taining from two to three thousand vol- 
umes ; the other, belonging to the Soci- 
ety of Inquiry respecting Missions, con- 
taining from one to two thousand vol- 
umes. There is an athenaeum and news- 
room, sujiported by the students. An- 
nexed to the institution is a commodious 
mechanic's shop, where the students can 
exercise themselves in carpentering or 
cabinet-work. The term is three years. 
The principal study for the first year is 
the Bible in its original tongues. The 
second year is occupied in the study of 
systematic theology. The third year is 
devoted to the study of ecclesiastical 
history, and the composition (if sermons. 
There is also a Teachers^ Scmiiiary near 
the institution, which will accommodate 
two l)undre(l students. It is under the 
trustees of Phillips Academy and four 
visiieis. 

Lk ARNED Societies. — The American 
Academy of Arts and Sciences was in- 
corporated in 1780, and has published 
several quarto volumes. 

The Massachusetts Medical Society 
was incorpf)rated in 1781. 

The Massachusetts Historical Society 
was established in 1791 and incorpora- 
ted in 1794, and has pul)lished many vol- 
umes of collections. 

The American Antiquarian Society was 
incorporated in 1812. 

The A)ncrican Institute of Instruction 
was foundt-d in 1831. 

Ni'.wsPAPERS, &c. — The number of 
newspapers published in tiiis state before 
tlie Revolution (in 177.5) was seven, viz., 
in Boston, the Boston News-Letter, the 
Evening Post, the Gazette, the Massa- 



chusetts Gazette and Postboy ; in Salem, 
the Essex Gazette ; in Newburyport, the 
Essex Journal ; and in Worcester (first 
published at Boston), the Massachusetts 
Spy. The first daily paper in Massa- 
chusetts, was the Boston Daily Adver- 
tiser, begun in 1813. 

The earliest periodical pamphlets or 
magazines printed in the stale were the 
following : from 1789 to 1796, the Mas- 
sachusetts Magazine, or Monthly Muse- 
um, wliich extended to eight volumes ; 
in 1800, the Columbian Phoenix and Bos- 
ton Review, which ceased after the eigliih 
number; in 1802, the New England Mag- 
azine ; from 1803 to 1811, the Montlily 
Anthology, or Boston Review, in ten vol- 
umes, edited at first by Phineas Adams, 
and afterward by Rev, William Emer- 
son, W. S. Shaw, A. M. Waller, James 
■Savage, and others ; in 1803, the Ameri- 
can Baptist Magazine was begun, which 
continued under several editors; in 1805, 
the Missionary Magazine, by congrega- 
tional clergymen ; in 1806, the Panoplist, 
by Rev. J. Morse and others : tliese two 
were united in 1808, and edited by Rev. 
Jeremiah Evarts from 1810 till 1820, 
when the Missionary Herald took its 
place, which is still contiimed, under the 
American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions. Literary, religious, 
and scientific pirldications of tliis class 
liave since multiplied to such a degree, 
that we have not room for any furthei- 
notice under this head. The North 
American Review, however, must be 
mentioned, as one of the oldest and most 
influential publications of the kind in the 
fJnited Slutes. It was commenced in 
1815, forms two volumes annually, and 
has been edited successively by William 
Tudor, .Tared Sparks. Edward T. Chan- 
ning, Edward Everett, Alexander H. Ev- 
erett, &c. 

Boston, the capital of this state, is sit- 
uated on a small peninsula at the head 
of Massachusetts bay, at the mouth of 
Charles river, and is the principal city 
and seaport of New England. The har- 
bor is accessible, large, and well protect- 
ed by both nature and art. This city 
contains an uncommonly large piopor- 
tion of fine buildings, particularly private 
residences. The Hnesf huildiniis are of 



76 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



whitish granite, brought from the shores 
of the Merrimack river and Quincy. 

Boston, like many other large cities, 
has been, by common consent, divided 
into districts, with names indicating the 
location of each. Thus there are North 
Boston, West Boston, East Boston, Soulh 
End, and South Boston. The first sec- 
tion embraces the north end of the city, 
or all that part lying north of Faneuil 
hall, and what was the canal, or Mill- 
creek. This is the oldest part, and i'ov- 
merly had the advantage of the piincipal 
trade. The streets here are generally 
narrow and crooked, and some of tliem 
remain much as ihey were when fir^t con- 
structed, on the model of tlie old towns 
in England. The buildings are mostly 
old, and matiy are built of wood, and ex- 
hibit the different styles of architecture 
used for a period of more than a centuiy 
and a half. Except a portion of what 
was formerly the Millpond. the only spot 
of land not covered by buildings at pres- 
ent is on Coppshill, and the greater part 
of this is occupied f )r a burial-ground. 
From this hill the British cannonaded 
the town of Charlestown in 1775, during 
the memorable battle of Bunker hill. 
They left a small fort standing on this 
hill, which remained a favorite resort for 
the lecreation of schoolboys until 1807. 
Tiie natural situation of this section of 
the city gives it an advantage over any 
other part, whether considered as a place 
for comfortable and healthy residence, 
or its convenience for trade. The chan- 
nel of Charles river runs close to the 
shore, and has depth and width sufficient 
to accommodate ships of the gieatest bur- 
den. The spiiit of improvement recently 
awakened in North Boston shows that 
the citizens begin to appreciate its ad- 
vantages. 

West Boston lies between the com- 
mon and Canal street, west of Hanover 
and Tremont streets, and has been re- 
cently built. The buildings are princi- 
pally of brick, erected in a handsome 
style, and are mostly used as dwellings. 
The statehouse, hospital, national thea- 
tre, courthouse, and jail, are located in 
this section. 

The South E.md comprises all the 
peninsula south of Summer and Winter 



streets, and extends to Roxbury. About 
one fourth of the buildings in this section 
are of wood. Those that have been most 
recently erected are of brick and gran- 
ite, exhibiting an improved style of ar- 
chitecture. The building.s here, also, are 
generally occupied for dwellings, except 
the lower stories of those on Washington 
street. 

South Boston is that section of the 
city which is separated from the penin- 
sula, ov the ancient town, by an arm of 
the harbor reaching to Roxbury. It con- 
tains about five hundred and sixty acres, 
and, except East Boston, is the newest 
and most unsettled part of the city. The 
population has increased rapidly witliin 
a i'ew yea IS, and a considerable number 
of buildintrs has been erected, chiefly of 
brick. This once was a part of Dorches- 
ter, and embraces the hills known for- 
merly as Dorchester heights, so famed 
in the annals of the American Revolu- 
tion. There are two free bridges that 
connect this with the older part of the 
city: one is at ihe South End, near the 
Neck ; the other leads from Windmill 
point, and was built in 1828. 

East Bo.ston is an island, formerly 
known as Maverick's, Noddle's, and Wil- 
liams' island. In 1814, the citizens of 
Boston erected a fort on iis eastern ex- 
tremity, which was called Fort Strong. 
In 1830, some eight or ten of the most 
enterprising capitalists of Boston pur- 
chased this island, and commenced lay- 
ing it out into streets and lots, with a 
view of making it an important part (;f 
the city. Among the important improve- 
ments in East Boston, we enumerate — 
first, the introduction of the Cochituate 
water by the city of Boston ; second, the 
construction of the Grand Junction rail- 
road ; third, the construction of the sea- 
wall across the basin, thus reclaiming a 
large quantity of low lands which were 
hitherto partially covered by the tide- 
wateis. These lands C(msist of maish 
and flats to the extent of about ninety- 
five acres, lying between Westwood is- 
land and the Eastern railroad. The pop- 
ulation of East Boston is about twelve or 
fifteen thousand. It has a deep-water 
frontage of seventeen thousand feet, and 
the Cunard steamers have here a wharf. 



78 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



The Boston Common. — This is a 
large and beautiful public square, in the 
western part of the city, lighted by gas, 
encircled by an iron fence, and extend- 
ing down the long and gentle slope of 
Beacon hill. It contains about forty- 
three acres, exclusive of the malls which 
surround it, and the botanic garden west 
of it, the whole comprehending at least 
seventy-five acres of open land dedicated 
to the public. In spring and summer, 
when covered with a coat of verdant 
grass, and while the numerous fine trees 
which- shade it are in full foliage, the 
sight is remarkably striking, and can not 
be contemplated without admiration, as 
one of the largest and most beautiful 
public grounds in America. Beingslight- 
ly relieved by several swells and depres- 
sions, it is remarkably well adapted to the 
manoeuvring and encampment of troops, 
to which it is devoted on days of military 
display. In the centi-e of this park there 
is a beautiful piece of water, known by 
the name of "Frog-jjond,'" of about half 
an acre in e.xtent, and enclosed by edge- 
stones of hammered granire. It is now 
ornamented with a beauiiful fountain. 

Near this pond, and souih of it, stands 
the celebrated old elm, which for nearly 
two centuries has triumphed over the 
he.ats of summer and the blasts of win- 
ter, and under whose shade were for- 
merly held the drumhead courts-martial 
and the parades of military executions. 

Before 1733, rows of trees had been 
planted on some parts of the common, 
as, in that year, it was resolved that more 
should be planted. Since that time the 
trees have been greatly multiplied, so that 
the common is at present surrounded with 
broad and shady avenues, wliere, on the 
smooth gravel-walks, thousands of citi- 
zens find a favorite retreat from heat, and 
the enjoyment of a cool breeze, on the 
summer evenings. The number of elms 
now exceeds seven hundred ; and these 
are, in some parts, tastefully intermin- 
gled with other kinds of trees, lining the 
numerous shady paths which lead across 
the grounds around their circuit, or by 
winding courses up and down the gentle 
declivities. 

On three sides the common is bordered 
by long ranges of stalely mansions, being 



a favorite part of the city on account of 
its fine sceneiy, free air, and retirement. 
On the west it looks down on Charles 
river, there spreading out into a wide 
bay. 

The Statehouse. — Overlooking the 
common from the summit of Beacon hill, 
on its northernside, stands the statehouse. 
This elegant and spacious edifice was 
erected in 1795. The building is seen 
at a great distance in all directions, and 
is the principal object visible when the 
city is first seen by those who vi>it it. 
The form is oblong, being one hundred 
and seventy-three feet in front, and sixiy- 
one feet deep. The height of the build- 
ing, including the dome, is one hundied 
and ten feet; and the foundation is about 
that height above the level of the water 
of the bay. It consists externally of a 
basement story twenty feet high, and a 
principal story thirty feet high. This, in 
the centre of the front, is covered with 
an attic sixty feet wide, and twenty feet 
high, which is covered with a pediment. 
Immediately above rises the dome, fifiy 
feet in diameter, and thirty in height — 
the whole terminating with an elegant 
circular lantern, which supports a pine 
cone. The basement story is finished in 
a plain style on the wings, with square 
windows. The centre is ninety-four feet 
in length, and formed of arches which 
project ff)urteen feet, and make a cov- 
ered walk below, and support a ccilon- 
nade of Corinthian columns of the same 
extent above. 

A beautiful statue of Washington, by 
Chantrey, was procured by private sub- 
scription, and placed in the statehouse in 
the year 1828. The costume is a mili- 
tary cloak, which displays the figure to 
advantage. The effect is imposing and 
good; but, instead of confining himself 
to a close delineation of features, liic 
sculptor, like Canova, has allowed some 
latitude to his genius in expressing his 
idea of the character of the subject. 

The view from the top of the state- 
house is very extensive and variegated ; 
perhaps nothing in the country is supe- 
rior to it. To the east appears the bay 
and harbor of Boston, interspersed with 
beautiful islands; and the distance be- 
yond, the wide-extended ocean. To the 



so 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



north the eye is met by Charlestown, 
with its interesting and memorable heights 
and the navy-yard of the United States; 
the towns of Chelsea, Maiden, and Med- 
ford, and other villages, and the iiatiirHl 
foiests mingling in the distant horizon. 
To the west, is a fine view of the Charles 
river and bay; the ancient town of Cam- 
bridge, rendered venerable for the uni- 
versity, nf)w above two hundred years 
old ; of the flourishing villages of Cam- 
bridgeport and East Cambridge, in the 
latter of which is a large glass manufac- 
tuiing establishment ; of the highly culti- 
vated towns of Brighton, Brookline, and 
Newton : and to the south is Roxbury, 
whicii seems to be only a continuation 
of Boston, and which is rapidly increas- 
ing ; Dorchester, a fine, rich, agricultural 
town, with Milton and Quincy beyond ; 
and still farther south, the Blue hills, at 
the distance of eight or nine miles, which 
seem to bound the prospec^t. 

Near the capifol, on the west, is the 
mansion-house of tlie eminent patriot the 
late John Hancock, now exhibiting quite 
an ancient appearance. On the same 
side, and farther west, rising from the 
rich foliage which surrounds the specta- 
tor in the common, conspicuous among 
many fine edifices, stands the mansion 
of the Hon. David Sears — a gentleman 
of large landed property, distinguished 
among those remarkable men of Boston 
to whom tlie literature and charities of 
the country owe so much. 

The plan proposed by Mr. Sears for 
the enlargement and improvement of Bos- 
ton, by reclaiming the waste spot t)f ter- 
ritory back of the public garden, is one 
so intimately connected with the welfare 
and growth of that city, that our de.scrip- 
tion of the metropolis of New England 
would be imperfect without a brief no- 
tice of it. We have, when visiting Bos- 
ton, and realizing its rapid growth and 
crowded streets, looked upon this im- 
mense basin, which, save as a daily re- 
cipient of the olfal and impurities of 
stieets and dwelling-houses, has long 
been lying idle (the water-power created 
b}^ it being a failure, and now disused, 
and the Water-power Company turning 
their power into a land-speculation), with 
a feeling of regret that it could not be 



handsomely impi-oved, and made to min- 
ister to the health, the pleasure, and the 
comfort of the residents of that beautiful 
city. 

During the year 1849, Mr. Sears ad- 
dressed a letter to the mayor and alder- 
men of Boston, suggesting a plan of im- 
provement of this waste spot, to be effect- 
ed through an amicable adjustment of 
the several proprietary interests therein. 
This proposition of Mr. Sears led to the 
appointment of a commission, on the 
part of the state, to examine into " the 
tenure of the property, and the rights of 
individuals, of towns, and of the state 
therein ;" and which may be looked upon 
as an initiatory or preparatory step to its. 
future improvement. The plan of Mr. 
Sears for rendering available and beau- 
tifying this basin, can be seen in the 
diagram on page 83 ; and its details will 
be found in the following letter to the 
state commissioners, which we publish en- 
tire, as it embraces extracts from the let- 
ter to the mayor and aldermen referred 
to above, and will give a clearer idea of 
the proposed improvement than any ex- 
planations from us could possibly do : — 

"Boston, December 16, 1850. 
" To the Honorable the Commissioners, ^c. 

" Gentlemen : Among the questions 
which may fairly come within your ex- 
amination, under warrant from the legis- 
lature, is the following, viz. : the best 
plan, having reference to the public, for 
filling up the Back bay, and making that 
waste of waters available for useful pur- 
poses. 

" This subject is distinctfrom the rights 
of property, and does not implicate any 
of those questions which have been so 
ably argued before you. Yet it is of 
importance to us all, since it may serve 
as a starting-point from which the par 
ties interested may hereafter more easily 
advance to an amicable adjustment ; and 
it is of especial value at this stage of the 
matter, because the rights of all to tlie 
area of land lying between the bounda- 
ries of the riparian proprietors of the 
city of Roxbury and the boundary of the 
city of Boston being as yet unsettled, a 
common plan of improvement can be 
more readily adopted than if said area 




'''Wiiiiii|i^lilii!i;iii;iilj|j|j|i|j|^^ 



82 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



was definitively adjudged to be the prop- 
erty of either. 

" In addition to the above, it seems to 
me that the peculiar tenure of this land 
— if the original interest of the state is 
doubtfully merged by specific grants and 
easements to various parties — renders it 
proper that the commonwealth, as sov- 
ereign, should still extend over it a pro- 
tecting arm, and so regulate its future oc- 
cupation as to make it, as far as is prac- 
ticable, an ornament to the metropolis, a 
pride to the city of Roxbury, and a scheme 
worthy the name and reputation of the 
state which grants it. 

" Under this view of the subject, I have 
the honor to present to your board, and 
to make part of your report, a plan simi- 
lar to that I lately offered for the exami- 
nation of the mayor and aldermen of the 
city of Boston, atid which I beg you to 
regard as suggestive only, and as the 
basis of a more detailed draught, to be 
worked out by others, for this valuable 
improvement. 

" The principal features of the I'eser- 
vations proposed, and to be ordered by 
the state wlienever the parties in interest 
— the Boston Water-power Company or 
others — shall apply for the right to fill up 
and use for building purposes the above- 
named area of land, are the following, 
namely : Tliat a pond or lake of water, 
of not less than twenty-five acres of sur- 
face, be for ever kept open for public 
use and ornament, beginning at a point 
in the city of Boston where Boylston 
stieet, continued, terminates at the boun- 
dary line of the city in the receiving- 
basin of the Boston Water-power Com- 
pany, and extending in a westerly direc- 
tion until it reaches the western boundary 
of the flats claimed by the city of Roxbu- 
ry : that not less than four public squares, 
lying within the receiving-basin, and east- 
erly of the boundaries of the above-named 
riparian proprietors, and southerly and 
westerly of the Neck-lots and other lands 
near the boundaries of the city of Boston, 
of at least six hundred feet by four hun- 
dred, be laid out and for ever kept open 
for ornament and air : that all the prin- 
cipal streets shall be fifty feet wide : that 
no street shall be less tlian thirty feet 
wide : and that the whole shall be drained 



in a manner to be approved of by the 
cities of Roxbury and Boston. 

" In my letter on the above subject, 
addressed to the mayor and aldermen 
of the city of Boston, and dated June 
11, 1849, the fijllowing suggestions were 
made, viz. : ' That the Botanic (or pub- 
lic) Garden should be extended some 
hundreds of feet until it reaches a broad 
and circular avenue, enclosing within its 
area from fifty to seventy-five acres of 
water: the avenue to be at least one 
hundred feet wide on the top, and bor- 
dered on both sides by elms and other 
ornamental trees : the water of the lake 
to be supplied by an aqueduct from the 
flour and other mills on the cross-dam, 
and emptied into Charles river by a suf- 
ficient raceway : the depth of the lake 
to be three feet below low-water mark, 
and with a gravelled bottom : the flats 
to be filled up to a level with Charles 
street, and laid out with public squares 
and other ornamental places, as shown 
on the plan. 

" ' This project, if ever carried into 
effect, will give to the city, at a small 
comparative cost, a large amount of tax- 
able property ; an extensive and beauti- 
ful Botanic Garden, terminated by a lake 
of pure water, equal in size, or larger, 
than the present Common; and a broad 
and splendid promenade, not to be sur- 
passed by any in the world. 

'* ' The lake will be in itself an end- 
less source of amusement to the public — 
a fit place for evening music, for boat- 
races and aquatic sports in the summer, 
for skating exhibitions in the winter, and 
for fireworks and other public displays 
on the 4th of July and holydays. 

" ' In the hope that these suggestions 
may be of service, and if of no other 'use, 
perhaps the means of eliciting a more 
advisable mode of relieving the city of a 
nuisance, and preparing the way for a 
more desirable embellishment of her pub- 
lic grounds, I have the honor of laying 
the plan before you.' 

" The same purpose which called forth 
this letter still exists, and the same wish 
remains to see this improvement carried 
out. 

" Should the state, as is believed, not 
contemplate a beneficiary interest in the 



84 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



matter, but regard its rigVit — be it more 
or less — only as a means of seeing jus- 
tice done to the public, then I can not 
doubt that it will readily approve the 
principles I have laid dow^n in reference 
to a general flan; and even if it should 
determine otherwise, still the advantages 
of a preliminary movement of the kind 
herein suggested must be obvious to ev- 
ery thinking person who examines it, 

" With great respect, I have the honor 
to be your obedient servant, 

" David Sears. 

"Hon. Simon Greenleaf, Chairman of Commissionera 
concerning Boston Harbor and Back Bay." 

The advantages which will result from 
this improvement are incalculable. One 
benefit to the city will be, the creation 
of a large amount of taxable property at 
little or no expense to it, except drains 
and streets, while it will also benefit indi- 
vidually every real-estate owner, trader, 
and resident, in Boston. Whatever tends 
to beautify the city and render it more 
henlthy, has the additional tendency to 
an increase of population and of busi- 
ness, thereby enabling all to share in the 
advantages of such a scheme as is now 
proposed. The water-works which have 
recently been completed at an immense 
cost, to furnish an unfailing supply of that 
important article to the whole popula- 
tion, present a strong inducement to fam- 
ilies to move into the city, and will be 
the means of keeping multitudes from 
seeking residences in the suburban towns 
and villages, in preference to the city, as 
was formerly the case on account of the 
difficulty of obtaining wholesome water 
in the latter. 

It is characteristic of the Bostonian to 
feel a just pride in the success of any 
measure which is designed to adorn his 
city, and make it more and more truly 
" the pride of New England." And this 
project is one that meets with so much 
favor, that it will undoubtedly at no dis- 
tant day be adopted, and thus place Bos- 
ton in the front rank of her sister-cities 
in point of health and beauty. 

The mansion of Mr. Sears, before re- 
ferred to, a view of which is on the oppo- 
site page, is in a plain, massive style of 
architecture, but has a light and plea^g 
effect, being constriicteil <if white ijran- 



ite, and having the front broken by two 
semi-circular projections, like round tow- 
ers, extending from the ground to the 
roof, and affording to the three stories 
abundant light, and commanding views 
of the beautiful and extensive scenery 
spread out around. 

Tn this vicinity ai'e numerous fine and 
costly dwellings, the residences of dis- 
tinguished gentlemen — of the princely 
merchants, the Lawrences and Apple- 
tons — -of the eminent lawyers, Choate, 
Otis, and Mason — of the historian Pres- 
cott; and many others. Costly build- 
ings may likewise be seen on the several 
streets which have, chiefly within the last 
twenty years, been built up parallel and 
at right angles with the north line of the 
common, on the upper slope of Beacon 
hill ; but none surpass, in size or effect, 
the fine mansion depicted and described. 

There are several other edifices on dif- 
ferent sides of the common which merit 
more particular notice than we have roum 
to give them. Park-street church stands 
on the eastern side, and is one of the old- 
est churches in the city. The Gothic ma- 
sonic temple and St. Paul's church, on 
the south, and other places of worship 
of diffei'ent denominations, are seen in 
the neighborhood, adding variety by their 
different forms and styles of architecture. 

The Massachusetts General Hospital, 
with its two departments — its hospital 
for the sick and its asylum for the insane 
— is one of the largest and most impor- 
tant of the charitable institutions of the 
state. It was incorporated in 1811. It 
vi'as designed to afford relief to invalids, 
to reach the necessities of every class qf 
persons, and to yield its benefits at the 
lowest possible rate. The act of incor- 
poration granted to the hospital a fee 
simple in the old Province-house estate, 
on the condition that one hundred thou- 
sand dollars was raised within ten years. 
Special donations for this object, amount- 
ing to over one hundred and forty thou- 
sand dollars, were made in 1816, and the 
estates were purchased where the two 
departments of the institution have been 
located. Its endowments now amount to 
about one million of dollars. The hospi- 
tal for the sicK, erected in a spacious en- 
closure of four acres in Allen street, is 



86 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



one of the most imposing edifices in Bos- 
ton. The asylum for the insane is beau- 
tifully situated on a rising ground within 
the quiet precincts of the adjoining town 
of Somerville. Nearly fourteen thousand 
patients have received the benefits of the 
former department of the institution, and 
more than thirty-threehundred have been 
inmates of the latter. The gi-eatest dis- 
covery of the age — the power of produ- 
cing insensibility to pain — has gone forlh 
from the one ; while the humane treat- 
ment, and the high professional skill, 
evinced in the other, have extended its 
leputation throughout the length and the 
breadth of the land, and gathered within 
its walls sufferers alike from the frozen 
north and the sunny south. One of its 
earliest and most active advocates was 
Dr. John C. Warren. He was appoint- 
ed acting surgeon on its first organiza- 
tion in 1817; and down to the present 
time, a period of thirty-four years, he has 
continued assiduously at his arduous post 
of duty and of honor. 

The New England Institution for the 
Education of the Blind is one of the 
largest and most prosperous establish- 
ments of the kind in the Union, and very 
liberally endowed by public and private 
donations. It was incorporated in 1829, 
and in 1833 was presented, by Thomas 
H. Perkins, with his valuable mansion- 
house in Pearl street, worth thirty thou- 
sand dollars, and by individuals with fifty 
thousand dollars. The Perkins mansion 
was subsequently exchanged for the pres- 
ent edifice on Mount Washington, South 
Boston. Later donations have increased 
the funds of the institution. 

The Customhouse. — This building is 
htcated at the foot of State street, be- 
tween the heads of Long and Central 
wharves, fronting east on the dock be- 
tween them, and on the west fronting 
India street, which is its principal front. 
The building is in the form of a cross ; 
the extieme length is one hundred and 
forty feet, extreme breadth ninety-five ; 
the longest arms of the cross are seven- 
ty-five feet wide, and the shortest sixty- 
seven feet. The base of the building 
is nine feet high, the columns ihirty-two 
feet, entablature ten and two thirds feet, 
pediment eight and one third feet, and 



dome at the intersection of the cross 
twenty-nine feet above that ; — making 
the whole height, from the sidewalk to 
the top of the dome, ninety feet. The 
style of architecture is the pure Gre- 
cian Doric. Each front has a portico 
of six fluted Doric columns, thirty-two 
feet high and five feet four inches in di- 
ameter, approached by a flight of four- 
teen steps, which are equal in height to 
the base of the building. The walls of 
the building are composed of sixteen 
three-quarter columns, four nearly full 
columns at the corner, all of the same 
height and diameter as those of the por- 
ticoes; and four antae, thirty-two feet in 
height, five feet one inch by three feet 
eight inches at the intersection of the 
cross. The columns are each in one 
piece, of highly-wrought granite, costing 
about five thousand dollars. 

The building is founded on about three 
thousand piles, driven in the most thor- 
ough manner; immediately on the heads 
of these is laid a platform of granite, in 
the best hydraulic-cement mortar. The 
large central business-room is sixty-five 
by sixty-eight feet, and sixty feet high to 
the skyliglit of the dome, and is finished 
in a very elaborate maimer in the Cor- 
inthian order. There are twelve fluted 
marble columns, three feet in diameter 
by twenty-nine feet high, highly wrought 
out of Egremont marble, liaving capitals 
of Italian marble, designed and wrought 
here, of the most chaste and classic char- 
acter. The rest of the interior is finished 
in a plain and simple style, and fireproof 
throughout, having mostly stone floors, 
iron doors, &c. 

The building is warmed and ventilated 
by an apparatus, the heating being com- 
bined with the ventilation, and effected 
in part by mechanical means. 

Faneuil-Hall Market. — This market 
is of granite, and has a centre building, 
seventy-four and a half by fifty-five feet, 
with wings, extending in all five hundred 
and thirty-six feet, with a fine facade at 
each end, with granite columns of single 
pieces, twenty-one feet high, and weigh- 
ing each fourteen or fifteen tons. A row 
of granite buildings on each side, four 
stories high, for stores, is more than five 
hundred feet in length. 



88 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 




Sons of Liberty 1766. 
Independence of their Country, 1776. 



Faneuii, Hall. — This old building, 
so intimately associated with our revolu- 
tionary history, was erected in 1742, by 
Peter Faneuil, Esq., who presented it 
to the town of Boston. It was consider- 
ably enlarged in 1805, and the following 
are its present dimensions : length, one 
hundred feet; breadth, eighty feet; height, 
three stories ; great hall in the second 
story, used for public meetings, seventy- 
six feet square, and twenty-eight high ; 
hall for military trainings, in the third 
story, seventy-eight feet by thirty. The 
basement story is devoted to stores. A 
broad staircase, entered from the east 
front, leads to the second and third sto- 
ries. The great hall has gallei'ies on 
three sides, supported by Doric columns ; 
two rows of Ionic columns support the 
ceiling. Stuart's portrait of Washing- 
ton, and a portrait ofits f )under, orna- 
ment this fine hall. 

The Liberty-Tree. — The above en- 
graving of tlie Liberty-Tree, so famous 
in the revolutionary annals of Boston, as 
it appeared just previous to its destruc- 



tion by the British troops and tories du- 
ring the siege of that town, in August, 
1775, is copied from a bas-relief repre- 
sentation, placed, by the Hon. David 
Sears, in a niche of a block of fine build- 
ings which he has recently erected up- 
on the site of an old grove of elms, of 
which this tree was one. This sculptured 
representation is placed exactly over the 
spot where the Liberty-Tree stood. Why 
can not the patriotic feeling and the prov- 
ident care, which prompted this act on 
the part of Mr. Sears, be followed in 
rescuing from oblivion others of the ma- 
ny localities so interesting and so worthy 
of being held in perpetual remembrance, 
from their association with events during 
the most trying period of our country's 
history ? The silent though no less cer- 
tainly destructive hand of decay, and the 
improvements required by the rapid in- 
crease of population and settlement, in 
both country and city, are fast sweeping 
away every vesiige by which the locali- 
ties so reverenced are recognised ; and 
he who sets up any landmarks by which 



90 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



they may be known, as Mr. Sears has 
done on the site of the Liberty-Tree, 
deserves and will receive the grateful 
thanks of posterity. 

The following letter from Mr. Sears 
to the mayor and city council of Boston, 
is so i-eplete with interesting incidents 
connected with the history of this tree, 
that we can not repress the inclination 
to place it on record in the pages of this 
volume. We take it from a copy print- 
ed by order of the city council of Bos- 
ton, for the use of the members of the 
city government : — 

"Beacon Street, Boston, > 
Sept. 29, 1849. \ 
" To the Honorable the Mnyor 

and Aldermen of the City of Boston : — 

" G e;«jtlemen : I have the honor to 
inform you that the old buildings at the 
corner of Essex and Washington streets 
have been removed, and that an exten- 
sive block of warehouses is being erected 
in their places, to cover the whole front 
of my estate on these two streets. 

" As this site is somewhat remarkable 
in the history of Boston — it having sus- 
tained, and for more than a century nour- 
ished, a splendid American elm, known 
and venerated as ' Lihey-ty-Tree' — the 
present seems a fit occasion to bring it 
to your notice. 

" The tree was supposed to have been 
planted in 1646, and was cut down by 
the British in 1775. La Fayette, in his 
visit to Boston, said, ' The world should 
never forget the spot where once stood 
Liberty-Tree, so famous in your annals.' 

" In accordance with this sentiment, 
I have ventured to address this letter to 
you — to make record of certain facts, 
and to note the changes connected with 
this historic corner. And, believing that 
I shall respond to the general feeling of 
my fellow-citizens on this subject, I have 
caused to bo sculptured, in bas-relief, a 
representation of this celebrated tree, 
with appropriate inscriptions, and have 
inserted it in that part of the building 
which fronts on Washington street, and 
directly over the spot where the tree it- 
self formerly stood. 

" The following facts and reminiscen- 
ces I have gleaned from various authori- 
ties — principally from Snow's ' History 



of Boston,' and from the public records 
of 1775. 

"On the 22d of March, in 1765, the 
king of Great Britain gave his assent to 
the stamp-act. This act was extremely 
odious to the people, and the colonies 
regarding it as ' taxation without repre- 
sentation,' and therefore * tyranny,* were 
determined to oppose it. The ciiizens 
of Boston had some time before (in 17G1) 
resisted, upon the same principle, anf>th- 
er tyrannous act, called ' writs of assist- 
ance;' and the feeling, though somewhat 
allayed, was still wartn in their bosoms, 
and ready to be brought into action. 

" The colonies had earnestly and sep- 
arately remonstrated against the stamp- 
act. They looked upon it as the brass 
collar of servitude to be riveted on their 
necks, to mark them for the born serfs 
of George IIL ; and this they would not 
submit to. Boston, in particular, showed 
a strong opposition to the act, and re- 
solved at all hazards to maintain her lib- 
erties and the privileges of the charter 
of Massachusetts ; though she well knew 
that, being no favorite in England, the 
vengeance of that mighty power would 
be chiefly turned against her in any con- 
test that might ensue. Her citizens, how- 
ever, undismayed in their purpose, while 
they felt that in the coming struggle were 
staked their property and their lives, did 
not hesitate to venture both against un- 
lawful oppression. In this sentiment the 
whole population were united; and the 
talents, the property, and the religion 
of Boston stood shoulder to shoulder in 
the subsequent terrific struggle between 
might and right. No boastful threaten- 
ings marked their course, but on they 
went as men — cool, determined, and in- 
flexible, straightforward to their end — 
the independence of their country. 

" In the early history of Boston, it ap- 
pears that ' near the head of Essex street 
formerly stood a grove of those majestic 
elms, of the American species, which 
form one of the greatest ornaments in 
the landscapes of our country. This 
grove had obtained the name of Hano- 
ver square, or neighborhood of the elms.' 

" Under one of these trees, and nearly 
opposite to the present Boylston market, 
the people of Boston assembled on the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



91 



14th day of August, 1765, and exhibited 
the first plain evidence of i-esistance to 
the oppressive course of their misguided 
fatherland. A single act of riot — the 
pulling dow^n of a shed, supposed to 
have been erected for a stamp-office — 
marked this meeting, and for a time over- 
shadow^ed the holiness of their purpose. 
It proved, however, to be but the intoxi- 
cation of a moment, and was never re- 
peated.* The building was afterward, 
with an apology, paid for. The name 
of ' Liberty-Tree' was then given to this 
noble elm, and from that time it became 
'a sort of idol to the people.' Law and 
order, charter rights and })roperty, were 
nourished at its roots, and liberty ripened 
under its spreading branches. On the 
14th of February, 1766, it was pruned 
in the best manner, agreeably to a vt)te 
passed by the ' Sons of Liberty,' an as- 
sociation long before known as a club 
of gentlemen, united for mutual protec- 
tion, and to resist oppression, and which 
first assumed that name, and called upon 
the pati-iotic citizens of Bost(jn to join 
them, in the early part of the preceding 
December. 

" The 20th of February of this 1766 
had been agreed upon for burning one 
of the stamped papers in the principal 
towns in each of the colonies ; and in Bos- 
ton the ceremony was conducted with 
great decency and order. It also is re- 
corded that, on the <J4th, a vessel having 
airivedfrom Jamaica with stamped clear- 
ances, the ' Sons of Liberty' immediately 
M'ut an order to one of their members to 
;^o and demand in their names those marks 
of Creole slavery. The person to whom 
it was directed went to the vessel, and, 
being told that the master had gone to 
the customhouse, followed him there — 
' when, upon the above order being 
shown, the stamped clearance was given 
up. It was then carried to King (now 
State) street, and publicly burned, a Son 
of Liberty standing by the paper while 



• The Sons of Liberty had no part in the destruc- 
tion of property at Lieutenant-Governor Hutihinson's 
house. Their rallying cries were " Liberty and Prop- 
erly" — " Law and Order" — but in this case they were 
overpowered by a mob of misguided men, led on by 
a rabble of boys and thieves. They always lamented 
the act as a disgrace cast upon the cause of freedom. 
—Ed. 



it was burning, and shouting to the crowd 
these words : " Behold the smoke ascends 
to heaven to witness between the isle of 
Britain and an injured people !" Three 
cheers were then given, and in a few 
minutes every man, woman, and child, 
retired from the street without the least 
disorder and in silence.' 

" On the 15th of the following May, 
news was received of the repeal of the 
stamp-act. The joy of the inhabitants 
of Boston was great. The bells were 
rung from every church, and a cannon 
was fired under ' Liberty-Tree.' The 
19th was appointed a day of general re- 
joicing; 'Liberty-Tree' was decorated 
with flags and colors, and at the windows 
of the houses near it were clustered the 
daughters of our distinguished citizens, 
dressed in gay attire, and adorned with 
garlands of flowers. In the evening 'fire- 
works were everywhere played off — the 
air was filled with rockets, the ground 
with beehives and serpents. The gentry 
gave elegant entertainments, and Mr. 
Hancock treated the people with a pipe 
of Madeira.' On the common, the Sons 
of Liberty ei^ected a magnificent pyra- 
mid, illuminated with variegated lamps, 
and all was bright and joyous. At about 
midnight, at a signal given, and by beat 
of drum, the inhabitants quietly retired 
to their respective dwellings, the lights 
were put out, and the town was hushed 
in its usual silence. 

" These rejoicings had been ushered 
in by a subscription for liberating all the 
poor persons confined in jail for debt, 
and thus enable them freely to partake 
of the general joy. 

" The ministers of religion also bore 
their part in these scenes ; and the ser- 
mons of Drs. Mayhew, Chauncey, and 
others, were printed. 

" In the month of August, 1776, tltis 
celebrated tree was cut down ' by the 
enemies of liberty and America, headed 
by General Gage.' A party, armed with 
axes, made an attack upon it, and, after 
much labor, levelled it with the ground. 
A Son of Liberty, at Cambridge, gave 
public notice of its fall, and added these 
prophetic words : ' But, be it known to 
this infamous band of traitors, that the 
grand American tree of liberty, planted 



92 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



in the centre of the united colonies of 
North America, now flourishes with un- 
rivalled beauty, and bids fair, in a short 
time, to afford under its wide-spi'eading 
branches a safe and happy retreat for all 
the sons of liberty, however numerous 
and dispersed.' 

" What was then prophecy, has now 
become history. 

" Very respectfully, 

" Your obedient, humble servant, 
" David Sears." 

The Athenaum, in Beacon street, is 
open daily to strangers introduced by 
members, and contains a valuable libra- 
ry of about forty thousand volumes, and 
about fourteen thousand coins and med- 
als. In the rear is the gallery of fine 
arts, with a collection of statues, paint- 
ings, &c. The Massachusetts Historical 
Society's library is in Tremont street. 

Theatres. — The theatres of Boston 
are limited in number, and rather ordi- 
nary in appearance. They are as fol- 
lows : 1. The National theatre, corner 
of Portland and Travers streets. 2. The 
Bf)Ston theatre, formerly known as the 
Odeon,in Federal street. 3. The How- 
ard Athenaeum, in Howard street. Kim- 
ball's museum, in Tremont street, is also 
open f )r theatrical performances. 

Boston Water- Works. — The Co- 
cliituate aqueduct for the introduction 
(if pure and wholesome water into the 
city was completed in 1848. The cost 
of construction was over three millions 
of dollars. The water is brought in an 
oval brick aqueduct, above six feet in 
height, about fourteen and a half miles 
from the Cochituate lake to Brookline. 
where it discharges itself into a reservoir 
of more than twenty acres in extent. 
From Brookline the water is forced by 
its own pressure through pipes of thirty 
and thirty-five inches in diameter, to tlie 
two reservoirs in the city. The one on 
Mount Washington, at South Boston, has 
a superfices of seventy thousand, and the 
other on Beacon hill of thirty-eight thou- 
sand feet. The latter contains, when full, 
three millions of gallons. This reservoir 
enables them to have a fountain on the 
common, which throws a jet to a great 
height. The two reservoirs will (lelivc' 



to the city of Boston ten millions of gal- 
lons a day, of the purest and best water, 
decided by chymists to be equal to that 
of the Croton of New York. 

Public Schools. — The educational 
system of Massachusetts has been no- 
ticed on a previous page. The sums 
spent in the city of Boston alone for pub- 
lic instruction — larger than in all Great 
Britain — are almost entirely a voluntary 
offering. The laws of the commonwealth, 
even as early as 1647, it is true, require 
the support of public schools in all the 
towns within its jurisdiction; but a sin- 
gle school will meet the demands of the 
law in most tov/ns ; and in Boston itself, 
three schools and three teachers only 
would meet the intent of the statute : two 
of these must be teachers " comptHent to 
instruct children in orthography, reading, 
writing,English grammar, arithmetic, and 
good behavior;" and the other must be 
" a master of competent ability and good 
morals, who shall, in addition to the 
branches of learning before mentioned, 
give instruction in the history of the Uni- 
ted States, book-keeping, surveying, ge- 
ometry, and algebra ; the Latin and Greek 
languages, general history, rhetoric, and 
logic." These three teachers might cost 
the city, at the present rate of salaries, 
about four thousand five hundred dollars, 
with the expense of interest for houses 
added ; in all, perhaps, seven thousand 
d(jllars. Instead, however, of being sat- 
isfied to fulfil the letter of the excellent 
law, the citizens of Boston take pride in 
supporting a Latin school, an Enghsh high 
school, twenty-two grammar-schools, and 
some two hundred primary schools, with a 
corps of three hundred and seventy teach- 
ers, whose combined salaries amount to 
a hundred and seventy-five thousand dol- 
lars. Add to this a million dollars vested 
in sclioolhouses, besides apparatus and 
incidental expenses of superintendence, 
fuel, &c., and the sacrifice of property fin- 
the good of posterity stands foith without 
a parallel in the Union. 

Boston Asylum and Farvi-School. — 
In 1813 several gentlemen formed a soci- 
ety for the relief and education of such 
boys as might be found destitute of pa- 
rental and friendly superintendence. In 
February, 1814, an act of incorporation 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



93 



was granted thorn, and the society was 
organized, with the title of the " Boston 
Asylum for Indigent Boys." For many 
years it was located at the corner of Sa- 
lem and Charter streets, in the house for- 
merly occupied by Governor Phips. On 
the 9th of June, 1835, the boys, fifty-two 
in number, were removed to Thom])Son's 
island, which is within the limils of the 
city, about four miles from the city-hall. 
. A number of gentlemen in Boston were 
desirous that an institution should be es- 
tablished there, to which children either 
already corrupted, or beyond parental 
control, might be sent withnut the inter- 
vention of a legal conviction and sen- 
tence; and in which such employments 
might be pursued by the children as 
would make the institution, in the strict- 
est sense, a school of industry. A plan 
for this object was submitted to a few 
gentlemen, by whom it was approved 
and maiured ; and a meeting was held 
in the hall of the Tremont bank on the 
27th of January, 1832, when a board of 
directors was chosen. Subscription pa- 
pers were opened, and twenty-three thou- 
sand dollars were soon t)btained. In the 
summer of 1833 following, Thompson's 
island, containing one hundred and forty 
acres, was purchased for the objects of 
the institution ; and a building is now 
completed there, which, besides ample 
accommodations for the officers of the 
establishment, is quite sufficient for the 
charge of more than three hundred chil- 
dren. A suggestion having been made 
of the expediency of connecting the pro- 
posed farm-school with the asylum for 
indigent boys, conferences were held be- 
tween the directors of these institutions ; 
and in March, 1835, they were united 
under the style of the " Boston Asylum 
and Farm-School." 

The objects of the present institution 
are to rescue from the ills and the temp- 
tations of poverty and neglect, those who 
have been left without a parent's care; 
to reclaim from moral exposure those 
who are treading the paths of danger ; 
and to offijr to those whose only training 
would otherwise have been in the walks 
of vice, if not of crime, the greatest bles- 
sing which New England can be-tow 
up»n her most favored sons. The occu- 



pations and employments of the boys va- 
ry with the season. In spring, summer, 
and autumn, the larger boys work upon 
the garden and farm. The younger boys 
have small gardens of their own, which 
afford them recreation when released 
fi'om school. In the winter, most of them 
attend school. Their library contains 
about five hundred volumes. 

Bridges. — Some of the most striking 
objects in the neighborhood of Boston 
are the bridges which lead from it to 
various points. There are no less than 
seven principal ones, besides several 
branches. The expense at which they 
have been constructed, and are kept in 
repair, is very great; and they furnish 
great facilities for strangers desirous of 
making excursions to the surrounding 
country. The Milldam bridge, or West- 
ern avenue, leading to Brookline, is one 
and a half miles long, and a part of the 
way one hundred feet wide. 

CiiARLESTOWN was settled in the year 
1628. It is the oldest town in Middlesex 
county, and one of the oldest in the state. 
Il derives its name from King Charles T., 
the reigning sovereign of England at that 
time. The Indian name of the settlement 
was Mishaivam. 

Charlestovvn is situated on a peninsula, 
with the harbor on the east; the Myslic 
river and Chelsea on the north ; Chailes 
river on the south ; and on the west Som- 
erville, with which it is connected by a 
narrow strip of land called " The Nerk." 
With Maiden on the northwest, Charles- 
town is connected by a bridge 2,420 feet 
in length, opened for travel on the 23d 
of September, 1788. A biidge one mile 
in length leads from the navy-yard due 
iiorth to Chelsea. This was formerly the 
great thoroughfare from Boston to Sa- 
lem, tua Chelsea and Lynn. Now the 
biidge is used for local travel only, the 
Eastern railroad being the usual means 
of conveyance to Lynn, Salem, Newbu- 
ryport, Nahant, thence to Portsmouth, 
Portland, &c. 

At Charlestown are the stateprison, 
conducted on the improved plan; Bun- 
ker-hill monument ; the United States 
navy-yard, with dry-dock, ship-houses, 
&c. ; and the M'Lean insane asylum. 

BunlnT-IiU J Monument. — On the 17th 



94 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



i)f June, 1825, the iiftieth anniversary of 
tlie memorable ba'tle of Bunker's hill, 
the corner-stone of this monument was 
laid in an angle of the old redoubt on 
Breed's hill, an inferior eminence behind 
Chailestown. The base, a mass of foui'- 
teen thousand tons' weight, is laid thir- 
teen feet deep, and has six courses of 
stone to the surface, the first of which is 
fifty feet on each side. Above this a pyr- 
amidal obelisk, thirty feet square, rises 
tapeiing, two hundred and thirteen feet 
four inches on the ground, and fifteen 
feet at the top. It is composed of eighty 
courses of stone, each two feet eight inch- 
es thick. A winding stone staircase in the 
inside leads to the summit, whence the 
view is fine and higlily interesting. The 
whole is built of Quincy granite. The 
laigest block in it is said fo be eleven 
feet long, two broad, and two feet eisrht 
inches high, with a weight of ten tons. 

After the battle of Bunker's hill, the 
continental troops were drawn in a more 
complete line around the town of Boston, 
which was still in possession of the Brit- 
ish, and numerous intrenchmenis may 
yet be traced out on most of the hills in 
the vicinity; but it was not till General 
Washingion had succeeded in occupy- 
ing Dorchester heights, which command 
the harbor and town fiom the southeast, 
that the British forces embarked in their 
ships and evacuated the place. 

Dorchester heights were occupied on 
the night of March 4, 1776. Eight hun- 
dred men formed the van ; then followed 
carriages, and twelve liundred pioneers 
under General Thomas, three hundred 
carts of fascines and gabions, and guns 
in the rear. Two forts were formed by 
ten o'clock at night — one toward the 
city, and the other toward Castle island. 
Preparations were made for an attack 
by the British, and for defence by the 
Americans ; but the weather prevented 
the designs of the former, consisting of 
ten thousand men, who, after pillaging 
the town, and providing for the removal 
of fifteen hundred resident loyalists, em- 
bai ked for New York, March 17, leaving 
behind a quantity of ammunition, &c. 

Villages. — The vicinity of Boston 
presents a succession of villages, prob- 
ably not to be paralleled for beauty in 



the United States. They are generally 
the residences of a number of the most 
opulent citizens during the pleasant sea- 
sons, and many of the buildings are fine 
and expensive. The grounds are also 
frequently laid out with great taste and 
highly cultivated ; so that no stranger 
who has leisure should fail to take a 
circuit through them for a few miles. 
There are several manufacturing estab- 
lishments in this vicinity, among which 
Waltham is conspicuous. 

Nahant, fourteen miles northeast from 
Boston, is a very pleasant and favorite 
resort during the warm months, being 
a fine situation, open to the sea, of easy 
access by land and water, and furnished 
with several houses for the accommoda- 
tion of visiters, particularly a large ho- 
tel. A steamboat runs thither in the 
summer, and there is a fine road which 
passes round the bay, through the town 
of Lynn (celebrated for the manufacture 
of shoes), along Lynn beach, and then 
turns off to the promontory of Nahant, 
which is a point of rough rocks of con- 
siderable elevation. 

The passage in the steamboat affords 
a fine view of Boston bay, with the city ; 
Dorchester heights on the south ; Bun- 
ker's and Breed's hills on the northwest ; 
and many other very interesting objects. 
Among the islands which foi-m the de- 
fence of the harbor, is that which con- 
tains Castle William, besides one or two 
other fortified ones — Rainsford island, 
which has the marine hospital, part of 
it quite elevated, but containing only a 
few acres ; and another on which is the 
farm-school, an interesting institution 
for boys. Salt is made in Boston bay, 
and windmills are sometimes used to 
pump the water. 

The ground near the hotel at Nahant 
has been laid out and ornamented with 
taste. The cupola on the top commands 
a fine water scene ; and during the prev- 
alence of a strong wind from the sea, 
the waves are high and magnificent, 
breaking wildly against the rocks. 

The baths are at a short distance from 
the hotel, and are quite commodious, 
furnishing one of the chief attractions 
of the place. 

The Syren's Grotto is a remarkable 



96 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



cavity in the rocks, about a quarter of 
a mile from the hotel; it has been cu- 
riously worn out by the waves. There 
are several other caverns of a similar 
character, produced in the course of 
ao-es by the constant attrition of the 
water. The Spouting Horn is a hole in 
the rocks, on the opposite side, where 
the water is thrown up in the air at par- 
ticular timt'S of tide. The rocks are of 
granite, porphyry, epidote, &c., and fur- 
nish pebbles of jasper. Pulpit rock, on 
the south, is a singular object; its top 
is almost inaccessible. The rude shores 
and the smooth beach can be best exam- 
ined at lowtide ; but those who are fond 
of sublime scenes should omit no oppor- 
tunity to visit them when the wind is 
high, particularly in a moonlight night. 

Plymouth. — This place is thirty-six 
miles south-southeast from Boston. It 
is highly interesting on account of its 
history, being the site of the first set- 
tlement made by the New England pil- 
grims, on the 22d December, 1620. A 
mass of granite rock is still shown, on 
which those who first landed stepped ; 
it has been divided, and a part of it re- 
mains buried near the shore in its nat- 
ural location, while the upper part is 
removed into the centre of the village. 

A handsome building was erected here 
in 1820, in which the New England so- 
ciety hold their annual celebrations of 
that interesting era in the history of the 
country. Burying hill, which rises near 
at hand, is the spot where a small fort 
was erected by the settlers, and where 
the graves of several of them are still to 
lie found. The banks of the brook south 
of the hill were the scene of the first 
conference with Massasoit, a friendly 
and faithful Indian chief, from whom 
the name of the bay, and subsequently 
that of the state, was derived. Manumet 
point is a promontory on the south side 
of the harbor ; and a small island on the 
opposite side of it was the spot where 
the pilgrims first placed their feet on 
shore in this vicinity, after having pre- 
viously landed on Cape Cod. 

The young and feeble colony suffered 
extreme distresses here from the severity 
of the climate (against which they were 
unprepared, as they had sailed for a 



more southern region) and the want of 
provisions. Nothing but the assistance 
of Massasoit, under the providence of 
God, preserved them from extinction. 

The Boston and Lowell Railroad, 
is twenty-six and a half miles in length. 
The cars start from North Boston, 
and pass in view of the ruins of the 
Charlestown nunnery, on Mount Ben- 
edict, which was burned by a mob some 
years ago on a charge of the ill treat- 
ment of some of the nuns. Summit of 
the road, one hundred and twenty-five 
feet ; maximum grade, ten feet per mile ; 
least radius, three thousand feet. More 
than one half is straight. It was opened 
in June, 1835. 

This road extends to Concord, from 
which place, also, several roads, now in 
process of construction, are to extend to 
Portsmouth and noi'th into Canada. 

Lowell. — Like many other towns in 
this vicinity, this place has grown from 
a very small beginning. Thousands of 
persons now living in the city and sur- 
rounding country, well remember when 
there were not ten men in it. The main 
canal, which supplies water for turning 
the machinery of numerous mills on the 
banks of the Merrimack, was constructed 
in 1793, simply as a boat and raft chan- 
nel around the falls. The finest timber 
in New England was then brought down 
the Concord and Merrimack, the junc- 
tion of which rivers takes place at Low- 
ell ; and thence, to the ocean, they go 
by the name of the Merrimack. The 
construction of this canal soon attracted 
the attention of capitalists, the result of 
which was, that one mill after another 
was erected ; and from a little, meager 
village, Lowell has grown into a pow- 
erful city, with vast ranges of magnifi- 
cent granite and brick factories stretch- 
ing from river to river, and from street 
to street, resembling huge towers, and 
striking the stranger with wonder, sur- 
prise, and admiration. The population 
is about forty thousand. 

The value of raw cotton used up 
here annually is about four hundred 
thousand dollars ; wool, about one hun- 
dred thousand dollars. The value of 
the articles manufactured in all the fac- 
tories, large and small, is about thirteen 



98 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



millions of dollars per annum. The 
amount of money annually paid out to 
the operatives is one million, eight hun- 
dred thousand dollars. The operatives, 
both male and female, get higher wages 
than any other persons of their class in 
the United States, or perhaps in the 
world. Their intelligence is also great- 
er, and their morals are better. They 
have two hundred and fifty thousand 
dollars' worth of stock in the various 
companies, which ihey have purchased 
wilh their earnings in the mills : thirty 
thousand dollars in railroad stock, a 
pretty large amount in bank stock, and 
two hundred thousand dollars deposited 
in the savings bank. This money they 
have made by their industry. Many of 
them have fine houses. A large num- 
ber of families are dependent on the 
earnings of their daughters in these fac- 
tories. Two nieces of Daniel Webster, 
and two of Edward Everett, are grad- 
uates of these palaces of the poor. The 
girls publish a periodical of original 
matter, written entirely by the opera- 
tives. Over two hundred young ladies, 
who laboi'ed in these factories and thus 
earned the money with which they ed- 
ucated themselves, are now instructors 
of youth, and some of them in the high- 
est female seminaries. 

The Boston and Worcester Railroad, 
forty-four and a half miles, extends from 
the shore of Boston harbor, under Wash- 
ington street, across the city by a via- 
duct ; over Charles river, on an embank- 
ment six hundred and eighty feet long, 
and through a cut in granite five hun- 
dred feet long and thirty feet deep ; 
along Charles river ; through Brighton 
to Needham ; and through Natick, Fra- 
mingham, Westborough,. and Grafton, 
to Worcester, five miles east of which 
is the summit, five hundred and fifty feet 
above tide. There is a cut through slate 
thirty-seven feet deep. Less than one 
third of a mile on this route is level ; 
maximum grade, thirty feet ; least rad- 
ius, nine hundred and fifty-four feet. 

The Great Western Railroad (a con- 
tinuation of the above road) leads from 
Worcesterto Springfield, fifty-four miles, 
through Charlton, South Brookfield, Pal- 
mer, and Wilbraham, and on to West 



Stockbridge, on the New York line, six- 
ty-two miles further; and thence on to 
Albany. 

The Boston and Portsmouth or East- 
ern Railroad extends from East Boston 
through Lynn, Salem (where is a tunnel 
under part of the town), Ipswich, and 
Newburyport (forty miles), to Ports- 
mouth, N. H., fifteen and a half miles. 
It is continued to Portland, Me., through 
Wells, Kennebunkport, and Saco ; and 
thence to Bangor, one hundred and thir- 
ty-two miles further. 

Mount Auburn Cemetery, — This is 
the first of the large rural burying- 
grounds which have since become so 
common in this country. It occupies a 
large extent of uneven land, well adapt- 
ed in form, as well as in the nature of 
its soil and the abundant and varied 
growth of forest-trees which it bears, to 
the solemn and interesting object to 
which it is devoted. It is surrounded 
by a strong and high fence, and the front 
presents a high wall, with a fine gateway 
of granite. At the entrance, avenues 
lead off, on either side, through shady 
groves ; and here several of the prin- 
cipal monuments are first presented to 
view, particularly that of the distin- 
guished phrenologist, Spurzheim, who 
died at Boston on his visit to the United 
States. The first interment made at 
Mount Auburn was that of Hannah 
Adams, the celebrated writer of the his- 
tory of the Jews. 

The grounds are laid out with great 
taste, and are gradually filling up with 
tombs and graves. Many private tombs 
are seen on every side, constructed in a 
great variety of styles ; and the avenues, 
roads, and paths, which branch out in 
all directions, lead the visiter through 
scenes of great variety, among hills of 
various elevations, and by the borders 
of ponds, every step bringing to view 
some new and sad but appropriate object. 
Flowers are often mingled with the 
foliage and shade of funereal trees and 
shrubs ; and many touching emblems and 
inscriptions ai'e interspersed, on which 
the mind may dwell with affecting and 
profitable reflections. 

Lexington, Worcester county, is re- 
markable as the place where the first 



100 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



blood was shed in the revolutionary war. 
On the 19th of April, 1776, General 
Gage sent a body of troops from Bos- 
ton to seize a powderhouse at Concord 
belonging to the colony ; and the inhab- 
itants were warned of his design by an 
express despatched by the Hon. Joseph 
Warren. The militia were called out, 
but, the alarm subsiding, they were dis- 
missed, with orders, however, to hold 
themselves in readiness. The enemy 
unexpectedly made their appearance at 
half-past 4 o'clock, coming on at a quick 
step, within a mile and a quarter of the 
church. The alarm-guns wei'e fired, 
drums beat, and fifty or sixty militiamen 
assembled on the parade. The British 
brigade halted about one hundred and 
twenty yards from the church to load, 
and then passing the east end of the 
building, discovered the Americans, who 
wei-e ordered at the moment by their 
commander, Captain Parker, to disperse 
and take care of themselves, but not to 
fire. As some of them loitered, the 
British troops rushed toward them, huz- 
zaing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at 
them when about thirty yards distant, 
after they had been called "rebels," and 
ordered them to lay down their arms 
and disperse. Another officer, who was 
within a few yards of them, then bran- 
dished his sword and ordered the troops 
to " fire," which was obeyed at the sec- 
ond order ; and the fire being returned, 
it was kept up on the dispersing men 
until they had all disappeared. Eight 
were killed and ten wounded. (Gen- 
eral Gage falsely stated that the British 
were first fired upon.) 

After the regulars had fired a volley 
from the green behind the church, and 
given three cheers, they proceeded to 
Concord. On their return, being hard 
pressed by sharpshooters, they burned 
three houses, a shop, and a barn, killed 
three more men and wounded one. 

Andover is a small village, situated 
on high ground, twenty miles from Bos- 
ton. It is remarkable for the Phillips 
academy and the theological seminary, 
which are three fourths of a mile east 
from it, on the summit of the ascent. 
The buildings belonging to the semin- 
ary (which we have before described) 



make a conspicuous figure from different 
parts of the surrounding country, and 
command a view of great extent, bound- 
ed on the west by the Temple hills in 
New Hampshire, backed by the Mo- 
nadnoc about sixty miles off", and on the 
south by the Blue hills. A small el- 
evation near by affords a view of the 
Atlantic ocean, fmm about Newbury- 
port to Cape Ann, with part of Salem ; 
and in the northwest is a distant peak, 
which is supposed to be Ascutney, in 
Vermont. 

The academical buildings are distin- 
guished by the names of Phillips hall, 
Bartlett hall, and the chapel. In the 
upper part of the latter is a library. 
The professors' houses ai"e opposite, 
with a spacious green intervening be- 
tween the seminary and the street ; and 
there is also a large inn. The academy 
is not connected with the seminaiy. 

Brookfield. — This was one of the 
most early settled towns in this part of 
the country, dating as far back as No- 
vember 10, 1665; and for several years 
the oqly towns in the west were Hadley, 
Northampton, &c., while there was no 
white settlement between it and Can- 
ada. Th-i stagecoach passes over a long 
hill in West Brookfield, which commands 
an extensive prospect, and this is the 
place where the settlement began. A 
few yards west of a white house on the 
north side of the road was a house built 
for defence, which, though of but little 
strength, was called the fort. In August, 
1675, this place wls suddenly beset by 
several hundred savages. The inhab- 
itants had been imposed upon by the 
appearance of friendr.ness shown by 
the Hassenemesit Indians, and while 
on their way to their fori, a few miles 
distant, were ambushed and pursued, so 
that they barely escaped. The house 
in which they all assembled was besieged 
and several times in imminent danger. 
On one occasion a cart loaded with hemp, 
&c., and set on fire, was pushed up to 
the house with long poles, when a sud- 
den shower of rain came up in time to 
extinguish the flames. The fortunate 
arrival of Captain Mosely with a small 
troop of horsemen delivered the inhab- 
ita.nts, and drove away the savages. All 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



101 



the houses having been burned, and the 
war soon beginning to rage with vio- 
lence, the settlement was evacuated. 

The old well still remains which be- 
longed to the fort or blockhouse ; and 
there is a rock in a Vvall, on the oppo- 
site side of the road, from behind which 
an Indian shot one of the men who had 
come out to draw water during the 
siege. 

The present village is at the bottom 
of the hill, and is pleasantly situated, 
with several ponds in the neighborhood, 
which, with the fish and fowl they fur- 
nished, were the principal attraction of 
the savages, who were very numerous 
in this tract of country. These ponds 
give rise to the Quabaug river, which, 
after a course of some miles, takes the 
name of Chicopee, and joins the Con- 
necticut at Springfield. 

Worcester is one of thepleasantest 
cities in New England. The country 
around it is rich and variegated, and the 
dwellino;s have an air of eleofance which 
does gi'eat credit to the taste as well as 
the wealth of its inhabitants. Brick is 
extensively used in building. The court- 
house, bank, &c., stand on the princi- 
pal street, and east of it the county- 
house, and the building of the American 
Historical society ; this institution was 
formed for the purpose of preserving 
everything relating to the history, tra- 
ditions, &c., of the country. The state 
lunatic asylum, conducted on the hu- 
mane system of moral treatment, is very 
successful. 

Watchusett hills, sixteen miles west- 
northwesl of Worcester, and fifty-two 
west by north of Boston, are estimated 
at nearly three thousand feet above the 
sea, and ascended by an easy path. The 
spectator looks down on a surrounding 
scene of wooded mountains, with ponds 
and farms below them, and a view over 
cultivated and inhabited regions. 

Springfield is a flourishing town, 
standing at the foot of a high hill, the 
side of which is ornamented with fine 
buildings, the residences of some of the 
wealthier inhabitants, and the top occu- 
pied by the United States armory. This 
establishment occupies a large space of 
ground, and commands a fine view. The 



buildings containing the workshops for 
manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, 
the barracks, &c., are surrounded by a 
high wall. The number of workmen 
required, which is about two hundred 
and sixty, has a favorable effect on the 
business and prosperity of the place. 
About eighteen thousand muskets are 
made here annually, or sixty a day. 
The manufactories on Mill river, a little 
south of the armory, are various, and 
well worthy of observation. 

The town is ornamented with many 
fine elms and other trees ; and there are 
two very handsome churches. It was 
originally considered within the limits 
of Connecticut colony, but at length in- 
corporated with Massachusetts. A tribe 
of Indians lived for some years on Fort 
hill ; but, being won over to King Phil- 
ip's party, in 1675, they assumed a hos- 
tile air, fired upon some of the inhabit- 
ants who were going to their fort, and 
burned a part of the town. 

In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, 
he attacked the armory, at the head of 
a strong party of undisciplined men. 
General Shepard, who had command at 
the place, attempted to dissuade them 
from the attempt, and finally drove them 
off by firing twice. The first shot over 
their heads dispersed the raw troops, 
and the second drove off the remainder 
(about two hundred revolutionary sol- 
diers), who did not desist until they had 
lost a few of their men. This was the 
first check the insurrection received, 
which was put down without much sub- 
sequent trouble. 

Wilbraham, seven or eight miles west 
from Springfield, coMtains a Wesleyan 
academy. 

West Springfield has a fine street, 
shaded with large elms, and containing 
some handsome houses. It is twenty- 
six miles from Hartford, and about sev- 
enteen from Northampton. There is 
a fine view from the road on the brow 
of a hill a little north of the town, near 
a church, which overlooks the river and 
an extent of country on each side, with 
Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke in 
front. 

South Hadley Falls. — The village and 
locks are on the east side of the river. 



% 




DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



103 



The whole fall of the river at South 
Hadley is fifty-two feet, but at the lower 
falls only thirty-two. There is a canal 
two and a half miles long on the east 
side of the river, cut through a slate- 
rock for a considerable distance, and in 
some places very deep. There is a fer- 
ry here, which is safe, but the water 
runs very swiftly. 

The Mount Holyoke Female Semina- 
ry, at South Hadley, combines a practi- 
cal domestic education with intellectual 
instruction. 

For several miles before reaching 
Mount Tom from the south, the road 
runs along the banks of the river ; the 
river makes an abrupt turn some miles 
above, running between Mount Tom on 
the south and Mount Holyoke on the 
north ; and when the scene opens again, 
it discloses a charming and extensive 
plain, formed of the meadows on the 
river's bank, and evidently once the site 
of a large lake, when the water was 
restrained by the barrier between the 
mountains. This plain is one of the 
richest, and by far the most extensive 
and beautiful, on the river. 

Northampton is situated at the west- 
ern side of the plain, a mile from the 
river, and is a favorite place of resort 
for travellers. It is one of the most 
beautiful of the New England villages, 
and is surrounded by a charming coun- 
try, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, 
which commands a view of the whole. 
The streets are irregular, but some of 
them shady and delightful in summer, 
being also ornamented with many neat 
houses. It is a place of much business, 
and the soil makes valuable farms. 

Round Hill is a beautiful eminence 
just west of the town. On the eastern 
declivity of the hill stands the house of 
the Stoddard family, an ancestor of which 
was a man of talent and influence. In 
King street, toward the northeast from 
that spot, stood the house in which Pres- 
ident Edwards, senior, lived — President 
Edwards, junior, and Dr. Dwight were 
born — and David Brainerd died : his 
grave is in the burying-gi-ound. 

Mount Holyoke is about eight hundred 
feet high, and there is a good carriage- 
road for the greater part of the way up. 



The country southeast, seen from its sum- 
mit, is undulating, and the soil generally 
poor ; yet several villages are discovered 
at a distance, particularly South Hadley, 
which lies immediately below. South- 
wardly is seen Connecticut river, retiring 
under the shade of Mount Tom, whi- 
tened below by the South Hadley falls, 
beyond which is the hill at Spz'ingfield ; 
the river makes several turns, and on 
the horizon are two very distant peaks, 
which are supposed to be East and West 
rocks at New Haven, about seventy miles 
distant. Northeast is seen Monadnock 
mountain, in New Hampshire. North, 
the view is up the charming valley of the 
Connecticut, bordered by distant ranges 
of hills and mountains, varied by a few 
isolated peaks, covered with the richest 
coat of vegetation, and scattered with vil- 
lages and innumerable farmhouses. The 
river makes a beautiful serpentine course 
from where it first appears at the foot of 
Sugailoaf mountain and Mount Toby, un- 
til it reaches the village of Hadley, which 
lies in full view ; and then taking a bold 
sweep to the west, and flowing four and 
a half miles, it returns to the end of that 
village, only a mile distant from where 
it first meets it ! The whole peninsula 
is rich and fertile, and covered with cul- 
tivated fields of wheat, corn, grass, &c., 
without being disfigured by fences — and 
is the richest sight upon the river, par- 
ticularly when viewed in connexion with 
the scene immediately below, where the 
river flows on almost under our feet, and 
the western shore presents the extensive 
Northampton meadows, a mile wide ; fol- 
lowing the current with the eye in the 
west-southwest, it forms a still more re- 
markable peninsula, although one of in- 
ferior size — the Hockanum bend, being 
a turn measuring three miles in circuit, 
while the isthmus was only forty-six rods 
across. This has been cut through by a 
flood. In the compass of this view, nu- 
merous village spires are seen, with level 
fields, orchards, and gardens, almost num- 
berless, and the whole scene is bounded 
with mountainous ridges. 

Northampton is seen about west-north- 
west, with Round hill ; and, toward the 
right, the top of Saddle mountain, in the 
distance. There are also others, still 



104 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



farthei- north, particularly Haystack and 
Bare mountains. More than thiity church 
steeples may be counted here at one view 
by taking advantage of different kinds of 
weather. 

In point of history, that part of the 
Connecticut valley immediately under 
the eye belongs to the third division of 
settlements, calling Plymouth and Mas- 
sachusetts bay the first, and Windsor, 
Hartford, Wetheratield, &c., the second. 
Northampton, Hadley, and Hatfield, 
were settled in 1653, and remained the 
frontier posts in this direction till after 
Philip's war, during which time they 
suffered severely from constant alarms, 
and the loss of inhabitants. The Indians 
who had sold the lands on which the 
towns were built, had each a spot as- 
signed them within a short distance of 
the palisades with which the new settle- 
ments were surrounded, and lived in 
peace and good faith until excited by 
Philip ; after which all the towns were 
at different times attacked by them, and 
some of them repeatedly. During the 
French wars, on May 13, 1704, the In- 
dians fell upon a little settlement at the 
foot of Mount Tom, and killed twenty 
persons, more than half of whom were 
children; and a tradition states, though 
without designating the precise time, that 
a captive woman was once taken to the 
top of this mountain and there scalped. 
Hadley was attacked by the Indians 
while the inhabitants were at church, 
and was near falling into their hands, 
when a strangei' — a venerable old man — 
made his appearance, and by his active 
reriistance encouraged them to repel the 
enemy. It was not known at the time 
who he was, or whither he went; but 
there is now little doubt that he was 
Goffe, one of Charles the First's judges, 
who was secreted for a length of time 
in this town. The remains of his cofhn, 
it is believed, were discovered a few 
years since in the cellar-wall of a house 
(near the present academy) which was 
formerly inhabited by one of his friends. 
Hatfield, one mile from Hadley, on 
the west side of the river, is much de- 
voted to the wintering of cattle raised 
on the neighboring hilly country. The 
grass is very fine, and the barns are 



large ; which, with the appearance of the 
houses, gives the place an air of substan- 
tial agricultural wealth. The cattle are 
bought, stabled, and fatted, whence they 
are chiefly sent by railroad to Brighton. 

Amherst, situated on elevated ground, 
is five miles from Hadley, and off the riv- 
er toward the northeast. 

Amherst College, in this town, ranks 
among the most respectable in New Eng- 
land. The situation occupied 1^ the 
buildings is pleasant, commanding a rich, 
extensive, and varied view, partly over 
the meadows of Connecticut river, with 
mountains seen in different directions. 
The retired situation is highly favorable 
to study and good ordei', as its elevation 
and pure air are conducive to health. 

The three college buildings, one of 
which is seen, in all its length, on the 
right side of our print, are fine, substan- 
tial edifices. That which is most dis- 
tinctly visible is four stories high, with a 
Doric portico projecting from the mid- 
dle, and a dome rising from the centre 
of the roof. Toward the left are the 
new buildings, lately erected for the 
cabinet of natural history and the astro- 
nomical observatory ; while a cluster of 
dwellings, with a church in the midst, 
and a number of scattering houses, show 
the elevated and agreeable situation of 
the southern part of the village. 

Amherst college was founded in 1821, 
and incorporated in 1825, by act of the 
legislature of Massachusetts. The Rev. 
Edward Hitchcock, long distinguished 
as the professor of geology, &c., was 
eL'cted in 1843 as the successor of the 
president, Dr. Humphrey," and ably oc- 
cupies his station. 

There are professors of rhetoric and 
English literature ; mathematics and nat- 
ural philosophy; chymistry and natural 
history ; Greek and Hebrew ; zoology 
and astronomy ; intellectual and moral 
philosophy ; and Latin and French. 
There are also three tutors, a preceptor 
in German and French, and a lecturer 
on political economy. 

The libraries of the college and liter- 
ary societies contain about 15,000 vol- 
umes. The college library is accessible 
to all the students. The north, middle, 
and south college buildings are capa- 



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106 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



cious, convenient, and situated in a man- 
ner highly favorable to appearance. 

At the dedication of the new cabinet 
and observatory, on the 28th of June, 
1848, a large number of distinguished 
men attended, on which occasion due 
acknowledgments were made to the lib- 
eral patrons of the institution, who at 
different periods had rendered it essen- 
tial aid from their estates ; and gratify- 
ing evidence was afforded by a recapit- 
ulation of contributions and donations 
received within a few months, that its 
character and usefulness are more highly 
appreciated than ever. The president 
paid a most appropriate and well-merited 
compliment to one of the principal bene- 
factors, in the following words : " In 
the astronomical observatory at Cam- 
bridge is a massive tower, called the 
'Sears Tower,' which sustains one of 
the most splendid telescopes in the world. 
But in the ' Sears Foundation of Liter- 
ature and Benevolence^* in Amherst col- 
lege, we have a more enduring structure." 
A letter from the Hon. David Sears 
was read, containing the following para- 
graphs : — 

" It is the peculiar cliaracteristic of 
Massachusetts to give encouragement to 
learning, and to cherish her literary in- 
stitutions. It is a sentiment which has 
gi'own with her gi'owth and strength- 
ened with her strength, and almost marks 
her as a distinct people. From the land- 
ing of their forefathers, in 1620, lo the 
present day, her sons — while differing on 
other subjects — have thought alike on 
this, and they have reason to be proud 
of the result. 

" The colleges of Massachusetts are 
aptly called seminaries of learning, for 
by them the seeds of knowledge, of vir- 
tue, of morality, and religion, are sown 
broadcast through our land. Go where 
you will, from Maine to Mexico, from 
Ohio to the Pacific ocean, and much of 

" It appears thai a most liberal individual donation 
to Amlierst college has been made by the Hon. David 
Seaks, of Boston, consisting of real estate in that city, 
which is estimated by the donor to be of the value 
of 812,000. This, vv-ith $10,000 formerly bestowed 
by him, is to constitute the " Sears Foundation of 
Literature and Benevolence." which, although for the 
present it does not yield a large income, yet such are 
the terras on which it is bestowed, that it must ulti- 
mately become of great value to the college. 



what you find among the people that is 
good and honest, intelligent and success- 
ful, owes its origin to the loins or educa- 
tion of New England — and principally 
of Massachusetts. In my humble opin- 
ion, our colleges are the great conserva- 
tives of the Union, and we are deeply 
indebted to them for whatever of honest 
principle and integrity of character exists 
among us. 

" Especially permit me to notice the 
observatory, and the liberal and enlight- 
ened gentleman whose name stands the 
first on the list of patrons.* I trust that 
the foundation thus laid by him will here- 
after sustain the instruments of modern 
science to draw from the skies a knowl- 
edge of the stars — to demonstrate to men 
the glory of God, and the magnificence 
of his works — and show to their won- 
dering minds that ' the thousand brilliant 
worlds which circle round Him are gov- 
erned by one law,' and that ' in wisdom 
he has made them all.' 

" I venture to conclude my answer to 
you, reverend sir, with the following sen- 
timent : Literary talent and pecuniary 
ability — may their zeal be ever found 
united in building up the halls of learn- 
ing, and extending the altars of religion." 

The Wood Cabinet is of brick, of an 
octagonal form, and forty-five feet in di- 
ameter, with two lofty stories. It is stuc- 
coed without as well as within, and the 
two halls which it contains are orna- 
mented with fresco painting. Great care 
has been taken to render this building 
secure from fire. The floors are fire- 
proof; the upper one is supported by 
four strong iron pillars ; and the doois 
are of iron, weighing nearly half a ton 
each. 

The Lawrence Observatory is an oc- 
tagonal tower, forty-four feet high and 
eighteen feet in diameter. It is sur- 
mounted by a dome ten feet high, which 
is so made as to be easily moved round 
to the right or the left, for the conveni- 
ence of observers using the telescope. 
As in the observatory at West Point, 
&c., the dome rests upon several can- 
non-balls, placed between large iron 
hoops, or circular track-ways, which per- 
form the part of wheels. 

* Hon. Abbott Lawrence. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



107 



The Sugarloqf is an isolated hill, of 
a conical form, about three miles south 
of Deerfiekl. The way by which we 
approach it lies nearly along the old 
road which led thither through the wil- 
derness, in 1675, when it was deserted 
by the settlers, and Captain Lothrop 
was despatched, with a body of eighty 
soldiers and was:oners, to bring off the 
grain. At the foot of this mountain is 
the small village of Bloody Brook ; and, 
near the spot where a biidge crosses 
the stieam. Captain Lothrop was am- 
bushed by about eight hundred Indians. 
The place was a marshy piece of ground ; 
and some traces of the road, which was 
formed of logs, are still to bo seen, run- 
ning through the fields without crossing 
at the bridge. The convoy halted at 
this place, and the soldiers were gener- 
ally engaged in gat^hering grapes from 
the vines which ran on the trees, having 
left their muskets on the ground, when 
the Indians fired upon them. Captain 
Lothrop gave orders that the men should 
disperse, and fire from behind the trees ; 
but they were all cut off except eight or 
ten. This massacre was one of the most 
calamitous which ever occurred in New 
England, taken into view with the small 
number of inhabitants at the time ; as 
the company consisted of young men, 
from the principal families in the eastern 
towns. 

Deerfield. — The meadownear Deer- 
field was the scene of several skirmishes 
with the Lidians at different times, as the 
place was a frontier for many years, al- 
though it was twice burnt and deserted. 
In 1704, the period of its last destruc- 
tion, a lai-ge body of Indians, led on by 
a few Frenchmen from Canada, came 
upon the town before daylight, and after 
massacring many of its inhabitants and 
burning their dwellings, retreated, taking 
Mrs. Williams a captive to Canada. 

The Landing of the Pilgrims at Plym- 
outh, which is represented in the vignette 
at the head of this description of Massa- 
chusetts, is justly regarded as one of the 
most important events which ever hap- 
pened on the western conti§ent. 

New England was settled by puritans, 
and still retains much of the spirit and 
principles of its founders. The pui'itans 



were the same men to whom England 
owed her first emancipation from the 
tyranny of the Stuart family — the same 
men whose political principles, sternly 
asserted, led to the Revolution of 1688, 
and thus gave to our transatlantic pro- 
genitors whatever civil freedom they 
now enjoy — the same men whose de- 
scendants led in the American Revolu- 
tion of 1776, and thus set an example 
whose influence, after overturning many 
ancient dynasties and changing the whole 
political aspect of Europe, is still felt in 
the more silent but certain progress of 
liberal principles, and the wider diffusion 
of equal rights. John Robinson may be 
justly regarded as the founder of the 
sect of independents or (as called in New 
England) congregationalists. The most 
important feature of their ecclesiastical 
system is the independence of each church 
or congregation, of all bishops, synods, or 
councils, and its direct dependence on 
the Head of the Christian church himself. 
The preaching of such a doctrine could 
not but offend the government of Eng- 
land. It drew upon the devoted heads 
of its disciples the determined persecu- 
tion of Elizabeth and James, and exas- 
perated the civil war, which, terminating 
in the dethronement of Charles I., finally 
gave the ascendency to the puritans. 

It was to avoid the persecution of 
James that the English exiles composing 
Mr. Robinson's congregation remained 
for ten years at Leyden. But the same 
pious views incited them to undertake 
a more distant migration. They at first 
cast their eyes upon Guiana, of which 
Raleigh had given a glowing description, 
but subsequently decided to seek an es- 
tablishment in Virginia. Agents were 
despatched to England, to obtain per- 
mission from the king. James, although 
desirous to promote the increase of the 
colony which had been planted under 
his auspices, was unwilling to sanction 
their religious opinions by taking them 
under his protection. The utmost he 
would promise was, to connive at their 
practices, and refrain from molesting 
them. After accepting this precaiious 
security, they procured from the Plym- 
outh company a grant of a tract of land, 
lying, as was supposed, within the limits 



108 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



of its patent ; a partnership or joint-stock 
company was fijrmed , on disadvantageous 
terms, with certain merchants in London, 
in order to raise the funds necessary to 
defray the expenses of emigration and 
settlement. Two vessels were obtained 
— the Speedwell, of sixty, and the May- 
Flowei', of one hundred and eighty tons 
burden — in which one hundred and twen- 
ty of their number were appointed to 
embaik from an English port for Amer- 
ica. These were to act as the pioneers 
of the whole congregation. They were 
destined to figure in the world's history 
as the celebrated pilgrims of New Eng- 
land. 

They sought retirement, isolation, and 
an opportunity of founding a small com- 
munity of puritans, where, apart from all 
the world, their peculiar doctrines could 
be transmitted from father to son, with- 
out attracting the notice of king or bish- 
op. But they had a higher destiny : they 
were, in fact, to become the most efficient 
among the founders of a great empire, in 
which their own principles should flour- 
ish for ages after, and a moi'e liberal 
system of religious freedom should be 
learned and taught by their descendants. 

Robinson and his people devoted their 
last meeting in Europe to an act of sol- 
emn and social worship, intended to im- 
plore a blessing from Heaven upon the 
enterprise in which they were about to 
engage ; and on July 22, 1620, sailed 
from Delft haven for Southampton — 
whence, after remaining a fortnight, they 
sailed for America : but tiiey were com- 
pelled by the bad condition of the Speed- 
well, and the treachery of its captain, to 
put back twice before their final depart- 
ure. The Speedwell was abandoned ; 
a portion of the company, who were dis- 
mayed at the evident dangers of the voy- 
age, were dismissed, reducing their num- 
ber to one hundred and one, including 
women and children. This company 
were all crowded into the May-Flower, 
which set sail from Plymouth, Septem- 
ber 6, 1620, bearing the founders of 
New England across the Atlantic. 

December 22d, after imploring the 
Divine guidance and protection, the peo- 
ple landed and commenced a settlement. 
This day is still celebrated by the de- 



scendants of the pilgrims as the anniver- 
sary of New England's birth. They 
gave the town the name of Plymouth, in 
reinembrance of the hospitalities they 
had received at the last port in England 
from which they had sailed. Their first 
operations consisted in measuring out the 
land to the diffei'ent families, laying a 
platform for their ordnance, and erect- 
ing habitations. It was not till Decem- 
ber 31st that they were able to celebrate 
the sabbath, with its appropriate exer- 
cises, in a house on shore. 

The hardships undergone by the peo- 
ple, in exploring the bay and effecting 
a landing, sowed the seeds of fatal dis- 
ease ; their provisions were scanty ; the 
winter was extremely severe ; and the In- 
dians, remembering the kidnapping ex- 
ploits of Hunt and. others, were hostile. 
More than half the colonists died before 
spring ; and those who retained their 
strength were hardly sufficient to admin- 
ister to the urgent wants of the sick and 
dying. In this employment, no one dis- 
tinguished himself more than John Car- 
ver, the governor. He was a man of 
fortune, who had spent all in the service 
of the colony, and readily sacrificed his 
life in discharging the humblest offices 
of kindness to the sick. He was suc- 
ceeded by William Bradford, who was 
reelected for many successive years. 

Previous to the arrival of the pilgrims 
in New England, a sweeping pestilence 
had carried oif whole tribes of natives, 
in the region where they had now set- 
tled. The traces of former habitations 
were apparent, but no Indians were 
found residing in their immediate vicin- 
ity. The spring, which restored health 
to the colonists, brought them also an 
agreeable surprise, in the visit of some 
friendly Indians. The visit of Samoset, 
whose previous intercourse with the Eng- 
lish fishermen enabled him to salute thern 
with " Welcome, welcome Englishmen !" 
was followed by that of Massasoit, the 
principal sachem of the country, with 
whom the celebrated treaty was con- 
cluded, which was inviolably observed 
for more than fifty years, and contrib- 
uted during that period, more than any 
other circumstance, to secure New Eng- 
land from the horrors of Indian warfare. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



109 



We can not close our description of 
Massachusetts more appropriately, than 
by giving biographical sketches of two 
of her most eminent statesmen. Occupy- 
ing as they did exalted stations at the ex- 
treme points in her history, the impress 
of their characters has been so strongly 
marked on the institutions of the state 
that it will never be effaced. We refer 
to John Winthrop, the father of the 
Massachusetts colony, and John Q,uincy 
Adams, whose life, from early youth 
to a ri^De old age, was devoted to the 
service of his country, in its most im- 
portant offices. 

John Winthrop, first Governor op 
Massachusetts. — We know of nothing 
in the history of colonies marked with so 
many peculiarities, as the first settlement 
of New England. No others were ever 
founded for pui'poses strictly religious. 
Christian faith gave a tone to society that 
is still felt throughout the community. 
The belief of a special Providence di- 
recting all matters of government, and 
ordering its changes, visiting vice with 
temporal calamities, and giving peculiar 
aid to right motives, seemed to bring 
man into more immediate communica- 
tion with his Maker, and to inspire him 
with high resolves.* It was in this way 
that the colonists sustained themselves 
through the difficulties and dangers which 
met them at every step, and which it was 
the daily, constant occupation of their 
lives to surmount. But for this princi- 
ple, it would not be easy to understand 
fully the prevailing character of the early 
period of their history, and to judge 
aright of the principles which supported 

* Our Pilgrim Fathers. — When our fathers fled 
from persecution in England, and sought an asylum 
in this country, they at tirst depended much upon the 
supplies of food from the mother country. A com- 
pany of them having at one time gone to the sea- 
shore, after looking anxiously for a vessel w^hich was 
to bring them corn, and being disappointed, hunger 
induced them to search among the pebbles for some- 
thing to satisfy the craving demands of nature. — And 
sincere was their gratitude to Him who " oponeth hi.s 
hand and satisfieth the desire of every living thing," 
when they found in the sand a kind of mussel, of 
which they partook, and found to be wholesome and 
nutricious. One day. after they had finished a hearty 
meal cf this kind, a venerable old man stood up and 
returned thanks, by blessing God that he had ful- 
filled to them the promise made to Zebulon, Deut. 
xxxiii., 19 : " They shall otfer sacrifices of righteous- 
ness, for they shall suck of the abundance of the seas, 
and of treasures bid in the sand." 



the fathers of New England in their strug- 
gles, situated as we are in the midst of 
ease and prosperity. Indeed the whole 
character of those who influenced and 
directed their councils, has never been 
correctly estimated. By some it has 
been viewed as a model for the present 
generation, possessed of every virtue, 
without blemish or reproach. Others 
have seen nothing but bigotry, hypocri- -t 
sy, a spirit of persecution, gloomy super- 
stition, and an absence of the social graces 
and virtues. Both of these views do vio- 
lence to human nature, history, and truth. 
There is a manifest want of justice in 
deciding upon any portion of history in 
the abstract, or by views which are ob- 
tained in a more refined and cultivated 
state of society, where questions of nat- 
ural right are better understood. A more 
correct judgment may be formed by ta- 
king into the estimate the general state 
of society at the time, and any peculiar- 
ities in the combination of circumstances 
that go to form the aggregate. If we 
apply this rule to the early settlers of 
New England, we may lament the se- 
verities with which they visited differing 
shades of opinion and disrespect of au- 
thority, the readiness which they mani- 
fested to believe that the calamities which 
befell the erring, and their enemies, were 
instances of the Divine indignation. We 
could wish that some things had been 
otherwise, some we would blot out ; but 
we can not join with tbose who tread with 
contempt upon their ashes, and condemn 
the principal features of their character. 
They were no common men who guided 
the sufferers from the vengeance of pow- 
er to these shores. Virtue was strong ; 
religion found her votaries, who were 
willing to quit the hearths and altars, the 
refinement and luxuries of the old world, 
to erect temples to the Most High in the 
deep silence of our forests. We can 
not join in a general condemnation of 
those who fostered the good institutions 
that have descended to us; strengthened 
them against the violence of opposition; 
planted the seeds of liberty, now in full 
fruit; and cherished religion, till it be- 
came an essential element in the consti- 
tution of society. Surely it is some praise 
that they planted churches in every vil- 




^^^'O: %\;/>i^im^li^ 



FOUNDER OF THE CITY OF BOSTON, AND FIRST GOVERNOR OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



Ill 



lage; that, by the system of free schools, 
established in many towns so early as 
1645, and by law in 1648, they sent the 
kindly influences of learning to the fire- 
side of the humblest citizen; and, to 
crown all, founded that venerable uni- 
versity, which for two centuries has been 
the direct source of incalculable good to 
the people, and may be regarded as, in 
an important sense, the parent of many 
of the similar institutions in our land ; 
and all this at a time when the people 
were few, and, by reason of their pover- 
ty, were obliged, for one year, to forbear 
laying the usual tax. 

From a general view of our early his- 
tory, we are satisfied, that the fathers of 
New England were upright, intelligent, 
and pious men, whose main endeavor 
was to strengthen the colonies they had 
planted, according to their ability ; and 
that even their error's, in most instances, 
were the result of good motives, and an 
ardent desire to promote religion, learn- 
ing, purity, and all the best interests of 
the community. 

Governor Winthrop, the subject of 
this biography, was born at Groton, in 
Suffolk, England, June 12, 1587; and 
was descended from an ancient and hon- 
orable family. His grandfather was an 
eminent lawyer, in the reign of Henry 
Vni., and attached to the reformation. 
His father was of the same profession, 
and the governor himself was bred a 
lawyer, in which character he was em- 
inent for both integrity and abilities. In- 
deed, he must have had the fairest rep- 
utation, for he was appointed a justice 
of the peace at eighteen years of age. 

When the design of settling a colony 
in New England was undertaken, Mr. 
Winthrop was chosen, with general con- 
sent, to conduct the enterprise. His 
estate, amounting to the value of six or 
seven hundred pounds sterling a year, 
he converted into money, and embarked 
his all to promote the settlement of New 
England. When he left Groton he was 
in the forty-third year of his age. He 
arrived at Salem with the Massachusetts 
charter, June 12, 1630. 

To no one are we more indebted than 
to Winthrop, not only for the manifold 
good which he did in his own day, but 



I also for the history he has left us of the 
early transactions in church and state in 
New England, and especially in Massa- 
chusetts. His work, which, as we gath- 
er from him, was intended for publication 
and for posterity, was left by him. in 
manuscript, in three parts. These had 
all been in the hands of Hubbard, Mather, 
and Prince, who it seems had derived 
more assistance from them than they 
would acknowledge. The first two parts, 
bringing the history down to 1644, were 
published at Hartford in Connecticut, in 
1790. The third part was discovered in 
the tower of the old South church in 
Boston, in 1816. On collating the man- 
uscript of the first two pai-ts with the 
printed volume, the latter was found to 
contain many errors ; and the whole 
work has been published by the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society, with the as- 
sistance of the legislature of that state ; 
the third part had never before been 
published. It continues the history down 
to the time of his death. Much inter- 
esting matter, and many important facts, 
are contained in this part. Of these, are 
relations of the various discussions be- 
tween the magistrates and deputies rela- 
tive to their respective powers ; an ac- 
count of the syfiod that met at Cambridge 
to establish the platform of church dis- 
ciple and government ; a defence against 
the charges which were raised to the 
prejudice of the colonists, by their ene- 
mies, and preferred before the commis- 
sioners in England. These all serve to 
fill up the delineation of the character of 
the fathers of New England to the mid- 
dle of the seventeenth century. 

The contents of Winthrop's "History 
of New England," are so various, that 
it is difficult to make an extract that will 
do justice to the author. But we select 
at a venture hifl " little speech," as he 
terms it. In 1645, when he was deputy 
governor, he was singled out from the 
rest of the magistrates, who had acted 
with him, to defend the legality of his 
proceedings, in committing to prison 
certain persons in Hingham, who had 
been concerned in some disturbance of 
the peace, and who refused to find sure- 
ties for their appearance at court. The 
day of WixTHROP's trial came, and he 



112 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



declined taking his seat upon the bench. 
Speakingof himself, as he does through- 
out, in the third person, he says : " The 
day appointed being come, the court as- 
sembled in the meetinghouse at Boston, 
Divers of the elders were present, and 
a great assembly of the people. The 
deputy governor, coming in with the 
rest of the magistrates, placed himself 
beneath, within the bar, and so sate un- 
covered. Some question was in court 
about his being in that place (for many 
of both the court and assembly were 
grieved at it). But the deputy telling 
them, that, being criminally accused, he 
might not sit as a judge in that cause, 
and if he were upon the bench, it would 
be a great disadvantage to him, for he 
could not take that liberty to plead the 
cause, which he ought to be allowed at 
the bar ; upon this the court was satis- 
fied." 

Winthrop was fully and honorably ac- 
quitted of all the charges brought against 
him. The governor (Dudley) read the 
sentence of the court. " Then was the 
deputy governor desired by the court to 
go up and take his place again upon the 
bench, which he did accordingly, and 
the court being about to arise, he desired 
leave for a little speech, which was to 
this effect : — 

" 1 suppose something may be expect- 
ed from me, upon this charge that is be- 
fallen me, which moves me to speak now 
to you ; yet I intend not to intermeddle 
in the- proceedings of the court, or with 
any of the persons concerned therein. 
Only I bless God, that I see an issue of 
this troublesome business. I also ac- 
knowledge- the justice of the court, and, 
for mine own part, I am well satisfied. 
I was publicly charged, and I am pub- 
licly and legally acquitted, which is all 
I did expect or desire. And though this 
be sufficient for my justification before 
men, yet not so before the God, who 
hath seen so much amiss in my dispen- 
sations (and even in this affair) as calls 
me to be humble. For to be publicly 
and criminally charged in this court, is 
matter of humiliation (and I desire to 
make a right use of it), notwithstanding 
1 be thus acquitted. If her father had 
spit in her face (saith thu Lord concern- 



ing Miriam), should she not have been 
ashamed seven days ? Shame had lien 
upon her, whatever the occasion had 
been. I am unwilling to stay you from 
your urgent affairs, yet give me leave 
(upon this special occasion) to speak a 
little more to this assembly. It may be 
of some good use, to inform and rectify 
the judgment of some of the people, and 
may. prevent such distempei-s as have 
arisen amongst us. The great questions 
that have troubled the countiy, are about 
the authority of the magistrates and the 
liberty of the people. It is yourselves 
who have called us to this office, and be- 
ing called by you, we have our authority 
from God, in way of an ordinance, such 
as hath the image of God eminently 
stamped upon it, the contempt and vio- 
lation whereof hath been vindicated with 
examples of divine vengeance. I en- 
treat you to consider, that, when you 
choose magistrates, you take them from 
among yourselves, meii subject to like 
passions as you are. Therefore when 
you see infirmities in us, you should re- 
flect upon your own, and that would 
make you bear the more with us, and 
not be severe censurers of the failings of 
your magistrates, when you have contin- 
ual experience of the like infirmities in 
yourselves and others. We account him 
a good servant, who breaks not his cov- 
enant. The covenant between you and 
us is the oath you have taken of us, which 
is to this purpose, that we shall govern 
you, and judge your causes by the rules 
of God's laws and our own, according to 
our best skill. When you agree with a 
workman to build you a ship or house, 
&c., he undertakes as well for his skill 
as for his faithfulness, for it is his pro- 
fession, and you pay him for both. But 
when you call one to be a magistrate, 
he doth not profess nor undertake to have 
sufficient skill for that office, nor can you 
furnish him with gifts, &c., therefore 
you must run the hazard of his skill and 
ability. But if he fail in faithfulness, 
which by his oath he is bound unto, that 
he must answer for. If it fall out that 
the case be clear to common apprehen- 
sion, and the rule clear also, if he trans- 
gress hei-e, the eiTor is not in the skill, 
but in the evil of the will ; it must be re- j 



DESCRIPTION or THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



ii:^ 



quired of him. But if the cause be 
doubtful, or the rule doubtful, to men 
of such understanding and parts as your 
magistrates are, if your magistrates 
should err here, yourself must bear it. 

" For the other point concerning lib- 
erty, I observe a great mistake in the 
country about that. There is a twofold 
liberty, natural (I mean as our nature is 
now corruj)t) and civil or federal. The 
first is common to man with beasts and 
other creatures. By this, man, as he 
stands in relation to man simply, hath 
liberty to do what he lists ; it is a liberty 
to evil as well as to good. This liberty 
is incompatible and inconsistent with 
authority, and can not endure the least 
restraint of the most just authority. The 
exercise and maintaining of this liberty 
make men grow more evil, and in time 
to be worse than brute beasts : omnes 
sumus licentia deteriores. This is that 
great enemy of truth and peace, that wild 
beast, which all the ordinances of God 
are bent against, to restrain and subdue 
it. The other kind of liberty I call civil 
or federal, it may also be termed moral, 
in reference to the covenant between God 
and man, in the moral law, and the pol- 
itic covenants and constitutions, amongst 
men themselves. This liberty is the 
proper end and object of authority, and 
can not subsist without it: and it is lib- 
erty, to that only which is good, just, and 
honest. This liberty you ai'e to stand 
for, with the hazard (not only of your 
goods, but) of your lives, if need be. 
Whatsoever crosseth this, is not author- 
ity, but a distemper thereof. This liber- 
ty is maintained and exercised in a way of 
subjection to authority; it is of the same 
kind of liberty wherewith Christ hath 
made us free. The woman's own choice 
makes such a man her husband; yet being 
so chosen, he is her lord, and she is to be 
subject to him, yet in a way of liberty, 
not of bondage ; and a true wife accounts 
her subjection her honor and freedom, 
and would not think her condition safe 
and free, but in her subjection to her 
husband's authority. Such is the liberty 
of the church under the authority of 
Christ, her king and husband ; his yoke 
is so easy and sweet to her as a bride's 
ornaments ; and if, though frowardness. 



or wantonness, &c., she shake it off, at 
any time, she is at no rest in her spirit, 
until she take it up again ; and, whether 
her lord smiles upon her, and embraceth 
her in his arms, or whether he frowns, 
or rebukes, or smites her, she apprehends 
the sweetness of his love in all, and is 
refreshed, supported, and instructed, by 
every such dispensation of his authority 
over her. On the other side, ye know 
who they are that complain of this yoke, 
and say, ' Let us break their bands, &c., 
we will not have this man to rule over 
us.' Even so, brethren, it will be be- 
tween you and your magistrates. If you 
stand for your natural corrupt liberties, 
and will do what is good in your own 
eyes, you will not endure the least weight 
of authority, but will murmur, and op- 
pose, and be always striving to shake 
off that yoke; but if you will be satisfied 
to enjoy such civil and lawful liberties, 
such as Christ allows you, then will you 
quietly and cheerfully submit unto that 
authority which is set over you, in all 
the administrations of it, for your good. 
Wherein, if we fail at any time, we hope 
we shall be willing (by God's assistance) 
to hearken to good advice from any of 
you, or in any other way of God; so 
shall your liberties be preserved, in up- 
holding the honor and the power of au- 
thority amongst you." 

It is a very full evidence of the esteem 
in which he was held, that, when many 
gentlemen of character, some of them 
of noble alliance, were concerned in the 
same undertaking with him, he, by a 
general voice, was placed at their head. 
He says himself, in his excellent journal, 
which is indeed a treasure to all who 
revere the memory of their ancestors : 
" I was first chosen to be governor with- 
out my seeking or expectation, there be- 
ing then divers other gentlemen, who, 
for their abilities, every way were far 
more fit." 

He was eleven times chosen governor, 
and spent his whole estate in the public 
service. His son John, and his grand- 
son, Fitz-John (who was a captain in 
Col. Reed's regiment at the Restoration 
in 1660), wei'e successively governors 
of Connecticut colony, and Wait-Still, 
another grandson, was chief justice of 



8 



114 



DESCRIl'TION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 




The DeathBed of Winthrop. 



Massachusetts. Stephen, another son 
of the elder Winthrop, went to England 
in 1645 or 1646, had the command of a 
regiment, and succeeded Harrison in his 
major-generalship, was a member of 
parliament for Scotland in 1656, and 
was much trusted by the Protector. 
The family, in every generation, have 
occupied high stations, and been deser- 
vedly held in great respect. Its charac- 
ter is now most worthily sustained by 
Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, the late 
distinguished and eloquent speaker of 
the house of representatives, in the Uni- 
ted States' Congress ; and the Hon. 
David Sears, of Boston. This latter 
gentleman has been repeatedly a mem- 
ber of the legislature of Massachusetts, 
as both repi'esentative and senator, be- 
tween the years 1816 and 1851. 

Governor Winthrop died March 26, 
1649, in the 62d year of his age, and 
was buried April 3d, in the northern 
corner of the King's chapel burying- 
ground. We may truly say of him, as 
he finely said of tlie husband of Lady 
Arabella Johnson, "He was a holy man 
and wise, and died in sweet peace." He 



conducted himself with such address and 
unshaken rectitude, as to render his char- 
acter universally respected among his 
contemporaries, and his memory dear to 
posterity. In his magnanimity, disin- 
terestedness, moderation, and harmoni- 
ous character, the father of Massachu- 
setts reminds us of the great "father of 
his country," and is the only name in 
our history worthy to stand as a parallel 
to Washington. 

" His was the upright deed, 
His ihe unswerving course, 
'Mid every thwarting current's force, 
Unchanged by venal aim, or flattery's hollow reed : 
"1 he holy truth walked ever by his side, 
And in his bosom dwelt, compauioa, judge, and 
But when disease revealed [guide. 

To bis uncloudc-d eye, 
The stern destroyer standing nigh, 
Where turned he for a shield ? 
Wrapt he the robe of stainless rectitude 
Around his heart, to meet cold Jordan's flood ? 
Gra.sped he the staff of pride, 
His steps, through death's dark vale to guide ? 
Ah, no ! self righteousness he cast aside. 
Clasping, with firm and fearless faith, the cross of 
Him who died, 
Serene, serene, 
He passed the crumbling verge of this terrestrial 
Breatlied soft, in childlike trust, [scene, 

The parting groan. 
Gave back to ilvst its dust — 
To Heaven its own." 



THE WINTHROP FAMILY TOMB, IN KING'S CHAPEL BURYING-GROUND, 

TREMONT STREET, BOSTON. 

This ancient Monument originally had inscribed on it the Epitaph which is given 
below ; but it is said that the letters having become nearly obliterated by time, or injured 
by accident or design, during the Revolution, the stone was replaced by another, which 
bears the names and ages of the members of the family as follows : — 

JOHN WINTHROP, 

GOVERNOR OF MASSACHUSETTS, 

Died 1649. 

Major-Gene RAL 

WAIT STILL WINTHROP, 

Died September 1th, 1717. Aged 76 Years. 

ANN WINTHROP SEARS, 

The Wife of David Sears, 
Died Oct. 2d, 1789. Aged 33 Years. 
Here also rest the remains of John Winthkop, first Governor of Connecticut, 
[eldest son of John, the Founder of Boston, and first Governor of Massachusetts.] 
He died at Boston, 5th April, 1676. 

FiTz-JoHN WiNTHROP, his SOU, Govemor of Connecticut, died at Boston, 27th 
November, 1707. 

Thomas L. Winthrop, Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts, died 22d 
Feb. 1840. 



STAND TRAVELLER, 

And admire ye Tomb, 

And to ye Public Tears add your own. 

Bewail ye public Loss, 

If of ye publick you are part 

This place is a Prince's Court 

Rather than a Tomb. 

This marble covers dust 

Worthy to be enclosed in Gold. 

Four WINTHR,OPS Ue buried in this Tomb, 

Who were sufficient to enrich ev'n ye four quarters of 

ye Earth. 

He is xmacquainted with ye history of New England 

Who is ignorant of this Family, 

And he has no regard for Universal Virtue 

That does not highly value it 

The last of these 

here InteiT'd 

Was Wait Winthrop, Esq' 

Whose last Honour was this, 

That he was Govemour of New England, 

He was, alas ! he was 

Of New England, ye glory & Defence, 

The Light and Stay. 

Major-General of Massachusett's Colony, 

Of a noble yet peaceful disposition, 

And who for his Country and for Peace could die. 

President of ye Council for ye Province, 

Whose chiefest care it always was 

That ye Commonwealth might receive no damage; 

And in whom many died. 

Chief Judge, 

Who paid an equal regard to Justice & Clemency. 

He went thro' ye most honourable 

Stations in ye Government; 



And adom'd ye Honours w'ch he here, 

Deserving those he bore not 

A person of ye most undissembled piety 

And unspotted probity. 

Of an exalted yet a modest Genius. 

He placed all things beneath himself, 

Himself beneath all men. 

Benevolent tow'rds all, 

And most so tow'ds ye poor & needy. 

Injurious to none not even to enemies; 

An enemy to none, 

Ev'n tho' highly provok'd. 

No unhappy person was by him rejected. 

Nor poor one refus'd admittance, 

Nor did any go away displeas'd. 

He was skillfull in physick. 

And being possessed of Golden Secrets, 

Indeed more valuable than Gold itself, 

And having obtained Universal Remedies, 

WTiich Hippocrates & Heknont never knew, 

All that were sick where e'er he came 

He freely restor'd to health. 

And made almost his whole study of Nature 

Subservient to Medicine. 

He that under this stone now sleeps in death, 

Still lives in ye hearts of thousands 

Whose lives he has prolonged. 

The merits of Winthkop with Him 

Oblivion shall not bury. 

He was born ye 27th day of December 1641, 

Died ye 7th day of September 1717, 

In ye 76xth year of his age. 

They who value Life & still enjoy I^ 

Wish'd him a Thousand years continuance here, 

An age exceeding that of Methusalem. 



116 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP MASSACHUSETTS. 



John Quincy Adams was born in 
that part of Braintree, now Quincy, near 
Boston, July 11, 1767 — in the midst of 
that deep, wide, stormy excitement which 
preceded the separation of the then col- 
onies from the British empire. In the 
agitation of that period, his father John 
Adams, bore a leading part ; and his 
mother, a strong-minded woman, worthy 
of that heroic age, had no thought or 
feeling that did not sympathize with her 
husband and her country. The lessons 
of his infancy were lessons of patriotism 
and of resistance to wrong. The blood 
that circled in his veins was alive with 
the spirit of inflexible opposition to ar- 
bitrary power. He was nine years old 
at the date of the declaration of inde- 
pendence. 

Earlyin 1778, his father, who had been 
ap|)ointed commissioner with Franklin 
and Arthur Lee, at the court of Ver- 
sailles, took him to France. Thus early 
did he become cognizant of public affairs, 
and paiticularly of diplomatic business. 
The elder Adams was training his son for 
a life of patriotic statesmanship. A treaty 
having been signed by which France rec- 
ognised the United States as an inde- 
pendent power, Mr. Adams returned with 
his son in the same vessel which brought 
to our shores the first ambassador from 
France — the first that ever came to us 
from any foreign power. 

Near the close of 1779, John Adams 
was again sent abroad by Congress, as 
minister plenipotentiary to negotiate a 
peace with Great Britain ; and again his 
son John Quincy, then in his thirteenth 
year, accompanied him to Paris, nxiA 
thence, a few months afterward, to Hol- 
land. The son was placed in school first 
at Paris, then at Amsterdam. After- 
ward, while his father continued in Hol- 
land, he pursued his studies at the uni- 
versity of Leyden. In July, 1781, Mr. 
Dana, of Massachusetts, who had accom- 
panied John Adams as secretai'y of lega- 
tion, went as minister plenipotentiary 
from Congress to the empress of Rus- 
sia ; and John Quincy Adams, then just 
fourteen years old, went with him as his 
private secretary. A few months after- 
ward he returned to his father in Hol- 
land. With his father he went to Paris, 



where he was present at the signing of 
the treaty of peace with Great Britain — 
the act by which the independence of 
his country was consuanmated. 

At the age of eighteen, his father per- 
mitted him to return to this country. He 
immediately became a student in Har- 
vard college, where he graduated with 
distinguished honor. He pursued the 
study of law for three years, having the 
celebrated Theophilus Parsons for his 
instructor ; and then having been admit- 
ted to the bar, he commenced the prac- 
tice of that profession in Boston. 

In 1794, when he was just twenty- 
seven years of age, he received from 
President Washington the appointment 
of minister to the Netherlands. From 
that time to 1801, he was in Europe, em- 
ployed by his country in various dip- 
lomatic services. Just as General Wash- 
ington was retiring from oflice, he ap- 
pointed Mr. Adams minister plenipoten- 
tiary to the court of Portugal. While on 
his way to Lisbon he received a new 
commission, changing his destination to 
Berlin. During his residence of about 
three years and a half in Berlin, he con- 
cluded an important commercial treaty 
with Prussia — thus accomplishing the 
object of his mission. He was recalled 
near the close of his father's administra- 
tion, and arrived in his native country in 
September, 1801. 

In 1802, he was chosen by the Boston 
district to the senate of Massachusetts, 
and soon after was elected by the legis- 
lature a senator in Congress for six years, 
from March 3, 1803. He remained in 
the senate of the United States, until 
1808, when he resigned. While in the 
senate he received the appointment of 
professor of rhetoric in Harvard Univer- 
sity, an office which he filled with dis- 
tinguished ability. 

In 1809, he was appointed by Presi- 
dent Madison, envoy extraordinary and 
minister plenipotentiary to the court of 
Russia, where he rendered the most im- 
portant services to his country. By his 
influence with that court he induced 
Russia to offer her mediation between 
Great Britain and the United States, in 
the war of 1812, and when the proper 
time had arrived, he was placed by 




1: 



118 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS. 



President Madison at the head of five 
distinguished commissioners to negotiate 
a treaty of peace, which was concluded 
at Ghent, in 1814. Mr. Adams was then 
associated with Mr. Clay, and Mr. Gal- 
latin, to negotiate a commerical conven- 
tion with Great Britain, and was forth- 
with appointed minister plenipotentiary 
to the court of St. James. While in 
Europe, in 1811, he was appointed as- 
sociate justice of the supreme court of 
the United States, which he declined. 

Peace being restored, he resided for 
two years as the representative of his 
country at the couit of Great Britain. 
At the commencement of Mr. Monroe's 
administration, in 1817, he was called 
home to be secretaiy of state. For eight 
years in the department of state, he was 
the guiding mind of that wise, peaceful, 
and prosperous administration. That 
memorable administration was perhaps 
as much the administration of John 
Quincy Adams as it was that of James 
Monroe. 

In 1825, Mr. Adams was elected pres- 
ident by the votes of the states in the 
house of representatives, the voting in 
the electoral colleges having resulted in 
no choice. Of the measures and policy 
of his administration, we may not speak 
particularly. In general they were the 
same with those which had characterized 
the administration of Monroe. 

Two years after his retirement from 
the presidency, the people of the con- 
gressional district in which he resided, 
elected him to represent them in Con- 
gress. At the commencement of the 
session in 1831, he took his seat in the 
hall of the house of I'epresentatives, and 
in that place of honor and of duty, the 
I representative of Plymouth Rock, with 
i generous blood from the May-Flower in 
his veins, was continued by nine succes- 
j sive elections. It is believed to have 
been the earnest wish of his heart to di ^ 
like Chatham in the midst of his labors. 
It was a sublime thought that where he 
had toiled in the house of the nation, in 
hours of the day devoted to its service, 
the stroke of death should reach him, and 
there severthe ties of love and patriotism 
which bound him to the earth. He fell 
in his seat, on the 21st of February, 1848, 



attacked by paralysis, of which he had 
before been a victim. He was removed 
to the apartment of the speaker, where 
he remained surrounded by afflicted 
friends, till the weary clay resigned its 
immortal spirit two days afterward. 
" This is the end of earth !" Brief but 
emphatic words. They were the last 
uttered by the dying Christian. 

In this long career of public service, 
Mr. Adams was distinguished by faith- 
ful attention not only to all the great du- 
ties of his stations, but to all their less 
and minor duties. He was not the Sala- 
minian galley, to be launched only on 
extraordinary occasions, but he was the 
ready vessel, always launched when the 
duties of his station required it, be the 
occasion great or small. As president, 
as cabinet minister, as minister abroad, 
he examined all questions that came be- 
fore him, and examined all, in all their 
parts, in all the minutiae of their detail, 
as well as in all thevastness of their com- 
pi-ehension. As senator, and as a mem- 
ber of the house of representatives, the 
obscure committee-room was as much 
the witness of his laborious application 
to the drudgery of legislation as the halls 
of the two houses were to the ever-ready 
speech, replete with knowledge, which 
instructed all hearers, enlightened all 
subjects, and gave dignity and ornament 
to debate. 

In the observance of all the proprie- 
ties of life, Mr. Adams was a most noble 
and impressive example. He cultivated 
the minor as well as the greater virtues. 
Wherever his presence could give aid and 
countenance to what was useful and hon- 
orable to man, there he was. In the 
exercises of the school and of the college 
— in the meritoi-ious meetings of the 
agricultural, mechanical, and commercial 
societies — in attendance upon Divine 
worship — he gave the punctual attend- 
ance rarely seen but in those who are 
free from the weight of piiblic cares. He 
has been gathei'ed to hi6 fathers, leaving 
behind him the memory of public ser- 
vices which are the histoi-y of his country 
for half a century, and the example of a 
life, public, and private, which should be 
the study and the model of the genera- 
tions of his countrymen. 




This is one of the small states 
of the Union, but it has performed 
a part of much importance to the 
general interests of the country, in 
different ways and at different pe- 
riods. It was not only one of the 
original states, but contained two 
of the oldest colonies, having been 
settled in 1636, sixteen years after 
the landing at Plymouth. 

The boundaries were long un- 
settled, and, on all its four sides, 
contesting claims caused agitation 
and difficulty for years : on the east, with Rhode Island ; on the north, with 
Massachusetts ; and on the west, with New York : which three states are now 
separated from Connecticut chiefly by artificial limits. Having settled several 
towns on Longr Island, Connecticut lonsf extended her iurisdiction across the 
sound ; and the beautiful valley of Wyoming, in Pennsylvania, was once occupied 
by her, as part of her territory, being included in the royal patent of the colony, 
which extended to the Pacific ocean. 

The limits of the state, as long since finally settled, extend ft'om latitude 
40^ 2' to 41° north, and between longitude 71° 20' and 73° 15' west. It con- 
tains 4,674 square miles. 

The soil is generally poor, with some remarkable exceptions, especially on the 
fertile meadows of Connecticut river. 

By a glance at the map, the reader will see that this state is crossed by three 
principal ranges of high land, from south to north, which give their general direc- 
tion to the thi-ee chief streams — the Connecticut in the middle; the Thames, or 
Shetucket, in the east; and the Housatonic in the west. Some parts of the hills 
are rough and of considerable elevation, but scarcely deserve the name of moun- 
tains. Most of them consist of granite and other primitive rocks; and to that 
formation most of the country belongs, except the meadows, which are a rich 



120 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



alluvial soil, annually increased by par- 
ticles left by the floods, and washed 
down from the high land by the rains. 
These lowlands are generally of great 
fertility — those of the Connecticut, es- 
pecially, being considered as the best 
in New England, and equal to almost 
any other in the United States. The 
uplands, however, have a soil of but 
middling quality; yet being divided into 
small farms, and cultivated by an indus- 
trious and intelligent people, they are 
made more productive than some better 
lands in less favorable circumstances. 

In some parts of the state are small 
tracts, quite unfit for cultivation ; but in 
many of the roughest and wildest regions 
are found valuable quarries and mines, 
many of which are profitably wrought ; 
and the discriminating eye of science 
has recently recognised some of the rai-e 
minerals before discovered in only a few 
localities in the world.* The greatest 
treasure of the hilly regions, however, 
is an immense amount of water-power, 
afforded by the numerous streams which 
rush down their declivities, and now 
give motion to hundreds of mills and 
thousands of curious machines, which 
the intelligence of the inhabitants has 
introduced, or their ingenuity invented. 
These pnjduce in great numbers the 
great variety of articles annually man- 
ufactured both for home use and for dis- 
tant marke'ts. Most of these find their 
way first to the steamboats, or railroad 
cars, which now keep up an active inter- 
course with the city of New York, and 
are thence despatched in different di- 
rections, repaying, many times over, 
the cost of such raw materials as are 
brouofht from other regions. 

Large steamboats run daily between 
New York and New Haven, Hartford, 
Norwich, and Stonington, each commu- 
nicating with a railroad, and thus afford- 
ing frequent, rapid, and commodious 
means of travelling and exportation, 
scarcely to be exceeded, and highly ad- 
vantageous to commerce as well as to 
numerous travellers who are attracted 
by the beauty of the country. Steam- 
boats of smaller size ply daily between 

* See the Geological Survey of Connecticut, pub- 
lished ia 1839. 



New York and the towns lying along 
the western part of the sound ; while 
numerous sloops still find employment 
in the coasting trade. Foreign com- 
merce is carried on to a limited extent ; 
and several vessels from Stonington are 
engaged in sealing, and more from New 
London in whaling. 

The aspect of Connecticut is gener- 
ally pleasing to the eye. Its small terri- 
tory embraces a great variety of natural 
scenery, everywhere embellished by art, 
and displaying the evidences of a numer- 
ous, intelligent, industrious, ingenious, 
and prosperous people. The surface is 
marked by roads running in all direc- 
tions, and subdivided into thousands of 
farms of small size ; while the flourish- 
ing towns and villages which meet the 
view in great numbers, consist of taste- 
ful and comfortable dwellings, as far 
removed from splendor on the one hand, 
as from meanness and poverty on the 
other. These arfe evidences of the gen- 
eral degree of comfort and equality which 
prevails among the people ; while the 
churches and schoolhouses, distributed 
at short intervals all over the surface, 
indicate the attachment which the peo- 
ple have always shown for learning and 
religion. 

The facilities and accommodations 
here offered to travellers, are such as are 
affoi'ded by the most advanced state of 
the arts and comforts of life. 

In 1818, the state adopted the present 
constitution, in place of the old charter 
granted to the colony by King Charles I. 

The history of Connecticut under the 
charter presents a remarkable example 
of stability and uniformity in govern- 
ment, a parallel to which it would be 
difficult to find in any country. All the 
legislative oflScers, except representa- 
tives, were chosen every year by the 
whole body of freemen, as were the 
governor, deputy-governor, secretary, 
and treasurer. The representatives were 
chosen twice a year by the towns. Many 
of these various officers, even the higher, 
held their places till death or advanced 
age. General Wyllys was elected sec- 
retary sixty-three years in succession, 
including the agitated periods of the 
stamp-act and the revolution. All ju- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



121 



dicial officers were appointed annually by 
the general assembly, and the members 
of congress by general ticket. Within 
a period of more than twenty years pre- 
ceding the adoption of the constitution 
in 1818, the number of men who lost 
their places in the assembly and coun- 
cil, in consequence of a loss of popular- 
ity, was only two ; yet this was a time 
marked by excitement and violent polit- 
ical parties, embracing the wars of Eu- 
rope and the last American war. 

At the time when the constitution was 
adopted in the place of the charter, a 
change took place in the political opin- 
ions of the majority of the people ; and 
some of the conflicting views which have 
since existed in the country, have by 
turns prevailed in Connecticut. In tlie 
meantime, almost every kind of business 
for which the state is adapted has been 
carried on with activity, and great ex- 
ertion made to improve the natural re- 
sources ; while commerce, the carrying- 
trade, and the settlement of near and 
distant regions, have drawn away, either 
temporarily or permanently, thousands 
of the people, leaving but a small in- 
crease of population to be shown by the 
census tables. 

Exertions were made in different ways 
for the good of the Indians. For the 
security of their rights of property, a 
law was early passed by the legislature 
in their favor, prohibiting private pur- 
chases of land, &c. 

The influence of this law was, as may 
be supposed, most favorable to the In- 
dians. No man being permitted to hold 
land purchased of them without the au- 
thority of the government, all inducement 
was cut off from unprincipled persons 
to overreach them, to abuse, destroy, or 
to drive them away. When land was 
purchased of the natives, they were gen- 
erally secured in the possession and 
permanent enjoyment of such tracts as 
they wished to reserve ; and some of 
these are still held by their descendants, 
unalienable without the express consent 
of the legislature. Officers, called su- 
perintendents, are intrusted with the 
oversight of them, and reports are made 
by these at every session of the legis- 
lature. 



Attempts to introduce Christianity 
among several of the principal tribes 
were made, in early times, under the 
authority of the legislature, but with lit- 
tle effect. Their chiefs and head men 
were generally attached to their pagan 
systems. Several of the Indians, how- 
ever, were converts, among whom was 
Samson Occum, long a distinguished 
preacher of the gospel. But it appears 
that no man was found with the zeal and 
perseverance of Eliot, called the Apos- 
tle to the Indians, who displayed such 
an unconquerable spirit in his prolonged 
exertions for the instruction and civil- 
ization of the Massachusetts Indians. 
Eliot himself felt so much the duly of 
having something done for the Indians 
in Connecticut, that he applied to the 
legislature and obtained a call for a 
meeting of the principal men of some of 
the tribes ; but they rejected his offers, 
and never accepted Christianity as a 
people. 

The history of Connecticut impresses 
important reflections on the considerate 
mind. 

We have here an authentic account 
of the foundation of a state on principles 
of the highest nature, and for the most 
valuable objects that ever were proposed 
by any set of men. In this respect the 
history of all the kingdoms and empires 
of antiquity sinks into insignificance, 
and appears deficient in interest, as their 
origin was owing only to motives of ne- 
cessity, or the desire of profit or power. 
The Spaniards, it is true, pretended to 
have in view the introduction of Chris- 
tianity into South America ; but their 
real object was conquest, and the history 
as well as the results of their policy too 
strongly attests the fact. 

The objects and plans of the New 
England colonies would have been well 
worthy of our high estimation, even if 
their experiment had failed or had not 
been tried. But now, when the proofs 
of their success are laid before us, and 
it so far exceeds all anticipation, the mind 
perceives powerful reasons for attend- 
ing to this unexampled branch of human 
history. And the study is recommended 
by higher considerations than those of 
mere amusement. The charactei's de- 



122 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



velopedby the good and intelligent men 
who are presented, are useful subjects 
of contemplation ; the high value which 
they set on religion and learning, on pri- 
vate virtue and public faith, lead us more 
justly to appreciate and more warmly to 
admire them ; while the disinterested- 
ness of their lives tends to make us bet- 
ter, wiser, more active, and more useful, 
in every sphere and in all situations in 
life. 

Considerable improvement has been 
made in agriculture in this state within 
a few yeai's. Agricultural societies have 
diffused knowledge, encouraged experi- 
ments, and favored the introduction of 
improved implements and methods. 
Trade, manufactures, and the learned 
professions (as they are perhaps improp- 
erly called), have diverted attention too 
much from that business which is so 
highly honorable and affords ample room 
for the application of science. Improve- 
ments might probably be introduced in 
agriculture, which would furnish the 
state with a larger supply of grain than 
it now raises, and prevent the necessity 
of making the present large annual im- 
portations. Wheat has suffered greatly 
ever since the year 1777 from the Hes- 
sian fly, which derives its name from the 
fact that it first commenced its ravages 
on that important crop during the year 
when the Hessian ti'oops came to the 
country. 

Silk has been made with success in 
Connecticut for many years, though on 
a limited scale. The cultivation of the 
white mulberry-ti'ee was introduced into 
Mansfield in 1760. In 1783 the assem- 
bly offered for ten years a bounty of ten 
shillings, lawful money, for every hun- 
dred white mulberry-trees planted, and 
threepence for every ounce of silk man- 
ufactured. In 17.35 the American silk 
company was formed in New Haven, and 
a large number of mulberry-trees were 
planted there and elsewhere. In Mans- 
field, in 1793, three hundred and sixty- 
two pounds of raw silk were made. In 
1832 a bounty of one dollar was offered 
for every hundred trees three years old, 
and fifty cents a pound for silk reeled 
and fit for manufacture. In 1834 the 
bounty was extended to the Chinese mul- 



berry, and a company was incorporated 
with a donation of fifteen thousand dol- 
lars, thirteen and one third per cent, of 
which was to be paid to Messrs. Gray 
and Bolton, the inventors of improve- 
ments in silk-machinery, for the use of 
them in the state. The speculation in 
mulberry-trees which prevailed in 1839, 
and the subsequent revulsion, caused 
much loss in this state. 

In 1832 the paper made in Connec- 
ticut was valued at $564,000. This is 
connected with the manufacture of books, 
which was lately canned on to such an 
extent, that the number of volumes print- 
ed at Hartford was for several years 
greater than in any other place in the 
United States, excepting only Boston, 
New York, and Philadelphia. 

New Haven. — This city is celebrated 
for its beauty, being laid out in squares 
four hundred feet in size, divided by 
fine broad and straight avenues, planted 
with large shady elms and other trees, 
and well built with edifices in good taste, 
adorned with gardens, and inhabited by 
an intelligent and refined population. 

This is the largest town in the state, 
and one of its capitals. It is chiefly dis- 
tinguished, however, as one of the first 
colonies, and the site of Yale College. 
The oldest edifice belonging to this ven- 
erable and flourishing institution was of 
wood, and stood near the corner of Col- 
lege and Chapel streets. There are four 
buildings for students, each containing 
thirty-two rooms, a chapel, with a philo- 
sophical chamber and apparatus, and a 
lyceum, with recitation-rooms and the 
library. In the rear are the Trumbull 
picture-gallery, the common's hall, in a 
small building with the splendid miner- 
alogical cabinet above, purchased from 
the late Colonel Gibbs, of New York. 
A new building has lately been erected 
for the accommodation of the literary so- 
cieties of the college. In another build- 
ing is the chemical laboratory, where 
Professor Silliman delivers his lectures. 
The institution has above five hundred 
scholars. 

Next north of the college is the house 
of the president, and the professors 
have pleasant residences in the town. 

The medical institution is at the north 



124 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



end of College street, and the theologi- 
cal seminary on the green. 

The burying-ground is situated oppo- 
site the medical institution, and occu- 
pies a large extent of land, planted with 
trees, and containing a great number of 
beautiful monuments of different designs. 

The old burying-ground was in the 
middle of the green, in the rear of the 
Centre church ; and there are to be seen 
two ancient stone monuments, of a small 
size, which are supposed to mark the 
graves of two of the regicide judges, 
Wh alley and Dixwell. 

The Farmington and Northainpfon 
Canal, commencing near the head of the 
wharf in this city, is crossed by the 
traveller, in going up from the steam- 
boat, neat the market. The basin is 
large and commodious ; and the canal, 
passing through a part of the city and 
bending round along the outskirts on the 
north side, intersects several sti'eets, by 
which it is crossed on handsome bridges. 
It extends to Northampton, Massachu- 
setts. 

There are pleasant rides in various 
directions from New Haven, the roads 
being numerous, and the face of the 
country favorable. 

The Judges' Cave is on the summit of 
West rock, about a mile north of the 
bluif. It is formed by the crevices be- 
tween seven large rocks, apparently 
thrown together by some convulsion. It 
is small, and entirely above gi'ound, with 
a rude rock, like a column, on each hand. 
That on the right has this inscription : — 

" Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God !" 

to remind the visiter that the place once 
aftbrded shelter to Goffe and Whalley, 
two of the judges of King Charles the 
First, who escaped to the colonies and 
secreted themselves for some time in this 
solitary place. They were supplied with 
food by a family which resided near the 
foot of the mountain, and a little boy was 
despatched for them every day, who left 
a basket of provisions on a rock, with- 
out knowing what cause he was sub- 
serving. The place commands an ex- 
tensive view upon the country below, 
with a large tract of Long island and the 
sound. 



The manufactory of muskets is two 
miles north of New Haven, on the road 
to Hartford by Meriden, and at the fo(;t 
of East rock. It was established by 
Mr. Whitney, the well-known inventor 
of the cotton-jin. 

The New Haven and Hartford Rail- 
road, forty miles long, begins at the 
steamboat wharf, crosses Quinnepiack 
river, and passes through the townships 
of North Haven, Wallingford, Meriden, 
Berlin, and Wethersfield. 

It pursues the general course of the 
" old colonial road," the route taken in 
early times between New Haven and 
Hartford, which were independent col- 
onies. It was originally an Indian trail. 

Beyond New Haven, in Long Island 
sound, lies a cluster of islands called the 
Thimbles, famous in the traditions of 
the neighboring Connecticut coast, as 
the ancient resort of Captain Kidd, the 
notable pirate, whose treasures of solid 
gold, it is still believed by some, are 
concealed somewhere hereabouts. 

Saybrook. — At this place was the first 
settlement made by Europeans on Con- 
necticut river. It was undertaken at the 
earnest solicitation of many of the right- 
ful proprietors of the country on its 
banks, who had been despoiled of their 
possessions by their formidable enemies, 
the Pequods. The River Indians twice 
made application to the English at Ply- 
mouth and at Boston to obtain settlers 
from their native soil, offering to give 
them land enough, and to pay two hun- 
dred beaverskins annually for the bene- 
fit of their society. But the undertaking 
was considered too hazardous ; and it 
was not until the year 1635, when the 
Dutch at New York showed a deter- 
mination to seize upon the country, 
which they claimed as their own, that a 
small detachment of men was sent from 
Boston to prepare for opening a trade 
with the Indians, and to build a fort at 
the mouth of the river. Their haste was 
soon justified by events ; for immediately 
after their landing, a Dutch vessel en- 
tered, and, proceeding up to Hartford, 
landed a body of men, who soon estab- 
lished themselves in a fort they called 
Good Hope, on a spot they obtained 
from Pequod usurpers. 



DESCRIPTION Of the STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



125 



The settlement of Saybrook was be- 
gun under a grant made to Lord Say 
and Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by 
George Fenwick, esquire, who fled to 
this country with his family. The old 
fort stood near the present fort hill, upon 
an eminence which has since been de- 
stroyed by the waves ; and the ground 
immediately behind it was afterward oc- 
cupied by the fields and habitations of 
the colonists. It was expected from the 
first that the situation would render the 
place a great city ; and after the fear of 
the Indians had subsided, the whole pen- 
insula, which bears the name of Say- 
brook point, was laid out with the great- 
est regularity into fields of an equal size, 
except such parts as were reserved for 
the erection of public buildings. 

Many emigrants were once collected 
in England, and prepared for a voyage 
to this place. Some persons of high 
rank and importance were among them; 
and it is a well-authenticated fact that 
Oliver Cromwell had determined to em- 
bark in the enterprise, and was once on 
the very eve of quitting England for 
ever, when some unforeseen occurrence 
prevented him. 

The want of a harbor, and the obsta- 
cles presented to a free navigation by a 
large sandbar at the mouth of the river, 
have effectually prevented the expecta- 
tions of the settlers of Saybrook from 
being realized ; and no remains of their 
works can now be discovered, except in 
the rectangular forms of the fields, and 
the cellars of some of their dwellings, 
just beyond the burying-ground, the 
foundation-stones of which have since 
been employed in building the neigh- 
boring fences. One of the largest exca- 
vations is said to have been the cellar of 
the old college building. The soldiers 
were frequently attacked within a short 
distance of the fort by the Pequods, but 
they afterward ran a palisade across the 
isthmus which leads from the mainland. 
Yale college was placed here for a 
time. 

Connecticut River . — The shores of this 
principal stream of New England pre- 
sent a continued succession of hilly and 
picturesque country, with few interrup- 
tions of level land, from a little above 



Saybrook as far as Middletown. The 
roughness and rocky nature of the soil 
prevent the cultivation of many moun- 
tainous tracts, yet there are farms enough 
to give a considerable degree of softness 
to the scenery. The variety of rocky 
and wooded banks, mingling with little 
patches of cultivated ground, and the 
habitations scattered along the river, is 
very agreeable, and often affords scenes 
highly picturesque and delightful. 

Essex. — This is a small village, situ- 
ated on the ascent and summit of a hand- 
some elevation, seven miles from Say- 
brook. During the late war with Great 
Britain, this place was taken by the en- 
emy, who came up the river in launches, 
and, taking the inhabitants by surprise, 
occupied the town for a few hours. 

East Haddam. — The landing-place 
here is rocky, mountainous, and wild, 
and a good specimen of a large portion 
of the town to which it belongs. This 
region is famous for a kind of earth- 
quakes and subterranean sounds, which 
were formerly common for a short dis- 
tance round. They gave occasion to 
many superstitious reports, but have 
ceased within a few years. They were 
called Moodus noises, after the Indian 
name of the place. Large beryls and 
many other rare minerals are found in 
the neighborhood. 

Haddam is built on an eminence fifty 
or sixty feet high, which appears like 
the remains of an old bank of the river, 
descending to a little meadow which is 
covered with orchards, grazing ground, 
&c., while a range of commanding hills 
rise beyond. 

The Narrows. — Here the river turns 
abruptly to the east, and flows between 
two lofty hills, which it has divided at 
some long past period, before which, 
there is every reason to believe, the 
country for a great distance above was 
covered by a lake. 

Fort Hill is the last elevated part of 
the southern bank. It was formerly a 
little fortress belonjjino: to Sowheag-, an 
Indian chief, whose dominion extended 
over the present towns of Middletown, 
Chatham, and Wethersfield. 

Middletown is beautifully situated 
on the western bank of the Connecticut 



126 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



rivei', where the water is spread out to 
a considerable breadth, and disappears 
BO suddenly at the Narrows, that, from 
many points of view, it has the appear- 
ance of a small lake, with high, sloping, 
and cultivated shores. This is a most 
agreeable residence. 

The Wesleyan university has a build- 
ing one hundred and fifty feet long, fifty 
broad, and four stories high, with rooms 
for scholars ; a chapel, with recitation- 
rooms above, both of stone ; and an eat- 
ing-hall of brick, one hundred and twenty 
feet long, with a piazza. 

The quarries of freestone on the op- 
posite shore, in Chatham, have furnished 
a valuable building material for some 
years, and have been worked to a con- 
siderable extent. 

The Lead Mine is about two miles 
below the town, on the south shore of 
the river, where are several old shafts, 
which were sunk in the revolutionary 
war, in a slate rock. The ore is sul- 
phuret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly 
crystallized, and alfording a few speci- 
mens of fluate of lime, and other min- 
erals. 

The Cobalt Mine is about five miles 
east, in Chatham, at the foot of Rattle- 
snake hill. It is not worth working, at 
the usual price of the metal. Just south 
of it is a very pretty waterfall, about 
thirty feet high. 

Wethersfield. — This place is three 
miles from Hartford, and has a fine light 
soil, on an extensive level, probably once 
the bottom of a lake since drained by the 
deepening of the river's channel. It is 
peculiarly favorable to the culture of 
onions, which are exported in great 
quantities to various parts of the coun- 
try, the West Indies, &c. 

Wethersfield was the second settle- 
ment made by white men in Connec- 
ticut. In 1635, three or four men came 
to this place and spent the winter. 

The Connecticut Stateprison. — The 
situation of this institution is healthy, 
retired, and convenient to the water and 
the great road. It was completed in 
1817. What have heretofore been re- 
garded as the necessary evils of prisons 
will be found in this prison to be greatly 
reduced, and in many respects, even with 



regard to the prisoners, converted into 
benefits. 

Here the Auburn system has been 
established with some few deviations. 

The whole is under the direction of 
the superintendent — a man of firmness, 
judgment, and humanity. The men are 
brought out to their work at signals 
given by the bell. They lodge in sol- 
itary cells, and are not permitted to con- 
verse together while at work. They 
take their food in their cells, and when 
going to and from work or prayers, are 
obliged to march with the lock step. 
No blows are allowed to be given by 
the officers except in self-defence. 

The smiths' fires are supplied with 
Lehigh (Pennsylvania) coal for fuel, and 
part of the heat is conducted away in 
pipes to warm the apartments. The 
cells are fui'nished with comfortable beds 
and bedclothes, and a bible for each. 
They ai'e ranged in rows, and the keep- 
ers can look into them through grated 
doors ; at the same time the prisoners 
are not able to converse with each other. 
The effects of evil communication, so 
much and so banefully cherished in our 
old prisons, are thus effectually pre- 
vented. Neither officers nor convicts 
are allowed to use ardent spirits. 

Hartford, one of the capitals of the 
state, is on Connecticut river, thirty-four 
miles north of New Haven. It is a place 
of considerable business. There are 
the City hotel, coffeehouse and other 
inns, several fine churches, &c. 

The Charter Oak. — In the lower part 
of the town, in the sti-eet which runs east 
from the south church, is the ancient and 
respectable seat of the Wyllis family, 
who were among the early settlers of 
Hartford, and have made a conspicuous 
figure in the history of the state, as well 
as of the town, by holding the secretary's 
office for a long course of time. The 
principal object of curiosity here, the 
fine old oak, stands on the street in front. 
It is said to have been a forest-tree be- 
foi'e the land was cleared, yet it appears 
as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole 
in its trunk was hidden the charter of 
the colony, when Sir Edmund Andross 
sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there it 
remained for some years. This inter- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



127 



esting document is still preserved in the 
office of the secretary of the state. 

The Asi/lum for the Education of the 
Deaf and Dumb, is about a mile west 
of the town, on Tower hill. It was the 
earliest institution of the kind in Amer- 
ica. The principal building is large, or- 
namented with pilasters, and surrounded 
by a garden and pleasant grounds. The 
house of the superintendent is near by, 
and the whole enjoys a fine situation, 
with a very commanding prospect and 
a healthy neighborhood. 

The number of scholars is about two 
hundred. Some of them are supported 
by a fund belonging to the institution, 
and others by the states of Massachu- 
setts, New Hampshire, «&c. Ten sim- 
ilar institutions now exist in New York, 
Philadelphia, Kentucky, &c. 

The Retreat for the Insane, a little 
south of the city, makes a handsome ap- 
pearance, being a stone building one 
hundred and fifty feet long and fifty feet 
wide, the wings having three stoi'ies, and 
tlie main building four. It is capable 
of containing about fifty patients, and is 
warmed by flues. The grounds con- 
nected with the institution include about 
seventeen acres. A young lady who 
had been severely afflicted with deep 
melancholy, but recovered at this insti- 
tution, wrote the following lines, which 
were handed to the excellent matron on 
leaving the place : — 

"Farewell, Retreat; I will remember thee, 
For thou hast been a hiding place to me : 
When, on the waves of sorrow, hither driven, 
I found this refuge to the helpless given. 
Oh, what an hour of darkness and despair, 
\\'hen not a ray of hope was shining there. 
But one continued storm my sky o'erspread, 
Ai)d poured its waters on my weary head! 
Then did thy gentle form, amid the gloorti. 
Appear like Mercy smiling o'er the tomb ; 
With tender accents sooth my fears to rest. 
And smooth the anxious billows in mj' breast; 
With generous feeling, still each want supply — 
Now seem to sympathize in every wgh. 
H(jw dear the hand that wipes the tear away. 
And kindness, doubly sweet in such a day I 
Heie memory, too, shall trace thy love sincere, 
And oft, in fancy, hear thy footstei)a near. 
Dei;p in my heart .shall this remembrance be — 
The sorrows I have known, thy love to me. 
And, though divided by Time's Hying hour. 
Yet may we bow before the Mighty Power 
\\'hich bids us live and strive to share his love. 
That we may meet in brighter worlds above." 

New London is fifty-four miles east 
of New Haven, and one hundred and 



twenty east-northeast of Now York. It 
is situated irregularly, principally at the 
foot of a hill facing the east, and wears 
an appearance of decline ; but some of 
the houses are handsome, and there are 
several fine situations near the top. 

The harbor is one of the most ac- 
cessible, safe, and commodious, in the 
United States, lying near the ocean and 
the sound, almost surrounded by high 
land, and having water enough for ships- 
of-war quite up to the wharves, with a 
fine sandy bottom near the shores. 

Fort Griswold, opposite New Lon- 
don, was gan-isoned by a few continen- 
tal troops in the year 1781, during the 
revolution, when Benedict Arnold, after 
his desertion of the American cause, 
appeared off the harbor with a British 
force on the 6th of September ; and land- 
ing eight hundred men on each point of 
the harbor, marched up and took Fort 
Trumbull, and burned the town. Col. 
Eyre, who commanded the troops on 
the eastern shore, proceeded toward 
Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of 
truce, demanded a surrender. 

But, before this time, Colonel Led- 
yard had entered the fort and garrisoned 
it with one hundred and twenty men, 
chiefly militia volunteers from the neigh- 
borhood. The British troops had ad- 
vanced under cover of a wood, and in- 
vested the fort; but the Americans, after 
defending themselves for some time, and 
beating off" their enemies once, finally 
surrendered when resistance would have 
been entirely useless. The enemy had 
lost forty-one ofllicers and men, who were 
buried near the spot ; with Colonel Eyre, 
the commander, wounded, and Major 
Montgomery killed. After the surren- 
der, however, a massacre of the prison- 
ers took place, which cast the deepest 
disgrace on the expedition ; seventy of- 
ficers and men being the victims, most 
of whom were heads of families. 

Fort Hill is a commanding eminence 
about four miles east from New Lon- 
don, and derives its name from a Pequod 
fort which formerly occupied its summit. 
The road crosses it near the southern 
limit of the fort, and a small church 
stands a quarter of a mile above, within 
the extensive space once enclosed by 



128 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



that palisaded work. It was the great 
foi*tress of the terrible Pequod nation, 
which makes a very conspicuous figui-e 
in the early history of the eastern col- 
onies. They had fought their way from 
the interior, and seated themselves in 
the present limits of Groton, where the 
few poor remains of their descendants 
still are found. On the arrival of the 
English, they had extended their con- 
quests a considerable distance up Con- 
necticut river, and the eastern and west- 
ern Nehantics were subject to them. 

In consequence of the murders they 
had committed, and the attack with which 
they had threatened the infant settle- 
ments at Hartford, Windsor, and Weth- 
ersfield, the inhabitants formed an ex- 
pedition in the spring of 1637, led by 
Captain Mason, and attacked their other 
fort on the Mystic, burning it, and kill- 
ing about six hundred persons ; after 
which the natives fled from their coun- 
try, and. having suffered another terrible 
slaughter in the swamp at Fairfield, were 
reduced to slavery, and ceased from that 
time to be an object of terror. 

This hill commands an extensive and 
delightful view, being almost entirely 
clear of obstructions, and superior in 
height to the neighboring hills. A con- 
siderable extent of Long island and the 
sound are overlooked from the summit, 
with various islands, bays, and points, 
on the Connecticut coast. At the time 
of the burning of Mystic fort, it was 
occupied by the chief sachem, Sassacus, 
who hastened to the relief of his sub- 
jects, but arrived too late to render them 
any assistance. On his return here, 
he burned, the wigwams and palisades, 
and immediately fled for refuge to the 
Mohawks, by whom he was beheaded. 

Stonington. — This is a small but 
busy town on the coast, long engaged in 
whalins: and sealing. Steamboats run 
daily hence to New York. 

The Providence and Stonington Rail- 
road, forty-seven miles, leaves the shore 
of Long Island sound, at the steamboat 
wharf in Stonington ; passes through the 
town ; crosses Pawcatuck river into 
Rhode Island ; up Charles River valley to 
Sherman's pond, South Kingston; north 
to East Greenwich ; and across a bridge 



to Providence, connecting with the Boston 
and Providence railroad. It was finished 
in 1837, and cost two millions of dollars. 
Summit, three hundred and two feet ; 
maximum grade, thirty-three feet ; four- 
teen miles nearly level ; minimum rad- 
ius, one thousand six hundred and thir- 
ty-seven feet, in one spot four hundred 
and eighty. 

On descending the hill which leads 
into Stonington, Porter's rock, thirty or 
forty feet high, is seen a little off* the 
road on the right hand. LTnder the shel- 
ter of it, it is said. Captain Mason en- 
camped with his little army on the night 
of May 26, 1637 (old style], a few hours 
before his successful attack on the sec- 
ond Pequod fort, which was on the top 
of a hill about two miles south of this 
place. 

The Mohegan Tribe of Indians. — 
The Pequods lived near New Lon- 
don, and the Mohegans in and around 
Norwich. 

Uncas, the sachem of Mohegan, was 
believed to be of Pequod descent, but 
in a state of successful revolt at the 
time the English became acquainted 
with him. His chief residence was near 
Trading cove, now the centre of the 
Indian reservation ; but the burying- 
ground of the royal family was near Nor- 
wich landing. He had conquered the 
country as far north as about the present 
Massachusetts line, but became an early 
friend of the whites, and rendered them 
important services, particularly in war, 
as well as his successors, the later Mo- 
hegan chiefs. 

Before this part of the state was set- 
tled, Uncas was once so closely besieged 
by his enemies the Pequods, that he 
suffered extremely from a scarcity of 
pi'ovisions, and was relieved only by the 
care of a man named Leffingvvell, who 
was despatched from Connecticut with 
a boat loaded with provisions. In grat- 
itude, Uncas gave him a large part of 
the present town of Norwich for this 
important service. There is a rock still 
pointed out on the shore, called Uncas's 
chair, where the sachem is said to have 
sat watching the arrival of his friends. 

The poor remains of this tribe reside 
on the lands secured to them by the state 



'^ I 




L= 



130 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



government, and live in all the ignor- 
ance, idleness, and thriftlessness, com- 
mon to the Indians in this part of the 
country — melancholy testimonies of the 
degradation to which the most active 
human minds may sink v^^hen every cus- 
tomary impulse to exertion has been 
stifled, and no new incitement extended. 

Norwich is in New London county, 
at the head of navigation on the Thames. 
It is eighty miles southwest of Boston, 
and has two villages, of which Chelsea 
landing is the principal. The city is 
remarkable for its singular situation, 
which is peculiarly beautiful and roman- 
tic — most of the buildings being on the 
declivity of a hill, and the streets rising 
one above another, ornamented with 
handsome churches, a townhall, an acad- 
emy, and many elegant dwellinghouses. 
It is equally remarkable for its appear- 
ance of business, which is much favored 
by the numerous manufactories in the 
neighboring country. In the rear of the 
hill, about a mile north, is a beautiful 
plain, on which are laid out several hand- 
some streets, shaded with ancient trees, 
which render it a very pleasant place. 

On the way thither is seen the cove, 
at the upper end of which are the falls 
of Yantic, a stream which pours over a 
ledge of granite about forty feet high, 
and supplies several manufactories with 
water. The place is highly picturesque. 
A rock, seventy or eighty feet in height, 
ovei'hangs the stream, whence a number 
of Narraganset Indians, pursued by the 
Mohegans, precipitated themselves. 

The Burying-Ground of the Uncases. — 
This is on the elevated bank north of 
the cove. There are stones marking 
the graves of numerous members of the 
royal family of the Mohegans, and a few 
of them bear English inscriptions. The 
family is now extinct. 

Uncas, the old friend of the pilgrims, 
is buried here. He and his nation were 
the only steady allies they ever found 
among the Indians, firm and powerful 
enough to render them very essential 
service. He was a man of extraordinary 
talent, and withal extremely politic ; but 
he refused to join tlie Indians against 
the English, and died a friend of the 
white men. 



The Bridge. — The accompanying en- 
graving represents the high bridge across 
the Thames, just below the falls. The 
rocks are high and precipitous, and the 
violence and roaring of the stream, es- 
pecially at high floods, strike the trav- 
eller with awe and fear. The stream 
here makes a rapid descent down a 
rough and rocky channel, over which 
the passenger seems hanging in the air, 
and about to be borne away by the im- 
petuous and irresistible current. A short 
distance below, the bed of the river be- 
comes level, and soon the water spreads 
over a wide surface, forming a broad 
and beautiful cove, which looks like a 
small, resplendent lake, with varied and 
pleasing scenery displayed along its 
margin. 

The Worcester and Norwich Railroad, 
fifty-eight and a half miles long, passes 
up the valley of the Quinnebaug, near 
Jewett's city, and many manufactories, 
through Westfield, Pomfret, Oxford, &c., 
to Worcester, where it meets the rail- 
roads to Boston and to New York. It 
was opened in 1840; cost one million; 
the maxium grade, twenty feet. 

Sachem's Field, one mile and a half 
from Norwich, is a small elevated plain, 
on which a battle was fought, in 1643, 
between about nine hundred Narragan- 
sets, inhabiting Rhode Island, and five 
or six hundred Mohegans. The sachem 
of the former, Miantonimo, intending to 
chastise Uncas for his adherence to the 
English, secretly advanced into his coun- 
try with an army. Uncas, aware of his 
approach, met him on this plain, wl)ere 
both parties halted ; he then resorted to 
this stratagem : stepping forward, he 
challenged Miantonimo to decide the 
quarrel single-handed. This, as he ex- 
pected was refused ; and while his ene- 
mies were unprepared, he gave a signal 
by falling down, when his men set up a 
yell, discharged their arrows, and rushed 
forward. The Narragansets fled, and 
many were killed. Uncas himself cap- 
tured Miantonimo, who was too haughty 
to ask for quarter or speak a word ; he 
was taken to Hartford, tried, and given 
to Uncas for execution ; he was brought 
back, and, while marching across the 
field, tomahawked near the road. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT. 



131 




First Governor of Connecticut 



John WiNTHROp, FIRST Governor of 
Connecticut. — This distinguished gen- 
tleman, for many years the governor of 
Connecticut, was the eldest son of John 
Winthi'op, the first governor of Massa- 
chusetts, and founder of the city of Bos- 
ton — that famous pattern of piety and 
justice, as he is called in the early 
chronicles of New England — who emi- 
grated to America in 1630, and brought 
with him the confidence and respect of 
the government he had left, and the 
most exalted and upright faculty for the 
duties he came to assume. Graham, 
adopting the thought of a classic histo- 
rian, says of him that he not only per- 
formed actions worthy to be written, 
but produced writings woi'thy to be 
read. His son John — the subject of 



this brief memoir — was scarcely less 
distinguished. He was the heir of all 
his father's talent, prudence, and virtues, 
with a superior share of human learn- 
ing — much addicted to philosophical 
study, and especially to physical science. 
He was one of the early patrons of 
the London Royal Society. Sir Hans 
Sloane, and three other members of that 
society, some fifty years afterward, in 
commending the grandson of this gen- 
tleman to the notice of their associates, 
bear honorable testimony to the good 
repute in which the ancestor was held. 
They speak of the learned John Win- 
throp as "one of the first members of 
this society, and who in conjunction 
with others did greatly contribute to the 
obtaining of our charter; to whom the 



132 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT 



Royal Society in its early days was not 
only indebted for various ingenious com- 
munications, but their museum still con- 
tains many testimonies of his generosity, 
especially of things relating to the nat- 
ural history of New England." 

John Winthrop was elected govern- 
or of Connecticut for several years, in 
which station his many valuable quali- 
ties as a gentleman, a philosopher, and 
a public ruler, procured him the univer 
sal respect of the people under his gov- 
ernment; and his unwearied attention 
to the public business and great under- 
standing in the art of government, were 
of unspeakable advantage to them. 

He was twice married, his second 
wife being the daughter of the cele- 
brated Hugh Peters. By this marriage 
he had several children, two of whom 
were sons. The elder, Fitz-John, fol- 
lowed in the footsteps of his father — 
was elected governor of Connecticut, 
and held that post for nine years, com- 
mencing in 1698, and continuing till the 
day of his death. Thus father, son, and 
grandson, died in the highest office to 
which the affections of the people could 
exalt them. The youHger son was a 
member of the Massachusetts council, 
under the new charter granted by Wil- 
liam and Mary, and afterward chief jus- 
tice of the superior court of that state. 
His name was Wait Still, a compound 
of two family names — the middle name 
being derived from the intermarriage of 
Adam, his great-grandfather, with the 
family of Still. 

Wait Still Winthrop, the chief-justice, 
appears to have left but two children, 
of whom John, the only son resembled 
his grandfather in an ardent devotion to 
science, and like him became a dis- 
tinguished member of the Royal So- 
ciety ; his introduction to that body be- 
ing greatly facilitated by the respect in 
which the memory of his ancestor was 
yet held. Attracted by the love of his 
favorite studies, and his attachment to 
the society of learned men, he removed 
to England, and died in 1747. He had 
seven children, of whom two were sons, 
John Still and Basil. On the 4th of 
Sept., 1750, the former married Jane 
Borland, of Boston, whose daughter Ann 



maiTied the late David Sears, Esq.,* 
of that place. 

The name of Winthrop shall be re- 
membered so long as nations exist. It 
will rank with Newton, Boyle, and Locke, 
and those philanthropists of every age, 
who are an ornament to human natuie, 
and whose lives have been devoted to the 
cultivation of the moral graces, and the 
advancement of social and religious hap- 
piness; enlarging the circle of the human 
mind, and adorning the principles of phi- 
losophy with the precepts of piety. Their 
fame is identified with the progress of 
knowledge and the diffusion of virtue. 
The history of such men sheds a bright 
and undying lustre upon their country, and 
will call forth the grateful recollections of 
unborn generations, so long as truth shall 
triumph over error, and the influence of 
Christianity be felt in removing vice and 
superstition fi"om the hearts of men. 

* Of this gentleman a note will hardly allow ns 
the proper space to speak of his character and vir- 
tues. He was born on the 12th of August, 1752. 
He removed from Chatham to Boston in 1770, and 
visited England in 1774. He became acquainted 
with Dr. Franklin in London, and took letters to his 
friends in France and Holland. He remained on the 
continent nearly two years, and with difficulty made 
his way back to Boston. In various modes his ser- 
vices were useful to his country. During the presi- 
dency of the elder Adams he was one of a commit- 
tee of the citizens of Boston for building a frigate 
(the Boston), towards which he subscribed three 
thousand dollars, and presenting it to government. 
He was largely interested in the India and China 
trade, and added much to his fortune. He was dis- 
tinguished as an intelligent and able financier — a di- 
rector in the first " bank of the United States," from 
its commencement to its termination — often a ref- 
eree in intricate cases of mercantile equity ; and 
his whole career was marked by the most incorrupt- 
tihle integrity, which never for the sake of a paltry 
advantage violated that punctilious delicacj' which 
is indispensable to the character of a gentleman. 

" An easy mien, engaging in address. 
Looks which at once each winning grace express, 
A life where love and tjnth were ever joined, 
A nature ever good and ever kind, 
A uisdom solid and a judgment clear. 
The smile indulgent, and a soul sincere." 
Mr. Sears was the proprietor of a large estate in 
Waldo county, in Maine, the settlers and tenantry of 
which honored and revered him, and as they became 
proprietors of the soil testified their gratitude for j 
his patriarchal treatment by naming their towns in 
his honor. He was generous and charitable — the 
founder of the widows' fund in Trinity church — and 
a contributor to numerous charities. He died in 
front of his house in Beacon-street, struck instantly 
dead by a stroke of apoplexy, as he was getting into 
his carriage to make an afternoon visit, on the 19th 
of October, 1816. "By this affecting event, this town 
[Boston] has lost an eminent merchant and excellent 
citizen; an only child, an affectionate parent; this 
church [Trinity], a distinguished benefactor ; society 
at large, a well bred and hospitable gentleman." 




This state, the smallest in the 
Union, is bounded on the north 
and east by Massachusetts, south 
by the Atlantic ocean, and west by 
Connecticut. It is about forty- 
nine miles long and twenty-nine 
wide, and contains one thousand 
three hundred and sixty square 
miles, of which one hundred and 
thirty are embraced in Narragan- 
set bay. The population in 1850 
was 147,654. 

The northern portion of the 
state is hilly, and that near the 
coast is low and level, but healthy, being tempered by the Seabreeze. There are 
several islands in and near Narraganset bay, the principal of which, Rhode 
Island (called after the isle of Rhodes in the Mediterranean), has given name to 
the state. 

There are several rivers of great value for manufacturing, which is carried on 
in various branches, but chiefly in cotton, to the great benefit of the state. The 
principal rivers are as follows : Pawtucket, Providence, Wood, Pawtuxet, and 
Pawcatuck ; and several manufacturing villages, of considerable size, are built on 
their banks. 

The commerce of the state has long been considerable ; but of late years it 
has been transferred from Newport to Providence, where it now centres. Un- 
happily the slave-trade was formerly carried on extensively from Rhode Island ; 
but that inhuman traffic has ceased. 

Rhode Island presents several strong contrasts, when viewed in different 
aspects. Although the smallest state in the Union, and containing but a small 
number of inhabitants, yet it has a very large proportion of persons engaged in 



134 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



manufactures, and was the first in which 
the manfacture of cotton was effected 
by machinery. Although the fii'st of the 
colonies in which general religious tol- 
eration, or rather equality, was estab- 
lished, conti'ary to the general impres- 
sion, that system was allowed to exist but 
two years ; for Roman catholics were 
then denied the liberty allowed to others. 

The history of this state is interest- 
ing for important events which occurred 
within its territory at different epochs. 
It was the scene of some of the first and 
the latest events of the eventful war of 
King Philip, or Metacom, who was a 
native of its soil, and fell at the foot of 
Mount Hope. The Narragansets, one 
of the most powerful Indian tribes in 
New England, were reduced by a war 
carried on in this territory. 

This tribe is now reduced to three or 
four hundred, composing about fifty fam- 
ilies, who reside on the Indian lands. 
Individuals of the tribe were lately in 
possession of three or four thousand 
acres of land, about one third of which 
was cultivated. The tribe own twenty 
or thirty acres of woodland, seventy acres 
of swamp, and nineteen acres on Short 
Neck ; they have a church, with a reg- 
ular baptist clergyman (an Indian) ; and 
a schoolhouse, in which school is kept 
in winter by the Indians, and in sum- 
mer by the missionary society : it con- 
sists of forty or fifty scholars. 

In the revolution, Newport was taken 
and occupied by the British forces until 
relieved by a French fleet, cooperating 
with the American army. 

The following extract is from a letter 
written by a distinguished historian : — 

" Rhode Island was foremost in the 
following events : — 

" May 17, 1744. The delegates from 
the town of Providence were instructed 
to prevail on the assembly to use their 
influence with the other colonies to pro- 
mote the convening of a continental con- 
gress — a few days earlier than the action 
of any other public body on the subject. 

" June 15, 1774. The assembly chose 
delegat.es to the congress two days be- 
fore Massachusetts, which I believe has 
hitherto been considered the first to elect 
delegates. 



" August, 1775. The assembly recom- 
mended to the congress to build and 
equip a continental navy; the first rec- 
ommendation of this sort by any public 
body. 

" May, 1776. Act of abjuration on in- 
dependence was passed ; the only step 
of this description, as far as I know, 
taken by any assembly, or colonial con- 
vention, before the declaration of con- 
gress. The resolves of Mecklenburg 
county, in North Carolina, were of the 
same tenor, but the meeting consisted 
of delegates from one county only, and 
these seem not to have been chosen upon 
the usual principles of representation. 

" There are passages in the colonial 
history of Rhode Island most honorable 
to the patriotic spirit of the people. The 
assembly petitioned against the famous 
'sugar act' of 1773. 

" The petition was rejected by par- 
liament. A curious debate on the sub- 
ject may be seen in Hassard's Parlia- 
mentai-y History, vol. viii., p. 1261." 

Newport. — This place possesses one 
of the best harbors in the United Stntes. 
The entrance is protected by Fort Adams, 
on Brenton's point. It embraces an ex- 
tent of about 130 acres. A range of 
guns lines the shore toward the west, 
and the casemates, &c., are very sti'ong. 

Newport extends about a mile along 
the shore, and its natural beauties pass 
quite beyond any seaside resort in this 
country. It has become very popular 
as a place of summer residence. In the 
hottest weather, and at all hours of the 
day, a cool sea-breeze can be enjoyed 
here. The range of the thermometer, 
in fact, at all seasons of the year, is less 
than at almost any other place in the 
United States. The romantic variety 
and picturesque elegance of its coast 
scenery, where the salt spray, foaming 
against the rocks, momently dashes it- 
self into rainbows, present the most en- 
chanting splendors of impression that 
land, and sea, and sunshine, in their 
combinations, can produce. A walk 
along the cliffs is like a ramble through 
a select gallery of Birch's marine views. 
To sit on high upon some " coin of van- 
tage" in the rock, and gaze upon the 
white waters wrestling in undying wrath 



136 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



with the eternal bases of the earth, while 
the spirit of beauty, prevailing over both, 
transmutes the terror into glory, and 
spreads out before the imagination an 
exhaustless banquet of visionary delight, 
is a pleasure that invests that region in 
a spiritual lustre, and consecrates it to 
the enthusiasms of the poet as much as 
to the enjoyments of the gay. The drives 
in the neighborhood of the town, are 
varied and beautiful. 

The beach behind the town, like the 
whole circuit of the city on the land 
side, was defended by a line of ti'oops, 
batteries, &c., dui'ing the possession of 
it by the English in the revolutionary 
war ; and the opposite high grounds 
were occupied by the American army, 
whose headquarters were on Taumony 
hill, about a mile and a half from the 
town — an elevation which affords an ex- 
tensive view on every side. General 
Prescott was taken here during the war 
by a bold party of men under Colonel 
Barton, who landed secretly from a boat 
in the night, went to the British head- 
quarters, and conveyed their captive 
away, before the land or naval forces, 
then in the harbor, could prevent them. 
The place was blockaded by the British 
fleet. 

iJuring the possession of the place by 
the enemy, the trees were cut down for 
fuel ; and although the soil is admirably 
calculated for the growth of fruit-trees, 
and was before that period quite covered 
with the finest orchards, it is now so 
divested of trees <if every description, 
as to appear remarkably naked and mo- 
notonous for an American scene. The 
fertility of the ground, and the excel- 
lence of the crops, as well as the neat- 
ness and precision with which the fields 
are cultivated and regularly divided by 
fine stone walls, present, however, a pic- 
ture of agricultural beauty rarely paral- 
leled in the United States. The island, 
fourteen miles long and not three miles 
wide, contained in 1827 more than thirty 
thousand sheep. 

Mount Hope, famous as the ancient 
royal residence of the Narraganset In- 
dians, and particularly as the abode of 
King Philip, and the scene of his death, 
is seen from a few miles beyond New- 



port, toward the northwest. It rises in 
Warren, on the shore of an arm of the 
bay. Prudence island is about five miles 
in length, and presents the same fertile 
soil and gently-swelling surface as that 
of Rhode Island. The inhabitants are 
few, as are those of Patience and Hope, 
islands of a much smaller size. Des- 
pair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near 
the island of Hope, the north end of 
which is twenty miles from Providence. 

Coal Mine. — An extensive mine of 
anthracite or incombustible coal was 
opened a few years since near the end 
of the island, in Portsmouth, about two 
miles from Bristol ferry ; it was not ex- 
tensively used, and the work was soon 
abandoned. 

Providence is the second city in New 
England. Population in 1851, about 
45,000, It is beautifully as well as ad- 
vantageously situated at the head of navi- 
gation, on the river Providence. 

The town was settled in the year 1636 
by Roger Williams, who left the old 
colonies in consequence of a disagree- 
ment in religious doctrines. He built 
his house on the shore, near the present 
episcopal church. Many of the society 
of quakers, or friends, afterward joined 
him, whose descendants form a lai"ge 
share of the population of the state. 

Brown University, the principal in- 
stitution of learning in the state, is built 
on the summit of a high hill, decorated 
with some of the finest houses in this 
part of the country, dispersed among 
spacious gardens, and mingling the de- 
lights of the country with the splendor 
of a city. It was founded in 1764 ; has 
about one hundred and fifty students ; 
and its library contains twenty-five thou- 
sand volumes. 

The academy, near the college, is a 
large institution, and was established by 
the friends, or quakers. 

A man in boring for water, a few years 
ago, at the end of a wharf, many yards 
distant from the original land, bored 
through a stream of mud; then through 
a bog meadow, containing good peat; 
then through a sand and quartz gravel. 
At this point, water impregnated with 
copperas and arsenic broke forth ; but, 
determining to proceed further, he next 



138 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



Struck a vineyard and drew up vines, 
grapes, grape-seeds, leaves, acorns, ha- 
zelnuts, pinenuts, and the seeds of un- 
known fruits, together with pure water. 
This was thirty-five feet below the bed 
of the river. 

The Boston and Providence Railroad, 
forty-one miles in length, begins at India 
wharf, in Pi'ovidence, near the steamboat 
landing, and, passing through the town, 
leads through Foxboro', Walpole, Ded- 
ham, Roxbury, and other towns. It 
was opened in 1835, and cost nearly two 
millions of dollars ; the curvatures are 
gentle ; least radius, five thousand seven 
hundred and thirty feet ; highest grade, 
thirty-seven and a half feet ; summit in 
Sharon, two hundred and fifty-six feet 
above tide. There is a viaduct of gran- 
ite in Canton, seven hundred feet long, 
and above sixty feet high, over Nepon- 
set valley. There are many embank- 
m^ints and excavations in rock. 

Blackstone Canal. — This canal, which 
reaches from Providence to Worcester, 
Massachusetts, runs along the course of 
the Blackstone river for several miles. 
It is forty-five miles long, eighteen feet 
wide at the bottom, and thirty-four feet 
at the surface. There are forty-eight 
locks, all built of stone, which overcome 
a rise and fall of four hundred and fifty 
feet. The size of the locks is eighty- 
two feet in length, and ten in breadth ; 
and the cost of the whole work was about 
half a million of dollars. The water 
is chiefly derived from Blackstone river, 
but there are large ponds at diffei'ent 
parts of the route which can be drawn 
upon at any time. The whole work was 
completed about 1828. 

Pawtucket is one of the largest man- 
ufacturing places in this part of the coun- 
try. The banks of the river are varied 
and somewhat romantic ; while the fall, 
which is under the bridge, furnishes a 
most valuable water-power. Cotton is 
principally manufactured here, though 
there is machinery devoted to other pur- 
poses. The village is divided by the 
Blackstone or Pawtucket river. The 
residents of the left bank call it "Paw- 
tucket, Massachusetts" — those of the 
right bank, "Pawtucket, Rhode Island." 
The population is over seven thousand. 



There is quite a number of handsome 
edifices for public worship, banks, tav- 
erns, &c. There are three distinct falls, 
on which manufactories have been erect- 
ed. The upper or Valley falls are about 
a mile from the main part of the village. 
Here there are five large mills. About 
half a mile lower down are the Central 
falls. Here are four large factories. 

Early History of Cotton Manufactures 
in America. — As Rhode Island was the 
state into which the manufacture of cot- 
ton by machinery was first introduced, 
the following brief sketch of its history 
may be appropriately introduced here. 

Looking back to the incipient state 
of our manufactures, we can not but be 
impressed with a'bsolute astonishment 
at the rapid strides they have made 
toward perfection. In 1727, the only 
spinning-machine in the whole extent 
of our country was one spinning-jenny, 
with twenty-eight spindles, worked by 
hand. At the present time, millions of 
capital are employed in spinning and 
weaving, every sloping stream is con- 
verted into a mill seat ; and by the in- 
dustry of our own hands, with the aid 
of labor-saving machinery, we manufac- 
ture not only what is necessary for our 
own consumption, but also for exporta- 
tion. We copy from a Providence pa- 
per the following facts in the early his- 
tory of cotton-spinning in the state, by 
Mr.William Anthony, of Coventry; they 
can not be uninteresting to our readers : 

" In 1786, Daniel Anthony, Andrew 
Dexter, and Lewis Peck, of Providence, 
formed a copartnership for the manufac- 
turing of what was then emphatically 
called AoTOf5pM« cloth. They commenced 
spinning by hand, and manufactured 
jane from linen-warp with cotton-filling. 
About that time machinery was imported 
from England by Major Orr, of Bridge- 
water, Massachusetts ; and this company 
sent Mr. Anthony to Bridgewater for the 
purpose of obtaining a draft of the ma- 
chinery, if practicable. The machinery 
was not in operation, nor was that the 
intention of Major Orr ; he kept it mere- 
ly for the purpose of being inspected by 
the curious, and others willing to hazard 
the experiment of establishing a manu- 
factory. From a draft of the machinery 



a jenny was constructed. The spindles 
(twenty-eight in number) and brasswork 
were made by Daniel Jackson, of this 
town, an ingenious coppersmith. This 
jenny, probably the first ever put in 
motion in the United States, was placed 
in the chambers of the markethouse in 
Providence, and there worked by hand. 

"Joshua Lindley, about that period, 
built a caz"ding-machine from Major 
Orr's pattern. It was something sim- 
ilar to those used at the present day 
for carding of wool, the cotton being 
taken off the machine in rolls and roped 
by hand. The company caused to be 
built from Major Orr's pattern a spin- 
ning-frame, somewhat similar to our 
water-frames, but very imperfect. It 
consisted of eight heads of four spindles 
each, and was carried by a crank turned 
by hand. The first head was made by 
John Baily, a very ingenious clockmaker 
of Pembroke, Massachusetts ; and the 
other seven, with the brasswoi'k and 
spindles, by our townsman, Daniel Jack- 
son. The lad who then turned the wheel 
has ever since devoted his attention to 
the manufacturing of cotton, and it af- 
fords us pleasure at this time to number 
him among the wealthy and most respec- 
table portion of our community. 

" In 1788, Joseph Alexander and Jas. 
M'Kerris, from Scotland, came to Provi- 
dence, and understanding the use of the 
flyshuttle, they undertook to weave cor- 
de.roy ; a loom was built, agreeably to the 
direction of Mr. Alexander, and placed 
in the chambers of the markethouse ; it 
used the flyshuttle, which was probably 
the first ever introduced into this coun- 
try. The corderoy was wove with linen 
warp and cotton filling ; but the manu- 
facture of that description of cloth was 
abandoned, in consequence of no person 
being found who could cut the corderoy, 
and raise the pile which formed the ribs 
and gave it the finish. 

" The spinning-frame, after being used 
some time at Providence, was sent to 
Pawtucket, and there attached to a wheel 
and propelled by water-power. This 
machine was very imperfect ; all the card- 
ing and roping was done by hand. It 
was used a short time and then sold to 
Moses Brown, esquire. 



" Manufacturing was in this infant and 
imperfect state when Samuel Slater, es- 
quire, arrived from England. He was 
a manufacturer, and could both build 
and use machinery. The old machinery 
was all thrown aside, and that built 
under the direction of Mr. Slater sub- 
stituted in its place. 

" But few had then sufl^cient faith in 
the experiment to hazard their capital 
in so doubtful an enterprise as the man- 
ufacture of cotton. The manufacturers 
at that season had everything to con- 
tend against. By the policy of England, 
the exportation of machinery was pro- 
hibited. Our artisans, like our manufac- 
turers, were in their infancy ; our iron, 
steel, and brass worker's were few, and 
they of course entirely unacquainted with 
any kind of millwork, for we find that 
the head to the first spinning-frame was 
made by a clockmaker . There also ex- 
isted a prejudice against manufacturing, 
both at home and abroad. Every argu- 
ment which ingenuity could devise was 
urged against the measure. It was rep- 
resented as demoralizing to society, as 
repugnant to rejiublican principles, as 
ruinous to those engaged in it, and to 
the very liberties of the country. We 
were then a commercial people, and 
the commercial part of our community 
viewed with no little jealousy the estab- 
lishment of manufactures. England, and 
Englishmen in this country, opposed it, 
knowing that our real advantages were 
so great, that, if once established, we 
would become a powerful and success- 
ful rival. But arguments, and remon- 
strances, and opposition of every kind, 
proved unavailing. The enterprise of 
a few individuals overcame every ob- 
stacle, and within forty years from the 
establishment of a single hand spinning- 
fi-ame, with no great assistance from 
government, we find our manufactures 
in their present flourishing and enviable 
situation. We can not dismiss the sub- 
ject without expi'essing a feeling of 
exultation, that our town was the first in 
the country to establish and patronize 
this invaluable branch of national in- 
dustry, and our markethouse the reposi- 
tory of the first spinning-frame ever set 
in motion in the United States." 



140 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



Block Island. — This most southern 
part of the state is a lone and desolate 
little island, lying far distant from the 
mainland, with but an irregular and pre- 
carious connexion with any other part 
of the country. 

No class of citizens of the United 
States — says a writer — are less under- 
stood in Rhode Island, than the inhab- 
itants of Block island. Shut out from 
the world by the barrier of the ocean, 
all communication cut off except when 
the waters are tranquil enough to per- 
mit their boats to float upon their bosom, 
this island appears to be a little world 
by itself, apart from everything but the 
white-crested billow, and the dense blue 
sea-fog. The island lies high in the 
water, on an average ten feet higher than 
Montaug point, which is the nearest 
land. It is nearly destitute of a harbor, 
even for its fishing-smacks, as a north- 
west wind sweeps down Long Island 
sound on the one hand, and a south wind 
drives in from the Atlantic on the other, 
rendering insecure any position that 
might be taken around her fated land. 

Many is the fine ship that has laid her 
bones upon the rocks that stud the ex- 
treme points of this no-man's-land, and 
many more have buf just escaped a sim- 
ilar fate ; and scarce a mariner comes 
in view of it that does not call to mind 
some shipmate who made his last splice 
in that neighborhood, and died within 
view of his destined haven. Block island 
is a beacon of joy to thousands who 
come in from the " sheep-pasture," as 
the Yankees term the Atlantic, and who 
from a foreign land seek that of their 
nativity ; it is the point whence they take 
their departure, and the first land they 
make on their return, and for that rea- 
son is greeted by the returning seaman 
as the first glimpse of his much-loved 
home. But when they make it a " lee- 
shore," with a stiff breeze, it is more an 
object of terror than anything else, for 
ten to one are the chances of escape 
from destruction. 

But from the island we turn to that 
singular race who inhabit it. A Block- 
islander has been the same, without a 
shadow of change, since his island was 
first inhabited. One would know him 



by his look alone — his weather-beaten 
face, and an eye that, to all appearance, 
has been bleached while penetrating the 
fog that hangs above and around the 
island like a canopy. One would know 
him by his form : built for strength 
rather than for beauty, and that natural 
strength increased by constant hardships 
and exposure to water and to sun, the 
frame is spread to a degree that could 
not fail to be ever known after having 
been known at all. But, most of all, he 
would be known by his dress. Having 
seen the costume of one Block-islander, 
you have seen them all — it is a curious 
mixture of the New England farmer and 
the seaman. There is the homespun 
pepper-and-salt, or black broadcloth, and 
upon its surface a huge patch of Russia 
duck ; the tarpaulin hat which marks the 
seaman, and the cotton bandanna hand- 
kerchief that tells of him from the Green 
mountains ; but most of all have we 
looked at what covers his legs from one 
extremity to the other, and are denom- 
inated boots : these are known wherever 
they are seen — from one extremity of 
the continent to the other; they could 
have been modelled at no other place, 
and an attempt to imitate them would 
be as fruitless as unprofitable; water 
could not penetrate, and fire could hard- 
ly consume, this part of their wardrobe, 
and they will stand for ages, as monu- 
ments of the taste of the people who 
invented them. They are worn by all 
classes, from young to old. 

The females of Block island, too, can 
face the gale, and defy rains, or snows, 
or freezing winters. They are almost 
as hardy as their husbands, and not un- 
frequently venture so far upon the sea 
that the sail of their clipper-boats are 
seen only as specks on the horizon. 

Rhode Island, small as it is, has been 
as fruitful in eminent men as any other 
state in the Union, however large. As 
early as 1723, it was the residence of the 
celebrated divine and philosopher, Dean 
Berkley, afterward bishop of Cloyne. 
It is said that he wrote his Minute 
Philosopher while there. 

The first anatomical and surgical lec- 
tures ever delivered in America were 
given at Newport, about the year 1760, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF RHODE ISLAND. 



141 



by Dr. William Huntei". A year or two 
after, lectures on electricity, with the 
Franklinian experiments, were given by 
Solomon Southwick, the father of the 
gentleman of the same name in Albany. 
From about 1756, there was more gen-< 
eral literature in Newport, and through 
the island, than perhaps any other part 
of America, which was owing to a very 
well-selected public library given by 
Abraham Redwood, esquire, a very op- 
ulent and generous person belonging to 
the society of friends. He gave five 
hundred pounds sterling for the books 
in London. These were selected with 
great judgment by the colony agent, and 
some were added by private donations. 
President Styles was its librarian be- 
tween twenty and thirty years. After 
a British army took possession of the 
island, this valuable selection of books 
was despoiled of a great portion of the 
English classics, histories, voyages, and 
travels, and whatever came under the 
head of entertaining books. The li- 
brary is still respectable. 

Among military men, Rhode Island 
gave to the nation General Greene and 
Commodore Perry. The once very 
beautiful scenery which embellished the 
island, and its character for healthful- 
ness, drew to it every summer numbers 
of opulent invalids, with not a few men 
of property, who sought pleasure and 
agreeable residence. It was the perma- 
nent residence of many men of inde- 
pendent fortune, past the meridian of 
life, from different parts of Europe and 
the West India islands, and who chose 
that spot in which to spend their days. 
This accounts for the large number of 
tories, or gentlemen who wished for no 
alteration in government and the habit- 
ual order of things. 

Besides very handsome country-seats, 
that island contained three gardens that 
merited, in some measure, the name of 
botanical gardens, having greenhouses 
and hothouses, with curious foreiffn 
plants. Those belonging to Malborne, 
Redwood, and Bowler, were the most 
distinguished. The most elegant and 
costly dwellinghouse in the twelve col- 
onies was the country-seat of Colonel 
Malborne, which was accidentally de- 



stroyed by fire previous to the revolu- 
tionary war. The beautiful spot now 
belongs to another family. 

Before the revolution, Rhode Island 
with its capital (Newport) was the most 
agreeable spot on the Atlantic shores. 
It enjoyed a very considerable com- 
merce : the most lucrative, although not 
the most moral, was the trade to Africa. 
Newport was then, from the causes al- 
ready mentioned, a lively, genteel, and 
literary town, and Providence was com- 
paratively small. But after the British 
took possession of it, the town of Prov- 
idence rose rapidly on the ruins of the 
capital. Upward of nine hundred build- 
ings, of all descriptions, were destroyed 
by the British, principally for fuel ; and 
what was equally, if not more, to be la- 
mented, they also destroyed, through 
necessity, all the beautiful woods and 
ornamental trees on that fine island. 
During these calamities. Providence, 
Bristol, Warren, and several towns on 
the Narraganset shore, increased in size 
and consequence, leaving the island, like 
an old battered shield, held up against 
the enemy. If the general government 
can do anything to recover it to a con 
dition in any respect equal to its formei 
consequence, they ought, in gratitude, 
so to do ; for where is the spot in the 
United States that has suflered so much 
as Newport on Rhode Island ] 

While we are disposed to eulogize 
Rhode Island, there is one thing we 
have always regretted, and that is its 
penal code. In point of health and pro- 
priety, her prisons were far behind those 
of other states ; and the severity of their 
jmnishments far more rigorous than in 
most of the other colonies and states. 
Their whipping at the cart's-tail fell but 
little short of the Russian knot ; and 
their ear-croppings and brandings long 
continued after other states had me- 
liorated their punishments for theft and 
forgery. 

The following shows the population 
of the state at different periods : — 
In 1730, 17,935 In 1800, 69,122 



1748, 34,128 
1774, 59,678 
1783, 51,809 
1790, 68,825 



In 1850, 147,654. 



1810, 76,931 

1820, 83,059 

1830, 97,199 

1840, 108,830 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATK OF NKW YORK. 



]43 




NEW YORK. 

No state in the Union occupies, at the 
present time, a more prominent position 
than New York, or, in many points of 
view, a more interesting. One of the 
earliest in the history of the colonial 
settlements, occupying one of the largest 
territories among the original thirteen 
states, touching, with its extensive arms, 
the ocean, and two of the larger lakes, 
including for a century the most power- 
ful body of Indians within our borders, 
and some of the principal paths of for- 
eign invasion, her scenes of early enter- 
prises and military operations, often dis- 
tinguished by the bold and beautiful 
traits of nature, have been in turn the 
witnesses of extending civilization, and 
the triumphs of modern science and art enlisted in her service. Where the Indians, 
sent out or led on by the French Jesuits in Canada, laid the ambush, or fell upon 
the defenceless frontier settlement, or where the armies of France and England 
contended for the possession of American forests, in the course of years the same 
jilaces witnessed the strife between the colonies and the mother-country ; and, 
since it ceased, have been enlivened by the passage of steamboats or rail-cars, or 
afforded sites for flourishing towns and cities. 

To give more than an imperfect outline of the past and present condition of so 
large, populous, and important a state, in the few pages allotted to it in a work 
like this, will be impossible ; and, to avoid the necessity of falling into a mere 
record of dry statistics, we must confine our attention to some of the leading 
natural features, the most important epochs in history, works of art, and other 
points of interest. 

Hudson River. — This stream, as one of the most important channels of 
commerce in the Union, merit special attention. Its natural advantages have been 
immensely surpassed by those added by art : for, since the construction of the 



144 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



canals, especially the Grand or Erie 
canal, an extent of territory has been 
opened, sm^passing, a thousand times, 
that which borders the stream and its 
branches. The railroads already made 
increase the amount of navigation and 
valuable freights annually borne upon 
the bosom of this noble river; and those 
proposed and partly completed, promise 
still greater and incalculable results. 
Of those more recently completed, the 
New York and Erie railroad, described 
on andther page, is by far the most im- 
portant, forming, as it does, a second 
and more rapid communication between 
the Atlantic sea-board and the lakes. 

The Hudson rises in the wild, eleva- 
ted, and almost uninhabited region west 
of Lake Champlain, and flows, at first, 
nearly north, then east, and finally south, 
till it falls into New York bay, passing 
through which and the lower bay, its 
waters mingle with those of the ocean, 
at Sandy Hook. The latter and pi'inci- 
pal part of its course is remarkably 
straight, and almost due south. After 
receiving several small branches in the 
upper regions, it is swelled by the Mo- 
hawk at Waterford ; and soon after 
reaching Troy, the head of steamboat 
navigation, passes Albany, where the 
northei-n and Erie canals communicate 
with it, through a spacious basin. From 
that place to its mouth, the Hudson is 
navigated by a number of steamboats, 
sloops, canal-boats, and vessels of larger 
size, worthy of the principal commer- 
cial river of the United States, flowing 
into the Atlantic. Although it passes 
through a line of mountains at the High- 
lands, that are commonly regarded as the 
Allegany range, it pursues its way with 
a smooth and unbroken current, causing 
no interruption to navigation. 

It has two large expansions below 
that point, called Haverstraw and Tap- 
pan bays, after which it proceeds, with 
a breadth but little increased, till it 
reaches the city of New York. The 
tide is evident even at Albany ; but the 
water is perceptibly affected by the 
brine of the Atlantic only as high as 
Polopel's island, at the northern extrem- 
ity of the Highlands. The numerous 
and flourishing towns upon its banks. 



with the variety of taste displayed in 
the country-seats occupying the heights, 
declivities, and shores, intermingling 
with the beautiful and sometimes wild 
scenery with which nature has enrich- 
ed it, and which is widely and so justly 
celebrated — all these, combined with 
the evidences of industry and wealth, 
displayed by the fleets of vessels of dif- 
ferent kinds continually ploughing its 
waters, render the Hudson one of the 
most agreeable routes for a traveller. 

In summer, the number of travellers 
passing up and down this river is almost 
incredible : for it lies on the way between 
the commercial meti-opolis of the Union 
and several of the principal points to 
which travellers for business or pleas- 
ure direct their course : Ballston and 
Saratoga, Lakes George and Cham- 
plain, Canada, Niagara, and the West; 
while by numbers this attractive route 
is chosen in going to Boston, the White 
mountains of New Hampshire, and oth- 
er parts of New England. 

One of the remarkable objects on the 
Hudson is the trap range, on its western 
bank, extending from Weehawken bluff 
far up toward the Highlands, called the 
Palisades. It often presents a precipi- 
tous wall, totally inaccessible from the 
water, except occasionally ; and for 
some distance it rises about four hun- 
dred feet perpendicularly. 

Mountains. — The Allegany range en- 
ters this state from New Jersey, and 
crosses the Hudson at the pass of the 
Highlands, celebrated for its scenery, 
and for some important events in the 
Revolutionary war, and passes into New 
England. 

The Catskill mountains rise at some 
distance above the Highlands, about sev- 
en miles west of the river, and present 
a range of rocks, coveitsd with a thin 
coat of forest-trees, with several peaks 
rising a little above the general outline, 
the loftiest of which, the Crow's-Nest, 
is about three thousand five hundred feet 
above the ocean. The poverty of the 
soil and the roughness and almost inac- 
cessible nature of the surface, render 
this wild region the retreat of deer and 
wolves. The abundance of oak-trees is 
such, that numerous tanneries are found 




10 



146 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



in that region. The village of Hunter 
is situated halfway up the mountain, at 
an elevation considerably higher than 
any other within the limits of New 
York. The Mountain house, in the up- 
per parts of this Alpine region, is the 
resort of numerous travellers of taste in 
the warm seasons ; and, while it affords 
every comfort, and many of the luxuries 
of life, it commands one of the most ex- 
tensive and delightful views to be found 
within the circuit of the Union, with ea- 
sy access to the wild valley of the Cau- 
ttiskill creek, and its remarkable cas- 
cades. 

Oswego River is a very remarkable 
stream on account of one singular pecu- 
liarity. It is the drain of almost the 
whole cluster of small lakes in the mid- 
dle of the state of New York. Having 
its head in Canandaigua lake, in its eas- 
terly course, it receives the outlets of 
all those which empty northward, and 
at length, after passing several villages, 
receives the Oswego canal, and falls 
into Lake Ontario at the village of Os- 
wego. 

Genesee River. — The scenery along 
the course of this river is wild, where it 
passes through the high and rocky ridge 
which bounds the rich " Genesee Flats," 
on the south. The banks, for a consid- 
erable distance, are perpendicular, as if 
cut through by some irresistible toiTent, 
exposing to view the strata far below 
the original surface. The extensive 
valley which succeeds, so celebrated for 
its fertility, affoi'ds the stream a smooth 
and level channel, by which it gently 
meanders through a scene of peculiar 
richness, in summer waving with some 
of the best wheat in America. The 
stream, by wearing away the limestone 
rocks above, annually enriches the soil 
by its deposites ; and this natural manu- 
ring process is aided by the action of 
the wind, which, in blowing down the 
rocky chasm just mentioned, brings 
with it particles of dust from the crumb- 
ling surface, and spreads them far and 
wide over the meadows. So important 
are the effects of this process, that the 
land is perceptibly richer, on the upper 
part of the valley, as we approach its 
rugged boundary. 



Moving northward, the Genesee flows 
towai-d the great mart and manufactory 
of those stores of grain which its shores 
yield in such abundance ; and that large 
and flourishing town owes its existence, 
or at least its importance, to the abun- 
dant water-power afforded by the sud- 
den descent of its waters over the steep 
falls at that place. Both sides of the 
stream are there lined, for a great dis- 
tance, by mills of the largest size, con- 
structed in the most substantial manner, 
which are celebrated for the excellency, 
as well as the amount of the flour which 
they annually produce. 

It is remarkable in the history of this 
part of the state, that the superior fer- 
tility of the Genesee Flats long remain- 
ed unknown, as well as the peculiar fit- 
ness of the soil for wheat. Thousands 
of emigrants from New England, says 
Darby, settled on other tracts of land 
further west, where they were satisfied 
if they could raise thirty bushels of 
corn on an acre. But the value of this 
fertile region is now well appreciated; 
and sixty bushels of corn, or twenty-five 
of wheat, are annually yielded by thou- 
sands of acres. A finer sight can hard- 
ly be shown in any part of our country, 
than this region, when covered with its 
waving crops. 

The Genesee Flats were a favorite 
district with the Indians ; and the last 
blow received by the Iroquois, in the 
Revolutionary war, was given here, 
when a large village was burnt, and they 
were driven from their richest plant- 
ing grounds. The remains of ancient 
mounds and other traces of past genera- 
tions, prove that the banks of the stream 
were long the residence of a large pop- 
ulation. 

Springs. — New York abounds in 
mineral springs, and of very different 
qualities. Some of them possess highly 
sanative pi'operties, and are the most 
celebrated resorts in America, by in- 
valids and travellers for pleasure. Oth- 
ers are merely curiosities, on account 
of the peculiar substances held in solu- 
tion by their waters. 

Gas springs are among the latter; 
and these are found in several places in 
the western parts of the state, chiefly at 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



147 



Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua, 
where they, in some places, rise from 
small hillocks, and the hydrogen which 
forms a large constituent of the gaseous 
exhalations, readily burns on being 
touched with flame, and sometimes con- 
tinues to blaze for several hours, even 
when surrounded with snow. In the 
geological volumes of the reports of the 
scientific survey of the state, all the 
particulars maybe found, relating to this 
and to many other subjects, connected 
with the rocks and soil of the extensive 
and diversified territory. 

Ballstan Springs. — The old chalybe- 
ate spring, in the centre of the village 
of Ballston Spa, near the Kayderoseros 
brook, was known to the Indians, and 
highly valued by them. It was visited 
by Sir William Johnson, before the 
Revolutionary war, at the recommenda- 
tion of an Indian, for the improvement 
of his health ; and he was carried for a 
considerable distance on a litter, there 
being at that time no road. The vicini- 
ty of the spring was marked by the feet 
of numerous deer, and paths were trod- 
den by them to their favorite drinking- 
place, from every direction. For sever- 
al years after the war, there were no 
better accommodations at the place than 
a miserable loghouse ; but it gradually 
became a place of considerable resort ; 
and about the year 1814 orlS15, was a 
village, with several houses for lodgers, 
*one of which, the Sans Souci, had ac- 
commodations for about one hundred 
and fifty persons. Several other springs 
had been discovered, and more were 
afterward found, all situated in the small 
alluvial valley of the Kayderoseros. 
These differed in nature : some being: 
pure water, others chalybeates, sulphur- 
ous, and saline. This place, however, 
for many years, has been superseded by 

Saratoga Springs. — This is now by 
far the most important watering-place 
in the Union, for the number of visiters. 
There are five or six hotels of the lar- 
gest size, and numerous smaller ones, 
all standing on one street, and within a 
short distance of the principal spring ; 
and the place, during the wai'm season, 
especially in the months of July and 
August, is generally crowded to over- 



flowing, by thousands of persons, fi-om 
all parts of this countiy, and from many 
foreign lands. The railroad offers ev- 
ery facility for travelling, and several 
interesting places lie in the vicinity, 
while through the place lies the grand 
route to Canada, by Lake Champlain. 

The Congress spring, at the southern 
end of the village, affords a plentiful 
supply of saline water, in which Glau- 
ber's salt abounds, accompanied with 
portions of lime and magnesia, and a 
slight trace of iron, and abundance of 
carbonic acid gas, all which together 
render it one of the most useful of natu- 
ral mineral waters in the world. It is 
recommended for many cases of disease, 
and great quantities are bottled for the 
supply of cities and towns in all parts 
of the Union, while much of it is sent 
abroad. It was discovered soon after 
the Revolution, in the bed of a small 
brook, which flows through the narrow, 
marshy strip of ground, in which all 
the other springs at this place are situ- 
ated, including the Iodine spring, which 
is a great rarity. 

The Round Rode spring was known 
to the Indians, and is named from a hol- 
low conical mass of rock in which it ri- 
ses, and over the top of which it for- 
merly flowed. A tree, it is said, fell 
upon it some years ago, and caused the 
crack through which the water now es- 
capes, near the level of the ground. 
The water is a feeble chalybeate, of lit- 
tle value or interest, and holds in solu- 
tion a portion of lime, whose gradual 
deposition, on the escape of the carbon- 
ic acid, no doubt formed the singular 
cone, which naturally has made it an 
object of popular curiosity. 

Natural History. — A few years 
ago the legislature of this state author- 
ized a scientific survey of its territory, 
appointed some of the most eminent 
naturalists in different departments and 
appropriated considerable sums of mon- 
ey to pay the expenses. The state has 
now been traversed and exam.ined, re 
ports have been made, accepted, and 
printed, and we have ah'eady eleven vol- 
umes, elegant quartos, abounding in 
facts, and illustrated by hundreds of en- 
gravings, representing the rocky strata, 



148 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



luid other geological features, with the 
plants, insects, reptiles, fish, birds, and 
beasts, inhabiting the land and water. 
The descriptions partake of the popu- 
lar style, to a considerable extent, in or- 
der that the common reader may not be 
debari'ed from the perusal, by language 
too strictly technical. The last volumes 
are soon to appear. The following 
general views of the regions, climates, 
and animals of the state, we abridge 
from those reports. 

New York lies within the temperate 
zone, in an irregular triangle, with its 
apex on the Atlantic, and its sides on 
the western border of New England, 
the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, 
and the northern boundaries of Penn- 
sylvania and New Jersey. Long island 
forms a sandy spur, extending from the 
harbor of New York, eastward, about 
one hundred and fifty miles. Including 
Long island, the state extends through 
eight degrees of longitude, and from 
forty degrees and three minutes, to for- 
ty-five degrees, of north latitude, with 
more than forty-six thousand square 
miles. It covers a surface greater than 
Poland, Scotland, or Naples and Sicily; 
three times larger than Switzerland, 
and almost equal to England. It is 
nearly in the latitude of Italy, the south 
of France, and the north of Spain; and 
resembles them in the heats of summer ; 
but yet the winters are as severe as 
those of the northern countries of Eu- 
rope. The mean length of the winter 
in ten years was one hundred and sixty- 
five days, or about five months ; and the 
mountains, although none of them ex- 
ceed the height of five thousand feet, 
have a much colder climate than corres- 
ponding elevations in Europe. Within 
the boundaries, are animals, which are 
found, in the old world, only at great 
distances from each other; as the Cer- 
vidge and Mustelidae of the south of Eu- 
rope, and the Muridae and Vespertilion- 
idae of the north. 

There are four districts, distinguished 
by geographical peculiax'ities, and not 
less by zoological. 

1. The Western District, bounded on 
the east by the Mohawk valley, and is 
chiefly elevated on the Allegany table- 



land, furrowed by valleys lying north 
and south, once probably outlets of an 
inland ocean. The descent westward 
is sudden, to Lake Erie ; while ten or 
twelve small lakes in the middle are 
drained by the Genesee river, and visit- 
ed by salmon from Lake Ontario. The 
great lakes have much influence on the 
climate. Here are found the northern 
lynx, with the deer-mouse and porcu- 
pine. Streams flow from this district 
to the Mississippi, and to the Susque- 
hannah and Delaware. 

2. The Northern District has mount- 
ains, some five thousand feet in height, 
with Lake Champlain, one hundred and 
forty miles long ; and is inhabited by 
several fui'-bearing animals : the sable 
and beaver, and also by the mouse and 
the wolverine. It is the southern limit 
of migration of many of the arctic birds, 
as the Canada jay, spruce-grouse, swan, 
raven, and arctic woodpecker. 

3. The Hudson Valley District lies in 
the form of an inverted L ; and, though 
small, it is highly interesting, as it con- 
tains many of the animals of the adja- 
cent New England states, while on the 
west it has the Catskill mountains, some 
of which rise four thousand feet, and 
are still the habitation of wolves, deer, 
panthei's, and bears. The Erie canal 
has brought into the Hudson the soft- 
shelled turtle and the rock bass from the 
lakes ; as the yellow perch and the mus- 
kalonge have found their way from Lake* 
Ei'ie to the Mississippi through the Ohio 
canal. The southern part of this dis- 
trict teems with inhabitants of the ocean. 
It is remarkable that some species of 
animals find the Hudson their natural 
eastern boundary, as the opossum, chain- 
snakes, brown swift, buzzard, and sev- 
eral other birds, come to its western 
borders, but never cross it. At the 
same time, there are some species which 
abound in the counties on the eastern 
side, but are never seen on the western. 

4. TJie Atlantic District, or Long Is- 
land, runs about one hundred and fifty 
miles northeasterly, with a mean breadth 
of ten miles, having low sand hills in 
the northern part, only in one place 
three hundred feet high. The bear, 
wolf, and otter, have lieen exterminated : 



but the deer remain ; and, although much 
hunted, are believed to be on the in- 
crease, since they have begun to be 
protected by law during the breeding 
season. This remarkable tongue of 
land, stretching nearly at right angles 
from the coast south of it, is the first 
resting-place offered to many of the 
birds, on their migrations from the West 
Indies and other southern regions, after 
a lono: flight over the waters of the 
ocean. It happens also to lie in such a 
latitude, that it is at once the northern 
limit of the tropical birds, and the south- 
ern limit of the arctic. In winter the 
eider-duck is found on Long island, the 
little white goose, the cormorant, the 
awk, and many othei's from the Arctic 
ocean ; while in summer are to be seen 
the turkey-buzzard, the swallow-tailed 
kite, the fork-tailed fly-catcher from 
Guiana, &c., &c. Here is also the nat- 
ural limit of certain species of fish, 
some from the north, and others from 
the south. 

"American quadrupeds have attract- 
ed but little attention," remarks one of 
the writers of the scientific reports. Dr. 
Dekay, "until within a short period; 
and were then, at first only noticed by 
foreigners. The few Americans who 
afterward began to procure specimens, 
sent most of them abroad, where only 
they found them appreciated. De Li- 
ancourt, De Chastellux, and some other 
mere travellers, did much ; and such sci- 
entific explorers as Bosc, Kalm, Mi- 
cheaux, and Pal de Beauvois, have done 
much more. The Philadelphia Acade- 
my of Natural History, the Lyceum of 
New York, and other scientific societies 
in Boston, New Haven, and Salem, have 
accomplished much since their forma- 
tion." The American Journal of Sci- 
ence and the Arts, established and con- 
ducted by Prof. Silliman, has also pow- 
erfully contributed to the cultivation of 
zoological study and research, as well 
as of other branches. 

Many remains of mammoth and other 
extinct animals have been found in the 
state of New York ; and the only entire 
skeleton of the mastodon ever obtained 
was dug from the earth near Newburgh, 
in 1845. 



Lakes. — New York contains more 
lakes than any other state in the Union : 
and, if we cast our eyes upon the map, 
and observe their number and im])ort- 
ance, with those larger ones which to- 
gether form a large proportion of its 
boundaries, we might be disposed to 
give it a new but appropriate geogi'aph- 
ical appellation, and call it " the Lake 
state." 

Lake George. — The most picturesque 
of the American lakes, lies just within 
the southern limit of the northern mount- 
ain ranges, and combines the wildness 
and sublimity of Scotch scenery with the 
richness and beauty of native American 
forests, intermingled with occasional 
marks of progressive cultivation. Lake 
George, the beautiful sheet of water to 
which we allude, is twenty miles in 
length, and about one mile in width ; 
and is completely shut in by eminences 
of considerable elevation, which form a 
succession of bold scenery, as the trav- 
eller passes over the smooth surface in 
the steamboat which ploughs its crystal 
water. French mountain, at the south- 
ern extremity, looks down upon the ru- 
ins of Forts George and William Hen- 
ry, which were erected to repel the in- 
vasions of the people whose name the 
mountain bears, in the colonial wars ; 
and several other peaks rise conspicu- 
ously below, and, at the NaiTows, in the 
middle of the lake, almost close up the 
passage, which is still more impeded by 
numerous little islands of various forms, 
which seem, from a distance, like a 
fleet of light-boats, becalmed, on a par- 
ty of pleasure. 

The beautiful sheet of water was, in 
former times, disturbed by scenes of 
war; and the remains of military works 
near its southern extremity, with histor- 
ical associations connected with different 
points on its shores, redouble the inter- 
est of the intelligent traveller who re- 
sorts to its delightful borders, and glides 
over its glassy surface. The ruins of 
the two forts beforementioned, George 
and William Henry, and which were 
the scenes of important events, are seen 
on its southern shore. 

Lake Champlain. — Lake Champlain, 
interestins? from its historical associa- 



150 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



tions, is long and narrow, separates the 
states of Vermont and New York, and 
is distinguished for its beauty. Its wa- 
ters are generally quiet, never being 
wrought into anything more than gentle 
billows ; and its width, being such that 
both shores are distinctly visible through 
its whole length, gives it somewhat the 
appearance of a broad river. The cel- 
ebrated fortresses of Ticonderoga and 
Crown Point are on its southern por- 
tion. In its wider parts, picturesque 
little islands seem to rest on its bosom ; 
three of which, lying near together, 
of similar size and shape, are called the 
" Three Brothers." 

The " North and South Hero," are 
two larger islands, which occupy quite a 
considerable space in the length of the 
lake. They are inhabited by a numer- 
ous population, and have their schools 
and churches. About three miles from 
the Vermont shore, is a small island, in- 
habited by one family, who, like Sel- 
kirk, " have none to dispute their right" 
to their little secluded home. 

In a passage up the lake, through 
which. ply the splendid steamboats on 
the grand route to Canada, you look out 
upon two states at the same time. On 
the right is Vermont, with its verdant 
shore; and in the distance ai'e the 
" Green mountains." On the left is the 
north part of New York, looking quite 
as mountainous, and as much diversified 
with hills and dales, rich in mines of 
iron, but still almost covered with for- 
ests. On both shores, beautiful villages 
are frequently seen, stretching down to 
the water's edsre, and addino^ much life 
and interest to the landscape. None 
who pass up this lake, but feel a pecu- 
liar interest in that part of it, where the 
memorable " Battle of Plattsburgh" was 
fought. 

That part of the lake abounds in de- 
lightful views, especially where we ap- 
proach Plattsburgh, and pass over the 
waters memorable as the scene of the 
naval victory of Commodore M'Donough 
over the British fleet under Commodoi'e 
Dovvnie. War is to be deprecated in 
all its forms, and its existence exceed- 
ingly to be deplored, as a sad relic of 
barbarism ; still, as events of history 



and reality, all feel an equal intei'est in 
scenes that were acted here. 

History. — The history of this state 
naturally itself divides into periods, 
corresponding in general with those 
most remarkable in that of the older 
colonies and states ; and under each of 
these many interesting and instrucrtve 
events and incidents are recorded, some 
of which will be alluded to in their ap- 
propriate places, with that brevity which 
is made necessary by the nature of this 
work. Abundant sources of informa- 
tion are at hand, for any who wish to 
pursue any branch of New York histo- 
ry in detail ; for no state in the Union, 
perhaps, is better furnished in this re- 
spect, especially in works of recent 
publication. Although fewer men of 
letters were found among the early in- 
habitants in colonial times, numerous 
historians, as well as other writers, have 
devoted their pens to subjects around 
them; and within a few years the His- 
torical Society has made great and very 
successful exertions to collect and pre- 
serve records of all kinds, calculated to 
throw light upon any period of history. 
The legislature, at their invitation, sent 
an intelligent agent to Europe, a few 
years ago, Mr. Brodhead, who brought 
back an invaluable collection of docu- 
ments, in different languages, from th<7 
ai-chives of Holland, France, and Eng- 
land, respectively illustrating tne peri- 
ods of Dutch settlement and rule, of 
English extension and French invasion. 
Future historians will find tiere a rich 
addition to previous annals, and the 
means of correcting foimer errors and 
of illustrating numerous points which 
require elucidation. 

Indian antiquities have been studied 
with zeal, and are now prosecuted with 
new advantages. Under the authority 
of the legislature, that well-qualified in- 
vestigator, Henry R. Schoolcraft, was 
employed in 1846, to take a census of 
the Indians in the state ; and he collect- 
ed a mass of the most valuable facts ev- 
er obtained, relating to any family of 
the human race, illustrating the chan- 
ges occurring in the transition state, 
from the savage toward the civilized 
condition. In this survey, as might be 



152 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



expected, the influence of Christianity 
is strongly exhibited, as the grand civil- 
izing agent, and lessons of an impor- 
tant character are given, well calculated 
to guide philanthropists in their future 
undertakings in favor of the much-neg- 
lected, abused, and belied race of red- 
men. 

The reader must be referred for in- 
formation on the history of this state in 
all its different periods and epochs, to 
the following authors among many oth- 
ers : Golden, Smith, Clinton, Campbell, 
Yates, Moulton, &c. Barber's volume 
is well adapted to the common reader, 
abounding in local descriptions and an- 
ecdotes, illustrated with many engra- 
vings. We have here merely room to 
allude to the chief events in the early 
history of the colony. 

Henry Hudson, an Englishman in the 
service of the Dutch East India compa- 
ny, discovered the Hudson river in 1609, 
and ascended it about one hundred and 
sixty miles. It was in consequence of 
this discovery, that the Dutch laid claim 
to the territory on both sides of the riv- 
er, and called it New Netherlands. 
The position now known as Albany, 
was, in 1613, named by the few Dutch 
who discovered it and built a fort thei'e. 
Fort Orange ; and in the next year, sev- 
eral trading-houses were erected upon 
Manhattan island (now New York), to 
which they gave the name of New Am- 
sterdam. 

The English were not well pleased 
by what they considered the intrusions 
of the Dutch. They claimed that this 
part of the territory properly belonged 
to Virginia ; and, in the same year, 
Captain Argal came with a fleet of three 
ships, and demanded the sui'render of 
the fort. They submitted without re- 
sistance, because their numbers were 
very few. But a new governor arrived 
from Holland, and the Dutch would al- 
low the authority of the English no 
longer, and they retained possession 
until 1664. They built Fort Good 
Hope on the Connecticut, at Hartford, 
and another on the Delaware, and then 
claimed a right to all the extensive re- 
gions between these two rivers. 

But the Indians did not let the Dutch 



remain long in peace. In 1646, a bat- 
tle was fought at a place called Strick- 
land's plain ; and the savages were de- 
feated with great slaughter. The colo- 
nies of New Haven and Connecticut 
were at this time disputing with the 
Dutch ; but, in 1650, a treaty was made 
at Hartford, by which the Dutch gave 
up their claim to the territory belong- 
ing to those colonies, except the part 
which they then occupied. 

Five years after this the Swedes, who 
had settled on the west side of the Del- 
aware river, were attacked and subdued 
by the Dutch governor, Stuyvesant, with 
a fleet of seven ships. But ere long, 
the Dutch were met again by their old 
enemies the English. In 1664, in con- 
sequence of the grant which Charles II. 
had given to his brother, the duke of 
York and Albany, and which secured to 
him all the lands owned by the Dutch, 
a squadron appeared in the harbor of 
New York, which was commanded by 
Colonel Nichols. A surrender was im- 
mediately demanded by the English, 
who promised to secure the rights of 
life and property to the inhabitants. 
The governor wished to make resist- 
ance, but the inhabitants prevailed upon 
him to submit. The English thus took 
possession, and called it New York, in 
honor of the duke of York ; and not 
long after Fort Orange was also taken, 
and named Albany. 

Nichols now became governor ; and 
his administration was mild and success- 
ful. 

We have not room to notice the suc- 
cessive governors of the colony, nor the 
various events which distinguished the 
successive periods, through the contests 
between England and other powers, 
which had more or less influence on this 
side of the Atlantic. We can only re- 
fer, in their places, to some leading 
events in the French and the Revolu- 
tionary wars, and in that with England 
of 1812. 

Albany. — This city presents several 
superior claims to our attention. In 
point of history it is the oldest settle- 
ment by Europeans on the Hudson for, 
unusual as it is in founding colonies, the 
mouth of the stream was not occupied 




IL 



154 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



by the Dutch until they had first estab- 
lished themselves at this place, one hun- 
dred and fifty miles and more from the 
sea. This was the scene of many im- 
portant councils and treaties with the 
Indians, especially the Five Nations ; 
and in the grounds of the old capitol 
were interred numerous savage memo- 
rials of peace and amity. During the 
French wars, Albany was often the 
grand point of rendezvous for the troops 
required of New England and New 
York, in military expeditions against 
Canada. Burgoyne's expedition, in 
1777, had the capture of this city as its 
first object, after gaining possession of 
Ticonderoga, and it was saved only by 
the battles of Saratoga. Albany has 
been the capital of this state ever since 
its formation ; and here is the point at 
which concentrate the principal* canals 
and railroads of New York — the uniting 
link in the chains connecting the com- 
merce of the lakes with that of the 
great nori^nern ports, Boston and New 
York. 

Albany is well situated to make a 
striking appearance to a person ap- 
proaching by the river, or viewing it 
from the opposite, elevated shores of 
Greenbush. A crowded mass of houses 
seems to cover the entire declivity, which 
rises suddenly from the level of the 
shore to the summit, which is crowned 
by the statehouse with its dome. The 
broadest and perhaps the principal street 
(State street), well built, with many 
large edifices, hotels', stores, and private 
residences, leads from the base of the 
hill to the gates of the statehouse, start- 
ing from the chief avenue of business, 
Market street, which extends, with sev- 
eral parallel streets, far up and down 
the city, north and south. 

The canal-basin occupies the front of 
the town for about one half its length, 
being shut in from the river by the piei", 
which commences at the north, and ter- 
minates opposite the foot of State 
street. Here are seen mingling the 
boats of Lake Champlain, Erie, and the 
Ohio canal, with the steamboats sent 
from New York to tow them to the 
mouth of the river, where many of them 
exchange the abundant products of the 



interior for the various stores brought 
from our own and foreign coasts. The 
railroads come in with their share of 
valuable freights ; and Albany presents, 
on every hand, abundant and gratifying 
proofs of the sagacity of those enlight- 
ened councils, which opened the grand 
channels of commerce, for the wide and 
lasting benefit of the state and the coun- 
try. 

The Albany Female Institute. — This 
seminary was founded by private sub- 
scription, and has been a flourishing 
and useful institution, conferring a high 
and solid education on thousands of the 
youths of this city and other places near 
and distant. The plan, in some impor- 
tant respects, was new: it being the 
design to afford, at the cheapest possible 
rate, a superior education on females of 
all ranks in society; and so successful 
has it proved, that several other institu- 
tions have been formed in imitation of 
it, which have in like manner been high- 
ly useful, particularly the Rutgers Insti- 
tute in the city of New York. 

The Albany Female Seminary. — This 
is another institution occupying a com- 
manding situation on the top of Capi- 
tol hill, near the statehouse and several 
other public buildings. It is founded on a 
plan which does great credit to the 
state of New York, which has so hon- 
orably distinguished itself by its liberal 
provision for the diffusion of education. 

The central Normal School is also es- 
tablished in Albany, and is doing impor- 
tant good by preparing teachers for the 
common schools. 

The City-Hall was built in 1832, of 
white marble from Sing-Sing, quarried 
and hewn by the prisoners, with a base- 
ment, and a fagade with six Ionic col- 
umns and a dome covered with gilding, 
the only specimen of the kind in the 
United States. The circular hall or xo- 
tunda contains a statue of Hamilton, 
copied frorh one by Greenough, which 
was destroyed in the New York ex- 
change by the great fire. There are al- 
so portraits of Clinton and Walter 
Scott in relief, surrounded by emblems. 

The State-Hall. — This edifice stands 
near the city-hall, and is one hundred 
and thirty-eight by eighty-eight feet. 



156 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF N15W YORK. 



and sixty-five feet in height. It is of 
brick and stone, faced with marble, and 
contains the offices of the comptroller, 
treasurer, attorney-general, sui-veyor- 
general, &c. 

The Capitol is constructed of stone, 
and cost one hundred and twenty thou- 
sand dollars. It contains the chambers 
r\{' the senate and the representatives, in 
which are found full-length portraits of 
Washington and the governors of New 
York. 

Thei'e are six banks, and twenty-five 
churches of different denominations. 

The Rensselaer Mansion, is a venera- 
ble edifice a mile north of the city, the 
residence of the Patroons of that name, 
proprietors of one of the great entailed 
estates in this state, which have been 
retained in several old Dutch families 
fi'om past generations. The estate em- 
braces vast tracts of land in different 
counties, large portions of which occu- 
pied by tenants, at various rents, usual- 
ly small, and often trifling. Within a 
few years great dissatisfaction has been 
excited among the people, and, in 1845, 
bands of men, on this and other manors, 
armed and disguised, set the laws at de- 
fiance, and committed some acts of vio- 
lence, even murder. The militia were 
called out, arrests made, and trials and 
imprisonments at length suppressed the 
" anti-rent riots." 

The Indians knew Albany by the 
name of Scagh-negh-ta-da, which is said 
to express, in their language, " The End 
of the Pint: Woods ;" and this term has 
since been applied to Schenectady, the 
town at the western extremity of the 
elevated pine-barren tract which was 
thus alluded to, there fifteen miles aci'oss, 
and still almost uninhabited. The Dutch 
called the place Beaverwyck, on ac- 
count of the principal article of the trade 
which they here carried on with the na- 
tives ; and afterward Willemstadt. The 
name Urania, or Fort Orange, was nev- 
er extended to the town, it is affirmed, 
but confined to the small fort which was 
erected by the Dutch on their first oc- 
cupying this point. The present name 
was conferred by the English, as has 
before been remarked. It is supposed 
that the first white man who ever visit- 



ed this spot was one of the companions 
of Hudson, Hardwicke Chrystance, who 
was sent from his vessel on an exploring 
party, in September, 1610. Tradition 
says he landed somewhere near the 
present North Market street. The tra- 
ding-house and fort was built that year 
or the next on the northern extremity 
of Boyd's island, a little south of the 
pi'esent ferry. It was, however, over- 
thrown and carried away by the flood, 
in the next season. A higher station 
was then chosen, on a hill two miles 
distant, at a place called ^^ KidderJioogh- 
ten'' by the Dutch, and by the Indians, 
" Ta-wass-a-gun-shee,''^ or Loohout Hill. 
Another position was preferred ere long, 
and there Fort Orange was finally erect- 
ed. The spot is near South Market 
street, and near that now occupied by 
the Fort Oranoje hotel. Eiofht larcre 
cannon were mounted for defence, of 
the sort then known to the Hollanders 
by the name, " stien gestuckten," or 
stone-pieces, because, as is said, they 
were capable of throwing large stones 
instead of iron shot. 

But, for about twenty years after this 
occupation of the spot, the Dutch spent 
only the trading seasons at Fort Orange, 
returning annually to their own country, 
with the products of their trade. In 
1625, the Dutch West India company 
offered large tracts of land to any per- 
sons who would colonize the country, 
and great numbers came over between 
that time and the year 1635, from some 
of whom many of the principal families 
of the present day have derived their 
names. 

Wood was used in Albany in all build- 
ings except the fort until 1647. The 
town was surrounded by a palisade for 
about a century, and the strict laws re- 
specting trade with the Indians, induced 
numbers of persons to remove to the 
Schenectady Flats, where they could 
trade with the natives with greater free- 
dom. The first church-building erected 
was at the corner of State, Market, and 
Court streets, and, after being enlarged 
several times was taken down in 1806, 
and the stone used in building the pres- 
ent South Dutch church. The houses 
of Albany were built in the style of 



158 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP NEW YORK. 



Holland, of small bricks, with the gable 
ends to the street, and troughs under 
the eaves projecting far over the streets. 
The Dutch language has not even yet 
wholly fallen into disuse, in some fami- 
lies. The city charter was granted in 
1686, and extended westward to the dis- 
tance of a mile from the river, and north- 
west to the north line of the manor of 
Rensselaerwyck, being 13^ miles in 
length. In 1815 the limits were en- 
larged, by adding the small town of Col- 
onic. Population, 1850, 51,000. 

Canals. — The Erie Canal was the 
first of any considerable extent in the 
United States, was planned and execu- 
ted by the influence of Dewitt Clinton 
and his friends, and must ever be regard- 
ed as the result of labors creditable to 
them and the state, the period being one 
m which much opposition was exci- 
ted against it, in consequence of the ig- 
norance of the people of works of that 
kmd. The project of connecting the 
navigation of the lakes with that of the 
Hudson, by means of a channel three 
hundred and sixty-three miles long, al- 
most every foot of wnich was to be ex- 
cavated, and which must be taken across 
streams and over hills and valleys, ap- 
peared to many as visionary and ridicu- 
lous ; but the difficulty of acquiring land 
and of reconciling conflicting interests in 
the choice of routes, conspired to in- 
crease the discouragement of the under- 
taking. Had the calculations of the 
projectors been unfounded, the result 
would doubtless have discouraged imi- 
tators : but the Grand canal of New 
York has long been, and will ever be, 
a monument of successful enterprise, 
transcending in its beneficial effects the 
most sanguine expectations. 

The Erie canal was commenced in 
1817, and finished in 1825. It extends 
from the great basin at Albany north- 
ward, along the right bank of the Hud- 
son, to the mouth of the Mohawk, and 
thence rising, by nine double locks, to 
the level of the banks, crosses the Mo- 
hawk twice by aqueducts and follows 
the valley of that stream to Rome. 
Thence it crosses to the Oswego river 
near Syracuse, whence the Oswego canal 
leads to Lake Ontario; and up the val- 



ley of that stream it proceeds to the 
Genesee at Rochester, and onward to 
the Mountain Ridge, at Lockport, where 
it rises by five double locks to the level 
of Tonawanda creek, a tributary of Ni- 
agara river, and, a part of the way, by 
the channel of the former, goes on to 
Lake Erie at Buffalo. 

The canal is there about 500 feet high- 
er than the Albany basin ; 200 of which 
are attained at Schenectady, nearly 300 
at Canajoharie, and 400 at the Long 
Level, above Little Falls. Beyond that 
are the only two descents on the route, 
and these are but small. 

Among the principal constructions on 
the route, are the grand embankment, 
near Rochester, 100 feet high and two 
miles long; the fine stone aqueducts at 
Little Falls and Rochester, the former 
214 feet long, and the latter stretching 
across the Genesee, 900 feet, on nine 
beautiful arches. At Buff'alo, is a fine 
harbor, lined with spacious storehouses, 
crowded, in the season of navigation, 
with the numerous steamboats and oth- 
er vessels employed in the navigation of 
the lakes. The branch from Syracuse 
extends through the great salt region ; 
and there are several other branches. 

The Champlain Canal. — Parting from 
the Erie canal at the junction, eight 
miles from Albany, this important work 
crosses the mouth of the Mohawk, pass- 
es through Waterford, and along the 
west bank of the Hudson, at the foot of 
the hilly range called Behmis's heights, 
the scene of the battle of Saratoga, 
crosses it at Miller's Falls, to Fort Ed- 
ward (in the French wars known as the 
First Carrying Place), passes on to Foi t 
Ann, or the Second Carrying Place, 
where it enters Wood Creek, following 
it to its mouth at Whatehall (formerly 
Skeenesborough), at the southern ex- 
tremity of Lake Champlain. The ele- 
vation overcome on this route is 150 feet, 
from which the descent is about 75 feet 
toward the north : the lake being about 
that height above the river's level at Al- 
bany. The length of the route is about 
60 miles. 

The Delavmre and Hudson Canal. — 
This canal commences at Rondout, and 
extends to the Delaware river, having 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



159 




Cascade Bridge, on the New York and Erie Railroad. 



been formed for the purpose of bringing 
coal to New York city from some of the 
Pennsylvania mines. 

The Delaware and Hudson canal was 
begun in 1825, and finished in three 
years. It is 108 miles long, and ex- 
tends from Rondout, 90 miles from New 
York, to Port Jervis, on the Delaware, 
a distance of 59 miles, then 24 miles up 
its eastern bank, to Lackawana river, 
and up that stream 25 miles to Hones- 
dale. In some places great expense 
has been laid out in blastings. A rail- 
road of 14 miles connects its extremity 
with Carbondale, Pennsylvania. The 
canal is from 32 to 36 feet wide, 4 deep, 
with locks 9 feet by 76, for boats of 25 
or 30 tons. 

Railroads. — A continuous line of 
railroads now extends from Albany to 
Buffalo, with branches, from several 
points, connecting with the great Massa- 



chusetts railroad to Boston, and the Hud- 
son river road to New York city. 

The NewYohkand Erie Railroad. 
— This road extends from the Hudson 
river at Piermont, twenty-four miles 
fiom New York city, through the south- 
ern tier of counties of the state (passing 
twice into Pennsylvania) to Dunkirk on 
Lake Erie, a distance of five hundred 
and forty miles, the latter place being 
forty-five miles southwest of Buffalo. — 
A charter was obtained for this road in 

1832. The company was organized in 

1833. and the route was surveyed in 

1834. The road was commenced in 
1836; but was suspended soon after in 
consequence of ihe commercial revulsion 
of 1836-37.— But aided by a loan of the 
credit of the state of three millions It 
was recommenced in 1811, and succes- 
sive portions of the road put in operation 
from time to time till it was finally com- 



160 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



pleted and opened to the public its en- 
tire length, in April, 1851. 

The cost of the Erie railroad, as 
stated in the report of the directors, up 
to April, 1851, was $20,500,000 ; of 
which .$2,500,000, at least, is chargeable 
to equipment-account. The amount of 
capital stock issued is $5,790,000, leav- 
ing the remainder of cost, in the form 
of bonds and* other debts against the 
company, S14,710,000; exclusive of the 
three millions loaned by the state, and 
relinquished to the company on condi- 
tions which have now been complied 
with ; and $750,000 relinquished by the 
original stockholders on certain condi- 
tions, in 1845, making the total cost of 
the road and equipments $24,250,000 ; 
although the liabilities are only about 
$20,500,000. 

The immense importance of this road 
can scarcely be estimated. It opens a 
trade with fertile regions hitherto diffi- 
cult of access, while it will bring to New 
York a large part of the increasing 
products of the lake counties, so dispro- 
portioned to the capacities of the Erie 
canal, even when enlarged under the 
recent act of the legislature. 

Cascade Bridge (a view of which is 
given overleaf), is situated 188^ miles 
from New York, and 271^ from Dun- 
kirk. It cost about $70,000 and is the 
work of John Fowler. This stupendous 
structure consists of a single arch, 250 
feet in width, thrown over a ravine 184 
feet in depth. The span of the arch has 
a rise of fifty feet, and far surpasses in 
width any other in the world, construct- 
ed of timber. This ravine is very nar- 
row, and is approached and crossed so 
rapidly, that a person in the cars can 
form no idea of the bridge itself, though 
he may judge of the depth of the gulf by 
a glance at the tops of the trees, descend- 
ing, row by row, to the rocky, thread- 
like stream at the bottom of its gloomy 
jaws. Instead of resting upon frail piers 
erected by the hand of man, each leg of 
the arch is supported on and in deep 
shelves hewn in the solid rock, that rises, 
wall-like, on both sides of the chasm ; 
and while these eternal foundations 
stand, so will the bridge. 

The Hudson River Railroad. — This 



work forms one of the most important 
means of transport and travelling within 
the limits of the state. It passes along 
the valley of the Hudson river close to 
its eastern bank. It is one hundred and 
forty-four miles long. 

The New York and New Haven Rail- 
road affords an uninterrupted line of rail- 
road to Boston, through Connecticut. 

There are several other roads within 
the state, which our limits will not per- 
mit us to describe. 

Seminaries op Learning and Reli- 
gion. — Ere concluding this brief notice 
of the public affairs of the state, a few 
facts may be appropriately added re- 
specting this important department. 

Universities and Colleges. — Columbia 
college, in the city of New York, was 
founded in 1754 ; Union college at 
Schenectady, in 1795 ; Hamilton col- 
lege at Clinton, Oneida county, in 1812 ; 
Geneva college at Geneva, in 1824 ; and 
the New York university, in the city of 
New York, in 1831 ; Madison univer- 
sity founded at Hamilton, in 1820 ; and 
Rochester university at Rochester, in 
1850, with an endowment of $150,000. 

The universities and colleges are un- 
der the inspection of the regents of the 
university of the state, and have the dis- 
tribution of the litei'ary fund. 

Theological Seminaries. — Lutheran 
at Hartwick, in 1816 ; Protestant Epis- 
copal in New York, 1819 ; Baptist at 
Hamilton, 1820 ; Presbyterian at Au- 
burn, 1821 ; rjnion at New York, 1834; 
Roman Catholic at Fordham, 1840. 

Medical Colleges. — There are two in 
the city of New York : viz., the college 
of physicians and surgeons, and the 
New York school of medicine ; and a 
third at Fairfield, called the college of 
physicians and surgeons for the westein 
distiict, and another at Buffalo. 

Academies are numerous, and the 
principal ones are under the direction 
of the state, and make annual rejjorts 
of scientific observations, &c. 

Normal Seminary. — At Albany is a 
central school for ihe instruction of com- 
mon-school teachers. Here also is pub- 
lished a journal for the benefit of the 
schools, extensively diffused among teach- 
ers and school officers. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



161 



Common Schools. — The first report 
to the legislature, showing the numher 
and condition of the schools in New York, 
was made in 1798, when the number of 
schools in the state was but about 1,500 
and the number of scholars about CO, 000. 
The first appropriations for common 
schools was made in 1795, and was on a 
scale of liberality which shows a just 
appreciation of the importance of this 
fundamental interest in the infancy of 
the state. The sum appropriated was 
$50,000 annually for five years. In 
1805, a permanent school fund was 
founded by the appropriation of half a 
milHon of acres of the vacant lands of 
the state. The annual returns from the 
school districts were incomplete till 1817, 
when there was 5,000 schools, and over 
200,000 scholars, exclusive of the city 
of New York, In 1821, the number of 
pupils had increased to over 300,000 ; 
and since that period the increase in the 
number of schools, and of children in- 
structed, has borne a near proportion 
to the increase of population, till by the 
last report of the state superintendent of 
common schools, the number of school 
districts is shown to be near 12,000, and 
the children instructed, about 800,000. 
Tlie annual appropriation from the in- 
come of the permanent fund is now 
$300,000 and from taxes $800,000, of 
which ^55,000 is appropriated to the 
puichase of school libraries and appa- 
ratus, and the remainder is applicable 
exclusively to the payment of teachers' 
wages and the support of schools. 

Since the foundation in 1835, the dis- 
trict libraries have grown to the amount 
of 1,500,000 volumes. The benefits of 
these depositories of intelligence, accessi- 
ble to every mind in the state, can never 
be adequately estimated. They will be 
abundant in the fruits of industry, vir- 
tue, and refinement, through all coming 
generations. 

A striking illustration of the pi'ogress 
of education in this state is found in 
looking at the views of her early states- 
men as to the degree of instruction to be 
provided in the common schools. The 
regents of the university, in 1793, sug- 
gest to the legislature "the numerous 
advantages which they conceive would 



accrue to the citizens in general, from 
the institution of schools in various parts 
of the state, for the purpose of instruct- 
ing children in the lower branches of 
education, such as reading their native 
language with propriety, and so much 
of writing and arithmetic, as to enable 
them, when they come forward into ac- 
tive life, to transact with accuracy and 
despatch, the business arising from their 
daily intercourse with each other." 

And this, less than sixty years ago, 
was the highest view of popular educa- 
tion entei'tained in a state, which now 
has its noble and munificently-endowed 
seminaries and colleges, its armies of 
teachers, and its hundreds of thousands 
of pupils. 

Schenectady. — This is one of the 
oldest towns in the state, and was for a 
long time important as a frontier posi- 
tion, nothing but a wilderness being 
found between it and Canada. For a 
number of years it has been distinguish- 
ed as the seat of one of the most flour- 
ishing literary institutions in the state, 
Union college, the edifices of which oc- 
cupy a pleasant and commanding posi- 
tion, overlooking the extensive meadows 
of the Mohawk, surrounded by a suc- 
cession of undulated and hilly country, 
and enlivened by the Erie canal and the 
lines of railroads which here meet by 
various routes from Albany, and proceed 
on in company, with occasional separa- 
tions, to Rochester, and finally terminate 
together at Buffalo. 

In the year 1769, Schenectady, while 
a mere village, fifteen miles west of Al- 
bany, garrisoned by a few troops, was. 
the victim of the jealousies and conten- 
tions of those sent for its protection ; for 
the soldiers having deserted their posts, 
one of those secret predatory bands of 
savages, which were long the scourge 
of our frontier settlements, led on by 
Frenchmen from Canada, fell upon it in 
the dead of night, massacred almost ev- 
ery man, woman, and child, and burnt 
their dwellings. A few fugitives esca- 
ped, and carried the shocking tale to 
Albany. 

The exposed state of the country 
west of this place was so great, and the 
number of the people so small compar 



11 



162 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



ed vrith the extent of unoccupied land, 
that inducements were not found to ex- 
tend settlements fast beyond this point ; 
and even down to the period of the 
Revolutionary war, neai-ly the whole 
middle and western parts of New York 
were included in a single county. 

A few scattering villages only were 
then to be seen, at Cooperstown, Johns- 
town, &c., &c., usually with block hou- 
ses, or other slight means of protection, 
provided against the apprehended dan- 
gers of savage parties. The five na- 
tions of Indians, viz., the Mohawks, 
Oneidas, Cayugas, Onondagas, and Sen- 
ecas, who had been, for the most part, 
friendly to the English through the 
French wars, were, many of them, 
di-awu over to the British interest by 
John Johnson, one of the sons of Sir 
William Johnson, who had long exer- 
cised the most important influence over 
those savage people. By the aia of the 
celebrated Brandt, a half-blood of doubt- 
ful character and courage, a series of 
calamities was brought upon those weak 
and defenceless settlements, which can 
not be recounted without exciting the 
mingled feelings of commiseration and 
horror. But, for those events, as well 
as for other particulars, relating to the 
history of that now populous and pros- 
perous portion of the state, we must re- 
fer our readers to the works of Mr. 
Campbell (a descendant of a family of 
the sufferers), the Life of Colonel Wil- 
let by his son, and the Life of Brandt, 
by Mr. Stone. 

Schenectady Lyceum. — This institu- 
tion (a view of which is given on the 
opposite page) was erected a few years 
since, to supply a deficiency, long felt, 
in a city so long and so honorably dis- 
tinguished as the seat of a seminary of 
the highest class. It is designed for the 
instruction of boys in studies preparato- 
ry to college and business ; and enjoys 
an advantageous and convenient situa- 
tion. The principal building is of an 
octagonal form, of brick stuccoed, in a 
fanciful Gothic style, with pointed doors 
and windows, and surmounted by a stee- 
ple. In advance of this, and of the 
line of the yard-fence, are two small 
buildings belonging to the institution ; 



and the grounds beyond are shaded 
with large and fine trees. The upper 
rooms in the main building are occupi- 
ed by the Lyceum society, and for sci- 
entific purposes. 

Cooperstown. — This pleasant vil- 
lage, two hundred miles from New 
York, by way of Catskill, and sixty-six 
from Albany, enjoys a beautiful situa- 
tion on Otsego lake, on a gentle emi- 
nence at its south end, backed by a hil- 
ly range of considerable elevation, in 
which the cleared and cultivated land 
is agreeably mingled with the forests. 
The streets, broad and straight, are well 
shaded with trees, and lined with dwel- 
ling-houses, many of them of rather an 
old and venerable appearance. To the 
Indians it is said to have been a favorite 
place of resort. 

The first white inhabitant was Mr. 
John Christopher Hardwick, who resi- 
ded here for a short time, about ten 
years before the Revolutionary war ; but 
in 1788, the first permanent settlement 
was made by Mr. William Cooper; and 
two years later, the county of Otsego 
was formed, of which this town is the 
capital. Remains of a road are still to 
be seen, which was cut through the for- 
est by a brigade of General Sullivan's 
army, from Fort Plain to the head of 
Otsego lake ; and at the outlet are some 
traces of a dam constructed by the 
troops, at the direction of their com- 
mander, General Clinton, by which the 
water was made to rise, and then, the 
dam being broken down, allowed it to 
rush down in a torrent, which cleared 
the channel of the incumbrances of logs 
that impeded the passage. 

Cooperstown is deservedly admired 
by travellers, and annually the resort of 
citizens, seeking the pleasures of the 
country in the summer season. The 
population however is small, the num- 
ber of dwelling-houses being only about 
a hundred and sixty. The people are 
distinguished for their refinement and 
courteous manners. 

Cooperstown may be taken as a fa- 
vorable specimen of one of the several 
classes of New York villages : such as 
have grown up since the Revolutionary 
war, and have no associations with the 



164 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



sufferings and dangers of the earlier 
settlements, and yet removed from ca- 
nals and railroads, and every other in- 
fluence which might have given it a 
rapid growth or sudden and great pros- 
perity. Left to the steady but slow 
imorovement of an aoricultural neio^h- 
borhood, it presents fewer evidences of 
increase in wealth or numbers, but is 
less liable to some of the evils incident 
to many other places. 

There are a few small manufactories 
along the banks of the outlet of the 
lake, where about eight thousand spin- 
dles are employed in cotton-spinning, 
and on that of Oak creek, one of the 
numerous small streams in this county, 
most of which flow southward into the 
Susquehannah. 

Otsego county is hilly, and in some 
parts mountainous, being crossed by the 
Susquehannah and Kaatsberg ranges. 
There is much good grass land. Lime- 
stone is found near Schuyler's lake in 
Cherry Valley, and iron ore in several 
places. 

Cherry Valley is one of those unfor- 
tunate villages which suffered from In- 
dian barbarity in the Revolutionary 
war ; and it may be noticed in this 
place. It is fourteen miles northeast of 
Cooperstown, and fifty-three west of Al- 
bany, amidst the high and irregular 
ground which gives rise to Canajoharie 
creek and several other early tributaries 
of the Mohawk, with the head stream 
of that river. Several vales lie between 
the neighboring hills, which possess a 
fertile soil ; and one of these, with the 
wild cherry-trees that naturally abound- 
ed in the neighborhood, gave to the 
place its pleasing name. 

It happened to lie so exposed and de- 
fenceless, in the early years of its histo- 
ry, that it shared in the dangers of the 
other scattering settlements in the neigh- 
boring region, and was finally surprised 
by a band of Indians, led by the notori- 
ous Col. Butler, from Canada, and fell 
under a general and indiscriminate mas- 
sacre, in which whole families, men, 
women, and children, bled under the 
tomahawk. 

The particulars given of this mourn- 
fiil tragedy by Wm. W. Campbell, in his 



valuable "Annals of Tryon County," 
are painful in the extreme, but yet valu- 
able to impress future generations with 
abhorrence of war, and especially that 
unwarrantable practice, in which sever- 
al civilized nations have engaged, of 
hii'ing savages to exercise their blood- 
thirsty ferocity upon the innocent and 
defenceless. The sketch given in that 
work, of the history of the settlement, 
and the character of the people, renders 
their, fate the more deeply interesting. 
We shall here introduce an account 
abridged from its pages. 

The survey was made in 1739, and 
the ground first occupied by Mr. Linde- 
say, a Scotch gentleman, of some for- 
tune and distinction. He took with 
him his wdfe and his father-in-law, a Mr. 
Congreve, a lieutenant in the British 
army. The low ground was then cov- 
ered with a thick forest of beech and 
maple, mingled with wild-cherry trees, 
the highlands with evergreen ; and the 
native wild animals, even the deer, elk, 
bears, and wolves, undisturbed by civil- 
ized man, ranged through the woods, 
being hunted only occasionally by the 
Mohawks. The settlers sought the 
friendship of the wild men, and with 
success. In the winter of 1745, while 
the snow lay very deep, and the journey 
to the nearest neighbors, on the Mohawk 
river, 15 miles off", was impossible for 
any of the family, all the provisions 
were consumed, and nothing but famine 
and death were in prospect. An Indi- 
an, travelling on sncjwshoes, becoming 
acquainted with their situation, supplied 
them with food through the remainder 
of the season, by bringing, repeatedly, 
loads upon his back all that distance. 

The following year, the settlement 
was increased, by the addition of sever- 
al Scotch and Irish families, who re- 
moved from Londonderry, in New 
Hampshire, at the invitation of the Rev. 
Samuel Dunlop, one of their country- 
men, a gentleman of education and 
travel, who had been induced by the 
present of a large tract of land, to join 
Mr. Lindesay. They brought an addi- 
tion of thii'ty persons, and the aspect of 
the place was speedily improved by 
their industry. A house was built of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NE,W YORK. 



165 



logs, for i-eligious use, on the declivity 
of a little hill, near the house of the 
pastor, whose support was secured by 
the payment of ten shillings for every 
hundred acres of land, added to prod- 
ucts of his own labor, and the voluntary 
contributions of his pai'ishioners. 

In 1744, Mr. Congreve joined the 
British army as lieutenant, in place of 
his father-in-law ; and Mr. Dunlop open- 
ed the first grammar-school in the state 
west of Albany, at which were taught 
a number of boys from the settlements 
on the Mohawk. Several of these were 
distinguished men in the Revolutionary 
war. 

In 1778, the apprehensions of an in- 
vasion from Canada was general in 
Try on county ; and, on account of the 
weakness of this solitary village, num- 
bers of the inhabitants left their homes 
for places of greater safety. In the au- 
tumn, however, the danger being sup- 
posed to be' past, they returned. But 
an expedition had been prepared at 
Montreal, consisting of seven hundred 
tories and Indians, who proceeded, with 
Brandt and Butler at their head. Ru- 
mors of their approach spread a new 
alarm; but Colonel Alden, commander 
of a few soldiers, stationed at Cherry 
Valley, refused to admit the women and 
children into the fort, and to quiet their 
apprehensions, sent out a scouting par- 
ty, who were surprised asleep, and cap- 
tured by the more cautious enemy. 

The invaders, on the 10th, reached a 
hill, a mile southwest from the fort, 
where they remained concealed till the 
next day ; and then, having learned from 
their prisoners, that the officers lodged 
in several dwelling-houses in the vil- 
lage, made preparations to surround 
them all by small parties, while the 
main body should assail the fort. Mr. 
Hamble, who was that morning riding 
into the village, being unable to discov- 
er distant objects, in consequence of the 
hazy weather, and the falling sleet, was 
fired upon and wounded by some of the 
Indians, and hastening on his horse, 
gave the alarm to Colonel Alden, and 
then turned for the fort. The colonel, 
who had always discredited the reports 
of danger, still doubted them ; but, 



on his way to the fort, was pursued and 
scalped by one of the enemy. The 
Senecas, who were the most fierce of 
the Five Nations, were foremost in the 
attack. They assailed the house of Mr. 
Robert Wells, and killed the whole fam- 
ily within, consisting of the father and 
mother, four children, his brother, sis- 
ter, and three domestics. A little son 
alone remained, who had been sent to 
school at Schenectady. He was after- 
ward a distinguished counsellor of New 
York city, the Hon. John Wells. Miss 
Jane Wells, the sister of the proprietor 
of the house, and a young lady of supe- 
rior character and exalted piety, having 
escaped by the door, sought safety in 
the woodpile ; but an Indian discovered 
her, and, after deliberately wiping his 
scalping-knife on his legging, sheathed 
it, and seized her by the arm, at the 
same time, brandishing his tomahawk. 
The captive remonstrated with him in 
the Indian language, with which she had 
some acquaintance ; and one of the to- 
ries among the invading party, named 
Peter Smith, who had once lived with 
the family of Mr. Wells as a servant, 
interposed and begged the savage to 
spare her life, pretending that she was 
his sister. But this availed only to pro- 
cure a short delay. The next moment 
the interesting young lady fell dead 
from a blow of the tomahawk. 

The house of the venerable pastor 
was entered by the enemy, and his aged 
wife immediately put to death; but one 
of the Mohawk chiefs, named Little Aa- 
ron, led him out of the house, and kept 
him under his protection. An Indian, 
running by, pulled off the old gentle- 
man's hat ; and the chief pursued him 
and brought it back. The old man was 
thus rescued from massacre ; but the 
shock he received was so great, that, 
although he was set at liberty soon after, 
he died a few months subsequently. 
The fort was not taken by the enemy ; 
but, on the first alarm, a gun was fired 
from it, which gave intimation of the 
attack. 

One of the householders, Mr. Mitch- 
ell, discovered the enemy, while at a 
distance from his house ; and finding it 
impossible to reach it, he escaped to the 



166 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



woods, and remained concealed until the 
savages had accomplished their work of 
destruction, and taken their departure. 
On returning home, a sad spectacle 
met his view — the bodies of his wife 
and four children. The house was burn- 
ing, but he succeeded in extinguishing 
the fire. On examining the bodies, he 
found evidences of remaining life in one 
of them — his little daughter. He imme- 
diately raised hei", and endeavored to 
resuscitate her ; but just then, observing 
some of the enemy approaching, he con- 
cealed himself, and, when they came 
up, saw one of them, a tory, named 
Newbury, strike the innocent little vic- 
tim with his hatchet, and thus put an 
end to his last hope. The next day the 
disconsolate father, wholly unassisted, 
removed all the corpses, on a sled, to 
the fort, where the soldiers assisted him 
to inter them. The same Newbury was 
executed for his crimes the next year, 
on the testimony of Mr. Mitchell, having 
been arr- sted when engaged as a spy, 
in the an. y of General Clinton, at Can- 
ajoharie. 

Mr. Campbell's house was attacked, 
and his family wei'e taken into captivity. 
He was absent ; but, although he hast- 
ened homeward on hearing the gun fired 
in the fort, he arrived too late to render 
any assistance. The number of inhab- 
itants killed was thirty-two, and of sol- 
diers sixteen. A few persons escaped 
to the Mohawk, and the remainder were 
made captive. The buildings were all 
burned, the settlement was laid waste, 
and abandoned by the sui^ivors, un- 
til more peaceful times. 

Little Falls. — This is one of the 
favorite spots with travellers of taste ; 
and there are but few points at which are 
assembled, within so narrow a space, 
such a display of picturesque scenery, 
with so many works of useful science 
and art. Here the Mohawk river, hav- 
ing reached the eastern boundary of the 
rich German Flats, once the bottom of 
a lake, pours through the descending, 
rocky channel cut by the current, where 
the waters, in some long-past age, found 
an outlet through their ancient barrier. 
Here, to form an artificial passage for 
boats arrivinsr at the end of the Lon^ 



level on the Erie canal, the rocky shore 
haa been excavated, and lofty walls 
erected, and sufficient breadth gained, 
to conduct that noble work, by successive 
locks, down to the level which ex- 
tends below. The railroad has since 
found a path for its more rapid vehicles ; 
and now the roar of the river mingles 
with the sounds of the locomotive and 
the bugles of the boatmen. 

The accompanying engraving gives an 
accurate and pleasing view of the natu- 
ral scenei'y, and some of the works of 
art, which stand in such striking contrast 
in this picturesque and remarkable pass. 
The village in the distance is that of 
Little Falls, which takes its name from 
the continued series of cascades, by 
which the Mohawk here finds its way 
to the meadows stretching through the 
eastern valley. The principal fall on 
this stream, the Cohoes, near its mouth, 
makes these comparatively second in 
importance ; and hence the term by 
which they are distinguished. The 
channel is in several places divided by 
rocks and islands, of rough and ragged 
forms, which bear the appearance of 
having been worn away by the force of 
a current far more deep and impetuous 
than any now ever produced by the riv- 
er, even at its highest floods ; and the 
descent of the channel is so great as to 
render the passage impossible, even in 
small boats. 

It is, therefore, doubly interesting to 
the spectator to observe the triumph of 
art, with the obstacles of nature which 
have been overcome, in full view. If 
passing through this dark, wild, and ro- 
mantic gorge, in a canal-boat, he glides 
smoothly along upon the glassy surface 
of the canal, and here and there is grad- 
ually raised or let dovv^n, by the locks, 
from one level to another, without injury 
or inconvenience, by the same element 
which is seen, in its natural, untamed 
state, rushing and raving furiously be- 
low. Or, if he is a passenger in one 
of the cars which pureue the railroad 
track, from the other side of the river he 
beholds the same scene, from a different 
but no less striking point of view, and, 
in a few moments, makes a rapid transi- 
tion from one to the other of those 



168 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP NEW YORK. 



smooth and fertile meadows which ex- 
tend along the banks of the Mohawk, at 
different levels, above and below the 
falls. 

One of the high hills on the southern 
bank of the river, at this place, has a re- 
markable cave ; and the geological fea- 
tures of the region are worthy of atten- 
tion. Beautiful crystals of quartz are 
found in the neighborhood, in consider- 
able abundance, and are washed from 
the micaceous slate by every rain. Pas- 
sengers in the rail-cars sometimes have 
an opportunity to purchase a few, of 
the children who take pains to collect 
them. 

The Marhle Aqueduct, two hundred 
and fourteen feet long, and sixteen feet 
wide, is one of the best-constructed and 
beautiful works on the line of the canal, 
crossing the Mohawk on five large arch- 
es, to bring over a supply of water from 
the old canal on the northern bank. 
The central arch is seventy feet span. 

Few constructions can be found which 
present to the eye, in so forcible a con- 
trast, the rude obstacles of nature with 
symmetry and beauty of useful art. 

The first settler in this wild spot was 
a Scotch gentleman, Alexander Ellis, 
who, by the aid of Sir William Johnson, 
obtained a patent of the surrounding 
tract. The river makes a descent of 
forty-two feet, by two rapids, within the 
distance of two thirds of a mile, with a 
broad interval of smooth and deep wa- 
ter. Above these is a dam, divided by 
an island, over which the water pours 
in small cascades. The romantic pass 
which opens through the ridge of mount- 
ains, is about two miles in length, and 
of an average breadth of only five hun- 
dred yards, while rough and woody 
heights, rises on each side nearly four 
hundred feet. Everything here, and 
above and below, indicates that a lake 
once covered the great German Flats ; 
and it is calculated that, if a dam were 
now built here seventy feet high, that 
rich and extensive alluvial tract would 
soon be overflown, and the new lake 
would find an outlet through Wood 
creek into Oneida lake and Ontario. 
The rocks are deeply worn, often by 
large and deep ciixular drills, such as 



are found at many similar spots. One of 
these is two and a half feet in diameter, 
beginning at the top of a rock thirty feet 
above the present level of the river; 
and, being broken below, allows a vis- 
iter to see the sky above, through the 
whole length of the funnel. The canal 
descends at this place by five locks, each 
of eight feet lift. 

In 1789, several prisoners were taken 
by a party of Indians, at a mill ; but 
two men escaped, by retreating under 
the waterwheel, whence the savages 
could not dislodge them. 

Rome. — This village was named at a 
time when unfounded expectations were 
entertained of its rapid and extensive 
growth. Its population, in 1850, about 
8,000. It occupies a place of great im- 
portance in the French and Revolution- 
ary wars, as it was one of the carrying- 
places on the ancient Indian route be- 
tween Lake Ontario and the Mohawk, 
by the way of Oneida lake and Wood 
creek. The Black-river canal (an im- 
portant work) passes the village, as well 
as the railroad and Erie canal. The 
ground is the summit-level between 
Lake Ontario and the ocean, four hun- 
dred and thirteen feet above the Hud- 
son at Albany, from which it is distant 
one hundred and twelve miles. The 
United States arsenal, and barracks for 
one thousand men, were built in 1813. 

Fort Stanwix (of which only some 
marks remain in the soil) was erected 
in 1758, and was at first merely a square 
fort, with four bastions, a covered way 
and glacis, surrounded by a palisaded 
ditch. It cost 62266,400, but, through 
neglect, was in ruins at the beginning 
of the Revolution. Having been hastily 
repaired, and named Fort Schuyler, on 
the 3d of August, 1777, it was invested 
by Colonel St. Leger, with a large mixed 
force from Canada, comprising one thou- 
sand Indians. Colonel Ganzevoort, how- 
ever, resolutely refused to surrender ; 
and, although in command of only seven 
hundred and fifty men, sent out Colonel 
Willet to make a diversion in favor of 
General Herkimer, who was advancing 
to his relief, and with such success that 
the enemy were driven from their camp, 
leaving their baggage and even papers. 



170 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



Twenty wagon-loads of spoils were 
brought into the fort. The invaders, 
however, returned, and the siege was 
closely pressed ; but Colonel Willet and 
Major Stockwell succeeded in passing 
by stealth through the midst of the ene- 
my, and reached General Sullivan's 
camp at Stillwater, who sent General 
Arnold with assistance. That sagacious 
officer (afterward a traitor) so terrified 
the invaders by exaggerated reports, 
that they fled in a panic, and failed in 
their enterprise as utterly as General 
Burgoyne, to co-operate with whom, they 
had come from Canada. 

Utica. — This city, situated on the 
southern bank of the Mohawk, occupies 
one of the important points where the 
line of the Erie canal and the railroad 
coincide, and are crossed by several 
country roads. It has the additional 
advantage of lying on a tract of fertile 
land, the river alluvion in that country 
being broad and rich. It is ninety-six 
miles west of Albany, and two hundred 
and forty-one miles from New York. 
Fort Schuyler, an earth work, thrown 
up here in the old French war, was the 
first point ever occupied here by white 
men ; but, as Whitestown, for some 
years after its settlement, was the prin- 
cipal place of resort in this region, as 
late as 1793, there were but three dwel- 
lings in Utica. Rome was afterward 
marked out, as the site of a future city ; 
but, although the Western Inland Nav- 
igation company, chartered in 1792, 
opened a canal from the bend of the 
Hudson here to Oneida lake, and ex- 
pectations were entertained of a great 
trade taking that direction, in ISOO, the 
Seneca turnpike was opened through 
Utica, which gave the latter place the 
advantage. It has continued to increase 
ever since. The population in 1830 was 
8,323, and in 1850, 17,240. It was 
made a village in 1798, when it receiv- 
ed the name of Utica, and it was incor- 
porated as a city in 1832. It contains 
fourteen churches, three banks, numer- 
ous stores, and a number of handsome 
private houses, with much refined and 
intelligent society. The streets of 
Utica are generally pleasant, many of 
them being planted with trees and lined 



with neat yards and gardens ; while the 
hotels are large, and the point where 
the canal and railroad pass the principal 
street is one of great activity and bus- 
tle. The view in every direction is over 
an extent of level ground, and bounded 
by the hills enclosing the valley of the 
Mohawk. 

Clinton. — The pleasant village of 
Clinton, situated nine miles from Utica, 
is the seat of Hamilton college. This 
institution owes its origin to the Rev. 
Samuel Kirkland, a missionary to the 
Oneida Indians. He was one of the 
pupils of the celebrated school of Mr. 
Wheelock, and graduated at Princeton 
in 1765. In the following year he re- 
moved to this place, and commenced a 
long, self-denying, and successful course 
of missionary labors among the Oneidas, 
over whom he obtained a strong and 
beneficial influence, of great importance 
in the Revolutionary war. While the 
other nations of the savage confederacy 
joined the English, the Oneidas remain- 
ed true to our cause. After the peace 
had been restored, he received a grant 
of land in this place and neighborhood, 
called Kirkland's patent, and again took 
up his residence here in 1792. 

The remarkable chief Skenandoa, 
with many of his people, became intel- 
ligent Christians under the instructions 
of their devoted pastor. In 1793, he ob- 
tained a charter for a seminary of learn- 
ing, designed for Indians as well as 
whites, under the title of the Hamilton 
Oneida academy, which has since been 
raised to the rank of a college. 

Trenton Falls. — The West Canada 
creek, in flowing through a long, deep, 
and narrow ravine, presents a succession 
of wild and romantic scenes, so striking 
and so interesting, that this region has 
been for some years a favorite point of 
observation to travellers of taste in the 
western tour. It is common for parties 
to stop at Utica, and devote a day to an 
excursion to Trenton Falls. The stream 
makes successive falls, four of which are 
the most considerable, but all varying 
in form and appearance. The largest 
is two miles northwest from Trenton vil- 
lage, where, within a short distance, it 
is precipitated down three perpendicu- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



171 



lar rocks, rushing over the intermediate 
spaces by steep and rough channels, in 
a furious and turbulent manner. The 
first of the falls is forty-seven feet in 
height, the second eleven, and the third 
forty-eight ; and such is the variety in 
the directions of the sheets of water and 
the surrounding objects in that wild and 
secluded dell, which is shut in on both 
sides by perpendicular banks of dark 
limestone, from one hundred to one hun- 
dred and thirty feet in height, that the 
impressions made on the mind of a 
spectator are at once awful and pleas- 

ing; 

Syracuse. — This is a large and flour- 
ishing village on the Erie canal, one 
hundred and thirty-three miles west of 
Albany, at the junction of the Oswego 
canal. Population, 1850 22,235. 

The great Salt-Spring, at Salina, is 
the most valuable in the Union, as it is 
abundant in water, very highly charged, 
and the supply is taken to numerous 
manufactories, where the salt is extract- 
ed and purified by the most approved 
processes. 

The spring rises on the marshes of 
Salina lake, a salt pond, six miles long 
and two in breadth, whose waters are 
impregnated to such a degree that its 
shores are lined with plants usually found 
only on the borders of the sea. The 
lake is surrounded by limestone hills, 
containing petrifactions ; and gypsum 
abounds in the neighboi'hood. The spot 
is a portion of that extensive region 
which reaches from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific, between the latitudes of thirty- 
one and forty-five degrees north, whose 
course is here and there betrayed by 
brine springs. In this state, such 
springs exist in the counties of Onon- 
daga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, Niaga- 
ra, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and 
Oneida ; but that of Salina is by far the 
most valuable and productive. Accord- 
ing to published statements, a bushel of 
salt may be obtained from forty-five gal- 
lons of water ; and analysis gives the 
following results for forty gallons : — 

Weight, 355 pounds ; saline matter of 
all kinds, 5Q pounds. Of this, muriate 
of soda is 51 pounds ; carbonate of lime, 
colored by oxyde of iron, 6^ ounces ; sul- 



phate of lime, 2 pounds, 4 ounces ; mu- 
riate of lime, 1 pound, 12^ ounces ; and 
probably some muriate of magnesia and 
sulphate of soda. 

The water is raised from the spring 
by a forcing-pump, and distributed 
through pipes and tz'oughs to numerous 
manufactories, large and small, of differ- 
ent kinds, in the villages of Salina and 
Syracuse, and a considerable tract of 
land lying between them. In some 
places are seen large buildings, in which 
the water is evaporated by artificial 
heat ; but the greater part is exposed, 
in shallow wooden vats, to the heat of 
the sun, being covered by sliding roofs 
when threatened by rain. A branch of 
the Erie canal affords the means of easy 
transportation, and immense quantities 
of salt are annually transported to all 
parts of the country. 

The vats are about sixteen by seven 
feet, and four inches deep, and are sup- 
plied with water sent from pump-houses 
through hollow logs. Between the rows 
of vats, sufficient space is left for carts 
to pass, in which the salt is removed. 
The salt made in this manner is coarse; 
that formed by artificial heat is fine. 
From fifteen to twenty-five boilers are 
used, usually placed in rows, which are 
supplied with salt water much in the 
same manner as the vats ; and heat is 
applied below, where fires are kindled 
in fiirnaces. In some manufactories, 
steam-pipes are used for heating, and 
pass through the water. The new spring 
at Salina yields water more strongly im- 
pregnated with salt than the old spring; 
that is, in the proportion of fifty to sev- 
enty. Fresh water being reckoned at 0, 
and water saturated with salt at 100, 
a cubic foot of water fi-om the new 
spring yields fourteen pounds of salt. 

Two mills on every bushel here are 
to be paid to the state for pumping 
the water, and six cents a bushel on all 
the salt made. About three millions of 
bushels are manufactured annually ; and 
the business, in all its branches, occu- 
pies about three thousand men, in the 
four villages of Syracuse, Salina, Ged- 
desburgh, and Liverpool. 

A Fi'ench colony for the Onondaga 
country was planned in the year 1655, 



172 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW" YORK. 



by the Jesuit Dablon, who procured at 
Quebec fifty soldiers, under the com- 
mand of Lieutenant Lawson, and set 
out with them the next year, to under- 
take one of their missions at this place. 
Under so powerful a guard, with the 
approbation of the Jesuit superior-gen- 
eral, Francis Le Mercier, the expedition 
sailed up the river ; but it was attacked 
by four hundred Mohawks, before they 
reached Montreal, who were jealous of 
the Onondagas, by whom the enterprise 
was encouraged. The Indians being 
repulsed, the party proceeded ; and, af- 
ter some delays and dangers, arrived at 
the appointed place of settlement. This 
is supposed to have been on the borders 
of Salina lake, as mention is made of a 
salt-spring. They were for a time veiy 
kindly treated by the Onondagas, who 
inhabited this region. Scarcely two 
years, however, had elapsed, before 
strong symptoms of hostility were ex- 
hibited ; several murders were commit- 
ted, and a large army of the Six Nations 
was assembled. 

The colonists became alarmed, and 
resolved on flight. By practising the 
greatest caution and secresy, they suc- 
ceeded. Canoes were made with all 
haste in the house of the Jesuit, and a 
young Frenchman, who had been adopt- 
ed by the Indians, and enjoyed their full 
confidence, persuaded them to make a 
great feast ; at the close of which they 
betook themselves to sleep ; and when 
they awoke the next day, their intended 
victims were not to be found. Having 
launched their canoes in the night, and 
taken their young countryinan with 
them, the colonists got such a stai't of 
their enemies, that they arrived in safety 
at Montreal. 

Auburn. — This beautiful village, sit- 
uated on Owasco lake, is worthy of the 
pleasing associations connected with its 
name, which Goldsmith's favorite poem 
has celebrated. Population, 9,548. 

The stateprison, located here, is quite 
a handsome building. It stands back 
about eighty feet from the road, and 
covers, including the grounds, about 
twenty-five thousand square feet. The 
wall that surrounds it is two thousand 
feet long, thirty feet high, and, at the 



base, four feet thick. On the southern 
side there is a small creek, from which, 
by means of a wheel and shaft, power 
enough is obtained to work all the ma- 
chinery inside of the walls. The prison 
consists of two wings, and the main 
body of the house, which forms three 
sides of a square ; the wings being two 
hundred and forty feet long, and twenty- 
five feet deep, and the house two hun- 
dred and eighty feet long. It was begun 
in the year 1816, and the cost was five 
hundred thousand dollars. The ex- 
penses of the prison, in the year 1839, 
were $51,671.21, and the money that 
was earned in the same year was $60,- 
161.46. The prisoners number, in the 
course of a year, from six to seven hun- 
dred. Every sabbath they are instruct- 
ed in the great truths of the Bible, 
and the younger portion are taught read- 
ing, writing, and arithmetic. When 
this prison was first built, there were 
five hundred and fifty cells ; but lately 
a few more have been added. These 
cells are arranged in four stories, and 
are seven feet high, seven feet long, and 
three and a half feet wide. They are 
very well warmed, lighted, and ventila- 
ted, and everything fixed for the comfort 
of the prisoners. The space between 
the cells and the outside wall is ten feet 
wide, and is open from the roof to the 
ground. The passages to the cells are 
three feet wide, extending out from the 
wall in front of each cell. They being 
constructed in this manner, perfect si- 
lence can be preserved through the 
night, as the slightest noise or whisper 
is heard by the watchman on guard be- 
low. This precaution is taken in order 
to prevent any conversation during the 
niglit. The same care is taken in the 
daytime, for they are made to work 
without speaking. The prison-bell rings 
soon after daybreak, which is a signal 
for the prisoners to rise, and soon after 
the keeper unlocks the doors. The 
prisoners then come out of their cells, 
each one taking his pan that is used for 
his food, his kettle for water, and his 
tub. They then put these different 
things in their respective places, and in 
lockstep walk to the workshops, where 
they work until the prison-bell rings 



=1 




lmi^I:^'«K««;R^««3)«?W?;i'^':'''Mra!lJI(T^^ 



illtSliiS 



r:» 






MM: 




174 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



again, and then in the same manner go 
to the eating-room. The tables that ai'e 
used here are very narrow, to prevent 
any intercourse. In about half an hour 
they are ordered, by the ringing of the 
bell, to return to the workshops, and 
here work until twelve o'clock, when 
again they go and take their dinner in 
the same way. As evening comes on, 
the prisoners go to the place where they 
left their tubs in the morning ; and when 
the word of command is given, each 
takes his own up and proceeds to the 
mess or dining-room, where each one 
takes his can of water and his pan of 
food, and then all walk in the same 
close step to their cells. As they enter, 
they pull the door to after them, and 
are then locked in by the turnkey, who 
has two keys entirely different from any 
othei's in the prison. The prisoners are 
divided into companies ; and each com- 
pany occupies a separate gallery. The 
turnkeys go around through the differ- 
ent galleries in stocking-feet, to see if 
the convicts are in bed. 

The stateprison at Auburn is impor- 
tant in an historical point of view, be- 
cause it is that in which a new system 
of prison-discipline was commenced, 
which has since been extensively adopt- 
ed in the large stateprisons of this coun- 
try, and, with various modifications, in 
France and elsewhere. It was invented 
and first practised by Mr. Lynds, aftei'- 
ward superintendent of the Sing-Sing 
prison. The grand object of it is to 
prevent all conversation and interchange 
of thoughts between the convicts. In 
all prisons previously in use, where con- 
siderable numbers of persons were con- 
fined, unless for offences of peculiar 
kinds, or under oppressive systems of 
government, numbers of prisoners were, 
from time immemorial, placed in com- 
mon halls, often in a very crowded man- 
ner ; and not only immoral conversation, 
but the basest crimes, might be indulged 
in. So great were the evils of that sys- 
tem, that many innocent persons have 
been ruined by their contact with felons 
of the worst character, while awaiting 
trial. The expense of keeping and 
guarding men in such circumstances was 
very great ; and to Mr. Lynds belongs 



the honor of the inestimable improve- 
ments which have been made, although 
he was accused of occasional practices 
of unnecessary severity, in the punish- 
ment of offenders or suspected persons 
among the prisoners under his charge. 

Not a word is allowed to be spoken 
by the convicts while at work ; and each 
small party of laborers is attended by a 
sentinel, at whatever employment, and 
every infringement of the rule of strict 
silence which he can observe is instant- 
ly reported and punished. Their cells 
are solitary, although ai'ranged side by 
side in long rows, and separated only by 
single walls ; and sentinels are so posted, 
at night, that no communication can be 
carried on between any of the prisoners. 
In the largest pi'isons, where a thousand 
or more peisons are confined, a dead 
silence reigns from the hour of retire- 
ment till that of breakfast. A few men 
are sufficient to guard a great number, 
thus isolated in mind, and yet made to 
move and act in compact bodies. A 
plot is impossible : one man can not 
even form an acquaintance with anoth- 
er. Whenever they move, they are re- 
quired to march at a regular step, in 
single file, and close together ; a difficult 
march, which requires strict attention. 
They often receive their food on re- 
turning from work, without stopping; 
for being marched through the kitchen, 
each takes his can from a table, and car- 
ries it to his cell. 

Religious services are often held in 
chapels connected with the prisons, and 
chaplains usually find many of the con- 
victs accessible to their private instruc- 
tions. Each cell has a Bible, and sab- 
bath-schools are often kept by benevo- 
lent people of the neighborhood. In 
some cases, also, as in New York city, 
societies provide temporary lodgings 
and woi'k for discharged convicts, and 
otherwise interest themselves in their 
welfare. 

The Prison-Discipline Society, which 
was formed in Boston about twenty-five 
years ago, early recommended the prin- 
ciples on which the Auburn prison was 
conducted, and greatly contributed to 
their general adoption in the United 
States and foreigrn countries. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



175 




Geneva Medical College. 



Geneva. — This place is conspicuous 
among the lake villages for the beauty 
of its appearance from the water. It 
stands at the outlet of the lake of the 
same name, upon the western bank ; 
and the houses of some of the more 
wealthy inhabitants occupy the summit 
of the higher ground, which rises one 
hundred and twenty feet, just behind the 
busiest streets, and descends with a hasty 
but graceful slope to the water, adorned 
by the gardens, green with useful plants, 
and gay with blooming flowers. The 
surrounding country presents that gen- 
tly-varied surface peculiar to this part 
of New York, where, for many miles, 
the ground has the appearance of hav- 
ing been channelled from north to south. 
The lowest depressions are occupied by 
several of the small lakes, while the 
heights of the intermediate ridges com- 
mand exte^isive and pleasing views over 
the gently-undulated country between. 

The settlement of Geneva was begun 
in the year 1794, by Mr. Austin and Mr. 
Barton ; and the act of incorporation 
was passed in 1812. The immber of 
dwellings is about five hundred ; and 
there are nine churches, a bank, &c. 



The Geneva College was one of the 
earliest institutions which adopted a 
plan of studies adapted to young men 
preparing for other professions than 
those usually termed "learned;" and, 
like several others since established in 
different places, affords instruction in 
practical branches to such students as 
prefer to pursue them. The buildings 
occupy a remarkably fine, agreeable, 
and commanding situation, on the ele 
vated shore of the lake, near the south- 
ern extremity of Main street. 

This college, incorporated in 1825, 
has professors of mathematics, natural 
philosophy, Latin and Greek, statistics 
and civil engineering, modern languages, 
history and belles-lettres, chymistry and 
mineralogy. There is also a medical 
department, commonly called — 

The Medical College of Geneva. — The 
building belongs to the medical depart- 
ment of the college, which is under the 
direction of four professors. The in- 
habitants of this beautiful town have 
distinguished themselves by their liber- 
ality in providing and supporting insti- 
tutions of the most valuable character ; 
and few places of equal size can be found 



176 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



in the country better provided. This 
building, with the others connected with 
the college, is an ornament to the town, 
while it makes a conspicuous appear- 
ance from a- distance. 

Rochester. — This flourishing and 
important city in this part of the state, 
is of such recent growth, that, until the 
year 1810, there was not even a single 
dwelling on its site. The whole tract 
was once a mill-lot, and was purchased, 
in 1802, by Nathaniel Rochester and 
two associates, at S15.50 an acre — $1,750 
in all. Some of the land on the eastern 
bank of the Genesee was sold at eigh- 
teen pence an acre in 1790, by the great 
speculators of the day — Phelps and Gor- 
ham. In 1816, the population was only 
three hundred and thirty-one. 

The flour business is extensively car- 
ried on at Rochester. There is a large 
number of gristmills, with runs of stones 
sufficient to grind several thousand bar- 
rels of flour daily. The amount made 
annually amounts to near a million of 
bai-rels. There are also several woollen 
and cotton mills, with many saw and 
other water mills of different kinds in 
this busy town. 

Few towns in the Union present such 
evidences of a great and lucrative busi- 
ness, on so small a space of ground, as 
Rochester, in the immediate vicinity of 
the river, at and below the aqueduct. 
The mills above referred to, form a 
double line of large, massive, stone 
buildings ; and the greatest activity pre- 
vails in and around them, where crowds 
of men are constantly employed in the 
various kinds of business which are car- 
ried on in them, and in the various other 
mills and manufactories adjacent, as 
well as at the depots of the canal and 
the railroad. Above twenty churches, 
several of them remarkably handsome, 
as well as capacious edifices, are among 
the public buildings, although the first 
pi-esbyterian church, which is the oldest, 
was erected in 1815 ; and so late as in 
January, 1813, at the celebration of the 
Indian new-yeai', the Senecas performed 
their last heathen ceremonies on the 
ground, near the site of the present 
Bethel church. An interesting account 
of these, as well as of many other par- 



ticulars relating to Rochester, may be* 
found in the history of the town, pub-, 
lished in 1835. 

The falls of the Genesee at this place 
are one of the most remarkable of the 
cataracts in New York, and rendered by 
art the most useful. The upper one is 
small, making an inconsiderable descent 
over a rocky bed of only a moderate an- 
gle of descent ; but, as the grand aque- 
duct is built over it, the effect of the 
flowing water is increased by the ob- 
struction of the channel by the masses 
of stonework, and the contraction thus 
formed of the passage. The middle fall 
is the principal one ; and that is per- 
pendicular, over a rocky precipice, which 
rises like a wall from the lower to the 
upper level of the river. In pouring 
over this, the water plunges ninety-six 
feet, sometimes in a few small streams, 
but, in floods, in a general sheet. It 
was here that the celebrated Sara Patch, 
after performing many astonishing leaps, 
unharmed, from fearful heights, lost his 
life, in the year 1829, by jumping from 
the rocks into the basin. 

Below this spot, the river flows a mile 
and a half, through a wide and deep 
channel, passing several rapids, when it 
reaches the two lower falls. Here the 
surrounding scenery is rough and wild; 
and the river first pours over a precipice 
twenty-five feet high, and immediately 
afterward over another of eighty-four 
feet. The banks below are high, rocky, 
and perpendicular, for a considerable 
distance, showing numerous stratifica- 
tions, which have been cut through by 
the current. Across the awfiil chasm a 
wooden bridge was erected, in 1819, of 
one noble arch, whose chord was three 
hundred and fifty-two feet, and the versed 
sine fifty-four feet. The entire length 
of the bridge was seven hundred and 
eighteen feet, and the width thirty feet. 
The top of the arch was not less than 
one hundred and ninety-six feet above 
the river. It contained seventy thou- 
sand feet of timber, and sixty-four thou- 
sand, six hundred and twenty feet, board 
measure. Just one year and a day after 
its completion, it fell in ruins by its own 
weight, the sides of the arch pressing 
up the top. 




MWWKiwa^".v 







Falls of Niae:ara. viewed f-om Table Eock. 




12 



178 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



Carthage, a small town on the eastern 
bank, is a place of considerable business, 
as a communication between Rochester 
and Lake Ontario was established some 
years since, by an inclined plane from 
the high bank to the river, where boats 
received and discharged cargoes. The 
business has greatly increased ; and there 
are now three railroads from Rochester 
to the navigable part of the river, six 
miles from the lake-shore. 

Buffalo. — This city, before referred 
to. IS one of the principal inland towns 
of I he state, and the centre of the lake 
and canal navigation and railroad com- 
munication, is pleasantly situated on the 
summit, declivity, and base, of the table- 
land which borders the end of Lake 
Erie and the head of Niagara river. 
The streets ai'e broad, clean, and well 
built, and numerous blocks of stone- 
houses border the stream which here 
pours into the lake. A lighthouse, a pier, 
and an improved harbor, all subserve 
the extensive commerce of the place. 

Niagara Falls, celebi'ated throughout 
the world as the most stupendous of cat- 
aracts, lies partly in the state of New 
York and partly in Canada. A more 
sublime spectacle can not easily be con- 
ceived, and none can anywhere be found 
on earth to compare with it. The river 
Niagara, a broad, deep, and rapid stream, 
the outlet of Lake Erie, the deepest of 
the American inland seas, also discharges 
the waters flowing toward the ocean 
from the whole chain of lakes above. 
Passing, with a hasty but unbroken cur- 
rent, by Grand island, it soon approach- 
es the vei'ge of the mountain ridge ; and, 
after rushing for about half a mile down 
a declining, rocky bed, forming the rap- 
ids, it is precipitated over a precipice 
one hundred and sixty feet high, into a 
gulf of unknown depth below, with a 
roar which is sometimes audible at the 
distance of twenty miles. 

It is remarkable that the sheets of 
falling water are entire and unbroken, 
from top to bottom, in their whole extent, 
without any interruption worthy of being 
mentioned. Goat island, near the mid- 
dle, divides the river for some distance 
above and at the fall. On the New York 
side, the cataract presents a straight 



line ; but between Goat island and the 
Canada side, it is curved inward, form- 
ing the Horseshoe. Thousands of trav- 
ellers annually visit the spot, to admire 
this great natural curiosity ; and fine 
hotels, on both sides of the river, afford 
them ample accommodations. Stair- 
cases have been excavated at different 
places, by which visiters can get safely 
down to the best points of view. A 
walk under the cliff is very intei-esting ; 
but to pui'sue the slippery and danger- 
ous path under the sheet of water, be- 
neath the falling torrent and the mighty 
rock over which it falls, requires both 
courage and caution. Parties, however, 
often incur the hazard, and submit to 
the inconvenience caused by the extreme 
dampness of the atmosphere, which is 
constantly surcharged with spray, and, 
being agitated by conflicting cuiTents 
of wind, soon wets one to the skin. 

Every change of season, weathei', and 
light, imparts some peculiar aspect to 
this extraordinary scene. The rising 
sun gilds the edges of the cataract, and 
illuminates the upper banks, with their 
wild crests of overhanging trees, while 
the darkness of the awful gulf below is 
enhanced by the unintermitted roaring 
and concussions of the tremendous mass- 
es of water dashed together. The lofty 
column of mist, which for ever stands, 
like a cloud, over this scene of noise 
and fury, is sometimes dark as a thun- 
der-storm, but more frequently of a 
snowy whiteness, and illuminated and 
painted by rainbows, whose arches vary 
in their position and direction with the 
course of the sun. Night casts a tone 
of majesty over the scene, as difficiilt to 
be duly described as to be witnessed 
without emotion, especially when the 
moon silvers the rocks, the water, and 
the spray, or when, in winter, it falls 
upon the forest-ti-ees, glazed with the 
frozen spray, and upon the immense 
icicles, often more than a hundred feet 
in length. 

It is almost impossible for any living 
thing to survive the descent of this aw- 
ful cataract. Deer and other animals 
have sometimes been carried down, j 
while attempting to swim across the I 
river above ; and, in several instances, 




4 I 



180 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 




The Van Kleeck House. 



men have been borne down to the awful 
verge, and plunged to unknown depths 
in the black gulf beneath. 

The vicinity of Niagai'a has been sig- 
nalized by several important military 
events. The French fortress of Fron- 
tenac, at the mouth of the river, was 
captured by the British, after a siege ; 
Fort Erie, at the head of the stream, 
was taken by the Americans, in the war 
of 1812 ; Buffalo was burnt by the ene- 
my ; Lewistown was taken, by an Amer- 
ican force, by a bold coup-de-main, after 
crossing in boats, and scaling an almost 
inaccessible height on the shore. The 
battle of Lundy's Lane and Bridgewa- 
ter was fought within a short distance 
of the cataract, and gave the Americans 
some of their greatest advantages in that 
unhappy contest. 

Grand island, a little above the cata- 
ract, is a good agricuhural region, and 
is remarkable as the site of the proposed 
city of "Ararat," offered as a gather- 
ing-place of the Jews, and as a camp 
occupied by the invaders of Canada, in 
the late attempt at revolution. 

The passage to the islands, over the 
bridge, affords the visiter a gratifying 
though an agitating view of the rushing 
stream, just as it pours furiously by to 
its stupendous leap down the awful 
precipice. With astonishing skill and 
boldness, the slight fabric has been con- 
structed, from rock to rock, across the 
wild and dangerous channel ; and the 



spectator views its waves with awe and 
fear, as they glide beneath his feet, and 
intimate the sudden and fatal conse- 
quences of a single misstep. 

The Welland canal, on the Canada 
side, gives a passage to lake-vessels from 
Erie to Ontario. 

A wire-bridge across Niagara river, 
below the falls, has been built, and is 
of sufficient strength to allow the passage 
of great weights. 

Without naming numerous other pla- 
ces and objects of great interest, we re- 
turn to the Hudson river. 

PouGHKEEPSiE. — This is one of the 
pleasantest villages in the valley of the 
Hudson, but is so situated, at the dis- 
tance of a mile from its eastern shore, 
as to be quite out of sight to travellers 
passing in steamboats. It is one of the 
most flourishing villages in this part of 
the state ; and its settlement dates back 
to about the year 1700, when it was first 
inhabited by a few Dutch families. The 
soil is favorable to cultivation, while the 
stream which flows through the town 
makes a succession of falls, amounting, 
in all, to a descent of about a hundred 
and sixty feet, and affords water-power 
to various mills and manufactories. The 
place contains three printing-offices, two 
banks, and eleven churches, with twelve 
schools. Population, 1850, 11,080. 

The Van KleecJc House. — This was the 
first house ever erected in Poughkeep- 
sie. It was tlie residence of Myndert 



'S. 




182 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 




Church of Our L 

Van Kleeck, one of the first settlers in 
the county ; and the remarkable build- 
ing, with the surrounding grounds, was 
in possession of his descendants in the 
year 1835, when it was taken down. It 
was built in 1702. It was for many 
years a public-house ; and, in 1787, was 
occupied by the legislature as a state- 
house. The session held there was the 
eleventh, and the governor of the state 
was then George Clinton. 

The Collegiate School is an institution 
for education, in a large building one 
hundred and fifteen feet by thirty-five, 
well proportioned, with a fine colonnade, 
and surrounded by spacious grounds, 
tastefully adorned. The building cost 
forty thousand dollars ; and it commands 
a fine view of forty or fifty miles upon 
the surrounding country, with the ridge 
of the Catskill mountains, twenty miles 
distant toward the south. Poughkeepsie 
lies below, about a mile in front; and 
the elevation occupied by the edifice 
c^ mmands a charming view of the Hud- 
son, enlivened by numerous steamboats 
and other vessels engaged in its varied 
and active commerce. 

Poughkeepsie is one of the largest 



ady at Cold-Spring. 

I manufactories of locomotives in the 
United States. The surprising success 
. of Americans, in the improvement and 
I construction of the most complex and 
I powerful steam machines, and especnal- 
j ly of this class, has excited admiration 
I abroad, as well as at home ; and multi- 
tudes of our locomotives are now per- 
forming the labors of some of the prin- 
cipal railroads of Europe, while our 
furnaces and workshops are resounding 
with the preparations for many more. 

Roman Catholic Church at Cold- 
S])ring. — A few miles below Pough- 
keepsie, and opposite West Point, on 
an elevation commanding a view of the 
river, is this neat little edifice, just above 
the landing. It is of plain, Grecian 
style, with four Doric columns. The 
material is brick, but the whole is cov- 
ered with stucco, which gives it the ap- 
pearance of white stone. 

The Sfone-Chtirch at Doi-^er. — About 
twenty-four miles east from Poughkeep- 
sie, near the village of Dover, is a re- 
markable cavern, which, from the pecu- 
liar, angular form of its roof, has re- 
ceived the name of the " stone-church." 
This natural cavity appears to have been 



1R4 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



slowly formed by the flowing of a stream, 
which, coming down the mountain in 
which the cavern is found, enters at a 
narrow fissure in the roof, and, descend- 
ing from crag to crag, presents a beau- 
tiful succession of cascades, till it reaches 
the level of the floor, where it spreads 
out in a quiet little pond. The whole 
cavern is large, being divided into two 
compartments by an immense rock which 
has fallen from above. The inner cham- 
ber is about seventy feet in length, 
while the Gothic arch above is twenty 
feet in width, and the top about two 
hundred feet high. 

" The scene," remarks a visiter, " is 
well fitted to inspire devotional feelings : 
the heart acknowledges the power of the 
Ci-eator, and ris^s in admiration of his 
works." 

Troy is one of tlie numerous towns 
in this state which display striking evi- 
dence of rapid, substantial, and perma- 
nent improvement, which has been so 
extensively occasioned by the enlight- 
ened internal policy of the government, 
and accomplished by the intelligence and 
industiy of the people. A view from 
Mount Ida, an eminence rising abruptly ' 
from its eastern border, embraces a 
scene of life and activity seldom sur- 
passed. A young and flourishing city 
below, with streets crowded with busy 
people, the noble Hudson sweeping ma- 
jestically by, crossed by a fine pier, 
which serves the double purpose of a 
bridge and a viaduct to the railroad — 
the combined trunk of the Champlain 
and Erie canal, floating the crowded 
boats from the north and the west — sev- 
eral of the splendid New York steam- 
boats, which penetrate to this highest 
accessible point : all these are embraced 
within the immediate range of the eye, 
with the various si<rns of bustle to which 
they give rise. The United States ar- 
senal, at Watervliet, stands opposite; 
while nearer by, the environs of Troy 
are beautified by the mansions and gar- 
dens of some of the wealthy citizens, 
and the rumbling of machinery, and the 
smoking of chimneys, betray the vicini- 
ty of some of the largest and best manu- 
factories in the country. Some of these 
are supplied with moving-power by the 




St. Paul's Church, Troy. 

small but constant streams flowing down 
the eminence on which the spectator is 
supposed to stand ; and such is the va- 
riety found among the factories, mills, 
&c., in this immediate vicinity, that we 
can not pretend to give a full account 
of them. Population,"l850, 29,000. 

Plattshurgh. — This town, the capi- 
tal of Clinton county, one hundred and 
twelve miles north of Whitehall, and 
one hundred and sixty-four miles from 
Albany, enjoys an advantageous and 
pleasant situation, on ihe western side 
of Lake Champlain. The township is 
supplied with many fine mill-seats, by 
the Saranac and Salmon rivers, and sev- 
eral other small streams ; and the east- 
ern pait of it is generally level, although 
the western is hilly. The village stands 
on the lake-shore, at the .mouth of the 
Saranac. In speaking of Lake Cham- 
plain, on a preceding page, we alluded 
to the important naval victory achieved 
on the Cumberland bay, opposite this 
place, in the last war with Great Brit- 
ain, in 1814. 

Plattsburgh was twice taken by their 
troops, but the country below was final- 
ly delivered from danger by the event 
just mentioned. The victorious Ameri- 
can squadron, under Commodore Mc- 
Donough, had 820 men, and 86 guns, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



185 



and the British 1,050 men, and 96 guns. 
The following recollections of" tlie battle 
are from the pen of a friend : — 

" The Battle of Plattshurgh. — It was 
a bright sabbath in September, one of 
those rich, soft, and mellow days that 
liegin to wear the sober tints of autumn, 
that my childish heart was made sad by 
the scenes and the sounds of war. Our 
home was on the eastern border of the 
lake, just across from Plattsburgh ; and, 
for many long months, the event of bat- 
tle had been the theme of conversation 
by the fireside, among men as they met 
in their daily haunts, and friends by 
the wayside. Preparations were going 
forward for defence ; and among men 
there was enlisting, draughting, &;c., nnd 
all things wore the aspect of some im- 
pending evil, which threw a kind of 
gloom over the feelings, in which all 
sympathized. We lived within less than 
a day's march of the enemy's ground, 
and consequently were often alarmed 
with conjectures and painful suspense, 
in regard to their movements. Often 
were we surjjrised with rumors of the 
near approach of the British — that they 
had ci'ossed the lines — were marching 
down upon us, &c., which kept the in- 
habitants in a very uneasy and unsettled 
condition. But so many false alarms 
had a tendency, at length, to lull them 
into a state of indifference, or to allay 
their apprehensions so much, that peo- 
ple had resumed their avocations in 
comparative quiet. 

" But at last the event burst upon us, 
with all the dreaded realities of blood- 
shed and war ! The scene was suffi- 
ciently distant to prevent immediate 
danger, yet all knew that their future 
security hung on the result, and every 
eye was strained, and every heai't beat 
with deep anxiety, for the sequel. 

" It was a peaceful sabbath morning ; 
the sun had risen with its accustomed 
splendor, and nature wore the stillness 
peculiar to the sacred day. But alas ! 
it was a strange sabbath with man. The 
booming sounds of guns came across the 
water, in such quick and rapid succes- 
sion, that they shook the earth, and 
sounded like heavy and deep-toned 
thunder. The engagement lasted two 



hours and twenty minutes ; and we 
knew the work of death was going oji 
at every new report. Such a sabbath 
may this land never see again ! It was 
not a ' day of rest,' or of worship, but 
one to be remembered with feelings of 
horror and dread. A few gathered in 
the morning, aged men, women, and 
children, in a lonely grf)up, for worship; 
but, as the excitement increased, every 
man fled from the village, and, in short, 
almost every one had climbed to some 
height on the hills, or in the steeple of 
the church, to read, in the progjess of 
events, our consequent destiny. When 
the Bi-itish ships struck their colors, and 
victory was the cry, there was great re- 
joicing, in the sure and delightful feel- 
ing of safety, far more than in that of 
success. 

" Men and boys had neai'ly all crossed 
over the lake to witness the scene, from 
the hills about the village, a,|nd were 
spectators of the bloody aflray. One of 
my brothers wefit aboard one of the 
vanquished ships, soon after the action 
ceased. The deck was strewed with 
the dead and dying, weltering in gore. 
The gallant Downie, who had command- 
ed the British forces, lay on a large iron 
chest, just as he was slain. Victory was 
the theme and the cry of the conquer- 
ors ; but grief and dismay were the feel- 
ings of the vanquished. 

" The officers who fell in these en- 
counters, both by land and water, were 
buried side by side in the graveyard at 
Plattsburgh. Monuments have been 
erected to all. Friends and foes sleep 
as quietly as if they had never had col- 
lision here on earth. Commodore Dow- 
nie, though slain in the invasion of our 
counti-y, as the officer of the highest 
rank, is placed in the centre ; and a tab- 
let, erected to his memory, bears the 
following inscription : — 

" ' Sacred to the memory of George 
Downie, Esq., a post-captain in the Brit- 
ish navy, who gloriously fell on board 
his B. M. ship Confiance, while leading 
the vessels under his command to the 
attack of the American flotilla, at anchor 
in Cumberland bay, off Plattsburgh, on 
the 11th of September, 1814. — To mark 
the spot where the remains of a gallant 



186 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



oflficer and sincere friend were honora- 
bly interred, this stone has been erected 
by his affectionate sister-in-law, Mary 
Downie,' 

'* The family of Dr. Davidson were 
residents of Plattsburgh at this time; 
and Mrs. Davidson, in a work of hers 
called ' Selections,' has given an inter- 
esting sketch of events that occurred in 
her own family during the scene of 
those eventful days. 

" After some months, the vessels were 
taken to the head of the lake, at White- 
hall. Circumstances of travelling just 
at that time gave me an opportunity, in 
the impressible season of childhood, to 
see from the tall masts the British and 
American flags floating lazily in the 
breeze, the conquered ' lion' looking 
just as fierce and terrible as if he had 
not been a captive among Americans. 
We were invited on board, and saw the 
mutilated ships of war. They were 
making preparations to sink them in 
the lake, which was afterward done, for 
preservation, and the soldiers were 
rolling cannon-balls into their holds, as 
weights. 

" Commodore M'Donough was pres- 
ent — a man of middle stature ; but thei'e 
was nothing in his looks or manner which 
indicated aught of the exciting scenes 
through which he had passed. It is said 
of him that, after the enemy's fleet hove 
in sight, the men of his ship were as- 
sembled on the quarter-deck, when he 
kneeled down, and, in humble and fer- 
vent prayer, commended himself, his 
men, and the cause in which they were 
engaged, to the 'God of battles,' and 
arose from that posture with a calmness 
and serenity on his brow which showed 
that he had received comfort and assu- 
rance from above. 

" The dead of both armies were taken 
to the small islands near the scene of 
action, and there buried. Those waters 
now look as blue and as beautiful as if 
never disturbed with war ; and those 
islands are as green and verdant as if 
never broken with new-made graves." 

New York City. — The site of this 
city, which was first occupied by Euro- 1 
peans in 1614, or 1G15, and then only \ 
by the erection of a blockhouse'near its i 



southern extremity, is now the most 
populous, as well as the most important, 
on the western continent, and vies, in 
commercial rank, with many of the prin- 
cipal ones of the old world. It now oc- 
cupies the whole of Manhattan island, 
being conterminous with the county of 
New York. Its limits, therefore, extend 
to the narrow channel between the Hud- 
son and East rivers, called Harlem river; 
a distance of 14^ miles, with a breadth 
varying up to two miles, and an area of 
21| square miles. The southern por- 
tion, forming about one sixth of the 
whole, is occupied by the main body of 
the populatioii, amounting, in 1840, to 
312,710, and in 1850 to 515,547. The 
number of buildings, in 1850, in the com- 
pact ])art of the city, was 37,730 ; the 
valuation of real estate, 8227,000,000, 
and of personal estate, 893,000,000. 

The harbor is very capacious, with 
good anchorage for the largest ships, 
almost wholly free from shoals, and with 
currents strong enough to keep it usu- 
ally free from ice in the winter, even 
when more southern ports are obstruct- 
ed. Governor's and Bedlow's islands 
ai"e strongly fortified ; and the entrance 
to the lower bay is defended by Fort 
Hamilton, on Long island, Fort Lafay- 
ette, on a rock in the water, and batte- 
ries on Staten island, opposite. The 
Hudson river opens a natural navigable 
channel of 150 miles to Albany, and 
with the vaiious canals and railroads 
heretofore mentioned ; while the East 
river communicates with Long Island 
sound, which pours much trade into this 
city. Lines of the most capacious and 
splendid steamboats lead daily, and al- 
most hourly, in all directions ; and new 
channels of communication are now in 
preparation, which will still further fa- 
cilitate and extend the great commer- 
cial relations of New York. 

The streets in the lower and oldest 
part of the city are generally narrow and 
crooked ; but in the upper portion, to 
which many of the inhabitants have 
changed their residences within a few 
years, they are straight, broad, well 
built, and more agreeable. 

The number of churches is 245. Of 
these tljere are — baptist, 31 ; congrega- 



r^J 



188 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



tional, 9 ; Dutch reformed, 17 ; friends, 
4; Jewish, 11 ; Lutlieran, 5; methodist 
episcopal, 31 ; methodist protestant, 2; 
presbyterian, 35 ; associate preshyterian, 
4 ; associate reformed preshyterian, 2 ; 
reformed presbyterian, 4 ; protestant 
episcopal, 47; Roman catholic, 21 ; uni- 
tarian, 2 ; universalist, 4 ; Welsh, 3 ; 
miscellaneous, 16. 

There are about forty banks, exclu- 
sive of eleven for savings. There are 
^asylums for lunatics, at Bloomingdale ; 
colored, indigent, and aged, at 42d street ; 
deaf and dumb, 50th street ; blind, 9th 
avenue; orphans, 117th street, and 71st 
street, 6th avenue. Prince street, 11th 
street, and colored orphans, 12th street; 
lying-in women, Marion street ; old la- 
dies, 20th street. 

Schools. — Ward schools, 19; primary, 
3; schools of the Public School Society, 
18, and primary, 59. Both the ward 
and the public schools are free to chil- 
dren of all classes, and wholly gratui- 
tous, even to the books used by the chil- 
dren. The latter were commenced about 
thirty years ago, through the exertions 
of a few benevolent individuals, at a 
time when public education was neg- 
lected; and, under the chai'ge of a very 
faithful and intelligent board of trustees, 
and superintended by Mr. Seton, a de- 
voted friend of the poor and ignorant, 
they rose to a high eminence, under the 
liberal patronage of the state. 

The eighteen schoolhouses of this so- 
ciety, above-mentioned, are fine brick 
buildings, usually about eighty by forty 
feet, and two or three stories high, able 
to contain from five to twelve hundred 
children each. The monitorial system 
is practised. 

The ward schools have since been 
established, in wliich that system is not 
used. The trustees and other ofliicers 
are chosen annually by the people, and 
their schools are multiplying. 

The Institution for the Education of 
the Deaf and Dumh. — This institution is 
situated near 33d street and 4th avenue. 
The building is 110 by 60 feet, and con- 
tains about two hundred pupils, from all 
parts of the state, many of whom are 
supported and instructed at the puhlic 
expense. The building affords sleeping 



and dining-rooms, with apartments for 
recitation, the family of the superintend- 
ent, and the eight instructors, the kitch- 
en, &c. The system of instruction re- 
sembles that practised in the other deaf 
and dumb asylums in the United States, 
being founded on the principles of the 
Abbe De I'Epee and the Abbe Sicard, 
introduced into tliis country by Mr. Gal- 
laudet, at the expense of the American 
asylum at Hartford, about the year 181 5. 

The Institution for the Education of 
the Blind, is erected on land presented 
by James Boorman, Esq., at the expense 
of the state, aided by a gift of fifteen 
thousand dollai's from Mr. Burke, and 
other donations. The building faces the 
Hudson river, at a short distance from 
the bank, and contains lodgings for a 
large number of pupils, most of whom 
are supported by the state. They are 
taught the common branches of learn- 
ing, Avith vocal and instrumental music, 
and several useful handicrafts best adapt- 
ed to their abilities, chiefly the manu- 
facture of baskets, rugs, bandboxes, and 
carpets. 

The Croton Aqueduct. — The city of 
New York is abundantly supplied with 
pure and wholesome water, by a work 
of greater length than any other in the 
couTitry, and at a greater expense. The 
supply is derived from the Croton river, 
in Westchester county, at a point about 
forty miles from the city. That stream 
is dammed, and is capable of affording 
a much greater quantity than can be 
needed in a long course of years. The 
aqueduct passes most of the way under 
ground, through a pipe of masonwork, 
constructed in the most skilful manner, 
but crosses several streams, the broad- 
est of which is Harlem river. The 
bridge thrown across is one of the most 
important constructions on the line. It 
is 1,450 feet long, with fifteen arches — 
eight of them eighty feet span, and sev- 
en of fifty feet span, 114 feet above tide- 
water at the top. 

The receiving reservoir is at 86th 
street, about five and a half miles from 
the city-hall. It covers thirty-five acres, 
and contains one hundred and fifty mill- 
ions of gallons. There the water is re- 
ceived, and allowed to stand long enough 



190 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP NEW YORK. 



to deposite the particles of sand and 
clay it has brought down, and then it is 
diawr off into the second or distributing 
reservoir. 

This reservoir is situated at 42d street, 
on the height of ground about three 
miles from the city-hall. It is an im- 
mense structure of hewn stone, resem- 
bling a modern fortress of the first class, 
covering four acres, and capable of 
containing twenty millions of gallons. 
From this iron pipes lead off, gradually 
branching in different directions, with 
stops, hydrants, &c. 

Many houses are now supplied with 
this excellent water, not merely for cu- 
linary purposes and drinking, but also 
for bathing, &c. There is also reserved 
a supjily for the extinguishment of fires, 
of inestimable value to the city, which 
has heretofore suffered most severely for 
the want of it. 

Several of the public squares are 
adorned with beautiful fountains, some 
of which throw the water nearly a hun- 
dred feet perpendiculai'ly, not, as at 
Versailles, after being raised by ma- 
chinery, but by the force of the natural 
head. 

Public Squares. — The Battery, named 
from the use made of it in early times, 
is a fine public walk on the southern I 
exti'emity of the isftmd, shaded with 
trees, and commanding a delightful view | 
upon the bay. Being exposed to the 
sea-breezes, and in full view of the nu- 
merous boats and vessels of all descrip- 
tions, continually passing, the Batteiy is 
a favorite resort in warm weather. 
Castle-Garden is a place of amusement, 
formed in an old fort, connected with 
the Battery by a short bridge, near which 
filoatinff-baths are moored in the bathinsf 
season. 

The Bowling- Green, just north of the 
Battery, is a small circular green, sur- 
rounded with an iron railing, shaded 
with lofly trees, and ornamented with a 
beautiful fountain, where a stream of 
Croton water is thrown about ninety 
feet into the air, and falls upon a beau- 
tiful structure of marble, and thence 
into a basin. The Washington, I Broad- 
way, was the headquarters of Lord 
Howe, in the Revolution, and, after the 



close of the war, was occupied by Gen- 
eral Washington. The Atlantic, and 
several other hotels, stand opposite or 
near this favorite square. 

The Park. — This is the most central 
and important of the public squares, at 
the junction of two grand avenues of 
the city, Broadway and Chatham street, 
containing the city-hall, the new city- 
hall, and the hall of records, and is 
surrounded by many other important 
edifices, such as the Astor house, Tam- 
many hall, Stewart's store, museum, &:c. 
It contains, also, a public fountain, with- 
in a basin about one hundred feet in 
diameter, which has a variety of jets, 
that are occasionally changed. When 
the water is thrown in a single stream, 
it ascends to the height of seventy feet, 
presenting a majestic appeai'ance. 

St. John's Park, in the western part 
of the city, is pi'ivate, being accessible 
only to the inhabitants of the surround- 
ing houses. It is closely planted with 
trees, and has St. John's church fronting 
it on the east. 

Washiiigton Square, between 4th and 
6th streets, just west of Broadway, lies 
in front of the university, and one of the 
reformed Dutch churches. 

Union Place, at the noi'thern termi- 
nation of Broadway, is in an elliptical 
form, enclosed with a fine iron fence, 
having a public fountain in the centre, 
with ornamental jets, and is a delightful 
place of resort to the inhabitants. 

Fuxther up the city are other public 
squares, as Madison square, Hamilton 
square, and others, not yet regulated. 
On the east are Tompkins square and 
Bellevue, the latter the seat of the alms- 
house. 

Wall Street, the central point of the 
banks, insurance offices, &c., contains 
the exchange and the customhouse. The 
exchange is of Quincy granite, three sto- 
ries high, and a basement, covering a 
block between four streets, and is 197 
feet 7 inches on Wall street, 144 on one 
side, and 170 on the other, with a large 
dome above, 100 feet high. 

The customhouse, at the corner of 
Nassau street, is of white marble from 
SinCT-SinsT, and in the form of a Grecian 
temple, with a colonnade at each end, 



192 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



and pilasters on the sides. The interior 
is almost wholly of hewn stone. The 
principal hall is in the centre ; and all 
the departments are well arranged, with 
ample accommodations for the numerous 
offices and clerks. 

The City-Hall. — This fine and spa- 
cious edifice occupies the centre of the 
park, facing the south, and presents a 
beautiful Grecian front, of 216 feet in 
length, rising from a broad terrace. A 
flight of wide steps leads up to arched 
entrances, above which is a balcony on 
the second story. The two wings have 
halls in front, devoted to the common 
council, the superior court, &c., while 
other coui'ts and offices are accommoda- 
ted in other parts of the building. On 
the top is the great fire-bell, which in- 
dicates, by the number of strokes, the 
districts of the city in which fires are 
burning, for the direction of the fire- 
companies. A view from the cupola 
aifords one of the finest pi'ospects of the 
city. 

Trinity Church, on Broadway, oppo- 
site the head of Wall street, occupies 
the site of the first episcopal church 
erected in the city, in 1696, except the 
chapel in the front. It is of sandstone, 
in the Gothic style, 137 feet long, 36 
feet wide, and 67 feet high, with a tower 
30 feet square, and a steeple whose top 
is 283 feet from the ground. In the 
rear is a vestry, 72 feet long. The 
church contains an organ, which cost 
$10,000. In the burial-ground surround- 
ing the church, lie interred many distin- 
guished persons, particularly Alexander 
Hamilton and Captain James Lawrence. 
Prisons. — The Halls of Justice is the 
city prison popularly known as the 
" Tombs," and is situated a little north 
of the park. It was built, about ten 
years ago, to obviate the evils of the 
bridewell, which was constructed on the 
defective principles of the old system. 
The building is 200 by 253 feet, of 
granite, in the Egyptian style, and con- 
tains various court-rooms. The cells are 
solitary, to prevent communication be- 
tween the prisoners, but provision is 
made for ventilation and warming the 
cells, by openings in the wall. Meas- 
ures are taken for the religrious instruc- 



tion and moral improvement of those 
confined. 

TJie Penitentiary, on Black well's 
island, in the East river, is an immense 
stone structure, on the Auburn plan, 
with a chapel, keepers' rooms, &c., in 
the centre, the cells for females in the 
south wing, and for men in the north. 
Each wing is more than 200 feet long. 

Brooklyn. — This city is on Long 
Island, opposite New York city, with 
which it is connected by ferries, upon 
which steamboats ply, every few minutes, 
day and night. Its beautiful and elevated 
situation has made it a favorite residence 
of n}any persons doing business in New 
York. It contains a city-hall, thirty 
churches, several banks and insurance 
companies, and over seventy thousand in- 
habitants. The Liyceum is a fine building 
of granite, with a spacious lecture-room. 
The City Library of 3,000 volumes, has 
a fine building and reading-room. 

The Navy- Yard has extensive grounds 
enclosed, with an arsenal, stores, ship- 
houses, docks, the naval lyceum, &c. 
The nava^ hospital, at a little distance, 
is a fine, large building. 

Greenwood Cemetery is an extensive 
tract of ground, about three miles below 
Brooklyn, and situated on the bay. It 
has an undulated surface, and is laid out 
in lots, the access to which is by pleas- 
ant, winding carriage-roads. The for- 
est-trees are left standing in many places, 
shading the little lakes, or covering the 
hills, and, in others, those of vai'ious fo- 
liage are intermingled by art ; while 
tombs and monuments, usually planned 
and executed with taste, are already 
scattered in all parts. 

Staten Island, with an elevated and 
varied surface, offers many fine sites for 
villages and country-houses, and is the 
resort of many citizens, access being 
made frequent and convenient by nu- 
merous steamboats. The quarantine 
hospitals are situated on the northeast- 
ern side ; and a little below is the "sea- 
men's retreat," a noble institution, sup- 
ported by the " hospital money" paid by 
sailors. 

Hoboken and Weehawken, on the 
shore of New Jersey, opposite the city, 
are pleasant retreats. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



193 



History of the Sons of Liberty' 
IN THE OLDEN TIME. — The American 
Revolution, which has produced such 
extraordinary results both at home and 
abroad, and which is destined to cause 
still greater changes in the Eui'opean 
world, will elevate the eighteenth cen- 
tury beyond that of any of its predeces- 
sors in the annals of history. The suc- 
cess of the great struggle for liberty, 
which was by the many supposed hope- 
less, and which present historians deem 
almost miraculous, was brought about 
by the courage and perseverance of a 
few indomitable spirits, whom no labor 
could weary or danger appal; and it was 
by their moral courage, perseverance, 
and intrepidity, that this great Revolu- 
tion was begun, continued, and ended. 

Many of those who figured largely in 
the history of the times, and some even 
who swayed the councils of the nation 
after the struggle was successfully begun, 
were content with encouraging the re- 
volt of others, without committing them- 
selves, and kept within the pale of safety 
until they could embark without fear 
upon the perilous sea. But there were 
others who were not only the principal 
agitators, but actors themselves in the 
most daring exploits; and who threw 
themselves into the breach in the most 
dangerous conjunctures. Had it not 
been for these, who took upon them- 
selves the fearful responsibility of di- 
recting and participating in overt acts 
of rebellion, the studied arguments of 
others who wished to bring on a crisis, 
but blenched from its dangerous concom- 
itants would have been unavailing. 

In the year 1765 Isaac Sears, after- 
ward better known by the name of King 
Sears, a man of great personal intre- 
pidity, forward in dangerous enterprises, 
and ready at all times to carry out the 
boldest measures, became the origina- 
tor and leader of a patriotic band, who 
associated themselves together under 
the name of the " Sons of Liberty." 
Their organization soon pervaded every 
part of the colonies, and was the germ 
of the Revolution. By their intrepidity 
the spirit of the masses was aroused, 
and by their persevering industry and 
zeal the people were excited to oppose 



all efforts to enslave them. These>bold 
spirits formed the nucleus of the future 
armies of the Revolution ; and it is to 
the moral courage which they displayed, 
and the indomitable resolution with which 
they braved all danger, that the world 
is indebted for the illustrious example 
set by the infant colonies to Europe, and 
the foundation of a great and glorious 
republic. 

The influence of these patriotic men, 
and the successful issue of the struggle 
begun by their boldness and sustained 
by their energies, has scattered abroad 
the seeds of freedom, which have borne 
fruit, in encouraging a spirit of inquiry 
throughout the civilized world, which 
has reformed despotic governments, and 
regenerated the fairest empires of the 
Old World. 

If the successful issue of the Revolu- 
tion has solved the problem of the pos- 
sible existence of a free yet powerful 
government, it is, first, to the devoted 
individuals who, despising the dangers 
and disgraces to which they were ex- 
posed, set at naught the penalties and 
disqualifications of conspiiacy and trea- 
son, and entered into the contest with a 
full knowledge of all its hazards, and a 
determination to persist to the death to 
effect their emancipation — secondly, to 
those brave men who bore arms in the 
subsequentstruggle — that the great meed 
of applause is due. To all these, how- 
ever obscure their names or imperfect 
their efforts, the nation at large owes a 
deep and lasting debt of gratitude. 

The task of perpetuating the fame of 
many of the great leaders of the Revo- 
lution has fallen into the hands of able 
historians, who have well performed 
that duty. To rescue from oblivion and 
to do justice to the founders of our lib- 
erties, whose deeds, active or passive, 
whose personal or moral courage was 
instrumental in producing great and uni- 
versal benefits to mankind, is peculiarly 
the duty of the present age. Now, 
when the present race, who first opened 
their eyes to an emancipated country, to 
enjoy the blessings purchased by the 
blood of their fathers, are fast verging 
to the grave, it is incumbent on all who 
have the means of elucidating past trans- 



13 



194 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YOEK. 



actioos, or the power to do justice to the 
actors in the scenes which have preceded 
them, to lend their efforts before they 
are called to their own exit, lest the 
deeds of their ancestors be forgotten. 

It has often been remarked by histo- 
rians as a duty every true patriot owes 
to the public and posterity, to bring to 
light whatever can be collected from the 
perishing matei"ials of former days. 
There are ancient manuscripts in every 
part of our country, which are thrown 
aside as waste^paper in families not 
aware of its value. This kind of knowl- 
edge deals much, to be sure, in dry de- 
tail; hnt Jacts, upon which historians 
can afterward enlarge and philosophize, 
are what are chiefly important. We 
deem it a matter of such consequence 
that, if the exertions of individuals be 
not sufficient for the purpose of collect- 
ing and preserving these materials, pub- 
lic authority should lend its aid to accom- 
plish this object, which is, in a peculiar 
degree, of public concern and interest. 
In this way are preserved to posterity 
the undoubted records of our early his- 
tory. 

The intent of the first association of 
the " Sons of Liberty" was to put down 
the stamp-act ; and when this was effected 
the objects of the society appeared to be 
accomplished. But the acts of parlia- 
ment, simultaneous with and subsequent 
to the repeal, gave to the more sagacious 
a cause for alarm greater than the ob- 
noxious bill which had been rescinded. 
The billeting act, or mutiny bill, by es- 
tablishing a standing army in the colo- 
nies at their own charge, was intended 
to strengthen the arm of the royal au- 
thority, to overawe the assembly, and to 
coerce the people to acquiesce in the 
impositions of the parliament. 

History is full of the resistance to the 
enormous assumptions of the mother- 
country by New England and at the 
south ; but little is said of the attitude 
of New York in that dangerous crisis. 
And yet in that colony, where the power 
of the sovereign was almost omnipo- 
tent, notwithstanding the exertions of 
the most wealthy inhabitants whose large 
estates were held by grants from the 
crown and whose subservience to the 



royal mandates influenced the assembly, 
and all those who subsisted by the royal 
bounty, there was found a chosen few 
who remained constant to the last ; and 
who, when all seemed lost, kept alive 
the spirit of resistance, until from a 
feeble and hopeless minority they were 
enabled to triumph over the power of 
the colonial government and prostrate 
the royal authority forever. 

The association of the " Sons of Lib- 
erty" was organized in 1765, soon after 
the passage of the stamp-act, and ex- 
tended throughout the colonies, from 
Massachusetts to South Carolina. It 
appears that New York was the central 
post from which communications were 
despatched to and from the east, and to 
the south as far as Maryland ; which 
province was the channel of communi- 
cation to and from its neighbors of Vir- 
ginia and the Carolinas. 

As the postoffices were under the 
control of the government, and the riders 
not at all times reliable, the committee 
of New Y^'ork (and probably the other 
provinces adopted the same course), 
upon extraordinary occasions, despatch- 
ed intelligence by special messengers; 
and if need were, a part of their mem- 
bers visited in person the neighboring 
associations to insure the perfect organ- 
ization of the patriotic league. 

The NewY'^ork association had a cor- 
respondent in London, to whom an ac- 
count was given of their proceedings, 
and from whom intelligence was from 
time to time transmitted of their pro- 
ceedings and the supposed designs of 
the ministry, which in its turn was dis- 
seminated among the people by the as- 
sociation at home. A record of the 
names of the most active of their leaders 
would be a desirable document, but as 
this would be difficult to be obtained 
without great labor, and, perhaps, by a 
single individual impossible, a list of 
the committees in the different provinces, 
so far as they can be ascertained, from 
the remaining papers of the committee 
of New York, might be the means of 
initiating inquiry in other quarters tow- 
ard producing the desired result. 

Those from Maryland will appear 
fiom the following extract from the pro- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP NEW YORK. 



195 



ceedings of the " Sons of Liberty," 
March 1, 1766. 

" The Sons of Liberty of Baltimore 
county, and Anne Arundel county, met 
at the courthouse of the city of Annap- 
olis, the first day of March, 1766. 

" On motion of a Son of Liberty to 
appoint a moderator and secretary, the 
Rev. Andrew Londrum was chosen 
modei'ator, and William Paca, secre- 
tary. 

" Joseph Nicholson, of Kent county, 
presented an address from that county, 
signed William Ringgold, William Ste- 
phenson, Thomas Ringgold, jr., Joseph 
M'Hard, Gideon M'Cauley, Daniel Fox, 
Benjamin Binning, William Bordley, 
Jarvis James, William Stukely, Joseph 
Nicholson, jr., James Porter, Thomas 
Ringgold, James Anderson, Thomas 
Smyth, William Murray, Joseph Nichol- 
son, George Garnet, S. Boardley, jr., 
Peroy. Frisby, Henry Vandike, and 
John Bolton." 

William Paca, Samuel Chase, and 
Thomas B. Hands, were the Anne 
Arundel county committee. 

John Hall, Robert Alexander, Corbin 
Lee, James Heath, John Moale, and 
William Lux, were the Baltimore county 
committee. 

Thomas Chase, D, Chamier, Robert 
Adair, Patrick Allison, and W. Smith, 
wei'e the Baltimore town committee. 

Pennsylvania. — William Bradford and 
Isaac Howell were the correspondents 
at Philadelphia. 

New Jersey. — Daniel Hendrickson, 
minister, Peter Imlay, jr., Jos. Holmes, 
jr., Peter Covenhoven, jr., and Elisha 
Lawrence, jr., were the committee of 
Upper Freehold — Richard Smith, of 
Burlington, and Henry Bickers of New 
Brunswick. 

Connecticut. — Jo. Burro wes ; Jona- 
than Sturgis, Fairfield ; John Durker, 
Norwich ; Hugh Leollie, Windham. 

New York. — Isaac Sears, John Lamb, 
William Wiley, Edward Laight, Thos. 
Robinson, Flores Bancker, Chas. Nicoll, 
Joseph Allicoke, and Gersham Mott. 

Jeremiah Van Rensselaer, Mynhard 
Roseboom, Robert Henry, and Thomas 
Young, Albany. 

John S. Hobart, Gilbert Potter, Thos. 



Brush, Cornelius Conklin, and Nathan- 
iel Williams, Huntington, Long Island. 

George Townsend, Barack Sneething, 
Benjamin Townsend, George Weeks, 
Michael Weeks, and Rowland Cham- 
bers, Oyster Bay, Long Island. 

The first organization of the Sons of 
Liberty was dissolved at the repeal of 
the 8tamp-a«t; and while the hope was 
strong that similar associations would 
no longer be necessary, the committee 
received a letter from their faithful cor- 
respondent in London, of the following 
import : — 

London, 28<A Jnly, 1766. 

Gentlemen : I flattered myself to have 
heard from you by the last ships, but 
am informed your society is dissolved, 
which I am glad to hear, as the cause 
of your complaint is removed. But I 
think it necessary to assure you that 
the continual account we had of the 
Sons of Liberty, through all North 
America, had its proper weight and ef- 
fect. 

As our gi-acious sovereign rules over 
none but free men, and in which he 
glories, it therefore can not offend him 
that his numerous and faithful sub- 
jects in America claim the appellation 
of Sons of Liberty. Permit me, there- 
fore, to recommend ten or twenty of the 
principal of you, to form yourselves 
into a club, to meet once a week, under 
the name of Liberty Club; and for ever, 
on the 18th of March, or first day of 
May, give notice to the whole body to 
commemorate your deliverance, spend- 
ing such day in festivity and joy. I beg 
pardon for taking the liberty to advise 
you ; but I am firmly of opinion it will 
have such effect as you wish. 

I have the honor to be, gentlemen, 
your most humble servant, 

Nicholas Ray. 

P. S. — The commercial acts and free 
ports which we lately sent to all the 
colonies I believe will give you pleas- 
ure. 

To the Sons of Liberty, New York. 

To this letter the committee returned 
the following reply : — 



196 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



New York, October \Oth, 1766. 
SiR : Your esteemed favor of the 28th 
July last, we have duly received ; and 
observe with the greatest regret your 
disappointment at not hearing from us, 
agreeably to your expectations, which, 
permit us to assure you, was not owing 
to any remissness on our part, or want 
of respect ; but to the dissolution of 
our society, which happened immedi- 
ately upon the repeal of the stamp-act. 
Your proposal with regard to a num- 
ber of us forming ourselves into a club, 
we have already had under considera- 
tion. But as it is imagined that some 
inconveniences would arise, should such 
a club be established just at this time, 
we must postpone the same till it may 
appear more eligible ; at the same time 
we take the liberty to assure you, and 
all our good friends on your side of the 
water, who so nobly exerted themselves 
in behalf of us, and the expiring liber- 
ties of their country, that we still do, 
and ever shall, retain the most grateful 
sense of the favors we have received; 
and that we shall use our utmost en- 
deavors, consistent with loyalty, to keep 
up that glorious spirit of liberty which 
was so rapidly and so generally kindled 
throughout this extensive continent. In 
order to which, we shall not fail here- 
after to celebrate the anniversary of the 
repeal, with every demonstration of 
gratitude and joy, on the memorable 
eighteenth day of March. 

We have the honor to be, in behalf 

of the Sons of Liberty, sir, your most 

obedient and obliged humble servants, 

Isaac Sears, Edward Laight, 

Flores Bancker, John Lamb, 

Chas. Nicoll, Joseph Allicoke. 

To Mr. Nicholas Ray, merchant, London. 

It was not long before the necessity 
for reorganization became apparent, and 
most of the committee, who had acted 
with so much vigor and zeal, were found 
equ'illy vigilant on every emergency. 
Of the persons before named of the 
New York association, Mr. Allicoke 
alone is known to the writer to have 
espoused the cause of the king. But 
with the exception of Messrs. Nicoll 
and Bancker, whose names do not ap- 



pear on any of the subsequent commit- 
tees, the others were the most deter- 
mined opposers of the crown and stead- 
fast adherents to the revolutionary party. 

Biography of Colonel Isaac Sears. 
— Among those who originated the op- 
position to the stamp-act, and who band- 
ed themselves together at the first en- 
croachments of the mother-country, un- 
der the designation of associated Sons 
OF Liberty, there existed, of course, a 
great diversity of intellectual endow- 
ments ; nor did all render to their 
country in those perilous days the same 
important services. Like the luminaries 
of heaven, each contributed his portion 
of influence ; but, like them; they dif- 
fered, as star differs from star in glory. 
In the constellation of great men which 
adorned that era, whose united boldness 
and constancy drove the ministeral par- 
ty to abandon their open attempts, and 
to mask their resolved purposes under 
measures less palpable to the general 
perception, feAV shone with more bril- 
liancy, or exercised a more powerful in- 
fluence, than the subject of this bi'ief 
memoir. 

This gentleman was bora at Nor- 
walk, Fairfield county, Connecticut, in 
the year 1729. From the records of his 
native town, we leani that his parent 
Joshua Sears came from Harwich, 
Barnstable county, Massachusetts, and 
bought lands in South Norwalk in 1720, 
from his brother-in-law, Josiah Thatch- 
er. By the Harwich records, after care- 
ful researches made by Amos Otis, Esq., 
a distinguished antiquarian, it appears 
that Joshua was a resident of Harwich, 
and married Mercy Thatcher, in 1719, 
and removed to Connecticut. His pil- 
grim ancestor, Richard Sears, originally 
of Colchester, England, stands inscribed 
— one of eighty-nine names — on the first 
rate-list, in the old colony records. He 
came from Holland, with sixty persons, 
and landed at Plymouth on the 8th of 
May, in 1630, the last, or among the last, 
of Robinson's congregation at Leyden. 

Colonel Sears was engaged for sever- 
al years in an extensive and profitable 
business, as a dealer in European and 
India goods, at New York, New Ha- 
ven, and Boston. But in 1763, when it 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



197 



was announced that the British minis- 
try had in view to tax the colonies for 
the purpose of raising a revenue, which 
was to be placed at the disposal of the 
crown, his mind was turned to politics, 
and became in a great measure detached 
from mercantile pursuits. The cause 
of freedom at once became an all-en- 
grossing subject with him. He felt its 
inspiration. It occupied his warmest 
thoughts, enlivened his conversation, atid 
employed his pen. In respect to his 
private affairs, this was an unfortunate 
trait of character ; but most fortunate for 
his country, since he thus acquired an 
extensive knowledge of those principles 
of rational liberty which he afterward 
asserted and maintained with so much 
energy. 

At a public meeting held on the 6th of 
November, 1765, Sears and four others 
were appointed the committee of corre- 
spondence with the other colonies. Bot- 
ta, in his history of the United States, 
says that it was difficult to fill the com- 
mittee ; but that Sears first volunteered, 
and was joined by four othei'S, whose 
names, he regrets, are not known.* 

On the 26th of December, 1765, this 
committee notified the public that they 
would soon be called upon. Informa- 
tion had been received that a further 
importation of stamps was expected. 
On the 7th of January, 1766, they ar- 
rived, were seized and destroyed, and 
notice sent to Philadelphia. The an- 
swer to that despatch is directed to 
Messrs. Sears, Lamb, Robinson, Wily, 
and Mott. No other committee is 
known to have existed at that time, and 
that committee managed the correspond- 
ence with the different colonies, and 
with the interior of the state. They 
framed articles of union for the differ- 
ent colonies, which were sent to the east- 
ward for concurrence, and after it was 
obtained, despatched them to Baltimore 
to be approved, and sent further south 
for adoption. Of this, proof is to be 
found in the original draughts of letters 
(or copies) and replies that were ad- 
dressed to those gentlemen. 

It is believed that the principal let- 

* They were John Lamb, Gershom Mott, Wil- 
liam Wily, and Thomas Robinson. 



ters, instructions, &c., forwarded to the 
sister-colonies, were prepared by Mr. 
Seais, as the chairman of the associa- 
tion. In various ways his appeals made 
the most powerful remonstrances against 
the injustice of England, in debasing 
Americans from the character of free 
subjects to the state of tributary slaves. 
The " Sons of Liberty" were among 
the first who uiged the necessity of 
that mutual understanding and corre- 
spondence among them, which laid the 
foundation of their future confederacy ; 
led to the first continental congress at 
New York, in 1766 ; prepared the way 
for the continental congress which as- 
sembled in Philadelphia on the 5th of 
September, 1774 ; and eventually re- 
sulted in the public and explicit decla- 
ration of independence on the ever- 
memorable 4th of July, 1776. 

Apait from the higher, the epochal 
incidents in the life of humanity, the 
epitomes of years, deeds, and nations, 
there are events which do not claim to 
be inscribed upon the page of general 
history ; and yet, fixim the deep local 
influence they once exercised, still pre- 
serve a commemorative interest, and 
convey an impressive lesson. The great 
war of our independence is rife with 
such illustrations. Its memories and 
heroes crowd so thickly upon us, that its 
history can not yet be written. But as 
each day adds to the legendary store, 
and we draw nigh the hour when it may 
be traced, time silently distils the mass 
of events, and the mingled vapors which 
ascend from the alembic, will be con- 
densed by impartiality into truth. 

The events we are about to recall, 
occurred in New York and its vicinity, 
between the months of September, 1775, 
and September, 1776. 

The revolution was hardly three 
months old. But already from the cra- 
dle of liberty it had strangled its ser- 
pents at Lexington and Bunker's hill. 
The American army, encamped around 
Boston, owned Washington's command, 
and held at bay the beleagured British, 
In the oppressed colonies, a spirit of re- 
sistance had organized the resolute yeo- 
manry ; and with the victories inscribed 
upon the national escutcheon, the patri- 



otic chord was vibrating in every heart. 
War had not yet disturbed our goodly 
city, which lay in unconscious repose, 
on the mellow night of the 23d of Au- 
gust, 1775. One or two riots, the re- 
sult of political faction, rather than of 
unadulterated rebellion, alone gave to- 
kens of a turbulent spirit. The Eng- 
lish governor, Tryon, still dwelt here, 
an object of courtesy, though of mis- 
trust. In the North river, off the fort, 
lay the Asia, a British man-of-war, with 
whose presence people had become fa- 
miliar. The public mind was in a state 
of vague apprehension. It remained for 
its hopes and fears to assume a definite 
shape. 

Toward midnight, our forefathers 
were aroused from their first slumbers 
by the thunder of artillery. At that 
silent hour, the ominous sounds were 
unwelcome visitants. The cannon peals 
were relieved by the sharp discharge of 
musketry ; and the stillness that ensued 
was occasionally broken by the hasty 
footsteps of one summoned to his duty, 
with unbuckled sat)re trailing on the 
ground, or by the agitated cry of a help- 
less woman, fleeing from the audible 
danger. Drums beat to arms ; volley 
afler volley announced the continuation 
of the strife ; and the half- waked dream- 
er no longer mistook these cries of war 
for the echoes of eastern battles. As the 
night advanced, one body of men suc- 
ceeding another was revealed by the 
blaze of torches, and the cumbrous 
wheels of the field-piece they were 
dragging, seemed to leave reluctantly 
the scene of conflict. By-and-by, troops 
of dwellers in the lower part of the 
town escaped through the streets, from 
their menaced or shattei'ed abodes, in 
confusion and fear. Was the enemy in 
the city ] the Battery taken 1 Were 
the troops forced to retreat before a vic- 
torious foe ? These interrogatories were 
breathed rather than spoken, or if put, 
were not answered. It was a memora- 
ble night, and something seemed to 
have delayed the approach of morning. 

The town was early astir. At break 
of day, many inhabitants were seen is- 
suing from their dwellings, and wend- 
ing their way to the Battery. To those 



already assembled there, when night up- 
rolled her curtain of clouds, the glowing 
dawn that shot over our noble bay, dis- 
closed traces of disorder, and ravages 
of the cannon-ball, on the one hand and 
on the other, the smoke still ascending 
from the angry artillery to the powder- 
stained rigging of the Asia. Moreover, 
the field-pieces, which but yesterday 
guarded the Battery, were gone. These 
the timid received as tokens of danger, 
and prepared to depart ; the intrepid 
hailed them as auspicious omens of fu- 
ture victories. 

The twenty-one pieces of oi'dnance had 
been removed by order of the provincial 
congress. Col. John Lamb's artillery 
corps, and the " Sons of Liberty," head- 
ed by Colonel Sears, were the heroes 
of the adventure. The efforts of the 
enemy to protect these royal stoi-es, had 
proved unavailing. Warned of the in- 
tended movement. Captain Vandeput, 
of the Asia, detached an armed barge 
to watch, and if needful, interfere with, 
its execution. A musket fired fi'om this 
boat, drew Colonel Lamb's volley, and 
a man on board was killed. The Asia 
fired three cannon. The drum beat to 
arms in the city. The man-of-war sus- 
tained the cannonade. Three citizens 
were wounded, and the upper parts of 
various houses near Whitehall and the 
fort, received much injury. A son of 
Colonel Lamb, whose regiment covered 
the cannons' retreat, is now living in 
this city, and in the rooms of the " His- 
torical Society" may be seen one of the 
very balls fired into New York that 
night. 

James Rivington was, then, the edito- 
rial and proprietary publisher of the 
'• New York Gazette,"* and as the oppo- 

• This Gazette attained the greatest notoriety du- 
ring the revolutionary ■war, and was at first entitled, 
Rivington' s New York Gazetteer; or, The Connec- 
ticut, New Jersey, Hudson's River, and Quebec 
Weekly Ad'vertiser. 

This Gazette commenced its career April 22, 
1773, on a large medium sheet folio. It was print- 
ed, weekly, on Thursday ; and when it had been es- 
tablished one year, this imprint followed the title, 
"Printed at his ever open and uninfluenced press, 
fronting Hanover square." A large cut of a ship un- 
der sail was at first introduced into the title, under 
which were the words " New York Packet." This 
cut soon gave place to one of a smaller size. In No- 
vember, 1774, the ship was removed, and the king's 
arms took the place of it. In August, 1775, the 



site party subsided in the expression of 
its political sentiments, and loyalism was 
no longer in terror of a Sears, he not 
only gave free vent to his own views, 
but so far forgot himself, as sadly to 
abuse those of his radical neighbors. 
Emboldened by their quiet reception of 
his denunciations, he expressed these in 
still more forcible tones, and doubtless 
exulted in this victory over whig opin- 
ions. 

It was high noon, on Thursday, the 
twenty-third of November. The Ga- 
zette had been issued that morning, and 
the worthy editor was seated in his cabi- 
net, examining the new-born sheet, just 
like any gentleman of the press in our 
day, when the sound of hoofs on the 
pavement beneath, drew his attention 
to the window. Looking out into the 
street, he beheld, with dismay, his old 
enemy. Col. Sears, at the head of an 
armed troop of horsemen, drawn up 
before his door. The men and their 
leader dismounted with the utmost de- 
liberation, and a part of them entered 
the printer's abode. A few moments 
after, he saw his beloved printing-press 
cast into the street, and heard the tu- 
mult raised in the compositors' room 
above him, by those engaged in the 
work of demolition. To his despair, 
the materials thrown upon the pave- 
ment were speedily transferred to the 
dock, and the invaders sallied forth with 

words " Ever open and uninjluenced" were omitted 
in the imprint. 

The Gazetteer was patronized in all the principal 
towns by the advocates of the British adnainistration 
who approved the measures adopted toward the col- 
onies ; and it undoubtedly had some support from 
•' his majesty's government." The paper obtained 
an extensive circulation, but eventually paid very lit- 
tle respect to " the majesty of the people ;" and, in 
consequence, the paper and its publisher soon be- 
came obnoxious to the whigs. 

While in England, Rivington supplied himself 
with a nesv printing apparatus, and was appointed 
king's printer for New York. After the British 
gained possession of the city, he returned ; and. on 
October 4, 1777, recommenced the publication of his 
Gazette under the original title, but in two weeks he 
exchanged that title for the following: " Rivington's 
New York Loyal Gazette;" and on the l^thof De- 
cember following, he called his paper, '• The Royal 
Gazette." Imprint : •' Published by James Riving- 
ton, Printer to the King's Most Excellent Majesty." 
The Royal Gazette was numbered as a continua- 
tion of the Gazetteer, and Loyal Gazette, and was 
publirihed on Wedne.sdays and Saturdays; printed 
on a sheet of royal size, with the royal arms in the 
title. 



many a pound of precious types in their 
pockets and handkerchiefs. A large 
crowd, collected by so unusual an event, 
stood aloof, quiet spectators of the scene. 
The cavaliers remounted their steeds, 
and rode off toward Connecticut, whence 
they came, and where, as was subse- 
quently ascertained, the oifending types 
were melted down to bullets. 'Thus 
liberty assailed the freedom of the press, 
and the balls whilom cast with joy into 
types, reassumed their pristine shape 
and destination ; the ploughshare was 
reconverted to the sword. 

Although no opposition was offered 
to these proceedings, by the body of 
citizens assembled near Rivington's door, 
there stood upon a neighboring stoop a 
lad of eighteen years of age, with an 
eye of fire, and an angry arm, harangu- 
ing the multitude in a tone of earnest 
eloquence. He urged that order should 
be preserved ; appealing warmly to the 
dignity of citizenship, " which," said he, 
" should not brook an encroachment of 
unlicensed troops from another colony," 
and offering to join in checking the in- 
truders' progress. The sins of Riving- 
ton could not be forgiven ; but the 
youthful orator was listened to with re- 
spectful deference by that crowd which 
already recognised the genius and fei-- 
vor of Alexander Hamilton. 

A detailed account of all the important 
exploits in which Sears was either the 
leader, or bore a distinguished part, would 
far exceed our prescribed limits. He 
was elected to the New York provin- 
cial congress, which met in October, 
1765 ; and was the first person who 
made a motion to erect fortifications on 
the island. They were projected on a 
comprehensive scale. With an intelli- 
gent eye, he embraced the extensive lo- 
calities to be defended, and detected 
their vulnerable points. He also acted 
a conspicuous part in the excitement oc- 
casioned by the Boston port bill ; and 
was warmly recommended by General 
Washington to Major General Lee, for 
his zeal and fidelity.* 

• The following letter from General Washington, 
dated Cambridge, February 26, 1776, to his aid-de- 
camp and secretary. General Jo.?eph Reed, will be 
read with interest :-- 

" You must know, my dear sir, that Colonel Sears 



200 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 



Owing, probably, to his exclusive at- 
tention to politics, he lost his entire capi- 
tal, a few years after the close of the 
war. He had freely expended his 
wealth, and the best portion of his life, 
in the service of his country, from 1765 
to the successful termination of the rev- 
olutionary struggle. The knowledge 
of facts like these diminishes the won- 
der which has sometimes been expres- 
sed, that America should have success- 
fully contended with Great Britain. Her 
physical strength was comparatively 
weak ; but the moral courage of her 
early patriots was to her instead of num- 
bers, of wealth, or of fortifications. 

We close this imperfect sketch with 
a short extract from the journals of Ma- 
jor Samuel Shaw, of Boston, the first 
American consul at Canton,* being the 
only authentic account we have of the 
last days of this brave man : — 

" Toward the close of November, 
1785, proposals were made to me by 
Colonel Isaac Sears, and other gentle- 
men in New York, to take a concern 
with them in a voyage to Canton, with 
Mr. Sears to superintend the business. 
A suitable cargo having been provided, 
we sailed from New York, on the 4th of 
February, 1786, bound to Batavia and 
Canton. * * * On the 4th of July we 
anchored in the road of Batavia. Hav- 
ing transacted our business there, we 
left for Canton on the 23d of the same 
month, — Ml-. Sears and the captain be- 
ing confined to their beds with a fever, 

was here, with some other gentlemen from Connec- 
ticut, when the intelligence of Clinton's embarkation 
came to hand. * ♦ ' \\'hat, then, was to be done ? 
Why, Col. Sears and the other gentlemen assured 
me, that if the necessity of the ca.se was signified by 
me. and that Gen Lee should be sent, one thousand 
volunteers (requiring no pay, but supplied with pro- 
visions only) would march immediately to New York, 
and defend the place until congress should deter- 
mine what should be done ; ahd that a line from me 
to Governor Trumbull would facilitate the measure." 
"Bo.'iton: published by Crosby and Nichols, 1847, 
a valuable contribution to oar revolutionary histoiy. 



which had attacked them two days be- 
fore. * * * We arrived at Canton on the 
10th of August, Mr. Sears still remain- 
ing very sick. After remaining there 
three days, he began to recover slowly ; 
and at one period he had so far got the 
better of his disorder as to leave the 
vessel, and pass two days with us at the 
factory ; when, finding the air did not 
agree with him, he returned on board 
ship. There, at first, he continued to 
gain strength daily ; but in a short time 
after he relapsed, and a flux setting in 
with his fever, the disease ba filed the 
efforts of medicine, and carried him off 
on the 28th of October, in the fifty-sev- 
enth year of his age. His remains were 
interred the next day, on French island, 
with the usual solemnities ; and previ- 
ous to our ship leaving Whampoa, a tomb 
was erected over him, and a suitable in- 
scription placed upon it. To give his 
character in a few words : he was an 
honest man, an agreeable acquaintance, 
and a warm friend." pp. 219 and 227. 

DuNLAP, in his useful history, has done 
much to perpetuate the names of many 
of the Sons of Liberty. He speaks 
of Sears, M'Dougall, and Willett, as 
composing the most efficient and deter- 
mined committees, from 1765 to the 
breaking out of the war, and who were 
in active correspondence with the patri- 
ots of the other colonies, and aided by 
their labors to keep up the ardor of 
opposition to the encroachments of the 
ministry. It is matter of much regret, 
that more ample materials do not re- 
main to do justice to these and others 
of the fraternity. 

It may safely be said, that wherever 
danger was to be encountered, or re- 
sponsibility to be incurred, Isaac Sears 
was to be found ; and with him was in- 
dissolubly associated his eflScient coad- 
jutor, John Lamb. These were em- 
phatically the tribunes of the people. 



4^a^a^ 




Facsimile of the Signature of Isaac Sears. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



201 




''^^'t-Ja^'''^ 



,J^^ 



The situation of this state is in 
some respects quite peculiar. It 
is long and narrow, and lies be- 
tween two of the largest and most 
important states in -the Union. 
While, on the one hand, its terri- 
tory is thus rendered highly im- 
portant, as the only direct thor- 
oughfare between them, on the 
other, strong influences oppose 
the existence of a single, united 
spirit among the people. The 
Hudson and New York city at- 
tract the business of East Jersey, 
as the Delaware and Philadelphia 
do that of West Jersey. 
In several respects, however, this state has points of interest equal to any of 
her sisters of the Union, which will be in some measure exhibited, even in the 
few pages which we have to devote to the following description. 

New Jersey possesses a considerable variety of climate, for a country of so 
small a surface, as its length is two or three times greater than its breadth, and it 
stretches directly north and south, while thei'e is a considerable difference of ele- 
vation between the low, sandy regions in the southern parts, and the hilly and 
almost mountainous northern counties. Much of the former district also lies near 
the sea, while the latter is removed to a distance from it. 

The Allegany range, ci'ossing the northwestern parts, gives them the character 
just alluded to ; and, while it affects the soil and vegetable productions, yields 
rich mineral products, several mines of copper and iron being wrought — the lat- 
ter to much advantage. The propoi'tion of good land is not large, as the " piny 
woods" in the south too nearly resemble the " pine ban-ens" of the southern At- 
lantic boi'der, of which they appear to be the beginning; while through the ele- 
vated districts are considerable tracts inconvenient of access, or incapable of 
cultivation. The railroads and canals, however, which cross the state in several 
places, afford important facilities for transportation as well as for travelling. 



202 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



History. — Henry Hudson entered 
Delaware bay on the 28th of August, 
1609, and made an attempt to penetrate 
by it into the continent, a short time be- 
fore he discovered the harbor of New 
York (namely, September 3), and the 
river which bears his name. The first 
settlements made by Europeans on the 
soil of this state were but a little subse- 
quent to the first occupation of Manhat- 
tan island. The first Dutch vessel came 
out to trade in the Hudson in 1610, and 
the fort was erected at the Battery in 
1614. In the latter year a redoubt ap- 
pears to have been thrown up on the 
Jersey shore. About the year 1618, a 
colony of Danes or Norwegians, who 
had come out with the Dutch, made a 
settlement at Bergen, opposite New 
York. The first settlement in West Jer- 
sey is believed to have been made in 
1623, by Cornelius Jacobse Mey, whose 
name is commemorated in Cape May. 
He proceeded up Delaware bay to 
Timber creek, a little above Camden, 
where he built Fort Nassau. He sailed 
in the employment of the Dutch West 
India company, which had been formed 
in 1621. Individuals obtained charters 
from that association, to large tracts of 
land, subject only to the Indian claim, 
one of which, opposite New York, ex- 
tended thirty-two miles by two. One 
man thus obtained a tract sixteen miles 
square, at Cape May, bought of nine In- 
dian chiefs. Some of these great land- 
holders associated, and sent out David 
Petersen de Vries in a ship, to make a 
settlement on the Delaware, in 1630. 
He found Fort Nassau in the possession 
of the Indians, and no traces of its for- 
mer occupants. He built another fort, 
and left it to return to Holland ; but the 
garrison were soon massacred to a roan. 
After another unsuccessful attempt to 
plant a colony, the treachery of the na- 
tives discouraged the company, and the 
enterprise was abandoned. 

In 1637, two Swedish vessels arrived 
in the Delaware, and settlements were 
commenced on the western side, but 
lands were occupied only on the eastern. 
In 1642, Printz Hall came over as gov- 
ernor, under the appointment of the 
queen of Sweden, and established his 



residence on Tinnicum island, building 
a fort, laying out a garden, and erecting 
a church and several houses. Among 
his companions were John Campanius 
Holm, afterward the historian of the 
colony, and an engineer named Lind- 
strom, who published a map of the Del- 
aware and its borders. There has been 
much doubt respecting the grounds on 
which the Swedes rested their claim to 
this part of the country ; and they soon 
found it contested by the Dutch, who, 
having reoccupied Fort Nassau and sev- 
eral other points, were called upon to 
surrender them, and, on their refusal, 
compelled to submit by force. Govern- 
or Stuyvesant, of New York, soon in- 
terfered, and regained the Dutch posi- 
tions, and easily reduced the Swedish 
posts, finally capturing the seat of gov- 
ernment at Tinnicum island. This blow 
terminated the Swedish power on the 
Delaware, called by them New Sweden. 

In 1640, a number of English colo- 
nists arrived from New Haven, claiming 
a right to occupy the soil under British 
authority ; and thus the foundation was 
laid of disputes, which from time to time 
caused considerable difficulty. The tra- 
dinghouse which they erected was de- 
stroyed in one case ; and in others their 
goods were confiscated, and some of the 
men imprisoned. The British and the 
Dutch governments had some warm al- 
tercations on the question of right to this 
part of the country. It is reported that 
some of the descendants of the early 
New Haven colonists still re.Tiain in Sa- 
lem, Cumberland, and Cape May. 

The year 1664 was the epoch of the 
reduction of the New Netherlands (now 
New York), by Colonel Nichols, at the 
command of Charles II. Sir Robert 
Carr soon after obtained possession of 
the posts and colonies on the Delaware, 
having entered the bay with two frig- 
ates, and expended "two barrels of gun- 
powder and twenty shot." The same 
year, Charles, by a royal patent, con- 
ferred it upon the Duke of York; and 
he conveyed a large tract, named "Nova 
Caesarea" (New Jersey), to Lord Berke- 
ley and Sir George Carteret. The name 
then bestowed, and which is still retain- 
ed, is said to have been chosen in com- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



203 



pliment to Carteret, because he had de- 
fended the island of Jersey against the 
"long parliament" in the civil wars. 

Berkeley and Carteret conferred a 
constitution on the colony, securing to 
all equal rights and privileges, including 
liberty of conscience ; and the latter was 
appointed governor, and took up his 
residence at Elizabethtown, in 1665. 
Having purchased land from the Indi- 
ans, he sent an invitation to Connecticut 
for settlers, on such favorable terms that 
many accepted it, and the population of 
the colony rapidly increased. 

But in 1672, difficulties, which had 
arisen between some of the older set- 
tlers and the proprietors, proceeded so 
far that an insurrection broke out, in 
consequence of the demand of the latter 
of rents for lands purchased by the for- 
mer before the date of the charter of 
King Charles. The result was, that the 
governor was driven from the colony ; 
and he repaired to England for redress, 
while his officers were resisted, deposed, 
and imprisoned by the people. 

The New Netherlands being recov- 
ered, in 1673, by the Dutch, New Jer- 
sey passed with her again under her for- 
mer proprietor. But this change was 
followed, the next spring, by a more 
permanent arrangement by treaty, in 
consequence of which the English were 
restored to the possession. The duke 
of York, to pi-event any exposure of his 
title to question, on account of the in- 
tervention of the late Dutch conquest, 
procured a new patent ; and, in 1664, 
Sir Edmund Andross arrived, with the 
authority of governor of the province 
of New York, claiming jurisdiction over 
New Jersey also, under pretence that 
the proprietors had lost their property 
by the Dutch conquest. This ai'bitrary 
man, whose injustice and oppression 
caused so much evil in New England, 
gave place to Philip Carteret, in 1675, 
who resumed the government of East 
Jersey, and so conciliated the colonists 
that order was restored. He postponed 
the demand of the payment of quiti'ents, 
but, on the other hand, in a list of "con- 
cessions" which he published, he laid 
some restrictions on political freedom. 
He attempted to open a trade with New 



England ; but Andross, still governor 
of New York, opposed him, pretending 
that it would injure his colony. At 
length Andross sent to Elizabethtown, 
to seize Cai-teret and take him to New 
York. 

Lord Berkeley about this time offered 
his share of the province for sale, as its 
prospects were not flattering; and it was 
conveyed to John Fenwick, in trust for 
Edward Byllinge, members of the soci- 
ety of friends, for one thousand pounds. 
The part sold was afterward called West 
Jersey, a designation often used at the 
present day. In 1675, the first English 
vessel arrived in the Delaware which 
ever visited West Jersey, and it brought 
over Fenwick and his two daughters, 
with a number of servants, and a com- 
pany of settlers. He selected a pleas- 
ant and fertile spot, which he named 
Salem, and there planted his colony. 
The following are the names of some 
of the colonists : Edward Champness, 
Edward Wade, Samuel Wade, John 
Smith and his wife, Samuel Nichols, 
Richard Guy, Richard Noble, Richard 
Hancock, John Pledger, Hippolite Le- 
fevre, and John Matlock. These men, 
and others whose names are not given, 
were heads of families. It was two 
years, however, before another ship ar- 
rived, probably in consequence of a dif- 
ference which arose between Fenwick 
and Byllinge. Byllinge was sharer to 
much the greater amount, having ninety 
out of a hundred shares, while Fenwick 
had but ten. Byllinge, however, failed 
in his business, which was that of a mer- 
chant ; and the management of his prop- 
erty here was intrusted to William Penn, 
and his quaker friends, Govven and Lu- 
cas, by whom much of it was sold to 
different purchasers. These proprietors 
published a plan of government, under 
the name of " concessions," by which 
"the proprietors, freeholders, and inhab- 
itants of each of the ten proprieties, 
were authorized to meet annually, and 
choose by ballot one man each, to act as 
commissioners." A deed was then made 
between Sir George Carteret and the 
trustees of Byllinge, dated July 1, 1676, 
fixing the boundary-lines as follows : 
" We have all that side on the Delaware 



204 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



river, from one end to the other : the 
line of partition is on the east side of 
Little Eggharbor, straight north, through 
the country, to the utmost branch of 
Delaware river, with all powers, priv- 
ileges, and immunities, whatsoever. 
Ours is called New West Jersey ; yours 
is called New East Jersey.'' 

Two companies of London and York- 
shire friends were among the purchasers 
of lands in New West Jersey ; and, in 
1677, commissioners came out to pur- 
chase land of the Indians, &c. The 
ship in which they came out ai-rived at 
New Castle on the 16th day of the 6th 
month, old style, bringing also two hun- 
dred and thirty passengers as colonists. 
They were glad, for a time^ to land at 
Rackoon creek, and take up with such 
poor accommodations as they could find 
in the houses and cowsheds of the few 
Swedes whom they found occupying tlie 
spot, and found snakes numerous, creep- 
ing about the buildings. After making 
purchases of the Indians, who were nu- 
merous, the settlement of Burlington 
was commenced, and first called New 
Beverley, and afterward Bridlington ; 
soon after which it received its present 
name. The following are some of the 
masters of families who formed this set- 
tlement : Thomas Olive, Daniel Wills, 
William Peachy, William Clayton, John 
Crips, Thomas Eves, Thomas Harding, 
Tliomas Nositer, Thomas Fairnsworth, 
Morgan Drewit, William Renton, Hen- 
ry Jenings, William Hibes, Samuel 
Lovett, John Woolston, William Wood- 
mancy, and Christopher Saunders ; Rob- 
ert Povvell, William Wilkinson, and Wil- 
liam Perkins, died on the passage, but 
left families. 

In 1679, George Carteret died, and, 
according to his will. East Jersey was 
sold, to pay his debts. The indenture 
of lease and release is dated February 
1 and 2, 1681-'82, and conveys the 
property to William Penn and eleven 
others, who, in the following year, pub- 
lished a description of the country, with 
a plan of a town. These men were 
called the " twelve proprietors." Each 
of these took a partner; and to these 
" twenty-four proprietors" the duke of 
York made a new grant of East New 



Jersey, on the 14th of March, 1682 ; at 
which time about seven hundred fami- 
lies were supposed to be residing in that 
pai't of the country. 

A brief notice of important epochs is 
all we have room to give after this pe- 
riod. In 1702, in consequence of pro- 
longed disputes and difficulties, the pro- 
prietors resigned the government of the 
colonies to Queen Anne, who, on the 
17th of April, 1702, accepted the offer, 
and reunited the East and West into one 
province, appointing her kinsman, Ed- 
ward Hyde (Lord Cornbury), the gov- 
ernor. He was grandson of the chan- 
cellor. Earl of Clarendon. The com- 
mission and instructions then given him 
remained as the constitution of New 
Jersey until the Revolution. The gov- 
ernor and twelve councillors were ap- 
pointed by the crown ; and twenty-four 
members of assembly, elected by the 
people for an indefinite term, met at 
Burlington and Perth Amboy alternate- 
ly. Among these instructions was one 
allowing liberty of conscience to all, ex- 
cept papists, and one prohibiting print- 
ing in the colony. 

In 1702, the period when New Jersey 
became a colony of the crown, the pop- 
ulation was estimated at twenty thou- 
sand ; of which twelve thousand were 
set down for East, and eight thousand 
for West Jersey. Lord Combury was 
kept in prison, for debt, from 1703 till 
the death of his father, when he was 
raised to the peerage, and was released 
by law. He is said to have been more 
detested by the people than any other 
governor the province had ever had. 
Grovernor Lovelace, Lieut. Governor In- 
goldsby, and Governor Hunter, were in 
turn at the head of the colony ; under 
the second of whom paper-currency was 
first introduced into New Jersey, with 
its long train of evils. One of the pre- 
texts for it was to raise funds for an 
expedition against Canada. William 
Burnet, son of the celebrated Bishop 
Burnet, was appointed governor in 
1710, and held the office ten years, and 
afterward was governor of New York 
and New Jersey until 1727. The last 
of the royal governors was William 
Franklin, son of the celebrated Benja- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY, 



205 



mill. He entered upon his office in 1763, 
the epoch signalized by the treaty by 
which France ceded Canada to Grreat 
Britain, and thus terminated tlie harass- 
ing wars which for half a century had 
caused great evil to the colonies. New 
Jersey contributed liberally to the expe- 
ditions inarched against Canada in 1758, 
1759, and 1760 ; for, although her quota 
was but five hundred men, she raised 
and supported a thousand, and, in 1761, 
and 1762, six hundred men, and incurred 
a debt of forty thousand pounds. 

As the Revolution approached. New 
Jersey was among the foremost oppo- 
sers of British oppression. In July, 
1774, the people of the different coun- 
ties held meetings to express their con- 
demnation of the closing of the port of 
Boston, (Sec, &c. Delegates went to the 
congress in Philadelphia, who reported 
to the assembly, on the 11th of January, 
1775. 

The governor, however, who was op- 
posed to resistance, endeavored to de- 
feat the wishes of the people and legis- 
lature, particularly by refusing to con- 
voke the latter. The delegates were, 
therefore, appointed by a convention. 
On the 23d of May, 1775, the second 
convention assembled at Trenton, and 
laid a tax of ten thousand pounds, to 
support a company or more, which it 
ordered to be raised in each of the town- 
ships and corporations. This was con- 
firmed by the provincial congress, which 
met in August following, and directed 
the organization of fifty-four companies, 
of sixty-four minute-men each. Ten 
battalions were accordingly formed: 
one in each of the counties of Bergen, 
Essex, Middlesex, Monmouth, Somer- 
set, Morris, Sussex, Hunterdon, and 
Burlington, and one in Gloucester and 
Salem together. Independent light-in- 
fantry and rangers were raised in Cum- 
berland and Cape May. 

At the same meeting, a resolution was 
adopted which rendered the people and 
their representatives less dependent on 
the will of the governor. It provided 
that, during the controversy with the 
mother-country, the voters should annu- 
ally meet and choose deputies to the 
provincial congress ; and this body was 



invested with the powers of govern- 
ment. In vain the governor made an- 
other effort at resistance. He held one 
more meeting of the legislature ; but it 
was the last. They would not consent 
to declare that they had no intentions to 
proclaim independence. The body was 
prorogued till January, 3, 1776 ; but it 
never met again. 

The provincial congress assembled 
again on the 10th of June ; and, on the 
iSth of July, a few days after the dec- 
laration of independence at Philadel- 
phia, New Jersey assumed the title of a 
state. The seal which was then adopted 
and made is still in use, though much 
worn. A copy of parts of it is under 
the vignette at the head of this descrip- 
tion. The head of a horse over a globe 
is supported by figures of Liberty and 
Ceres, while three ploughs are placed 
between them, and the followinsf lesrend 
surrounds the whole : " The great seal 
of the state of New Jersey : mdcclxxvi." 
It is made of silver, two and a half inch- 
es long, and three eighths in thickness. 

On the 25th of June, Governor Frank- 
lin was made prisoner, by the command 
of the provincial congress, as an enemy 
to the liberties of the country, and sent 
to Connecticut, under a guard, to be kept 
under the charge of Governor Trumbull, 
who placed him, with several other ad- 
vocates of British authority, in Middle- 
town. AVhen released, after a consid- 
erable time, he went to England, where 
he enjoyed a pension. 

William Livingston was appointed 
governor of New Jersey, by the new 
legislature, on the 31st of August; and 
he was annually re-elected for fourteen 
years. And now commenced the long 
course of trials which the Revolution 
brought in its train, and in which this 
state suffered most severely. Her pe- 
culiar situation, which renders it, during 
peace, the thoroughfare of important 
commerce and travel, exposed her, in 
the war, to ihe passage and the occupa- 
tion of armies, and as the theatre of 
incursions. The navigable waters on 
her boundaries, so convenient and safe 
to the hundreds of merchant-ships and 
steamboats, by which they are crowded 
in our day, then gave too easy access to 



206 DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



the enemy's fleets and squadrons. Her 
plains, now covered with fields and vil- 
lages, churches, schoolhouses, and coun- 
try-seats, and crossed by canals and rail- 
roads, which science has marked out, 
and which industry employs, were then 
traversed by armed Hoops, and often 
stained with blood. On the heights 
where the husbandman or the citizen 
comes to erect his rural residence, are 
often found traces of entrenchments, 
thrown up at the command of Lord 
Howe or of General Washington. In 
the following pages will be found brief 
notices of some of the principal military 
movements and events which took place 
in the course of the war. 

New Jersey has the honor of being a 
very early and decided advocate of tem- 
perance; the value of which our coun- 
try has been solemnly taught by a long 
course of bitter experience. The mod- 
ern practice of opposing intemperance 
by association is extensively adopted in 
this state. 

The first laws of the colony imposed 
fines of a shilling and two shillings 
and sixpence for what they denominate 
"the beastly vice, drunkenness;" and, 
in 1682, the sum was raised to five shil- 
lings, and sitting in the stocks for six 
hours was substituted when that was 
not paid. Liquors, however, were then 
allowed to be sold in small quantities, 
though at first they were not. In 1688, 
an " ordinary," or tavern, was required 
by law to be kept in each town ; but the 
keepers were restricted in the sale of 
liquoi's to quantities not less than two 
gallons. In 1677, they were allowed to 
sell by the gallon, and, in 1683, by the 
quart. 

The decent observance of the Lord's 
day was required by law. Swearing was 
fined one shilling in 1668, and, in 1682, 
two shillings and sixpence for each oath. 
If the fine was not paid, the culprit was 
put into the stocks, if under twelve years 
of age, or whipped, if above that age. 
" All prizes, stage-plays, revels, games, 
masques, bull-baitings, and cock-fight- 
ings, which excite the people to wicked- 
ness, cruelty, looseness, and irreligion," 
were to be discouraged and punished by 
courts of justice; and nightwalkers and 



revellers were to be imprisoned till 
morning, examined, and, if necessary, 
bound over to appear in court. From 
1675 to 1682, "the resistance of lawful 
authority by word or action, or the ex- 
pression of disrespectful language refer- 
ring to those in office," was punishable. 
In 1676, all liars were added to the list, 
with a fine of twenty shillings for the 
second offence. 

The first day of public thanksgiving 
was appointed by the general assembly 
on Wednesday, November 2, 1676 ; the 
second, on 'account of the discovery of 
the gunpowder plot, November 26, 1679; 
the third, June 11, 1696, for the defeat 
of the plot against King William. 

Slavei-y was introduced in the earliest 
days. The " concessions," in the time 
of Carteret, offered to every colonist one 
hundred and fifty acres of land ; and, 
" for each weaker servant or slave," 
seventy-five acres. But few, if any, 
slaves were then brought into the colo- 
ny. At a subsequent period, however, 
they were imported in great numbers; 
and barracks were erected, as tradition 
relates, at Pei'th Amboy, to j'eceive ne- 
groes from slave-ships. In 1734. an 
alarming negro-i'ising occurred on the 
Raritan, the object of which was to ob- 
tain liberty by massacring the whites, and 
joining the Indians and French. From 
allusions made in some of the old news- 
papers, it appears that negroes were 
sometimes burnt alive for certain offen- 
ces. In 1750, two negroes were pun- 
ished in this manner, for the murder of 
their mistress, and all the blacks in the 
neighborhood were required to be pres- 
ent. The law under which this horrible 
punishment was inflicted was passed in 
1714, and provided for capital punish- 
ment for murder, &c., "in such manner 
as the aggravation or enormity of their 
crimes shall merit and require." The 
mode of trial was changed in 1768, but 
the manner of death was not fixed. In 
1778, an insurrection was apprehended. 

Early attempts were made at the 
whale-fishery on the coast ; but De Vries 
said it was unprofitable in 1633. 

Roads and other channels of commu- 
nication, for which New Jersey is now 
so remarkable, were commenced under 



the direction of the celonial legislature, 
in 1676. The first roads were those 
used by the Dutch, in going from New 
York to their settlements on tht; Dela- 
ware, and were horse-tracks. The up- 
per road extended from Elizabethtown 
point, or near it, to New Brunswick, 
probably the route now called " the old 
road," crossing the Delaware, by fording, 
a little above Trenton. The lower left 
the upper five or six miles from the Rar- 
itan, and extended to Burlington. In 
1695, the innkeepers at Elizabethtown, 
Piscataway, and Woodbridge, were 
taxed to keep this road in repair ; but 
only ten pounds were expended upon it 
annually. In 1744, stage-wagons ran 
twice a week between New Brunswick 
and Trenton. In 1750, a stage-boat be- 
gan to sail from New Yoi'k, once a week, 
for Amboy, and a wagon left the latter 
place the next day for Philadelphia. 
The next year an opposition boat was 
advertised, with " a fine, commodious 
cabin, fitted up with a tea-table," &c., 
to run twice a week. In 1756, a stage- 
line began to run between Philadelphia 
and New York, in three days, through 
Trenton and Amboy. 

The first newspaper in the colony was 
the " New Jersey Gazette," begun De- 
cember 5, 1777, at Burlington, by Isaac 
Collins, which cost twenty-six shillings 
a-yeai". The sheet was only twelve by 
eight inches ; and the paper ceased to 
appear in 1786. The second monthly 
magazine in the whole country was 
" The American Magazine," published 
at Burlington, which began in 1758, and 
expired at the end of two years. Each 
number contained about forty pages oc- 
tavo, and the matter was very respecta- 
ble. The printer of this work was James 
Parker, son of Samuel Parker, of Wood- 
bridge. He was apprenticed to William 
Bradford, the first printer in New York, 
in 1725, and was advertised by him as 
a runaway in 1733. But nine years af- 
ter he was at the head of a respectable 
establishment : and he must have be- 
come reconciled to his old master, for 
he noticed his death, in 1752, in a very 
respectful printed article. He brought 
the first printing-press into New Jersey, 
in 1751, and printed public documents. 



Trenton, the capital of the state, is 
pleasantly situated at the falls or rapids 
of the Delaware, and the mouth of As- 
sunpink creek, in forty degrees and thir- 
teen minutes north latitude, and two de- 
grees and sixteen minutes east longitude 
from Washington. It is fifty-five miles 
southwest from New York, thirty miles 
northeast from Philadelphia, and ten 
miles southwest from Princeton. The 
population, in 1850, was 6,766, or, in- 
cluding the borough of South Trenton, 
moi*e than 9,000. 

The Statehouse stands on the elevated 
bank of the Delaware, in the north part 
of the city, commanding a pleasing view 
down a green slope to the level borders 
of the stream, which here is shallow. 
The building is of stone, jilastered, and 
is one hundred feet long, sixty wide, and 
contains halls for the two houses of the 
legislature, offices, conmittee-rooms, 
&c. There is a spacious yard around 
it, which sets off the building to advan- 
tage. 

The city contains, ahio, the lyceum, 
the city-hall, and seven churches ; and 
the stateprison is at a short distance. 

The bridge is of wood, eleven hun- 
dred feet long, with five arches resting 
on four piers and two abutments. It 
was commenced in 1804, and constructed 
by Mr. Burr, on whose skill it reflects 
much honor, as it has lasted nearly half 
a century, and was passed uninjured by 
the flood of 1841, which destroyed others 
built long after it. It serves not only 
for the purposes of ordinary vehicles, 
horses, and footmen, but sustains the 
tracks of the Philadelphia and Trenton 
railroad. 

The County Buildings. — These are 
situated in South Trenton. The court- 
house is a neat edifice, with six Ionic 
columns and a cupola. The basement 
is of sandstone, and the steps of granite. 
The offices of the clerk and surrogate 
stand a little in the rear. All are neat- 
ly stuccoed. 

The Stateprison is constructed on a 
singular plan. The front building con- 
tains the residence of the keeper and his 
assistants ; and in the rear are two long 
wings, running back from it, diverging 
from each other at a right-angle, with a 



208 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



passage leading through each, between 
two rows of cells. The whole is sur- 
rounded by a stone- wall, three feet thick, 
and twenty feet high, enclosing a square 
of four acres. Tubes pass through the 
cells to warm them in winter, and flues 
are made in the walls for ventilation. 

The prisoners are kept at work, ma- 
king chairs and shoes, and weaving. By 
judicious management, with cash sales, 
the income has been made to deffay the 
expenses, and even to leave a surplus. 
All communication is prevented, and at- 
tention is paid to the moral improvement 
of the inmates. The prison contains a 
library for their use, of three hundred 
volumes. 

The Battle of Trenton. — This place 
was the scene of one of the most cele- 
brated of Washington's master-strokes. 
He excelled most commanders in stri- 
king an unexpected and successful blow, 
just at the time when it would produce 
the most important effects, by intimida- 
ting his enemies, and encouraging the 
country. 

In December, 1776, the American 
army had long been on the defensive, or 
rather had retired, for fear of the enemy, 
beyond their reach. After the capture 
of New York, in August, Washington, 
with the remains of his army, after un- 
successful attempts to make a stand at 
different points, had been driven across 
New Jersey, and, barely escaping cap- 
ture, retreated into Pennsylvania. To 
many the war seemed already at an end. 
The British troops proceeded to occupy 
the principal points on the great road 
through the state, and three regiments 
of Hessians, under General Rahl, and a 
troop of light-horse, were quartered at 
Trenton. On the evening before Christ- 
mas, December 25th, there was not an 
American soldier on the east side of the 
Delaware, and the stream was loaded 
with floating ice, so that it seemed im- 
passable. The Hessians, in security, 
engaged in their accustomed celebration 
of the night with immoderate drinking; 
and about midnight the camp was in 
such a state as Washington had calcula- 
ted on, at the hour of his premeditated 
assault. A large number of boats, which 
he had collected with all possible secre 



sy, came silently across the river, in 
three divisions, nine miles above, by 
pushing their way, in the best manner 
they could, through the ice. It was 
morning before they reached the town, 
when two bodies of troops fell upon the 
enemy at once, fi-om different quarters, 
pressing immediately toward the middle 
of the town, to prevent the enemy from 
forming. They made no regular stand, 
and some of them attempted to escape 
to Princeton, but were prevented ; when 
the whole body surrendered, amounting 
to twenty-three officers and eighty-six 
men. Only twenty or thirty were killed, 
and eight wounded, including the com- 
mander. On the American side were 
none killed, and only two officers and 
one or two privates wounded. A few 
of the enemy escaped by the Bordentown 
road, which General Ewing was to have 
provided against; but he was imable to 
cross the river. GeneJ'al Cadwallader, 
with the Pennsylvania militia, was like- 
wise unable to take part in the affair, 
as only a small part of his troops could 
be got over. Washington had intended 
to capture the other posts on the Dela- 
ware ; but he thought it prudent to re- 
cross the river the same evening, and 
thus retired to Pennsylvania. 

The Battle of Asstmpink was fought a 
short time after that of Trenton. Wash- 
ington, finding the enemy did not ad- 
vance, again crossed the Delaware, and 
took post on the south bank of Assun- 
pink creek. On the 2d of January, four 
or five thousand British troops marched 
from Princeton to attack him. The en- 
emy made three charges upon the bridge, 
but were repulsed by his cannon, with 
about 1-50 killed. When night came on, 
Washington, knowing his force quite in- 
sufficient, oi'dered the camp-fires to be 
well fed, and drew off his forces with so 
little noise that the enemy did not 
know of their disappearance. Washing- 
ton reached Princeton in the morning, 
which was occupied by a large British 
force. 

Princeton. — This pleasant town is 
distinguished as the seat of the principal 
literary institution in the state, and one 
of the oldest and most respectable in the 
country — the college of New Jersey. 




I \ 



210 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



Hei-e is also the presbyterian seminary. 
The country in the neighborhood is 
agreeably diversified, with a good soil, 
peculiarly favorable to apples. It con- 
tains several churches, academies, and 
schools. There are several handsome 
houses, with gardens and yards arranged 
with taste ; but the college-green, with 
its several buildings, is the principal or- 
nament. In the rear of it, but fronting 
on the street, is Nassau hall, the oldest 
college-building, which has a venerable 
appearauce. It has four low stories, 
chiefly appropriated to the students. 
Before the battle of Princeton, it was 
used for barracks, and the lower story 
for stables, and was defended by a party 
of the British troops, and stood a sharp 
fire from Washington's soldiers. A can- 
non-ball entered the chapel, and tore 
away the head of a picture of King 
George II. The library is a building a 
little west ; and on the east is a building 
devoted to recitation-rooms, the chymi- 
cal laboratory, &c. A little in its rear 
is a new college-building ; and in front, 
near the street, and near both extremi- 
ties of the grounds, are the houses of the 
president and the professors. 

The college was founded in 1742, and 
owed its origin to a division introduced 
into the presbyterian church in the days 
of Whitefield ; from which two synods 
arose — that of New York and that of 
Philadelphia. 

Nassau hall, the principal edifice, was 
built in 1757, and was thus named in 
honor of King William III., on request 
of Governor Belcher, who had presented 
his valuable library, of 474 volumes, to 
the institution, and after whom the trus- 
tees proposed to call it. The building 
was one hundred and seventy-six feet 
long, fifty wide, and four stories high. 
The governor's library suffered much 
from the British and American soldiers, 
who in turn occupied the building; and 
almost all the remaining volumes were 
destroyed by fire, which, March 6, 1802, 
burnt all the edifice except the walls, 
which still remain. 

Elizabethtown, 3n a small stream 
which flows intoStaten island sound, four 
miles from Newark, was named after 
Lady Elizabeth, wife and executrix of 



Lord Carteret. It contains four chui'ch- 
es, a bank, a courthouse, a jail, several 
public and private schools, and about 
3,000 inhabitants. It is situated on low, 
level ground, with a good soil. By steam- 
boat, it has a communication with New 
York several times a day, as well as by 
the New Jersey railroad, which forms an 
important link in the great line of rail- 
roads that now extends along almost 
the whole Atlantic border of the United 
States. Elizabethport, two miles from 
the principal village, is the landing-place 
of the steamboats. 

New Brunswick. — This city, the cap- 
ital of Middlesex county, stands on the 
west side of Raritan river, fourteen miles 
from its mouth, twenty-six miles north- 
east from Trenton, and twenty-nine from 
New York. It lies partly in Franklin, 
and partly in North Brunswick, Albany 
street being the dividing line. Near 
the river the streets are narrow, and the 
ground low ; but on the hill, which rises 
behind, everything is changed for the 
better. Here are a courthouse, jail, and 
eight churches, with near eight thousand 
inhabitants. Steamboats ply daily to 
New York. The New Jersey railroad 
passes through the town ; and the Dela- 
ware and Raritan canal commences here, 
which extends to Bordentown, forty-two 
miles. It is seventy-five feet wide, and 
seven feet deep, allowing sloops to pass 
of from 75 to 100 tons. It is supplied 
by a feeder from the Delaware, twenty- 
three miles long ; including which, the 
cost was $2,500,000. An old bridge, 
now useless, was built across the Rari- 
tan at New Brunswick, in 1811, at an 
expense of S86,6S7. There is another 
for the railroad. 

Rutgers College stands on the high 
ground in the northwestern quarter of 
the town. It was founded in 1770, with 
the name of Queen's college ; but being 
unendowed, it did not go into operation 
until 1781. In 1810, it was connected 
with the general synod of the reformed 
Dutch church, and, in 1825, the building 
was purchased by the synod, and the 
present name was given to the institu- 
tion, in honor of Colonel Rutgers, of 
New York, a libei'al benefactor ; since 
which time it has flourished. 



212 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



Newark, the most populous town in 
the state, is situated on a fine, level tract 
of ground, on the west side of Passaic 
river, nine miles west from New York, 
and forty-nine northeast from Trenton. 
Vessels of one hundred tons come up to 
the wharves ; the New Jersey railroad 
passes through the town, on the way from 
New York to Philadelphia ; and here is 
the commencement of the Morris and 
Essex railroad. The Morris canal pass- 
es through the place, which opens a chan- 
nel of transportation between New York 
and the Delaware river. 

The principal streets are wide, well 
built, and shaded with trees. Two large 
squares, in the middle of the town, add 
much to its beauty. It contains three 
banks, a courthouse, twenty-five church- 
es, an apprentices' and a circulating li- 
brary, a mechanics' association, and, in 
1850, 38,885 inhabitants. The coast- 
ing-trade is considerable, and a whaling 
and sealing company was incorporated 
in 1833. Manufactures of several kinds 
are carried on to a great extent, espe- 
cially in leather, carriages, &c. 

Newark was first settled by a colony 
from Connecticut, in May, 1666, in com- 
pliance with the " concessions" sent to 
New England by Lord Carteret. Cap- 
tain Robert Treat, John Curtis, Jasper 
Crane, and John Treat, having been sent 
from Guilford, Branford, and Milton, in 
that state, and made a favorable report, 
especially in favor of this place, they 
were sent again, and laid out the town, 
with the main streets and squares. Thir- 
ty families, from those towns and New 
Haven, at length arrived ; but the Hack- 
eusack Indians refused to let them land, 
until they had satisfied their demands. 
They soon made a purchase, to the sat- 
isfaction of the wild men, giving them 
one hundred and thirty pounds New 
England currency, twelve Indian blan- 
kets, and twelve guns, for a tract of land 
now including the townships of Spring- 
field, Livingston, Orange, Caldwell, and 
Bloomfield. 

Paterson. — This town, thirteen miles 
north of Newark, and seventeen north- 
west of New York, is situated at the 
falls of the Passaic, at a spot abounding 
in romantic scenes, and peculiarly favor- 



able for manufacturing by water-power. 
The stream makes a perpendicular de- 
scent of seventy feet over a precipice, 
in a sheet of foam, which is partly con- 
cealed by a projecting rock. A deep 
sluice, cut through the hard bank, draws 
oiF the water for the numerous manufac- 
toi'ies below, so that the river is left al- 
most dry in the summer-season. 

The town contains two banks, a phi- 
losophical society, with a library, an 
academy, fourteen churches, and twenty 
two thousand inhabitants. It was cho- 
sen for the site of a great cotton manu- 
facturing place by Alexander Hamilton, 
who, with his associates, were incorpora- 
ted, in 1791, with a capital of a million 
of dollars. The early period at which 
their design was formed testifies to their 
intelligence and foresight, as the inven- 
tions of Arkwright were almost un- 
known in the United States. A board 
of directors was appointed, consisting 
of William Duer, John Dewhurst, Ben- 
jamin Walker, Nicholas Low, Roya-1 
Flint, Elisha Boudinot, John Bayard, 
JohnNeilson, Archibald Meixer, Thom- 
as Lowring, George Lewis, More Fur- 
man, and Archibald M'Comb ; and Wil- 
liam Duer was made the principal ofiicer. 
In 1792, when this spot was selected, 
there were not more than ten houses in 
the place, which was named in honor 
of Governor William Paterson. Major 
L'Enfan was appointed engineer, and 
began to cut the race on a scale unne- 
cessary large and expensive, and resign- 
ed in a short time. He was succeeded 
by Mr. Colt, who adopted a more eco- 
nomical plan ; and the first factory was 
completed in 1794. It was ninety by 
forty feet, and four stories high ; and 
yarn was spun in it that year by water. 
The year preceding, the operation had 
been performed by ox-power. In 1794, 
calico-printing was done, on unbleached 
muslins purchased in New York. The 
society at the same time directed the 
superintendent to plant mulbeny-trees ; 
and, at the proposal of Mr. Colt, a teach- 
er was employed to instruct the work- 
children gratuitously on the sabbath. 
This was, no doubt, the first sabbath- 
school in the state, if not in the LTnion. 
It differed, however, from our common 



214 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NEW JERSEY. 



sabbath-schools, in being taught by a 
hired teacher. In 1796, in consequence 
of losses of money sent to England for 
machinery, the misconduct and igno- 
rance of foreign workmen, and the nov- 
elty of the undertaking, the company 
failed ; a?nd the building was leased, and 
used for spinning candlewick and yarn, 
until it was burnt, in 1807. In 1814, 
Mr. Roswell L. Colt, son of the gentle- 
man above-named, purchased the shares 
and I'evived the company; and the place 
haf long been one of the most flourishing 
manufacturing towns in this country, 
though it suffered a great and unavoida- 
ble interruption after the war of 1812. 
The supply of water is veiy valuable, 
and has been enlarged by a dam, four and 
a half feet high, erected on the top of the 
fall ; and the water is distributed by 
three short canals, at different elevations. 
The Passaic is navigable for sloops ; and 
it not only has good common roads, but 
the Morris canal, and a railroad to Jer- 
sey city. 

Mt>RRisTowN. — This is the capital of 
Morris county, and stands on a fine, ele- 
vated plain, in the midst of a varied and 
picturesque region. It is distant fifty 
miles from Trenton, nineteen from New- 
ark, and twenty-six from New York. 
The streets are wide, straight, and laid 
out at right-angles ; and in the centre of 
the town is a large square, surrounded 
by neat dwellings, and several churches 
and other public buildings. A large and 
splendid hotel here, erected by Mr. Giv- 
ens, was accidentally burnt in 1846. An 
aqueduct, about a mile in length, supplies 
the village with water ; and there are 
sevei'al manufactories at Speedwell, on 
a small stream. The Morris and Essex 
railroad, extending hence to Newark, 
was finished in 1838, and affords impor- 
tant advantages to the town. 

Washington i-etreated to this spot, in 
1777, after the b Mle of Princeton. His i 
headquarters are still pointed out, as well i 
as different points connected with inter- 
esting associations of that important 
period. Several impoi"tant events, and , 
many interesting incidents, occurred in , 
the two seasons when Morristown was i 
the residence of Washington. Hosack, ! 
in his " Life of Clinton," mentions that I 



Washington once visited the Rev. Dr. 
Jones, pastor of the presbyterian church 
in that place, to inquire whether Chris- 
tians of other denominations might be 
admitted to partake of the communion 
at the semi-annual celebration of it by 
his people, which he had understood was 
approaching. The reply was : " Most 
certainly ; ours is not the presbyterian's 
table, general, but the Lord's." The 
general replied : " I am glad of it ; that 
is as it ought to be. I propose to join 
with you on that occasion, though a mem- 
ber of the church of England." 

The Source of the Passaic. — The pic- 
turesque scene represented in the ac- 
companying engraving, is at the head 
of the principal stream of New Jersey, 
on whose banks are situated some of the 
most important towns mentioned in the 
preceding pages, and whose waters form 
the picturesque cascade, and turn the 
busy wheels of Paterson. 

The Passaic rises in Somerset and 
Morris counties, and makes a remarka- 
ble bend round the county of Essex, so 
as to form almost its entire western, 
northern, and eastern boundaries. It 
has several tributaries, the principal of 
which are the Pompton and the Rocka- 
way. The former is formed by the con- 
fluence of the Pequannock and the Ram- 
apo, which rise in New York. Most of 
the regions watered by the Passaic and 
its branches are rough and wild, abound- 
ing in mines, and in forests, which sup- 
ply fuel for reducing them. The failure 
of the latter, however, has been the 
chief cause of the abandonment of some 
of the mines. 

Standing at the source of the Passaic, 
amid the romantic and solitary scenery 
which surrounds him, a spectator may 
reflect with interest on the peculiarities 
of the country through which it flows, 
and the various useful ends to which its 
watei-s are applied, during its short but 
varied course. It is not in vain that it 
has its head at so considerable an eleva- 
tion above the ocean. In its short, but 
busy career, it perfoT'ms an immense 
amount of labor, in turning wheels which 
move a variety of machinery, whose prod- 
ucts are so valuable as to add matorially 
to the wealth of the state. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



215 



' -VT.^,^-,^? ".V=t-^ 




This state, one of the largest of tlie 
original thirteen, lies between New 
York and Virginia, two of the other 
most extensive of that number, with 
Ohio on the west, the most populous 
and flourishing of the younger mem- 
bers of the Union ; while its eastern 
boundary divides it from New Jersey, 
and it adjoins Maryland for a short 
distance on the southeast. Lake Erie 
touches it on the northwest. The Al- 
legany ranges divide it into two parts : 
forming three distinct, though une- 



'•' ;iiiiii'iii'iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!iiD.iiii 

qual sections, counting the mountainous part as the central one. These mount- 
ains deviate considerably from their general line in the interior of Pennsylva- 
nia. They cross the boundary of Virginia with a course nearly northeast, soon 
incline northeasterly, and at length run for some distance eastwardly : then 
stretching again more northwardly, cross the New York line in the usual course, 
northeast. The most easterly ridge enters the slate in York county, and is cut 
through by the Susquehannah, a river which, instead of conforming its direction 
to that of the mountains, crosses the entire range nearly at right-angles. 

The Delaware river, which forms the whole eastern boundary, rises in the 
state of New York. A system of canals forms an important line of navigation 
for boats and arks from the Lehigh river to Philadelj)hia, by which the productive 
coal-mines at Mauch-Chunk send thousands of tons to that city. The Delawr.re 
communicates, also, at different points, with the Delaware and Hudson canal, the 
Morris canal, and the Delaware and Chesapeake canal, and, through the Sc'juyl- 
kill, by the improved navigation of that river, and the great Western canal line, 
to the Ohio. At the same time, the numerous and long lines of railroads, cross- 
ing the country in different directions, meet the Delaware at Philadelphia ; while 



216 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



the navigation of that noble stream by 
steamboats, coasting and foreign vessels, 
adds another very important branch to 
the extensive commerce of the state. 

The Susquehannah, though flowing 
through regions abounding in various 
products, is naturally so much Iji'oken 
by the irregularity of the surface, that it 
was navigable only for boats, and at 
great risk ; and, at the same time, the 
more important agricultural portion of 
the state, west of the mountains, offered 
si'.ing inducements to the opening of a 
Ciiannel of communication between it 
and the commercial capital. The ex- 
ample of New York encouraged the un- 
dertaking ; and Pennsylvania embarked 
more extensively than any other state in 
the construction of canals. Immense 
labors were performed. Railroads were 
in some places connected with them. 
But the first results proved unfavorable, 
and a general depression for a time suc- 
ceeded, so great that the legislature at 
length resorted to a temporary suspen- 
sion of payment ; but arrears are now 
paid, and prospects improving. 

The History of the settlement of 
Pennsylvania, and the early years of its 
colonial existence, have ever been re- 
garded with peculiar interest, on account 
of the professions and chai'acter of the 
people, and especially their founder. 
The earliest European colony was plant- 
ed in this state by Swedes, in 1627, or 
1628, and conquered by the Dutch, from 
New York, in 1655. But the English 
having taken possession, in 1681, Wil- 
liam Penn obtained a grant of land on 
the Delaware, landed at New Castle, 
and entered upon the government of 
about 3,000 inhabitants — Swedes, Eng- 
lish, Dutch, and Finlanders. 

A place called by the Indians Coa- 
quanock, was chosen for the site of a 
city, and named Philadelphia, a name 
corresponding with the pacific principles 
of the society of Friends, of which Penn 
was so distinguished a member. By his 
mild, just, and humane treatment of the 
Indians, he set an example worthy of 
imitation, and gave the poor savages, so 
often mir.understood, abused, and mis- 
represented, opportunities todisplay some 
of the virtues of which they have too 



often been declared to be destitute. A 
characteristic anecdote is told, by tradi- 
tion, of the sagacity and Christian liber- 
ality of William Penn, which forcibly 
illustrates the truth, that the way which 
is right is usually that which is most 
profitable in the end. The Indians once 
came to him with a complaint that they 
had been under some misapprehension 
in the terms of a bargain they had made 
with the white men, who had purchased 
of them a large tract of land. The col- 
onists at the same time represented that 
the bargain, though hard for the Indians, 
was a fair one, and that they were ready 
to fight for it. Penn, however, in con- 
sistency with the principles of the gos- 
pel, which he professed, inquired of the 
Indians how much more they considered 
the land worth than they were to re- 
ceive ; and, on being informed, made 
such an addition of the articles used in 
trade as fully satisfied them, though re- 
ally of trifling value, and thus not only 
prevented immediate bloodshed, and 
other evils attendant on war, but con- 
firmed the grateful wildmen in their pa- 
cific spirit and friendly attachment to the 
colonists, most favorable to the perma- 
nency of a good understanding and free 
trade for the fixture. 

The relations between Pennsylvania 
and Connecticut were disturbed for a 
number of years, after the settlement of 
a colony from the latter in the valley of 
Wyoming, which was claimed under the 
patent of King Charles, as it lay in her 
territory, as marked out by the two 
parallels extending to the South sea. 
The encroachments of the French in 
the west, on the Ohio river, threatened 
Pennsylvania, as well as Virginia ; but, 
until the Revolutionary war, her inland 
position, and the obstacles presented by 
her mountains, contributed to secure 
her from most of the trials through which 
many of the other colonies had to pass, 
in the early stages of their history. 
Having no internal enemies, in conse- 
quence of the just and pacific policy 
pursued by Penn, nhe hod little to dis- 
turb the peaceful lives of her inhabit- 
ants, until the Revolutionaiy war in- 
volved her in a full share of the public 
suff"erings and losses. Her capital, after 



218 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



serving as the seat of government, sub- 
sequently to the capture of New York, 
was threatened by the enemy, in 1778. A 
strong expedition having been sent from 
New York to the Delaware, succeeded 
in maintaining itself in Pennsylvania for 
a time : after several battles, Washington 
retreating to Valley Forge. The ene- 
my were, however, ere long, compelled 
to retreat, and evacuate the country on 
the west of the bay and river. 

The " whiskey rebellion," which broke 
out in a part of the state, soon after 
the restoration of peace, kept the coun- 
try for a time in a state of alarm ; but, 
after its suppression, Pennsylvania soon 
began to share with other members of 
the Union, in the career of prosperity 
which has so greatly distinguished our 
country, and has been one of the most 
remarkable of the states for the extent 
and success of its manufactures. Her 
iron-mines and manufactories, with her 
coal-mines, are the grand sources of her 
wealth, although her commerce is con- 
siderable. 

CoAL-MiNES. — Among the natural 
productions of the state of Pennsylvania, 
those of the coal-mines take the most 
important place. On both sides of the 
Alleganies lie extensive and apparently 
inexhaustible beds of excellent coal, ma- 
ny of which are on the immediate banks, 
or near to the sources of streams, which 
have been rendered navigable where the 
aid of art and science have been required ; 
and the immense and increasing sup- 
plies, annually transported, subserve the 
convenience and comfort of millions of 
people, not in this territory alone, but 
in half the states of the Union. Nu- 
merous steamboats and railroad-cars, as 
well as manufactories of different kinds, 
bori'ow their motive-power from these 
mines ; while almost entire towns and 
cities derive from them their vast sup- 
plies of fuel. 

The coals of Pennsylvania are of two 
kinds ; and it is remarkable that, while 
that on the eastern side of the Allega- 
nies is anthracite, that on the west is 
bituminous. The latter has rendered 
Pittsburgh the Birmingham of America. 

Literary Institutions, &c. — Liter- 
ary |)ublicationsandscientific institutions 



were established in Philadelphia in her 
colonial days, chiefly by the labors and 
example of Dr. Franklin, who for a long 
time exercised a great influence on the 
country, and whose fame is universal. 
Massachusetts, however, lays a claim to 
a considerable share of the honor of his 
character and life, as he was a native of 
Boston, and there received his appren- 
ticeship in the art which had so strong 
an influence in directing his practical 
course in life. 

Printing was introduced into the 
bounds of the present state of Pennsyl- 
vania, in 1687, when the first sheet, an 
almanac, was published by William 
Bradford. The fii'st newspaper issued, 
was " The American Weekly Mercury," 
a half-sheet of "post-paper," by Andrew 
Bradford, dated Dec. 22, 1719. There 
was at that time only one other in the 
colonies, viz., at Boston. The second 
was commenced in 1728, and passed, in 
a few months, into the hands of Benja- 
min Franklin. It existed more than a 
century. Several others were published 
in the middle and latter part of the last 
century ; and the first German paper 
appeared at Germantown, in 1739. 
There were not fewer than six maga- 
zines before the Revolution. " The 
American Daily Advertiser" was the first 
daily paper in America, and commenced 
its daily appearance in 1784. " The 
Pittsburgh Gazette," the first newspaper 
in the western part of the state, began 
about 1786. "An imjDerfect list of the 
periodical journals" published in the 
state, between the close of the Revolu- 
tionary war and 1828, given in the Amer- 
ican Almanac for 1835, names thirty-six. 
The number has since greatly increased, 
in every department. 

State-Government. — The goveinor 
is chosen by the people for thi'ee years, 
but cannot hold the office over six years 
in nine. He must be thirty years of age, 
and have resided in the state for seven 
years. The senate consists of thirty- 
three members, elected by the people 
for three years, one third being chosen 
annually. A member must be twenty- 
five years of age, and have resided four 
years in the state, and the last year in 
the district in which he is chosen. The 



220 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



house of representatives consists of one 
hundred members, elected annually by 
the people. A member must be twenty- 
one years of age, have resided in the 
state three years next preceding his 
election, and the last year in the district 
for which he is chosen. 

All judicial officers are elected by 
the people at the regular state elecfion. 
The judges of the supreme court hold 
their offices for fifteen years ; those of 
the court of common pleas hold iheirs 
for ten years ; and the associate judges 
of the court of common pleas hold theirs 
for five years. The secretary of state 
is appointed by the governor, and holds 
office during his pleasure. The treas- 
urer is elected annually by the joint- 
ballot of both houses of the legislature. 
The legislature meets annually at Har- 
risburgh on the first Tuesday in January. 

The Merchants' Magazine, just quo- 
ted, well describes Pennsylvania in the 
following figurative language : — 

" She is, indeed, the keystone state. 
While one arm rests on the Atlantic, 
she lays the other on the Ohio, and her 
hand plays with the waters of the lake. 
Within her hills is stowed the fuel of 
ages ; and iron, the world's civilizer, to 
bind the continent, and insure the sta- 
bility of this great government ; Erie, 
her outlet on the lake, Pittsburgh, the 
head of the eastern branch of the mighty 
valley, and Philadelphia, not only the 
beautiful city of the plain, but destined 
to be the leading city of the north, a city 
worthy so great a state. In her present 
competition, her rivals are east. The 
mass of productions of the forest, agri- 
culture, and the mines, are derived from 
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and 
the ascending trade of the Mississippi 
valley." 

The coal-mines of England, it has 
been remarked by the president of the 
British Statistical society, have yielded 
more profits than were ever derived from 
the gold-mines of Peru ; but, without 
the aid of steam, they would have been 
comparatively worthless. The products 
of the Pennsylvania coal-mines ai'e al- 
ready so great that it would be difficult 
to estimate them ; and such are the an- 
nual increase of the demand, and the 



abilities of the machinery employed in 
mining and transporting, that the pros- 
pects of the business are almost too great 
to be mentioned. Professor Bakewell 
remarks, that the proximity of coal- 
mines and beds of iron ore afford stron<T 
evidence of the provision made by the 
Almighty for the benefit of man. Penn- 
sylvania, says the Merchants' Magazine, 
is the only state which has direct access, 
by watei*, at once to the ocean, the lakes, 
and the Mississippi : we perceive that 
her position justifies high anticipations 
of her future wealth and prosperity. 
The real estate of Pennsylvania, accord- 
ing to the same work, was estimated, in 
1S46, on the best data, at one thousand 
four hundred millions of dollars, and 
the personal property at seven hundred 
millions ; making an aggregate of two 
thousand one hundred millions, or more 
than three times that of New Yoi-k. 
Such an estimate must surprise almost 
every one ; but, to sustain it, the writer 
gives the following statements : "Each 
of the three vast beds of anthracite coal, 
in this state, are about five miles in 
breadth, and sixty-five in length, with 
an area of 325 square miles, or 208,000 
acres ; that is, in all, 975 square miles, 
or 624,000 acres. If the supply of coal 
from anthracite mines, for 1847, is esti- 
mated at 2,800,000 tons, at four dollars 
per ton, which is the average price at 
tide-water, we have an amount of eleven 
millions two hundred thousand dollars. 
Most of the mines are owned by citi- 
zens ; and the balance of trade Avith 
other cities is constantly in favor of 
Philadelphia." 

It is amusing to record some of the 
anecdotes related of the coal-trade in its 
early days. Mr. Chai'les Miner, of 
Wilkesbarre, and Mr. Cist, sent off the 
first ark-load of coal from Mauch Chunk, 
on the 9th of August, 1814. The boat 
soon ran against a rock, which broke a 
hole in it. The men prevented the leak 
from sinking it, by taking off their coats 
and stuffing them into the hole. When 
ac leng*^h the cargf reached Philadel- 
phia, the expenses amounted to fourteen 
dollars a ton. The owners then found 
it necessary to call at houses, black- 
smith-shops, &c., and urge the people 



222 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



to try the coal in their grates and fur- 
naces, and even to hire journeymen to 
give it a fair trial, after publishing hand- 
bills, in English and German, with a 
minute description of the manner of 
kindling and treating it. In 1812, Col. 
George Shockmaker took nine w^agons, 
loaded with coal, from the Schuylkill 
mines to Philadelphia, and succeeded in 
selling two of them. It was with diffi- 
culty that he could persuade any per- 
sons to try the remainder, which he left 
without selling. 

The amount of foreign coal imported 
into the United States, in 18-lG, was 
156,853 tons, worth $378,597 ; which is 
very small, compared with the above 
estimate for the supply of anthracite 
from the mines of Pennsylvania. 

Philadelphia. — This city was ori- 
ginally confined to a point on the west- 
ern bank of the Delaware, five miles 
above its confluence with the Schuylkill, 
and about one hundred from the ocean. 
The river is of sufficient depth for the 
free admission of vessels of the largest 
size ; but the navigation is subject to a 
long interruption, by ice, during the 
winter months. The city now extends 
quite across the broad, level space to the 
Schuylkill, a distance of about two miles, 
while the northern and southern dis- 
tricts, and several adjacent villages, 
having received portions of the increas- 
ing population, now contain, together, a 
large, compact mass of houses, with a 
population inferior to no city in the Uni- 
ted States, except New York. 

Almost without a single exception, 
Philadelphia is laid out on a plan of 
perfect regularity. The streets are per- 
fectly straight, and those running north 
and south are crossed at right-angles by 
those running east and west, at equal 
intervals. The former are distinguished 
by the cardinal numbers — First, Second, 
Third, &c., beginning near the Delaware, 
as far as Independence square, in the 
centre of the city ; and between the 
western limits and that point, by the des- 
ignation of Schuylkill — First, Second, 
Third, &c. The principal cross-streets 
are named after trees, as Walnut, Chest- 
nut, &c., except the central, which is 
Market street, and one or two others. 



These principal streets so far alluded to, 
form fine, large squares, which are sub- 
divided by streets of a second class,,and 
ihferior breadth, of which those running 
east and west bear the names of shrubs 
and inferior plants. 

Philadelphia is distinguished by its 
neatness, as well as uniformity, and con- 
tains many institutions of science, leara- 
ing, and beneficence, as useful as they 
are honorable to the inhabitants. 

Philadelphia is remarkable for a neat 
and pleasing style of building. Hun- 
dreds of houses, of the first class, have 
basements and stejDS of white marble ; 
and the pavements, which are generally 
wide, are carefully washed and swept. 
Great cleanliness prevails through a 
large part of the city, although the sur- 
face of the ground is so flat as to be 
rather unfavorable. Sewers have been 
constructed to a considerable extent, 
and the good habits of the people are 
the chief cause of this important feature 
in their city, which is favored by the 
absence of great thoroughfares, the pas- 
sage of carriages being confined to no 
particular streets. 

Markets. — The principal markets are 
concentrated in Market street, in which 
a long line of buildings, well planned, 
and built for the purpose, extends about 
a mile, and is proverbial for convenience 
and neatness. Abundant supplies of 
the best articles of food are displayed, 
with neatness and in good order, while 
sufficient room is allowed to buyers and 
sellers. For good meat, butter, and 
some other products of the fine agricul- 
tural districts in the neighborhood, 
Philadelphia has long been celebrated. 
South of the city lies an extensive tract 
of fertile meadow-land, where I'ich pas- 
tures and fine gardens abound ; the ben- 
efits of which are enjoyed by the inhab- 
itants. 

The large draught-horses, reared with 
great care by the Dutch farmers, for use 
in their heavy wagons, are seen in great 
numbers. 

The Philadelphia Library is one of 
the earliest, most extensive, and valua- 
ble, in the country, and was founded by 
the exertions of Benjamin Franklin, 
about the year 1727, when a little 



224 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



club of young men was formed by 
Franklin, and used to meet in Pewter- 
Platter alley, for reading and debate, 
and commenced the collection by giving 
their own books. Several of the mem- 
bers afterward became distinguished 
men, particularly Thomas Godfrey, the 
inventor of the mariners' quadrant. 
Fifty new members were added in 1730, 
and, in 1742, Thomas Penn incorporated 
it. The colonial legislature, in 1769, 
comprehended several other libraries 
with it, under an act conferring upon it 
its present name. " This," says Frank- 
lin, "was the mother of all the North 
American subscription libraries, now so 
common." 

The American Philosophical Society, 
opposite the Philadelphia Library, is 
another of the principal institutions of 
the city, which claims Franklin as its 
founder. In 1743, he formed a small 
society for the purpose of pursuing cu- 
rious experiments and inquiries; and, 
after its decline, and that of a second, 
commenced in 1750, the American Phi- 
losophical Society, and the American 
Society for the Diffusion of Useful 
Knowledge. These two societies were 
combined, in 1769, under a common 
title, and Franklin was elected presi- 
dent. Provision was made, by David 
Rittenhouse, to observe the transit of 
Venus. Several subjects of great pub- 
lic importance were early considered by 
this society, which show the science and 
benevolence of the members. 

TJie American Historical Society, 
which has distinguished itself by the 
publication of the writings of their late 
president, Mr. Dupongeau, was formerly 
only a department of the Philosophical 
society. 

TJic Exchani^e is situated at the cor- 
ner of South, Third, and Walnut streets, 
and on the angle formed by the inter- 
section of Dock with Walnut and Third 
streets. It was built in 1833, by the 
merchants and citizens of Philadelphia. 
It is constructed entirely of marble — is 
a rectangular parallelogram in form, 
ninety-five feet front on Third street, by 
one hundred and fifty on Walnut street. 
On Dock street, however, is a semicir- 
cular projection, ornamented from the 



top of the basement story with six beau- 
tiful Corinthian columns ; the capitals 
worked by the best Italian artists. This 
portico is of the height of two stories, 
and communicates with the " exchange- 
room," by means of nine separate win- 
dows, which may be used as doorways. 
A hall passes through the centre of the 
building, from Dock to Third streets, 
and another likewise communicates with 
this from the north side. The basement 
story is fifteen feet in height, is arched 
throughout, and has twelve doorways on 
the Third-street front and flanks. On 
the right or north side of the hall, is the 
postoffice, seventy-four by thirty-six feet, 
and on the left are several insurance 
offices and banks, and the eession-room 
of the chamber of commerce. Two 
flights of stairs, one on each side of the 
hall, ascend to the second floor; at the 
head of these is the entrance to the ex- 
change-room, which is on the east front, 
extending across the whole building, 
and occupying an area of 3,300 super- 
ficial feet. The ceiling, extending to 
the roof, is of the form of a dome, and 
supported by several marble columns. 
Its pannels are ornamented with splen- 
did fresco paintings, representing Com- 
merce, Wealth, Liberty, &c., beautifully 
executed, appearing to have as striking 
a relief as sculptured work. The roof 
of the building is oval, and surmounted 
by a circular lantern that rises forty 
feet. 

TJie CustomTiouse, located in Chestnut 
street, is a splendid edifice of white 
marble, on the plan of the Parthenon of 
Athens, except that the side colonnades 
are wanting. 

The Girard Bank is a marble build- 
ing, with six beautiful Corinthian col- 
umns. A portion of it is represented 
in our engraving of the exchange. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite 
the Girard bank, has two fronts, on 
Second and Dock streets, each with six 
Ionic columns. 

The Statehouse, containing the halls 
of the old Congress, is interestin"- from 
its associations with the important pe- 
riod of the Revolution, and especially 
with its commencement. Independence 
hall, the apartment east of the entrance. 




15 



226 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



is that in which the Declaration of In- 
dependence was adopted and signed, 
and in which Washington was appoint- 
ed commander-in-chief of the army. 

The large square, in the rear of 
that edifice, is shaded by many fine old 
trees ; and Washington square, just be- 
yond it, which was enclosed but a few 
years ago, has several elegant churches 
around it, and many fine houses. But 
the most conspicuous public place is 
Independence square, before named, sit- 
u it^d between Chestnut and Walnut 
st relets. 

Girard College. — This splendid edi- 
fice strikes the eye with admiration from 
a distance, presenting a noble colonnade, 
of white marble, of great size, and the 
elegant proportions of the most celebra- 
ted Grecian models. It has been erect- 
ed with immense sums of money be- 
queathed by the late Stephen Girard, 
long an eminent merchant of Philadel- 
phia, for the education of orphans. The 
peculiar restrictions laid on the execu- 
tion of the will, in several particulars, 
threw embarrassments in the way of the 
speedy execution of the enterprise, and 
the institution has never gone into op- 
eration. 

Schools. — Philadelphia has long been 
supplied with schools, in much greater 
proportion than the state at large, in 
which they were neglected, until 1809, 
and were but little extended or improved 
by the act of the legislature of that year. 
Within a few years past, exertions have 
been made to establish a universal sys- 
tem of common education, anol great 
advances have been made in some parts 
of the state ; but a large proportion of 
the inhabitants being indifferent to the 
claims of education, has presented great 
obstacles to the rapid change so desira- 
ble. The German population, distin- 
guished as they generally are for indus- 
try and frugality, are too much opposed 
to the improvements desired by many 
of their fellow-citizens ; and all attempts 
made to rival the noble example of New 
York and some other states, have been 
disappointed. In Philadelphia, howev- 
er, the public schools have been placed 
upon a very high footing within a few 
years ; and not only the city, but the 



state and the country at large, are likely 
to participate in the advantages of so 
enlightened a measure. 

The practice of humanity and Chris- 
tian philanthropy, which is made so 
prominent a feature in the system of 
the friends, or quakers, has shown its 
influence in various important depart- 
ments. The improvements in prison- 
discipline, which we have noticed at 
some length in the description of New 
York, in which state the plan which now 
prevails in this country, and, to a con- 
siderable extent, in Europe, was first 
brought into operation at Auburn, have 
been partially adopted in this city. Dr. 
Rush, of Philadelphia, however, first 
recommended radical improvements, 
founded on somewhat similar grounds, 
in 1787, at a time when public opinion 
was so unprepared to put them into op- 
eration, and even to appi'eciate them, 
that they were regarded as visionary. 
A prison was erected, in 1790, on a plan 
corresponding with his views, which was 
the first step in the way of improvement. 
The prisoners were treated with more 
humanity, kept clean, and subjected to 
regular hours, labor, and silence, being 
watched day and night. They were 
credited for the products of their labor ; 
and half the excess of the amount, after 
fines and expenses, was paid on the ex- 
piration of the sentence. But several 
grand defects of the old system were 
retained in that prison, which further 
experience condemned. One of the 
principal of these was the common 
rooms, in which numbers of convicts 
spent their time together, by day and 
by night. No vigilance was sufliicient 
to prevent demoralizing intercourse ; 
and reformation — the great object in 
view — was not satisfactorily secured. 
The prison has since been demolished, 
and others have been erected, on differ- 
ent plans, on the northeastern borders 
of the city. 

The Penitentiary, near Fairmount, is 
an immense edifice of granite, with a 
large yard, 650 feet square, surrounded 
by a wall forty feet high. The plan of 
this building is wholly different from 
any before erected. It is designed for 
solitary confinement, in the strictest 



sense of the term. Rows of cells, on 
one level, are arranged in seven long 
lines, radiating from an octagonal build- 
ing in the centre, where a single senti- 
nel is placed to watch and listen, guard- 
ing several hundred convicts. Objec- 
tions have been made to this system, on 
the ground of expense, and the difficulty 
of finding occupation for the prisoners, 
useful to them, or profitable to the insti- 
tution, as well as to the evil effects, 
physical, mental, and moral, sometimes 
resulting from uninterrupted solitude. 
General Lafayette remarked, facetious- 
ly, while on a visit to this prison during 
its construction, that solitary confine- 
ment had been tried on him at Olmutz, 
without changing his character or hab- 
its. 

The House of Refuge, ior ]\i\em\e de- 
linquents, in the same vicinity, is con- 
ducted on the same general plan as other 
similar institutions at New York and 
elsewhere, and with similar beneficial 
results. Vagrant and convicted boys 
and girls are placed there, under the 
charge of keepers and instructors, and 
are trained in good schools and various 
kinds of useful business, and then ap- 
prenticed, chiefly to humane persons in 
distant and retired country situations. 
Some of the boys have been sent to sea; 
and many unfortunate children have 
been rescued from ruin by such humane 
treatment. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital. — This 
noble institution was founded by Dr. 
Thomas Bond, in 1751, aided by Frank- 
lin and others. The grounds are fine, 
and it contains a statue of William 
Penn, with West's celebrated picture 
of Christ healing the sick, presented by 
its author, a native of this state. 

The University of Pennsylvania, on 
Ninth street, has two fine edifices, one 
of which is for the medical department. 
The origin of this institution is traced 
back to 1764, when a subscription was 
opened for an academy and charity- 
school, in which English, mathematics, 
and Latin, were to be taught. It was 
incorporated and endowed in 1753 ; and 
among its pupils was Lindley Murray, 
author of the English grammar. It was 
incorporated as a college in 1755. 



Medical instruction was first given 
by Dr. William Shippen, in 1764, in 
a course of anatomical lectures, to ten 
pupils. Dr. John Morgan was his as- 
sociate the next year — l)oth being grad- 
uates of Edinburgh. Dr. Kahn was 
made professor of botany in 1768, and 
in 17C9 Dr. Bush of chymistry, while 
Dr. Bond was clinical lecturer in the 
Pennsylvania hospital. This medical 
college has now about four hundred stu- 
dents. 

The United States Mint was erected 
in 1830, after one of Mr. Strickland's 
designs. It is entirely of white marble, 
has a front on Chestnut street of 122 
feet, and one on Centre square. The 
whole process of making money, assay- 
ing, refining, and coining the metal, is 
cai'ried on in this building. The mint 
was established in 1790 ; and in 1793, 
they commenced coining in the building 
now occupied by the Apprentices' Li- 
brary company, in Seventh street. Mr. 
R. M. Patterson has been at the head 
of this establishment for several years. 
Since the discoveries of gold in Cali- 
fornia, the amount of coinage has been 
largely increased. 

The Naval Hospital is situated about 
two miles southwest from the centre of 
the city. The expense is defrayed by 
funds contributed by the officers and 
seamen of the United States navy, out 
of their pay. The building is on an 
eminence, commands an extensive view, 
and makes a fine appearance from a dis- 
tance. The front is 386 feet in length, 
three stories high, and it is large enough 
to lodge three or four hundred persons. 
The first story is of granite, and the 
second and third of marble, both of 
which kinds of stone are found in abun- 
dance in the vicinity of Philadelphia. 

The western side of Philadelphia is 
a scene of much bustle and business. 
Several fine bridges cross the Schuyl- 
kill, and the wharves below are landing- 
places for vessels coming fi'om Delaware 
bay and the ocean, for the canal-boats 
of the Schuylkill navigation, and the 
Union canal, which leaves that line at 
Reading for the Susquehannah. Above, 
a fine stone dam crosses fi'om bank to 
bank, and shows the first of the long 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



229 



and expensive series of works which form 
an uninterrupted channel of communica- 
tion between the Schuylkill coal-mines 
and the city. Fairmount, a high, steep 
eminence, rises near the same spot, on 
the top of which are the immense reser- 
voirs for the supply of Philadelphia with 
water, which is raised from above the 
milldam, by five large waterwheeis, and 
allowed to stand for a time in two reser- 
voirs, of the capacity of eleven millions 
of gallons, until it deposites the earthy 
particles. It is then distril)uted through- 
out the city, through pipes more than a 
hundred miles in extent. 

The Wire Suspension- Bridge. — This 
wonderful and beautiful specimen of art 
was erected in 1842, at the expense of 
fifty thousand dollars, by Mr. Charles 
Elliot, for the city and county of Phila- 
delphia. It occupies the site of the 
celebrated Wernwag's wooden-arched 
bridge, the longest in the world (with 
an arch of three hundred and forty feet 
span), burnt down a short time previ- 
ously, and connects the two sides of the 
Schuylkill at a very important point. 

The length, from one abutment to the 
other, is 343 feet, and from one of the 
supporting rollers to the other, at the 
apex of the columns, 357 feet, while the 
breadth, including the floor and the foot- 
ways, is 27 feet. The wire, of which an 
immense quantity was used in the fab- 
ric, is one eighth of an inch in diameter. 
This is formed into five cables for each 
side ; each is constituted of 260 strands, 
two inches and five eighths in diameter, 
weighing four tons, and able to support 
eight hundred tons. Seventeen short 
and smaller cables, hanging from each 
of these, to support the floor-beams, are 
made of smaller wires, and able to sup- 
port two tons each. 

The large cables pass over iron roll- 
ers on the pillars, by which the tension 
is equalized, and are fastened around 
many strong iron bars, transversely im- 
bedded in rocks or masonry. The tow- 
ers are enonnous columns of granite, 
from the state of Maine. The iron was 
quarried at Juniata, and manufactured 
at Easton — all in this state. 

The arched bridge spoken of above, 
the predecessor of the wire-bridge, was 



finished in 1813, at an expense of one 
hundred and twenty thousand dollars, 
and exceeded the largest of all others 
by ninety-six feet in the span. It was 
fifty feet wide at the abutments, and 
thirty-five in the centie, being by this 
form braced against lateral pressure. 

The Permanenf. Bridge was erected, 
at the foot of Market street, by a com- 
pany incorporated in 1798, and cost 
$300,000, including the land. The work 
was a great one, at that early day, when 
no such structure had been undertaken 
in the country; but it was successful. 
Indeed, it might be regarded as an en- 
terprise of magnitude at any period, as 
the depth of the river presented formi- 
dable obstacles to the sinking of piers. 
The western one was founded at a depth 
of forty-one feet below high-water level. 

Fountain Park. — This is not only one 
of the most remarkable situations in the 
country, in point of pictux-esque beauty, 
but also endeared to us by historical as- 
sociations of the most romantic charac- 
ter. Here, by the shore of the Schuyl- 
kill (or Manayone, as it was called by 
the aborigines), occurred some of the 
most desperate fights recorded in the 
annals of Indian warfare. Here, the 
axe of the first settler under Penn awoke 
the echoes of the woods. At the hour 
that the battle of Germantown was ra- 
ging around Chew's house, here, at least 
three miles from that celebrated spot, 
the Hessians were endeavoring to crush 
a band of continentals, inferior in arms 
and discipline, but not in iron courage. 
After twelve bloody onsets, that poured 
from the hill into the valley, the conti- 
nentals drove their enemies across the 
river, at the ford, whose traces ai-e now 
obliterated by the rising of the waters, 
from Fairmount dam. This ford is sit- 
uated on the southern verge of Laurel 
hill, one of the most beautiful spots on 
the globe, whose spires and monuments 
are now visible from the mansion. 

It was here that William Pehn loved 
to wander, contemplating, either in his 
walks on shore, or in his excursions on 
the river, the rise and progress of his 
much-beloved colony. In those wan- 
derings, perchance, he already saw — for 
he was a deep thinker — his colony rise 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



231 



into a state : tliat state one of the great 
nations among thirty independent com- 
monwealths. 

The time is not distinctly marked 
when the original fabric, reared some- 
time in the commencement of the 18th 
century, was succeeded by the present 
beautiful mansion — the production of 
the princely taste aiid spirit of Pennsyl- 
vania's first governor, Thomas Mifflin. 
Yet it is a fact distinctly established, 
that some of the most important councils 
held by Washington during the Revolu- 
tion, took place on this spot. The grass, 
spreading greenly before the porch, has 
been pressed by the feet of a Frank- 
lin, a Volney, a Priestley, a Jefferson, an 
Adams, engaged in careless converse, or 
philosophical discussions. 

The ambassadors of kings have here 
met the republican fathers of America. 
The mind wanders back, through the 
arcades of time, and beholds the rich 
display of contrasts which were exhib- 
ited in the olden time — the handsome 
apparel of counts, dukes, nay, princes, 
contrasted with the plain uniform of 
Morgan, the rifleman, or the modest 
costume of Jefferson, the author of the 
Declaration of Independence. 

When Washington was president, he 
was wont to leave his country residence, 
in Germantown, and stroll by the lake 
northward of the mansion, his imposing 
form reflected in its waves ; or, seated 
on the porch, he would gaze on the 
Schuylkill, thinking over again the tri- 
als and battles of his life, from Brad- 
dock's defeat to the fall of Yorktown. 

These are remarkable associations. 
Among other memories, we must not 
forget that the singular round, or sex- 
agonal tower, that rises a hundred yards 
to the east of the mansion, was once the 
hermitage of religion and the closet of 
eloquence. The celebrated clergyman. 
Dr. Smith, who preached those stirring 
and remarkable sermons during the war, 
built this tower, filled it with his books, 
and here elaborated his most finished 
productions. The doctor was a Scot by 
birth, but an American in feeling. His 
grandson. Richard Penn Smith, now re- 
sides on the ground, and inherits in a 
great degree the genius of his ancestor. 



Perhaps not the least interesting re- 
flection of all is presented in the fact 
that the old mansion, once hallowed by 
the presence of Washington, Lafayette, 
and Wayne — enlivened by the visits of 
noblemen of royal blood, is now the do- 
main of a gentleman whose only herald- 
ry is recorded in his honest rise to for- 
tune and fame, from the walks of toiling 
life into one of the first publishers and 
literateurs of the country. We need 
not refer to Andrew M'Makin, Esq., 
proprietor of the "Courier," whose de- 
lightful family are always ready to ex- 
tend the old-fashioned rites of hospital- 
ity to the stranger, and render a visit 
to Fountain Park (or Aromana, as the 
Indians called it and its lakes) a journey 
of homeborn pleasure. It is rarely that 
literary labor meets with a repose like 
this — much more rarely are its honors 
worn so well, or with such unpretending 
grace. 

Reading, fifty-four miles from Phila- 
delphia, is a place of considerable im- 
portance, and contains some handsome 
public buildings. The Union canal be- 
gins two miles below Reading, passes 
up the western shore of the river to the 
valley of the Tulpehocken, and then fol- 
lows that valley till within five miles of 
Lebanon, where begins the summit-lev- 
el. In all this distance, it rises 311 feet, 
by numerous locks of four and eiglit feet 
lift. The canal is twenty-four feet wide 
at bottom, four deep, and thirty-six on 
the surface. On this part of the canal is 
the tunnel, an excavation bored through 
a hill for a distance of 729 feet, 25 feet 
being first cut away. This dark and 
gloomy passage is eighteen feet in width, 
and fourteen feet high. 

Schuylkill Water-Gap. — This is a 
narrow gorge, through which the river 
runs over a steep and rocky channel, for 
four or five miles, leaving no room upon 
its banks, which rise abruptly on each 
side to the height of several hundred 
feet. The road has been cut out along 
the face of one of these ranges, at a great 
elevation, where the surface is in many 
places of such a declivity as to require 
it to be supported by walls of stone. 
The views which are here afforded to 
the traveller, are romantic and varied in 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA 



233 



a high degree. This interesting scene 
somewhat resembles that on the Dela- 
ware represented in the vignette. 

The Little Schuylkill River, a branch 
of the principal stream, runs through a 
valley of the same general description ; 
and here lies the road to Mount Car- 
bon. 

The Tunnel. — This a place where a 
hill has been bored through 375 yards 
for a canal, about three miles from Or- 
wigsburgh. 

Mount Carbon is near several coal- 
mines. The coal-country in this region 
begins in Luzerne, on the upper part 
of the Lackawana river, following its 
course to the Susquehannah, and along 
that stream, principally on the eastern 
bank, to eighteen miles beyond Wilkes- 
barre. It runs south to the Lehigh river, 
and thence southwest, through Schuyl- 
kill county. It extends about one hun- 
dred miles, and at the middle of the 
range is eight or nine miles wide, but 
narrower toward each end. 

At Mount Carbon the coal occurs in 
beds of four or five feet in thickness, 
running east and west, and dipping to 
the south at forty-five degrees, with a 
slate-rock immediately over it, and strata 
of sandstone and earth above. The slate 
presents the impi'essions of organized 
substances imbedded in it, as the leaves 
of laurel, fern, &c. 

In consequence of the inclination of 
the coal-veins into the earth, the miners 
have, in some places, sunk shafts to the 
depth of one hundred and fifty feet, with 
lateral excavations, east and west, of 
various lengths to three hundred feet. 
Two small carriages, called "trams," 
are used in a sloping shaft to bring the 
coal out, leing made to descend by 
turns ; but in the horizontal one, which 
has been carried in several hundred feet, 
they use wheelbarrows. 

PoTTSViLLE. — This is the capital of 
Schuylkill county, and the centre of the 
coal-business, on the western part of the 
great anthracite region, extending east- 
wai'd to Mauch Chunk. It contains 
nearly eight thousand inhabitants, and 
enjoys a romantic situation in the midst 
of the mountains, whose mineral treas- 
ures, so recently brought to light, em- 



ploy a large population, and create a 
scene of bustle and profitable industry 
all along the course of the stream below, 
and powerfully contribute to the pros- 
perity of many distant manufactories, 
and to the movements of commerce. 

Lehigh Coal-Mines. — The first discov- 
ery of coal at Mauch Chunk is said to 
have been made by a hunter, as late as 
1791. The first indications he noticed 
were bits of anthracite adhering to the 
roots of a fallen tree. A comjiany was 
formed for the purpose of raining it the 
following year, called the Lehigh Coal- 
Mine company, who secured a tract of 
land embracing the present mine, made 
a rough road to it from the river, and 
began to dig the coal, and transport it 
to the stream. But the navigation was 
so difficult that the enterprise failed. 

The im])rovement of the navigation 
of the Lehigh was commenced by the 
legislature of the colony, as early as the 
year 1771. Laws for the same object 
are found in the statute-book of the state, 
under the dates of 1791, 1794, &c. A 
compatiy undertook to clear the chan- 
nel, and, after spending thirty thousand 
dollars, gave up the attempt. Different 
persons, in the meantime, who had ta- 
ken leases from the coal-mine company, 
made unsuccessful exertions to transport 
the coal to Philadelphia ; the last of 
whom, Messrs. Cist, Miner, and Robin- 
son, have been before mentioned. They 
abandoned their attempts in 1815. 

Wonderful as it now appears, the dif- 
ficulty of igniting anthracite coal was 
sufficient to prevent its introduction for 
many years ; and the incredulity of the 
public continued to be too gi-eat to be 
overcome by the exertions made, until 
the year 1818, when two mining compa- 
nies were formed ; and, in 1820, three 
hundred and sixty-five tons were brought 
down, and sold in Philadelphia at eight 
and a half dollars a ton, delivered, which 
fully satisfied the demand. Both com- 
panies were soon formed into one; since 
which its operations, much facilitated by 
great improvements in the navigation, 
have been vast and beneficial. By means 
of dams, the water of the Lehigh, which 
is insufficient for continual use, is stop- 
ped, and occasionally allowed to flow for 



234 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



a short time, floating down at once nu- 
merous rude boats or boxes, called arks, 
laden with coal, from sixteen to eighteen 
feet wide, and twenty to twenty-five in 
length. It was soon found convenient to 
connect two of these, and afterward, 
three, four, and more, so that the tem- 
porary flood might carry them down to- 
gether, without separating them or stri- 
king them against each other, while at 
the same time they would conform to 
the rough suiface of the water, as no 
single vessel of great length could pos- 
sibly do, and might be navigated and 
managed separately at pleasure. Inge- 
nuity devised improvements of other 
kinds also ; for machinery was soon 
brought into use, by which planks were 
joined for an ark, put together, and 
launched, in forty-five minutes, by five 
men. 

A' branch of the Pennsylvania canal 
was finished not long afl;er, along the 
western bank of the Delaware ; and thus 
the only remaining work, necessary to 
a convenient and uninterrupted commu- 
nication between the mines and the city, 
was completed. 

The Delaware and Hudson Canal 
commences at Kingston, on the Hudson 
river, and runs over to the Delaware 
river, through the valley of the Never- 
sink creek, thence up the valley of the 
Delaware to the Lackawaxen creek, and 
up that creek to the foot of the railway. 
This is a continuous canal of 117 miles 
in length. The railway commences at 
the termination of the canal, and runs 
over Moosick mountain to the coal-mines 
at Carbondale, on the Lackawana creek, 
sixteen and a half miles, overcoming an 
elevation of 858 feet. 

At Easton is the dam over the Dela- 
ware, at the termination of the works 
for improving the navigation of Lehigh 
river, from Mauch Chunk to this place. 

Bethlehem is a neatly-built place, in 
a romantic and delightful situation, along 
the course of a swift-running brook. It 
is inhabited by Germans, and is the seat 
of an old Moravian school. 

The works on the Lehigh river are on 
a large scale. The river descends 365 
feet, and requires fifty-two locks and 
twenty-ono dams. The locks are in- 



tended for steamboats capable of carry- 
ing 150 tons of coal, one hundred feet 
long and thirty feet wide. 

The Lehigh water-gap is twenty-five 
miles from Easton, and eleven fiom Le- 
highton, six miles from Mauch Chunk 
The first objects that attract attention, 
near the village of Mauch Chunk, are 
the lock in the river, and the chute, or 
inclined plane, at the end of the railway, 
down which the loaded coal-cars slide 
to the wharf on the river, where tl)ey 
load the boats and arks. The latter 
carry about ten tons. The trains of cars 
coming down the railway will often be 
heard rumbling as the traveller ap- 
proaches the village. 

Mauch Chunk, ninety miles from New 
York, and seventy from Philadelphia, is 
shut in by rude mountains, of such height 
that the sun is invisible to many of the 
inhabitants during the short days. 

The railway leads from near the coal- 
mines to the Lehigh river. This was 
the second ever constructed in the Uni- 
ted States — the Q,uincy railway, in Mas- 
sachusetts, being the first. It extends 
a distance of nine miles, along the side 
of a mountain. 

The coal-mine lies a little on the op- 
posite side of the mountain ; and the 
coal -cars are first made to ascend to the 
summit of the railway up an acclivity 
of five eighths of a mile. The summit 
is 982 feet above the river. The aver- 
age rise of the way is eighteen inches 
per one hundred feet, which is scarcely 
perceptible to the eye, and enables a 
single lK)rse-power to draw up three 
empty cars. 

The cars are made of strong oak tim- 
bers, and planked up on three sides, 
with a swinging door in the rear. They 
are six feet four inches long, three feet 
wide at top and two feet at bottom, and 
about three feet in depth, resting on 
wheels with cast-iron rims or felloes two 
feet in diameter, one inch thick, and 
about four inches in breadth, with a 
strona edgfe orflanch, one inch in thick- 
ness, and about two inches wide, which 
prevents them from slipping off" the rails. 

The cars may be stopped immediate- 
ly, by a long lever, which brings stpjng 
bearers against two of the wheels, and 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



235 



causes great friction. The guide to ev- 
ery brigade of eleven cars holds a rope 
attaclied to all the levers. Several hun- 
dreds of such cars are in use. They car- 
ry the coal to the chute above the river, 
down which they are sent. 

At the end of the railroad is a plat- 
form, on the bank of the Lehigh river, 
down which the coal is let over one of 
the rails, on an inclined plane of 750 
feet (200 feet perpendicular height), to 
I he stone-houses, the wharf, and the 
boats. Each loaded car is connected to 
an empty one, which it draws up, by a 
.rope that passes round a large cylinder 
or drum. A car goes down in about one 
minute and twenty seconds. 

The mine opens upon the road by 
passages cut in the earth. These con- 
duct into an area formed by the removal 
of coal, where carts drive in, load, and 
then pass out at the other passage. 

Pittsburgh. — This is the greatest 
manufacturing town of the west, and 
has furnished a large proportion of the 
steamboats which navigate the Missis- 
sippi and its branches. It occupies a 
low point of land, at the junction of the 
Allegany and Monongahela rivers, whose 
united stream is named the Ohio. It is 
three hundred miles west from Philadel- 
phia, eleven hundred fi'om New Orleans, 
by land, and over two thousand by wa- 
ter, yet has almost daily communication 
with it by steamboats. A part of the 
city now covers Ayres' hill, and part of 
the sides of two other eminences ; while 
four small towns, Allegany, Sligo, Man- 
chester, and Birmingham, at short dis- 
tances, occupy points on the banks. 

A bridge of eight arches, and fifteen 
hundred feet long, crosses the Monon- 
gahela, erected in 1818, at an expense 
of one hundred thousand dollars ; while 
four bridges cross the Allegany, as well 
as the noble aqueduct of the Pennsylva- 
nia canal. The city contains about sev- 
enty churches, and the population, in 
1850, was 80,000. 

It is rare, indeed, to find so many ad- 
vantages concentrated in one spot, as 
those which combine to give to Pitts- 
burgh its great manufacturing and com- 
mercial importance. It not only occu- 
pies the head of the navigation of the 



Ohio, but it is the radiating point of the 
great western system of canals and rail- 
roads ; while its relation to extensive 
and fertile regions of Virginia and New 
York, as well as of the state to which it 
belongs, and the abundant supplies of 
coal and iron at its command, brought 
into use by its enterprising inhabitants, 
have given it the highest rank among 
the cities of the west. 

The fine engraving accompanying this 
description is copied from one of Mr. 
Bartlett's correct and elegant prints, 
and gives a just picture of this large and 
flourishing town ; but nothing except a 
visit to the place can convey an adequate 
idea of the amount of business earned 
on in various branches of manufacture. 

The principal manufactures of Pitts- 
burgh are all things that pertain to the 
construction and furnishing of steam- 
boats, especially the engines for their 
use, and such as are employed in vari- 
ous mills, &c., with a great variety of 
machines, implements, and tools, of 
wood as well as of iron, including 
ploughs, &c., &c. Bar and rolled iron 
are made in large quantities, as well as 
nails, glass, cotton cloths, leather, and 
boards. The steam-power in use in 
these and various other branches of 
manufacture, amounts to several thou- 
sand horse-power. Several steamboats 
arrive and depart every day, with many 
more canal-boats. 

There are several banks and insurance 
companies, a board of trade, with an ex- 
change-room and a reading-room, and 
about a dozen companies managing 
freight and the transport of passengers 
on the canal. 

The Cnurtliouse occupies the summit 
of Grant's hill, where it makes a con- 
spicuous appearance, and commands an 
extensive and interesting view over the 
city, the river, the neighboring villages, 
and the surrounding country. It is one 
hundred and sixty-five feet in length, 
one hundred in breadth, and has the jail 
in its rear. The rotunda, a fine hall, 
sixty feet in diameter, is in the second 
story, surrounded by court and jury- 
rooms. The structure is large, substan- 
tial, elegant, and costly. It was five 
yeai's in building, cost two hundred 



236 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



thousand dollars, and is creditable to the 
state, both on account of its style, plan, 
and execution. Its material is the fine, 
o-ray sandstotie, which abounds in some 
parts of the neighboring hills. 

The Western University of Pennsyl- 
vania is situated at Pittsburgh. The 
institution commenced operations in 
1822, and the buildings were erected 
on Third street, in 1830. The edifice 
has a high basement of hewn stone, with 
arched entrances, and two stories above, 
with a portico projecting in the middle, 
having four Ionic columns. It is sur- 
mounted by a cupola, with windows on 
all sides. 

The Water- Works. — Pittsburgh is 
supplied with water from the Allegany 
river, which is raised, by steam-power, 
to a resei'voir on Grant's hill, one hun- 
dred and sixteen feet high. The reser- 
voir is eleven feet in depth, and capable 
of containing a million of gallons. 

The Western Theological Seminary 
is situated at Allegany city. It is under 
the direction of the general assembly of 
the presbyterian church, by whom it was 
founded in 1825. The building occu- 
pies a fine, airy position, on the summit 
of an elevated ridge, rising one hundred 
feet from the bank of the river, and con- 
tains six thousand volumes in its libra- 
ry. A workshop was connected with it, 
with the intention of employing the stu- 
dents in manual labor. 

The theological seminary of the asso- 
ciate reformed church, which was found- 
ed in 1826, is also situated in this town. 

The Western Penitentiary of Penn- 
sylvania. — This extensive prison stands 
on the shore of the Allegany, at the 
western extremity of Allegany city. It 
was completed in 1827, and cost $183,- 
092, including all the furniture, &c. 
The system of solitary confinement is 
here in practice ; and the prisoners are 
employed, at solitary labor, in the weav- 
ing of carpets, making shoes, and pick- 
ing oakum. 

The United States Arsenal is at Law- 
renceville, two and a half miles above 
Pittsburgh, on the left bank of the Al- 
legany, opposite Wainwright's island. 
That insular spot is celebrated as the 
scene where Washincrton was driven on 



shore on his raft, in his first attempt to 
cross the stream, on his return from his 
mission to Venango. Considerable num- 
bers of arms are manufactured in the 
arsenal, including ordnance; and here 
a large supply is constantly in store. 
Here, also, equipments ai'e made and 
kept, for the southern and western mili- 
tary posts, the place being at once cen- 
tral, and conveniently situated for com- 
munication with different parts of the 
country. 

History. — The history of Pittsburgh 
is highly important, as it was the first 
point occupied, in all this western re- 
gion, by the English, and was the scene 
of contest between that nation and the 
French. Under the belief that " the 
forks of the Monongahela" were within 
the bounds of Virginia, George Wash- 
ington was sent, in 1753, to select a site 
for a fort, who chose this spot ; and 
troops were soon sent to occupy it, while 
Pennsylvania despatched a force for the 
same purpose, considering the place a 
spot within her own territory. But, on 
the 7th of April, 1754, while Ensign 
Ward, with forty men, was engaged in 
building a fort, during the absence of 
the superior officers, sixty batteaux and 
three hundred canoes appeared, loaded 
with one thousand of the enemy's troops 
and Indians, descending the Allegany. 
They landed and demanded a surrender; 
which was complied with, on condition 
that the English should be allowed to 
depart unmolested, with their working- 
tools. 

The capture of this fort was the first 
act of hostility in the last French war, 
as it is commonly called in this country, 
which continued for seven years. The 
French commander. Gen. Contrecoeur, 
immediately commenced the erection of 
Fort Duquesne on the same spot. 

In 1755, General Braddock, at the 
head of an amny, consisting of British 
troops and American militia, after many 
delays, approached this place, and the 
army thi'ew the French into a state of 
great alarm. Their fort was a mere 
stockade, quite unfit to resist ai'tillery ; 
and Captain Beaujeu, with great diffi- 
culty, persuaded some of the Indians to 
accompany a portion of the French soJ- 



It- 



238 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



diers to march out and await the ap- 
proach of their enemies in an ambush. 
The plan, however, proved successful, 
in consequence of the self-confidence of 
the British general ; for, in spite of the 
most earnest expostulations of Washing- 
ton, he persisted in proceeding without 
precaution, and would not allow an ad- 
vance guard or scouts to explore the 
trackless forest before and around them. 
The consequence was, that, after cross- 
ing the river and reaching a piece of 
smooth ground, up an acclivity, where 
they were among the trees, they received 
a sudden and destructive fire, on both 
sides, from large bodies of the enemy 
concealed in two ravines parallel to the 
line of march, and, after three hours' 
fighting, were totally defeated. The 
British commander, and many officers 
and men of the two regiments of regular 
troops, with a large part of the colonial 
militia, were killed. Those who were 
finally saved, owed their lives to the skill 
and boldness of Washington, who here 
first displayed some of those peculiar 
qualities which afterwai'd proved as use- 
ful to the country as honcn-able to him- 
self. 

Strange as it may seem, there is good 
reason to believe that the force by which 
that powerful expedition was defeated, 
was quite insignificant. Washington 
wrote to his mother, nine days after the 
battle, that he was persuaded they "did 
not amount to three hundred men, while 
ours consisted of about thirteen hundred 
well-armed troops, chiefly regular sol- 
diei's, who were struck with such a panic 
that they behaved with more cowardice 
than it is possible to conceive. The of- 
ficei's behaved gallantly, in order to en- 
courage their men, for which they suf- 
fered greatly." 

Easton. — This is an important town, 
situated at the mouth of Lehigh river. 
The canal-basin and locks, with the 
bridges over that stream and the Dela- 
ware, are expensive woi'ks. The coal- 
trade, the slate quarries, the surround- 
ing grain-country, and the manufactories 
of the place, many of which are moved 
by water-power, combine to I'ender the 
town one of much business and prosper- 
ity. There are at least twenty saw- 



mills, several oil-mills, &c., within a 
short distance. The Delawai-e bridge 
cost sixty-five thousand dollars. The 
Lehigh bridge is of wood, in the pla(;e 
of one of chains, which was destroyed 
by a flood in 1841. 

Lafayette College. — This institution, 
established in 1826, for a military acad- 
emy, was changed to one of a collegiate 
character in 1832; and, two years after- 
ward, the building was erected, which is 
one hundred and twelve feet by forty- 
four, and contains sixty rooms. It is 
named " Brainard hall." 

Easton was an important place in the 
middle of the last century, as it was a 
favorite council-town of the Delaware 
Indians. During the French wars, great 
exertions were made by the Jesuits in 
Canada, to detach this powerful nation 
from the English interest Important 
councils were held here in 1756, 1757, 
and 1758, at which all differences were 
adjusted between the Delawares of sev- 
eral tribes and the Six Nations of New 
York, by Teedyuscung, chief of the Del- 
awares, assisted by the quakers, in op- 
position to a strong combination of men 
less friendly to the claims of the red 
men. 

The Valley of Wyoming. — This nar- 
row tract of coimtry has attained melan- 
choly celebrity, from the tragical fate of 
its early colonies, which has been re- 
corded, in an appropriate style, by one 
of the most chaste and popular mod- 
ern British poets. This beautiful and 
secluded region is shut in by the ranges 
of the Shawnee and Lackawannock 
mountains on one side, and the Wyo- 
ming and the Moosic, about six miles 
distant, on the other. It is watered by 
the Susquehannah river, which, as has 
been bef()re remarked, runs in a direc- 
tion across the rude barriers of nature. 
On reaching this valley, however, it de- 
viates awhile from its general course in 
this part of the state, and meanders, 
with a gentle current, for about eighteen 
miles, nearly parallel with the ridges of 
the mountains. It then bursts its way 
though Wyoming mountain, and pursues 
its course through Columbia county. 

The first settlers here were from Con- 
necticut, as has been before mentioned, 



L. 



240 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



and several towns were for some time 
represented in the legislature of that 
colony, by deputies elected here, who 
annually performed the then long and 
toilsome joui'ney to Hartford. The man- 
ners and habits of the present day bear 
strong traces of their origin, although 
considerable additions have been re- 
ceived to the population from the Gex'- 
mans and Scotch-Irish of the surrounding 
country, with many miners and laborers, 
from Wales and Ireland, in the mining 
regions. 

" Few landscapes," says Professor 
Silliman, " can vie with the valley of 
Wyoming. Excepting some rocky 
precipices and cliffs, the mountains are 
wooded from the summit to their base ; 
natural sections furnish avenues for 
roads, and the rapid Susquehannah rolls 
its powerful current through a mountain- 
gap on the northeast, and immediately 
receives the Lackawanna, which flows 
down the narrower valley of the same 
name. A similar pass between the 
mountains on the south gives the Sus- 
quehannah an exit ; and, at both places, 
a slight obliquity in the position of the 
observer presents to the eye a seeming 
lake in the windings of the river, and a 
barrier of mountains apparently impas- 
sable. From the foot of the steep mount- 
ain ridges, particularly on the eastern 
side, the valley slopes away, with broad, 
sweeping undulations in the surface, 
forming numerous swelling hills of ara- 
ble and grazing land ; and, as we recede 
from the hills, the fine flats and mead- 
ows, covered with the richest grass and 
wheat, complete the pictui-e, by features 
of the gentlest and most luxuriant beau- 
ty." 

The lower part of Wyoming valley 
was occupied by some of the Shawnees, 
soon after the ai'rival of William Penn 
at Philadelphia, those Indians having 
received permission to settle there from 
the Six Nations, who claimed the coun- 
try. When some of the Delawares, not 
long subsequently, were driven, by the 
encroaching whites, from their lands 
above the forks of the Delaware and 
Lehigh, the Six Nations allowed them 
to occupy the eastern side of Wyoming 
valley, where they built a town called 



Maughwaurame, just below the site of 
Wilkesbarre. This was done in 1742; 
and that same year arrived among them 
the celebrated Moravian missionary. 
Count Zinzendorf, accompanied by his 
friend Mack, with his wife. The Dela- 
wares, jealous of white men (in conse- 
quence of having been oven-eaclied by 
an artifice in a contract for the sale of a 
portion of their lands on the Lehigh, by 
which they had been deprived of the 
whole), meditated the butchery of the 
man who had forsaken country and pos- 
sessions for the disinterested love of 
mankind, and devoted himself, with the 
evangelical spirit of primitive Christian- 
ity, to the trials of a missionary among 
the heathen. His life, however, was 
spared ; and he, with his companions 
and followers, lived to introduce the 
gospel among that nation of our abori- 
ginal red men. The mission was re- 
moved, a few years after, to Wyalusing, 
after the commencement of the Connec- 
ticut colony. The Shawnees, in the low- 
er part of the valley, had been invited 
by the French on the Ohio to join a part 
of their nation who resided among them, 
but had been prevented from a compli- 
ance by the influence of the Moravian 
missionaries. An accident, however, in- 
duced them to change their minds. One 
day, during the absence of the Delaware 
warriors, two children, from the different 
tribes, while at play on the banks of the 
Wyoming, fell into a dispute about a 
grasshopper which one of them had 
causfht. This at lenirth di"ew in their 
pai'ents and friends, until, to settle a 
question of rights and boundaries wliich 
was raised, it led to a battle, and the 
defeat and expulsion of the Shawnees. 
Thus enmity was created on both sides, 
which, with other causes, laid the way 
for the scenes of blood which ere long 
ensued. 

The charter of Pennsylvania was un- 
happily drawn up so as to interfere with 
that of Connecticut, both embracing this 
region, the right to which was vested by 
the former in William Penn, and by the 
latter, at a time long anterior, in the 
people of Connecticut. Under these 
circumstances, the fii'st settlers from that 
colon V arrived in 1762, to the number 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



241 



of two hundred ; and a long course of 
remonstrances, rivalry, military prepa- 
rations, and even military operations, 
commenced between them and the Penn- 
sylvanians. 

In 1777, at a time when almost all the 
able-bodied men of the Connecticut set- 
tlements were absent with the Revolu- 
tionary army, a large body of Indians 
came down the Susquehannah, led by 
the inhuman Colonel John Butler, whose 
savage conduct at Cherry valley has 
been noticed in the description of New 
York. His force consisted of his own 
tory rangers, a detachment from Sir John 
Johnson's Royal Greens, in all about four 
hundred, and seven hundred Seneca In- 
dians. To meet them, only four hundred 
could be mustered, consisting chiefly of 
old men and boys, and these vxndrilled, 
ill provided with arms, and many of them 
unaccustomed to war, and ill-fitted for 
the field by their youth or age. Choos- 
ing for their leader Colonel Zebulun 
Butler, who happened to be at the place, 
they took post on the side of the Sus- 
quehannah, with the steep bank on their 
right, and a swamp on their left, and 
there withstood the enemy, until, after 
a desperate fight, and the loss of two 
thirds of their number, the invaders tri- 
umphed. Many of the prisoners were 
butchered in cold blood after the sur- 
render ; and numbers of those who es- 
caped, were barely able to reach their 
women and children, left in the stock- 
aded forts below, in time to induce them 
to desert the valley and seek safety in 
flight. Hundreds of weak and defence- 
less widows and orphans were soon wan- 
dering over the mountains, and pursuing 
their melancholy way to distant settle- 
ments, and even back to Connecticut. 
Some parties lived for several days on 
whortleberries ; and one, consisting of 
a hundred persons, had but a single 
man. One of the stockades, called Fort 
Forty, having received a few of the fu- 
gitive soldiers, made a show of defence 
on the approach of the victorious ene- 
my, and obtained an honorable capitu- 
lation, drawn up in the handwriting of 
their clergyman, and signed by Colonel 
Butler; but, no sooner had the tories 
entered at one gate, and the Indians at 



the other, than they began to threater 
and rob the inmates, whose weakness 
they had now discovered. They, how- 
ever, did not proceed to bloodshed ; but 
as it was perceptible that no security 
could be enjoyed, the people in a few 
days followed the example of their pred- 
ecessors, and set out on foot to find some 
place of safety. For several days and 
nights the houses and barns were burn- 
ing in all parts of the valley, while hun- 
dreds of corpses lay bleeding, from the 
weapons of the white and the red men, 
who seemed to rival each other in wan- 
ton barbarity, thus addinganother to the 
awfiil lessons which history has so often 
recorded, on the diabolical spirit that 
war can enkindle in the human heart. 

In 1779, Gen. Sullivan passed through 
the valley with his army, on his expedi- 
tion against the Six Nations, and, in Oc- 
tober, returned to Easton, whence he 
had marched, having devastated some 
of the richest of their country. 

In March, 1784, after the valley had 
again become populous, on the breaking 
up of the ice in the river, a dam was 
formed, by its stopping, at the narrow 
gorge through which it leaves this beau- 
tiful region. The water rapidly rose 
over the land, driving the inhabitants to 
the hills, and leaving, after subsiding, 
many lands injured, and much property 
destroyed. 

After the close of the Revolutionary 
war, violent animosities were raised be- 
tween the "Pennamites" and the "Con- 
necticut boys," as the two old parties 
were called, and were carried to great 
lengths ; but a permanent adjustment 
of the long dispute was finally made by 
the legislatures of the two states inter- 
ested. 

Montgomery County is apart of the 
state most abounding in iron-mines. It 
is situated in the heart of the central 
range of mountains, and is exceedingly 
wild and rough, with small valleys in- 
terposed between numerous tall and 
romantic eminences, such as Tnscarora 
mountain. Black Log, Sideling hill, the 
Terrace, Allegripus, Tussey's, Black 
Eagle, &c. Near the southwestern ex- 
tremity of the county rises a very con- 
spicuous and remarkable eminence. 



16 



242 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



called Broadtop mountain, which con- 
tains a singular coal-basin, with thin 
seams of bituminous coal, from one to 
four feet in thickness. The Juniata 
river, with several of its branches, wa- 
ters different parts of this wild, Alpine 
region. 

Montgomery county lies along the 
Schuylkill river, and formerly belonged 
to Philadelphia county. It comprehends 
some of the earliest settlements, with 
remains of the first colonists, and evi- 
dences of their substantial habits, as 
well as some of the more modern works 
of internal improvement. The surface is 
agreeably varied, with much picturesque 
scenery, whose beauties are enhanced 
by the hand of persevering and success- 
ful culture, as well as by the works of 
science, enlisted in the service of an en- 
lightened public spirit. 

The southeastern extremity of the 
county is traversed by a belt of primi- 
tive rocks. The primitive limestone of 
the Great valley crosses the Schuylkill 
at Swedesford and Conshohocken, af^ 
fording valuable quarries for the supply 
of white marble to Philadelphia ; and 
red shale constitutes the rocks of other 
parts, whose debris fortns a productive 
soil, while sandstones prevail in some 
places. Stone turnpikes, and other good 
roads, are numerous. The Reading rail- 
road and the Norristown and Philadel- 
phia railroad pursue the course of the 
Schuylkill for some distance, while the 
works of the Navigation company, be- 
fore mentioned, afford another important 
channel of transportation. On these are 
several bridges, and other works, worthy 
of particular attention. Copper-mines 
are believed to have been formerly open- 
ed in different parts of this county, and 
there are reports of silver and lead-mines 
having been known. Numerous mills 
and manufactories are kept in operation 
by the water-power provided at the vari- 
ous dams on the river. 

The first settlements were made in 
the southeastern part of Montgomery 
county by Swedes and Welsh, and in 
the north by Germans, all of whom long 
retained their appi'opriate languages. 
But of these, only the German remains 
at the present day. Religious services 



were first held by the friends, or qua- 
kers, in Oxford, in 1683, and in Hors- 
ham in 1716. The first meetinghouse 
of the Welsh friends was built in North 
Wales in 1700, and the second in 1712. 
In lower Merion township, a friends' 
meetinghouse was erected as early as 
1695, which is still standing and in use, 
having been lately repaired. 

The first Swedish church was erected 
at Swedesford in 1763, the Swedes hav- 
ing come into the county, as it appears, 
some time after the Welsh. The Swe- 
dish churches, in different towns in this 
county, were incoi-porated together, by 
John Penn, in 1765, and this charter 
was renewed in 1787, by the state legis- 
lature. Remains of old Swedish cus- 
toms, as well as families, are still found, 
especially about Norristown. 

A few Germans, having early come 
over from Europe to join the colonists 
of William Penn, and settled German- 
town, near Philadelphia, sent back to 
their countrymen such favorable ac- 
counts that they had numerous follow- 
ers, especially from the Palatinate, be- 
tween 1700 and 1730. They occupied 
the territory about the head-waters of 
Perkiomen creek, and Lutheran and 
German reformed churches were after- 
ward founded. In 1741, however, al- 
though there were about a hundred Lu- 
theran communicants at New Hanover, 
or the Swamp, the only place of worship 
was a log-hut, and it was not until 1767 
that a church was built of stone, which 
is still in use by a congregation of five 
hundred members. The German re- 
formed congregation was formed about 
the year 1747, and their present brick 
edifice was erected in 1790. Numerous 
Lutheran congregations are now con- 
centrated about Latrappe, extending 
among the neighboring towns in Bucks 
county, where the German language is 
still generally spoken. The old chui'ck 
standing in the village of Trappe, was 
ei'ected in 1743, by Rev. Henry Melchior 
Muhlenberg, who is called the father of 
the Lutheran church in the United States. 
Eve'-y pew in the building, and every 
seat in each, has its number branded 
into the wood with a hot iron ; and a 
tablet over the door bears a Latin in- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP PENNSYLVANIA. 



243 



scription, now almost illegible, bearing 
the above date and the name of its 
founder, whose remains lie interred in 
the churchyard. 

Several congregations of German bap- 
tists, or Mennonists, are also found in 
this neighborhood, whose ancestors came 
to this country about the period included 
between the years 1706 and 1717. In 
the northeastern part of the county, 
near Goschenhoppen, is a small body of 
Schwenckfelders, named after Gaspar 
de Schwenckfeldt, a Silesian nobleman, 
born in 1490, who taught doctrines con- 
demned by Rome, and incurred perse- 
cution for them, yet differed essentially 
from Luther. His followers were pro- 
tected by Count Zinzendorf for eight 
years, when they came to Pennsylvania, 
where they arrived some time before 
1740. 

Valley Forge, a wild and secluded 
valley in the mountainous region of this 
county, is associated with one of the 
most gloomy and desperate periods of 
the American revolution. The British 
army, after landing on the Delaware, 
gained the battle of Brandywine, Sep- 
tember 11, 1777, and Washington re- 
treated, with his feeble army, to Ger- 
mantown, and, after one day's rest, 
crossed the Schuylkill, and advanced on 
the Lancaster road, to endeavor to stop 
the progress of the enemy, but was pre- 
vented by the injury of his ammunition, 
caused by a severe rain. The enemy 
then taking the road toward Swedesford, 
induced Washington to leave that to 
Philadelphia open, and, taking advan- 
tage of the opportunity, entered that 
city ; to guard which, he occupied Ger- 
mantown with the largest body of troops. 
This was one of the great epochs in the 
history of the Revolution, when to most, 
even of the friends of American inde- 
pendence, the cause was regarded as 
hopeless. But not so with Washington. 
He drew off the remains of his army to 
this wild, inhospitable spot, and here 
struggled through a severe winter, under 
the most trying privations, awaiting an 
opportunity, which at length arrived, for 
the striking of an unexpected blow. He 
once wrote to congress : " For some 
days there has been little less than a 



famine in the camp. A part of the army 
have been a week without any kind of 
flesh, and the rest three or four days." 
Strong exertions were at this time made 
to supersede him in command, but with- 
out success. 

Mrs. Washington visited him m this 
dreary retreat ; and the house is still 
remaining which served as his head- 
quarters. It is the substantial stone- 
mansion of Mr. Isaac Potts, owner of the 
forge, from which the place has derived 
its name. 

The Mount Carbon railroad was com- 
menced in 1829. It is supported, for 
some distance along several landings, on 
thirty-one piers of masonry, and passes 
through the gap of Sharp mountain, 
down the Schuylkill valley to Mon-is- 
ville, where are coal-mines on both sides 
of the river. At that place it leaves the 
bank of the stream, and follows the val- 
ley of Norwegian creek to Pottsville, a 
distance of 6,208 feet from its com- 
mencement. A branch, 14,200 feet in 
length, leads to the Centreville mines, 
which belong to the North American 
coal company, and affords access to the 
celebrated Peach mountain and other 
mines. The west branch is 16,400 feet 
long, and reaches to Marysville, with 
the Diamond and Oak-hill coal-mines 
and others. 

Several other local railroads are now 
in use ; and the long one to Reading and 
Philadelphia has greatly increased the 
facility of transportation. The Danville 
road, an immense work, from the great 
natural obstructions to be overcome, was 
proposed in 1826, and in 1834 was com- 
pleted as far as Girardsville, ten miles, 
with a tunnel seven hundred feet long, 
and four inclined planes. But another 
tunnel, of twenty-five hundred feet, ne- 
cessary to open a passage into the Gi- 
rard mines, has not been completed. 

As the beds of coal near the surface 
of the earth become exhausted, the mi- 
ners dig deeper, or abandon the old 
mines for new ones. In the former case, 
wide passages are cut into the earth, at 
a declining angle of about forty degrees, 
which serve for the entrance of empty 
cars on one rail-track, and the exit of 
the loaded ones on another. Steam-en- 



244 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



gines are employed to pump out the 
water, as well as to draw up the coal. 
Some of these mines are worked under 
the very town of Pottsville, and extend 
several hundred feet. The deeper the 
mines are sunk, the more pure and val- 
uable is the coal usually found. 

Port Carbon is the village at the 
landing, at the head of navigation, on the 
main branch of the Schuylkill, two miles 
northeast fi-om Pottsville. At the bot- 
tom of a deep and wild valley are seen 
long ranges of building, with sevei'al 
short railroad lines concentrating from 
the valley of Mill creek, and the mines 
wrought along its romantic borders, and 
the villages of Patterson, Middleport, 
New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora, whose 
existence dates back only to the year 
1828. 

MiNERSViLLE, the principal mining 
village on the western branch of the 
Schuylkill, has a railroad, several mills 
and manufactories, and two churches ; 
and numerous other villages are found 
in this region. Population, 1850, 2,984. 

The position of the coal-beds in the 
Schuylkill valley being beneath the sur- 
face of the ground, requires mining in 
the usual way, while at Mauch Chunk 
the anthracite is dug and removed, like 
stone from a surface-quarry. A sudden, 
terrific, and fatal accident occurred at 
one of the great mines in 1845, in con- 
sequence of the insufficient supports left 
by the workmen in digging away the 
coal, when the immense weight of the 
mountain above sank down and filled up 
a considerable part of the excavations. 
A very remarkable phenomenon attend- 
ed this fall. The descent of the mass 
was so sudden, that the air was driven 
violently from the halls and galleries of 
the mine, through the external openings, 
as from an immense bellows, and with 
such force that carts were blown along 
to some distance and broken. Several 
lives were lost ; and one man, who was 
shut in by having the passages around 
him closed, after feeling about him in 
the darkness, and working a long time 
among the loose rocks, succeeded in 
digging out, after a confinement of about 
forty-eight hours. 

York is eighty-three miles from Phil- 



adelphia. This town stands on Codorus 
creek, eleven miles from the Susquehan- 
nah, to which is a line of improved nav- 
igation. A railroad leads to Baltimore. 
York is a place of five thousand inhab- 
itants, and is remarkable as the seat of 
government of the United States for a 
time in the year 1777, during the occu- 
pation of Philadelphia by the British. 
Some manufacturing is carried on here; 
and it contains ten churches, a court- 
house, academy, bank, and a lyceum, 
which is in possession of a cabinet of 
minerals. The railroad affords frequent 
and easy communication with Baltimore, 
as well as Philadelphia, while stage- 
coaches depart daily for Harrisburg, and 
twice a week for Chambersburg. 

The York Sulphur- Springs are situ- 
ated twenty-one miles south of Harris- 
burg, and the scenery which surrounds 
them is striking and pleasing. The 
place is one of fashionable resort, 

Harrisburg, one hundred and seven 
miles fi-om Philadelphia, is the capital 
of Pennsylvania. The statehouse occu- 
pies a lofty and commanding situation, 
on Mount Airy. It is an edifice of con- 
siderable size, being one hundred and 
eighty by eighty feet ; and the senate 
and representatives' chambers are spa- 
cious apartments. The library of the 
state, contained in this building, amounts 
to above six thousand volumes. 

The scenery around this town is re- 
markably picturesque and varied. It 
occupies a point on the Susquehannah, 
where it breaks through the range of 
the Kittatiny mountains, and is crossed 
by two fine bridges. The population, 
in 1850, amounted to 8,173 ; and among 
the public buildings are ten churches, 
the courthouse, two banks, and acade- 
my, the prison, and the arsenal. 

Stage-coaches run from Harrisburg to 
Pottsville, Northumberland, and Bal- 
timore, tnrough York ; while railcars 
depart daily for Chambersburg, and 
three times every day for Philadelphia. 

Carlisle, in the Cumberland valley, 
eighteen miles from Harrisburg, is one 
of the oldest settlements, and the seat 
of Dickinson college, a methodist insti- 
tution, founded in 1783. The number 
of students is nearly two hundred, under 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



245 



the care of seven professors. The li- 
braries contain twelve thousand volumes, 
and the chyraical, philosophical, and 
mineralogical collections and depart- 
ments are well supplied. 

The United States barracks were 
erected in 1777, chiefly by the labor of 
the Hessian prisoners captured at Tren- 
ton. 

The SulpJiur- Springs, four miles from 
the village, are celebrated for their effi- 
cacy in cutaneous and other diseases, and 
are the annual resort of many visiters. 
They are situated in the midst of the 
Blue ridge ; and the picturesque scene- 
ry, with the embellishments of art dis- 
played in the walks and gardens, offer 
many attractions. 

Chambers BURG. — This town, situated 
at the junction of the Falling-Spring 
creek with the Conecocheague, enjoys 
the advantages of a railroad connexion 
with Harrisburg and several considera- 
ble manufactories, though a small place, 
with between three and four thousand 
inhabitants. Population, 1850, 4,300. 

Bedford is two hundred and six miles 
west from Philadelphia, and stands on 
a branch of Juniata river. It contains 
five churches, a courthouse, and an acad- 
emy, with eleven hundred inhabitants. 
It derives its principal interest, in the 
eyes of most strangers, from the springs 
in its immediate vicinity. 

The Bedford Springs are five in num- 
ber, situated in a narrow valley a mile 
and a half south of the town, from which 
they derive their name. They are dis- 
tinguished from each other, as the Sweet 
spring, Sulphur, Fletcher's, Anderson's, 
the Limestone, and the Chalybeate, pos- 
sessing a variety of properties. Several 
houses are kept for the accommodation 
of visiters, with baths of different kinds 
supplied from the springs. A little lake 
has been formed, on which pleasure- 
boats are kept for the amusement of vis- 
iters ; and the place is annually resorted 
to by considerable numbers. As Phil- 
adelphia stage-coaches arrive and depart 
daily, the access is convenient. 

Ca.vnonsburgii is a town of about one 
thousand inhabitants, situated eighteen 
miles southwest from Pittsburgh, and is 
the seat of Jefferson colleo^e. That in- 



stitution was founded in 1802, and con- 
tains about a hundred and fifty students, 
with 4,500 volumes in its libraries. The 
last Thursday of September is the time 
for holding the annual con.mencement. 
The medical department of this college 
is situated in Philadelphia. 

The theological seminary of the asso- 
ciate church is also established in this 
place. 

Washington. — This town is twenty- 
five miles north of Pittsburgh, and oc- 
cupies a lofty situation, containino- above 
two thousand inhabitants, with nine 
churches, two academies, and a court- 
house. Stage-coaches depart daily for 
Pittsburgh, Wheeling, and Baltimore. 

Washington College was founded in 
1806, and now contains about one hun- 
dred students. It possesses a miner- 
alogical cabinet, philosophical appai'a- 
tus, with libraries embracing from two 
to three thousand volumes. 

Meadville, on French creek, is the 
seat of Allegany college. That institu- 
tion was founded in the year 1815, and 
contains about one hundred and fifty 
students. The volumes in the libraries 
amount to about eight thousand. 

Erie. — This town, situated on the 
summit of a lofty bluff*, which rises from 
the shore of the noble lake from which 
it has derived its name, has one of the 
best harbors on that inland sea. It con- 
tains a number of handsome public and 
private buildings, with seven chuiches, 
a bank, and an academy, with 6,000 in- 
habitants. 

This place is remarkable for the ra- 
pidity and success with which the fleet 
of Commodore Perry was built, in the 
war of 1812, to meet the British forces 
on the lake. The ships were ready for 
sea in seventy days after the felling of 
the timber; and in a shoi't time they 
returned to this port, bringing with them 
the enemy's captured squadron. The 
flag-ship Lawrence still shows its re- 
mains in the harbor, the state of the 
country in this region happily creating 
no demand for warlike operations. The 
old French fort Presque-Isle was situa- 
ted at this place, and some traces of it 
are yet distinguishable. 

Birmingham, in Chester county, is a 



240 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



small town situated on Brandywine 
creek, near the scene of one of the most 
important battles ever fought within the 
limits of this state, as it caused the rout 
of the American army sent to oppose 
the British forces on their way to Phila- 
delphia, and opened the way for the oc- 
cupation of that city for a considerable 
time. A commanding hill, near the vil- 
lage, aifords a view of the field of battle, 
which had some unfortunate features, as 
the following brief description of the 
action will show. Had the Brandywine 
river been fordable in but a few places, 
the American troops would not have had 
to guard the whole Une. The ability of 
the enemy to assail it at any point at 
any moment, kept our commander-in- 
chief in a continual state of anxiety, and 
the enemy availed himself too success- 
fully of the advantages in his possession. 

The Battle of the Brandywine. — This 
important action was fought on the shore 
of the stream whose name it bears, on 
the 11th of September, 1777, between 
the British forces under General Howe, 
and the American army commanded by 
General Washington. The enemy had 
arrived from New York, in their fleet, in 
the Chesapeake, late in the month of 
August, and Washington was thus re- 
lieved from uncertainty respecting their 
designs. Presuming that they were 
now resolved to seize upon Philadelphia, 
he immediately called upon all the coips 
of the regular army which could be 
spared, to join him by forced marches, 
and sent requisitions to the governors 
of the neighboring states for their mili- 
tia. The British landed on the 25th, 
near the head of Elk river, 18,000 
strong, and well provided in all respects, 
except horses, in which they were quite 
deficient, having lost many the prece- 
ding season, from the scarcity of forage. 
It is presumed that they might have 
acted with greater efficiency on the plains 
of Pennsylvania, if they had been strong- 
er in cavalry. 

Gen. Knyphausen, having remained 
at the landing with the rear-guard, to 
cover the debarkation, followed the van 
in a short time, and the whole army took 
post along Christina creek, from New- 
ark to Atkins, after the column of Corn- 



wallis had routed Maxwell's riflemen, 
who ventured to harass them on their 
march. On the enemy's approach, the 
American army proceeded to encamp 
behind White Clay creek ; but Wash- 
ington, finding the ground disadvanta- 
geous, retired to the Brandywine, and 
occupied the heights from Chadsford 
toward the southeast, while Maxwell, 
with his riflemen, hung upon the ene- 
my's flank. General Armstrong, with 
the militia, guarded a passage below the 
camp, and the main body took a posi- 
tion to prevent the easiest passage of 
the river, it being fordable, however, in 
all parts. 

General Howe gave the right of his 
army to General Knyphausen, and the 
left to Cornwallis ; the former to engage 
the attention of the Americans by a feint 
to cross the stream, while the latter 
should push to a place above, where the 
crossing might be more easily effected. 
Maxwell for a while maintained a spir- 
ited skirmish with the British marks- 
men, but finally fell back before Knip- 
hausen, who made so many demonstra- 
tions of a resolution to force the passage 
at Chadsford, that his feint proved suc- 
cessful, the Americans becoming so 
much engrossed by him as to allow 
Cornwallis to accomplish his object with 
but little difficulty. Having crossed the 
forks of the Brandywine, at Trimble's 
and Jeffi'ey's fords, he marched down 
the bank toward Dilworth, to fall upon 
the American right flank. 

The first intelligence which Washing- 
ton received of this was an exaggerated 
account, that a large part of the British 
was approaching, under the command 
of Howe ; and he instantly gave orders 
to Sullivan to cross the river above, and 
fall upon Knyphausen's left, intending 
himself to pass below and attack his 
right. At that moment, however, an- 
other messenger brought him the false 
report that the enemy had not yet crossed 
the stream. His former command was 
then countermanded ; and the next in- 
telligence assured him of the truth. No 
time was to be lost ; for the enemy were 
now fast approaching his right wing, on 
the advance of which was General Ste- 
vens, with Stirling and Sullivan next in 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



247 



order, with their respective brigades. 
Sullivan took command of the whole 
wins, as the senior officer, while Wash- 
ington, with Greene, took post between 
it and the left wing at Chadsford, ready 
to reinforce either which might require 
his aid. 

The ground occupied by Sullivan was 
well chosen, and very advantageous ; but 
the enemy did not allow him to collect 
all his troops, and he was forced to give 
way, after a manly resistance, and fled 
to the woods in their rear, and along the 
road by which Greene was now ap- 
proaching to their aid. To prevent the 
confusion of the fugitives from being 
communicated to his own troops, Greene 
opened his lines to the right and left, 
and, after giving them passage, closed 
again, and, facing about, retired in good 
ordei", keeping the enemy in check by 
a steady fire of artillery. The Penn- 
sylvania and Virginia militia, who com- 
posed his brigade, made a vigorous stand 
in a defile on the road, where they for 
some time brought the enemy to a halt. 
General Knyphausen now advanced 
to the ford in earnest ; and the Ameri- 
cans left in defence of the intrenchments 
and battery on the opposite side, seeing 
some of the British troops approaching 
on their right, in pursuit of their re- 
treating countrymen, abandoned the 
ground and retired. General Greene 
was the last officer on the ground, and 
left it only when darkness had come on. 
The Americans, routed, reached Ches- 
ter that night, and Philadelphia the next 
day ; their entire loss being stated at 
about three hundred killed, six hundred 
wounded, and four hundred prisoners. 
Ten field-pieces and a howitzer also fell 
into the hands of the enemy. The ene- 
my lost, in all, about five hundred men. 
In this action, the foreign volunteers, 
so recently enlisted under the American 
standard, performed good service. The 
Marquis Lafayette, while rallying his 
troops, received the wound in his leg 
I which rendered him a cripple for the 
i rest of his life ; but it did not prevent 
him from continuing his labors through 
the fight. Captain De Fleury had a 
horse killed under him, and the Baron 
St. Ovary was made captive. 



On the day following the battle, a 
body of the enemy's light troops marched 
to Wilmington, in Delaware, and made 
prisoner of the governor, and seized a 
quantity of money and other property, 
public and private, with some papers of 
importance. There being no longer any 
force sufficient to resist him. Lord Corn- 
wallis entered Philadelphia, on the 26th 
of September, with a body of British 
and Hessian grenadiers, leaving his army 
encamped at Gei-mantown : the number 
of royalists in that city at the time being 
so great as to leave him little room for 
apprehension. General Washington, in 
the meantime, retired, with the few 
troops he could command, to Skippack 
creek, on the banks of the Schuylkill; a 
wild region, difficult of access, and a 
favorable retreat in his circumstances, 
which rendered the protection of nature 
necessary to his safety. 

Interesting Facts in the History 
OF Pennsylvania. — It was designed by 
Penn that Philadelphia should never be 
closely built. He named it thus, as he 
remarked, " before it was born," in or- 
der to express the principles of benev- 
olence on which he intended to have its 
concerns conducted, and intended that 
it should always be " a greene towne," 
with ample room for the convenience 
and comfort of all the inhabitants. It 
still presents a general aspect quite dif- 
ferent from that of the most crowded 
cities of the Old World, with respect to 
the streets, which, instead of being nar- 
row, crooked, and dirty, are straight, 
wide, and clean. His plan, however, 
has been in some points encroached up- 
on. He insisted that the bank of the 
Delaware should be kept open and un- 
occupied by buildings and enclosures, 
and resisted every proposal to abridge 
the fi-eedom which the public enjoyed, 
in approaching the water. An unhappy 
change has since taken place ; and there 
are now few cities in our country where 
the wharves are more crowded and in- 
convenient. 

The plan of his new city appears, from 
I'enn's original instructions to his three 
commissioners, to have been very large. 
These men, William Crispin, John Be- 
zar, and Nathaniel Allen, were sent out 



248 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



in the autumn of 1681, to select a site 
and lay out the great city. The Penn- 
sylvania Historical society have pub- 
lished at length the written instructions 
with which they were furnished. 

He directed that " the creeks should 
be sounded on every side of Delaware 
river, especially upland, in order to set- 
tle a great towne." His object was to 
find a place " where most ships may ride, 
of deepest draught of water, if possible, 
to load and unload at ye bank or key 
side, without boating and lightering it." 
He directed that the earth should be 
dug, to ascertain that the soil was dry 
and healthy, and that ten thousand acres 
should be laid out for the liberties of 
the town. 

Twelve square miles would have been 
required, by the plan, for all the pur- 
chasers ; and this, with other i-equisi; 
tions, induced the commissioners to de- 
fer the selection of any site, and to await 
the arrival of Penn. They examined 
and described the site of Chester, a place 
on the elevated bank at the mouth of 
Poquessin creek and Pennsbury manor, 
as well as the place where Philadelphia 
stands, which proved most agreeable to 
the governor. It is said, by tradition, 
that he took an open boat, at Chester, 
and proceeded to Wicacoa, with a few 
friends, toward the end of November, 
1682, and found the site of the present 
city occupied by three Swedes, brothers, 
named Swenson, a name since altered 
to Swanson. The river's bank was then 
high, and covered with a thick growth 
of tall pines, a place which the Indians 
called Coaquannock. It seems that the 
spot had something, even in its wild 
state, which recommended it for a set- 
tlement : as Proud says that some of the 
passengers in the first ship which ever 
sailed so far up the Delaware (namely, 
the Shield, Captain Tovves, from Hull, 
December, 1678), exclaimed, " It is a 
fine place for a town." He mentions, 
also, that the shore was bold and high, 
so that, in turning, some of the tackling 
struck the trees. 

This was a vessel bringing out colo- 
nists for New Jersey. Penn arrived four 
years later ; and, having purchased the 
ground of the three Swedes above-men- 



tioned, he began to lay out his new city, 
and to prepare for its construction. It 
is remarkable that numbers of the peo- 
ple who had preceded him, for some 
time after their arrival, had taken up 
their dwelling in caves under the steep 
bank. The first house erected was that 
of George Guest, which was not comple- 
ted when Penn arrived. It stood near 
Powell's dock, in Budd's row, and long 
served as a tavern, under the name of 
the Blue Anchor. 

The first person born in Philadelphia 
was said to be John Key, and his birth- 
place was one of the caves just men- 
tioned, near Sassafras street, which was 
long known as the "Pennypot." He 
lived to the age of eighty-four, and died 
at Kennet, on the 5th of July, 1765. 
William Penn, it is said, gave him a lot 
of ground. He used to walk into the 
city until within six years of his death, 
and was generally known, in the latter 
part of his life, by the name of " the 
first-born." 

Between twenty and thirty vessels 
arrived in the course of the first year, 
bringing out great numbers of quakers, 
who had left their homes to avoid the 
persecutions to which they were ex- 
posed. They were so numerous, that 
not only Philadelphia became at once a 
considerable town, but the country was 
■\^ell supplied with inhabitants along the 
river's borders for a distance of fifty 
miles, from Chester up to the falls at 
Trenton. 

The house of Thomas Fairbank, at 
Shackamaxon, near Kensington, was oc- 
cupied, in 1681, as a quaker meeting- 
house ; and the following year a boarded 
building was erected for this purpose, 
in the city. Another was erected near 
the centre of Philadelphia, in 1684; one 
in Front street, in 1685 ; the great meet- 
inghouse in High street, in 1695 ; one 
on the hill, in Pine street, in 1753 ; 
and the present one in High street, in 
1755. 

Between 1682 and 1714, no less than 
three hundred and fourteen marriages 
were performed among the quakers ; and 
in the years 1681, 1682, and 1683, about 
fifty vessels arrived with passengers. 
Amonar these were a number of German 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



249 



converts to the quaker principles, the 
disciples of William Ames, an English- 
man. Having " borne public testimo- 
ny" in their native place, Krisheim, near 
Worms, in the Palatinate, they seized 
the opportunity offered by Penn, to take 
up their habitation in America, in a state 
founded by one of their own faith, and 
settled at Germantown, which derived 
its name from them. Among them were 
persons of all ages, and some who had 
been brought up in ease and plenty. To 
them the common trials of the colonists 
must have been severe, as some of the 
new-comers were obliged to occupy hol- 
low trees, as well as caverns, while prep- 
arations wei"e making for the erection 
of houses or huts ; and most of those 
afforded poor accommodations, and even 
but little protection from the cold and 
storms of the winter. 

The celebrated treaty made by Penn 
with the Indians has always been a com- 
pact of peculiar interest, on account of 
the principles of justice and humanity 
on which it was founded, the sacredness 
with which it was observed, and the ex- 
tensive, lasting, and beneficial effects 
which it produced. Yet it is remarka- 
ble that no written memorial of it re- 
mains, beyond a few allusions to it made 
in contemporaneous documents, and that 
everything else relating to it depends 
upon the authority of tradition. The 
spot is pointed out, on the bank of the 
Delaware, where the council assembled 
in 1682, under an elm-tree, at Kensing- 
ton, where a plain obelisk now stands, 
erected by the Penn society, in 1827, 
beai'ing the following brief but appro- 
priate inscriptions : — 

On the north side : " Treaty-ground 
of William Penn and the Indian natives, 
1682." 

On the south : " William Penn : born 
1644 ; died 1718." 

On the west : " Placed by the Penn 
society, A. D. 1827 : To mark the site 
of the great elm-tree." 

On the east : " Pennsylvania founded, 
1681, by deeds of peace." 

A long memoir was presented to the 
Pennsylvania Historical society, in 1836, 
by Messrs. Dupongeau and Fisher, on 
the subject of Penn's first treaty, in 



which the opinion was expressed, that 
it was one of friendship, and had no re- 
lation to the purchase of land. 

Letltia House. — This celebrated build- 
ing, still standing in a street of Phila- 
delphia of the smaller size, has excited 
much attention within a few years, since 
the spirit of antiquarian research has 
arisen, as it is believed to have been 
erected for William Penn's own use, by 
William Markham, in the year 1682, 
the year before his arrival. It is of 
brick, of small size, two stories high, 
with a single window on each side of 
the door, a steep roof, a stack of chim- 
neys, and a single dormer-window in 
front. A rustic roof projects over the 
door, which is entered by rising a single 
step from the street ; and an old-fash- 
ioned, wooden cellar-door, nearly flat, 
opens under each of the windows. The 
little street in which it stands is named 
Letitia court, and opens on Market street, 
between Front and Second streets. 

A letter of Penn is preserved, in which 
he allows his " cousin Markham to live 
in his house in Philadelphia, and that 
Thomas Lloyd, the deputy-governor, 
should have the use of his periwigs, and 
any wines and beer he may have there 
left for the use of strangers." It ap- 
pears that Penn, having been accus- 
tomed to the luxurious style of King 
Charles II., and to the upper classes of 
society during his travels on the conti- 
nent, never renounced all traces of his 
early habits, even after he had placed 
himself at the head of the friends in 
their great colony in America. He paid 
much regard to di-ess and forms in pub- 
lic ; and was, according to descriptions 
and pictures remaining of him, before 
he came to America, "quite a finished 
gentleman, eminently handsome, the 
appearance of his countenance remark- 
ably pleasing and sweet, his eye dark 
and lively, and his hair flowing grace- 
fully over his shoulders, according to the 
fashion set by the worthless but fascin- 
ating Charles II." His portrait, pre- 
sented to the Historical society by his 
grandson, bears witness to the accuracy 
of this description ; and it would seem, 
from writings extant, that he main- 
tained, in his colony, habits in several 



250 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



respects corresponding with his earlier 
life. 

In his cash-book are proofs that he 
had four periwigs, silk hose, leathern 
gambadoes, or overalls, and many fine 
beaver hats, furbished up at the hatter's, 
while a greater number still he present- 
ed to his friends, one of which he com- 
mends for having " a true mayoral brim." 
It is handed down by tradition, that he 
wore, also, silver shoebuckles. 

He had an elegant house at Penns- 
burg, which has been compared to a 
kind of palace, abounding in rich furni- 
ture, and supplied with liquors, though 
he was not fond of spirits, and had an 
aversion to tobacco, so often their con- 
comitant. There is but a single charge 
of tenpence woi'th of this in the cash- 
book. He was very hospitable, and 
made provision for the entertainment of 
strangers during his absence. 

His benevolent regard for the Indians 
caxTied him so far that he often visited 
them, was present at their feasts a'nd 
merry-makings, and sat with them ujjon 
the ground, to partake of their hommony 
and roasted acorns ; by which exhibi- 
tions of kindness he greatly attached 
them to him. A remark of his is re- 
corded, which reflects the highest credit 
on his character. " The saying is," said 
he, " that he who gives to the poor lends 
to the Lord : but it may be said, not im- 
properly, the Lord lends to us to give 
to the poor. They are, at least, part- 
ners by Providence with you, and have 
a right you must not defraud them of." 

The following passage, in his parting 
instructions to his wife, deserves to be 
written in gold ; and its observance in 
this country would have given a better 
aspect to American society than we wit- 
ness at the present day : — 

" Let my children be husbandmen and 
housewives : it is industrious, healthy, 
honest, and of good report. This leads 
to consider the works of God, and di- 
verts the mind from being taken up with 
the vain arts and inventions of a luxuri- 
ous world. Of cities and towns of con- 
course beware. The woi'ld is apt to 
stick close to those who have got wealth 
there. A country life and estate I love 
best for my children." 



I Sir William Penn, father of the found- 
I er of Pennsylvania, was bom at Bristol, 
and was a distinguished admiral in the 
British navy, and commanded the fleet 
at the capture of Jamaica, in 1655. 
The protector confined him awhile in 
the Tower, for absenting himself with- 
out leave from the American station. 
He was member of parliament ; and, 
under Charles II., had a high command 
under the Duke of York, and participa- 
ted in the capture of the Dutch in 1664. 
He was knighted by that king, and died 
at his house in Wanstead, Essex, in 
1670, at the age of forty-nine. 

His son William was born in London, 
in 1644 ; and having warmly adopted 
the quaker principles, while in college i 
at Oxford, from the preaching of Loe, 
he was expelled for nonconformity; and 
his father, in 1662, after having " whip- 
ped and beaten" him, turned him out of 
doors for the same offence. The admi- 
ral, however, afterward relented so far 
as to send him to France, and then to 
enter him at Lincoln's Inn as a law-stu- 
dent. While settling an estate in Ire- 
land, he again met Loe, and resumed 
the strict quaker practices ; so that, on 
his return home, he refused to take off* 
his hat in the presence of his father, and 
even before the king ; for which he was 
again turned upon the world. He be- 
gan to preach and write in 1668. He 
was iinprisoned in the Tower and New- 
gate, but soon was left, by his father's 
will, in possession of an estate worth 
c£l,500 a-year. 

In 1667, he married, and devoted him- 
self to the defence and promotion of his 
favorite doctrines. Ten years after, he 
visited the continent with Fox and Bar- 
clay, and soon after received fro*-", the 
king a grant of the country whose inter- 
esting history and condition we have 
been contemplating. 

The following minute account of 
the burial-place of William Penn, &c., 
is taken from the English " Historical 
Register ;" — 

The Grave of the Founder of Pennsyl- 
vania. — The traveller, in passing from 
Beaconsfield to the neighboring village 
of Chalfont St. Giles, in Bucks, passes a 
small enclosure on the right-hand side 



'Tl 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



251 



of the road, known as the friends' or 
Jourdan's burial-ground. But though 
no monumental stone attracts attention, 
and the sunken graves, hidden in the tall 
grass, escape the passing glance of a 
stranger, it well deserves to be recorded 
as the resting-place of William Penn, 
the founder of Pennsylvania. 

A fragment, supposed to have been 
written by one of the vicars of Penn, a 
village not far from Chalfont, deriving 
its name from the ancestors of William 
Penn, who possessed the manor at a 
very remote period, is still preserved in 
the register of that place, and presents 
a cui'ious record of the occupiers of the 
principal graves. 





1 


2 


3 4 


5 


6 


7 


8 9 


10 


11 


12 


13 14 



No. 1. Letitia, daughter of Wm. Penn. 

2. Springett, son of William Penn. 

3. Margarette Frame and her son 

Thomas, in the same grave, 
daughter of William Penn. 

4. John Penn, son of William, gov- 

ernor of Pennsylvania. 

5. The great William Penn, with his 

second wife upon his leaden 
coffin. Prince Butterfield re- 
members his second wife being 
buried, and seeing the leaden 
coffin of William, whose head 
lies contrary to the rest, with 
his feet to the north. 

6. Giulielma, daughter of Sir Wil- 

liam Springett, first wife of 
William Penn. 

7. Isaac Pennington's wife, the wid- 

ow of Sir William Springett, of 
Darling, in Sussex. 

8. Isaac Pennington, an able lawyer, 

who married the widow of Sir 
William Springett, mother to 
William Penn's first wife. 

9. Joseph Rule, a man that used to 

go about London preaching, in 
a white coat and a long white 
beard. 



Nos. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. William Penn's 

younger children. 

Seven graves from the hedge, in a line 
above William Penn, lies Thomas El- 
wood, who used to read to Milton, and 
lived on Hanger hill. On his left hand, 
nearer the hedges, lies his wife. 

Exti-act from the Register, Sept. 12, 
called by the friends " eighth month :" — 
" Our friend William Penn, of Waltham- 
stow, in the county of Essex, and Giuli- 
elma Maria Springett, of Tilerend green, 
in the pai'ish of Penn, in the county of 
Bucks, proposed their intentions of mar- 
riage at the monthly-meeting at Hanger 
hill." 

Prince Butterfield, the person already 
mentioned as having seen Penn's leaden 
coffin at the burial of his second wife, 
was the man who had the care of the 
burial-ground, and who died between 
thirty and forty years ago. Many 
"friends" have been interred within the 
enclosure, besides those here mentioned ; 
but about fifteen years since it was found 
too full to admit any others, and the 
ground has remained undisturbed. In 
J. Whyth's supplement to the " History 
of the Life of Thomas Elwood," pub- 
lished in 1714, is an account of his great 
services to the society of friends. It is 
added, that " he departed this life on the 
1st of the third month, 1713, and was 
honorably buried in the friends' burying- 
place at New Jourdan." This Elwood 
was the great friend of the poet Milton, 
and suggested to him the idea of writing 
" Paradise Regained." 

In concluding this brief description 
of Pennsylvania, we may appropriately 
introduce the following summary of 
some of the improvements and inven- 
tions which have distinguished this state 
and people. It is abridged from the 
North Ameiican newspaper: — 

The quadrant was here invented by 
Godfrey ; here Franklin taught men 
how to control the lightnings of heaven; 
on the Delaware, at Philadelphia, John 
Fitch first proved the power of his rude 
steamboat ; Fulton, a native of Penn- 
sylvania, immortalized his name by ma- 
turing that wonderful invention ; the 
first locomotive was set in motion near 
the corner of Ninth and Market streets, 



252 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



by its inventor, Oliver Evans, who, with 
the foresight so often noticed as a chai-- 
acteristic of great discoverers, declared 
that the time would come when one 
would " breakfast in New York, dine at 
Philadelphia, and sup at Baltimore;" 
here was the first bank established in 
the country, and the first insurance of- 
fice ; here was organized the first sab- 
bath-school, an honor, surely, to be ap- 
preciated throughout the Union ; Phil- 
adelphia first showed us what might be 
done in supplying cities with water, by 
her astonishing Fairraount water-works ; 
in her eastern penitentiary, she furnished 
a model for institutions of that class, 
which has been extensively approved 
and imitated, both in this country and 
in Europe. The first public hospital in 
the United States was the Pennsylvania 
hospital ; the first institution for the 
blind was that established in this city. 
Here, too, before the Revolution, the 
great discovery which has given us the 
magnetic telegraph, led Franklin to give 
signals by electricity across the Schuyl- 
kill. 

The merchants of Philadelphia, at an 
early period, built a frigate and present- 
ed it to the United States government, 
the only instance of the kind on record ; 
and the state of Pennsylvania erected a 
house in Philadelphia, and offered it as 
a present to Washington. Here, also, 
a stand was taken against the exactions 
of Great Britain, in advance of Boston 
herself; and the first opposition to the 
landing of tea was made at a public 
meeting held in Philadelphia, some 
weeks before the celebrated tea-party 
executed its work at Boston ; and from 
Philadelphia came forth the Declaration 
of Independence. 

But the part which Pennsylvania has 
taken in the great works of internal im- 
provements needs to be better under- 
stood. The turnpike from Philadelphia 
to Lancaster was the first undertaken in 
the Union, and was completed in 1794, 
at a cost of $465, OCO. Subsequently, 
the whole surface of the state was trav- 
ersed by these roads. 

The Schuylkill " permanent bridge," 
erected in 1798, at an expense of three 
hundred thousand dollars, was the first 



great work of the kind attempted in this 
country. The first Fairmount bridge, 
with its span of 348i feet, outrivalling 
the famous bridge of Shauffhausen, and 
the wire-bridge, erected in 1817, at the 
falls of the Schuylkill, which served to 
suggest the idea to European builders, 
were an honor to Philadelphia. The 
bridges in the interior, by their substan- 
tial, and even bold chaz'acter, have done 
honor to the state. 

For the introduction of canals, as well 
as turnpikes, the country is indebted to 
Pennsylvania. Even William Penn ap- 
pears to have meditated on the project 
of connecting the Susquehannah with 
the Schuylkill ; and, in 1762, David Rit- 
j tenhouse and Dr. William Smith sur- 
I veyed a canal-route for the purpose. At 
' that early day, these gentlemen had in 
! view the connecting of the lakes and the 
Ohio river with the Delaware, by a route 
of nearly six hundred miles. The sur- 
vey, under the authority of the legisla- 
; ture of Pennsylvania, was accomplished 
in 1769. In 1791, a company was in- 
corporated for connecting the Susque- 
hannah and Schuylkill ; and in 1792, 
! another was incorporated for connecting 
the Schuylkill with the Delaware, by the 
way of Norristown. At the head of the 
latter was Robert Morris, the celebrated 
financier. These two companies under- 
I took the work, and proceeded far with 
it, when, having expended $440,000, they 
I were embarrassed, and suspended oper- 
ations. These beginnings, however, re- 
sulted at length iti the completion of the 
Union canal. The first tunnels excava- 
; ted in the Union were in Pennsylvania. 
The first survey for the Chesapeake and 
Delaware canal was made in 1769, by 
order of the American Philosophical so- 
ciety, and as early as 1804, one hundred 
thousand dollars were expended in the 
execution of the work. 

When the period of railroads arrived, 
Pennsylvania was again the pioneei". 
The railroad at Mauch Chunk was the 
first in the Union, excepting only a short 
tram-road in Massachusetts. From that 
period to the present, Pennsylvania has 
been second to no state in the Union, in 
expenditures for constructing these won- 
derful annihilators of time and space. 




This state is bounded on the 
north by Chester and Delaware 
counties in Pennsylvania, on the 
northeast by Delaware bay, on the 
southeast by the Atlantic ocean, 
on the south by Worcester and 
Somerset counties in Maryland, 
and on the west by part of the 
same state, viz. : Dorchester, Car- 
oline, Queen Ann, Kent, and Cecil 
counties. It lies along the Atlan- 
tic coast twenty miles, from Cape 
Henlopen to Fenwick island. The 
entire outline is two hundred and 
fifty-nine miles ; length, one hun- 
dred miles ; mean breadth, twenty- 
one miles ; area, two thousand one hundred square miles. It lies between 38^ 
27' and 39° 50' north latitude, and 1° 17' and 20° 0' east longitude from the city 
of Washington. 

The state occupies a long and narrow plane, with a gentle eastern slope to the 
Atlantic and the bay, with a higher and more uneven region in the north. The 
upper portion has a waving rather than a hilly surface, and the southern is nearly 
a dead level. The eastern slope is drained by several small rivers, viz. : Indian, 
Broadkill, Cedar, Mispohan, Motherkill, Jones, Duck, Apoquinimink, Brandy- 
wine, &c. 

Delaware contains only three counties — Newcastle in the north, Sussex in the 
south, and Kent between them. The population in 1790 was 59,094 ; in ISOO, 
64,273; in 1810, 72,674; in 1820,72,749; in 1830, 76,748; in 1840, 78,085; in 
1850,90,407. Settlements wei-e commenced at an early date within the territory 
of this state. Under the patronage of Gustavus Adolphus, king of Sweden, a few 



254 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 



feeble colonies were founded here in 
1627, before any other Europeans had 
attempted to occupy the soil. The coun- 
try received the name of New Sweden, 
and the settlers were Swedes and Fin- 
landers. They settled along the shores 
of Delaware bay, but were reduced in 
1655 by the Dutch, and again in 1664 
by the English. Charles II. included 
the territory in the grant which he made 
to the duke of York, by whom it was con- 
veyed to William Penn, in 1682. For 
several particulars in respect to this part 
of the history of Delaware, the reader 
is referred to the description of Penn- 
sylvania. 

Delaware had a colonial assembly in 
1704, which met at Newcastle, although 
the territory nominally belonged to 
Pennsylvania until 1775. The people 
took an early and active part in the rev- 
olution ; and many of their militia fell 
in the unfortunate battle of Long Island, 
in 1776, when the British army obtained 
possession of New York. She adopted 
a constitution as a state in that year ; 
and the constitution of the United States 
was adopted by a convention on the 12th 
of June, 1792. Although the smallest 
state in the Union, it has been honorably 
distinguished by men of ability and high 
character in the national government. 
The present constitution was adopted 
in 1831. 

The governor is elected for four years, 
but can not be reelected. The senate con- 
sists of three members from each county, 
chosen for four years. The house of 
representatives consists of seven mem- 
bers from each county, elected for two 
years. The sessions of the legislature 
are biennial, commencing on the first 
Tuesday in January. 

Every male citizen who is twenty-one 
years of age, and has been a resident in 
the state one year, and in the county 
one month, next preceding the day of 
election, and has paid a tax, is a voter. 
If he is between twenty-one and twen- 
ty-two years of age, the payment of the 
tax is not necessary. 

The courts of Delaware are a court 
of error and appeals, a superior court, a 
court of chancery, an orphans* court, a 
court of oyer and terminer, a court of 



general sessions of the peace, and such 
courts as the general assembly may from 
time to time establish. There are five 
judges to compose these several courts, 
whom the governor appoints. They 
hold office during good behavior. The 
superior court consists of the chief-jus- 
tice and the two associate-justices, who 
do not reside in the county where the 
court is held ; and the court of sessions 
is composed in the same manner. The 
court of oyer and terminer consists of 
all the judges except the chancellor; 
and the orphans' court, of the chancellor 
and the resident judge of the county. 

Delaware College, situated at Newark, 
Newcastle county, is the only higher in- 
stitution of learning in the state. Com- 
mencement is held on the 4th Wednes- 
day in September. 

There are twenty academies and about 
one hundred and fifty common schools, 
with a school-fund of #170,000. 

The Chesapeake and Delaware Canal 
was constructed at great expense, and in 
spite of many discouragements, over one 
of the most unfavorable tracts of ground 
ever crossed by a work of that kind. It 
was intended to open a channel of sloop- 
navigation between Delaware city, on 
Delaware river, and the Chesapeake ; 
and the work was successfully accom- 
plished in a few years. It is thirteen 
miles in length, and lies chiefly in Dela- 
ware, but partly in Maryland. It is 
sixty-six feet wide on the surface of the 
water, and ten feet deep. 

Pi'inting was first introduced into this 
state in 1761, by James Adams, who then 
commenced the publication of a news- 
paper, called " the Wilmington Cour- 
ant," which ceased in six months. No 
other newspaper was published in the 
colony before the revolutionary war. 

The Delaware Breahwater. — About 
twenty years ago, the construction of 
a breakwater was commenced, by the 
United States government at the mouth 
of Delaware bay, at Cape Henlopen, 
designed to afford protection to vessels 
passing that exposed part of the coast 
in stormy weather. The mouth of the 
bay is twelve or thirteen miles wide, 
and exposed to the full force of the 
waves of the ocean, which, in an east- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 



255 



erly storm, are extremely violent, being 
unchecked by the neighboring land, 
which is too low to offer any resistance 
to the wind, or any protection from the 
surges, as they sweep in from the open 
sea. The ice which floats down the 
river is sometimes not less dangerous to 
vessels. The breakwater is formed ac- 
cording to the principles of science, and 
is an immense work, of stone brought 
from a great distance, and composing a 
solid wall with sides standing at an an- 
gle, best calculated to withstand and de- 
stroy the force of the waves on the one 
hand, and the fields of ice on the other. 
As the number of vessels employed in 
the navigation of the bay is very great 
and annually increasing, and the coast- 
ers and foreign ships occasionally ex- 
posed to risk of loss on this part of the 
coast, in easterly storms, are also very 
numerous, the value of such a work may 
be appreciated, when it is borne in mind 
that there is no other place of refuge 
within a gi'eat distance. 

Even in moderate weather the break- 
water often affords to many vessels the 
conveniences of a good harbor, when 
the state of the wind or of the ice for- 
bids the passage from the bay to the 
ocean, or from the ocean up the bay. 

Cape Henlopen, which forms the south- 
ern point of Delaware bay, is in latitude 
38^ 45' and longitude 10=" 53' east from 
Washington. 

Wilmington. — This town is situated 
one mile above the junction of Brandy- 
wine and Christiana creeks, twenty-eight 
miles southwest from Philadelphia, for- 
ty-seven north from Dover, and one 
hundred and eight northeast from Wash- 
ington city. It is built on the dividing 
line between the primitive region and 
the alluvion, which lie in juxtaposition 
through most of the middle and south- 
era Atlantic states, Wilmington, in 
this respect, resembles Philadelphia, 
Baltimore, Georgetown, Richmond, and 
several smaller towns ; but owing to the 
greater depression of the western rocky 
range in Delaware, Wilmington has less 
variety of scenery in its neighborhood 
than most of them. 

Brandy wine river, however, at a short 
distance from the town, is precipitated 



over a precipice, of such height that it 
affords many mill sites of great value, 
which have long been employed to great 
advantage. Numerous manufactories of 
large size crowd the banks of the stream, 
most of which are flourmills ; the grind- 
ing of wheat is also carried on to a great 
extent, and with such skill that they have 
long been among the best in the Union, 
and have done much to render the flour 
manufactured there highly celebrated. 

Sawmills, papermills, cotton and wool- 
len factories, &c., stand also upon the 
same stream. 

Wilmington is governed by two bur- 
gesses and six assistants. It stands upon 
a long and gentle elevation, upon the 
ridge of which lies the principal street, 
which is wide and straight. 

The principal public buildings are the 
cityhall, the almshouse, the arsenal, two 
markethouses, three banks, the public li- 
brary, sixteen churches, nine academies, 
and the friends' female boarding-school. 
The population is at present fourteen 
thousand. 

The Philadelphia and Baltimore rail- 
road lies through this town, and affords 
communication with both those cities 
twice a day. 

The Brandywine Springs. — This place 
is much resorted to by visiters, for health 
and pleasure, in the summer months. It 
is five miles from Wilmington. 

Dover. — This town, the capital of the 
state, and county-town of Kent county, 
is situated on the right bank of Jones's 
creek, ten miles from its mouth in Dela- 
ware bay. The streets are straight, 
broad, and laid out regularly, and a large 
public square is in the middle of the town, 
where the statehouse and several other 
public buildings are placed to great ad- 
vantage. There are three churches, one 
bank, and an academy. A monument 
has been erected to the memory of Col. 
John Haslett, who fell at the battle of 
Princeton, in the revolutionary war. 

There is a communication with Wil- 
mington daily by stagecoaches, and with 
Snowhill (Maryland) three times a week. 
It is in latitude 39° 09' and longitude 
1*^ 28' east of Washington. 

Newark stands on Christiana creek, 
and is twelve miles southwest-by-west 



256 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF DELAWAilE. 



from Wilmington, fifty-two north-north- 
west from Dover, and one hundred and 
thirteen north-northeast from Washing- 
ton. It contains three churches, the 
college, an academy, and about eight 
hundx'ed inhabitants. 

Dclaioare College is situated in this 
town. It was founded in the year 1833, 
and received an endowment of $100,000 
from the state. It has a president, four 
professors, one tutor, and about fifty 
students. The first building of the col- 
lege was erected in 1833, for eighty 
students, since which time it has been 
doubled in size. The centre is three 
stories high, with a basement, and the 
wings three stories ; whole front, one 
hundred and eighty feet. 

Newcastle. — This town, the former 
capital of the state, is situated on the 
west side of Delaware river, and is the 
site of the old Dutch fort Caslmir, and 
of the village of Nieu Amstel, or New- 
Amsterdam, founded by the Hollanders. 
The public buildings are the courthouse, 
townhouse, arsenal, five churches, the 
academy, and the public library contain- 
ing four thousand volumes. The popu- 
lation is about three thousand two hun- 
dred. 

Lewes, on Delaware bay, is a post- 
town in SrfSsex county, one hundred 
miles northeast-by-east from Washing- 
ton. It is one of the early settlements, 
and its appearance is that of antiquity, 
the houses being old and shingled with 
cedar. 

The Ocean House, in this town, is a 
respectable hotel, for the accommoda- 
tion of pleasure-parties, often visiting 
the place. 

Delaware City. — The town is situ- 
ated on Delaware river, at the beginning 
of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal. 
It is thirty-two miles north from Dover, 
and opposite Peapatch island, on which 
is situated Fort Delaware, 

MiLFORD, sixty-eight miles from Wil- 
mington, stands on Mispillion creek. It 
has three academies and two churches, 
and contains about nine hundred inhab- 
itants. 

Georgetown is eighty-eight miles 
from Wilmington, and near the head- 
streams of Indian river. It contains 



about four hundred inhabitants, a court- 
house, an academy, a bank, &c. There 
is a communication three times a week 
with Wilmington by stagecoaches. 

Delaware, in several respects, bears 
a resemblance to the other two of the 
smallest states, Rhode Island and New 
Jersey : lying on the main route of 
ti-avel and transportation near the At- 
lantic border, and deriving only a sec- 
ondary advantage from the vast quan- 
tities of merchandise which annually 
pass through it on the way from larger 
states adjoining : yet, availing herself of 
the facilities which nature has afforded 
her in her narrow territory, she pro- 
vides employment for the streams as 
they pour over her rocks, and use for 
her navigable waters. The chief of the 
latter is Delaware bay, which is the 
scene of an immense amount of trade, 
chiefly with Philadelphia, and much of 
it in coal. The channels are unfortu- 
nately winding and difficult. 

The County of Newcastle, which em- 
braces the northern part of the state, is 
bounded north by Delaware county in 
Pennsylvania, east by Delaware river 
which separates it from Salem county 
(N. J.), south by Kent county in Dela- 
ware, southwest by Kent county in 
Maryland, west by Cecil county in Ma- 
ryland, northwest by Chester county in 
Pennsylvania. It is thirty-eight miles 
long from north to south, and twelve 
miles mean breadth, with an area of 
four hundred and fifty-six square miles. 
The county lies between latitude 29° 18' 
and 30° 50', and between longitude 1° 
17' and 1° 38' east from Washington. 
The boundary between Delaware and 
Maryland lies along the ridge of land 
which divides the waters of the Chesa- 
peake from those of the Delaware ; and 
hence, as might be presumed, Newcas- 
tle county has a gentle slope from west 
to east. 

Brandywine creek, with its various 
branches, drains the northern part of 
the county, and, flowing almost to Wil- 
mington, falls into the Delaware. Be- 
low this stream are the Apoquinimink, 
Blackbird, and Duck creeks, the last 
of which forms the boundary of Kent 
county. In this county is that part of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 



257 



the Chesapeake and Delaware canal 
which we have noticed elsewhere. It 
extends to Elk river, a tributary of the 
Chesapeake. The principal excavation 
on the route is three and a half miles in 
length, and at the deepest part seventy- 
six and a half feet. 

Some of the lower parts of Newcastle 
county, near the Delaware, are low and 
marshy ; but at some distance the sur- 
face becomes irregular and even hilly 
in the north. The soil is generally fer- 
tile, and produces grain, grass, and fruit. 
The ti'ibutaries of the Brandywine have 
so much descent as to afford many 
good mill-seats ; and various manufacto- 
ries are carried on in the interior of the 
county. 

Kent County is bounded on the north 
by Newcastle county, on the east by 
Delaware river, on the south by Sussex 
county, and on the west by three coun- 
ties of Maryland, viz. : Caroline, Queen 
Ann, and Sussex. It lies between lati- 
tude 38° 50' and 39° 20', and between 
longitude 1° 18' and 1° 50' east from 
Washington. Nearly the whole surface 
of this county has a slope east toward 
Delaware bay, and here are the follow- 
ing creeks, viz. : Mispillion, Motherkill, 
Jones's, and the two Duck creeks. A 
small part of the western border slopes 
westward, and is watered by the head- 
springs of the Choptank and Nanticoke 
rivers. The surface is but slightly va- 
ried, and the soil of middling quality. 
The length of the county is thirty-two 
miles, the mean breadth twenty, and the 
ai'ea six hundred and forty square miles. 

Sussex County is bounded north by 
Kent county, northeast by Delaware 
bay, east by the Atlantic ocean, south 
by Worcester county (Md.), southwest 
by Somerset county (Md.), west by Dor- 
chesier county (Md.), and northwest by 
Caroline county (Md.) It is thirty-five 
miles long from east to west, the mean 
breadth twenty-five, and the ai'ea eight 
hundred and seventy-five square miles. 
It lies between latitude 38° 27' and 
38° 58', and longitude 1« 14' and 1° 58' 
east. Most of the county is table-land, 
with some parts marshy; and streams 
flow from it toward all the points of the 
compass. From the northeast flow sev- 



eral creeks into Delaware bay, east the 
tributaries of Rehoboth bay, south those 
of Pocomoke, and southwest those of 
Nanticoke. 

Among the men distinguished in the 
revolutionary periods of the history of 
this state was Caesar Rodney ; and some 
of the most interesting events connected 
with the important circumstances of 
those times may be here appropriately 
introduced, in an outline of his biog- 
raphy. 

His grandfather came to this country 
from England in the days of Penn, and, 
after a short residence in Pennsylvania, 
settled in Kent county (Delaware). His 
youngest son, Caesar, inherited his es- 
tate, which was large, and married the 
daughter of the Rev. Thomas Crawford, 
who is said to have been the first clergy- 
man in that part of the country. Caesar 
Rodney, the subject of the present 
sketch — a distinguished statesman of 
Delaware, and one of the signers of the 
Declaration of Independence — was born 
about the year 1730, and, according to 
the law of entailment then existing in 
that state, became heir of the family 
estate. At the age of twenty-eight, he 
was appointed high sheriff" of the county 
of Kent, after which he was a justice 
of the peace and judge of the inferior 
courts. 

There are no records of the legislature 
of Delaware in existence, of an earlier 
date than 1762, and therefore it has 
been found impossible to ascertain when 
Mr. Rodney commenced his career as a 
legislator. He was a representative for 
his native county at that time, and was 
one of the most prominent members, 
being appointed as a colleague with Mr. 
M'Kean, to transact some business of 
importance with the government. 

In the time of the stamp-act, much 
excitement was caused in Delaware; 
and in 1763 the members of the assem- 
bly held a meeting, during the recess 
of the chamber, and appointed delegates 
to attend a congress at New York, for 
consultation on measures to be taken 
for the general good of the colonies. 
They unanimously appointed Messrs. 
RodTiey, M'Kean, aiid Kollock, and the 
speaker gave them explicit instructions. 



17 



258 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF DELAWARE. 



The delegates attended, and, after their 
return, received a unanimous expres- 
sion of thanks for their services. From 
that period until the close of the war, 
Mr. Rodney, with his two associates 
first named, continued to be the most 
conspicuous and influential men in Del- 
aware, in opposing the policy of Great 
Britain, and in sustaining the cause of 
America. Several circumstances ren- 
dered their situation very difficult and 
dangerous. The country was exposed 
to invasion, especially by the ships of 
the enemy, and a large proportion of 
the people were either favorable to the 
British government or undecided in their 
preference for the American. Among 
other creditable exertions made by him 
in the legislature of Delaware, he in- 
troduced an amendment into a bill, de- 
signed to prohibit the slave-trade, which 
was lost by only two votes. 

An attack of cancer in the cheek com- 
pelled him to seek medical aid by a 
residence in Philadelphia, after he had 
abandoned a previous design of going 
to Europe. He was made speaker of 
the house of assembly in 1769, and held 
that office several years ; and he also 
performed the duties of chairman of the 
committee of correspondence, formed to 
promote harmony of views and action 
throughout the country. 

On the 1st of August, 1774, an assem- 
bly of delegates met at Newcastle, in 
compliance with an invitation sent by 
him, as speaker of the house of dele- 
gates, to determine what measures to 
adopt in the existing crisis ; he was 
chosen chairman of the meeting ; and 
then, in company with Messrs. M'Kean 
and Read, was appointed to constitute 
the Delaware delegation to the Amei'i- 
can congress at Philadelphia. He took 
his seat in that body on the fifth of Sep- 
tember, and the next day was made a 
member of the grand committee, whose 
business it was to state what were the 
rights of the colonies, and when and 
how they had been violated. The con- 
duct of the Delaware delegation re- 
ceived the unanimous approval of their 
legislature on their return, and Mr. Rod- 
ney was appointed a delegate to the 
succeeding congress. He soon after 



received the appointment of brigadier- 
general of Delaware, and not long after- 
ward appeared in the field, at the time 
of an invasion of the territory. 

Though the presence of Mr. Rodney 
was deemed highly necessary at home, 
in the midst of the important and try- 
ing scenes of the day, he was present in 
congress at the time when the question 
of independence was decided, and was 
one of its most ardent advocates. On 
his return, his conduct again received 
the approbation of the legislature. In 
the autumn of that year (1776), however, 
by the exertions of his opponents, his 
reelection to congress was defeated, as 
well as that of Mr. M'Kean ; and he 
spent the succeeding year at home, at- 
tending to his private affairs and to the 
duties of the committees of inspection 
and of safety, to which he belonged. 

Colonel Haslet, who belonged to his 
brigade, having fallen at the battle of 
Princeton, General Rodney set out to 
join the Delaware troops in New Jer- 
sey, but on his way was ordered by 
Lord Stirling to remain at Princeton to 
forward troops to the army ; after the 
performance of which duties he was per- 
mitted to return home, by a highly com- 
plimentary letter from General Wash- 
ington. 

He was then appointed a judge of 
the supreme court, under the constitu- 
tion of Delaware, which be declined ; 
and was soon after called into the field 
to quell an insurrection in the county 
of Sussex. 

The invasion by the British army a 
little later again occupied him, and he 
marched with the militia of his county, 
and stationed himself south of the Amer- 
ican line, at the command of Washing- 
ton, to intercept the way between the 
enemy and their fleet. But his raw 
troops, in a few hours, returned to their 
homes in spite of his effiirts. 

After this he was elected governor of 
the state, and held the office four years, 
although the fluctuations of parties were 
frequent and strong. After that period 
he declined public offices, as his health 
had become greatly impaired ; and he 
fell a victim of the cancer early in the 
vear 1783. 



DESCRIPTION OF THB STATE OF DELAWARE. 



259 



The following extract from the pre- 
amble to the constitution of the Medical 
society of Delaware, published in 1789, 
is interesting on account of its early 
date : — 

" The physicians of the Delaware 
state had long regretted their uncon- 
nected situation. Despairing to obtain 
scnne of the most important objects of 
their profession while thus detached 
from one another, and convinced that 
experience has uniformly attested the 
advantages of literary association, they 
lately presented a memorial to the hon- 
orable legislature on that subject. Af- 
ter duly considering the application, the 
general assembly, for the liberal pur- 
pose of fostering the intei'est of science, 
granted a charter of incorporation to a 
number of the said physicians and their 
successors for ever, and the name and 
style of ' the president and fellows of 
the medical society of the Delaware 
state.' 

" The object of this society is to an- 
imate and unite its respective members 
in the arduous work of cultivating the 
science of medicine, and its auxiliary 
branches ; with an especial view to its 
practical use, the alleviating of human 
misery, the diminution of mortality, and 
the cure of diseases. To accomplish 
this interesting purpose, they will dii"ect 
their endeavors — to investigate the en- 
demical diseases of our country ; to 
trace their effects on its aboriginal in- 
habitants, and the successive changes 
they have undergone, in the progress 
of society from rudeness to refinement; 
to remark the general operations of po- 
litical, moral, and natural causes on the 
human body and its diseases ; and, par- 
ticularly, observe and record the effects 
of different seasons, climates, and situa- 
tions, and the changes produced in dis- 
eases by the progress of science, com- 
merce, agriculture, arts, population, and 
manners ; to explore the animal, vegeta- 
ble, and mineral kingdoms, and every ac- 
cessible department of nature, in search 
of the means of enriching and simplify- 
ing our materia medica ; to extend the 
substitution of our indigenous for exotic 
remedies ; to rescue from oblivion, and 
collect for public view, the fugitive ob- 



servations of intelligent physicians ; to 
confer honorary rewards on the efforts 
of genius and industry ; to superintend 
the education of medical students, and 
connect with the elements of medicine 
an adequate knowledge of all the kindred 
and subservient sciences ; to enlarge our 
sources of knowledge, by imparting and 
disseminating the discoveries and publi- 
cations of foreign countries ; to corre- 
spond with learned societies and indi- 
viduals ; to appoint stated times for lit- 
erary intercourse and communications ; 
to cultivate harmony and liberality among 
the practitioners of medicine ; and, final- 
ly, to promote regularity and uniformity 
in the practice of physic." 

A quorum of the fellows of the so- 
ciety having assembled at Dover on 
Tuesday, May 12, 1789, the constitution 
was adopted, and the following officei's 
were appointed : — 

James Tilton, M.D., president. 

Jonas Preston, M.D., vice-president. 

Nicholas Way, M. D., 

Matthew Wilson, D.D., 

Dr. Joshua Clayton, 

Dr. Nathaniel Luff, 

Edward Miller, M. D., secretary. 

Dr. James Sykes, treasurer. 

The following brief but honorable 
remarks on the condition and prospects 
of Delawai'e, were published in the 
American Museum, in 1789, under the 
head of an " Epitome of the present 
state of the Union : — 

" Delaware, ninety-two miles in length 
and twenty three broad by a census in 
1790, contained fifty nine thousand 
inhabitants. This state, though circum- 
scribed in its limits, derives great im- 
portance from its rank in the Union. 
Attached to the new constitution, and 
having the honor to take the lead in its 
adoption, there is no doubt of its giving 
efficacy to its righteous administration." 

This state is, as we have before I'e- 
marked, the smallest in the Union with 
respect to population ; and also in ter- 
ritory excepting Rhode Island. 

According to the last census, the pop- 
ulation of Delaware was 91,407; that 
of Rhode Island 147,543. The area of 
Delaware is 2.120 square miles ; that of 
Rhode Island, 1,360 square miles. 




This state is bounded west 
and northwest by Pennsylvania, 
east by Delaware, southeast by 
the eastern shore of Virginia 
and the Atlantic ocean, south by 
Chesapeake bay, southwest by 
Potomac river (which separates 
it from Virginia), west by Vir- 
ginia, and northwest by Penn- 
sylvania. The outline is re- 
markably crooked, and, in the 
western part of the state, the Po- 
tomac, which forms the southern 
boundary, approaches so near 
to the Pennsylvania line (the 
northern boundaiy) that it leaves but a narrow belt, giving the map a peculiar 
appearance. 

It lies between latitude 38° and 39° 43', and longitude 1° 56' and 2° 24' west 
from Washington. The whole area of the state, notwithstanding the length of 
its tortuous outline, is only 9,356 square miles, of which the eastern shore con- 
tains 3,084. The chief part of the population — with the cities, commerce, and 
improvement — is west of the Chesapeake. The state, in 1850, contained 582,922 
inhabitants. The eastern shore, by its situation, is cut off from intercourse and 
connexion with the neighboring regions, almost as effectually as if it were an 
island. The surface is sandy and but little elevated above the ocean, and desti- 
tute of hills and of most other advantages. 

Those portions of the territory near the ocean and the bay are generally level 
and low ; but the surface rises in the interior, and the middle and western part.«j 
are crossed by the Allegany ridges. Of these the Blue ridge is most easterly, 



and forms a long, uniform, and gentle, 
but elevated, swell across the state. 
Grain and grass grow well in the west- 
ern counties. Valuable mines of iron 
and coal are wrought in several places ; 
manufactui^es are carried on with suc- 
cess along some of the streams ; the fish- 
eries in the bay and its tributaries are val- 
uable ; and commerce is i-endered very 
active by the aid of railroads, steam- 
boats, and vessels of all descriptions. 
The building of swift-sailing vessels has 
been carried to the highest degree of 
perfection, especially in Baltimore. 

The Potomac river, which forms so 
large a part of the southern boundary of 
this state, is five hundred and fifty miles 
in length, and navigable for ships of the 
largest size to Washington. The canal, 
which extends from the falls at George- 
town almost to its head, makes it navi- 
gable for boats through a great part of 
its length, and approaches near the west- 
ern states. The Susquehanna empties 
in Maryland, and is connected with Bal- 
timore by artificial means. 

The Patapsco is a small river, but of 
great importance, being navigable four- 
teen miles, and having the city of Bal- 
timore at the head of navigation, where 
its waters form a fine harbor, with shores 
on one side sloping conveniently for 
streets and wharves, and on the other 
high and pi-ecipitous, and well adapted 
for defence. 

The Patuxent is one hundred and ten 
miles long, and navigable fifty miles for 
vessels of two hundred and fifty tons. 
Beside these are the Elk river, the Sas- 
safras, Chester, Choptank, Nanticoke, 
and Pocomoke. 

Chesapeake bay is two hundred and 
seventy miles in length, and differs in 
breadth from seven to twenty miles, sud- 
denly expanding from one to the other. 
It contains numerous islands, and is re- 
markable for the number of coves, in- 
lets, and sinuosities of its borders, which 
afford access to the water in a thousand 
places. There is abundance of fish and 
wild-fowl ; and among the latter canvass- 
back duck is most celebrated, being 
justly esteemed and preferred above all 
other water-birds for its rich and delicate 
flavor. These birds aro shot in great 



numbers in the autumn, and are in great 
demand, even in the markets of Phila- 
delphia and New York. 

Pocomoke bay is a cove of the Ches- 
apeake, lying below the mouth of Nan- 
ticoke river. Northwest from it lie 
Tangier island and Tangier sound, lead- 
ing into Fishing bay. Above the mouth 
of Nanticoke river a peninsula projects 
far into the Chesapeake, forming the 
county of Dorchester ; and on the oppo- 
site side this is bounded by Choptank 
bay, which, in its turns, separates it from 
Talbot county. This county is much 
cut up by several coves, inlets, &c., as 
Treadhaven bay, Broad bay, and St. 
Michael's bay. Beyond lies another of 
these remarkable arms of the Chesa- 
peake, viz., Chester bay, which separates 
the county of Queen Ann from that of 
Kent. Long as is this line of bay-coast, 
which we have thus described following 
its sinuosities, the whole of it is com- 
prehended in a single degree of latitude, 
lying between thirty-eight and thirty- 
nine degrees. 

Proceeding north from this latter 
point, Kent county is a peninsula of a 
semicircular form, lying between the 
rivers Chester and Sassafras ; and next 
Sassafras bay lie the two rivers North 
and Elk, beyond which we find the mouth 
of the Susquehanna, and the northern 
boundary of the state. 

All this part of this state, known as 
the eastern shore, may now be called an 
island, since the Delaware and Chesa- 
peake canal opens a complete, although 
an artificial, water-channel across the 
neck of the peninsula. It is remarkable 
that a much greater difference of climate 
exists on the eastern shore than the mere 
difference of latitude is sufficient to ac- 
count for. The lower part is so warm, 
that even cotton may be cultivated. 

The western part of the state is quite 
cold for so southern a parallel ; but this 
is very easily accounted for, as its eleva- 
tion is sufficient to render the temper- 
ature in winter equal to that of the 
Atlantic coast as high up as latitude 
forty-four degrees forty-three minutes. 
The elevated valleys in Allegany county, 
although very fertile, have a climate too 
cold for wheat. 



262 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



The want of intimate communication 
between these two parts of Maryland, 
and the semi-isolated situation of the 
counties and many of the towns of the 
former with respect to each other, are 
unfavorable to improvements of almost 
every kind, The productions of every 
neighborhood are brought to the shore 
of one of the innumerable little streams, 
inlets, or coves, which scollop the wind- 
ing coast of the Chesapeake, and shipped 
in small vessels running to different 
places; while the habits of the people, 
as well as the nature of the country, 
thus interrupted by water every few 
miles, render roads few and short. In- 
tercourse among the inhabitants is lim- 
ited ; there are no large towns ; and in- 
telligence languishes, with public spirit 
and enterprise, under the absence of the 
ordinary motives. Manufactures are not 
encouraged by any natural facilities ; 
and all these causes combined give the 
eastern shore of Maryland its marked 
characteristics. 

Of the three geographical sections into 
which Maryland is naturally divided, the 
eastern shore forms the first ; and this, as 
before remarked, has some peculiar fea- 
tures. The Chesapeake peninsula, of 
which it forms the westp'-n slope, from 
Pocomoke bay to the mouth of the Sus- 
quehanna, is a remarkable piece of land, 
lying between the Chesapeake and Del- 
aware bays, with a portion of its south- 
eastern border washed by the ocean. 
The narrow isthmus which naturally con- 
nects it with the continent has been ar- 
tificially cut through by the Chesapeake 
and Delaware canal, and thus the whole 
of this singular cape, or rather peninsu- 
la, may be said to have become an island. 
Measured from that point to its southern 
extremity — Cape Charles — it is one hun- 
dred and eighty-two miles in length ; 
and the general form is that of an oval, 
acuminate leaf, with numerous and ir- 
regular lobes and indentations on its 
margins. The south part, seventy miles 
long by eight or ten wide, belongs to 
Virginia ; the middle section belongs 
wholly to Maryland ; and the upper is 
divided between this state and Dela- 
ware. The widest part, near the mid- 
dle, is seventy miles across, the mean 



breadth of the whole about twenty miles, 
and the area 4,900 square miles. The 
surface is generally flat or gently undu- 
lated. The eastern border has a succes- 
sion of low, sandy islands and beaches, 
with shallow sounds, opening by narrow 
channels, and is destitute of considerable 
streams. 

The west side of the peninsula, on the 
contrary, has a number of rivers, of some 
size and depth, navigable for greater or 
less distances, and adding to the facilities 
afforded by the coves and inlets. 

The surface of western Maiyland has 
a general and gradual rise from the 
shores of Chesapeake bay to the sources 
of the Potomac, about two thousand feet ; 
but the intermediate regions are in sev- 
eral places diversified by hills and moun- 
tainous elevations, chiefly the ridges of 
the Alleganies. The Blue ridge, how- 
ever, like some of the others, presents 
a uniform swell, generally so gradual 
as to leave the ground unbroken and 
covered with soil. In some other west- 
ern parts of the state the rocks protrude, 
and considerable tracts are unfit for cul- 
tivation. There, however, the mineral 
treasures of iron and coal abound, to 
such a degree as to make great amends 
for the want of arable soil. 

The following results of observations 
made at the White cottage, near Sandy 
spring, in 1829 and 1830, will show the 
mean temperature : From the winter 
solstice to the vernal equinox, 28.39 ; ver- 
nal equinox to summer solstice, 58.22 ; 
summer solstice to autumnal equinox, 
69.21 ; autumnal equinox to winter sol- 
stice, 46.96. The following year the 
mean temperature at the corresponding 
periods was as follows: 35.63; 58.14; 
71.46; 49.23. 

History. — The first permanent set- 
tlement was made in the territory of this 
state at St. Mary's, in the year 1631, un- 
der William Claibourn, on Kent island. 
The charter granted to Lord Baltimore 
(Cecilius Calvert) was dated June 20, 
1632. He was a convert to the church 
of Rome, and early proclaimed religious 
toleration, although in direct opposition 
to the doctrine and practice of the 
popes and governments under their in- 
fluence down to the present day. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



263 



Maryland was named in honor of the 
queen, Henrietta Maria, daughter of 
Henry IV. of France ; and through the 
Roman catholic influence, which in some 
points was strong during her day, Lord 
Baltimore received an amount of power 
not conferred on the governors of New 
England or most of the other colonies. 
He was created sole proprietor of Ma- 
ryland, restricted by nothing save alle- 
giance to the crown. With the consent 
of the freemen, he could make laws and 
raise taxes; and he was to execute the 
laws of the assembly. The crown cov- 
enanted to impose no taxes on the col- 
onies, their goods or commodities ; and 
this exemption was to last forever, though 
in other colonies it was limited to a term 
of years. Maryland, as constituted un- 
der Lord Baltimore, was therefore a 
palatinate, the proprietary being invest- 
ed with all the royal rights of the palace, 
while the king held him and his domain 
only as a feudal sovereign. Colonists 
were promised all the liberties of Eng- 
lishmen-born. 

In November, 1633, the first body of 
emigrants sailed with Leonard Calvert, 
the first governor of the province. They 
consisted of about two hundred English 
gentlemen and many of their adherents. 
They went by the way of the West In- 
dies, and spent some time in Barbadoes 
and St. Christopher's, and did not reach 
the Chesapeake till the spring following, 
when, on the 27th of March, they landed 
on St. Mary's river. According to the 
custom of Rome, Calvert erected a cross 
and took formal possession of the coun- 
try, " for our Savior, and for our sov- 
ereign lord the king of England." 

He made proposals to the chief of the 
Indians, whom he found in the vicinity, 
to commence a settlement on amicable 
terms, with his consent. But he received 
for answer : " I will not bid you go, nei- 
ther will I bid you stay ; but you may 
use your own discretion." The confi- 
dence and friendship of the chief, how- 
ever, were at length gained ; and he 
exerted a pacific influence on some of 
the neighboring tribes, by which the 
feeble colony was secured from molesta- 
tion. A neighboring tract of land was 
purchased, in the native town of Yoco- 



moco, and the building of the capital com- 
menced, which was named St. Mary's. 
Among the first buildings were a guard- 
house and a storehouse, and corn was 
planted, to secure provisions for the col- 
onists. Not much time had elapsed after 
the landing, before they received a visit 
from the governor of Virginia, Sir John 
Harvey, who, like his people, regarded 
the new colony with jealousy. While 
he was there, several Indian chiefs ar- 
rived from the interior to pay their 
respects to Governor Calvert. They 
were received on board a ship which 
lay at anchor in the river, and sump- 
tuously entertained. The king of Pa- 
tuxent had his seat at table between the 
two English governors. 

To make an impression upon the 
minds of the ignorant and simple sav- 
ages, when the stores were landed from 
the vessel, a great display was made. 
The flags were raised on shore, the men 
were drawn up under arms, volleys of 
musketry and discharges of cannon from 
the ships were given, when the pro- 
visions, &c., were deposited in the store- 
house. The king of Werowances took 
this opportunity to enjoin upon the kings 
of Patuxent and Yocomoco, who were 
present, to be faithful in their observ- 
ance of the treaty they had made with 
the governor of Maryland. He spent 
several days at the place, and is reported 
to have said to the governor, in a speech 
addressed to him before his departure : 
" 1 love the English so well, that if they 
should go about to kill me, I would 
command the people not to revenge ray 
death ; for I know they would not do 
such a thing except it were through my 
own fault." 

According to the treaty, the English 
occupied one half of the towm, and the 
Indians the other ; and the greatest har- 
mony prevailed, without interruption, 
through the remainder of the year. The 
savages performed the most kind and 
important services to the colonists : they 
accompanied them into the forest, showed 
them the best kinds of game, joined them 
in the chase, and brought home what was 
taken or killed, feeling well rewarded 
by the presents they received of knives, 
tools, and toys. They also afforded them 



264 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



assistance in obtaining fish, while the 
squaws instructed the strangers in the 
culture of corn. The females and chil- 
dren became so friendly and confiding, 
that numbers of them were partly do- 
mesticated with the colonists. 

Fifty acres of land were given to each 
settler, and, as their numbers soon con- 
siderably increased, the colony assumed 
a very flourishing appearance. But dif- 
ficulties soon arose from the conflicting 
claims of a prior settler. Clayborne, 
about a year anterior to the date of Bal- 
timore's charter, had received from the 
king license to trade in parts of America 
not covered by any patent of exclusive 
trade, and had formed a settlement at 
Kent island, for the advantages of the 
trade of the Chesapeake, which he 
wished to engross. That island was 
now in the centre of Maryland, and of 
course Clayborne looked upon the new 
colony with no friendly eye. An appeal 
was made to the courts : but, although 
he failed in that resort, he troubled the 
colony in various ways. 

The first assembly met in Maryland 
in 1635, and passed criminal laws, which 
were chiefly designed to be executed 
upon Clayborne, and he was soon in- 
dicted for murders, piracy, and sedition. 
To escape punishment he fled to Eng- 
land, when his estates were confiscated, 
and, in spite of all his influence at court, 
the lords-commissioners of the colonies 
pronounced sentence against him. 

The second assembly was held in 1637, 
to consider a code of laws proposed by 
the governor, which they wholly reject- 
ed, substituting one of their own. The 
province was divided into baronies and 
manors, with privileges all clearly de- 
fined, and laws made to secure private 
property, to regulate intestate succes- 
sion, &c. At the third assembly, in 
1639, a representative form of govern- 
ment was established. 

Slaves are alluded to in an early act 
of the assembly, in defining " the peo- 
ple," who are said to consist of all Chris- 
tian inhabitants, " slaves only excepted." 

An Indian war broke out in 1642, 
which was attributed by the Maryland- 
ers to the intrigues of Clayborne. Af- 
ter a few years it was terminated by a 



lasting peace, which was due, in a great 
measure, to laws passed by the assem- 
bly, regulating intercourse with the In- 
dians. Land-purchases were required 
to receive the sanction of the governor, 
and the sale of firearms and liquor to 
the Indians was prohibited. 

But in 1645 a rebellion broke out in 
Kent island, which extended to St. Ma- 
ry's, and compelled Calvert to make 
his escape to Virginia. The revolt was 
suppressed in August following, and the 
colony again enjoyed tranquillity. An 
act of oblivion was passed in 1649, which 
included all except a few chief offend- 
ers ; and during the same session reli- 
gious toleration was established by an 
act of the assembly. Some of its pro- 
visions were these : that no person pro- 
fessing to believe in the Lord Jesus 
Christ should be molested in respect 
of his religion, nor in the free exercise 
thereof, or be compelled to the belief or 
exei'cise of any other, against his own 
consent ; that persons molesting any 
other in respect of their religious tenets 
should pay triple damages to the party 
aggrieved, and twenty shillings to the 
proprietary ; that those who should ap- 
ply opprobrious names of religious dis- 
tinction to others, should forfeit ten shil- 
lings to the persons so insulted ; that 
any speaking reproachfully against the 
Blessed Virgin, or the apostles, should 
forfeit five pounds : but that blasphemy 
against God should be punished with 
death. 

In 1650, the constitution of the colony 
was drawn up in a form which it pre- 
served for a century. The assembly 
was now divided, those who were called 
to it by special writ forming the upper 
house, and the burgesses the lower. 

At the same time. Lord Baltimore 
was recognised proprietary of the prov- 
ince, and received public honors as such. 
But the assembly passed an act requiring 
the assent of the freemen to any tax that 
might be imposed. New difficulties, 
however, soon arose. Commissioners 
were appointed in England to place the 
colony under the control and govern- 
ment of the mother-country ; and, Clay- 
borne being one of them, a revolution 
was soon effected in the constitution, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



265 



after a short period of opposition, and 
even civil war. The Roman cathoHcs 
were defeated, the governor deposed, 
and the unprecedented and intolerable 
feudal power and rank of Calvert over- 
thrown. The next assembly acknowl- 
edged the authority of Cromwell, who 
was then protector, and reduced the col- 
ony to a state of dependence on Eng- 
land, but abridged religious liberty to 
such a degree that Roman catholics, qua- 
kers, and episcopalians, suffered perse- 
cution. 

In the meantime, Lord Baltimore had 
appointed Fendal his representative ; 
and, at the end of two years, the com- 
missioners surrendered the government 
to him. His first acts were to procure 
the dissolution of the upper house, and 
assume the whole legislative power, to 
lay heavy taxes, to oppress the quakers, 
and thus to inci'ease the public difficul- 
ties. The restoration of Charles II., 
which soon followed, restored Lord Bal- 
timore to his place, powers, emoluments, 
and honors ; and Fendal, after being con- 
victed of high treason, was pardoned on 
the ground of incapacity. 

During the dissensions which had 
now been passed through, the colony had 
much increased. It contained twelve 
thousand inhabitants. Five years after- 
ward it had one hundi'ed ships and six- 
teen thousand inhabitants. Every young 
person was trained to usefiil labor, and 
poverty was unknown. 

In 1661 a mint was established, which, 
in 1676, was declared perpetual, by the 
assembly. 

The Dutch settlers at Henlopen, for a 
time, threatened great troubles to Mary- 
land ; but Calvert was successful in ne- 
gotiating with them, by which some 
were persuaded to leave that part of the 
country, and others to come under his 
govei-nment. A tribe of Indians, on the 
west side of the Delaware, once assumed 
a hostile attitude ; but, by the assistance 
of some neighboring tribes, they were 
induced to lay aside all unfriendly in- 
tentions, and gave the colony no further 
trouble. The statute-book of the colony, 
under the date of 1666, contains a law 
for the naturalization of the Dutch col- 
onists who remained in Maryland ; which 



is the oldest act of the kind in all the 
colonies. 

In 1671 a tax of two shilhiigs was 
laid on every hogshead of tobacco ex- 
ported, half to be expended for die pub- 
lic defence, in a magazine and arms, and 
half to be given to the proprietary as a 
mark of gratitude. 

Loi'd Baltimore died in 1676, and was 
succeeded by his son, Charles Calvert. 
England had long practised the sending 
of felons to Maryland, as a place of 
banishment ; and this year the assembly 
made an ineffectual attempt to put a stop 
to a system so injurious to the colony. 
Not fewer than three bundled and fifty 
were annually landed in the province 
for several years before the revolution. 

As early as 1681, exertions were made 
to introduce manufacturing ; but they 
were not attended by any important re- 
sults. The following year, William 
Penn had an interview with the propri- 
etary, soon after his arrival from Eng- 
land, to effect an amicable settlement 
of the boundary line between the two 
territories. They were unable to agree ; 
and, the question being afterward de- 
cided in England, the disputed territory 
was equally divided, and that portion 
now forming the state of Delaware was 
taken from the lands claimed by Lord 
Baltimore. 

Discontent had now become great 
with the proprietary of Maryland, even in 
England. He was threatened by King 
Charles with a writ of quo warranto, on 
account of his resisting his majesty's 
officers in the collection of the parlia- 
mentary duties. But on another charge 
he suffered more seriously ; for such was 
the clamor raised in consequence of the 
pardon granted to Fendal, that all but 
protestants were declared to be incapa- 
ble in future of holding any office under 
the government of Maryland. 

The accession of James II. led to new 
difficulties in Maryland ; and not long 
after, on a rumor that the Roman catho- 
lics and Indians had formed a league for 
the destruction of the protestants, a 
protestant league was formed, headed 
by John Coode, who was authorized 
by King William to exercise the gov- 
ernment for three years. Calvert was 



266 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



tried on sundry charges, but was only- 
deprived of the government — Sir Ed- 
vi^ard Andi'oss being apointed governor 
in his place. He was, however, per- 
mitted to enjoy his proprietary estate. 
In 1716 the representative of the Cal- 
vert family renounced the Roman catho- 
lic religion, and was restored to such 
rights as he claimed. 

The revolutionary period of the his- 
tory of Maryland contains too many in- 
teresting events to be given in a limited 
space. Several leading men early took 
a decided part in favor of American re- 
sistance, and prosecuted with zeal and 
faithfulness the great measures which 
finally established independence. The 
state adopted the constitution August 
14, 1776, and the federal constitution in 
1788. In 1790 the territory now form- 
ing the federal district, or district of 
Columbia, was ceded by Maryland to 
the general government. 

Government. — The senate consists 
of twenty-two members, one being chosen 
from each county and one from the city 
of Baltimore, for a term of four years, 
one half of them biennially. The house 
of delegates are elected once in two 
years ; and, till the apportionment under 
the census of 1860, are seventy-two in 
number. The executive power is vested 
in a governor who is chosen for four 
years. The state is divided into three 
districts, and the governor is taken from 
each of the thi-ee districts alternately. 
The judicial power is vested in a court of 
appeals, circuit courts, courts for the city 
of Baltimore, and injustices of the peace. 

The right of suffrage is allowed to each 
free white male citizen, twenty-one years 
old who has been one year a resident 
in the state, and six months in the county. 

Education. — The colonial legislature 
in 1696 appropriated money for educa- 
tion in a college and free-schools, which 
was absorbed by the college. Wash- 
ington college was founded in 1782 in 
Chestertown, Kent county, on the east- 
ern shore ; St. John's college in 1784, 
in Annapolis, on the western shore ; and 
these two were afterward connected 
and formed the university. 

An act was passed by the legislature 
of this state during the session of De- 



cember, 1825, to " provide for the public 
instruction of youth in primary schools 
throughout the state." This act defines 
the duties of the superintendent of 
schools, namely, to digest and prepare 
plans of instruction ; to improve such 
system as may be adopted, and such rev- 
enues as may from time to time be as- 
signed to this object ; to prepare and 
report estimates and expenditures ; and 
to superintend the collection of the rev- 
enues appropriated to education. It 
requires of the justices of the levy court 
in each of the counties to appoint nine 
commissioners of primary schools for 
the county, and a number of other suit- 
able men, not exceeding eighteen, who, 
together with the commissioners, shall 
be inspectors of said schools. The act 
also defines the duties of the commis- 
sioners as to dividing the county into 
school districts ; provides for the elec- 
tion of trustees in each district, the erec- 
tion of schoolhouses, and a semi-annual 
report of the trustees to the commis- 
sioners, &c. 

The Roman catholic college at George- 
town was founded in 1784. The medi- 
cal college in Baltimore was founded in 
1807, and in 1812 connected with the 
faculties of law, divinity, and general 
science, and formed a body corporate, 
under the title of the " University of 
Maryland." Two other institutions — 
Baltimore and St. Mary's colleges — have 
funds of their owm, by which, with stu- 
dents' fees, they are supported. 

Academies, which afford many advan- 
tages of education to both sexes, exist 
in most of the principal towns. 

Manufactures. — The manufactures 
of this state are numerous, various, and 
valuable. Woollen, cotton, iron, cop- 
per, and flour, are among the principal ; 
and most of these are seated on the 
banks of the streams where the descent 
of the land affords water-power appli- 
cable to machinery. In Baltimore and 
its vicinity a large amount of manufac- 
turing is done. 

Productions. — Flour and tobacco are 
the staple productions of Maryland ; 
but the former more valuable article 
vastly exceeds the latter in quantity. 
Iron is abundant in many of the coun- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



267 



ties of the western shore, and is manu- 
factured in many places. Bituminous 
coal exists in Allegany county in inex- 
haustible mines, and is one of the most 
valuable natural productions of the state. 
The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. 
This gi'eat work was designed to extend 
j from the city of Baltimore to Wheeling 
(Virginia), but was delayed in its com- 
pletion. It was chartered in 1827, and 
the work commenced in 1828. The state 
has subscribed three millions and Balti- 
more three millions. The first portion, 
to the Point of Rocks, sixty-nine miles 
in length, has been in operation several 
years. It has since been finished to 
Cumberland, a distance of one hundred 
and seventy-eight miles. It winds along 
streams, hill-sides, &c., in various places, 
often among wild scenery. The bridges 
and viaducts are many, and vei-y expen- 
sive. It is proposed to extend it to Pitts- 
burgh, to compete with Philadelphia in 
measures to secure the trade of the Ohio 
valley. We select the following state- 
ment, in relation to this enterprise, from 
recent publications: — 

" Thei'e seems now to be a prospect 
that this great work of improvement 
will be pushed forward to completion 
within a reasonable time. For a long 
pei'iod it has been at a stand — looking, 
as it were, from the summit of the Alle- 
ganies for the most advantageous point 
to intersect the Ohio river, which was 
the limit originally prescribed for the 
stupendous undertaking. But, should 
the work take the course indicated, a 
short time only will elapse before the 
road will penetrate the interior of Ohio, 
connecting itself with the richest agri- 
cultural region between the river and 
the lakes, and drawing from both a large 
amount of their transit business. It 
will soon connect itself with the river 
again at Cincinnati, thus securing to it- 
self all the advantages and benefits of 
a junction at a point advantageous for 
its interests in seasons of low water; 
while at the same time it will be reach- 
ing its long arm through the fertile val- 
leys and broad prairies of our western 
neighbors, toward the Mississippi. The 
word will then be — not ' Baltimore and 
Wheeling,' but ^ Baltimore and St. Louis ' 



— vv^hich will comprehend all the inter- 
mediate points." 

Baltimore. — This is the principal 
city and port of Maryland, and also one 
of the largest and finest in the United 
States. It is advantageously situated 
near the head of Chesapeake bay, four- 
teen miles distant, on the river Patapsco, 
which affords it a commodious harbor, 
well protected by high land. It occu- 
pies a position commanding, by natural 
and artificial channels of communica- 
tion, extensive and fertile regions in 
Maryland and adjacent states, and even 
with the valley of the Mississippi. It 
is in latitude 39° 17' 23", and longitude 
76° 37' 30" west from Greenwich, be- 
ing forty miles from Washington, nine- 
ty-seven from Philadelphia, one hundred 
and eighty-six from New York, and 
two hundred and ninety from Pittsburg. 
The population in 1850 was 169,000. 

The entrance to the harbor of Balti- 
more is between Fort M'Henry and the 
Lazaretto, six hundred yards wide, with 
twenty-two feet in depth ; the second 
harbor, which is above Fell's point, has 
fifteen feet water, and the third, or in- 
ner, opposite the city, ten or twelve. 

The city is about two miles in extent 
from east to west, and one and a half 
from north to south, and most of the 
streets are straight and at right angles. 
The favorite promenade is in Baltimore 
street, the principal avenue, which is 
two miles long ; and the west part is the 
favorite residence of the wealthier citi- 
zens. The principal public buildings 
ai-e the city-hall in Holliday street, the 
courthouse at the corner of Washington 
and Monument streets, the state peni- 
tentiary, above one hundred churches, 
eleven banks, seven markets, eight in- 
surance offices, two theatres, the circus, 
the museum, and the savings bank. 

The Merchants^ Exchange. — The erec- 
tion of this building was commenced in 
the year 1815. It is two hundred and 
twenty-five feet in length and one hun- 
dred and forty-four in depth, the ground 
plan being in the form of the letter H. 
It is four stories, including the base- 
ment, which is vaulted. The grand hall 
is eighty-six feet long, and lighted by a 
dome, ninety feet from the floor. 



268 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



There are two colonnades at the east- 
ern and western extremities, each of six 
Ionic columns, in pure style, and each 
consisting of a single block of Italian 
marble. 

The Cathedral (Roman catholic) is one 
hundred and ninety by one hundred and 
seventy-seven feet in extent, and in the 
Tonic style, surmounted by a dome and 
a cross, the top of which is one hundred 
and twenty-seven feet high. The build- 
ing itself is in the form of a cross, built 
of granite. It has two steeples, in one 
of which is a bell weighing three thou- 
sand five hundred lbs., the tone of which 
is exceedingly mournful, and can be 
heard forty miles down the bay on a 
calm evening. The organ contains six 
thousand pipes and thirty-six stops. 

The convent of the Ladies of Visita- 
tion is a large structure, with cupola 
and cross. Attached is an extensive 
academy for young girls. 

The Baltimore Museum and Gallery 
of Fine Arts is a fine spacious building, 
on the northwest corner of Baltimore and 
Calvert streets, remarkable for its two 
steeples and fine appearance. The in- 
terior arrangement and attractions are 
on a most costly and extensive scale. 

The appellation of the " Monumental 
city" has been conferred upon Balti- 
more, on account of its containing sev- 
eral splendid national monuments. In 
some of the burying-grounds, also, there 
are a great number of superb monu- 
ments, many of them erected by the 
city authorities. 

Washington Monument. — This superb 
and famous national structure, in honor 
of the Father of his counti-y, was erected 
by the state. 

It is built on an eminence of one hun- 
dred feet, at the head of Charles street, 
and consists of a square base of fifty 
feet by twenty-four in height, surmount- 
ed by a granite column, including the 
statue of Washington, one hundred and 
eighty feet in height. 

The statue represents Washington in 
the act of resigning his commission, is six- 
teen feet high, weighs sixteen tons, and 
cost nine thousand dollars. The corner 
stone of the monument was laid July 4, 
1815. There are four gates and twelve 



steps to the main entrance. The in- 
scription over each of the four doors is 
as follows : — 

" To George Washington, by the State of Mary- 
land." 

On each side of the base is an inscrip- 
tion : — 
« Born February 22d, 1732. Died 14th De- 
cember, 1799. 
Commander-in-chief of the American Army, 

15th June, 1775. Commission resigned at 

Annapolis, 23d December, 1783. 

Trenton, 25th December, 1776. Yorktown, 

19th October, 1781. 
President of the United States, March 4, 1789. 
Retired to Mount Vernon, 4th March, 1797." 

The exchange, customhouse, court- 
house, Barnum's City hotel, and the jail, 
are distinctly seen from the summit, and 
a fine view of the city and surrounding 
country for several miles is enjoyed. 

Several women have, within the past 
few years, precipitated themselves from 
this giddy height. 

Battle Mo7iujnent. — This is situated on 
Monument square ; it consists of a square 
base, on which rests a pedestal, orna- 
mented on each corner with a beauti- 
fully-carved griffon. From the centre 
arises a column, on the bands encircling 
which are inscribed the names of those 
who fell in the defence of Baltimore in 
1814, and in whose honor it was erected. 
This column is surmounted by a superb 
statue, representing the Genius of Bal- 
timore, holding a laurel or triumphal 
crown in her right hand, and an'antique 
helm in her left, emblematic of com- 
merce, having an eagle, bombshell, &c., 
at her side. 

This monument is of white marble, 
over fifty feet in height, and surrounded 
by a railing. The statuary is from the 
chisel of Cuppelleano, an Italian artist. 

Armistead Monument, in the rear of 
the city fountain, was erected by the 
corporation to the memory of Colonel 
Armistead, in honor of his gallant de- 
fence- of Fort M'Henry. 

The surface of the ground on which 
Baltimore stands is uneven, and in some 
parts elevated, so that a great variety 
of situations is offered, for the wharves, 
stores, and streets of business, for pub- 
lic monuments and the habitations of the 
rich. The upper parts of the town are 
on a ridge of primitive ground, through 



270 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



which a small stream, crossing the city, 
has cut a deep channel through the rocks. 
That part of the town in the vicinity of 
the bridge which ci'osses the stream, has 
sometimes suffered from sudden inun- 
dations in violent storms. Several of 
the upper streets, lying along the high 
ground, and being broad, straight, and 
well built, and in some places adorned 
with trees and gardens, make a very 
handsome appearance, and are among the 
most attractive residences in the United 
States. 

The north parts of the city are the 
most elevated, and occupy several round- 
ish hills, eighty or a hundred feet above 
the level of the harbor. The natural 
surface has here been modified to suit 
the convenience of the inhabitants, and 
to render the streets more uniform, so 
that the ascent from the water, although 
in some places steep, is nowhere difficult. 
The lower parts t)f the city are on the 
alluvion which borders the bay or basin, 
and there the streets are more closely 
built and crowded : still their straight- 
ness and regularity render them more 
convenient and clean than the business 
parts of many other commercial towns 
of equal size. 

On the south side of the city, at the 
entrance of the outer or first harbor — on 
a point of land which rises by a gradual 
assceiit to an eminence — is situated Fort 
M'Henry, the principal defence of the 
city by water. This fort endured a 
bombardment by a British squadron in 
the war of 1812, through an entire night, 
and held out successfully. The point 
is connected with the mainland by a 
long, low, and sandy neck, over which, 
as well as the neighboring water, the 
guns of the fort have an advantageous 
command. 

The country around Baltimore is 
marked by some peculiar features. Bal- 
timore county extends to Chesapeake 
bay on the southeast, to Patapsco river 
on the southwest, to Frederick county 
on the west, to York county (Pa.) on the 
north, and to Hartford county on the 
northeast; having an extreme length, 
from southeast to northwest, of thirty- 
six miles, a mean bi'eadth of twenty- 
five miles, and an area of nine hundred 



square miles. It may be divided into 
two sections — the valley of Gunpowder 
creek, which is hilly, and that of the 
Patapsco. The great primitive ledge, 
which extends all along the Atlantic bor- 
der from the southern to the eastern 
states, crosses this county, and the sea- 
sand alluvion, between the bays of the 
Patapsco and the Gunpowder, lie at its 
base. All the county is uneven; but 
above the head of tidewater it becomes 
more rough and more elevated ; and at 
Reigerstown, seventeen miles northwest 
from Baltimore, the surface is five hun- 
dred feet above the level of tidewater. 
The elevation is still greater at the south- 
east foot of the dividing ridge between 
Baltimore and Frederick counties — the 
farms are eight hundred feet above the 
harbor: so that there is a difference of 
a week or ten days in the seasons. This 
variety of surface and climate renders 
the variety of vegetation very great. 

The great western railroad from Bal- 
timore, to be extended to the Ohio, 
skirts along the southwest border of this 
county ; while the Susquehanna and the 
Washington railroads bring their numer- 
ous trains across it to the city, though 
the latter is connected, as a branch, with 
the westei'n railroad. 

Early History of Baltimore. — The 
first settlement of Maryland, under the 
patent of Lord Baltimore, was made on 
the north bank of the Potomac, at St. 
Mary's, which was intended to become 
the capital of the new colony, but is a 
place of no distinction. 

The first settler within the limits of 
Baltimore was a man named Gorsuch, 
who took a patent of lands, twenty-eight 
years later, on Whetstone point. This is 
now included in the review-ground of 
the Baltimore militia. Among those 
who settled soon after him in this vicin- 
ity was Charles Carroll, whose estate, 
on the high ground behind Baltimore, 
still bears his name. A descendant of 
his — Charles Carroll, of CaiTollton — 
was one of the signers of the Declara- 
tion of Independence. The original 
purchase of Carroll included some of 
the most eligible parts of the present 
city of Baltimore, which, at an early 
day, were sold by Charles and Daniel 



272 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



Carroll, at prices now surprisingly low, 
viz., sixty acres, at forty shillings an 
acre, payment being made in tobacco at 
one penny per pound. 

At that time, Baltimore appears to 
have been surrounded with a board 
fence, with two gates for carriages and 
one for foot-passengers. 

The Battle of Baltimore. — Maryland 
was invaded by a powerful British army 
in 1814, and Baltimore was saved from 
capture by the energy of the officers and 
soldiers hastily assembled for the de- 
fence. 

A British squadron was blockading 
the coast, and Commodore Barney sailed 
from Baltimore to protect the harbors, 
&c., in the bay, with a flotilla, consist- 
ing of a cutter, two gunboats, a galley, 
and nine large barges. At the mouth 
of the Patuxent river he discovered two 
schooners and pursued them. One car- 
ried eighteen guns ; and as both were 
soon joined by the barges of a seventy- 
four, which was soon discovered, he fled 
into the mouth of the river. They fol- 
lowed, but were driven back, and the 
commodore returning anchored about 
three miles distant from the ship. A 
few days after, a rasee of the enemy ar- 
rived, with a sloop-of-war ; and the com- 
modore was compelled to retire to St. 
Leonard's creek, pursued by the smaller 
vessels and the barges of the larger. 
There he extended his line of boats 
across the stream, in order of battle. 
The enemy twice advanced and were 
twice driven back, and the eighteen-gun 
schooner was so much injured by the 
American shot that she was run on 
shore and abandoned. 

A body of artillery from Washington 
arrived on the 26th, when a combined 
attack was made on the enemy from the 
land and the water, and with success. 
The British retreated after an action of 
two hours, and immediately sailed down 
the river. 

A short time after, however, having 
received large reinforcements from Eu- 
rope in consequence of the cessation 
of hostilities with France, the enemy 
formed the plan of a large expedition, 
and soon entered the Chesapeake, ac- 
companied by thirty ships-of-war, under 



Lieutent-General Ross, intending to cap- 
ture Washington and Baltimore. 

After the capture of Washington and 
Georgetown, the enemy directed his at- 
tention to Baltimore. Forty smaller 
vessels, under Admiral Cochrane, sailed 
for the Patapsco, and arrived at North 
point, twelve miles from the city. They 
were drawn up and anchored in a line 
across the river, and the debarkation of 
the troops soon commenced. The land- 
ing was completed on the morning of 
September 12, and the forces prepared 
to march against the city, amounting to 
eight thousand, including soldiers, sail- 
ors, and marines. At the same time, 
sixteen vessels, including frigates and 
bomb-vessels, moved up the river to 
make an attack by water, in cooperation 
with the army. The latter anchored at 
the distance of two and a half miles 
from Fort M'Henry, which had been 
timely garrisoned by a strong force of 
five thousand men. 

The British army proceeded, while a 
body of three thousand Americans moved 
out to meet them. On intelligence 
being received by the latter of the en- 
emy's approach, two companies of artil- 
lery, a few riflemen, and ten artillerymen 
with a four-pounder, hastened on to 
meet their advance, which was reported 
to be a light corps. But, as the ground 
was unfavorable to the use of the en- 
emy's cavalry and artillery, the action 
was sustained by the infantry of the de- 
tachments. 

General Ross, pressing forward with 
several of his staff, exposed himself, on 
an open field, to the fire of a few Ameri- 
can sharpshooters posted in an advan- 
tageous position, and he instantly re- 
ceived a mortal wound, and fell, with 
several of his officers. The enemy then 
pushed on and attacked the American 
left. 

The action now became general, and 
a sharp contest continued from two to 
four o'clock, P. M., when the Americans, 
being in far inferior force, fell back upon 
the reserve. The next day was spent 
without renewing the action, the enemy 
taking position in the afternoon in front 
of the Americans, driving in their out- 
posts, and preparing for an attack at 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



273 



night. The weather was Btormy, how- 
ever, and in the morning the British 
reembarked, and a bombardment com- 
menced, which lasted till the following 
morning. An attempt was made to 
storm Fort Covington, but failed, with 
loss, and the expedition retreated down 
the river." 

Nature has made generous provision 
for extensive and various manufactures 
in Maryland. Baltimore and its vicinity 
has been said, by a well-qualified writer, 
to possess "unrivalled advantages" for 
manufacturing, there not being " on the 
continent a location more favorable. 
Everything is cheap ; and ready access 
can be had to all the markets of the 
Union. Nothing is wanting but enter- 
prise and industry to make the whole 
nation tributary" to this city. 

The Flour Trade. — A most exten- 
sive business is transacted in flour in this 
city. The quantity of wheat-flour and 
cornmeal inspected during the miller's 
year, from July 1, to June 30, is about 
a million of barrels. 

The chief wealth of MarylaTid, we will 
incidentally remark, is drawn from its 
agriculture and mines. Mining is now 
being carried on with great spirit, and 
since the completion of the canal and 
railroad from Baltimore to Cumberland, 
operations have been gi-eatly extended. 
It is a fact worthy of observation that 
many of our ocean steamships are using 
the semi-bituminous coal of this I'egion, 
and large quantities are used at Pitts- 
burgh and for steamboats on the Ohio 
rivers. Furnaces, bloomeries, and rol- 
ling-mills, for the manufacture of iron, 
have increased wonderfully in number 
dui-ing the past five years, and turn out 
vast quantities of cast and bar iron. The 
principal agricultural produce is wool 
and pork; wheat, Indian corn, and oats; 
and tobacco. Maryland stands fourth 
on the list of tobacco-growing states, and 
is highly celebrated for the excellency 
of this staple. Ship-building, chief- 
ly carried on at Baltimore, is also an 
extensive branch of industry. The coast 
fisheries employ many hundreds of fam- 
ilies, and supply not only sufficient fish 
for the market of Baltimore, but also no 
SMall amount for export. 



Annapolis. — This town is distin- 
guished as the state capital, and stands 
at the mouth of the river Severn, on its 
right bank, and three miles from Ches- 
apeake bay. It is also the capital of 
Anne Arundel county. The statehouse, 
St. John's college, and St. Anne's church, 
are placed at three points of the city 
equally distant from each other, forming 
centres, at which meet, from different 
directions, the principal streets. The 
other public buildings are the govern- 
ment-house, methodist church, Roman 
catholic chapel, the bank, and the semi- 
nary. There are about four thousand 
three hundred inhabitants in Annapolis. 
It is thirty-seven miles north and seven- 
ty-six east from Washington, and thirty 
miles east of south from Baltimore. 

The Statehouse is an old building, and 
has long served for public purposes. 
The American congress assembled here 
during some of the most interesting pe- 
riods of the revolution. The senate- 
chamber, in which they held their ses- 
sions, remains unaltered to the present 
day. It was there that the solemn scene 
was exhibited of the resignation of his 
commission by Washington, after the 
close of the war. 

St. John's College has five professors, 
one thousand two hundred and forty 
alumni, and about seventy-five students, 
with a library of about four thousand 
volumes. The commencement is held 
on the 22d of February. 

Havre de Grace is a small town at 
the mouth of Susquehanna river, thirty- 
six miles northeast from Baltimore and 
sixty miles from Philadelphia, and con- 
tains about fifteen hundred inhabitants. 
Here commences the Susquehanna ca- 
nal, which extends from the Chesapeake 
to the Pennsylvania canals. This town 
was burnt by the British troops under 
Admiral Cockburn, in the late war, in 
1813. 

Steam-ferryboats cross the river here, 
and the railroad from Philadelphia to 
Baltimore passes through this place.^ 

Elkton, forty-five miles fiom Phila- 
delphia and about the same distance 
from Baltimore, stands at the junction 
of the two principal branches of Elk 
river at the head of tidewater. It is a 



18 



274 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



place of some trade, and a neat and 
pleasant village. 

Chestertown is thirty miles south- 
east from Baltimore, thirty from Chesa- 
peake bay, and eighty-two northeast 
from Washington. It stands on Chester 
river, and contains over one thousand 
inhabitants. This is the seat of justice 
of Kent county. A branch of the uni- 
versity of Maryland is established here. 

Easton. — This town is on Tread- 
haven bay, thirteen miles from Elkton 
and Chesapeake bay. It contains three 
churches, a courthouse, and an academy. 
The inhabitants are over one thousand. 
It is a seaport and the seat of justice of 
Talbot county. 

Camrridge, twelve miles distant from 
Chesapeake bay, is on the Choptank, 
and contains a courthouse, an academy, 
and two churches, with about eight hun- 
dred inhabitants. Stagecoaches run to 
Snowhill and to Elkton. It is the seat 
of justice of Dorchester county, and is 
thirty-six miles southeast of Annapolis 
in a direct line, but fifty-three by post- 
z'oute. 

Snowhill is situated on the east side 
of Pocomoke river, one hundred and 
sixty-three miles southeast of AVashing- 
ton. It contains a courthouse, an acad- 
emy, five churches, and about eight 
hundred inhabitants, and is the seat of 
justice of Worcester county. 

Barren Creek Mineral Springs are 
twenty-three miles from Cambridge ; 
they are resorted to by numbers of visit- 
ers every seasons. The water contains 
oxyde of ii'on, soda, and magnesia, with 
muriatic acid. 

Westminster. — This town stands 
near the head of Patapsco river. It has a 
courthouse, an academy, three churches, 
and about five hundred inhabitants. It 
lies on the border of Frederick county, 
twenty-three miles northwest of Balti- 
more. 

Emmettsburg is twenty-two miles 
north of Frederick. It stands on the 
Monocasy, in the north part of Frederick 
county, and contains four churches, an 
academy, and eight hundred inhabitants, 
and near it is one of the principal Ro- 
man catholic seminaries, called St. Mary's 
college. 



St. Mary's College was founded in 
1830, and has a president, eleven tutors, 
and about one hundred and fifty stu- 
dents. Its libraries contain four thou- 
sand volumes. The commencement is 
held in the last week in June. Stage- 
coaches go to Frederick three times a 
week. 

Frederick. — This is one of the prin- 
cipal towns in the state, being second in 
importance to Baltimore, from which it 
is distant sixty-one miles west. It stands 
on a branch of the Monocasy, in the 
midst of a pleasant country, with a fer- 
tile soil. It is laid out with regularity, 
and contains some fine private houses, 
and several conspicuous public build- 
ings — a courthouse, county buildings, a 
market, twelve churches, two acade- 
mies, a Roman catholic seminary and 
chai"ity school, and above six thousand 
inhabitants. A branch railroad con-, 
nects this town with the Baltimore and 
Ohio railroad. 

Frederick County next south of Adams 
county, and southwest of York county 
(Pa.), lies along the western boundary 
of Baltimore, Anne Arundel, and Mont- 
gomery counties, from which it is, for a 
considerable part of the distance, divided 
by the ridge of the Southeast mountain. 
It extends south to the Potomac and 
west to the Blue ridge. It is forty-two 
miles long and eighteen miles in mean 
breadth, and has an area of seven hun- 
dred and seventy-six squai'e miles. It 
is traversed by the Monocasy, which 
lies wholly within it, excepting the head- 
waters. The Cotoctin mountain, a mi- 
nor branch of the Blue ridge, extends 
south, from the northwest part of the 
county, nearly to the Potomac, dividing 
the valleys of the Monocasy and the Co- 
toctin. The surface is not generally 
hilly, and in some parts level ; while the 
soil is favorable to grain, grass, and 
fruit ; and it is one of the best cultivated 
parts of the state. 

Hagerstown. — This town stands on 
Antietam creek, and is seventy miles 
west fom Baltimore, with daily stage- 
coaches to Frederick. It contains nine 
churches, a townhall, two banks, two 
academies, and nearly five thousand in- 
habitants. It is the seat of justice of 



276 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



Washington county, and a place of con- 
siderable importance, lying in the cen- 
tre of a rich limestone valley. 

Hancock, on the bank of Potomac riv- 
er, contains two churches, an academy, 
and about five hundred inhabitants. 

Cumberland, one hundred and sev- 
enty-eight miles west of Baltimore, is 
on the Potomac, at the mouth of Wills 
creek. It contains a bank, a market, 
five churches, a courthouse, and about 
two thousand inhabitants. The situa- 
tion is in a \aried and wild region, 
among the mountains, where coalmines 
abound. The railroad to Baltimore af- 
fords daily communication with that city 
and the intermediate places. It is the 
seat of justice of Allegany county, and 
the eastern termination of the great 
western road of the United States called 
the Cumberland road. 

Ellicott's Mills, ten miles south- 
west from Baltimore, is situated in a 
wild and picturesque region, and owes 
its existence as a village to the water- 
power, which is employed in numerous 
manufactures, and to the railroad which 
here crosses the Patapsco, on a fine 
aqueduct of stone. It stands on the 
boundary line of Baltimore and Anne 
Arundel counties. 

The Viaduct of the Baltimore and 
Washington Railroad. — One of the most 
striking objects in the state is the great 
viaduct on which the Baltimore and 
Washington railroad crosses the valley 
of the Patuxent. A passenger travel- 
ling over it in a car has little opportu- 
nity to judge of the nature, extent, dif- 
ficulty, and cost of the construction. The 
view from the summit is so extensive, 
and the valley below is seen so nearly 
under his feet, that the most careless ob- 
server must be aware that he is moving 
at an unusual height above the surface, 
and that the road is sustained by a long 
and narrow, though lofty fabric. To an 
observer, however, from below, or from 
a point on either side, the scene is of a 
more impressive description. A lofty 
and elegant arched bridge extends across 
a deep and wild chasm, forming a nar- 
row but solid and level path, for the 
long and heavy trains of cars which pass 
over it, between the natural banks that 



bound it on either side. The stream 
which winds below, and sometimes rises 
to overflow a great part of the valley, 
threatens to undermine and tear away 
this light and elegant structure. 

Ample space, however, is left between 
the piers for the passage of the water, 
even at the highest floods ; and the work 
has suffered but occasional and partial 
injuries, from the severest weather and 
floods. The road is thirty-three miles in 
length, and one of the most important 
portions of the great line of travelling 
from north to south, especially during 
the time when congress is in session. 

The commerce of Maryland is so de- 
pendent on the harbor of Baltimore, that 
it is well for the state that it possesses 
the important quality of being accessible 
at all seasons of the year. Even when 
impeded by ice, it never freezes so thick 
that it may not easily be opened by 
strong steam icebreakers and towboats, 
which are kept in readiness for the pur- 
pose. Ships of the largest class can 
come up to the wharves in the lower 
harbor; and at Canton they have twen- 
ty-six feet water. 

" The soil of the state," says Hunt's 
Magazine, " except in a few portions 
of it, is well adapted to agriculture. It 
has numerous never-failing streams, with 
gradual falls at suitable distances, par- 
ticularly in the vicinity of Baltimore. 
For manufacturing purposes, and com- 
mercial pursuits, Maryland is not ex- 
celled by any other state in the Union. 
The great American Mediterranean sea, 
whose borders she skirts, will be a wall 
of defence about her in time of war, as 
an invading foe would scarcely with- 
draw himself from the ocean-field, in 
this improved age of invention, lest his 
retreat might be intei'cepted when he 
found it necessary to retreat ; and the 
bosom of that sea will in early after- 
time waft treasures upon it, that, whether 
in the chai-acter of imports or exports, 
will add to her riches. Natui'e has in- 
contestably provided for this result ; and 
the founders of Baltimore (not that any- 
thing like prescience is to be ascribed to 
them, even as regards the state of im- 
provements as they exist at present) so 
located it, that it becomes a point of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



277 



cnncentration, whence again all the travel 
diverges, if economy as to distance be 
considered, whether the direction be 
from north to south, or east to west, and 
vice versa. The near proximity of the 
seat of national government is no draw- 
back upon, but adds to, her value ; and 
should congress in its wisdom authorize 
the establishment of a national bank, 
where is there a city, all matters in ref- 
erence to other banks and places con- 
sidered, more eligible and safe, for the 
present, than Baltimore ] 

" Nearly all the great prominent agri- 
cultural pi'oductions of the United States 
are grown in Maryland, except cotton, 
sugar, and rice ; and each year further 
developments are made in reference to 
some exotics. If there were agricul- 
tural societies, and fairs held, as in some 
of the eastern states, where the choice 
productions of the earth could be exhib- 
ited, and competent persons appointed to 
pronounce upon them and award pre- 
miums, it would act as a great stimulant 
to enterprise, aside from the profits im- 
mediately resulting to the grower. So 
with live stock, of all descriptions ; but 
these subjects are somewhat neglected by 
the present tillers of the soil, and those 
of politics have, to too great an extent, 
usurped their places. Some fifteen or 
twenty years since, when Maryland was 
luxuriating in a more palmy sunshine 
of favors than at present, such exhi- 
bitions were not unfrequent, and politics 
slept : there may be a recurrence of a 
similar prosperous period. 

" Corn, wheat, and oats, thrive kindly 
in every county. Rye is not so gener- 
ally cultivated ; the western counties 
appear more congenial to its growth. 
Buckwheat, barley, and pulse, ai'e not 
so specially attended to. The yield of 
flaxseed is only middling, compared with 
that of other grains." 

Potatoes are of excellent flavor, and 
the crops fair, but not equal to the de- 
mand. Small parcels of sweet-potatoes 
come to Baltimore, chiefly from the 
southern and eastern counties. Hay is 
the growth of the western shore, and is 
chiefly timothy, with some clover. It 
never exceeds home-consumption. Fruit 
is better adapted to the same counties. 



especially apples and peaches, some of 
which are very superior in quality. 
Melons, -of every variety, are abundant 
everywhere. Tobacco is cultivated in 
eleven of the counties, but principally 
in Prince George, Culvert, Charles, St. 
Mary's, Anne Arundel, and Montgomery. 
More than nine millions of pounds were 
raised in Prince George, and twelve 
millions in all the counties afterward 
named, in the year 1S39. 

Good horses, mules, neat-cattle, sheep, 
and swine, are raised in every county, 
but Frederick excels in this branch : in 
this county, according to the census of 
1840, there were then 11,259 horses and 
mules, 24,933 neat-cattle, 26,309 sheep, 
and 54,049 swine. The bacon of this 
county is preferred to any other, bring- 
ing at Baltimore from one quarter to 
one half cent, more per pound. 

All the counties produce wool ; but 
the yield is not large — not above three 
hundred thousand pounds per annum, 
which was the amount in 1840 for the 
whole state. Frederick county gave of 
this fifty-nine thousand pounds. In but- 
ter and cheese, also, this county exceeds 
the others. 

The forest-trees of the middle states 
abound in all the counties of this state. 
The best woods for fuel are the oaks, 
hickory, beech, and dogwood. Oak 
commonly sells in Baltimore at from 
four to five and a half dollars per cord, 
and the others at from five to seven dol- 
lars. Pine is abundant, but neither the 
white nor the pitch-pine. The hem- 
lock has its southern boundary in the 
west parts of Maryland, excepting a 
small district in the Allegany mountains 
in Virginia. In New England the bark 
of this tree, there so common, is much 
used in tanning. The oak of this state 
is excellent for shipbuilding, being in- 
ferior only to the live-oak. The cele- 
brated dam across the Kennebeck river, 
in Maine, is built of oak from Maryland. 
It was cut in Baltimore county near a 
stream flowing into the Chesapeake. 
Among the plans for internal improve- 
ment is one for a canal through that 
stream to Havre de Grace. Cedar and 
locust are abundant in some parts of 
the lower counties, and are exported in 



278 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MARYLAND. 



fveat quantities to the eastern states for 
shipbuilding, with oak timber. The ce- 
dar and locust of Maryland are also in 
demand for railroads. 

The amount of exports annually made 
from the numerous navigable branches 
of the bay, it is impossible to ascertain, 
and difficult to estimate. 

Coal abounds, principally in Allegany 
county, and it is mostly of the bitumin- 
ous kind. The Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal, fi'om the falls at Georgetown, 
along the Potomac, was made chiefly 
for the purpose of bringing this coal to 
market. The cost of this woi"k has been 
very great, and unexpected difficulties 
were foixnd in the way of the western 
terminus, along the mountainous region 
where tlie coal-beds are situated. The 
Frostburg coal-basin, according to the 
report of the state geologist. Professor 
Ducatel, is forty miles long and five 
miles wide, containing 86,847 acres. 
The coal, being fifteen yards in depth, 
must be in amount more than six thou- 
sand millions of cubic yards. Each cu- 
bic yard weighs a ton. 

The Lonaconing iron region is in the 
same county, and is estimated to contain 
three thousand millions of tons of ore, 
or one thousand millions of tons of 
crude iron. 

Many companies have been formed 
and incorporated ^or several years, for 
the working oi'the coal and iron mines. 
Some of them have commenced opera- 
tions with success. The mines at Elk- 
ridge Hone yield iron of superior qual- 
ity, adapted to fine castings. This and 
other varieties of ore from the vicinity 
of Baltimore, yield from about thirty- 
five to fifty per cent, of iron. Bog-ore 
is found in Worcester county, and has 
been wrought to some extent. It yields 
twenty-nine per cent. 

Several copper-mines exist in Fred- 
erick county, chiefly near the village of 
New London. The ore yields about 
thirty per cent. 

The following minerals are also found 
in Maryland, which will prove valuable, 
viz. : anthracite, granite, marble, soap- 
stone, limestone, flint, sandstone, slate, 
potters'-clay, fire-clay, pipe-clay, various 
ochres, chrome, aluminous earths, &c. 



Mineral-springs are common in the 
west, and the waters of some, which 
have been analyzed, are found to con- 
tain sulphate of magnesia, sulphate of 
lime, muriate of soda, muriate of lime, 
carbonate of lime, &c. 

Statistics. — The population of the 
state of Maryland, according to the cen- 
sus of several successive dates, has been 
as follows : — 



YeaTs. 

1790 
1800 
1810 
1820 
1830 
1840 
1856 



Whites. F 

208,647 
221,998 
235,117 
260,222 
291,093 
318,204 
418,763 



! Col'd Persons. Slaves. 

8,043 103,036 



19,987 
33,927 
39,730 
52,912 
62,078 
73,943 



107,707 
111,502 
107,398 
102,873 
89,737 
89,800 



Total. 

319,728 
349,654 
380,546 
407,350 
446,913 
470,019 
582,506 



Agricultural productiows. 

3,541,433 bush, value |2,655,075 

3,133,613 

919,988 

392,151 



Wheat 

Corn . . 8,356,565 
Oats . . 3,579,950 
Rye . . 784,303 
Buckwheat 47,858 
Potatoes . 1,058,901 



1,450 
211,780 
1,095,800 
1,100,000 
14,140 
700 
100,500 
473 



Tobacco 21,916,012 lbs. 

Hav . . 110,816 tons 

Hemp . . 117 " 

Cotton . 7,108 lbs. 

Wool . . 502,499 " 

Hops . . 2,368 bush. 

The following is the number of live 

stock, with their value : — 

Horses and mules . 94,054 $4,000,000 
Neat-cattle . . . 238,827 2,000,000 

Swine 419,520 1,252,000 

Sheep 262,807 394,210 

Manufactures. 
Number of — 

Mills— Flour 212 (1,000,000 bbls. 

before estim. as wheat) 

433 ) Value. 

423 [ $61,000 

9 ) 

5 (669,000 lbs.) 
16 195,100 

15 2,348,580 

235,900 
61,240 
73 (342,813 gals.) 68,562 
11 (529,640 do.) 105,928 

30 



Grist 
Saw 
Oil 

Powder 
Paper 
Factories — Cotton 

Woollen 29 

Potteries 22 

Distilleries 

Breweries 

Furnaces, forges, 

and rolling-mills 

Tanneries 159 

Ropewalks 13 61,240 

Shipbuilding (7,890 tons) 227,771 

The number of primary and common 

schools at the present time does not fall 

much, if any, short of 1,000 ; scholars 

al)Our, 25,000. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



279 



THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



The District of Columbia was ceded 
to the United States in 1790, and made 
the seat of government in 1800. It 
lias ever since been the capital of the 
Union, and under the government of 
congress. A spot vi^as selected on the 
Potomac river, at the head of naviga- 
tion for ships-of-war (where the navy- 
yard has since been established), and 
witli a surface deemed favorable for the 
foundation of a city. 

The extent of territory was ten miles 
square, with the Potomac river flowing 
through it, and including the mouth of 
the eastern branch of that river, where 
the water is deep, and the shores favor- 
able to the site of a navyyard. The 
land on the east side of the Potomac 
was ceded to the United States govern- 
ment by Maryland, and that on the west 
side by Virginia ; but the latter has been 
recently ceded back to Virginia, after 
long experience of the inconveniences 
arising from being under the jurisdiction 
of congress, who have so many, and 
more extensive interests in their care. 
The city of Alexandria, lately included 
in the federal district, is expected to de- 
rive special benefits from her restoration 
to Virginia. Washington and George- 
town are the only towns now belonging 
to it ; and these lie so contiguous to each 
other, that they have almost the appear- 
ance of one continued city. 

The district of Columbia is bounded 
north and east by Maryland, and south 
and west by Potomac river. It is eight 
miles long, and about one and a half 
broad. The capitol stands in latitude 
76^ 55' 30' west from Greenwich. The 
surface is undulated, and the soil poor. 
The navyyard is in the eastern part of 
the district, about one mile from Capitol 
hill ; and from the latter, nearly to the 
falls of the Potomac, extend Washing- 
ton and Georgetown, making a striking 
display when seen from the river below. 
Railroad cars have communication with 
Baltimore several times a day, and steam- 
boats ply on the Potomac and down the 
bay. Some portions of the following 



description ai-e compiled from several 
authentic works. 

A more beautiful site for a city could 
hardly be obtained. From a point where 
the Potomac, at a distance of two hun- 
dred and ninety-five miles from the ocean, 
and flowing from northwest to southeast, 
expands to the width of a mile, extended 
back an almost level plain, hemmed in 
by a series of gradually-sloping hills, 
terminating with the heights of George- 
town ; the plain being nearly three miles 
in length from east to west, and varying 
from a quarter of a mile to two miles in 
breadth ; bounded on the east by the 
eastern branch of the Potomac, where 
are now the navyyard and the congres- 
sional cemetery, and on the west by the 
Rock creek, which separates it from 
Georgetown. The small stream from 
the north, over which the railroad bridge 
now passes on entering the city, emp- 
tied into a bay or inlet of the Potomac 
about four hundred feet wide, which 
jutted in from the west to within a quar- 
ter of a mile of the Capitol hill, and 
nearly divided the plain. Not far from 
the head of this, and south of the Capi- 
tol hill, a small stream took its rise in a 
large number of springs, and emptied 
into the river at a place now called 
Greenleaf's point, formed by the inter- 
section of the eastern branch with the 
Potomac, and was known as Jones's 
creek. There is a stream above George- 
town, which has always been called 
Goose creek ; but from a certificate of 
a survey now preserved in the mayor's 
office at Washington, dated 1663, it ap- 
pears that the inlet from the Potomac 
was then known by the name of Tiber, 
and probably the stream from the north 
emptying into it bore the same name ; so 
that Moore did injustice to the history 
of the place, and confounded streams, 
when he wrote the well-known line — 

" And what was Goose creek once is Tiber now." 

By the same survey it appears that the 
land comprising the Capitol hill was 
called "Rome," or "Room," two names 
which seem to have foreshadowed the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



281 



destiny of the place. It is thought that 
they probably originated in the fact that 
the name of the owner of the estate was 
Pope, and in selecting a name for his 
plantation, he formed the title of "Pope 
of Rome." 

It is said that Washington's attention 
had been called to the advantages which 
this place presented for a city, as long 
previous as when he had been a y6uth- 
ful surveyor of the country round. His 
judgment was confirmed by the fact that 
two towns were afterward planned on 
the spot, and the first maps of the city 
represent it as laid out over the plains 
of Hamburgh and Carrollsville. 

The canoe, or pirogue, in which Gen- 
eral Washington and a party of friends 
first made the survey of the Potomac, 
was hollowed out of a large poplar-tree 
on the estate of Col. Johnson, of Fred- 
erick county, Maryland. This humble 
bark was placed upon a wagon, hauled 
to the margin of the Monocasy river, 
launched into the stream, and there re- 
ceived its honored freight. The general 
was accompanied by Governor Johnson, 
one of the first commissioners for the 
location of the city of Washington, and 
several other gentlemen. At nightfall, 
it was usual for the party to land and 
seek quarters of some of the planters, 
or farmers, who lived near the banks of 
the river, in all the pride and comfort 
of old-fashioned kindliness and hospi- 
tality. Putting up for a night at a re- 
spectable farmer's, the general and the 
two Johnsons were shown into a room 
having but two beds. " Come, gentle- 
men !" said Washington, " who will be 
my bedfellow 1" Both declined. Col. 
Johnson often afterward declared, that, 
greatly as he should have felt honored 
by such intimacy, the awe and reverence 
with which the chief had inspired him, 
even in their daily and unreserved inter- 
course, would have made the libeity 
seem little short of profanation. 

While the party were exploring in 
the vicinity of Harper's ferry, news ar- 
rived of the burning at the stake of 
Colonel Crawford, by the Indians, at 
Sandusky. Washington became excited 
to tears at hearing the recital, for Craw- 
ford had been one of the companions of 



his early life, and had often been his 
rival in athletic exercises. The unfor- 
tunate man was brave as a lion, and had 
served with great distinction in the war 
of the revolution. Tears soon gave way 
to indignation, and Washington, point- 
ing to a lofty rock which juts over the 
stream at its remarkable passage through 
the mountain, exclaimed, with a voice 
tremulous from feeling: " By Heaven, 
were I the sole judge of these Indians, 
it would be slight retaliation to hurl 
every spectator of his death from that 
height into the abyss." 

The first corner-stone in the district 
of Columbia was laid at Jones's point, 
near Alexandria, April 15, 1791, with 
the imposing masonic ceremonies of the 
time, and a quaint address by the Rev. 
James Muir. By the retrocession of 
Alexandria, the stone is no longer within 
the limits of the district. 

The first public commimication on 
record in relation to arrangements for 
laying out this city is from the pen of 
General Washington, and bears date the 
11th March, 1791; in a subsequent let- 
ter of the 30th April, he calls it the Fed 
eral city. Four months later, in a lettei 
by the original commissioners — Messrs 
Johnson, Stuart, and Carroll — dated 
Georgetown, 9th September, 1791, ad- 
dressed to the architect, Major L'Enfant, 
he is instructed to entitle the district on 
his maps the " Territory of Columbia," 
and the city, the " City of Waishington." 

On the 18th September, 1793, the 
southeast corner-stone of the north wing 
of the capitol was laid by General Wash- 
ington. The Philadelphia papers of 
the day wei-e at that time discontinued 
from the panic of the yellow- fever, so 
we have no account of the celebration. 
A speech was delivered, however, by 
Washington. 

The architect, Major L'Enfant, went 
on to lay out the streets, in the first 
place, by setting out right angles, after 
the fashion of Pliiladeljihia, and then in- 
tersecting them by those enormous ave- 
nues which were contrived to show the 
public buildings, the president's house, 
and the capitol, from all quarters ; and 
hence the perplexing dust and triangles 
of Washington. 



282 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



It was generally remarked o^U Enfant 
that he was not only a child in name, 
but in education ; as, from the names he 
gave the streets, he appeared to know 
little else than A, B, C, and one, two, 
three. It appears, however, by a letter 
of the commissioners, that they gave 
these names to the streets at the same 
time with that to the city ; for conve- 
nience a good arrangement, since the 
streets could more easily be found by a 
stranger under such designations. 

The mall upon which the Smithsonian 
institute and its gardens have been lo- 
cated, was originally designed as the lead- 
ing avenue from the capitol to the presi- 
dent's house, terminating by a. bridge 
across the river, and meeting a monu- 
ment which was to have been erected to 
Washington — an equestrian statue, with 
a baton in the right hand of the hero 
pointing to heaven. 

Washington — who took so strong an 
interest in the construction of the capi- 
tol as to solicit a loan himself, in a letter 
to the governor of Maryland — did not 
live to witness its completion. He died 
14th February, 1799. In November, 
1800, congress met there for the first 
time. 

At present the attractions of the capi- 
tal are on the increase. The private 
architecture is improving; the growth 
of the city is advancing with the enlarge- 
ment of the nation ; the museums, con- 
taining the collections of the exploring 
expedition, are open ; the patent office, 
with its models of inventions, inviting 
the attention, every year adding to the as- 
sociations of the capital ; and the bright 
schemes of scholars and men of science 
hanging upon the prospects of the Smith- 
sonian institute, its library and its gar- 
dens — these confirm the hopes of Wash- 
ington, and justify the name borrowed 
from that illustrious founder of the city. 

The Capitol presents specimens of 
various styles of architecture. On en- 
tering the south wing, several columns 
are seen, where carvings of Indian-corn- 
stalks are. substituted for flutings and 
filletings ; while the capitals are made of 
the ears of corn half stripped, and dis- 
posed so as in some degree to resemble 
the Corinthian or composite order. 



The representatives' chamber is a fine 
semicircular apartment, with columns 
of a dark-bluish siliceous pudding-stone, 
hard and highly polished. It is lighted 
from above. The gallery is open during 
the debates, as well as the senate-cham- 
ber, which is a much smaller apartment. 

The library of congress is in another 
part of the building; and the great hall 
contains seven national pictures (each of 
them twelve feet by eighteen) : the Dec- 
lai'ation of Independence, Suri'ender of 
Burgoyne at Saratoga, Surrender of 
Comwallis at Yorktown, and Washing- 
ton lesigning his Commission, painted for 
governmejit by Colonel Trumbull; Bap- 
tism of Pocahontas, by Chapman; Em- 
barkation of the Pilgrims, by Weir; and 
the Landing of Columbus, by Vanderlyn. 

A fine view is enjoyed from the top 
of the capitol. You look along Penn- 
sylvania avenue westward to the presi- 
dent's house, with Georgetown and the 
Potomac beyond ; the general postofiice, 
&c., on the right ; the navyyard toward 
the southeast ; Greenleaf 's point nearly 
south ; and southwest the bridge over 
the Potomac, with the road to Alexan- 
dria and Mount Vernon. The canal 
begins south of the president's house, 
and tei'minates at the east branch. 

The capitol presents a noble appear- 
ance ; its height, the ascending terraces, 
the monument and its fountain, the grand 
balustrade of freestone which protects 
the offices below, and the distinct object 
which it forms, standing alone on its 
lofty site, combine to make up the im- 
pression of grandeur, in which its archi- 
tectural defects are lost or forgotten. 

The waste lands which lie at the foot 
of Capitol hill are appropriated for a 
future botanical garden. 

There are many very favorable points 
of view for the capitol, standing, as it 
does, higher than the general level of 
the country. There are views from the 
distant eminences, which are particu- 
larly fine, in which the broad bosom of 
the Potomac forms the background. The 
effect of the building is also remarka- 
bly imposing when^the snow is on the 
ground, and the whole structure, rising 
from a field of snow, with its dazzling 
whiteness, looks like some admirable 



284 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



creation of the frost. All architecture, 
however, is very much impi'oved by the 
presence of a multitude of people, and 
the capitol looks its best on the day of 
inauguration. The following descrip- 
tion was written after viewing that cere- 
mony : — 

" The sun shone out of heaven with- 
out a cloud on the inaugural morning. 
The air was cold but clear, and the 
broad avenues of Washington, for once, 
seemed not too large for the thronging 
population — the crowds who had been 
pouring in from every direction for sev- 
eral days before, and ransacking the 
town for but a shelter from the night. . . 
The sun shone alike on the friends and 
opponents of the new administration ; 
and, as far as one might observe in a 
walk to the capitol, all were made cheer- 
ful alike by its brightness. . . In a whole 
day, passed in a crowd composed of all 
classes and parties, I heard no remai'k 
that the president would have been un- 
willing to hear. 

" I was at the capitol a half-hour be- 
fore the procession arrived, and had lei- 
sure to study a scene for which I was 
unprepared. The noble staircase of the 
east front of the building leaps over three 
arches, under one of which carriages 
pass to the basement door ; and as you 
approach from the gate, the eye cuts 
the ascent at right angles, and the sky, 
broken by a small spire at a short dis- 
tance, is visible beneath. Broad stairs 
occur at equal dista.ices, with corres- 
ponding projections, and from the upper 
platform rise the outer columns of the 
portico, with ranges of columns three 
deep extending back to the pilasters. I 
had often admired this front, with its 
many graceful columns and its superb 
flight of stairs, as one of the finest things 
I had seen in the world. The assem- 
bled crowd on the steps and at the base 
of the capitol, heightened inconceivably 
the grandeur of the design. They were 
piled up like the people on the temples 
of Babylon, in one of Martin's sublime 
pictures. Boys climbed about the bases 
of the columns ; single figures stood on 
the posts of the surrounding railings 
in the boldest relief against the sky; 
and the whole scene was exactly what 



Paul Veronese would have delighted to 
draw. 

" I was in the crowd thronging the 
opposite side of the court, and lost sight 
of the principal actors in this imposing 
drama till they returned from the senate- 
chamber. A temporary platform had 
been laid and railed in on the broad 
stair which supports the portico, and all 
preparation made for one of the most 
important and most meaning and solemn 
ceremonies on earth. ... In comparing 
the impressive simplicity of this consum- 
mation of the wishes of a mighty peo- 
ple, with the ceremonial and hollow show 
which embarrasses a corresponding event 
in other lands, it was impossible not to 
feel that the moral sublime was here — 
that a transaction so important, and of 
such extended and weighty import, could 
borrow nothing from drapery or deco- 
ration. 

" The crowd of diplomatists and sen- 
ators in the rear of the columns made 
way ; and the ex-president, with the new 
president, advanced with their heads un- 
covered; the former bowed to the peo- 
ple, and, still uncovei'ed in the cold air, 
took his seat beneath the portico. The 
new president then read his address to 
the people. 

" When the address was closed, the 
chief-justice advanced and administered 
the oath. As the book touched the lips 
of the new president, there arose a gen- 
eral shout, an expression of feeling com- 
mon enough in other countries, but drawn 
with difficulty from an American assem- 
blage. The friends of the president 
then closed around him, the ex-presi- 
dent and others gave him the hand of 
congratulation, and the ceremony was 
over." 

The President's House. — The resi- 
dence of the chief-magistrate of the 
United States resembles the country-seat 
of an English nobleman, in its architec- 
ture and size ; but it is to be regretted 
that the parallel ceases when we come 
to the grounds. By itself it is a com- 
modious and creditable building, serving 
its purpose without too much state for 
a republican country, yet likely, as long 
as the country exists without primo- 
geniture and rank, to be sufficiently su- 



286 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



perior to all other dwelling-houses to 
mark it as the residence of the nation's 
ruler. 

The president's house stands near the 
centre of an area of some twenty acres, 
occupying a very advantageous eleva- 
tion, open to the view of the Potomac, 
and about forty-four feet above high 
water, and possessing from its balcony 
one of the loveliest prospects in our coun- 
try — the junction of the two branches of 
the Potomac which border the district, 
and the swelling and varied shores be- 
yond of the states of Maryland and Vir- 
ginia. The building is one hundred 
and seventy feet front and eighty-six 
deep, and is built of white freestone, 
with Ionic pilasters, comprehending two 
lofty stories, with a stone balustrade. 
The north front is ornamented with a 
portico, sustained by four Ionic col- 
umns, with three columns of projec- 
tion — the outer intercolumniation af- 
fording a shelter for caiTiages to drive 
und-er. The garden-front on the river 
is varied by what is called a rusticated 
basement-story, in the Ionic style, and 
by a semicircular projecting colonnade 
of six columns, with two spacious and 
airy flights of steps leading to a balus- 
trade on the level of the principal story. 

The interior of the president's house 
is well disposed, and possesses one su- 
perb reception-room, and two oval draw- 
ing-rooms (one in each story), of very 
beautiful proportions. The other rooms 
are not remarkable ; and there is an in- 
equality in the furniture of the whole 
house (owing to the unwillingness and 
piecemeal manner with which congress 
votes any moneys for its decoration), 
which destroys its effect as a comfort- 
able dwelling. The oval rooms are car- 
peted with' Gobelin tapestry, worked 
with the national emblems, and are alto- 
gether in a more consistent style than 
the other parts of the house. 

The Patent-Office. — This building is 
a depository for the models of such in- 
ventions as are patented in the United 
States. The old patent-office was a few 
years ago burned down. The present 
is a handsome and extensive edifice, and 
well adapted to the purpose for which 
it is designed. The contents display 



in an eminent degree the inventive and 
ingenious character of our countrymen. 
There are machines here for almost 
every purpose — ploughs, harrows, rakes, 
saws, water-wheels, coffee-mills, corn- 
snellers, stump-removers, and a multi- 
tude oi other things, all an-anged ac- 
cording to their kinds. In one part are 
agi'icultural implements ; in another are 
machines for the manufacture of cotton ; 
in another, those for the manufacture of 
wool, &c. The number of these inven- 
tions amounts to many hundreds, and 
some of them display admirable skill 
and contrivance on the part of the in- 
ventors. 

We make the following extracts from 
the report of the commissioner of pat- 
ents : — 

The amount received for patent'^, ca- 
veats, reissues, and additional improve- 
ments, recording assignments, &c., and 
for copies, during the year 1850, was 
886,927.05. The expenditures for the 
year 1850, were as follows : — 

For salaries $29,260.94 

For contingent expenses - 13,430.19 
For books fur libraiy - - 767.47 

For temporary clerks - - 13,361.67 
For agricultural statistics - 3,859.35 
For refunding money - - 258.00 
For withdrawals - - - 18,013.33 
For compensation of librarian 500.00 

For pay of district judge - 100.00 

For analysis of breadstuffs - 500.00 
For restoring models - - 50.00 



$80,100.95 
Leaving $6,826.10 to be carried to the 
credit of the patent fund. The amount 
remaining in the treasury to the credit 
of the patent fund on the first day of 
January, 1851, was $15,331.27. The 
patent fund, at the commencement of 
1850, amounted to about $170,000. But 
during the year about $160,000 was ap- 
propriated by Congress for the purpose 
of additional wing to the patent office. 

During the year 1850, the whole num- 
ber of applications presented to the pat- 
ent office was 2,193. Every application 
which is not finally disposed of upon the 
first examination, may be the subject of 
re-examination at any time thereafter; 
and a large proportion of the time of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



287 



the examiners is taken up in sucK re- 
examinations. The actual number of 
applications rejected is less than the 
number patented, as many of those pat- 
ented wei'e rejected upon their first ex- 
amination, in consequence of the appli- 
cant failing to specify what was really 
his invention, and laying claim to what 
was neither new nor patentable. Such 
cases are not of unfrequent occuiTence. 
It often happens that two or three rejec- 
tions are recorded upon one application, 
each re-examination requiring new in- 
vestigations and elaborate reasoning to 
meet the new claims and views of the 
applicant, and to sustain the decision 
of the office. 

The subjects of applications for ])at- 
ents are comjorised under twenty-two 
general classes, each of them embracing 
many subdivisions — in some cases more 
than twenty. 

The inquiry is frequently made, How 
is it that applications for patents multi- 
ply so fast 1 Is there so much room left 
for improvement in this or that bi'anch 
of arti Superficial observers are apt 
to be looking for consummation not only 
in individual branches of art, but in 
the whole range of human productions. 
They regard the wants of man as limit- 
able, his mind as exhaustible, and, with 
an air of sagacity, will point to a time 
when the overgrown wings of genius 
will retard and finally check his career. 
A look at the past would mirror in its 
true light this distoited view of things ; 
but even this is not necessary. A lib- 
eral survey of the present, a glance at 
the depths of mind, see " increase and 
multiply," stamped upon his intellec- 
tual as well as his physical nature. The 
multiplying pi'oducts of intelligence are 
no hinderance to his onward move- 
ment; and those seemingly formidable 
accumulations of innovations offer no 
effective resistance to the wheels of in- 
vention. They are rather so many step- 
ping-stones, over which genius is striding 
up the hill of perfection, whose summit 
is beyond the confines of time. 

It appears that during the year 1844, 
the number of applications for patents 
suddenly increased nearly twenty-five 
per cent, above that of any former year. 



which, of course, required and produced 
a con-esponding increase of exertion on 
the part of the examining corps. 

It appears that the number of patents 
does not increase in pi'oportion to the 
number of applications, but that the 
number of rejections increases in a 
much greater ratio; and that in 1844 
there were more patents granted than 
in 1845 ; and this occurred under the 
same commissioner, and with the same 
examining corps. The causes which 
have produced this result still exist, and 
will probably continue to exert a stead- 
ily-increasing influence throughout the 
future operations of this office. 

In every section of the country may 
be found worthy and ingenious men, 
whose energies are directed toward in- 
ventions and discoveries in the arts. 
Some of these are sufficiently informed 
of what has already been done, in the 
particular department to which their at- 
tention is directed, to avoid, in some 
good degree, the beaten track ; but the 
number and variety of inventions al- 
ready made are so great, that few can 
enter upon a career of invention with 
sufficient knowledge to avoid a succes- 
sion of reinventions, which add nothing 
to the arts, and which it is the duty of 
this office to reject. Of course, the at- 
tention of the uniformed inventor is 
directed to discoveries of an elementary 
character. These are necessarily lim- 
ited in their number, and the field has 
everywhere been preoccupied by thou- 
sands of every variety of mind ; and 
whatever he may fix upon is already 
public property, or has been appropri- 
ated by some one who has preceded 
him. As invention is rapidly progres- 
sing in every part of the civilized world, 
each year will trench still further upon 
the only department open. to uniformed 
inventors ; and as their number is likely 
to increase rather than diminish, rejec- 
tions must inevitably be multiplied ; and 
the consequences, unfortunately, have 
often fallen, and must continue to fall, 
upon men whose industry, talents, and 
perseverance, deserve, and, if well di- 
rected, would be rewarded by distin- 
guished success. 

While the threshold is thus thronged 



288 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



by tLe multitudes who are treading upon 
each other, the field beyond, to the eye 
of those who can explore it, is almost 
limitless. Every discovery which is 
made appears to shed light upon others 
hitherto enveloped in obscurity; each 
furnishes the key to a group, and the 
things to be discovered seem to multi- 
ply in proportion to those already dis- 
covered. 

The first examination of an applica- 
tion is intended to be as thorough as 
the condition of the papers and models 
will admit. If the claim can not be al- 
lowed, the machine is carefully exam- 
ined, to discover whether it compi-ehends 
any other feature or combination which 
would justify the grant of letters-patent. 
If anything patentable is discovered, the 
papers are returned to the applicant, 
with such suggestions as will assist him 
in mending them and properly modify- 
ing his claim ; but if nothing patentable 
is discovered, the application is at once 
rejected, and the necessary references 
given ; as it is deemed worse than use- 
less to put the applicant to the trouble 
and expense of amending and perfect- 
ing his papers, when it is believed that 
no amendment could avoid a final rejec- 
tion. But this office, from its reorgan- 
ization, has been liberal in reconsider- 
ing rejected applications. The appli- 
cant is always permitted to amend his 
papers, and to present new or amended 
claims, which render it necessary again 
to examine the application as if it were 
new. If it is again rejected, this ad- 
ditional rejection is entered upon the 
record kept by the examiner, and is 
counted as a rejection. There are in- 
stances in every year's experience of 
cases being represented with different 
claims two or three times, each change 
raising questions entirely new, and re- 
quiring the same examinations and con- 
sideration as would be required by so 
many distinct applications. All expe- 
rience of the examining corps has shown 
the importance of making these re-ex- 
aminations, as it sometimes occurs that, 
owing to the imperfect manner in which 
the papers have been prepared, a pat- 
entable feature of the machine has es- 
caped the notice of the examiner. 



A part of the applications of every 
year since 1839 are still pending, and 
liable to be called up at any moment, 
though they are in such condition that 
this office is compelled to await the ac- 
tion of the applicant. 

The history of this office for several 
years, in addition to a great and steady 
increase of inventions, presents also the 
fact, always observable in the progress 
of the arts, that while some classes are 
receiving numerous and important ad- 
ditions, others appear to receive little 
or no attention ; or, if effijrts are made 
toward their improvement, they fail of 
success. But succeeding years produce 
an entire revolution ; and those branches 
whose rapidity of progress had aston- 
ished the world, in their turn become 
torpid, and improvements burst forth 
with unlooked-for brilliancy from the 
dust and ashes which have accumulated 
upon a long-neglected department of 
the arts. The main current, however, 
is always onward, although, at some 
points, it appears to stagnate or retro- 
grade. But let not the inventor be 
deceived or discouraged; these are but 
the eddies. Let him persevere; the 
eddy of to-day may be the torrent of 
to-morrow. 

The commissioner, in his report for 
1845, speaks of the existing law by 
which a subject of Great Britain is com- 
pelled to pay into the treasury the sum 
of five hundred dollars before his appli- 
cation can be examined, and the citizens 
and subjects of all foreign countries to 
pay three hundred dollars on their re- 
spective applications. He says : — 

" These duties were designed to bear 
some proportion to the duties required 
of American citizens making applica- 
tions for patents in other countries, and 
on that ground may, perhaps, be justi- 
fied and defended. 

" The effect of this provision is un- 
questionably to prevent the introduction 
into this country of many useful and 
valuable discoveries, which would other- 
wise be patented and iqtroduced. Sim- 
ilar high duties have the effect to exclude 
American inventions from other coun- 
tries. Thus all countries are injured 
by this system of taxing genius for the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



289 



exertion of its powers, in order to ob- 
tain comparatively a very small and tri- 
fling amount of revenue. 

" It affc)rds no protection to the Amer- 
ican inventor to keep out the discoveries 
of his foreign emulator (not rival) in the 
arts, by taxing the emanations of his 
genius with high duties, while the coun- 
try would dei'ive much benefit from their 
introduction." 

History. — Washington is the only 
spot where it is practically seen, that, 
for national purposes, we are one peo- 
ple. The United States forts, arsenals, 
and navyyards are limited in their asso- 
ciations. At Washington we see a dis- 
trict set apart as the national centre ; 
its inhabitants, in a spirit of patriotism, 
relinquishing the right of suffrage, to be 
free from the taint of party spirit, and 
its very vastness and unoccupied dis- 
tances pointing to the future, and filling 
the mind with admiration of the hopes 
of its founders. 

Before the establishment of the dis- 
trict of Columbia, congress occasionally 
met, according to the exigencies of the 
case, or the convenience of members, 
at Philadelphia, Baltimore, Lancaster, 
Yorktown, Princeton, Annapolis, Tren- 
ton, and New York. The different 
states, in the meantime, coveted the 
honor of the national city. New York 
offered the town of Kingston ; Rhode 
Island, Newport ; Maryland, Annapolis ;■ 
and Virginia, Williamsburg. 

On the 21st October, 1783, congress, 
insulted at Philadelphia by a band of 
mutineers, whom the state authorities 
were unable to quell, adjourned to the 
halls of the college at Princeton — a cir- 
cumstance which doubtless led to the 
agitation of the question of a permanent 
seat of government, which was taken up 
at this time, and continued to be dis- 
cussed till the formation of the constitu- 
tion. A resolution of Mr. Gerry, 7th 
October, 1783, was adopted, that a dis- 
trict be chosen on the banks of the Del- 
aware or the Potomac, near Georgetown, 
which underwent various modifications 
(one of which was that both sites be 
selected), till it was repealed in the fol- 
lowing year. On the 30th of October, 
1784, the subject was again taken up 



at Trenton, and commissioners appoint- 
ed with powers to lay out a district on 
the Delaware within eight miles above 
or below the falls, make the necessary 
purchases, erect public buildings, re- 
serve exclusive jurisdiction, &c. The 
question as to place was revived in con- 
gress in 1789-'90, with the view of se- 
curing a central position. A site on the 
Susquehanna was talked of, and finally 
the present district determined on, which 
then went by the name of Connogo- 
cheague. New York was not central 
enough ; Philadelphia and Germantown 
had their supporters, as well as Havre 
de Grace, a place called Wright's Ferry 
on the Susquehanna, and Baltimore. 
The South Cai'olinians objected to Phil- 
adelphia, that the quakers would be for 
ever dogging the members with schemes 
of emancipation. Others laughed at the 
idea of palaces in the wood. 

The friends of the new site numbered 
the names of Washington, Madison, Lee, 
and Carroll, and their choice was gov- 
erned by these considerations. It was 
not desirable that the political capital 
should be in a commercial metropolis. 
It was necessary, for the independence 
of the government and its proper secu- 
rity, thaW its jurisdiction should be ex 
elusive — that its officers should not be 
under the influence of the citizens : 
hence the elective franchise was to be 
given up, which no large city would 
yield. Party feeling, which then I'an 
high, was to be avoided; the natural 
influence of wealth on the spot was 
feared, and the examples of London and 
Westminster in the importance of their 
six members in parliament was quoted. 
It was desirable that the simplicity of 
the members of government, in their 
style of living, should not be contrasted 
with the luxury of a great city, or be com- 
pelled to submit to its costlier charges. 
Moreover, large quantities of land were 
wanted, which must be purchased at great 
expense where land was already dear. 
Looking to the future, it was thought 
expedient to provide for all possible 
wants more amply than could, under 
any circumstances, be effected in a city 
already built. 

For a central situation, it was seen 



19 



290 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



that the centres of territory, wealth, and 
population, could not be united. In de- 
termining upon the centre of the line 
of seacoast, the occupants of the west- 
ern territory only asked that it should be 
as far west as the convenience of mari- 
time commeixe would allow. The spot 
chosen admitted of a navyyard, and 
could be connected by canal with waters 
which finally I'Dse to the sources of the 
Ohio. The act finally passed on the 
16th of July, 1790. 

Among the most important public 
buildings in Washington are the " De- 
partments," as they are commonly called, 
or edifices containing the offices of the 
several secretaries of state, war, the 
navy, and the treasury. These are large 
and spacious, and contain apartments 
devoted to the officers, the numerous 
clerks, the records, &c. They stand at 
the distance of two hundred yards from 
the president's house — two on the east, 
and two on the west. 

The Tr easier y Building has been re- 
cently re-erected, the former one having 
been accidentally burned a few years 
ago. It makes a very striking appear- 
ance, presenting a Grecian front, with a 
splendid portico four hundred and fifly- 
seven feet in length. 

The other three buildings are of brick, 
and each one hundred and sixty feet in 
length, fifty-five in breadth, and two sto- 
ries high. A broad passage runs through 
the middle, with numerous apartments 
on each side ; and in the centre is the 
staircase, which is of large dimensions. 
The porticoes are ornamented with six 
Ionic columns. The grounds surround- 
ing the buildings are planted with trees 
and shrubbery. 

Every part of these edifices bears in- 
dications of the laborious business which 
is carried on. The clerks are generally 
men of intelligence, and many of them 
of education, as most of the offices re- 
quire ability, system, and industry. Such 
is the importance of that acquaintance 
with many of the offices, which is to be 
acquired only by experience, that many 
of them have long been retained by in- 
dividuals, amid the frequent changes 
made by the fluctuations of opinions in 
the country. 



The foresight of the congress which 
selected Washington for the seat of gov- 
ernment, has been in many points justi- 
fied by the results. If there is much 
to lament in the looseness of manners 
which, to a considerable extent, prevails 
in the city during the crowded season 
of the session, it is easy to see, that 
were the members and other attendants 
at the capital exposed to the influences 
of a large city, like New York or Phila- 
delphia, there would be far more evil to 
regret in the deterioration of the charac- 
ters of individuals ; and if room is now 
found for injurious intrigues, hurtful to 
the public interest, such evils would be 
multiplied amid a larger population. 
The means of dissipation and the temp- 
tations of luxury and vice are now only 
such as are prepared or imported for 
the occasion, and are necessarily fewer 
and more feeble than those permanently 
established on a far broader scale in a 
metropolis. The small size of the city, 
and the sparseness of the neighboring 
population, still are, and long must be, 
too insignificant to overawe congress in 
their deliberations ; and there is at pres- 
ent no local interest strong enough to 
exercise any powerful influence on their 
decisions. 

The Congressional Burying-Ground. — 
The cemetery appropriated to the inter- 
ment of deceased members of congress, 
situated a mile east of the capitol, is 
laid out with taste, adorned with trees 
and shrubbery, and contains a number 
of appropriate monuments. The design 
of a new city cemetery has been formed. 
It is anticipated that the price of the 
lots will be so low as to permit every 
family to own one, and the distance not 
being so far as to prevent those visiting 
it that do not owm carriages. Indeed, 
it was intended to be so located as to 
serve the interests of all — so that he 
who walks through necessity, as well 
as he who rides, may find it an agree- 
able and convenient place of resort — 
not too far for the poor, nor too near for 
the rich. In what direction the city will 
enlarge itself, it is now impossible to 
say. If the most remote dell was taken 
for the purpose, no one can tell how 
public it might become in a few years. 



292 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 




The Smithsonian Institution, at Washington. 



The Smithsonian Institution has a no- 
ble endowment, and is devoted to thepto- 
motion of science in its various branches. 
The funds bequeathed for its foundation 
having lain for a number of years, accu- 
mulating in value, and congress having 
organized it in 1816, it ha-s commenced 
operations with flattering prospects. A 
laige edifice has been erected, valuable 
collections have been begun, and the 
services of active officers enafagred : so 
that under the supervision of the govern- 
ment, and with abundant pecuniary 
means at its disposal, it will doubiless 
afford important aid to the sciences in 
time to come. 

Columbian College was incorporated 
in the year 1821. The buildings occu- 
py an elevation north of the president's 
house, and a medical department is at- 
tached to the institution. The libraries 
contain upward of four thousand volumes. 

The Navyyard contains twenty-seven 
acres of ground, three quarters of a 
mile southeast of the capitol, with ranges 
of stores, shops, dwellings for officers. 



barracks, the armory, and two large 
ship-houses, in which ships-of-war of 
different classes are constructed. 

Capture of Washington hy the British 
in 1814. — The better to provide for the 
defence of Washington and the neigh- 
boring country, so much threatened by 
the enemy's fleet, a new military district 
was formed in the summer of 1814, 
making the tenth district in number, and 
embracing Maryland, the district of Co- 
lumbia, and a part of Virginia. The 
president, on the 4th of July, 1814, made 
a requisition on the governors of those 
states fn- ninety-three thousand militia, 
fifteen thousand of whom were to be 
raised within the limits of the new mili- 
tary district. One thousand regular 
troops were added, and the whole force 
placed under the command of General 
Winder, 

But the news was received, about a 
fortnight after the requisition had been 
made, that the British had landed at 
Benedict. At that time only three thou- 
sand men had been collected, and these 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



293 



were, of course, of the most raw and un- 
disciplined description of troops. The 
enemy's fleet proceeded to invade the 
shores of the Chesapeake in three di- 
visions. Admiral Cochrane proceeded 
up the Patuxent ; General Gordon sailed 
up the Potomac against Alexandria; 
and General Ross, landing at Benedict, 
marched for Washington, along the right 
bank of the Patuxent, a distance of twen- 
ty-seven miles, intending to assist Ad- 
miral Cochrane, on his way, in destroy- 
ing Commodore Barney's flotilla. 

On the 22d of August they appeared 
in sight of Barney, who immediately 
destroyed his vessels, and fell back to 
join General Winder. The president 
of the United States, General Armstrong, 
secretary of war, and several other heads 
of departments, visited the camp at 
Marlborough, and decided on retreating 
toward the capital. Expecting the en- 
emy to advance to the east branch of 
the Potomac, preparations were made 
for its defence ; but it was discovered 
oa llie 24th that they were approaching 
Bladensburg. General Stansbury with 
two thousand two hundred Baltimore 
militia, who was on his way to the camp, 
was ordered back to that point, and was 
soon joined by General Winder and the 
main body. The president and heads 
of departments were pi'esent when the 
battle commenced, but they soon left the 
field, to secure the important documents 
in their offices, and hastened to Wash- 
ington. 

The enemy met a spirited resistance, 
and had indeed a sharp contest to main- 
tain, while crossing the bridge, where 
their column was swept by the cannon of 
Commodore Barney from the redoubts, 
and while pressing up the successive 
swells crossed by the road. The thick 
forest on both sides was penetrated with 
difficulty, even in face of the small force 
opposed to them. Before long, however, 
the militia broke and fled in disorder ; 
Com. Barney was wounded and made 
prisoner, and the day was decided. 

The British ctrmy lost no time in ad- 
vancing to Washington, where they met 
with no serious opposition ; and there 
they set fire to the capitol and other 
public buildings, mutilated some of the 



ornaments of the city, and after a short 
stay, took up their march back to their 
ships. 

"The enemy evacuated Washington on 
the evening of August 25th, and retired 
to their fleet, having lost two hundred 
and forty-nine, killed, at Bladensburg, 
and suffered a total loss, as is said, of 
four hundred killed and wounded, and 
about five hundred prisoners and de- 
serters. 

Anecdotes of General Washington. — 
The following may be here introduced. 
First, an account of the appointment of 
Washington to the supreme command 
of the continental army, June 18, 1775 — 
from a private journal, narrating a con- 
versation with John Adams, senior : — 

" The army was assembled at Cam- 
bridge, Massachusetts, under General 
Ward, and congress was sitting at Phila- 
delphia. Every day new applications in 
behalf of the army arrived. The coun- 
try were urgent that congress should 
legalize the raising of the army ; as they 
had what must be considered, and was 
in law considered, only a mob — a band of 
armed rebels. The country was placed 
in circumstances of peculiar difficulty 
and danger. The struggle had begun, 
and yet everything was without order. 
The great trial now seemed to be in 
this question. Who shall be the com- 
mander-in-chief 1 It was exceedingly 
important, and was felt to be the hinge 
on which the contest might turn for or 
against us. The southern and the mid- 
dle States, warm and rapid in their zeal, 
were for the most part jealous of New 
England, because they felt that the real 
physical force was there. What then 
was to be done 1 All New England 
adored General Ward : he had been in 
the French war, and went out laden with 
laurels. He was a scholar and a states- 
man. Every qualification seemed to 
cluster in him ; and it was confidently 
believed that the army could not receive 
any appointment over him. What then 
was to be done 1 Difficulties thickened 
at every step. The struggle was to be 
long and bloody. Without union, all 
was lost. The country, and the whole 
country, must come in. One pulsation 
must beat throusfh all hearts. The cause 



294 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



was one, and the army must be one. 
The members had talked, debated, con- 
sidered, and guessed, and yet the de- 
cisive step had not been taken. At 
length Mr. Adams came to his conclu- 
sion. The means of resolving it were 
somewhat singular, and nearly as fol- 
lows : he was walking one morning be- 
fore Congress hall, appaiently in deep 
thought, when his cousin Samuel Adams 
came up to him and said : — 

" ' What is the topic with you this 
morning?' 

" ' Oh, the army, the army,' he re- 
plied. * I'm determined to go into the 
hall, this morning, and enter on a full 
detail of the state of the colonies, in or- 
der to show an absolute need of taking 
some decisive steps. My whole aim 
will be, to induce congress to appoint a 
day for adopting the army as the legal 
army of these united colonies of North 
America, and then to hint at my election 
of a commander-in-chief.' 

" * Well,' said Samuel Adams, ' I like 
that, cousin John; but on whom have 
you fixed as that commander V 

" * I will tell you — George Washing- 
ton, of Virginia, a member of this house.' 

" ' Oh,' replied Samuel Adams, quick- 
ly, ' that will never do — never.' 

" ' It must do — it shall do,' said John, 
' and for these reasons : the southern and 
middle states are both to enter heartily 
in the cause, and their arguments are po- 
tent : they say that New England holds 
the physical power in her hands, and 
they fear the result. A New England 
army, a New England commander, with 
New England perseverance, all united, 
appal them. For this cause they hang 
back. Now, the only course is to allay 
their fears, and give them nothing to 
complain of; and this can be done in no 
other way but by appointing a south- 
ern chief over this force, and then all 
rush to the standard. The policy will 
blend us in one mass, and that mass will 
be resistless.' 

" At this Samuel Adams seemed to 
be greatly moved. They talked over 
the preliminary circumstances, and John 
asked his cousin to second the motion. 
Mr. Adams went in, took the floor, and 
put forth all his strength in the delinea- 



tions he had prepared, all aiming at the 
adoption of the army. He was ready 
to own the army, appoint a commander, 
vote supplies, and proceed to business. 
After his speech had been finished, some 
objected, and some feared. His warmth 
increased with the occasion, and to all 
these doubts and hesitations he replied 
thus : — 

" * Gentlemen, if this ^ ingress will 
not adopt this army before ten moons 
have set, New England will adopt it, and 
she will undertake the struggle alone — 
yes, with a strong arm and a clean con- 
science, she will front the foe single- 
handed.' 

" This had the desired effect. They 
saw New England was neither playing 
nor to be played with, and they agreed 
to appoint a day. A day was fixed : it 
came : Mr. Adams went in, took the 
floor, urged the measure, and after some 
debate it passed. 

" The next thing was to get a com- 
mander for this army, with supplies, &c. 
All looked to Mr. Adams on the occa- 
sion, and he was ready. He then took 
the floor, and went into a minute delin- 
eation of the character of General Ward, 
bestowing on him the encomiums which 
then belonged to no one else. At the 
end of the eulogy, he said : * But this is 
not the man I have chosen.' He then 
went into the delineation of the charac- 
ter of a commander-in-chief, such as was 
required by the peculiar situation of the 
colonies at that juncture. And after he 
had presented the qualifications in his 
strongest language, and given the rea- 
sons for the nomination he was about to 
make, he said : — 

" ' Gentlemen, I know these qualifica- 
tions are high, but we all know they are 
needful, at this crisis, in this chief. Does 
any one say they are not to be obtained 
in this country ? In reply, I have to 
say they are ; they reside in one of our 
own body, and he is the person whom I 
now nominate — George Washington, 
OF Virginia.' 

•' Washington, who sat on Mr. Adams' 
right hand, was looking him intently in 
the face, to watch the name he was 
about to announce, and, not expecting 
it would be his, sprang from his seat the 



minute he heard it, and rushed into an 
adjoining room. Mr. Adams had asked 
his cousin Samuel to ask for an adjourn- 
ment as soon as the nomination was 
made, in order to give the members time 
to deliberate — and the result is before 
the world. 

" I asked Mr. Adams, among other 
questions, the following : — 

" ' Did you ever doubt of the success 
of the conflict V 

" 'No, no,' said he, 'not for a mo- 
ment. I expected to be hung and quar- 
tered, if I was caught ; but no matter 
for that — my country would be free ; I 
knew George the Third could not forge 
chains long enough and strong enough 
to reach around these United States.' " 

In the early days of the republic, it 
was customary for the pi-esident to meet 
the two houses of congress, on their 
assembling, and make them a speech, 
instead of sending in a formal, careful- 
ly-written message as now. Various 
reasons conspired to bring about the 
change — reasons of convenience which 
will occur on reflection to every mind, 
and which it is needless now to specify. 
We allude to the matter as necessary 
to a better understanding of the extract 
below. This extract is taken from a 
long and very interesting communica- 
tion in the National Intelligencer, the 
anniversary of Washington's birthday. 
The writer describes Washington as he 
saw him at the opening of congress in 
Philadelphia. 

" I stood on a stone platform, before 
the door of the hall, elevated by a few 
steps from the pavement, when the car- 
riage of the president drew up. It was 
white, or rather of a light cream-color, 
painted on the panels with beautiful 
groups, by Cipriani, representing the 
four seasons. The horses, according to 
my recollection, were white, in unison 
with the carriage. As he alighted, and, 
ascending the steps, paused upon the 
platform, looking over his shoulder, in 
an attitude that would have furnished 
an admirable subject for the pencil, he 
was preceded by two gentlemen bear- 
ing long white wands, who kept back 
the crowd that pressed on every side 
to get a nearer view. At that moment 



T stood so near I might have touched 
his clothes; but I should as soon have 
thought of touching an electric battery. 
I was penetrated with a veneration, 
amounting to the deepest awe. Nor 
was this the feeling of a schoolboy only ; 
it pervaded, I believe, every human be- 
ing that approached Washington ; and 
I have been told, that, even in his social 
and convivial hours, this feeling in those 
who were honored to share them, never 
suffered intermission. I saw him a hun- 
dred times afterward, but never with any 
other than that same feeling. 

" The Almighty, who raised up for 
our hour of need a man so peculiarly 
prepared for its whole dread responsi- 
bility, seems to have put an impress of 
sacredness upon his own instrument. 
The first sight of the man struck the 
heart with involuntary homage, and pre- 
pared everything around him to obey. 
When he ' addressed himself to speak,' 
there was an unconscious suspension of 
the breath, while every eye was raised 
in expectation. At the time I speak of, 
he stood in pi'ofound silence, and had 
that statue-like air which, mental great- 
ness alone can bestow. As he turned 
to enter the building, and was ascending 
the staircase leading to the congression- 
al hall, I glided in, unperceived, almost 
under cover of the skirts of his dress, 
and entered instantly after him into the 
lobby of the house, which was of course 
in session to receive him. On either 
hand, from the entrance, stood a large 
cast-iron stove ; and, resolved to secure 
the unhoped-for privilege I had so un- 
expectedly obtained, I clambered, boy- 
like, on this stove — fortunately then not 
much heated — and, from that favorable 
elevation, enjoyed for the first time (what 
I have since so many thousands of times 
witnessed with comparative indifference) 
an uninterrupted view of the American 
congress in full session, every member 
in his place. Shall I be pardoned for 
saying its aspect was very different from 
what we now witness 1 There was an 
air of decorum, of composure, of reflec- 
tion, of gentlemanly and polished dig- 
nity, which has fled, or lingers with here 
and there a ' relic of the olden time.' 

" The house seemed then as com- 



296 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



posed as the senate now is, when an 
impressive speech is in the act of de- 
livery. On Washington's entrance the 
most profound and death-like stillness 
prevailed. House, lobbies, gallery, all 
were wrapped in the deepest attention ; 
and the souls of that entire assemblage 
seemed pouring from their eyes on the 
noble figure which deliberately, and with 
an unaffected but surpassing majesty, 
advanced upon the broad aisle of the 
hall between ranks of standing senators 
aiul members, and slowly ascended the 
steps leading to the speaker's chair. I 
well remember, standing at the head of 
the senate, the tall, square, somewhat 
gaunt form of Mr. Jefferson — conspic- 
uous from his scarlet waistcoat, bright 
blue coat, with broad bright buttons, as 
well as by his quick and penetrating air, 
and high-boned Scottish cast of features. 
There, too, stood General Knox — then 
secretary of war — in all the sleek ro- 
tundity of his low stature, with a bold 
and florid face, open, firm, and manly in 
its expression. But I recollect that my 
boyish eye was caught by the appear- 
ance of De Yrujo, the Spanish ambas- 
sador. He stood in the rear of the 
chair, a little on one side, covered with 
a splendid diplomatic dress, decorated 
with orders, and carrying under his arm 
an immense chapeau bras, edged with 
white ostrich feathers. He was a man 
totally different in his air and manner 
from all around him, and the very an- 
tipode especially of the Man on whom 
all eyes but his seemed fixed as by a 
spell. I saw many other very striking 
figures grouped about and behind the 
speaker's chair, but I did not know their 
names, and had no one to ask; besides, 
I dared not open my lips. 

" The president, having seated him- 
self, remained in silence, serenely con- 
templating the legislature befox'e him, 
whose members now resumed their seats, 
waiting for the speech. No house of 
worship, in the most solemn pauses of 
devotion, was ever more profoundly still 
than was that large and crowded cham- 
ber. 

" Washington was dressed precisely 
as Stuart has painted him in Lord Lans- 
down's full-length portrait — in a full suit 



of the richest black velvet, with diamond 
knee-buckles, and square silver buckles 
set upon shoes japanned with the most 
scrupulous neatness, black silk stock- 
ings, his shirt ruffled at the breast and 
wrist, a light dress sword, his hair pro- 
fusely powdered, fully dressed, so as to 
project at the sides, and gathered behind 
in a silk bag ornamented with a large 
rose of black riband. He held his cocked 
hat, which had a large black cockade on 
one side of it, in his hand, as he ad- 
vanced toward the chair, and, when seat- 
ed, laid it on the table. 

" At length, thrusting his hand within 
the side of his coat, he drew forth a roll 
of manuscript, which he opened, and, 
rising, held it in his hand, while, in a 
rich, deep, full, sonorous voice, he read 
his opening address to congress. His 
enunciation was deliberate, justly em- 
phasized, very distinct, and accompanied 
with an air of deep solemnity, as being 
the utterance of a mind profoundly im- 
pressed with the dignity of the act in 
which it was occupied, conscious of the 
whole responsibility of its position and 
action, but not oppressed by it. There 
was ever about the man something which 
impressed the observer with a convic- 
tion, that he was exactly and fully equal 
with what he had to do. He was never 
hurried, never negligent; but seemed 
ever prepared for the occasion, be it 
what it might. If I could express his 
character in one word, it would be ap- 
propriateness. In his study, in his par- 
lor, at a levee, before congress, at the 
head of the army, he seemed to be just 
what the situation required him to be. 
He possessed, in a degree never equalled 
by any human being I ever saw, the 
strongest and most ever-present sense 
of propi'iety. It never forsook him, and 
deeply and involuntarily impressed it- 
self upon every beholder. 

*' His address was of moderate length; 
the topics I have, of course, forgotten ; 
indeed, I was not of an age to appreciate 
them ; but the air, the manner, the tone, 
have never left my mental vision, and 
even now seem to vibrate on my ear. 

" A scene like this, once beheld, though 
in eai'liest youth, is never to be forgot- 
ten. It must be now fifty years ago; 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



297 



but I could this moment sit down and 
sketch the chamber, the assembly, and 
the Man. 

" Having closed the reading, he laid 
down the scroll, and, after a brief pause, 
retired as he had entered ; when the 
manuscript was handed, for a second 
reading, to Mr. Beckley, then clerk of 
the house, whose gentlemanly manner, 
clear and silver voice, and sharp articu- 
lation, I shall ever associate with the 
scene. 

" When shall we again behold such 
a congress and such a president?" 

The following beautiful eulogy on 
Washington, by Lord Brougham, may 
with pi'opriety be introduced in this 
place : — 

" With none of that brilliant genius 
which dazzles ordinary minds ; with not 
even any remarkable quickness of ap- 
prehension ; with knowledge less than 
almost all persons in the middle ranks, 
and many well educated of the humbler 
classes, possess — this eminent person 
is presented to our obsei'vation clothed 
in attributes as modest, as unpretend- 
ing, as little calculated to strike or to 
astonish, as if he had passed unknown 
through some secluded region of pi'ivate 
life. But he had a judgment sure and 
sound ; a steadiness of mind which never 
suffered any passion, or even any feel- 
ing to ruffle its calm ; a strength of un- 
derstanding which worked rather than 
forced its way through obstacles, re- 
moving or avoiding rather than over- 
leaping them. His courage, whether in 
battle or in council, was as perfect as 
might be expected from this pure and 
steady temper of soul. A perfectly just 
man, with a thoroughly firm resolution 
never to be misled by others, any more 
than by others overawed ; never to be 
seduced or betrayed, or hurried away 
by his own weakness or self-delusions, 
any more than by other men's arts ; nor 
even to be disheartened by the most 
complicated difficulties, any more than 
spoiled on the giddy heights of fortune — 
such was this great man : whether we 
regard him sustaining alone the whole 
weight of campaigns, all but desperate, 
or gloriously terminnting a just warfare 
by his resources and his courage ; pre- 



siding over the jarring elements of his 
political council, alike deaf to the storms 
of all extremes ; or directing the forma- 
tion of a new government for a great 
people, the first time that so vast an 
experiment had ever been tried by man ; 
or finally retiring from the supreme 
power to which his virtues had raised 
him over the nation he had created, and 
whose destinies he had guided as long 
as his aid was required — retiring with 
the veneration of all parties, of all na- 
tions, of all mankind, in order that the 
rights of man might be conserved, and 
that his example never might be ap- 
pealed to by vulgar tyrants. This is the 
consummate glory of the great Ameri- 
can — a triumphant warrior where the 
most successful had a right to despair ; 
a successful ruler in all the difficulties 
of a course wholly untried ; but a war- 
rior whose sword only left its sheath 
when the first law of our nature com- 
manded it to be drawn ; and a ruler who, 
having tasted of supreme power, gently 
and unostentatiously desired that the cup 
might pass from him, nor would suffer 
more to wet his lips than the most sol- 
emn and sacred duty to his country and 
his God required ! 

" To his latest breath did this great 
patriot maintain the noble character of 
a captain the patron of peace, and a 
statesman the friend of justice. Dying, 
he bequeathed to his heirs the sword 
which he had worn in the war of liberty, 
charging thera ' never to take it from 
the scabbard but in self-defence, or in 
defence of their country and her free- 
dom ; and commanding them, that when 
it should thus be drawn, they should 
never sheath it nor ever give it up, but 
prefer falling with it in their hands to 
the relinquishment thereof — words, the 
simple eloquence and majesty of which 
are not surpassed in the oratory of 
Athens and Rome. 

"It will be the duty of the historian 
and sage in all ages to omit no occasion 
of commemorating this illustrious man ; 
and until time shall be no more, will a 
test of the progress which our race has 
made in wisdom and in virtue, be de- 
rived from the veneration paid to the 
immortal name of Washington !" 



298 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



Character of Debates in Congress. — 
The following is from a letter by a late 
English traveller : — 

" I have frequently visited the halls 
of the national legislature, since my ar- 
rival here, for the purpose of becoming 
acquainted with the operations of the 
government, and of listening to the elo- 
quence which is sometimes to be heard 
within them. It sti'ikes me that there 
is a considerable difference between the 
eloquence of the British parliament and 
that of the American congress. In the 
latter, they only are distinguished and 
have influence who handle the subject 
under discussion with ability — grasp it 
comprehensively — are familiar with all 
its bearings — bring to it a mind con- 
versant with all its details, and cast upon 
it a concentrated blaze of light. In par- 
liament, such a speaker would not be 
regarded as the most effective, or carry 
his point so easily, as one who avoids 
the real merits of the question, plays 
upon the outskirts of the subject, retorts 
with brilliancy, and detects and exposes 
the inconsistencies of his opponent. In 
congress, however, on all questions in 
which party considerations are involved, 
no speaker, whatever may be the power 
of his intellect, the extent of his know- 
ledge, the flow of his diction, or the 
beauty of his elocution, will carry a sin- 
gle vote beyond the limit of the party 
to which he belongs, or the principles 
or doctrines supported by those who 
elect him. Almost every member of 
both branches of the legislature either 
speaks, or is expected to speak ; but 
wo him who shall have the hardy inde- 
pendence to yield to the influence of 
truth, or be swayed by the power of 
eloquence, and shall dare to throw aside 
the reins of party, and think and act for 
himself. He knows that his fate would 
be at once sealed, and his political ca- 
reer closed, perhaps for ever. If a mem- 
ber of the senate, the legislature of the 
state which elects him would, in all 
probability, recommend him to resign ; 
and if a representative, his constituents 
would send another in his place. The 
eloquence which is employed, therefore, 
is not intended so much for this arena 
as for the people among whom prose- 



lytes are to be made, and who are either 
to be brought over to the principles 
which the orator maintains, or retained 
in the errors which he supports. An 
angel's tongue could not move the po- 
litical partizan from the course his con- 
stituents expect him to pursue, and the 
contest between the orators on both sides 
in congress is a mere intellectual glad- 
iatorial combat, without any other pur- 
pose there than to exhibit their respec- 
tive powers of eloquence, and call to- 
gether a numerous audience to listen to 
them. Members of the legal profession 
are very numerous in both houses of 
congress. Few of any other profession 
obtain the honor of a seat in that assem- 
bly, and of course most of them are 
speakers, if not what may be called ora- 
tors. In congress, as well as in parlia- 
ment, there are many very common men 
both as to education and talents — in so 
large an assembly, and chosen as they 
are, that must be expected. Even among 
the educated and talented, there will 
often be some decidedly superior to the 
rest. In the senate of the TJnited States 
this is strikingly exemplified. I do not 
hazard much in saying, that thei'e is not 
to be found at this time an equal body 
of men of higher intellectual powers, or 
greater general intelligence. I have be- 
come personally acquainted with most of 
them — witnessed their battles of mind, 
and listened to their eloquence; and I 
am satisfied that it would be impossible 
to surpass them." 

The Prospects of Washington. — 
On the completion of the Chesapeake 
and Ohio canal, the cities of this district 
are destined to a rapid augmentation in 
population and wealth. Few persons 
but those who have resided here, know 
of the immense resources of this locality. 
The water-power of the Potomac and 
its branches is immense, suflficient to 
turn hundreds of mills, and the agricul- 
tural advantages in the immediate vicin- 
ity are superior, or at least equal to, 
those of any other section of the coun- 
try. From the coal-mines in Cumber- 
land and its vicinity alone, large fortunes 
can easily be realized. The supply 
of that useful, that necessary article to 
comfort and enterprise, in its quantity, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



299 



has exceeded alike belief and calcula- 
tion. The Union can be for a long time 
furnished with the sole products of these 
mines. 

An investment of capital here by the 
enterprising citizens of the north, would 
be sure of rapid and abundant returns. 
It is incredible that the attention of the 
sagacious capitalists of New England 
and New York should not, ere this, have 
been directed to this quarter. 

The anticipations of General Wash- 
ington may yet be realized. It is said, 
that in the papers of that illustrious man 
has been found a calculation of what 
would be the value of the Mount Vernon 
estate, when Alexandria should assume 
that importance in the I'ank of commer- 
cial cities which her happy position in- 
tended. 

The completion of the canal will be 
consummated in little more than a year. 
Its resumed continuation will, of itself, 
give a great impetus to all kinds of en- 
terprise, and additional value to real 
estate, in the cities and country at and 
near its terminus ; and it is confidently 
anticipated that the metropolis will yet 
attain to eminence among wealthy and 
populous cities. 

The Cu77iherland Road. — This grand 
work, which long engaged the solici- 
tude of congress, and was constructed 
and kept in repairs at great expense 
from the national treasury, has its com- 
mencement at Washington, and extends 
thence through Fredericksburg (Mary- 
land), and through a considerable portion 
of Virginia. It is broad, ascends and de- 
scends the hills and mountains by easy 
grades, and, whenever the soil and cir- 
cumstances are favorable, offers a smooth 
and hard surface. It has proved of great 
value to the regions through which it 
passes, and is a monument to the skill 
of American road-makei's, as well as to 
the liberality of congress toward a por- 
tion of the country, although a later con- 
struction of the constitution has put an 
end to the appropriation of money to 
works of such a nature. 

One of the finest views of Washing- 
ton, Georgetown, and the surrounding 
land and water, is found at an elevated 
point of the Cumberland road, three or 



four miles west. From that spot the eye 
embraces a wide and beautiful scene : 
the broad, shining surface of the Poto- 
mac, from where it emerges from be- 
tween the high and rocky banks which 
confine its channel above Georgetown, 
to where it begins to spread out in front 
of that city, and where, divided by the 
gently-sloping lawns of Mason's island, 
it extends on one side along the Viro-inia 
shore, and widening on the other, ap- 
pears to wash the foundations of the 
president's house as it skirts along Wash- 
ington, and, passing by the point where 
was erected the longest, if not the last, 
bridge that can ever be thrown across 
it, passes on to Greenleaf's point, where 
it receives the waters of its western 
branch. These together form a spa- 
cious bay, the northeastern extremity of 
which is occupied by the United States 
navyyard, while a canal crosses the low 
cape which separates them. Further 
down the Potomac is seen a part of its 
broad course, almost to the spot where 
it I'eceives a sad and noble gloom from 
the overhanging precipices of Mount 
Vernon. 

" Roll softly, Potomac! thou wenrest away 
The shore that he trod, and the dust where he lay." 

At a spot on the shore of this stream, 
at the foot of the falls, a little above 
Georgetown, at a convenient landing- 
place for boats, tradition reports that 
General Braddock debarked with his 
troops, when proceeding on his fatal 
expedition against Fort Du Quesne, in 
the French war. The place formerly 
bore the name of " Braddock's land- 
ing," and is interesting from its associa- 
tion with the history of the country at 
that melancholy period, and with the 
early life of General Washington, who 
so highly distinguished himself in the 
unfoitunate catastrophe which termin- 
ated the expedition. 

The wild, picturesque scenery which 
marks this part of the course of the 
Potomac, and to which we have before 
referred, bears marks of the violence 
with which the current pours by in the 
season of floods. Evidence of its rav- 
ages may often be noticed by the pas- 
senger, who will not be surprised that 
even the chain bridge, constructed with 



300 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



SO much caution, solidity, and skill, 
proved insufficient to avoid or to resist 
its impetuosity. During a high flood, 
about five years ago, it was swept away, 
the piers receiving so much injury as to 
discourage its restoration. 

Among the numerous objects in Wash- 
ington worthy of particular attention, 
most of which have been alluded to in a 
passing manner, are several of the paint- 
ings and sculptui'es which adorn the 
rotunda of the capitol. 

The " Declaration of Independence''' 
presents a grave, deliberative assembly 
(the old congress), at an instant when a 
scene of the highest importance and the 
greatest results was performing. The 
select committee, appointed to draw up 
a statement of rights and injuries, are 
in the act of presenting their report, 
which was the original of the document 
since so celebrated throughout the world 
as the " Declaration of Independence." 
John Hancock is seated in the chair of 
the speaker, and the members are ranged 
at their desks ; while Thomas Jefferson, 
John Adams, and Benjamin Franklin 
(the committee), in the foreground, are 
presenting the report to Hancock. All 
the pei'sonages present are represented 
by portraits for which they sat — many 
of them to the artist himself. A few 
exceptions, however, are to be made — 
those who were dead before he began 
his task, and who left no portraits be- 
hind them. The hall, which is still pre- 
served in its original condition (in the 
old statehouse in Philadelphia), is ac- 
curately given in the picture. 

The '' Stirrender of Burgoyne:" here 
the British forces, who surrender after 
the battles of Saratoga, are seen march- 
ing out of camp, after stacking their 
arms, on a small plain on the Hudson, to 
which they had retreated. The Ameri- 
can staff occupy a conspicuous position ; 
and the whole effect, increased by the pic- 
turesque scenery of the spot, is striking 
and highly agi'eeable. Some of the 
American troops, occupying neighbor- 
ing eminences, had convinced the de- 
feated invaders that further retreat was 
impossible ; and the event thus recorded 
marks one of the most important periods 
of the revolutionary war. 



The ^^ Surrender at Yorktown :^' in 
this picture, the American army, with 
the French allies, is presented drawn 
up in two parallel lines — seen in per- 
spective in the fields of Yorktown — and 
the head of the British column is march- 
ing between them toward the spectator : 
presenting accurate and spirited por- 
traits of many of the distinguished men 
of the day belonging to the three great 
nations represented. The splendor of 
military costume is beautifully harmon- 
ized with the pacific aspect of the scene, 
and the pleasing anticipations which it 
was well calculated to excite. 

" General Washington resigning Ms 
Commission,'^ the closing picture of this 
invaluable series, gives a view of the 
old hall occupied by congress at that 
period (in Annapolis, Maryland) ; and the 
illustrious hero of the piece is placed 
in a dignified attitude, well correspond- 
ing with his character and the nature 
of the scene. On'=' of the most interest- 
ing individuals introduced among the 
spectators is Lady Washington, accom- 
panied by several members of the family 
and friends. 

Four other scenes connected with 
the revolution were painted by Colonel 
Trumbull, which were not chosen by 
congress, although not on account of 
their want of interest or value. 

The " Battle of Bunker's Hill," the 
first in the sei'ies of historical pictures, 
represents the instant when the British 
troops, with some of their officers at 
their head, were making their last and 
successful assault upon the height whoso 
name was rendered so famous by the 
events of that day. General W^arren has 
just fallen, and Putnam is seen pressing 
from behind toward the front, sword in 
hand ; while the mingling of Americans, 
some of them in their simple working- 
dresses, with the splendid uniforms of 
their enemies — the combinations and 
contrasts of figures and groups, many of 
them in costumes and with forms and 
features copied from life, by an artist 
who was a contemporary and a fellow- 
soldier — together with the importance 
and the animated action of the scene, 
give this fine picture an interest of a 
superior kind, and impress the feelings 



DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 



30] 



of the spectator in a degi'ee which it 
would be difficult to express. 

The " Battle of Princeton," a scene 
of a like character, and painted in a sim- 
ilar spirit by the same accomplished and 
faithful hand, exhibits the fall of General 
Mercer, in full view of the venerable in- 
stitution of learning, Nassau hall, around 
and even within which lay the scene of 
that day's sanguinary struggle. A Bi'it- 
ish grenadiei', in the brilliant dress of 
his corps, is in the act of thrusting his 
bayonet into the body of the gallant 
officer, but is restrained by a timely 
hand. Here, also, the mingling of sol- 
diers of the two armies, in various atti- 
tudes and all in energetic action, pro- 
duces a similar excitement of the mind ; 
while the consciousness that most of the 
principal personages are represented by 
true portraits, adds inestimable value to 
this, no less than to the other pictures 
of the Trumbull series. 

Georgetown. — This is a town and 
port of entry of considerable trade, situ- 
ated west of Washington, from which it 
is separated by Rock creek, over which 
are two bridges, affording a convenient 
connexion between the two cities, the 
centres of which are about two miles 
apart. 

The ground on which the town stands 
is irregular, and rises to a considerable 
height above the Potomac, on which 
the city fronts. The scenery around 
is varied and pleasant, and on the west 
stand the picturesque and rocky hills, 
which here begin to change the aspect 
of the river's banks. The falls are soon 
discovered, by following up the narrow 
gorge through which the stream winds, 
and through which proceeds the Poto- 
mac canal, the lai'gest work of the kind 
in Virginia, or in any of the southern 
states. j 

The Oannnn Fmmdry is situated in a j 
secluded valley of these hills, and on the ; 
summit of them stands 

The Roman, Catholic College. — There 
are two large buildings belonging to it, 
and it has a pi-esident, fourteen profes- 
sors, about one hundred and forty stu- j 
dents, and twenty-five thousand volumes 
in its library. The commencement is 
held in July. ' 



The Nunnery, or convent of the Visit- 
ation, is at a short distance from the 
college. It was founded in 1798, and 
contains sixty or seventy nuns, some of 
whom are employed in the female school 
attached to the institution. 

Chain-Bridge across the Potomac. — 
Two miles above Georgetown, in the 
midst of the wild and romantic scenery 
which there marks the borders of the 
stream, a light bridge, constructed of 
wire, was thrown across the channel, a 
few years ago. Two heavy abutments 
of stone were built on the banks, nar- 
rowing the bed of the stream as far as 
seemed judicious, and at their extremi- 
ties were raised columns strong enough 
to sustain the iron supporters. Depend- 
ing from the latter, strong wires wei'e 
extended down to the horizontal mass 
of woven wire, which formed the main 
part of the bridge, and on which the 
floor was laid ; and the whole fabric, 
when completed, presented the neat and 
light appearance of the drawing. 

This spot is ten miles below the Great 
falls of the Potomac, where the stream 
is pressed through a passage only one 
hundred yards in width, and falls tliirty 
or forty feet into a rocky basin. Pas- 
sing on nearly four miles, it reaches the 
head of the Little falls, or rapids, the 
descent of which is much more gi'adual, 
over broken rocks and a channel rather 
rapidly descending all the way to tide- 
water : about thirty-five feet in all. 

Several wooden bridges had been 
erected across the Potomac, in this part 
of its coui'se, which had been torn away 
by the ice or the current in the violent 
annual floods ; and the wire bridge was 
adopted with the expectation that it 
would prove more durable. The nature 
of the valley through which the Potomac 
flows, renders the rising of the water, at 
certain seasons, remarkably great and 
sudden ; and the force of the current at 
this place, especially when loaded with 
floating ice, is quite irresistible. Piers 
can not be expected to stand long in the 
bed of the river, however solid and firm ; 
and the only safe alternative was to ex- 
tend a light bridge from shore to shore, 
without venturing to seek support in the 
middle. 



302 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 




This state is bounded north by 
Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Maryland ; 
east by Maryland and the Atlantic ; 
south by North Carolina and a small 
part of Tennessee; and west by Ken- 
tucky and Ohio. The southern boun- 
dary alone is a straight line, run- 
ning on a parallel of north latitude, 
nearly coinciding with the boundary 
between Kentucky and Tennessee 
almost to its western termination — 
that is, to the Tennessee river. The 
northwestern boundary is formed by 
Ohio river, which is followed up to 
where it crosses the western line of 
Pennsylvania, giving to Virginia a long and narrow gore of land, which separates 
Ohio and Pennsylvania, for a considerable distance, in a singular manner. The 
northeastern boundary is formed by the Potomac, whose tortuous course gives it 
an irregular outline. 

The state is crossed by the ridges of the Allegany mountains, from southwest 
to northeast, which give it a considerable diversity of climate, soil, and produc- 
tions, and in which the principal rivers have their sources. 

Virginia embraces a larger territory than any other of the old states, and is 
remarkable for the varieties of surface and climate which it contains. The Alle- 
gany mountains mark out one of the four natural divisions of the territory. Next 
east of this lies the hilly region, beyond which is sea-alluvion. The fourth sec- 
tion is a peculiar feature by which this state is distinguished from Maryland and 
North Carolina, which lie adjacent on the north and south. It is a broad tract, 
which slopes west, and is drained into the Mississippi through the Ohio, partly 
by the Kenhawa and othe'- tributaries of that river itself, and partly, in the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP VIRGINIA. 



303 



more southern parts, by the Tennessee 
river. 

There is a remarkable spot some dis- 
tance southwest of the centre of the 
state, whei-e some of the highest sources 
of several of the principal rivers of the 
state rise within a short distance, though 
flowing in different directions : James 
river, which empties near the southern 
extremity of Chesapeake bay ; Tennes- 
see river, which flows southwest and 
then west through the state of Tennes- 
see ; and the Kenhawa, running into 
the Ohio. 

Though the zones of Virginia are not 
very distinctly marked, each part has 
its appropriate character. The oceanic 
section of Virginia is its tropical climate. 
Latitude, exposure, and depressed level, 
all combine to give the Chesapeake coun- 
ties a more elevated temperature than 
is found in the interior. This difference 
is seen on vegetation. In the lower 
counties cotton may be cultivated suc- 
cessfully, while the uncertainty of grain 
and meadow-grasses evinces a southern 
summer. The middle, in all the Atlan- 
tic states south from Pennsylvania, we 
find to be the Arcadia of the state. Mid- 
dle Virginia is, however, blended with 
the mountainous, the former containing 
the whole or great part of the valley coun- 
ties, Berkley, Jefferson, Fi'ederick, Shen- 
andoah, Rockingham, Augusta, Rock- 
bridge, Botetourt, Montgomery, Wythe, 
and Washington. The. real mountain 
section lies northwest from the middle, 
and extends to the Ohio. The extreme 
western part is, indeed, composed of a 
congeries of hills with alluvial bottoms, 
but the actual mountain ridges approach 
so near Ohio river, and the hills are in 
themselves so generally abrupt and lofty, 
as to give an alpine appearance to the 
country. Taken as a whole, central 
Virginia has the best soil, though in the 
mountainous part there is much that is 
excellent. With the exception of the 
southeastern counties, grain and orchard 
fruits are highly congenial to Virginia, 
and their various products are the nat- 
ural, actual, and we may safely say the 
permanent, staples of the state. Of 
metals, iron ore is abundant in the cen- 
tral and western sections. Brine has 



been procui-ed on the Great Kenhawa, 
and salt extensively manufactured. 

The Natural Bridge over Cedar creek, 
twelve miles southwest of Lexington, is 
esteemed one of the most extraordinary 
natural curiosities in the world. The 
following is Mr. Jefferson's description, 
in his Notes on Virginia : — 

" It is on the ascent of a hill which 
seems to have been cloven through its 
length by some great convulsion. The 
fissure, just by the bridge, is by some 
admeasurements two hundred and sev- 
enty feet deep, by others only two hun- 
dred and five. It is about forty-five feet 
wide at the bottom, and ninety feet at 
the top: this, of course, determines the 
length of the bridge, and its height from 
the water; its breadth in the middle is 
about sixty feet, but more at the ends ; 
and the thickness of the mass, at the 
summit of the arch, is about forty feet. 
A part of this thickness is constituted 
by a coat of earth, which gives growth 
to many large trees ; the residue, with 
the hill on both sides, is one solid rock 
of limestone. The arch approaches the 
semi-elliptical form ; but the larger axis 
of the ellipse, which would be the chord 
of the arch, is many times longer than 
the transverse. Though the sides of 
this bridge are provided in some parts 
with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few 
men have resolution to walk to them 
and look over into the abyss : you in- 
voluntarily fall on your hands and feet, 
creep to the parapet, and peep over it. 
Looking down from this height about a 
minute gave me a violent head-ache. If 
the view from the top be painful and in- 
tolerable, that from below is delightful 
in an equal extreme ; it is impossible for 
the emotions arising from the sublime 
to be felt beyond what they are here : 
so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so 
light, and springing, as it were, up to 
heaven ! the rapture of the spectator is 
really indescribable ! The fissure con- 
tinuing narrow, deep, and straight, for 
a considerable distance above and be- 
low the bridge, opens a short but very 
pleasing view of the North mountain on 
one side, and Blue ridge on the other, 
at the distance, each of them, of about 
^ve miles. This bridge is in the county 



304 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 




Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek. 



of Rockbridge, to which it has given 
name, and affords a public and commo- 
dious passage over a valley which can 
not be crossed elsewhere for a consider- 
able distance. The stream passing un- 
der it is called Cedar creek ; it is a 
water of James river, and sufficient in 
the driest seasons to turn a gristmill, 
though its fountain is not more than two 
miles above." 

The description of Jefferson first at- 
tracted the attention of travellers to this 
remarkable spot. Of recent descrip- 
tions, the best is that by Miss Martineau, 
which is truly characteristic and inter- 
esting, and is as follows : — 

" At a mile from the bridge, the road 
turns off through a wood. While the 
stage rolled and jolted along the ex- 
tremely bad road, Mr. L. and I went pry- 
ing about the whole area of the wood, 
poking our horses* noses into every 
thicket, and between any two pieces of 
rock, that we might be sure not to miss 
our object; the driver smiling after us, 
whenever he could spare attention from 



his own not very easy task, of getting 
his charge along. With all my atten- 
tion, I could see no precipice, and was 
concluding to follow the road without 
any more vagaries, when Mr. L., who 
was a little in advance, waved his whip 
as he stood beside his horse, and said : 
' Here is the bridge !' I then perceived 
that we were nearly over it, the piled 
rocks on either hand forming a barrier, 
which prevents a careless eye from per- 
ceiving the ravine which it spans. I 
turned to the side of the road, and rose 
in my stirrup to look over, but I found 
it would not do. I went on to the inn, 
deposited my horse, and returned on 
foot to the bridge. 

" With all my efforts, I could not look 
down steadily into what seemed the bot- 
tomless abyss of foliage and shadow. 
From every point of the bridge 1 tried, 
and all in vain. I was heated and ex- 
tremely hungry, and much vexed at my 
own weakness. The only way was to 
go down and look up ; though where the 
bottom could be was past my imagining. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



305 



the view from the top seeming to be of 
foliage below foliage for ever. 

" The way to the glen is through a 
field opposite the inn, and down a steep, 
rough, rocky path, which leads under 
the bridge, and a few yards beyond it. 
I think the finest view of all is from this 
path, just before reaching the bridge. 
The irregular rock, spanning a chasm 
of one hundred and sixty feet in height, 
and from sixty to ninety in width, is 
ctquisitely tinted with every shade of 
gray and bi'own ; while trees encroach 
from the sides, and overhang from the 
top, between which and the arch there 
is an additional depth of fifty-six feet. 
It was now early in July ; the trees were 
in their brightest and thickest foliage ; 
and the tall beeches under the arch con- 
trasted their verdure with the gray rock, 
and received the gilding of the sunshine, 
as it slanted into the ravine, glittering 
in the drip from the arch, and in the 
splashing and tumbling waters of Cedar 
creek, which ran by our feet. Swal- 
lows were flying about under the arch. 
What others of their tribe can boast of 
such a home 1 

" We crossed and recrossed the creek 
on stepping-stones, searching out every 
spot to which any tradition belonged. 
Under the arch, thirty feet from the water, 
the lower part of the letters G. W. may 
be seen, carved in the rock. When 
Washington was a young man he climbed 
up hither, to leave this record of his 
visit. There are other inscriptions of the 
same kind ; and above them a board, on 
which are painted the names of two per- 
sons, who have thought it worth while 
thus to immortalize their feat of climb- 
ing highest. But their glory was but 
transient, after all. They have been out- 
stripped by a traveller, whose achieve- 
ment will probably never be rivalled; 
for he would not have accomplished it 
if he could, by any means, have declined 
the task. Never was a wonderful deed 
more involuntarily performed. There 
is no dispai-agement lo the gentleman 
in saying this : it is only absolving him 
from the charge of foolhardiness. 

" This young man, named Blacklock, 
accompanied by two friends, visited the 
natural bridge ; and, being seized with 



the ambition appropriate to the place, 
of writing his name highest, climbed the 
rock opposite to the part selected by 
Washington, and carved his initials. 
Others have perhaps seen what Mr. 
Blacklock had overlooked — that it was 
a place easy to ascend, but from which 
it is impossible to come down. He was 
forty feet or more from the path ; his 
footing was precarious ; he was weary 
with holding on while carving his name ; 
and his head began to swim when he 
saw the impossibility of getting down 
again. He called to his companions 
that his only chance was to climb up 
upon the bridge, without hesitation or 
delay. They saw this, and with anguish 
agreed between themselves that the 
chance was a very bare one. They 
cheered him, and advised him to look 
neither up nor down. On he went, 
slanting upward from under the arch, 
creeping round a projection, on which 
no foothold is visible from below, and 
then disappearing in a recess filled up 
with foliage. Long and long they wait- 
ed, watching for motion, and listening 
for crashing among the trees. He must 
have been now one hundred and fifty 
feet above them. At length their eyes 
were so strained that they could see no 
more, and they had almost lost all hope. 
There was little doubt that he had fallen 
while behind the trees, where his body 
would never be found. They went up 
to try the chance of looking for him 
from above. They found him lying in- 
sensible on the bridge. He could just 
remember reaching the top, when he 
immediately fainted." 

Passage through the Blue Ridge. — 
The following interesting description 
is in Jefferson's Notes on Virginia : — 

" The passage of the Potomac through 
the Blue ridge is one of the most stu- 
pendous scenes. You stand on a very 
high point of land ; on your right comes 
up the Shenandoah, having ranged along 
the foot of the mountain a hundred miles 
to seek a vent ; on your left approaches 
the Potomac, in quest of a passage also ; 
in the moment of their junction, they 
rush together against the mountain, rend 
it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The 
firstglance of this scene hurries our senses 



20 



306 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



into the opinion that this eai'th has been 
created in time ; that the mountains were 
formed first ; that the rivers began to 
flow afterward ; that in this place par- 
ticularly they have been dammed up by 
the Blue ridge of mountains, and have 
formed an ocean which filled the whole 
valley; that, contiiming to rise, they 
have at length broken over at this spot, 
and have torn the mountain down from 
its summit to its base. The piles of 
rock on each hand, but particularly on 
the Shenandoah, the evident marks of 
their disrupture and evulsion from their 
beds by the most powerful agents of 
nature, corroborate the impression. But 
the distant finishing which nature has 
given to the picture, is of a very differ- 
ent character ; it is a true contrast to 
the foregi'ound ; it is as placid and de- 
lightful as that is wild and tremendous; 
for the mountain being cloven asunder, 
she presents to your eye, thi'ough the 
cleft, a small catch of smooth blue hori- 
zon, at an infinite distance in the plain 
country, inviting you, as it were, from 
the riot and tumult roaring around, to 
pass through the breach and participate 
of the calm below. Here the eye ulti- 
mately composes itself; and that way, 
too, the road happens actually to lead. 
You cross the Potomac above the junc- 
tion, pass along its side through the base 
of the mountain for three miles, its ter- 
rible precipices hanging in fragments 
over you, and, within about twenty miles, 
reach Fredericktown, and the fine coun- 
try round that. This scene is worth a 
voyage across the Atlantic ; yet here, 
as in the neighborhood of the natural 
bridge, are people who have passed their 
lives within half a dozen miles, and have 
never been to survey these monuments 
of a war between rivers and mountains, 
which must have shaken the earth itself 
to its centre." 

IVier^s Cave, on the northwest side 
of the Blue ridge, is between two and 
three thousand feet in length, and com- 
prises various apartments, containing 
beautiful stalactites and incrustations, 
which display the most sparkling bril- 
liancy when surveyed by the light of a 
torch. Near this there is another sin- 
gular cavern, called Madison's cave ; and 



in one of the ridges of the Allegany 
mountains is Blowing cave, from which a 
current of air continually issues, strong 
enough to prostrate the weeds at the dis- 
tance of sixty feet. One of the largest 
mounds in the valley of the Ohio is in 
Virginia, near the Ohio, fourteen miles 
below Wheeling. It is about three hun- 
dred feet in diameter at the base, sixty 
at the top, and the perpendicular height 
is seventy feet. It contains thousands 
of human skeletons. 

Valley of Virginia. — After leaving 
Winchestei', distant from Woodstock 
about thirty miles east or noi'theast, we 
bid farewell to everything like a rail- 
road, and plunge into the midst of the 
valley of Virginia. The country is un- 
dulating in its surface, of limestone for- 
mation, and distinguished for its roman- 
tic and beautiful sceneiy. Through this 
valley flows the majestic Shenandoah, 
one of those rivers still bearing its an- 
cient Indian name, too melodious and 
expressive to be changed for a better. 

The Shenandoah flows on, a limpid 
stream, shelving rocks, lying in strata, 
being often visible on its bottom. Thus 
the river pursues its course to Harper's 
Ferry, where, joining its forces to the 
Potomac, it yields its name to tliat river, 
and having saluted the president's man- 
sion familiarly, and the United States 
capitol at a more respectful distance, pro- 
ceeds to bury itself in the ocean. Here 
are some fine views of the Blue ridge, 
that famous cordon of mountains, stretch- 
ing itself like a giant rampart across the 
state, ascending majestically toward the 
sky in ambitious and impressive forms, 
catching and deepening its serene ceru- 
lean blue, and spreading its own ample 
shadows over the far-reaching vale be- 
low. Here a painter's brush would find 
strong and striking originals; the poet's 
lyre would waken the sweetest music 
among the mountain solitudes above, or 
the green sequestered shades below. 
This, too, is the region of thriving farm- 
ers, of fat cattle, and fertile lands. In 
this valley there are many Germans and 
descendants of Germans. 

Twenty-five miles west of Winchester 
is a section or an adjunct of the Blue 
ridge, sometimes called the Ice moun- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



ho: 



tain, from a very peculiar formation of 
a subterrene, or rather a subsaxumous 
coat of ice, which, on turning up a stone 
on the warmest day of summer, discov- 
ers itself with a refreshing coolness. It 
is, in fact, a natural and magnificent re- 
frigerator. No night can be passed here 
without feeling the necessity of a blan- 
ket. The usual place of resort in the 
vicinity goes by the name of " Capon 
springs." 

Taking the summit of the Alleganies 
as a central point of view to overlook 
the state, we find first a wide tract of 
adjacent country, diversified with all the 
irregularity of a mountainous region, 
varying fiom rough and rocky heights, 
to picturesque and shady valleys, many 
of which are rich in mines and mineral 
springs, where the crowds of gay visit- 
ers, mingling with invalids, enliven the 
picturesque scenes with groups strongly 
contrasting with the wildness and soli- 
tude of nature. 

Next eastward of this lies a section, 
extending to tidewater in the rivers, 
which amounts to 15,386 square miles; 
and between that and the eastern boun- 
dary is another, with its lower level and 
navigable waters, and also the sites of 
the old settlements, having an area of 
11,805 square miles. 

But the western section, lying beyond 
the Alleganies, is the most extensive and 
flourishing. It contains 28,387 square 
miles. Climate, soil, situation, and the 
origin of the people, have great influ- 
ence in stamping a variety of character- 
istics on these different districts ; for 
while the low eastern regions are warm, 
and the soil cultivated by slaves, facilities 
for navigation have raised large towns 
amid extensive plantations ; in the high- 
er disti'icts, other objects and modes of 
culture have been adopted, while slaves 
are less numerous, and they often work 
side by side with their masters. The 
relations established by the natural fea- 
tures of the western district cement the 
people more intimately with the Missis- 
sippi valley than with those of the At- 
lantic borders. So great is the difference 
of seasons found in different parts of 
Virginia, that vegetation is often far ad- 
vanced in the spring at Wheeling when 



I it is hardly perceptible along the ridge 
I which divides the waters of the Monon- 
! gahela from those of the Ohio, in that 
remarkable, narrow, northwest gore of 
land before mentioned. The mean ele- 
vation of central Virginia is eighteen 
hundred or two thousand feet above the 
Ohio, the descent to which is by several 
plains or natural terraces — gradually 
' descending to the west. The climate 
I of the mountainous regions resembles 
that of the Atlantic coast, as high up as 
latitude forty-three degrees. 
] There is a remarkable mountain-ridge 
from fifteen to twenty miles distant from 
I the Blue ridge, to which it is related 
! as the Blue ridge is to the Alleganies 
proper. It may be traced through Ma- 
ryland in the Parr-spring ridge, Penn- 
' sylvania (where, as in Virginia, it has no 
distinctive name), and through New Jer- 
sey in the Schooley's mountain ridge. 

The counties through which the ridge 
passes in Virginia are Loudoun, Fau- 
quiei", Culpepper, Orange, Albemarle, 
Nelson, Amherst, Bedford, Franklin, and 
Henry. 

On most maps the mountains present 
a confused mass ; but they are, in fact, 
divided into five or six distinct ridges. 
Indeed, says Darby, " the whole state, 
from the head of tidewater to Ohio river, 
is formed of a series of mountain-chains 
and intervening valleys." But the Blue 
ridge is the most prominent, stands very 
detached, has the highest points in the 
Appalachian chain southwest of Dela- 
ware river, and everywhere marks the 
lines between counties. 

The interim- of Virginia was almost 
uninhabited, even by savages, when the 
country was first known to Europeans. 
A few tribes only occupied any part of 
its surface, and these dwelt chiefly along 
the tidewaters. It is capable of sup- 
porting a population of three millions, 
even if the arable parts were as thickly 
inhabited as some of the most populous 
disti-icts ; but a combination of causes 
has prevented the increase for some 
years past.* 

* We improve this allusion to the nsiricultural resources 
of this state, to iiitroiluce in a note tlii' luUowing iaterest- 
ing letter from a :-(.ii of Virginia, the Hon. William C. 
Hives, our inini.^t.-r to France. It has reference to his 
visit to the Woil.iV i'^ir at l.oiiilon; and some valua- 



308 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



Potomac River. — This noble river 
abounds with fish, the principal being 
the white shad, the herring, and the stur- 
geon. The latter is taken in a manner 
said to be peculiar to this section of the 
country. The sturgeon is a noble deni- 

ble practical remarks will be found in it respecting the 
application of science to the development of the natural 
resources of the state. It also records the succfsa, in Eng- 
land, of M'Cormick's reaping-machine, the invention of a 
citizen of this ancient commonwealth : — 

" Paris, Tuesday, September 30, 1851. 
" My Dear C : Having a week or two at my dis- 
posal during the last days of the summer. I determined to 
go over the channel and see for myself that of which the 
description had filled so many mouths and newspapers 
for the last four or five months— the Great Exhibition, 
or what the French more appropriwlely call it. the Expo- 
sition Universelle. I am not prepared to say with the 
queen of Sheba, after her inspection of the riches of Solo- 
mon. 'The half was not told me;' but, on the contrary, 
making some deduction from the oriental extravagance 
with which this wonder of the age has been celebrated 
by both pen and tongue, I am yet free to say enough re- 
mained to make it an object of just and rational curiosity 
to all who were in circumstances to visit it. 

" A vifit to the Crystal Palace is, in truth, a sort of figu- 
rative voyage of circumnavigation, by which, within the 
limits o( a comparatively small space, and by a few days' 
industrious ol)5ervation. you traverse successively the va- 
rious quarters of the globe, and see before you the pro- 
ductions, the arts, the riches, and in some degree the 
respective national manners and customs of them all. 
And yet this is so contrived as to leave upon the mind of 
the beholder a strong impression of the material superi- 
ority, if not supremacy, of one of these nations over all 
the rest. England has the vast advantage in the Exhi 
bition of being at home. One full half of the fairy build- 
ing is allotted to the display of her riches and resources, 
her industry and power — in which her vast tributary pos- 
sessions in the East and the West (India. Canada, and the 
isles of the ocean), all glittering with barbaric pomp, are 
made to revolve in due order around the central orb, daz- 
zling by the splendor of her own accumulated and gor- 
geous wealth. The mind is so acted upon by this studi- 
ous display of boundless dominion, and riches, and power, 
in the hands of a single nation, that it hardly recovers from 
the impression in pas.sing through the successive depart- 
ments allotted to other nations ; for however well filled 
many of them are with the choicest productions of ex- 
quisite taste and superior skill, they all seem dwarfed in 
comparison with the gigantic development of England at 
home. In this state ot exhibited inferiority, these nations 
may legitimately take to themselves the consolation of the 
lion prostrate beneath the man in the painting — that the 
man, and not the lion, was the painter I 

" If France, which originated the idea of an exhibition 
of the products of the arts and industry of all nations, had 
been permitted by her internal condition to carry it into 
execution, and Paris instead of London had been the scene 
of its presentation, a very great diflTerence would, doubt- 
less, have been made in the relative position and appear- 
ance of the competing nations. In that case, the advan- 
tage of being chez soi, concurring with her unrivalled taste 
and artistic science, and the wonderful resources of her 
national genius and industry, would have assigned to her 
the rank of primacy which is now held by England in the 
London Exhibition. Nor would the othi'r nations have 
had reason to complain of the change of venue. The bright 
climate of France, and the cordial and genial temper of 
the people, so readily fraternizing with the other families 
of mankind, would have made of what has been a stern 
and somewhat jealous encounter of rival pretensions, a 
real jubilee of the heart and senses, marking an era in the 
social intercourse and happiness of nations, as^well as in 
their industrial progress. As it is, the Exhibition has 
mainly the character of a highly successful speculation, 
very sagaciously managed, on Hritish account. 

"You will wish to know what sort of figure we of the 
United States have made in this great international con- 
gress of industi-y and the arts. The objects which occu- 



zen of the waters, weighing from seven- 
ty-five to one hundred and fifty pounds. 
Every passenger up the Potomac has 
pi obably seen the prodigious leaps of this 
fish, sometimes to the height of ten feet, 
and his alacrity at mounting a cascade. 



py much the largest space in the Exhibition, and which 
have been the chief points, indeed, of popular attraction, 
are objects of luxury and ornament, exceedingly costly 
in both their material and workmansliip, and intended to 
minister to the factitious wants of overgrown wealth. 
In the British department alone I counted not less than 
twenty large rooms, with the inscription in glaring capi- 
tals above them of the adored ' precious metals.' The 
same general character of costly magnificence, varying 
only in the details, predominated in all the rest of the Eu- 
ropean departments, from the exquisite mosaics of Italy, 
and the rich silks, and porcelains, and jewelry, of France, 
to the beautiful and elaborate malachites of Kussia, and 
was conspicuous even in the 'barbaric pearl and gold' of 
the Asiatic and African contributions. 

" In entering into a competition of so much gorgeous- 
ness as this, it was hardly to be expected that so young, 
and simple, and republican a people as that of the United 
States, would make a very brilliant debut. I always re- 
gretted, therefore, that we entered the lists as general 
competitors. If we had gone in simply and avowedly to 
show the nations of the Old World some of the most valu- 
able improvements we had made in those manly and use- 
ful arts adapted to our circumstances and vigorous youth, 
and had contented ourselves with an allotment of space 
proportioned to that object, we should have avoided some 
mortification, at first, to our national pride. A large space, 
however, was demanded in the outset for the display of 
American contributions, which, after successive retrench- 
ments, remained imperfectly filled, and the effigy of the 
American eagle, in very exaggerated and colossal propor- 
tions, was conspicuously placed above the whole. ' The 
Times," the Coryphajus of the English press, immediately 
seized upon these circumstances with its accustomed be- 
nevolence toward the United States, taunting us with 'the 
solitude in the Crystal Palace over which the American 
eagle stretched its mighty wings,' and representing ' the 
space we had grasped in the Exhibition' as being us ' im- 
perfectly occupied as our vast continent.' 

" In spite of these mistakes of our own, and the ill-na- 
tured use made of them to our disadvantage by the critics, 
the solid and intrinsic merit of the American part of the 
Exhibition finally made itself felt and appreciated by all, 
and it is now, 1 think, universally admitted, even in Eng- 
land, where so many jealousies and prejudices are to be 
overcome, that, in an industrial and useful point of view, 
no nation contributed more to the Exhibition than the 
United States. I am most happy to be able to say to you 
that nothing has had so powerful an agency in working 
out this honorable result for our national reputation as a 
Virginian invention, of which you were one of the ear- 
liest patrons, and which has received the highest honors 
at the Exhibition, and is now making a sort of triumphal 
progress through England — I mean Si'Cormick's reaping- 
machine. It was the successful trial of this machine on 
the farm of Mr. Mechi, at Tip Tree, on the 29th of July 
last^-eliciting as it did the wonder and admiration of all 
who wituessed it — that commenced the reaction in favor 
of the American contributions to the Exhibition. The 
English people began then to think that some 'good thing 
might come out of our transatlantic Nazareth,' and from 
time to time they bestowed something more than a pas- 
sing, supercilious glance at the American department of 
the Crystal Palace, and found in it other products of Amer- 
ican genius and skill, which convinced them that, in this 
age of progress and invention, stimulated to extraordinary 
fecundity In the New World, there are not a few things 
they may learn with advantage of younger nations than 
them.eelves. 

" Of these other achievements of American ingenuity 

I have not the time to speak. You have seen them all 

noticed in the newspaper reports of the Exhibition : they 

I have, the greater part of them undoubtedly, a very high 

I order of merit; but I think I am not misled by a natural 

partiality for an invention of my own state when I say 

I that the reaping-machme has done most of all to redeem 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



309 



It is recorded that during the revolution- 
aiy war, one of these enormous fish de- 
scended from an aerial leap into a ferry- 
boat, and falling into the lap of an officer 
seated on the gunwale, broke his thigh ! 
It is caught in the Potomac by a naked 

the honor of onr country in the trying, and, to ue for a 
time, apparpntly hopeless contests of the Exhibition. In 
proof of tliis, it is eufficient to mention the fact that it is 
invariably placexl at the head of all the American triumphs 
in the various notices of the exhibition which have been 
from time to time published by the European press. I 
have now before me the leading article of ' The Times' of 
the 2d instant — the first number of that journal which ac- 
knowledged.the substantial success of the American part 
of the Exhibition — in which that success and the reaping- 
machine, which so much contributed to it, are thus no- 
ticed : — 

" -On the other hflnd, it is beyond all denial that every 
practical success of the season belongs to the Americans. 
Their consignments showed poorly at first, but came out 
well upon trial. Their reaping-machine has carried con- 
viction to the heart of the British agriculturist. Their re- 
volvers threaten to revolutionize military Uictics as com- 
pletely as the original discovery of gunpowder. Their 
yacht takes a class to itself 

" And again, in an article of the same journal of the 27th 
instant, reviewing the general result of the Exhibition, are 
the following remarks : — 

" ' One point that strikes us forcibly on a survey of the 
last few months is, the extraordiary contrast which the 
attractive and the useful features of the display present. 
It will be remembered that the American department was, 
at first, regarded as the poorest and least interesting of all 
foreign countries. Of late it has justly assumed a position 
of the first importance, as having brousht to the aid of our 
distressed agriculturists a machine which, if it realizes the 
anticipations of competenfjudges. will amply remunerate 
England for all her outlay connected with the Great Exhi- 
bition. The reaping-machine from the United States is 
the most valuable contribution from abroad to the stock 
of our previous knowledge that we have yet discovered, 
and several facts in connection with it are not a little re- 
markable.' 

'•It has been a source of patriotic and I trust legitimate 
pride to me, as a Virginian, that an invention emanating 
from my own state, and I may say from my own neigh- 
borhood indeed, has done so much to procure honor to 
the American name abroad, and to vindicate the claims of 
American genius and enterprise to the respect and grati- 
tude of other nations. In these feelings you and your 
friends around you, who know so well both the invention 
and the inventor, will. I am sure, largely share. I can not 
describe to you the feelings of home delight, not unmixed 
with triumph, with which, on one of the days that I at- 
tended '.he Exhibition, I saw the ' Virginia Grain-Reaper' 
(for by that name M'Cormick himself entered his machine 
on the official catalogue of the Exhibition) as much sur- 
rounded by curious and interested spectators as the price- 
less Indian diamond — the Koh-i-noor, or Mountain of Light 
— which usually attracts the largest and most eager crowds. 
It is in the country, however, when it is at work, sweep- 
ing with ease over its fifteen or twenty acres of thick- 
standing wheat a daj', that it excites the strongest enthu- 
siasm, as it achieves its greatest triumphs. On some of 
these occasions as many as fifteen hundred or two thou- 
sand persons have been assembled to witness its perform- 
ance : and they have cheered it with loud and hearty plau- 
dits, when it has finished a row or turned a corner of the 
field, as if it were some great living hero or conqueror. 
M'Cormick himself has been ftted; and when in acknowl- 
edging a toast, with true Washingtonian modesty and 
.Spartan brevity, he said he was ' mcjre accustomed to 
Working than speaking, and preferred always that Iiis ma- 
chine should speak for it.-<elt,' he brought down as thun- 
dering applause as ever greeted an orator in the house of 
fiirnuions. 

"Everybody in England now wonders that a machine 
at once so simple and so effective, and so precisely adapted 
to the wants of British agriculture, should never have 
been invented and brought to perfection by some of their 
own people, and that it should have been reserved for a 



hook attached to a line, and drawn witli 
skill under the belly. It is remarkable 
that this fish is good only in certain riv- 
ers : those of the Delaware being thought 
unfit to eat, while those of the Hudson 
and Potomac aie considered a delicacy. 

modest inhabitant of the mountains of Virginia, more than 
three thousand miles distant, to conceive, and execute, 
and bring to them, what so exactly suited them, without 
their having been able previously to form a distinct con- 
ception either of its nature or its practicability. What 
renders this the more extraordinary (and it is a circum- 
stance which greatly enhances both the merit and the glory 
of the American invention) is, that the minds of tlie most 
ingenious mechanicians in Great Britain had been earnest- 
ly directed to the same object, for the catalogue of the 
Exhibition registers no less than eight different but very 
imperfect essays toward its accomplishment. My own 
observation least year at the annual meeting of the Royal 
Agricultural Society of England, convinced me that a good 
reaping-machine was the great desideratum in British ag- 
riculture. In the immense and almost infinitely diversi- 
fied collection of agricultural implements displayed there, 
no instrument of that kind was seen ; and yet it was evi- 
dent that, in a climate so humid and uncertain, some ac- 
celerated and at the same time economical process of get- 
ting in their harvest was a matter of the highest impor- 
tance. I immediately wrote to our friend C. J. Meriwether 
(as he will doubtless recollect), that if the Virginia reaper 
were sent out to the Cireat Exhibition of the next year, 
for which the arrangements were then commencing, it 
would make the fortune of its inventor. It has not only 
done this, but it has reaped a horrent of honor and renown 
I for himself, his native state, and the reputation of American 
genius in general, which is a result far more to be prized. 

" With this encouraging example before us, are we not 
strongly invited to some change in the direction which 
has been heretofore so exclusively given to the youthful 
talent of our state? As soon as our young men leave col- 
lege, they crowd by hundreds into what are called the 
learned professions, which are already filled to repletion ; 
or they devote themselves to a still more sterile and un- 
profitable employment of their faculties, for both them- 
selves and the country, in mere party politics. If the 
same amount of mind and energy were applied to those 
useful practical pursuits in which science is the auxiliary 
of art in indefinitely multiplying the results of labor, and 
unfolding the latent capabilities of nature, what a magical 
change would soon be manifested in the prosperity and 
power of our ancient commonwealth — rich, as all admit 
her to be, in every element of moral, intellectual, and ma- 
terial wealth I 

" In reflecting upon this subject, as I often do with a 
soUcitude ever alive to the honor and destinies of my 
native state, I have thought that some modification of 
the systems of education pursued in most of our public 
schools would greatly contribute, and is perhaps indis- 
pensable, to introduce the change which appears so desi- 
rable in the active direction of our mental resources. 
Could not that education be made more practical, without 
abating anything Irom the high standard of science and 
learning which should characterize it, simply by giving 
more development to the applications of science to the \ a- 
rious branches of industry and art, as is done in the admi- 
rable institutions of this country, the Ecole PolyU chnique, 
the Ecole des Pouts et Chausse.es. the Ecole des Mines, and 
the Ecole Cciitrale des Arts el Manufactures, from which 
England, with her usual sagacity, has taken a hint in the 
establishment of her '(jovernment School of Mines and 
.Science applied to the Arts,' not being able to engraft 
these new studies upon the ancient and chartered systems 
of her universities. Whether the object is to be accom- 
plished with us by some modification in existing institu- 
tions, or by the estabhshment of new and special institu- 
tions, is a question on which I am not prepared to pro- 
nounce an opinion. Those who are more competent than 
myself, recognising the utility of the end. will, I trust, 
devise the proper means, and my prayers will be for the 
success of what<.'ver they shall adopt, as they ever are for 
the happiness an<i prosperity, in ail things, of my native 
land. Most truly and faithfully yours, 

"W. C. Rives." 



~} 



310 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



The wild birds which frequent the 
bosom and shores of the Potomac, are 
very numerous. Among them are the 
swan, the wild goose, the red-head shov- 
eler, the black-head shoveler, the duck 
and mallard, the black duck, the blue- 
winged teal, the green-winged teal, the 
widgeon, and the far-celebrated can- 
vass-back. This duck, which we believe 
is unrivalled in the world for richness of 
flavor, is one of a class called drift-fowl, 
from their habit of floating in the mid- 
dle of the river when at rest. The two 
species of shoveler have the same habit, 
and are scai'cely inferior in flavor. The 
canvass-back, it is supposed, breeds on 
the borders of the northern lakes, or on 
the shores of Hudson's bay ; and in their 
migrations confine their pasture almost 
exclusively to the Chesapeake and Po- 
tomac. It is well ascertained that they 
feed on the bulbous root of a grass which 
grows on the flats in these rivers, and 
which is commonly known as wild cel- 
ery. It is said, that during a hard 
I winter, some forty years ago, a strong 
wind blew so much of the water off the 
flats of James river, that the remainder 
I froze to the bottom, enclosing the long 
tops of this grass so closely in the ice, 
I that when it broke up, and was floated 
off" in the spring, it tore whole fields of 
I it up by the roots, and destroyed the 
1 pasture. Since that time the canvass- 
! back has never been seen on the river. 
The bald duck feeds very frequently 
among these water-fowl; and not hav- 
ing the power to dive entirely under 
water in search of food, he watches for 
the rising of the canvass-back, and, by 
his superior quickness on the wing, 
seizes on the celery the moment it ap- 
pears above the surface, and escapes 
with it to the shore. 

The canvass-back is often shot from 
behind blinds of brush, which conceal 
the sportman, in the midst of the feed- 
ing ground. There is a practice, how- 
ever, of " tolling them in," as it is called, 
by shaking a colored handkerchief tied 
I'd the branch of a decayed tree. On 
what propensity of the bird the success 
of this manoeuvre is founded, it would 
be difficult to say. There is no doubt 
of the fact, however, that they are thus 



decoyed within gun-shot ; and it is re- 
lated of an old sportsman on the Poto- 
mac, that a long queue of red hair, 
which he wore in a brush, and shook 
over his shoulder, served the purpose 
admirably well. Perhaps we have yet 
to discover that birds have curiosity. 

Among the many varieties of wild fowl 
found on the Potomac, below Harper's 
Ferry, is the wild swan. The young 
bird is considered a great delicacy ; 
while the old one is hard and without 
flavor. In a book on the District of Co- 
lumbia, by Mr. Elliott, there are some 
curious particulars respecting their hab- 
its, and the manner of taking them. 

" This noble bird," says the author, 
"is seen floating nearthe shores, in flocks 
of some two or three hundred, white as 
the driven snow, and from time to time 
emitting fine, sonorous, and occasionally 
melodious songs — so loud, that they 
might be heard, on a still evening, two 
or three miles. There are two kinds, 
so called from their respective notes — 
the one the trumpeter, and the other 
the hooper ; the trumpeter is the largest, 
and, when at full size, will measure from 
five to six feet from the bill to the point 
of the toe, and fi'om seven to eight feet 
from the tip of one wing to the tip of 
the other, when stretched and expanded. 
They are sagacious and wary, and de- 
pend moi'e on the sight than on the 
sense of smell. On a neck nearly three 
feet in length, they are enabled to ele- 
vate their heads so as to see and dis- 
tinguish, with a quick and penetrating 
eye, objects at a great distance ; and by 
means of this same length of neck, they 
feed in slack tides, by immersing, as is 
their habit, nearly all of the body, and 
throwing only their feet and tails out in 
three or four feet water, and on the flatty 
shores they frequent, generally beyond 
gunshot ; the sportsman availing him- 
self, however, of a peculiar propensity 
(of which we shall presently speak-more 
particularly) prevailing with them, and 
some of the other water-fowl, often toll 
them within reach of their fire. The 
swans remain here the wliole winter, 
only shifting their ground, in severe 
weather, from the frozen to the open 
part of the river, and dropping down 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



311 



into the salts, where it is rarely frozen. 
They get into good condition soon after 
their arrival in autumn, and remain fat 
until toward spring, when, a few weeks 
before their departure (about the first 
of March), they gradually become thin- 
ner in flesh ; and in the latter part of 
their sojourn here, are found so poor 
and light, that, when shot, the gunner 
gets notliing fit for use but the feathers. 
Whether this circumstance be owing to 
their having exhausted the means of 
subsistence at their feeding-places, or 
that they are taught by Him who rules 
the universe, in small as well as great 
things, thus by abstaining, to prepare 
themselves for the long aerial voyages 
which they are about to undertake, 
we pretend not to determine with cei'- 
tainty; there is nothing more wonderful 
in this than in the fact, which is noto- 
rious, that they, by exercise, regularly 
and assiduously fit themselves for this 
continuous effort, to bear themselves 
through the air to the distance of per- 
haps a thousand miles or leagues. Large 
flocks are seen every day rising from the 
rivei', and taking a high position, flying 
out of sight, and apparently moving in a 
circuit to a considerable distance, again 
returning to or near the same place, du- 
ring the last two or three weeks of their 
stay. 

" The swan is ' tolled' by a dog that 
is taught to play about within easy call 
of his master, at the edge of the water; 
the hunter contrives to place himself 
behind a log, or some other cover well 
concealed, before he begins his opera- 
tions, taking care to observe that the 
direction of the wind is not unfavorable 
to him, and that the flock he means to 
toll is near enough to distinguish such ob- 
jects on the shore, and under no alarm at 
the time. By what motive these fowls 
are influenced, we have not heard satis- 
factorily explained; but certain it is, 
they are very commonly brought in from 
some hundreds of yards' distance, in this 
way, to within point-blank shot. It is 
said, and perhaps truly, in the case of 
the dog, that they fancy themselves in 
pursuit of some animal, as the fag or 
mink, by which their young are annoyed 
at their breeding-places. 



" The wild goose is yet more wary and 
vigilant to keep out of harm's way than 
the swan. He too is sharp-sighted, 
but depends much on his sense of smell 
for protection : this is so well known to 
the huntsman, that he never attempts, 
however he may be concealed from this 
bird, to approach it from the direction 
of the wind ; since he would assuredly 
be scented before he could get within 
gun-shot, and left to lament his error, by 
the sudden flight of the whole flock. 
These geese, toward spring, often alight 
on the land, and feed on the herbage in 
fields ; and sometimes in such numbers 
as to do great injury to the wheat-fields 
on the borders of the river." 

Geological Facts. — Some twenty 
or thirty feet below the level of the plain 
around Richmond, occurs one of the most 
remarkable deposites in this or any coun- 
try. The place in which it has been 
found most fully developed, is where the 
small brook at the east end and on the 
north side of Clay street empties into 
Shockoe creek. On the bank of that 
brook will be seen a stratum from ten 
to fifteen feet thick, which most per- 
sons would call white clay; but Pro- 
fessor W. B. Rogers (the state geologist) 
of the university, has ascertained that 
it is made up almost entirely of animal - 
culce or infusoria — that is, microscopic 
animals. These skeletons, consisting of 
silex, are incredibly small, so that each 
cubic inch of this infusorial earth con- 
tains many thousand millions of them. 
How inconceivably numerous, thei'efore, 
must they be, to form a deposite at least 
ten feet thick, and extending many miles 
over the adjoining country ! It has ex- 
cited great interest among the learned 
naturalists of Europe as well as of our 
own country, and henceforth none of 
them will visit Richmond without at 
once searching for this deposite. Pro- 
fessor Ehrenberg, of Prussia, the most 
eminent of living microscopists, has ex- 
amined specimens from this place, and 
discovered in them at least one hundred 
and thirty species of these minutest of 
animals. To discover them in this al- 
most impalpable dust, requires a power- 
ful microscope; and doubtless, therefore, 
many who look at specimens with the 



312 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



naked eye, will be very incredulous as 
to these statements. But they are con- 
sidered as established facts by the sci- 
entific world. 

The substance may be distinguished 
from clay by being much lighter when 
dry. It is not, indeed, much heavier 
than magnesia, when pure. In other 
parts of the world it is sometimes used 
for polishing-powder. From a slight 
trial, it is believed that the Richmond de- 
posite would answer the same purpose. 

Beneath the infusorial deposite is a 
greenish or bluish clay, containing nu- 
merous seashells, or rather casts and 
moulds of them, with sharks' teeth, &c. ; 
but these, although of deep interest to 
geologists, will not excite much atten- 
tion from others. 

It can hardly be doubted, that when 
this region was covered by the ocean, 
the waters swarmed with microscopic 
animalculaa, whose skeletons, as the ani- 
mals died, dropped to the bottom, and 
in the course of ages accumulated pro- 
digiously. But when we recollect how 
astonishingly fast they multiply, we need 
not suppose many centuries necessary to 
produce even this extraordinary thick- 
ness. 

Scenery and Climate. — So beauti- 
ful is that portion of the state which is 
encircled by the lofty summits of the 
Allegany, that scarcely can its inhabit- 
ants be charged with blinding prejudice 
in believing and styling it the " garden 
of the state," or even the " Eden of the j 
world." The climate presents a pleas- 
ant medium between the extremes of j 
heat and cold, occasioning particular! 
prevalence to neither the fevers incident 
to the one, nor the pulmonary complaints 
belonging to the other. The moun- j 
tains — still the haunt of game, and oft- 
entimes re-echoing the sound of the 
hunter's gun, the baying of his hounds, or , 
perchance the mirthful laugh of young 
equestrians, who seek amusement on 
their sides and summits, by the exhil- 
arating exercise to which they invite — 
give healthful relief from the ennui of 
southern life ; and at the same time, 
crowned with foliage, or capped with 
fire, reflecting and dispersing the rays 
of the rising or setting sun, they impart 



variety to the scenery, and render it 
grand beyond the power of description. 
Reposing in their midst, are those 
medicinal waters, which give health to 
the pilgrim and pleasure to its devotee 
from the most distant borders of our 
land. The soil, in parts at least, of 
high fertility, adds beauty to the land- 
scape, by the luxuriant covering which 
it spreads over the face of nature. 

In the months of spring, the eye is 
everywhere met by wide fields of clo- 
ver, colored by its blossoms, and load- 
ing the air with fragrance. Later in 
the year, scattei-ed here and there, are 
seen plantations of tobacco, fields of 
corn of gigantic growth, and of hemp — 
the dark, rich foliage of the latter rising 
far above the barriers that would hem 
it in. Nor does the hoar frost of winter 
entirely despoil the landscape of its love- 
liness. Even then, lay revelling in the 
warm sunlight of each genial day, fields 
of grain, that, anticipating the early 
spring, have already put on their dress 
of green, in which to wait its coming. 

But let us turn from this to another 
portion of Virginia — a portion far less 
favored in respect to soil and climate, 
still viewed, perhaps, with scarcely less 
partial satisfaction by those who have 
had long familiarity with its droughts 
and heats — have inhaled from infancy 
its pestilential breath, and with every 
autumn, greeting as old acquaintances, 
have lustily and, forsooth, involuntarily 
shaken hands with its chills and fevers. 
Scarcely does the traveller leave, with 
the setting sun, the blue lofty summits 
of the Allegany, as he is informed by 
the increasing imiformity of scenery, 
multitudinous marshes, forests of ever- 
green, and wide-spread plains of sand, 
that he is in verity entering upon the 
pine barrens of the South Atlantic coast. 
On every side he observes tracts of land 
lying waste, half overgrown with briers 
and thistles, or low underwood, which, 
he is told, is left to regain its strength, 
by the rest of several seasons, or per- 
haps has been " turned out" — that is, 
given over to a second growth of forest. 
Much of the wooded land around him, 
densely covered with full-grown pines, 
he will find to be of this last description. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



313 



Meager herds of cattle wander through 
the tall coarse grass, or feed on the ref- 
use of cornfields. Tracts of corn and 
cotton are, at least to the planter's eye, 
relieving features of the landscape. 

But aside from the peculiarities of 
natural scenery, there are others whidi 
can not fail to fix the eye of the stran- 
ger, in traversing this portion of Vir- 
ginia. He will observe the singular 
appearance given to country houses, by 
the common custom of placing the chim- 
neys exterior to the main building. He 
will also notice a scarcity of barns ; and 
if, perchance, on the borders of some 
pleasant grove, or in the outskirts of a 
forest, he spies a rude shelter which he 
would mistake for a barn, he is at once 
informed that he sees before him a coun- 
try church, where a periodical discourse 
calls together a multitude of wealthy 
planters from ten, fifteen, or even twenty 
miles around. But though in this warm 
climate, cattle require no lodging-places, 
still a destitution of out-houses will in 
no wise be observed to be a characteris- 
tic of a southern residence. Conspicu- 
ous enough will be seen a meat-house, 
and from this, as a centre, radiate many 
humble dwellings, constituting almost a 
village of themselves. Fine flourishing 
orchards, filling up the rear-ground of 
the picture, will for the most part be 
looked for in vain. Even figs, peaches, 
apricots, and grapes — which, in this fa- 
voring temperature, might be expected 
to multiply in profusion — are generally 
far from abundant. 

To the prevalence of fevers we have 
already alluded. Regular as the pes- 
tiferous dews and decay of foliage in 
August and September, so regular are 
their ravages on human prey. Friend 
then anxiously watches the countenance 
of friend, in dread expectancy of tracing 
there the saffron mark of the king of 
terrors. Still, long familiarity with dis- 
ease, and practical skill acquired for its 
control, have, to a considerable degree, 
given to the inhabitants a sort of reck- 
lessness and seeming insensibility to the 
extent to which it prevails ; and question 
one of them if his locality be healthful, 
and you will probably be assured that, 
though pestilence strolls through sur- 



rounding districts, his own is the favor- 
ite abode of Esculapius. And you will 
not discover that it is otherwise, till, as 
the sickly season approaches, you see 
on every hand increasing symptoms of 
disease; one after another, in alarming- 
ly rapid succession, sinking beneath its 
influence ; and it sometimes happens, 
that in a neighborhood thus afflicted, 
there are scarcely a sufficient number of 
well persons to take care of the sick. 

Turning northward fi'om Virginia — 
not in spring, but in the last months of 
summer — a pleasing change of scenery 
is soon apparent to the observer. The 
fields contract in their dimensions, yet 
present to the eye a greater variety, and 
everywhere assume a more fresh and 
healthful aspect. The tall brown grass 
gives place to verdant meadows. Herb- 
age becomes of a deeper green, and 
dense fields of corn and broomcovn wave 
gently to the breeze. Fruit-yards and 
orchards multiply in all directions, en- 
circling every little country cottage, and 
weighed down with their luxuriant bur- 
dens, imparting to the landscape an air 
of peace and plenty. Towns and vil- 
lages are of greater frequency. And in 
short, as you approach the great north- 
ern metropolis of trade, the whole ap- 
pearance of things is changed ; you are 
greeted in a different dialect ; different 
habits and manners attract attention ; 
and a certain something in the general 
air of all around, tells you that the hot 
haste of steam has in two short days 
conveyed you to another soil, beneath 
another sky, and among another people. 
Still you are yet, as it were, only in the 
great congress-place of states. Here 
citizens from both sides of Dixon's line 
meet, some on business, others in friend- 
ship. Peculiarities of diverse sections 
of our Union conflict with and modify 
each other ; and altogether there is pre- 
sented a sort of amalgamated medium 
or medley mass, retaining indeed much 
that is sectional, but intermingled with 
almost every variety of habits, appear- 
ance, and customs. 

History. — Some writers are of the 
opinion that Sebastian Cabot discovered 
the coast of Virginia, in his voyage of 
1498 ; but circumstances delayed the 



314 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



settlement, and even all particular ac- 
quaintance, with this part of the country 
until a much later period. In conse- 
quence of Martin Frobisher having taken 
back to England from Hudson river, as 
was pretended, a small piece of gold, 
the merchants of London, incited by 
the hope of enriching themselves as the 
Spaniards had done in South America, 
engaged in voyages of discovery with 
great zeal in 1578. But this spirit was 
short-lived, their enterprises being alto- 
gether unfortunate. The expedition of 
Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1578, and that 
in 1583, had no better success, one of 
the vessels, with the leader of the expe- 
dition, being lost on the way home. 

The next yeai", however, his step- 
brother, Sir Walter Raleigh, had better 
success, in a voyage he made to America, 
under one of the very liberal royal pat- 
ents so easily obtained at that period. 
On the 13lh of July the vessels entered 
Ocracoke inlet (now in North Carolina) ; 
and a landing was made at Wocoken 
island, where an amicable intercourse 
was opened with the natives. A colony 
was formed under Governor Lane; but 
as no gold was found, and prospects be- 
came discouraging, it was soon aban- 
doned, but not until the important dis- 
covery had been made of Chesapeake 
bay. Passing by one or two other un- 
successful attempts of the same kind, 
we come to the year 1606, when James- 
town was occupied by the celebrated 
Captain John Smith. 

Under the command of Captain New- 
port, on the 19th of December, three 
small vessels sailed for Virginia with 
one hundred and five colonists. The 
aggregate numbers of tons of all these 
vessels was one hundred and sixty ; and 
they were detained on the English coast 
six weeks by the weather. 

Taking the usual course of a southern 
passage at that day, they steered first for 
the Canary islands, and then stopped at 
the West Indies ; and the consequence 
was, that the expedition did not arrive 
at the Delawaie until April 26th of the 
following year. Dissensions had arisen 
during the voyage, which could not be 
pacified before making the land, because 
the instructions delivered them by royal 



authority were sealed, and not to be 
opened until after the landing. 

The capes of the Chesapeake then 
received the names which they still bear, 
after the two sons of King James — 
Charles and Henry. The first landing 
was effected on Cape Henry, and there 
the instructions were read, which ap- 
pointed a council for the government of 
the country, among which was Smith. 
Such, however, was the opposition made 
to him, that he was excluded by a vote, 
and Wingfield was elected pi-esident. 
The colonists soon re-embarked, sailed 
into the bay, and entered a fine river, 
which they named James, in honor of 
the king, though the natives called it 
Powhatan. Proceeding up the stream 
about fifty miles, they chose a spot for 
a town. The president, through some 
foolish jealousy of his people, refused 
permission to erect a fort or to allow 
military exercises, but sent Smith and a 
few other men to make discoveries ; 
while, by the exertions of Kendall, a 
half-moon was constructed of the boughs 
of trees, as a feeble breastwork. 

Jamestown, seven miles fiom Wil- 
liamsburg, is now a deserted spot, con- 
taining only a few remains of its ancient 
importance. It is truly an interesting 
place, as the first ground occupied by a 
permanent colony within the boundaries 
of the country, and the scene of the 
principal events, before mentioned, con- 
nected with the early settlement. 

James city was one of the eight origi- 
nal shires into which Virginia was di- 
vided in 1634, and is twenty-thi-ee miles 
long by about eight miles wide, being 
bounded on the north and south by York 
and James rivers. The population at 
the last census was 1,325 whites, 1,947 
slaves, 507 free colored persons — in all, 
3,779. 

Jamestown is the spot which was oc- 
cupied by Captain John Smith and his 
companions, and is a point of land be- 
longing to the tract that extends into 
James river. The current is gradually 
wearing away the land. The only re- 
mains are the stone tower of an old, 
ruinous church, of unknown date, and 
the churchyard. The Westover manu- 
script says a church was erected here 



316 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



very soon after the beginning of the set- 
tlement, but it cost only fifty pounds, and 
therefore must have been but a small 
and perishable building. The edifice 
of which the remains are now to be 
seen, must have been of a later date, and 
may have been the second which, as we 
learn from Smith's journal, was in ruins 
in 1617. If so, the venerable remains 
represented in the cut must be two hun- 
dred and thirty years old. 

This vicinity is also remarkable for 
the invasion of Arnold, January 3, 1781, 
and for two actions fought here between 
General La Fayette and the troops of 
Cornwallis, June 25 and July 8, 1781. 

But to return to the narrative of early 
events. While on his journey of dis- 
covery. Smith penetrated to the falls of 
the river, and found a native tribe seated 
near the present site of Richmond, un- 
der the command of the chief Powhatan, 
by whom he was kindly received. But 
during his absence, the colonists, while 
at work, had been assailed by the neigh- 
boring savages, who wounded seventeen 
men and killed a boy. The interference 
of the crews of the vessels alone saved 
them all from destruction. From that 
time watch was kept by day and night, 
and preparation made for defence by 
erecting a fort and otherwise. 

Newport prepared to depart at the 
end of six weeks ; but before he left the 
colony. Smith was tried by the council 
at his own request ; and although great 
exertions were made to procure his 
condemnation, he received an award of 
two hundred pounds as damages for in- 
jurious treatment; but this he threvv 
into the common stock. The vessels 
now sailed, leaving a feeble c(ilony of 
about one hundred men, about one half 
of whom were "gentlemen," unaccus- 
tomed to labor, and ill qualified to en- 
dure privations and hai'dships ; and so 
powerful were the effect of the climate 
and the circumstances around them, that 
at the end of a week hardly ten of the 
company were able to stand upon their 
feet. Fifty died between the months 
of May and September; yet the presi- 
dent felt so little sympathy with his com- 
panions, that he enjoyed every luxury 
within his reach, while they were living 



miserably on such food as they were 
able to procure, chiefly sturgeon and 
crabs taken from the water. Newport, 
however, being at length arrested, in an 
attempt to abandon the sufferers by sail- 
ing away in the pinnace, was deposed, 
and RatcUffe was appointed president 
in his place. 

He, however, proved so unpopular 
and so incompetent, that he was glad to 
place Smith in fact at the head of affairs ; 
and by the energy of the latter, the col- 
ony was saved from starvation. Find- 
ing all other means to obtain provisions 
unsuccessful, he managed to terrify the 
Indian tribe dwelling at Hampton (then 
called Keochtan), so much that they fur- 
nished them with food. Soon after this. 
Smith was made prisoner by the sav- 
ages, and after being sentenced to die, 
and led out for execution, was rescued 
by the celebrated princess Pocahontas ; 
with the history of whom, and this sin- 
gular act of humanity performed by her, 
we presume our readers are familiar. 

In 1609, a new charter was granted 
by the king to the company, entitled 
" The Treasurer and Company of Ad- 
venturers of the City of London, for 
the First Colony in Virginia ;" the pow- 
ers and territory being enlarged, and a 
new council being formed in England, 
while the old president and council were 
abolished. Lord Delaware, or De la 
War, was appointed governor, and five 
hundred emigrants were collected, who 
embarked in nine ships, under the com- 
mand of Captain Newport, who, with 
Sir Thomas Gates and Sir George Som- 
ers, was to exercise the government 
until the arrival of the governor. The 
vessel in which the three governors sailed 
was separated from the rest by a storm, 
and driven to Bermuda; and, when the 
others arrived at Jamestown, the emi- 
grants proved so wild and insubordinate, 
and so unsuccessful in their attempts to 
form a government, that Smith, finding 
the colony exposed to an attack from 
the Indians, resumed his authority, im- 
prisoned the most turbulent, and soon 
reduced things to a state of order. He 
then sent a band of settlei's into the 
country, who began a new town ; but, 
being alarmed at the hostile aspect of 



the natives, they soon sent to him for 
protection. 

Smith, a sliort time after this, was 
shockingly mangled by the explosion of 
some gunpowder, and was compelled to 
go to England for surgical aid, whence 
he never returned. The colony suffered 
severely from his loss. Being left un- 
der the government of Mr. Percy, a 
man of less energy than goodness of 
heart, the motley band of colonists, con- 
sisting chiefly of broken-down trades- 
men and profligate young men, soon fell 
into confusion and anarchy ; and the In- 
dians, emboldened by their weakness, 
threatened them so much that the settle- 
ment was abandoned, and the people 
were proceeding to sea, when, at the 
mouth of James river, they met Lord 
Delaware, and were encouraged to re- 
turn. By remonstrances, threats, and 
promises, he reduced them to a state of 
order, and formed a council, consisting 
of Sir Thomas Gates, his lieutenant- 
general ; Sir George Somers, his admi- 
ral ; the honorable George Percy, one 
of his captains; Sir Fernando Weinman, 
his master of ordnance ; and Christopher 
Newport, his vice-admiral. 

But the state of things was very alarm- 
ing ; though the ships had brought out 
clothing and biscuit, they had not sup- 
plies of meat; the five hundred hogs 
left by Smith were all gone, and the In- 
dians had driven away the deer from 
the forest on purpose to distress the for- 
eigners ; while the fish, though abun- 
dant, could not be taken for the want 
of good nets. The governor had found 
plenty of hogs at Bermuda, though there 
were no inhabitants, and sent there for 
a supply ; while he took other means to 
procure provisions, though with little 
success, as most of the Indians refused 
all assistance, and Powhatan was openly 
hostile. 

To terrify this chief, Delaware cut 
off the hand of one of his Indians, and 
sent him to threaten similar treatment 
to all who should attempt to injure the 
colonists ; and this awed the savages in- 
to peace. The first exports were soon 
after made from the colony to England ; 
and being only cedar and black-walnut 
wood and iron, instead of gold, the com- 



pany were hardly persuaded, by Dela- 
ware's representations of the fertility 
of the soil and the prospect of success 
in agriculture, to sustain the settlement 
they had begun. Successive fluctuations 
in the political condition of the colony 
continued to retard its improvement for 
several years. 

In 1613 the land was divided among 
the people, having before that been held 
in common, by which practice general 
idleness had been fostered. The fol- 
lowing year, Argal was sent against the 
French colony of L'Acadie, and he took 
Port Royal, and also seized New York, 
on his way home, in the name of Eng- 
land. Tobacco began to be extensively 
cultivated in 1615. 

Captain Argal was appointed gover- 
nor in 1616, after the return of Govei'- 
nor Yeardly to England ; but, in conse- 
quence of tyrannical conduct, he was 
superseded by Yeardly in 1619. In 
that year the first colonial assembly in 
America was convoked, and consisted 
of the governor, the council, and two 
burgesses, elected by each of the bor- 
oughs, which then numbered eleven. 
They assembled in one room at James- 
town, and the laws they adopted were 
sent to England for the approbation of 
the company, who soon after sanctioned 
the acts of the Virginia legislature, but 
reserved the power of appointing a coun- 
cil of state. The laws passed by the 
legislature were to be ratified by the 
court of proprietors, and the orders of 
that court were to be approved by the 
assembly, before they could be carried 
into effect. 

The first slaves were brought into the 
colony in 1620, by a Dutch trading-ves- 
sel from Africa, which sailed up James 
river, and sold part of her cargo to the 
planters. Finding the climate more fa- 
vorable to blacks, importations increased, 
and the traffic soon became extensive. 

During the civil wars in England un- 
der the reign of Charles I., many of his 
opposers, after falling into his hands as 
prisoners, were transported to Virginia 
and sold as slaves. This was the fact 
with many of the captives taken in the 
battles of Dunbar and Worcester, and 
the leaders of the insurrection of Pen- 



318 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



ruddoc. Besides, many poor persons 
were induced to emigrate from England, 
under promises to pay their passage by 
subsequent labor ; and these were sold 
to the highest bidders after their arrival, 
and set to work for the benefit of their 
purchasers. 

In 1620, ninety young women were 
sent from England to be sold for wives ; 
and in the following year sixty more. 
The first sales were made for one hun- 
di'ed and twenty pounds of tobacco, and 
the last for one hundred and fifty. 

- Measures were soon after taken for 
the establishment of an institution for 
education, which at length resulted in 
the foundation of William and INIary col- 
lege. A dispute arose, under Sir Geo. 
Yeardley's government, with the king 
about the exportation of tobacco ; and 
great and imminent dangers were threat- 
ened by an Indian plot to extirpate the 
colonists, which was so far successful 
that three hundred and forty-seven per- 
sons' lives were sacrificed, and the num- 
ber of settlements reduced fl'om eighty 
to six. A war ensued, in which the 
savages suffered severely. 

After a prolonged contest between 
King James and the colony, a new char- 
ter was exchanged for the old, while he 
prohibited the cultivation of tobacco in 
England, and arave the exclusive trade 
in it to Virginia and the Somers islands. 
Charles I., on the other hand, claimed 
the government to himself, and forbade 
the vending of tobacco to any but his 
own agents, appointing Yeardley gov- 
ernor, and twelve councillors to make 
laws and exercise other high powers, 
which led to new difficulties. The au- 
thority of Cromwell was disputed as 
long as possible, and the majority of 
tlie people, being episcopalians and loy- 
alists, ever remained attached to the 
royal party, and received from Charles 
II., while in exile. Sir William Berkeley 
as their governor. After the restoration, 
Berkeley introduced several aristocratic 
features into the government, establish- 
ing the church of England by law, pro- 
hibiting the preaching of dissenters, de- 
priving the pooi'er people of the right of 
suffrage, raising the salaries of officers, 
&c. The navigation-act was passed by 



parliament, by which new restrictions 
were laid on commerce ; and Bacon's 
rebellion soon after broke out, which 
continued seven months, until the death 
of its ringleader, who had already suc- 
ceeded in reducing Jamestown to ashes, 
and sustaining a rebellious government. 
Berkeley, with great humanity, soon re- 
duced the colony again to quiet ; but a 
variety of changes afterward followed, 
which may be passed by in a brief sketch 
of the history of this colony. 

Virginia continued attached to the roy- 
al party in England through the strug- 
gles of the following generations. The 
French war, in the middle of the last 
century, had disastrous effects on the 
new western settlements, which were 
the scenes of massacres and of several 
military expeditions, especially the ill- 
fated one under General Braddock. 

In that war, George Washington com- 
menced that career which he pursued 
through the revolution with such unri- 
valled splendor, and with such great and 
beneficial effects to his country and to 
mankind. 

Says a late writer: "I look upon 
Washington as the peculiar gift of God 
to the American people : I regard him 
as specially raised up as our political 
Joshua, to guide these people across 
the swellings of a war-vexed revolution 
to the fair inheritance of freedom which 
lay beyond. I behold in him the devel- 
opment of a character that has no equal 
in the annals of man ; and I feel, there- 
fore, that it is true, as has been stated 
by a distinguished nobleman of England 
(Lord Brougham), that, until time shall 
be no more, the progress of our race in 
wisdom and virtue will be tested by the 
veneration paid to the immortal name 
of Washington. 

" A review of the many dangers to 
which Washington was exposed from 
childhood, makes it clear that nothing 
but the watchful providence of God — 
keeping him for some great end — could 
have protected him amid the dangers of 
youth, the vicissitudes of manhood, the 
perils of the wilderness, and the for- 
tunes of a bloody war. 

" It was God who so ordered the 
anxious fear of his mother, as to prevent 




Portrait of Washington. 



the lad of fourteen from accepting a 
midshipman's warrant in the royal navy 
of England. He it was who marked 
out for his youth the occupation of a 
surveyor, by which his body was knit 
into strength — his mind inured to dan- 
ger; so that much of his future success 
hung upon the knowledge gathered, 
while, with the chain and compass, he 
ranged the hills and valleys of western 
Virginia. 

" It was God who protected him in 
all the perils of the French war, and 
particularly in that bloody battle of the 
Monongahela, when Braddock and one 
half of the army fell. Washington him- 
self felt and acknowledged this, and 
said in a letter to his brother: ' By the 



all-powerful dispensation of Providence, 
I have been protected beyond all human 
probability or expectation ; for I had four 
bullets through my coat, and two horses 
shot under me; yet I escaped unhurt, 
although death was levelling my com- 
panions on every side of me.' Not only 
was this protection known and acknowl- 
edged in the pulpit at the time, in that 
almost prophetic sentence of Davies 
where, speaking of that heroic youth, 
he adds : ' whom I can not but hope that 
Providence has hitherto preserved in so 
signal a manner for some important ser- 
vice to his country' — but even the In- 
dians were persuaded that he was under 
the special guardianship of the Great 
Spirit ; because, though they had singled 



320 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



him out in that battle for the aim of 
their sharpshooters, not a ball touched 
him, and they felt that he was the par- 
ticular favorite of Heaven, who could 
never die in battle. 

" Indeed, in all his exposures by land 
and sea — in open war and covered am- 
bush — in the masked treachery of pre- 
tended friends, and the hireling assaults 
of pensioned murderers, it was God 
who * covered his head in the day of 
battle' — who preserved him from dan- 
ger — and who checked the hands and 
bridled the power of those who had 
vowed his destruction. 

" The French war, which called out 
so large a share of his youthful prowess, 
and in which his military abilities shone 
so pre-eminent, he saw honorably closed 
by the defeat of his enemies and the 
possession of their lands. The revolu- 
tion, which began in the oppressions of 
the British parliament, and the war 
which he conducted from its beginning 
to its end, he beheld terminated in 
peace ; his enemies were driven from 
our shores ; and the i"ed cross of old 
England gave place to Freedom's ban- 
ner, with its stars for glory and its 
stripes for foes. 

" Others had often begun to battle for 
the rights of their country, but ended 
by fighting for themselves. Others had 
frequently unsheathed their swords for 
freedom, but soon had even cloven down 
freedom in their march to dominion. 
Others had attempted to guide a nation 
from monarchy to republicanism ; but, 
having once grasped the reins of pow- 
er, they soon became the charioteers of 
their own glory, and drove with scythe- 
armed wheels through the land they 
covenanted to redeem. 

" But Washington accepted military 
authority with reluctance — used it with 
prudence — freed a nation from its op- 
pression — drove from it its foes — estab- 
lished for it perfect freedom; and then, 
when an admiring army and his native 
state would have taken him and made 
him their king — when applause rang 
loudest, and fame shone brightest, and 
Power threw herself a willing captive 
in his arms — when he was confessedly 
first and supreme, did he resign his com- 



mission, ungird his sword, and return a 
private citizen to his farms on the Po- 
tomac. 

" Robertson, speaking of the abdica- 
tion of Diocletian and of .Charles V., 
remarks : ' To descend voluntarily from 
the supreme to a subordinate station, 
and to relinquish the possession of pow- 
er in order to attain the enjoyment of 
happiness, seems to be an effort too 
great for the human mind.' But it was 
not too great an act for Washington — 
he did it — but not, like the abdicating 
emperors, with an impaired constitution, 
and the infirmities of age crumbling his 
heart within him. He did it in the 
prime and vigor of life and health, re- 
solving, in his own manly language, 'to 
pass the remainder of his days in hon- 
orable repose, and place his glory be- 
yond the reach of fortune.' " 

The Birthplace of Washington. — The 
house which formerly occupied this spot, 
and in which the hero of America was 
born and spent his earliest years, was 
destroyed before the revolution. The 
place is in Westmoreland, in the county 
of Westmoreland, half a mile from the 
mouth of Pope's creek. This spot, 
though marked only by a simple monu- 
ment, must ever possess an unspeakable 
degree of interest to every person who 
loves his country and the principles of 
that most exalted character which was 
here formed and matured, under the 
instructions of a pure and noble-minded 
mother. How strongly must every vis- 
iter to that spot feel that 

" His name is his own best monument." 

The plain stone, placed here by his 
relative, G. W. P. Custis, bears the ex- 
pressive inscription : — 

"Here, on the 11th of February (O. 8.), 1732, 
George Washington was born." 

The scenery around the place is very 
fine. The Maryland shore is in sight 
for a considerable distance, with the 
river Potomac, which flows along under 
the eye for many miles, on its way tow- 
ard the capital. The house was of the 
old-fashioned kind, of wood, and two- 
two stories high, with four rooms on the 
first floor. 

The following memorandum of the 
birth of Washington is copied from the 




21 



322 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



family record in the bible which belonged 
to his mother, and believed to have been 
written by her hand : — 

" George Washington, son to Augus- 
tine and Mary his wife, was born y* 11th 
day of February, 1732, about 10 in y" 
morning, and was baptized y* 3d of 
April following. Mr. Beverly Whiting 
and Captain Christopher Brooks, god- 
fathers, and Mrs. Wildred Gregory, god- 
mother." 

Soon after the passage of the stamp- 
act, Patrick Henry introduced into the 
Virginia assembly the following resolu- 
tion : " That the general assembly of 
this colony, together with his majesty 
or substitute, have, in their representa- 
tive capacity, the only exclusive right 
and power to lay taxes and impositions 
upon the inhabitants of this colony; and 
that every attempt to vest such power in 
any person or persons whatsoever, other 
than the general assembly as aforesaid, 
is illegal, unconstitutional, and unjust, 
and has a manifest tendency to destroy 
British as well as American freedom." 

The resolution was adopted, on which 
the governor dissolved the chamber. 
When election day arrived, however, the 
members who had voted for it were re- 
elected by the people, and its opposers 
were left out. 

After the repeal of the stamp-act, the 
legislature of Virginia sent a vote of 
thanks to the king and parliament. 

Governor Fauquier died in 1767, and 
the following year Lord Botetourt ar- 
rived from England as his successor. He 
soon dissolved the assembly, because 
they had adopted a resolution condemn- 
ing the taxes on paper, &c. ; but the 
members combined in a non-importation 
association. Lord Botetourt had much 
influence, but could not long suppress 
the dissatisfaction excited among the 
people at the course of the British minis- 
try. He died in 1771, and the statue 
now standing in Williamsburg was then 
erected to his memory. 

Lord Dunmore, the next governor, 
stooped to the fomenting of paltry dis- 
sensions, to divert the attention of the 
people from the designs of the king ; 
but the news of the destruction of the 
tea at Boston called out a spirited reso- 



lution from the Virginia assembly, for 
which they were again dissolved ; and 
on the following day the members as- 
sembled and agreed on an address to 
the people, pronouncing an attack on 
one of the colonies an attack upon all 
British America, and appointed depu- 
ties to attend a general congress. 

Early in the days of the revolution, 
Thomas Jefferson became a leading man 
in Virginia, and he was for a long time 
afterward one of the principal men in 
the country. He was born at Shadwell, 
in the county of Albemarle, April 2, 
1743, and receive from his father an 
ample fortune. He graduated with dis- 
tinction at William and Mary college, 
and studied law under George Wythe. 
Soon after he became of age, he was a 
representative in the colonial assembly 
and had a seal with this motto, expres- 
sive of his liberal sentiments: "Resist- 
ance to tyrants is obedience to God." 
In 1772 he married Miss Wayles, who 
died ten years afterward, leaving two 
daughters. 

In 1772 he organized the first system 
of colonial i-esistance, by appointing 
committees of correspondence; in 1776 
he took his seat in congress, where he 
drew up the Declaration of Independ- 
ence. In 1779-'80 he was governor 
of Virginia, during the days of the in- 
vasion. In 1783 he returned to congress, 
and drew up the address of that body 
to Washington on his takinsr leave of 
public life. In 1784 he went to France 
as minister, and was afterward secretary 
of state under Washington. In 1798 
he retired to Monticello, and from 1801 
till 1809 was president of the United 
States, having formed a democratic par- 
ty, in opposition to the Washington or 
federal party, may of the principles and 
measures of which he opposed. He 
finally retired to Monticello in 1809, 
where he died July 4, 1826, at the age 
of eighty-three years. His grave is in 
a grove, near the road, at the foot of 
Monticello. 

Monticello. — This elegant mansion, 
the seat of Jefferson, is situated on the 
top of a steep conical eminence, rising 
from an elliptical plain, three miles 
southeast from Charlottesville. Toward 



324 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



the west, and partly north and south, it 
commands a view of Blue ridge, which 
stretches away one hundred and fifty 
miles ; while on the east is seen a bound- 
less plain. At different points rise sev- 
eral mountains of various forms and 
sizes, among which one of the most con- 
spicuous and interesting is Willis' moun- 
tain in the south. 

The approach to the house affords 
glimpses of this fine scene ; and the 
spacious hall at the entrance was orna- 
mented with objects of taste, arranged 
in an appropriate manner to gratify the 
eye. Mr. Wii't, in his description of 
the place, mentions that Jefferson had 
placed various specimens of sculpture 
in that hall, in such order as to mark 
the progress of the art from the rudest 
to the most perfect state : at the end be- 
ing seen his own statue by Carracci. 
On other sides were displayed Indian 
remains, petrified bones, the horns of 
deer, &c. The grand saloon, in which 
the visiter is next ushered, is appropri- 
ated as a picture-gallery, and contains a 
great number of valuable productions 
of the pencil and the graver, comprising 
many historical events and distinguished 
men of all ages. The windows com- 
mand charming views of the extensive 
scene below. 

In September, 1774, the meeting of 
delegates was held in Philadelphia. 
The disaffections continued between the 
governor and the people, but they joined 
in an expedition against the Indians in 
western Virginia, who had assumed a 
hostile attitude, as was suspected, by 
the intrigues of the governor. On the 
20th of April, 1775, he was so bold as 
secretly to remove the gunpowder from 
the colonial magazine, at Williamsburg, 
to Yorktown, where it was stowed in j 
a British vessel. The people took up I 
arms ; but the governor threatened, in i 
case of any resistance, to proclaim lib- ; 
erty to the slaves, and set the town on j 
fire. Six hundred men were soon as- : 
sembled at Fredericksburg to protect 
it, and to oppose any rash measure, | 
while thousands prepared, throughout | 
the colony, to render their aid if neces- 
sary. At this crisis, the two leading 
patriots of the time, Peyton Randolph ! 



and Edmund Pendleton, sent to the for- 
mer a request that they would do noth- 
ing until congress should decide on 
some general plan of defence. 

The assembly then held a council, 
consisting of more than one hundred 
members, who adopted, by a majoi'ity 
of only one, a resolution to disperse for 
the present, and draughted an address, in 
which they " firmly resolved to resist all 
attempts against their rights and privi- 
leges, from whatever quarter they might 
be assailed;" and firmly pledged them- 
selves " to reassemble, and, by force of 
arms, to defend the laws, the liberties, 
and the rights, of this or any sister col- 
ony, from unjust and wicked invasion. 
God save the liberties of America!" 

Patrick Henry, however, at the head 
of the volunteers of Hanover, marched 
from Doncaster to recover the powder, 
and, being joined by numbers from the 
counties of King William and New 
Kent, obtained ample compensation from 
Corbin, the king's receiver-general, and 
then returning dismissed the troops. 
The governor issued a proclamation 
against him two days after ; but he left 
the state, about the same time, to attend 
the meeting of the continental congress, 
while a band of insurgents seized the 
arms in the magazine. Committees of 
safety were soon formed in the counties 
of Virginia, and "minute-men" were 
raised, who, as John Randolph, of Ro- 
anoke, afterward remarked, with char- 
acteristic humor, were raised in a min- 
ute, marched in a minute, and defeated 
in a minute. 

Among the acts of the governor which 
fomented discord, was his sending for 
aid to the commander of the Fowey 
ship-of-war, off Yorktown, while Pat- 
rick Henry was on his march ; in con- 
sequence of which forty marines and 
sailors were stationed at Williamsburg 
about ten days, while the ship threat- 
ened to fire upon Yorktown in case they 
should be molested. 

Governor Dunmore convened the as- 
sembly on the 1st of June, and made an 
address, in consequence of which the 
house of burgesses had a correspondence 
with hipn, defending the rights of the 
colonies. He took rafuge on board the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



3-25 



Fowey, on the 8th, with his family, un- 
der pretext that they were not safe on 
shore ; and refused to sign any bills, un- 
less the assembly would meet him under 
cover of the guns. He was then, by a 
resolution, declared to have abdicated 
his office, and the president of the coun- 
cil proceeded to act in his place. Near 
the end of the month the vessel sailed 
down the river : and thus closed the 
royal government of Virginia. 

Delegates soon after met in Rich- 
mond, to form a provisional government ; 
and a description of this beautiful town, 
now large and important, may be here 
introduced, as it began to rise into con- 
sequence at about this period of its his- 
tory. 

Richmond. — This is the capital and 
principal town of the state, the capital 
of Henrico county, and a port of entry, 
standing at the foot of the lower falls 
on James river, 117 miles from Wash- 
ington, 342 from New York, 557 froni 
Boston, 520 from Cincinnati, 423 from 
Charleston, 62 from Fredericksburg, 
106 from Norfolk, 146 from Winches- 
ter, and 23 from Petersburg. 

The spot on which this large and fine 
city stands was first visited by white men 
in 1609, when " Master West" pene- 
trated to the falls in search of provisions 
lor the young colony at Jamestown, but 
found nothing edible except acorns. He 
however began a settlement near the 
place the same year, with one hundred 
and twenty men. Smith attempted a 
settlement at " Nonsuch," but failed. 
Fort Charles was erected at the Falls 
in 1644-'5; and in 1646 the assembly 
offered extraordinary inducements to 
encourage a settlement on the south side 
of the river, opposite the fort. 

Richmond was founded in 1742, and 
made the state capital in 1780, since 
which it has steadily increased. The 
population in 1800 was 5,737 ; in 1810, 
9,785; in 1820, 12,067; in 1830, 16,060 ; 
it. 1840, 20,153; in 1850, 27,483. The 
city is situated at the head of tidewater, 
and vessels drawing ten feet of water 
can come up to within one mile of the 
centre of the city, and those drawing 
fifteen feet to within three miles. A 
canal with locks extends around the 



falls (opened in 1794), above which boats 
navigate the river two hundred and 
twenty miles. A canal affords naviga- 
tion also to Lynchburg, one hundred 
and sixteen miles. 

The situation is healthy and pleasant; 
and the city has a pleasing appearance 
from several points of view, especially 
that from which it is represented in the 
cut. It is generally well built, and the 
streets cross at right angles. Richmond 
hill and Shockoe hill, rising from tlie 
opposite side of Shockoe creek, vary 
the surface of the ground, the town be- 
ing situated between them, and up both 
acclivities. The latter eminence affords 
fine situations for dwellings, and is the 
favorite quarter, containing many hand- 
some houses ; while on its summit stands 
the state capitol, surrounded by a spa- 
cious square of eight acres, enclosed 
with an iron fence. 

The city-hall, opposite, is a fine edi- 
fice in Grecian style ; and among the 
other public buildings are three banks, 
two insurance offices, the armory, the- 
atre, female asylum, penitentiary, thir- 
teen academies and higher schools, thr 
free Lancasterian school, and twenty- 
three churches. 

The water-works, by which the city 
is supplied, raise the water, by hydrau- 
lic power, into three reservoirs, each con- 
taining a million of gallons, and from 
these lead off to all parts of the city. 

The Medical College is a department 
of Hampden Sidney college, and has a 
building in the Egyptian style. It has 
a dean and five members of the faculty. 

Richmofid College, a baptist institu- 
tion, is one mile west of the city, and 
contains about one hundred students. 

St. Vincent's College, a Roman catho- 
lic institution, is situated one mile east 
of the city, and has about fifty students. 

Richmond presents many varying as- 
pects, from different points of the undu- 
lating surface above the banks of the 
creek. The falls, extending more than 
six miles, give liveliness to the water- 
scene ; while the islands which lie upon 
the surface and the two bridges, which 
cross it, lo connect the town with Man- 
chester on the opposite shore, offer a 
constant and pleasing variety. The city 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



327 



plot now covers about three and a half 
square miles, being seven and a half 
miles long ; but only a small portion of 
this is thickly covered with buildings. 
A spot near the centre of the business 
part of the city is occupied by the basin 
of the canal. 

The State Penitentiary, in the west- 
ern suburbs, is in the form of a hollow 
square, three hundred feet by one hun- 
dred and ten, with several acres of 
ground attached. 

The Armory contains a considerable 
supply of arms, and is three hundred 
and eighty feet by three hundred and 
twenty. 

Manufactures are carried on to a con- 
siderable extent, by water-power ob- 
tained at the falls. Within two or three 
years, cotlon mills have been erected and 
are in profitable employment. Rich- 
mond has many facilities for this species 
of indusiry, which must ultimately be- 
come advantageous to the whole neigh- 
borhood. The total amount of capital 
invested in manufactures in Richmond 
is about two millions of dollars. Rich- 
mond is a great commercial depot, hav- 
ing an extensive back country abounding 
in tobacco, wheat, hemp, and coal, which 
is reached by the James river canal and 
branches. The flouring mills of Rich- 
mond have a world-wide celebrity. 

The Capitol. — This fine and chaste 
edifice occupies a lofty and commanding 
position on the summit of Shockoe hill, 
in the midst of the spacious public square 
before described. The front is orna- 
mented with an Ionic portico, with lofty 
columns ; and the effect of the building, 
from its elegant front, is very fine, when 
seen from the neighboring points of 
view. The building contains the halls 
of the senate and house of delegates, 
with numerous rooms for officers, com- 
mittees, &c. ; and here assemble the 
legislators of this great and influential 
state, to deliberate on the interests of 
its various sections. 

From different parts of the capitol, as 
well as from the neighboring grounds, 
are presented many fine views over the 
surrounding country, and the city and 
river below ; and the scene is the most 
imposing one of the kind to be found 



within the limits of the state. James 
river is seen, after flowing down the 
long falls and rapids which interrupt its 
course above the city, spreading wide 
its smooth surface, to float the boats, 
vessels, and steamboats, which ever en- 
liven its course between this point and its 
mouth ; while the two beautiful bridges 
which cross the stream and connect the 
opposite shores, afford passages from 
side to side. 

The important figure which the capi- 
tol makes in the preceding general view 
of Richmond, gives a just idea of its 
importance, as a principal feature in the 
aspect of the city from many different 
points of view. Crowning the summit 
of the principal eminence, and rising 
far above the crowded city, it forms an 
appropriate and elegant trait to a scene 
otherwise possessing many beauties. 

The Statue of Washington. — This in- 
teresting piece of sculpture, the work 
of a distinguished French artist of the 
last century, stands in the area of the 
capitol. It was made by Houdon, in 
Paris, a few years after the Revolution, 
at the order of the Virginia assembly, 
and under the direction of Jefferson. 
Washington is represented in the mili- 
tary costume of the country at the time, 
covered with a cloak, while one hand 
holds a cane, and the other the fasces ; 
and on the pedestal is the following in- 
scription, written by Mr. Madison : — 

"George Wasliinpton. The General Assembly 
of the Commonweallh of Virginia have caused this 
statue to be erected, as a monument of affection and 
gratitude, to George Washington, who, uniting to 
the endowments of the hero the virtues of the patriot, 
and exerting both in establishing the liberties of his 
country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow- 
citizens, and given the world an immortal example 
of true glory. Done in the year of Christ one thou- 
sand seven hundred and eiglity-eight, in tjie year of 
the Commonwealth the twelfth." 

The Bust of LaFayette. — This hand- 
some specimen of sculpture is appro- 
priately placed near the statue of Wash • 
ington. 

The Monumental Church. — This edi- 
fice was erected in commemoration of 
the calamitous destruction, in 1811, of 
a theatre which stood on the same spot. 
About six hundred persons were assem- 
bled in the theatre on the fatal evening, 
when, at the conclusion of the play, the 
scenery accidentally caught fire, and a 




Monamental Church — Richmond. 



scene of dreadful confusion ensued. The 
doors were so narrow as to prevent the 
ready egress of the multitude — indeed 
only one door opened into that part of 
the house where most of them were as- 
sembled, and that was not large enough 
to permit the escape of more than a 
few before the flames had reached those 
within. Many were scorched by the 
burning of their clothes ; great numbers 
jumped from the windows, some with 
the flames all around them ; and many 
died, chiefly within the building, which 
was soon enveloped in flames. The 
scene caused a dreadful shock through- 
out the country ; but the gloom in the 
city itself was deep indeed. Hundreds 
of families lost their nearest members or 
friends, and the sad effects of the mourn- 
ful calamity were general and lasting. 



An episcopal society afterward erect- 
ed the Monumental Caurch on the spot, 
to perpetuate the memory of the event: 
and the bones found among the ruins 
were collected and placed in an urn at 
the entrance. 

The above cut affords a view of this 
edifice, the melancholy associations con- 
nected with which must ever continue 
to be of a nature peculiarly solemn and 
impressive. 

We now return to the progress of 
events in the history of the state. On 
the 17th of July, 1775, delegates from 
the counties met at Richmond (as before 
remarked) to form a provisional govern- 
ment and a plan of defence, and th« fol- 
lowing persons were put on the commit- 
tee of safety : Ed. Pendleton, George 
Mason, Jno. Page, Richard Bland, Thos. 



330 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



Ludwell Lee, Paul Carrington, Dudley 
DicrCTBs, Jas. Mercer, Carter Braxton, 
Wm. Cabell, and Jno. Tabb. Prepara- 
tions were made for raising troops, and 
the county committees were requested 
to provide colors bearing the motto : 
" Virginia for Constitutional Liberty." 
But the governor proceeded to several 
acts of hostility. He landed a party at 
Norfolk, under cover of the men-of-war, 
and carried off the press and types of 
a patriotic newspaper ; and soon after 
he marched to Kempsville to destroy a 
collection of firearms, and made pris- 
oner the commander of the minute-men. 
Captain Matthews. Hampton was also 
attacked by British vessels under Cap- 
tain Squires ; but they were driven off 
without loss on the part of the patriots. 
A number of armed men now arrived 
at Williamsburg fi'om the upper coun- 
try ; and Lord Dunsmore, having heard 
that the second Virginia regiment and 
the Culpepper battalion had been or- 
dered to Norfolk, sent the Kingfisher 
and three large tenders up James river 
to Burwell's ferry, to prevent their cros- 
sing. A laige boat was twice beaten 
off' by the Virginia i-iflemen, as was also 
another boat, which afterward attempted 
to land at Jamestown. In the same 
month a colonel of Princess Ann militia 
was made prisoner by Lord Dunsmore, 
with some of his men, on their march. 
On the 7th of November he proclaimed 
martial law, and, with a considerable 
force at his comi land, raised his stan- 
dard in Norfolk and Princt33S Ann. 

Having ordered the militia captains 
to raise troops in opposition to the co- 
lonial army, he proposed to destroy the 
colonial stores of provisions at Suffolk ; 
but two hundred and fifteen light troops 
were sent for their defence by Colonel 
Woodford. He then undertook to in- 
cite the western Indians to war in co- 
operation with him, and matured a plan 
with a Pennsylvanian, named O'Con- 
nelly, who was made a lieutenant-colonel 
by General Gage at Boston. A regi- 
ment of volunteers was to be raised at 
Fort Pitt, who, accompanied by several 
companies of royal Irish, were to march 
across Virginia to Alexandria, and take 
possession of the 'town, in co-operation 



with Lord Dunsmore, in the ships-of- 
war. The plot, however, was discov- 
ered and defeated after a time ; for O'- 
Connelly, Cameron, and Dr. Jno. Smith, 
were arrested near Hagerstown (Mary- 
land), on suspicion, and were found in 
possession of papers and money, which 
fully proved their guilt. 

Colonel Woodford, on his march to 
Norfolk, found the enemy in a stockade 
fort at the Great bridge — the only way 
by which he could proceed ; and, hav- 
ing thrown up a breastwork, was soon 
attacked, but repulsed the British with 
great loss to them, and drove them to 
their vessels. Lord Dunsmore cannon- 
aded Norfolk on the night of January 
1st, 1776, and having destroyed parts 
of it, Lieutenant-Colonel Howe was or- 
dered by the committee of safety to burn 
the remainder. That city had contained 
six thousand inhabitants. 

Nine regiments, in all, were now 
raised, of which six were placed on the 
continental establishment, of the first of 
which Patrick Henry was appointed 
colonel. He, however, soon resigned 
his commission, and was chosen a mem- 
ber of the new convention at Hanover, 
who appointed delegates to congress, 
instructing thein "to propose to that 
respectable body to declare the United 
Colonies free and independent states, 
absolved from all allegiance to, or de- 
pendence on, the crown or parliament." 
A constitution was adopted on the 25th 
of June, and was the first formed with- 
out admitting any prospect of reconcilia- 
tion with the mother-country, Patrick 
Henry was chosen governor ; and from 
that time through the war, Virginia con- 
tinued to sustain the cause of indepen- 
dence, harmoniously and efficiently co- 
operating with her sister-colonies, untij 
the independence of the country was 
settled by the great and final victory on 
her own soil, at Yorktown. 

The first constitution of the state was 
adopted on the 5th of July, 1776, and 
revised in 1830. The right of suff'rage 
is restricted to heads of families paying 
taxes or owners of certain amounts and 
kinds of property. There are one hun- 
dred and thirty-four delegates in the 
house, chosen annually, and thirty-two 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



331 



senators, elected for four yeai's. The 
governor is chosen for four years by the 
legislature, and ineligible the next three 
years. 

As early as 1681, there was a dispute 
between William Penn and Lord Bal- 
timore, respecting the construction of 
their respective grants, the debatable 
land being one degree, or sixty-nine 
English miles, on the south line of Penn- 
sylvania, and extending west as far as 
the state itself. The matter was in liti- 
gation over sixty years, when Charles 
Mason and Jeremiah Dixon were ap- 
pointed to run the line in dispute. This 
is the boundary line separating Virginia 
and Maryland from Pennsylvania, and 
known as "Mason and Dixon's line." 

Education. — There is a literary fund 
in this state, to promote learning in gen- 
eral, established from escheats of all 
lands, militia and other fines, all for- 
feited lands, overplus of debt due from 
the United States, and some other con- 
tingent funds. A great part of this fund 
has been borrowed to establish the uni- 
versity of the state. About fifty thou- 
sand dollars are annually appropriated 
to the several counties, according to 
their number of white children. This 
fund is collected by the state auditor, 
and is under the direction of a corpora- 
tion composed of the governor, attorney- 
general, treasurer, and the president of 
the court of appeals, who appoint an 
agent in each county to collect the funds. 
School commissioners are appointed by 
the county courts, who have power to 
determine what number of poor chil- 
dren shall be educated, and to draw 
orders on the treasurer for the amount 
of the tuition. 

Printing. — The first newspaper in 
Virginia was printed at Williamsburg, 
August 6, 1736, by W. Parkes, at fifteen 
shillings per annum. The same man 
had printed Stith's History of Virginia 
in 1729, and the laws of the colony. 
His paper was under the influence of 
the government, and ceased at his death, 
in 1761, until revived by William Hun- 
ter in 1751. It was at first only twelve 
inches by six in size. In 1761 it was 
enlarged by John Royle, and continued 
to appear until some time in the revo- 



tionary war. In 1766 William Rind 
was invited to come from Maryland and 
establish the second newspaper, which 
was the " Virginia Gazette." It was 
" open to all parties." His widow, Clem- 
entina Rind, continued it for some time 
from his death, in 1773, and was suc- 
ceeded by John Pinckney. Another 
" Virginia Gazette" was commenced at 
Williamsburg in 1775. 

The first printing-press in Virginia 
was erected in 1681, but was soon put 
down — Sir William Berkeley being op- 
posed, like many other influential men 
in the colony, to the diffusion of knowl- 
edge. In 1671 he "thanked God there 
are no free schools nor pi'inting (in Vir- 
ginia), and hoped we shall not have, 
these hundreds of years to come." 

Norfolk. — This is the most impor- 
tant seaport in the state. It occupies a 
commanding situation at the mouth of 
Elizabeth river, at the southern extrem- 
ity of Chesapeake bay, only eight miles 
from Hampton Roads, by which it com- 
municates with the Atlantic ocean ; one 
hundred and six miles from Richmond ; 
and two hundred and twenty-nine from 
Washington city. The ground on which 
it stands is low, and the same featui'e 
prevails for miles around the city. The 
streets are crooked, and the appearance 
of the town rather uninviting. The 
principal public buildings are the mar- 
ket, customhouse, theatre, four banks, 
eight churches, an academy, a Lancas- 
terian school, orphan asylum, &c. The 
population is about fifteen thousand, and 
the commerce of the place considerable. 

Large steamboats depart daily for 
Richmond, and others for Washington 
and Baltimore. A railroad leads south 
to North Carolina, on which cars run 
daily to Wilmington. 

Portsmouth, on the opposite side of 
Elizabeth river, appears like a part of 
Norfolk. It is the site of the 

U. S. Navyyard, which occupies a 
portion of the town called Gosport. A 
large and expensive dry-dock has been 
constructed there, and the storehouses, 
workshops, &c., occupy a large extent 
of ground. There is also the Virginia 
Literary and Scientific academy, found- 
ed in 1840, which has about forty pupils. 



332 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



The U. S. Naval Hospital stands at 
a short distance from the town. 

The other public buildings in Ports- 
mouth are the courthouse, a bank, and 
six churches; and the population is 
about nine thousand. 

The Dismal Swamp Canal leads from 
this place through that extensive and 
melancholy morass into North Cai'olina, 
and is an important channel of trans- 
portation. It is more particularly no- 
ticed under the head of North Carolina. 

Hampton, situated near the mouth 
of James river, on the eastern bank, is 
a small town, in a poor region of coun- 
try, but its position is important, just 
behind Forts Monroe and Calhoun ; the 
former is the military post on the south- 
ern coast, which commands Hampton 
Roads, the channel leading from the 
ocean into the Chesapeake. The town 
contains four churches, a courthouse, 
and about fiifteen hundred inhabitants. 

Old Point Comfort, a low sandy cape, 
lies opposite the narrow part of the 
channel, which is there so narrow that 
the guns of the fortress completely com- 
mand it. Ths adjacent part of the bay, 
called the Rip-raps, is so shallow that 
the surface of the water is kept in a 
state of agitation by the meeting of the 
currents and tide. 

Fortress Monroe is one of the largest 
fortifications in the United States. It 
mounts three hundred and thirty-five 
guns, of which one hundred and thirty 
are in casemates, or subterranean cham- 
bers arched with stone and bombproof. 
Opposite stands Fort Calhoun, one thou- 
sand nine hundred yards distant, which, 
although of smaller size, will mount two 
hundred and sixty-five cannon, the great- 
er part of them in casemates. 

Montpcl/er, the seat of the late presi- 
dent Madison, is about four miles from 
Orange courthouse. On approaching it 
from the north, you turn to the left on 
leaving the main road, and after pro- 
ceeding through a wood about a mile, 
the mansion of the late ex-president may 
be seen a mile distant, situated on a 
slight eminence. It is a large brick 
building, composed of a main body and 
two wings. In front of the body is a 
portico of wood, painted white, which 



is supported by four lofty Doric pillars. 
The interior of the house is furnished 
with plain but rich furniture, and orna- 
mented with busts and pictures; in the 
right wing is a library of rare and val- 
uable books, and a cabinet. In the rear 
of the mansion is an extensive lawn ; 
after crossing this you come to the gar- 
den, which consists of several acres of 
ground, laid out with elegance and taste, 
and contains a great number of native 
plants and exotics, besides an abundance 
of grapes. Here, on the 28th of June, 
1836, Mr. Madison died, at the advanced 
age of eighty-seven. 

Mr. Madison was by birth a Virgin- 
ian, and wholly educated in this country. 
He was intended for a statesman from 
his youth, and made himself master of 
constitutional law, when it was hardly 
known as a science either in England 
or in this country. He was born on 
the 16th of March, 1751, and was, of 
course, in all the ardor and freshness of 
youth on the breaking out of the Revo- 
lution. In 1775 he was a member of 
the Virginia legislature, and was soon 
appointed one of the council of the state. 
During the whole eventful struggle, he 
had the confidence of the state, and, as 
as a member of her legislature, was list- 
ened to with profound attention when 
he brought forward sundry resolutions 
for the formation of a general govern- 
ment for the United States, based upon 
the inefficiency of the old confederation. 
From these i-esolutions grew a conven- 
tion of delegates from the several states, 
who, in conclave, prepared a form of a 
constitution to be submitted to the sev- 
eral states for their discussion, appro- 
bation, and adoption. Mr. Madison was 
a member of this convention, as a dele- 
gate from Virginia, and took an active 
part in the deliberations of that enlight- 
ened body, of which Washington, his 
colleague, was president. On the adop- 
tion of this constitution, Mr. Madison 
was elected a member of the first con- 
gress, and took an active part in setting 
the machinery in motion. At this pe- 
riod, public opinion was greatly agitated 
by the crude and false opinions scat- 
tered throughout the country, through 
the medium of the opposition presses ; 



334 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



this was grievous to the friends of the 
constitution, and Jay, Hamilton, and 
Madison, formed an alliance to enlighten 
the people upon the great doctrines of 
the constitution. The essays from the 
pens of these worthies were collected in 
a volume, called the "Federalist," which 
now stands a monument of the wisdom 
and patriotism of that age. In the de- 
bates of the first congress, Mr. Madison 
took a large share. It was an assem- 
blage of patriots, among whom there 
often arose a difference of opinion in 
regard to political policy, but all were 
lovers of their country, and laboring for 
her best interests. Here Mr. Madison 
acted with the Cabots and the Ameses 
of the east in perfect harmony. It was 
reserved for an after-age to feel the with- 
ering effects of party feuds. These were 
hardly discovered as long as the Father 
of his country filled the presidential 
chair. In the administration of his suc- 
cessor, a separation into parties took 
place, and Mr. Madison ranked himself 
on the side of Mr. Jefferson and his 
party, and was secretary of state during 
the presidency of Mr. .Tefferson. 

In March, 1*809, Mr. Madison became 
president of the United States. In 1812, 
war was declared. In 1817, when the 
reign of peace was established, Mr. 
Madison retired to his farm to enjoy the 
serenity of rural life ; but here he was 
not idle. On the death of Mr. Jeffer- 
son he was made chancellor of the uni- 
versity of Virginia, and took a deep 
interest in the prosperity of the institu- 
tion. When Virginia called a conven- 
tion to alter her constitution, Mr. Madi- 
son, with Chief-Justice Marshall and 
Mr. Monroe, was found among the most 
prominent members. 

James Madison was not an orator, in 
the common acceptation of the word ; 
there were no deep tones in his voice — 
no flashes of a fierce and commanding 
eye — no elegant gestures to attract the 
beholder : all was calm, dignified, and 
convincing. He never talked for the 
love of display, but simply to commu- 
nicate his thoughts. He spoke often in 
debate, when earnest in his cause, but 
was always heard with profound atten- 
tion.' His voice was deficient in volume, 



but it was 8o well modulated that its 
compass was more extensive than that 
of many speakers of stronger lungs. 

Charlottesville. — This town, the 
seat of the university of Virginia, enjoys 
a beautiful situation in the valley of Ri- 
vanna river, on the right of which it 
stands, at the distance of eighty-three 
miles from Richmond. The principal 
buildings of the town are four churches, 
an academy, and a female seminary ; and 
the population amounts to about two 
thousand. 

Stagecoaches depart daily for Rich- 
mond, for Washington, and for the White 
Sulphur springs ; and three times a week 
for Fredericksburg and Lynchburg. 

Lynchburg stands on the right bank 
of James river, one hundred and sixteen 
miles from Richmond. The spot which 
it occupies is rough, the ground being 
an acclivity, suri'ounded by a variety 
of surface with striking scenery. The 
town contains one or two banks, three 
savings-banks, fifteen classical schools, a 
library, eight churches, several large 
flourmills, and about thirty tobacco man- 
ufactoi-ies, with about eight thousand 
inhabitants. It is a place of great trade, 
as well as of considerable manufactures. 
The town is supplied with water raised 
from James river by hydraulic power, 
and is distributed from a reservoir con- 
taining 400,000 gallons, and standing at 
an elevation of two hundred and fifty- 
three feet above the river; thence it 
passes through the city in iron pipes. 

James River Canal. — This impoi'tant 
work of internal navigation, at Lynch- 
burg, extends to Richmond, one hun- 
dred and forty-seven miles. 

Farmvllle, seventy-fiv-^e miles from 
Richmond, is situated on the right bank 
of the Appomattox, and contains three 
churches, a bank, and ten tobacco man- 
ufactories. The population is about one 
thousand four hundred. 

Fredericksburg, fifty-six miles from 
Washington, stands on the right bank 
of the Rappahannock river, and has a 
pleasant appearance, being regulaily 
laid out, and surrounded by elevated 
grounds. The river makes a consider- 
able fall at this place, by which tlie 
town is supplied with valuable water- 



power ; and as the stream is navigable 
almost to the foot of the fall, in vessels 
of one hundred and forty tons, the trade 
of the place is active and important. 
The principal public buildings are the 
courthouse, two banks, the orphan asy- 
lum, five churches, and six academies. 
The population is about six thousand. 

The railroad, passing through the 
town, affords daily communication in 
cars with Washington, Richmond, Wil- 
mington, &c. 

The Birthplace of James Monroe. — 
James Monroe was born in the county 
of Westmoreland on the 28th of April, 
1758. He was seventeen years old, and 
in William and Mary college, at the 
time when the declaration of indepen- 
dence was made by congress, and he 
soon after entered the army as a cadet. 
He was with Washington, as a lieuten- 
ant, at Harlem, White Plains, and Tren- 
ton, At the latter place he was wounded 
in the shoulder, and was promoted to a 
captaincy for his bravery. After his 
recovery, he served as aid-de-camp to 
Lord Stirling in 1777-'78, in the course 
of which he was in the battles of Bran- 
dywine, Germantown, and Monmouth, 

He then returned to Virginia, and en- 
deavored, unsuccessfully, to raise a regi- 
ment ; after which he entered the office 
of Mr. Jefferson as a student of law. 
In 1780 he was appointed military com- 
missioner by Governor Jefferson ; and 
in 1782 was elected into the Virginia 
legislature and made a member of the 
executive council. June 19, 1783, he 
was first chosen a member of congress 
at the age of twenty-four. He married 
Miss Kortright, of New York, in 1786, 
with whom he lived through a long life. 
Leaving congrege after three years' ser- 
vice, he was again elected into the legis- 
lature of his native state, and soon after 
elected to the convention for the adop- 
tion of the federal constitution, which 
he opposed. 

From 1790 to 1794 he was a senator 
of the United States, and was then 
appointed minister plenipotentiary to 
France; and having been recalled, tow- 
ard the close of Washington's adminis- 
tration, was elected governor of Vir- 
ginia. In 1803, he again went to France 



under Jefferson's administration, and, in 
conjunction with Mr. Livingston, nego- 
tiated the treaty for the cession of Lou- 
isiana. He was then appointed succes- 
sor to Mr. King as minister to England ; 
and, having been ordered to Spain, he 
soon after returned to England and back 
to Virginia. After serving again as 
governor of Virginia in 1811, he was 
appointed secretary of state by Mr. 
Madison, and continued in that office 
till, in the second term of the president, 
he was appointed seci'etary of war. On 
the return of peace he again entered 
the office of secretary of state, which he 
held until his election as president of 
the United States in 1817. He was re- 
elected in 1821 ; and at the expiration 
of his second term, in 1825, he retiied 
to private life in Loudoun county, where 
he resumed the practice of an attorney- 
at-law, and was elected a magistrate of 
the county. In 1829 he was chosen a 
member of the convention for the re- 
vision of the constitution of Virginia, 
and made president of it. But before 
its close, his health failed ; he lost his 
wife the following summer; and having 
removed to New York, to reside among 
his friends in that city, he died there 
after a few months, July 4, 1831. 

A short time before his death, con- 
gress appropriated considerable sums of 
money to defray the debts under which 
he had for some time suffered, partly in 
consequence of advances made by him 
for the public account. He was uni- 
formly a supporter of the policy and 
measures of Mr. Jefferson, 

Hampden Sidney College. — This in- 
stitution is situated ten miles southwest 
from Farmville. It was founded in 1774, 
and chartered in 1783, but for a long 
time did not prove very flourishing. It 
has five professors, and about seventy 
students, with eight thousand volumes 
in its libraries. Commencement is held 
on the fourth Wednesday of September. 

The Union Theological Seminary is 
at a short distance from the college. It 
was founded in 1824, and has three pro- 
fessor's, twenty students, and one hun- 
dred and seventy-five under-graduates, 
with about four thousand volumes in its 
libraries. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



3'd: 



Wheeling. — This is the most impor- 
tant town in western Virginia. It is 
one hundred and four miles west of 
Philadelphia, on the Ohio, at the mouth 
of Wheeling creek. It is almost en- 
closed by considerable hills, which afford 
an abundance of bituminous coal. The 
public buildings are a courthouse, two 
banks, a savings institution, a theatre, 
twelve churches, two academies, masonic 
hall, and institute ; and there are a great 
many manufactories. The population is 
about eleven thousand. Water for the 
supply of the town is raised from the 
Ohio. There is a daily communication 
with Pittsburg (Ohio), and the various 
places below on the river. 

Elizabeth. — This town is twelve 
miles below Wheeling, on a plain, once 
the habitation of a large population, 
whose remains are visible in numerous 
ancient tumuli scattered over its surface. 
The largest is one hundred and sixteen 
feet high, and surrounded by a ditch 
four hundred yards in circuit. 

Petersburg, on the north bank of 
the Little Kenhawa river at its conflu- 
ence with the Ohio, has a courthouse, 
two banks, nine churches, and fifteen 
thousand inhabitants. The celebrated 
Blennerhassett's island lies three miles 
below this place. 

Point Pleasant is two hundred and 
twenty-six miles below Pittsburg, on the 
Ohio, at the mouth of the Great Ken- 
hawa. On this spot the great Indian 
battle of October 10, 1774, was fought, 
and Logan, a celebrated chief, defeated. 

FiNCASTLE, in the southeast part of 
the valley of the Catawba, contains a 
courthouse, four churches, and about 
nine hundred inhabitants. It is seven- 
ty five miles from Richmond. 

Botetourt Springs, twelve miles from 
Fincastle, have accommodations for a 
considerable number of visiters, being 
the resort of many in the warm season. 
The water contains magnesia, sulphur, 
and carbonic acid. 

Daggers' Springs are eighteen miles 
from Fincastle, in the midst of a pic- 
turesque region. The waters contain 
the carbonates of soda, magnesia, and 
chlorides of the same, with sulphate of 
soda, &c. 



Abingdon, near Holston river, is the 
largest town in southwestern Virginia, 
with a courthouse, two academies, four 
churches, twelve hundred inhabitants. 

Winchester. — This town is one hun- 
dred and thirteen miles from Baltimore, 
and one hundred and foity-six from 
Richmond ; it is situated in a fine and 
fertile valley, and has regular streets 
lined with handsome houses. The pub- 
lic buildings are the lyceum, masonic 
hall, twelve churches, two banks, one 
savings bank, and an academy. The 
population amounts to four thousand 
five hundred. The town is supplied 
with watei", by iron pipes, from a fine 
spring in the vicinity. There is a daily 
communication with Baltimore in the 
railroad cars. 

Jordan's White Sulplmir Springs, six 
miles north of Winchester, have recently 
become known, and are annually the 
resort of many visiters. The waters are 
said to have a resemblance to those of 
the Greenbi'iar White Sulphur springs. 

Woodstock is sixty-two miles from 
Harper's Ferry, and stands on the north 
bank of the Shenandoah. It has one 
thousand inhabitants. The public build- 
ing are a courthouse, three churches, 
and masonic hall. 

The Yellow, or Orhey Springs, eigh- 
teen miles from Woodstock, give an 
abundant supply of chalybeate water, 
and enjoy a good reputation, 

Staunton. — This town is situated at 
the headwaters of the Shenandoah, one 
hundred and twenty miles from Rich- 
mond, one hundred and sixty-two from 
Washington, and two hundred and seven 
fi'om Baltimore. It has a courthouse, 
the Virginia asylum for the deaf and 
dumb, the Western lunatic asylum, two 
academies, four churches, two semina- 
ries, and two thousand six hundred in- 
habitants. 

The Attgusta Springs are twelve miles 
northwest of Staunton, and are charged 
with sulphuretted hydrogen, resembling 
the Harrowgate springs in England, 

The Cyclopasan Towers are remark- 
able rocks in thia vicinity, 

Wier's Cave, one of the gi-eatest nat- 
ural curiosities in this country, is seven- 
teen miles northwest of Staunton. 



2'^ 



338 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



Martinsburg is twenty miles from 
Haiper's Ferry, stands on the line of 
the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, and 
contains a coui'thouse, six churches, two 
academies, and about one thousand sev- 
en hundred inhabitants. 

Berkeley Springs, a favorite watering- 
place, is twenty-five miles from Mar- 
tinsburg. 

Charlestown. — This place is eight 
miles from Harper's Ferry. The pub- 
lic buildings are a courthouse, an acad- 
emy, and three churches, and the popu- 
lation about fifteen hundred. 

Shannondale Springs. — This favorite 
resort is represented in the vignette at 
the head of this description. Stage- 
coaches run daily to this place from 
Charlestovvn, which is five miles distant, 
and at which place carriages from the 
springs meet the railway. 

The situation of the springs is near the 
foot of the Blue ridge, on Shannondale 
river. Shannondale is situated among 
the green hills, in a romantic bend of the 
Shenandoah, twelve miles from Harper's 
Feriy. The waters resemble those of 
Bedford, containing sulphate and car- 
bonate of lime, sulphate and muriate of 
matruesia, muriate of soda, sulphate and 
carbonate of iron, sulphuretted hydro- 
gen, and carbonic acid. The scenery 
around this spot is remarkably fine and 
varied. These springs are famous for 
the cure of spleen, hypochondria, and 
those gnawing, corroding ailments that 
weigh down the system, without con- 
fining the sufferer to his bed ; and are 
highly medicinal in cases of disease. 

Fairfax Count y — which contains a 
portion of the territory lately included 
in the district of Columbia, viz., that 
part which was ceded to the United 
States by the legislature, and lately re- 
stored to Virginia — was named after 
Lord Fairfax, the proprietor of the tract 
called the " Northern Neck," and an 
indiridual much distinguished by his 
wealth and peculiar character, whose 
family was connected with that of Wash- 
ington, who was a native of the county. 
It is bounded by the Potomac river, 
and crossed by the Occoquan and its 
branches ; has a low and sandy surface, 
like most of the tide-water country of 



Virginia, but in some parts is fertile. 
Large tracts, however, have that aspect 
of desolation which is peculiar to " worn- 
out tobacco lands," in consequence of 
the bad system, long pursued, of raising 
tobacco as long as possible on one field 
after another, and then abandoning them 
successively, without an effort to restore 
the exhausted fertility. The result gen- 
erally is a spontaneous growth of cedars 
and low pines, a sterile and forbidding 
appeai'ance, and a general abandonment 
of the land by the inhabitants. 

The soil, however, has proved valu- 
able in the hands of farmers accustomed 
to a different system of agriculture, on 
both sides of the Potomac. Tracts have 
been rendered productive, especially in 
Fairfax county, where bodies of settlers 
from New York, principally of German 
extraction, purchased land at very low 
prices a few years ago, and are already 
in flourishing circumstances. 

Mount Vernon, in Fairfax county — 
the estate of the Washington family — 
is nine miles south from Alexandria, 
and is remarkable as containing the tomb 
of General Washington. The road is 
somewhat intricate, and has but few in- 
habitants ; so that the stranger, unless he 
goes in a steamboat, will need to make 
careful inquiries. The house stands on 
an eminence, looking down upon the 
Potomac. The buildings which project 
from each end are deformities, which 
greatly mar the effect. 

The key of the bastile of Paris is 
hung up in the hall ; and a miniature 
portrait of Washington, from an earthen 
pitcher, is preserved, which is consid- 
ered by the family the best likeness of 
him ever made. A beautiful lawn, partly 
shaded by trees, extends from the front 
of the mansion to the verge of the preci- 
pice which overhangs the Potomac, and 
affords a delightful view upon the river 
and a tract of hilly country above and 
below. 

This is the place to which Washing- 
ton retired after he had accomplished 
the independence of his country, and 
again when he had presided at the con- 
solidation of the government — volun- 
tarily resigning the stations he had con- 
sented to accept, and the power he 



340 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



had exercised, only for the good of his 
country. To an American this place is 
interesting, in a degree which no lan- 
guage can either heighten or describe. 
Whoever appieciates the value of pri- 
vate and social virtue, will rejoice to 
find it associated with the traits of a 
pei'sonage so distinguished and influen- 
tial ; the consistent politician will rejoice 
to reflect that the principles of natural 
freedom are not restricted to any portion 
of the world, or any part of the human 
race ; while any one who can duly esti- 
mate the extent of the blessings he has 
confened on his country, and the influ- 
ence of his actions on the happiness of 
the world, will wish that his history m.ay 
ever be chei'ished, as a model of sincere 
and disinterested patriotism. 

Last Illness of Washhigton. — On 
Thursday, the 12th of December, 1799, 
while riding over his farms, Washington 
became exposed to a severe storm of 
rain, hail, and snow, with a sharp, pier- 
cing wind. He took a cold, but it did 
not exhibit any alarming symptoms till 
Saturday morning, the 14th, when liis 
throat and chest were so severely aft'ect- 
ed that he could hardly speak, and 
breathed with difficulty. He continued 
to gi'ow worse during the day. His 
medical advisers were sent for, and 
bleeding and other remedies adopted, 
without affordiuo: relief. The following: 
account of his last hours is from a mem- 
orandum of his private secretary: — 

"By Mrs. Washington's request, 1 
despatched a messenger for Dr. Brown, 
of Port Tobacco. About nine o'clock. 
Dr. Craik arrived, and put a blister of 
cantharides on the throat of the general, 
and took more blood, and had some vin- 
egar and hot water set in a teapot, for 
him to draw in the steam from the 
spout. 

" About eleven o'clock, Dr. Dick was 
sent for. Dr. Craik bled the general 
again ; no effect was produced, and he 
continued in the same state, unable to 
swallow anything. Dr. Dick came in 
about three o'clock, and Dr. Brown ar- 
I'ived soon after ; when, after consulta- 
tion, the general was bled again. The 
blood ran slowly, appeared very thick, 
and did not produce any symptoms of 



fainting. At four o'clock, the general 
could swallow a little. Calomel and 
tartar-emetic were administered without 
effect. About half-past four o'clock he 
requested me to ask Mrs. Washington 
to come to his bedside, when he desired 
her to go down to his room, and take 
from his desk two wills which she would 
find there, and brin^g them to him, which 
she did. Upon looking at one, which 
he observed was useless, he desired her 
to burn it, which she did ; and then took 
the other and put it away. After this 
was done, I returned again to his bed- 
side and took his hand. He said to me, 
' I find I am going — my breath can not 
continue long — 1 believed from the first 
attack that it would be fatal. Do you 
arrange and record all my military let- 
ters and papers ; arrange my accounts 
and settle my books, as you know more 
about them than any one else ; and let 
Mr. Rawlins finish recording my other 
letters, which he has begun.' 

" The physicians arrived between five 
and six o'clock, and when they came to 
his bedside. Dr. Craik asked him if he 
would sit up in the bed : he held out his 
hand to me, and was raised up, when he 
said to the physician : * I feel myself go- 
ing; you had better not take any more 
trouble about me, but let me go off" qui- 
etly ; I can not last long.' They found 
what had been done was without effect; 
he lay down again, and they retired, ex- 
cepting Dr. Craik. He then said to him : 
* Doctor, I die hard, but I am not afiaid 
to go ; I believed, from my first attack, 
I should not survive it; my breath can 
not last long.' The doctor pressed his 
hand, but could not utter a word ; he re- 
tired from the bedside and sat by the 
fire, absorbed in grief. About eight 
o'clock the physicians again came into 
the room and applied blisters to his 
legs, but went out without a ray of hope. 
From this time he appeared to breathe 
with less difficulty than he had done, 
but was very restless, continually chang- 
ing his position, to endeavor to get ease. 
I aided him all in my power, and was 
gratified in believing he felt it, for he 
would look upon me with eyes speaking 
gratitude, but unable to utter a word 
without great distress. About ten o'clock 



342 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



he made several attempts to speak to me 
before he could effect it ; at length he 
said ; ' I am just going. Have me decently 
buried ; and do not let my body be put 
into tlie va^ult in less than two days after 
I am dead.' I bowed assent. He looked 
at me again and said, ' Do you under- 
stand me V I replied, ' Yes sir.' * 'Tis 
well,' said he. About ten minutes be- 
fore he expired, his breathing became 
much easier : he lay quietly : he with- 
drew his hand from mine, and felt his 
own pulse. I spoke to Dr. Craik, who 
sat by the fire : hn came to the bedside. 
The general's hand fell from his wrist ; 
I took it in mine, and placed on my 
breast. Dr. Craik placed his hands over 
his eyes ; and he expired without a 
sigh." 

Washington's Tomb is a simple struc- 
ture of stone, only the front of which is 
visible, the other parts being covered 
with the earth of a small sandhill which 
was excavated, and the surface of which 
was left covered with dwarf cedars and 
a few other trees with which it was nat- 
urally shaded. The whole is concealed 
from the view of the passer-by, by a 
neat and substantial stone wall of con- 
siderable height, with a gate, over which 
is a slab bearing this inscription : — 
" Washington Family." 

The surrounding scene is left nearly 
in the state of nature. The irregular 
surface of the ground and the numei'oiis 
trees exclude the sight of every distant 
object ; and there is nothing in view to 
disturb the mind, in the solemn and 
impressive reflections which naturally 
arise within it. Although the Potomac 
flows by at a short distance from the 
spot, and was in full view from near the 
door of the original tomb, every glimpse 
of it is shut out from this, and not a 
single sound intrudes to interrupt the 
solitude. 

Few visiters to the spot obtain an en- 
trance into the tomb, or even through 
the ffate. The stone coffin, which con- 
tains the ashes of the venerable occu- 
pant, is engraved with the arms of the 
United States, and the simple name of 
" Washington." 

The following description of General 
La Fayette's visit to the old tomb, was 



written by his companion and secretary, 
Levasseur : — 

" After a voyage of two hours, the 
guns of Fort Washington announced that 
we were approaching the last abode of 
the Father of his country. At this sol- 
emn signal, to which the military band 
accompanying us responded by plaintive 
strains, we went on deck, and the ven- 
erable soil of Mount Vernon was before 
us. At this view, an involuntai-y and 
spontaneous movement made us kneel. 
We landed in boats, and trod upon the 
ground so often trod by the feet of Wash- 
ington. A carriage received General La 
Fayette, and the other visiters silently 
ascended the precipitous path which con- 
ducted to the solitary habitation of Mount 
Vernon. In re-entering beneath this 
hospitable loof, which had sheltered 
him when the reign of terror tore him 
violently from his country and family, 
George La Fayette felt his heait sink 
within him, at no more finding him 
whose paternal care had softened his 
misfortunes ; while his father sought 
with emotion for everything which re- 
minded him of the companion of his 
glorious toils. 

" Three nephews of General Wash- 
ington took La Fayette, his son, and 
myself, to conduct us to the tomb of 
their uncle ; our numerous companions 
I'emained in the house. In a few min- 
utes the cannon, thundering anew, an- 
nounced that La Fayette rendered hom- 
age to the ashes of Washington. Simple 
and modest as he was during life, the 
tomb of the citizen-hero is scarcely per- 
ceived among the sombre cypresses by 
which it is surrounded. A vault, slightly 
elevated and sodded over — a wooden 
door without inscriptions — some with- 
ered and green garlands, indicate to the 
traveller, who visits the spot, where rest 
in peace the puissant arms which broke 
the chains of his country. As we ap- 
proached, the door was opened. La 
Fayette descended alone into the vault, 
and a few minutes after reappeared with 
his eyes overflowing with tears. He 
took his son and me by the hand, and 
led us into the tomb, where, by a sign, 
he mdicated the coffin. We knelt rev- 
erentially, and rising, threw ourselves 



344 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



into the arms of La Fayette, and min- 
gled our tears with his." 

Williamsburg, though a small place, 
is the oldest incorporated town in the 
state, and was formerly the capital. It 
is fifty-eight miles fi'om Richmond, and 
sixty-eight from Norfolk. It has three 
churches, a magazine, two seminaries, 
the eastern lunatic asylum, and William 
and Mary college. The number of in- 
habitants is about two thousand. 

The Statue of Lord Botetourt stands 
in the square, which retains a portion 
of its original beauty, though much mu- 
tilated, having been a good specimen 
of sculpture. He was one of the first 
judges of the colony. It was erected 
in 1774, at the expense of the colony. 

William and Marij College. — This 
was the first literary institution of the 
higher kind in Virginia, having been 
founded in 1692, under the reign of the 
sovereigns whose name it bears. They 
were its liberal benefactoi-s, granting it 
twenty thousand acres of land as an en- 
dowment. There are five professors, 
about one hundred students, and about 
four thousand volumes in its libraries. 
The institution embraces a law depart- 
ment. The commencement is held on 
the 4th of July. 

This institution is the oldest of that 
name in the Union, with the single ex- 
ception of Harvard university, but was 
long kept as a mere grammar dchool. 
Many of its gi-aduates have been among 
the most distinguished men in the state 
and nation. Some t>f the hooks in the 
library bear the name of Robert Din- 
widdie and his coat-of-arms, with his mot- 
to : " Uhi lihcrtas, ihi j^atria.^^ Among 
the most valuable works is Catesby's 
Natural Histevy of Carolina, Florida, 
and the Bahaiua Banks, two volumes 
folio, English and French — printed in 
1754. The first building was erected 
in 1793, in Williamsburg; but it was 
not until some important changes were 
made in the plan of the institution, that 
it began to assume the character of a 
college. The two professorships in di- 
vinity and that for Latin and Greek, 
established in 1692, were substituted 
by professorships in other departments. 
Among the six formerly existing was one 



for the instruction and conversion of 
the Indians, founded by Mr. Boyle, of 
England. 

The Old Capitol. — A few fragments 
only now remain of the building known 
as " the capitol." This, however, was 
not the first edifice erected for the capi- 
tol of the colony, which was consumed 
by fire in 1746. Its successor also was 
burned in 1832, and that is the one 
whose remains are to be seen. Within 
its walls some interesting incidents oc- 
curred. There Washington received, 
in his youth, an expression of the thanks 
of the colonial legislature, on his return 
from the French war, from the lips of 
Mr. Robinson, the speaker, who com- 
plimented him in such high terms, that, 
with characteristic modesty, he blushed, 
trembled, and stammered — unable to 
return a distinct answer. To relieve 
his embarrassment, the speaker kindly 
said : " Sit down, Mr. Washington ; your 
modesty is equal to your valor, and that 
surpasses the power of any language 
that I possess." 

In the same building, Patrick Henry 
made his first public speech before the 
house of burgesses ; and although in a 
coarse dress, and with the air of '* an 
obscure and unpolished rustic," he as- 
tonished the aristocratic members of the 
chamber, by his vigorous eloquence. 

The old Raleigh Tavern is still to be 
seen, distinguished by a bust of Sir 
Walter Raleigh over the door. It is the 
place in which some of the most impor- 
tant committees of the legislature used 
to meet in the Revolutionary days ; and 
there is said to have been first conceived 
and proposed, by Henry Lee and his 
associates, the system of correspondence 
which was carried on with so much suc- 
cess during the war. 

Lord Dunsmore'-s Palace. — Two small 
buik'ings may be seen, which are the 
remains of the edifice occupied by Lord 
Dunsmore, the last royal governor of 
Vii'ginia. They stand in a small court, 
which formed part of the extensive 
gi'ounds which surrounded his mansion, 
and then embraced three hundred and 
sixty acres. There he maintained a 
splendid style of living; but, being op- 
posed to the rising spiiit of the people 



346 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



at the approaching of the revolutionary 
period, he was deprived of his place 
and power. 

The Old Magazine, — This is an an- 
cient octagonal building, on the square, 
erected above one hundred and twenty 
years since, from which Governor Duns- 
more, in 1775, removed the gunpowder 
of the colony on board the man-of-war 
Magdalen, then in the harbor. This 
act excited the people to form the first 
armed forces assembled in opposition to 
the British government. 

YoRKTowN, seventy miles from Rich- 
mond, is situated on the right bank of 
York river, and is distinguished for the 
closing military scene of the American 
revolution, the surrender of Lord Corn- 
wallis, which put a close to the strug- 
gle between Great Britain and the new 
states. It was founded in 1705, and 
was formerly much more flourishing than 
it now is. The number of inhabitants 
is very much reduced, so that it is hardly 
worthy of the name of a village, con- 
taining scarcely forty houses, and these 
marked by decay. York county was 
one of the eight original counties into 
which Virginia was divided in 1634. 
The situation is pleasant, and many of 
the scenes are fine. 

The York Tavern, in the village, is 
believed to be the oldest in the state. 
The ruins of the old church have a sad 
and solemn aspect. It was built above 
one hundred and fifty years ago, and 
destroyed by fire in 1814. The bell is 
preserved, and bears this inscription : — 

*^ County of York, Virginia, 1725." 

The walls of the building were com- 
posed of marl, which was soft when first 
dug from the ground, but hardened like 
stone after a little time. 

The White Sulphur Spring, in Green- 
briar county, two hundred and twelve 
miles from Richmond, is situated in an 
elevated and beautifully picturesque val- 
ley, hemmed in by mountains on every 
side, and in the midst of the celebrated 
" spring region." Its elevation above 
tidewater is two thousand feet. It bursts 
with boldness from rock-lined apertures, 
and is enclosed by marble casements 
five feet square and three and a half 
feet deep. Its temperature is sixty-two 



degrees Fahrenheit, and remains uni- 
formly the same, winter and summer. 
The principal spring yields about eigh- 
teen gallons per minute, and is never 
increased or diminished by any chan"-es 
of weather. The water is perfectly clear 
and transparent, and deposites copiously, 
as it floats over a rough and uneven sur- 
face of rocks, a white precipitate — some- 
times, under peculiar circumstances, red 
and black — composed in part of its in- 
gredients. Its taste and smell, fresh at 
the spring, are those of all waters so 
strongly impregnated with sulphuretted 
hydrogen gas. 

The fountain is enclosed and covered 
by a circular edifice, about thirty feet in 
diameter, supported by pillars like the 
cupola of a church or other public build- 
ing, except that in place of a weather- 
cock, or some religious emblem, the 
summit is handsomely embellished with 
a large marble figure of Hygeia (the 
goddess of health), presented by the 
late Mr. Henderson, of New Orleans, 
in a spirit of gratitude for the benefit 
he had received at this noble fountain. 
Here visiters resort early in the morn- 
ing, to quaff" from two to six glasses of 
water impregnated chiefly with sulphate 
of lime, sulphate of magnesia, and sul- 
phate of soda. 

Within two hundred yards of the 
spi'ing, in the centre of the valley, which 
here spreads out nearly to a plane sui- 
tace, and at the lower end of a lawn of 
some eight or ten acres, stands the dining 
hall, near two hundred feet long, with 
tables to seat six hundred guests. From 
one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
cabins and cottages are ranged along at 
considerable elevation above the spring, 
in curvilinear form, adapted to the sinu- 
osities of the mountain base that skirts j 
the valley, and other irregularities of I 
the site ; but still making nearly an ob- { 
long squai-e, and occupying a line of 
perhaps nearly a mile in its entire length, 
enclosing an area of ten or twelve acres, 
well set in blue grass, intersected with 
dry walks for exercise, and ornamented 
with tliat variety of trees which seems 
characteristic of this region. Here the 
native oak in all its grandeur ; there the 
symmetrical sugar-maple; next again 



348 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



the hickory (that of the old stock), and 
hard by the locust. 

These beautiful forest-trees have been 
so judiciously left and pruned, as not to 
conceal or smother what they were in- 
tended to shade and beautify ; and make, 
with the cottages, especially when these 
are lighted up at night, altogether a fine 
panorama. 

Lord Morpeth and other distinguished 
foreigners have, in their admiration, pro- 
nounced the bath at the Warm and the 
White Sulphur spi'ings — for arrange- 
ment and extent of accommodations, 
scenery, and health-giving qualities of 
the water — far superior to any similar 
resorts in Europe. 

The cabins are all of brick, or neatly 
framed, finished, and painted, with a 
nice piazza separately railed in for each. 
Many of them display handsome and 
chaste specimens of architecture. 

Travellers leaving Baltimore in the 
morning, by the railroad, reach Win- 
chester the same evening ; thence travel 
by post-coach, along a Macadamized 
turnpike, one hundred miles up the val- 
ley of Stanton ; sup and lodge the next 
night at Cloverdale ; and the second 
mcjrning breakfast at the Warm springs. 
The wai'm bath is forty feet in diameter 
and six feet in depth, ninety-eight de- 
grees Fahrenheit, and withal clear as 
crystal and sparkling as champagne. 

A Negro Cabin. — There is consid- 
erable difference in the form, size, and 
materials of the habitations of negroes 
in Virginia, especially if we include those I 
in the principal towns. That repre- 1 
sented in the cut may be taken as a | 
specimen of the largest and best kind i 
ordinarily seen in the country. The i 
negi'O huts are usually built in clusters ; 
those for the family servants forming a j 
quadrangle in the yard, and others be- i 
ing placed at a greater or less distance 
from the house of the planter, accord- 
ing to the extent of his estate. 

Most of them are built of logs or the 
bodies of small trees; the materials dif- 
fer, however, in certain parts of the ' 
country ; some of the poorer white peo- ; 
pie dwelling in huts of a similar descrip- 
tion. The arrangements and furniture , 
are of the simplest kind. The chinks | 



between the logs or boards are filled, 
entirely or pai'tly, with moss or clay ; 
the chimneys are formed of small sticks 
and covered with mud ; the floor is the 
ground, which often serves for beds at 
night. 

The following is fi-om a recent letter- 
wi'iter : — 

" Not long ago, I attended a funeral 
of an aged female slave. About the 
grave were gathered some two score of 
negroes ; and as the coffin descended 
into the tomb, the moistened eye of 
every one bespoke the touched heart; 
and an old man, with half-choked utter- 
ance, said : * Cry not, my friends, our 
sister has gone from us, but we mus 
meet her de oder side of de grave. De 
great Master has sent for her, and she 
is now at home. God grant we be dere 
too!' The chips made in constructing 
the coffin, were burned in a fire made 
for the purpose in the open air, as they 
believe that death will soon enter the 
family on whose hearth-stone they are 
burned. Several weeks after the burial 
the sermon is preached. Crowds of 
slaves attend, and all are treated abun- 
dantly to refreshments of every kind. 

" An old servant, who often speaks 
of the surrender at Yorktown, and of 
the scenes that were witnessed at the 
time by him — and who told me that he 
' learned to read' when he went with his 
' young master to college' — now that he 
is exempt from labor, spends his time 
in reading his bible, and in ' fighting his 
battles over again.' I often see him of 
a Sunday evening, surrounded by an 
audience of his own race, reading and 
explaining the Scriptures to them ; and 
they, in the meantime, manifest their 
appreciation of the sacred word, by 
looks of the most active interest, and 
expressions of joy and comfort." 

Wellsburg, eighty-seven miles from 
Pittsburg, on the Ohio river, has a bank, 
a courthouse, five churches, with several 
manufactories, and about two thousand 
inhabitants. 

Bethany is eight miles east from 
Wellsboro'. It is a small village, but 
is the seat of 

'Bethany College, an institution with 
about one hundred pupils. 



350 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



Pocahontas. — No other Indian fe- 
male ever rendered such a sei'vice to a 
white man as Pocahontas, under cir- 
cumstances so well calculated to excite 
admiration. All have read the simple 
narrative of her intercession to save the 
life of Captain Smith, at that critical 
period when his death would probably 
have led to the extirpation of his little 
suffering colony. But perhaps many 
have lost sight of one circumstance which 
is calculated to enhance its effect upon 
the feelings. We refer to the tender 
years of the heroine : she was a child 
of only twelve or thirteen years of age. 

From the accounts we have of the 
case, we see abundant reason to believe 
that nothing could have directed her in 
the course she pursued, but a strong 
natural dictate of humanity. Yet why 
she should have been so affected in that 
case, it is difficult to say, as it may be 
presumed she had witnessed scenes of 
cruelty, bloodshed, and murder, among 
the savage race, and in the savage fam- 
ily to which she belonged. Many of 
the actions of Indians, we find on nearer 
acquaintance with them, are dictated by 
some of their strange superstitious no- 
tions, A dream, an unusual sight or 
sound, or some other trifle, they often 
believe to be connected with something 
which gives it importance. This is es- 
pecially true of the men, whose dreams 
in their initiatory fasts decide some im- 
portant point for life. 

We have no particular reason, how- 
ever, to assign such a motive to Poca- 
hontas, any more than to the celebrated 
Indian princess who figures so remark- 
ably in the early history of New Eng- 
land — the wife of Mononotto, the Pequod 
sachem, whose refinement and dignity, 
as well as her humanity, excited the ad- 
miration of Governor Winslow, familiar 
as he was with the manners of the Eng- 
lish court. 

It was in the gloomy year when the 
little colony at Jamestown (the first 
which survived the trials oft the settle- 
ment) was reduced to such sufferings by 
the scarcity of food, that Smith, with 
the determination of relieving them, ven- 
tured among the Indians in the interior, 
and after proceeding up James river in 



a boat, left it with his companions at 
the landing, and went on toward the 
dwelling of Powhatan. This would, 
probably, have appeared only a bold 
step, if he had met with no difficulty; 
but we are so prone to judge of an act 
by its consequences, that when we see 
him falling into a snare, laid on a rock, 
and a war-club raised to dash out his 
brains, we are ready to call him incon- 
siderate and rash. He appeared to have 
retained his presence of mind through 
all his dangers, and by happy expedients 
twice obtained a short reprieve, viz. : 
by showing the savages his pocket com- 
pass, and by sending to Jamestown for 
medicine to cure a sick Indian. These 
and other circumstances may have had 
their influence on the feelings of the 
young princess. But, whatever was the 
cause, she behaved like a heroine ; and 
not in one case only, or toward a single 
individual. By a timely message, sent 
no doubt with great personal risk, she 
warned the infant colony of the mur- 
derous plots of the savages. 

Through her intercession, an English 
boy, named Henry Spilman, was saved 
from death, and afterward rendered the 
colonists much service. So strong was 
the fi-iendship of Pocahontas for the 
whites, that she left her home, and re- 
sided with the Patamowekes, whose 
sachem, Japazas, was a friend of Smith's, 
that she might not witness the death of 
English prisoners, whom she could no 
longer rescue from the bloody hands of 
her father. Strange as it may seem, 
however, she was sold by that sachem 
to Captain Argall for a copper kettle, as 
he thought her father's attachment to 
her might prevent him from prosecuting 
his bitter persecutions of the colony. 
Her father sought to recover her ; but, 
before any arrangement was made for 
the return of the interesting captive, she 
gave her consent to marry an English- 
man named Rolfe, who had long before 
contracted an affection for her. 

The character of Powhatan is a very 
marked one. His attachment to his 
daughter alone would be enough to vin- 
dicate the red race from the charge of 
being without natural affection. He at 
first opposed her marriage, but after- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF VIRGINIA. 



351 



ward gave his consent, despatched an 
officer to witness the ceremony, sent a 
deerskin to Pocahontas and another to 
her husband, and maintained thei'eafter 
the most friendly terms with the col- 
onists. 

Yet Powhatan refused to give his 
younger daughter in marriage to Gov- 
ernor Dale, though solicited by him and 
her sister — saying to the messenger : — 

" Go back to your governor, and tell 
him that 1 value his love and peace, 
wliich, while I live, I will keep. Tell 
him that I love my daughter as my life ; 
and though I have many cliildren, I have 
none like her. If I could not see her, 
I would not live ; and if I give her to 
you, I shall never see her. I hold it 
not a brotherly part to desire to take 
away two children at once." 

Pocahontas was baptized, and re- 
ceived the name of Rebecca. In 1616 
she made a voyage to England with her 
husband, where she was received with 
much attention. Her husband had just 
been appointed to an office in the col- 
ony, and was preparing to return when 
she died, at the age of twenty-two. Her 
only child, a son, was educated by his 
uncle in Virginia, and his daughter was 
tlie ancestor of the Randolphs, and sev- 
eral other principal families of the state. 

John Randolph. — A writer in the 
Norfolk Beacon describes a visit to the 
grave of this remarkable man, and in 
speaking of his former i-esidence, thus 
writes : — 

" After a ride of two or three hours, 
we entered a forest of tall oaks, and 
were told by Mr. Cardwell that we were 
on Mr. Randolph's estate. Shortly the 
houses that were occupied by the great 
and eccentric genius appeared through 
the intervening trees, built up in the 
midst of the woods. Not a stump to 
be seen, not a bush grubbed up — all 
standing as if the foot of man had never 
trodden there. Mr. Randolph would 
not suffer the primitive aspect of things 
to be disturbed in the least. Not a tree, 
or a branch, or a switch, was allowed to 
be cut. During his al)sence in Europe, 
a limb of an oak, projecting toward a 
window of one of the houses, drew so 
near that old Essex, fearing the window 



would be broken, cut off the limb. On 
Mr. Randolph's return, he at once dis- 
covered the mutilation ; old Essex was 
called up, and the reason demanded 
for cutting off the limb. The old negro 
told his master he feai-ed the window 
would be broken. ' Then,' said Mr. R., 
' why did you not move the house V 

The writer met John, the former body 
servant of Mr. Randolph, who treated 
him with great politeness. He says : — 

" At my request, John directed us to 
his master's grave, at the foot of a lofty 
pine, just a few steps in the rear of the 
summer-house; the place was selected 
by Mr. R., just twenty years before his 
death, and by his direction his head was 
laid to the east instead of the west, the 
usual position. It was observed to John 
that his master had ordered his body to 
be thus laid, that he might watch Henry 
Clay. John replied that he had never 
heard him say anything of the kind. I 
suppose the position was preferred by 
Mr. Randolph because it is the Indian 
sepulchral posture ; his descent from 
Pocahontas, the Indian princess, being 
one of the things he much boasted of. 
A rude unchiselled mass of white rock, 
found by him on a distant part of his 
estate many years before his death, and 
used by him at the door of one of his 
houses as a washstand, marks the head 
of the grave. A huge mass of brown 
stone, also selected by him and used as 
a stepstone to mount his horse, marks 
the foot of the grave. These rocks were 
procured and kept for the purpose to 
which they are now appropriated, and 
particular directions were given to John 
on the subject. 

" I can never forget my emotion while 
standing over the unornamented grave 
of the gifted and eccentric Randolph. 
The tall, unbroken forest by which I 
was surrounded — the silence and gloom 
that reigned undisturbed amid the de- 
serted place — the thought of the brilliant 
mind that once animated the remains 
then mouldering beneath the sod upon 
which I was standing — the vanity of 
earth's promises, hopes, and distinctions, 
impressed my heart and mind with a 
degree of solemnity and interest I was 
unwilling to dissipate." 




Like the other southern Atlantic 
states, the coast of North Carolina is 
uniformly flat, low, and sandy, but lit- 
tle elevated above the water's level, 
and generally covered with pine for- 
ests. It extends 320 miles ; and the 
low, sandy region referred to reaches 
from SO to 100 miles westward, to 
the hilly regions, forming an area of 
23,000 square miles. All this, with 
scarcely an exception, is a dead level, 
with but few spots of good soil, and 
showing but little cultivation, althougli 
the live oak grows readily in some 
parts, and figs and some other fruits 
are easily cultivated in the most favored positions. One of the principal occupa- 
tions of the inhabitants has ever been tlae collection of turpentine, pitch, rosin, 
and tar, the first of which is a spontaneous effiision of the yellow pine when 
wounded, and the others the same substance in different degrees of inspissation, 
effected by the heat of fire applied to the trees when cut in pieces, and partly col- 
ored by smoke. This same business was carried on in many other of our states 
in their early periods, but in the most of them the supplies of turpentine have 
long failed, in consequence of the clearing of the pine land ; but the vast extent 
of the terebinthine forests of North Carolina has perpetuated this branch of man- 
ufactures to the present day. 

It may be presumed that such a soil and surface, and such a situation, could not 
prove favorable to the prosperity of the people. The monotony of the landscape 
coiTesponds too nearly with the monotony of life and stationary condition of society, 
in which the difficulties of elevating habits or education are almost insurmountable. 
The hilly region of the state, which bounds the sandy region on the west, 
presents a marked and sudden change in climate, soil, and population. It oc- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



353 



cupies an area of 14,000 square miles, 
with a general, gentle slope to the south- 
oast, cut through, at intervals, by rivers. 
The Roanoke, Yadkin, Catawba, Tar, 
Ncuse, and Cape Fear rivers, are the 
principal streams of the state, but the 
Catawba and Yadkin, rising in the mid- 
dle region, empty in South Carolina. 

The Blue Ridge, which in several 
other states forms the eastern range of 
high land, is here in the rear of two oth- 
er hilly ranges, if, indeed, the Blue 
Ridge can with propriety be said to cross 
this state. A large part of this region 
is varied in a pleasing manner by hill 
and valley; while the soil is good, the 
climate cool, and the productions those 
of the temperate regions, including 
wheat, grass, potatoes, apples, peaches, 
and Indian corn, which is the staple 
product. The villages are numerous 
and flourishing ; the people industrious, 
intelligent, and prosperous ; and literary 
institutions are founded with success. 
The more elevated parts, as in the ad- 
joining states, have weather as cold in 
the winter, as in some of those much 
farther north. Iron is the only metal 
found in considerable quantities, and this 
is mined and manufactured to some ex- 
tent. Gold has been found on the sur- 
face, in a ran<Te of counties at the dividing^ 
line of the two regions, in loose particles 
or quartz stones, apparently the debris 
of a stratum of the hilly region, and 
perhaps belonging to a long auriferous 
range, extending from Georgia to Vir- 
ginia. Some geologists think it may be 
traced much further. About fifteen years 
ago, much interest was raised in the 
North Carolina gold mines, and several 
companies were formed, in New York 
and elsewhere, and mining operations 
were undertaken, partly with steam ma- 
chines imported from Europe. The 
sanguine expectations of adventurers 
were, however, soon disappointed ; but 
considerable quantities of gold are still 
annually derived from this state by the 
U. S. mint. 

The western part of the state has a 
plope towai-d the northwest, and is 
drained by several of the branches of 
the Tennessee river. 

Although settlements were begun 



within the territory of this state at an 
early period, they were retarded by a 
variety of untoward circumstances, aii- 
sing partly from the nature of the coun- 
try, and partly from the influence of un- 
wise policy and evil men. The weak- 
ness of the colonists, and the fear of the 
Indians, long prevented the occupation 
of land in the interior; and the seacoast 
offered only tracts of poor, sandy soil, 
burdened with pine forests, almost inca- 
pable of improvement, and at a uniform 
low level, but little higher than the 
ocean. The higher regions, now so 
flourishing and populous, lie far in 
the interior; but they were long un- 
known, and longer unoccupied. 

The first attempts to colonize this part 
of the country, were made by the French 
under Charles IX., from whose name 
(in Latin Carolus) the Cai'olinas derived 
their appellation. The interference of 
the Spaniai'ds broke up the settlements. 
In 1586, Sir Walter Raleigh sent out a 
small colony from England, under a pat- 
ent from Queen Elizabeth ; but no trace 
was ever found of them, and the pre- 
sumption is that they were destroyed by 
the Indians. 

North Carolina was included in the 
patent granted to Sir Robert Heath, at- 
torney-general of Charles II., in 1630, 
which extended from Louisiana to the 
36th degree of north latitude, and, as 
usual with English patents in those days, 
west to the Pacific ocean. All this ex- 
tensive region was named Carolina; but 
as circumstances did not favor the settle- 
ment within the specified time, it soon 
became null, and was afterward super- 
seded by a grant obtained from the same 
monarch, by Lord Clarendon, and some 
of his other friends, which embraced all 
the territory between the 31st and 36th 
degrees of north latitude. 

In the meantime, however, settlements 
had been made north of Albemarle 
Sound, by colonists discontented with 
the intolerant measures adopted in Vir- 
ginia, and several families from Massa- 
chusetts arrived at Caps Fear, to engage 
in fishing. The latter, however, were 
soon obliged to apply for assistance to 
their friends at the north, which they 
received. 



23 



354 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



After the new charter had been grant- 
ed, the colonists at Albemarle were 
placed under the jurisdiction of the gov- 
ernor of Virginia, Sir William Berkeley, 
who soon paid them a visit, and appoint- 
ed Drummond to be their governor. In 
1666, they chose the first assembly ever 
formed in this part of our country, and 
sent their new governor, Stephens, with 
a petition for the privilege of holding 
their lands on the same terms as their 
neighbors in Virginia, which was grant- 
ed them. A new constitution was also 
made, which provided for an annual 
election of members of the assembly by 
the colonists, while the choice of gov- 
ernor and half of the council was left to 
file proprietors. The taxes were to be 
laid by the assembly. In 1669, the first 
assembly under this constitution held 
their first session. 

A constitution for the colony was 
drawn up this year by the celebrated 
author John Locke, at the request of 
Lord Clarendon; but, as might have 
been expected, the general views on 
which it was founded, proved quite in- 
applicable to the people and the coun- 
try, and the experiment remains as a 
warning to all men who would meddle 
with plans of government for com- 
munities with which they are unac- 
quainted. 

A new colony was formed south of 
Cape Fear, by a band of men from Bar- 
badoes, under Governor Yeamans, who 
was created a baronet, and soon after a 
landgrave, and the district was named 
the county of Clarendon. This settle- 
ment was soon divided, and we may now 
begin to speak of North and South Car- 
olina as partly distinct ; for, while a 
part of the settlers removed to Charles- 
ton, which had just been occupied, the 
remainder were soon united with Albe- 
marle. 

But many obstacles awaited the north- 
ern division of Carolina. In 1677 a re- 
bellion against the government was head- 
ed by Culpepper, a restless and trouble- 
some man, who usurped the government 
and held it for two years, but was super- 
seded by Governor Eastchurch, after 
which he went to England, to offer the 
submission of the colonists on conditions. 



but was saved from punishment by the 
favor of Lord Shaftsbury. He after- 
ward purchased the interest of Lord 
Clarendon, took the government in 1683, 
and so disaffected the people by his cor- 
rupt policy, that they seized and impris- 
oned him in 1688, and afterward ban- 
ished him for a year. 

A band of Huguenots arrived from 
France in 1707, and settled on the Trent, 
a branch of the Neuse, who were suc- 
ceeded in 1710 by a party of Palatines 
from Germany, and each received a grant 
of 100 acres of land. But most of these 
unfortunate colonists were soon after 
massacred, in a sudden arid treacherous 
attack by 1,200 Indians, from several 
nations, and only a small number escaped, 
to tell the tale in the southern colony. 

Passing over some years, for even a 
sketch of which we have no room, we 
shall barely note the period of the sep- 
aration of Carolina into two provinces. 
In 1730, George Burrington was ap- 
pointed governor of North Carolina, by 
the crown, and he assumed his office at 
Edenton, Feb. 25th, 1731. 

To secure the friendship of the In- 
dians, Sir Edward Cumming was sent 
to the Cherokee country, which em- 
braced all the land between North and 
South Carolina and the AUeganies, and 
contained 20,000 persons, of whom 6,000 
were warriors. The chiefs acknowl- 
edged King George their sovereign, on 
their knees, and sent a deputation to 
England. 

As eai'ly as 1731 rice had become the 
staple production of the colony, and was 
exported in great quantities. 

In 1738, commissioners appointed by 
the two colonies, began to run the boun- 
dary line, as fixed by royal command, 
from the northeast end of Long bay, 
northwestwardly to the 35th degree of 
latititude, and thence westwardly to the 
South sea ! After running it 64 miles, it 
was agreed that the dividing line between 
the Cherokees and the Catawbas should, 
for the present, be considered the line of 
the colonies. The same year, the three 
counties, Albemarle, Bath, and Claren- 
don, into which the colony had before 
this been divided, were abolished, and 
the precincts were erected into counties. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



355 



Provision was made for placing buoys in 
the rivers, and otherwise improving the 
navigation. 

Soldiers were raised in North Caro- 
lina in 1740, for the expedition sent 
against Pensacola from Charleston, and 
also to join the expedition against Cuba. 
The legislature, for the support of the 
war, laid a poll-tax of three shillings 
"proclamation money," to be paid in 
tobacco, rice, Indian-dressed skins, bees- 
wax, tallow, pork, and beef In Albe- 
marle, the people were allowed to pay 
in bills of credit, at the rate of seven 
and a half pounds for one pound procla- 
mation money. The ordinary taxes 
were also made payable in the above- 
mentioned aiticles, and warehouses to 
receive them were ordered to be built in 
all the counties. To encourage immi- 
gration, foreigners were offered the priv- 
ileges of citizens, after seven years res- 
idence, by taking the oath of abjuration, 
and receiving the communion in a prot- 
estant church ; Jews and quakers being 
excused from the last. 

The same year, in consequence of 
complaints made by British merchants 
against the paper money, the legislature 
agreed to issue no more without the con- 
sent of the king. To the expedition 
against Havana, under Admiral Vernon, 
in 1741, North Carolina supplied 400 
men. The legislature divided the col- 
ony into 14 parishes, regulated the elec- 
tion of churchwardens and vestrymen, 
provided for the erection of churches, the 
apprehension of fugitives, and the trial 
and punishment of slaves, defining the 
rights and duties of masters and servants, 
and laying restrictions on the emancipa- 
tion of the latter. 

The legislature, in 1743, although 
urged by the governor to make spirited 
preparations for defence against the 
Spaniards and French, in consequence 
of the threatening aspect of affairs, con- 
sented only to erect magazines in the dif- 
ferent counties. The next year, John, 
Lord Carteret, afterward earl of Gran- 
ville, had one eighth part of the original 
province of Carolina, which had been 
reserved to him by act of parliament, 
set apart to him, he resigning his inter- 
est in the government, and his title to 



the other seven. His territory ex- 
tended from Virginia to a line drawn in 
latitude 35 degrees 34 minutes from the 
Atlantic to the Pacific ! This tract was 
granted to Lord Carteret (except the 
powers of government), to be holden on 
the payment of thirty-threa shillings and 
fourpence yearly, for ever, with one 
fourth of all the gold and silver ore. 

War having been declared by Eng- 
land against France, in 1745, Fort John- 
son was erected at the mouth of Cape 
Fear river, for 24 cannon. The village 
of Powerscreek, on that part of the riv- 
er, was then expected to become an im- 
portant port, but Wilmington has in- 
creased at its expense. Two years af- 
ter this, a number of the adherents of 
the Pretender, after the failui'e of his 
attempt to seize the crown of England, 
settled in the vicinity of the present town 
of Fayetteville. The legislature took 
measures to have the laws printed for 
the use of the people. They had hith- 
erto been circulated in loose manu- 
scripts. 

After the passage of the stamp-act by 
the British parliament, meetings were 
held in Edenton, Newbem, and Wil- 
mington, to express the strong disap- 
probation of the people, and their con- 
currence with the northern colonies. A 
spirited address was published by an il- 
literate but patriotic man at Nutbush, 
Granville county, "containing a brief 
nai'rative of our deplorable situation, and 
the wrongs we suffer, and some neces- 
sary hints with respect to a reformation." 
The representatives of Massachusetts, 
in June, directed their speaker to ad- 
dress the speakers of the other colonial 
legislatures, inviting a meeting at New 
York, on the first Tuesday in October, 
at which North Carolina was not repre- 
sented. The people, however, in all 
their public meetings, expressed warm 
approbation of the measures adopted by 
the northern colonies. 

Early in the year 1766, the sloop-of- 
war Diligence arrived in Cape Fear riv- 
er, with stamped paper for distribution ; 
but Colonels Ashe and Waddle assembled 
the militia at Brunswick, and informed 
the commander that they would resist 
the landing of the stamps. They seized 



356 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



one of the boats, and carried it in tri- 
umj^h through Wilmington. The next 
day, Col. Ashe led a party to the gover- 
nor's house, and threatened to set fire to 
it unless the stamp officer gave them an 
audience. The latter was induced to 
resign his office. In February a riot 
took place in Wilmington, and a duel, in 
which an officer was killed. 

In 1767, the two houses of the legis- 
lature joined in an address to the king, 
on the repeal of the stamp-act, after the 
lower house had resisted all the exertions 
of the governor to reconcile them to it. 
The document was written with ability, 
and disclaimed every disloyal intention. 
But the vanity of Governor Tryon led 
him this year to begin a project, which 
laid the foundation of serious difficulties 
to the colony. This was the erection 
of a palace for his residence, at tlie 
expense of the people. The houses 
were prevailed upon to appropriate 
t€5,000, which he expended in purcha- 
sing ground at Newborn, and laying a 
foundation, the money having been whol- 
ly intrusted to him. He made himself 
ridiculous, also, by making an ostenta- 
tious military display, in leading a party 
westward, to settle the boundary with 
the Indians. The next year, c£10,000 
were added to the palace fund, and a mob 
was soon raised in the west, which set 
the government at defiance for several 
years, often overawing the officers and 
courts by a display of armed companies, 
sometimes to the number of 1,500 men; 
the people having bound themselves to 
pay no taxes, until they should have 
some security for the proper use of their 
money. They several times seemed sat- 
isfied, and made veiy humble acknowl- 
edgments, particularly to the king. 

The governor's palace having been 
completed, in 1770 the legislature were 
received there, and the edifice is de- 
scribed as one of great magnificence, 
even for England. But the attempt to 
get an obnoxious friend of the governor 
into the lower house, again excited the 
mob (or regulators as they called them- 
selves), who threatened to burn the town. 
A ditch was dug from river to river for 
defence, and the counti-y militia were 
ordered to be in readiness to march in. 



I The legislature had, before this time, 
addressed the king on the subject of tax- 
ation without representation, in the spir- 
it of Massachusetts and other colonies, 
though in opposition to the repeated re- 
monstrances of the governor. In 1770. 
the sheriffs were ordered to disperse 
every meeting of ten men, wherever as- 
sembled, and it was declared to be fel- 
ony, without benefit of clergy, to diso- 
; bey, or to undertake any unlawful acts. 
; The next year the public troubles 
came to a crisis. Governor Tryon, at 
the head of a few hundred militia, met 
. a somewhat more numerous body of reg- 
I ulators at the gi-eat Almance river, and, 
I after repeated attempts to bring them to 
j an accommodation, had a sharp battle 
I with them for an hour, which discipline 
and cannon decided in his favor. A few 
i executions terminated the whole, and the 
I governor soon sailed for New York. 

In 1774, on the 25th of August, a 
meeting: of deleg^ates was held at New- 
bern, representing meetings of the peo- 
ple in all parts of the state, who had as- 
sembled to express their feelings on the 
condition of the country; and although 
the govenier called the council, they re- 
fused to ac*", while the convention chose 
John Harvey, of Perquiman, for speak- 
er, and adopted resolutions, expressive 
of unshaken loyalty, but firmly in favor 
of the country, and opposed to the north- 
port act, the taxes on tea, &c. They 
applauded the measures of Massachu- 
setts, and resolved not to import, pur- 
chase, nor export, until American griev- 
ances were removed. They approved of 
the proposed congress at Philadelphia, 
resolved to hold no intercourse with 
persons or towns who would not co-ope- 
rate with them, and agreed to contribute 
for the relief of Boston sufferers. They 
then appoiiited deputies to the congress, 
William Hooper, of Doange, Joseph 
Hewes, of Edenton, and Richard Cas- 
well, of Dobbs county. 

The legislature met at Edenton, on 
the 4th of April, 1775, at the time when 
the delegates of the people assembled 
to appoint members of the congress, 
many of the delegates being also mem- 
bers of the legislature, and John Har- 
vey being chairman of both bodies. 



Governor Martin, in a long- speech, re- 
monstrated against the proceedings of 
the people, and the deputies replied in 
the plainest and most decided tone. 
The council, at the proposal of the gov- 
ernor, struck off the name of John Har- 
vey fi-om the list of justices of his coun- 
ty ; and he afterward collected cannon 
for the defence of his palace, endeav- 
ored to enlist the Highlanders and oth- 
ers in the west to take part with him, 
and wrote a letter to General Gage, at 
Boston, for arms and ammunition, which 
was intercepted. But the committees 
of safety were active throughout the 
colony, and that of Newbei'n took away 
the governor's cannon, and drove him, 
in fear, to take refuge in Fort Johnson. 

A dangerous plot was discovered on 
the evening of July 7th, for a massacre 
of the people on Tar river, by their ne- 
groes, on the following day, and many 
of the latter were found armed. The 
people of Wilmington prepared to seize 
tlie arms, &c., at Fort Johnson, but found 
the governor had embarked with them 
on board the sloop-of-war Cruizer. They 
then burned the fort, headed by John 
Ashe, who had resigned his commission 
as militia colonel of New Hanover. 

The congress authorized the levy of 
1,000 men, in North Carolina, if neces- 
sary, to be regarded as part of an Amer- 
ican army ; the 20th of July was kept 
as a day of fasting and prayer, and the 
provincial congress met August 20th, to 
the number of 184 members ; while the 
governor issued a proclamation, offering 
pardons &c. ; 1,000 troops were raised, 
and 400 placed in Wilmington, the first 
regiment under James Moore, and the 
other under Robert Rowe, and 150,000 
dollars was emitted in bills of credit, to 
be redeemed by a poll-tax of nine years, 
to commence in 1777. A battalion of 
ten companies of fifty minute-men, was 
ordered to be raised in each district. 
The congress also adopted an address 
to the inhabitants of the British empire, 
drawn up, it is said, by William Hooper. 
Other arrangements were made for de- 
fence. 

On the 19th of April, 1775, a com- 
mittee, appointed by the captains of mi- 
litia of Mecklenburg county, met at Char- 



lotte, and while in session, received news 
of the battle of Lexington, when, after 
hearing addresses from some of the mem- 
bers, they all cried out, " Let us be in- 
dependent!" and Dr. Ephraim Brevard 
reported resolutions declaring them- 
selves " a free and independent people." 
They were forwarded to the congress 
at Philadelphia, but the pi-esident said 
it would be premature to present them. 

Governor Martin now sent emissaries 
to the regulators and the Highlanders 
in the southern counties, and a General 
M'Donald, to induce them to adhere to 
the royal cause ; to counteract which, 
clergymen were sent to defeat his efforts 
to deceive them. Lord Dunmore of Vir- 
ginia at the same time marched for the 
northern counties, with 120 regular 
troops, and some tories and negroes. 
He intrenched himself at the great 
bridge, and invited slaves to join him; 
but he was attacked by Lieut. Colonel 
Scott, while Lieutenant Tibbs, with his 
boat-guard, six miles off, was attacked by 
royal troops, which he repulsed. 

General M'Donald, with 1,500 men, 
offered terms to Colonel Moore, en- 
camped on Rocky river, and after some 
time passed him by a rapid march, but 
was defeated by Colonel Caswell near 
Wilmington, and made prisoner. 

In May, 1776, Sir Peter Parker's ex- 
pedition of about 30 vessels reached 
Cape Fear river, and on the 12th, Gen- 
erals Clinton and Cornwallis landed at 
General Howe's plantation in the coun- 
ty of Brunswick, with 900 men, but 
failed in their object, which was to sur- 
prise Major Davis at Ostin's mills, for a 
sentinel on the shore gave the alarm, 
they were fired upon while crossing the 
causeway, and accomplished nothing but 
the destruction of the mills, and the 
beating, stabbing, and shooting of three 
women who fell into their power. They 
returned on board, with the loss of sev- 
eral men. The expedition failed, in 
consequence of the universal patriotism 
of the people, the defeat of M'Donald, 
and the refusal of the regulators to co- 
operate. After waiting in vain for their 
friends on shore, until they were obliged 
to kill several horses for food, they sailed 
on the 29th of May for Charleston. 



358 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



The constitution of the state was 
adopted in December, 1776, and in 1835 
was revised. There are 35 senators, 
and 120 members of the house of com- 
mons, who are elected once in two years, 
as is the governor. The houses elect 
an executive council of seven, for two 
years, and the judges of the supreme 
court, to act during good behavior. The 
attorney-general is appointed by the 
legislature for four years. All white 
males, 21 years of age, inhabitants of the 
state for 12 months, are allowed to vote, 
except for senators, for which a freehold 
of 50 acres of land is necessary. The 
legislature meets twice a year at Raleigh. 

Little as the lower parts of North 
Carolina afford of variety, either in sur- 
face, soil, or natural productions, there 
is a region in the west, which vies with 
the most picturesque portions of the 
Union in rudeness and sublimity. The 
mountain region comprehends some of 
the highest land this side of the Rocky 
mountains, and towers far above the 
cominon table-land of the western coun- 
ties. The latter is about 1,800 feet above 
the ocean, while Grandfather mountain 
is 5,556 feet, Roan mountain 6,038, and 
Black mountain 6,476 : a little more than 
the reported height of Mount Washing- 
ton, the loftiest peak of the White hills 
of New Hampshire. 

The rivers, in the upper parts of their 
courses, wind through some pleasing 
and striking scenes ; and in their lower 
parts, several are accessible to vessels, 
and now visited by steamboats. 

Near the middle of the state, passes 
the boundary between the high and the 
low lands; and this line, which extends 
through several other adjacent states, is 
connected with some peculiarities of 
great importance. East of it extends 
the broad and sandy level to the seacoast, 
through which the rivers flow with a slow 
and uniform course, whose head-waters 
come through the high, cool, and more 
healthful region west of it, with a descent 
which precludes navigation. The occu- 
pations of the people, and the state of 
society, differ considerably in those two 
parts of the state, as well as the native 
products of the soil, and the objects of 
culture and of export. Near that line, 



also, are the gold mines, which, a few 
yeai's since, began to excite much atten- 
tion, and which are still wrought with 
some success. 

The peculiar features of the coast of 
North Carolina, render it the scene of 
frequent shipwrecks, and of consequent 
sufferings to crews and passengers. The 
land is so level and low, as to render it 
difficult of discovery from a distance, 
except in clear weather; and the great- 
est desolation and solitude generally pre- 
vail there, which, with the difficulty of 
crossing the sounds that form so large 
a part of the eastern boundary of the 
state, often render the situation of un- 
fortunate mariners almost desperate, 
even after they have escaped the perils 
of the sea, before they can obtain I'elief 
from the land. The temptation offered 
by the exposure of property thrown on 
shore by the waves, has too often led 
the solitary, ignorant, and indigent in- 
habitants, in some places, to theft and 
inhumanity : but such acts have been rare 
of late years, and instances of hospital- 
ity and kindness are much more common. 

In some of the poorest parts of the 
low country, a habit prevails to a con- 
siderable extent, which is at once un- 
natural and injurious: clay-eating. A I 
species of fine clay is found, which many | 
learn to eat while young; and the prac- j 
tice leads to the formation of an invet- | 
erate habit, which at length produces a 
peculiar diseased and almost idiotic ap- 
pearance and dulness of mind, with se- 
rious injury to the health, often termina- 
ting in premature death. 

The Dismal swamp, lying partly in 
Virginia and partly in this state, renders 
a large tract in its northeastern corner 
uninhabitable, and almost entirely use- 
less. It lies nearly on a level with the 
ocean, and presents only a dreary and 
repulsive wilderness of cypress, and oth- 
er trees and plants able to live in water 
or marshy soil, with patches of some- 
what drier land here and there, rising 
from the immense morasses, and a 
large pond in the middle called the Lake 
of the Dismal swamp. The whole tract 
is 22 miles in length, and it connects 
the waters of Albemarle sound with 
Chesapeake bay. Thei'e is no passage 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



359 



through it, except the canal which has 
been cut from Virginia, to- bring the 
produce of that part of the state to Nor- 
folk. It is a work of considerable im- 
portance and value : but a more unat- 
tractive region can hardly be imagined, 
than that through which it passes. 

The Gold Mi?ies. — According to tra- 
ditions in some parts of the gold regions 
(which may embrace a tract of a thou- 
sand square miles), that precious metal 
has been found from early times, and 
sometimes in large masses. It now oc- 
curs in small lumps and gi-ains, down to 
minute points, invisible even to the mi- 
croscope ; for the auriferous quartz often 
yields a considerable quantity when sub- 
mitted to the separating process, even 
when no indication of its presence can 
be detected by the highest magnifiers. 

The books of the U. S. mint first re- 
cord the receiving of gold from North 
Carolina in the year 1S14, when 11,000 
dollars' worth was obtained. Between 
that time and 1824, an annual average 
of only $2,500 was received; in 1825, 
S17,000; 1826, $20,000; 1827, $21,000; 
1828, nearly $46,000; and 1829, $128,- 
000. The best gold-washings (as depos- 
ites in sand are called), are in the coun- 
ties of Burke and Rutherford. The 
miners believe that streams of water 
formerly flowed where the gold is now 
found in this condition. The richest 
mines, properly so called, where the 
metal is found in rocks and stones, are 
in Mecklenburg, Rowan, Davidson, and 
Cabarras counties. There the particles 
are usually invisible to the naked eye, 
and are separated by the aid of quick- 
silver. The best veins have a dip of 45 
degrees to the horizon, and are fi-om a 
few inches in thickness to several feet. 
The process of obtaining it pure is la- 
borious, tedious, and expensive. In 
some places excavations have been made 
120 feet deep. 

The stones are beaten to fine dust, 
either by common hammers, or by 
sledges moved by steam, and the mass 
is then placed in wooden troughs, called 
rockers, with a quantity of quicksilver, 
and a small stream of water is made to 
flow in, while the troughs are kept in 
continual gentle motion. The quicksil- 



ver readily combines or amalgamates 
with gold when brought into contact with 
it, and after this process has been kept up 
for a time, a lump of the united metals 
is taken out, and pressed in a deerskin 
bag, through the pores of which the 
quicksilver is forced in minute globules, 
while the gold is left behind in a state of 
purity. The separation is effected at 
some foreign gold mines by heat, which 
distils over the quicksilver. 

During the height of the gold specu- 
lations, 6,000 persons were employed by 
one company, and it was supposed that 
20,000 were occupied in the business in 
all parts of the gold counties. 

The annual product of gold was once 
estimated as high as $100,000 a week, or 
at the rate of five millions annually. The 
chief part of the laborers were Germans, 
Swedes, and other foreigners, speaking 
not less than thirteen different languages, 
and most of the gold was exported to 
Europe. The village of Charlotte, in 
Mecklenburg county, which is near one 
of the largest mines, experienced a sud- 
den growth and a great increase of busi- 
ness : but the influence of mining, as 
carried on in the state generally, has not 
been favorable to the moral interests of 
the people. 

In the course of the excavations, evi- 
dences have been found of former mining 
operations, on the same gi'ound. Many 
pieces of machinery have been discov- 
ered, and crucibles, of considerable size, 
and, in the opinion of some of the mi- 
ners, of superior qualities to the best 
Hessian crucibles of the present day. 

Internal Improiiements. — Exertions 
have been made to improve the very de- 
fective channels of trade in this state, 
and to prevent the products fi'om being 
carried to the porte of South Carolina 
and Virginia. In 1815, an extensive 
system of canals and roads was planned, 
and much expense has been incurred in 
connecting the principal rivers by canals, 
the draining of marshes, &c. Railroads 
have since been constructed, which add 
much to the prosperity of the state. 

Education. — The institutions for edu- 
cation have been much increased since 
the year 1804, when there were only two 
academies. They are now established 



360 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



in difTerent parts of the state ; and the 
university of North Carolina, at Chapel 
Hill, 28 miles from Raleigh, is a respec- 
table and flourishing institution. 

Religious Denominations. — The bap- 
tists are most numerous, and the meth- 
odists the next. After these are the 
presbyterians, Lutherans, episcopalians, 
united brethren, and friends. 

The Manufacture of Tar and Turpen- 
tine, — The following description of the 
process of making tar and turpentine, 
we copy from a letter from a traveller in 
the South, which appeared in a late news- 
paper : — 

" This turpentinebusiness has become, 
within the last two years, a very lucra- 
tive one indeed. The boundless forests 
of fir which cover North Carolina, offer 
material to the enterprising for a couple 
of centuries to come. The forests can 
be purchased for a dollar an acre. Some 
farms have been sold for ten cents an 
acre ! and the highest I have heard did 
not exceed two dollars. 

" Many speculators have latterly en- 
tered into this turpentine manufacture. 
One negro man will collect 200 barrels 
in a season, which will sell for about 
$800 ; about $100 will feed and clothe 
the negro; thus there is a pretty full 
margin of profit for the capital embarked 
in the land and negroes. It is better by 
far than cotton-raising — many cotton 
planters are going into it, and the expan- 
sion of manufactures and arts, at home 
and abroad, keeps pace with the in- 
creased number of those who are enter- 
ing into this profitable business. 

"For the benefit of those who have 
never been in a turpentine country, I 
may describe the process of gathering 
and distilling this subtle spirit. The 
trees are cupped in the spring; about 
eighteen inches square of the bark is 
peeled of; the cupping is made by one 
or two cuts of an axe, of peculiar shape, 
near the root. In the summer and fall 
the turpentine oozes out through this 
vent. The negro comes round from tree 
to tree, and gathers this oozed matter 
into his bucket. The trees are contin- 
ually exuding during the season. The 
ensuing year they are cut a little higher 
than before, when a new crop is ob- 



tained. The process may be repeated 
for fives, or- six years, cutting higher up 
the trunk each year; after which the 
trees are cut down and chopped inlo 
short logs, and piled together in peculiar 
heaps, called "kilns," when a slow fire 
is put under the heap, and thus pitch 
and tar are obtained from the heated 
pile. The fatty matter, or raw turpen- 
tine, is packed into barrels — brought to 
the distilleries, boiled and evaporated 
in the common way in which spirit is 
extracted in the alcohol distilleries, the 
steam passing through a large worm or 
refrigerator, which is set in an immense 
vat of cold water. The surface of the 
water, being the hottest, passes oflf, while 
the attendant keeps pumping cold water 
through a pipe that forces it to the bot- 
tom, causing the hot water, created on 
the surface, to pass oflf. The steam 
comes out in spirits of turpentine below, 
and is barrelled tightly and sent to all 
the markets of the world, and the resi- 
due is rosin. 

" North Carolinasendsoutan immense 
quantity of Indian corn, staves, turpen- 
tine, pitch, tar, and rosin, besides which, 
she is beginning to manufacture cotton 
and woollens." 

Raleigh, the seat of government, 
is situated nearly in the centre of the 
state, 6 miles distant from the river 
Neuse, 164 southwest from Richmond, 
and 288 southwest from Washington. 
It was named in honor of that conspic- 
uous statesman of Queen Elizabeth, who 
makes so interesting a figure in the his- 
tory of her reign, and displayed so much 
zeal in prosecuting discoveries, and 
planting protestant colonies in this part 
of America. 

Raleigh is a small town, containing 
only about 3,000 inhabitants, but it is 
pleasantly situated, and laid out with 
taste, having a square of ten acres in 
the centre, called Union square, from 
which the four principal streets, of a 
fine breadth, viz., 99 feet, diverge at 
right angles. Between these are four 
smaller squares of four acres each. 
There are two academies, and several 
otner public buildings. The capitol, 
which was destroyed by fire several 
years ago, contained the finest and most 



362 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP NORTH CAROLINA. 



valuable piece of sculpture ever seen in 
America: a statue of Washington, by 
Canova. With a degree of taste and 
patriotic spirit which are highly credit- 
able to the state, the legislature em- 
ployed that greatest of modem sculp- 
tors to execute the noble work, on which 
he was employed as early as 1819. It 
was placed in the capitol, and excited 
general admiration, being made of the 
finest Carrara marble, in a dignified sit- 
ting posture, with an expression and 
features much like those of the Father of 
his country. The costume was that of 
a Roman senator. In the destruction 
of the statehouse, this most valuable of 
its contents was ruined; but although it 
can never be replaced, the history of it 
will reflect lasting honor upon the char- 
acter of the state. 

The old statehouse (which is repre- 
sented in our engraving) was a well- 
proportioned edifice, of plain architec- 
ture, and consisted of a main building 
and a projection at the centre, with a 
basement of hewn stone, and a front of 
four Ionic half-columns, while a large 
dome, with a cupola, rose from the mid- 
dle of the roof. A broad yard in front, 
offered a fine approach ; and the building 
was of sufficient size to afford large halls 
for the legislature, and various offices, 
and other appropriate apartments for 
public purposes. 

The present statehouse is of granite, 
on the plan of the celebrated temple of 
Minerva at Athens, called the Parthe- 
non, 166 feet in length, 90 in breadth, 
with a range of noble columns of gran- 
ite, 30 feet high, and five and a half in 
diaiTjeter. 

The other public buildings are the 
courthouse, the governor's house, five 
churches, four academies, two banks, 
and a theatre. 

Wake Forest College is at Forestville, 
15 miles from Raleigh. It has three 
professorships, and a library of 4,700 
volumes, and was founded in 1838. The 
number of pupils is yet small. 

Edcnton is a small town, situated on 
the bay at the mouth of Chouan river, 
and contains a handsome courthouse, two 
churches, an academy, and a bank, with 
a population of about 1,600. Stage- 



coaches go to Norfolk three times a 
week, distant 86 miles. 

Tarhorough stands on the south side 
of Tar river, and contains a courthouse, 
two churches, a bank, and an academy, 
with about 800 inhabitants. Stage- 
coaches go every other day to Raleigh 
and Washington. 

Warrenton, 62 miles northeast from 
Raleigh, is a small town, containing 
about 800 inhabitants, now fi-eqiiently 
visited on account of its proximity to a 
favorite watering-place, which is resort- 
ed to, in the warm season, by many trav- 
ellers. This is the 

Sliocco White Sulphur Springs, 12 
miles from Warrenton, with which there 
is a daily communication by stage-coach- 
es. The water is charged with sulphur- 
etted hydrogen and carbonic acid gases, 
and contains the sulphates of lime and 
magnesia, oxyde of iron, muriate of soda, 
and carbonate of lime, and is recom- 
mended for diseases of the skin and the 
liver. 

Wilmington. — This is the principal 
town in the state for trade and most oth- 
er kinds of business. It contains a pop- 
ulation of about 12,000, of whom 9,000 
are whites. It stands on the eastern 
bank of Cape Fear river, just below the 
confluence of the two branches, 13 miles 
from the ocean, at the head of naviga- 
tion for vessels of 300 tons, although 
steamboats go up to Fayetteville a part 
of the year, 120 miles. The town is 
chiefly built on four streets, and in some 
parts shows some of the ruins caused by 
several destructive fires, from which it 
has successively suffered. The houses 
are built of pitch pine, which renders it 
difficult to arrest the progress of the 
flames when once enkindled. Much 
lumber is brought down the river, and 
sawed up by steam-mills erected on the 
shore, where vessels receive their freight 
for the West Indies, and some of the 
northern ports. The railroad has in- 
creased the population in six years, about 
6,000. 

Great quantities of turpentine, tar, &:c., 
are also brought here from the country. 
Considerable quantities of spirits of tur- 
pentine are made, about twenty man- 
ufactoiies having been recently erected. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



363 



We must conclude our sketch of North 
Carolina with a brief account of one of 
the most courageous acts in the his- 
tory of the revolutionary war in this 
state. 

In Ramsay's history of South Carolina, 
mention is made of an engagement, 
which took place at Williams' planta- 
tion, in the upper part of South CaroUna, 
on the 12th of July, 1780, between " a 
part of the corps commanded by Col. 
Sumter," and a detachment of British 
troops and tories under the command 
of Captain Huck. The historian does 
not inform us, however, who commanded 
this "party'^ from the corps of Col. 
Sumter, nor are we told by him the 
particulars of this brilliant little engage- 
ment, which was the first check given 
to the royal forces after landing in 
South Carolina on the 11th of February, 
1780. The following account of it is 
from the speech of Col. W. C. Beatty 
of Yorkville, delivered on the anniver- 
sary of the battle, in 1839. 

Captain Christian Huyck was said to 
be a native of Philadelphia. He bore 
the commission of a captain in the Brit- 
ish army and was distinguished for his 
profanity and bloody deeds in the upper 
part of South Carolina. His enmity to 
the presbyterians displayed itself in 
burning the library and dwelling-house 
of their clergyman, Mr. Linyman. At 
the moment of his attack and defeat, "a 
number of women," says Dr. Ramsay, 
"were on their knees, vainly soliciting 
his mercy, in behalf of their families and 
property." He had been despatched 
by Col. Turnbull, the commander of the 
British forces at Rocky Mount, with 
the following orders : " You are hereby 
ordered, with the cavaliy under your 
command, to proceed to the frontier of 
the province, collecting all the royal 
militia with you in your march, and 
with said force to push the rebels, as 
far as you may deem convenient." 

Previous to the issuing of the above 
order. Colonel Bratton, Major Wynn, 
and Captain M'Clure, had attacked and 
defeated a body of tories assembled at 
Mobley's meetinghouse in Fairfield dis- 
trict. This gallant adventure on the 
part of a few bold whigs, had induced 



Col. Turnbull to send Captain Huyck 
into York district to chastise the rebels 
— " push them as far as he might deem 
convenient." " The evening before his 
defeat he arrived at the house of Col. 
Bratton and demanded of Mrs. Bratton 
where her husband was. She replied 
that he was in Sumter's army. He 
then pioposed to her, if she would get 
her husband to come in and join the 
royalists, he should have a commission 
in the British service. Mrs. Bratton 
replied with heroic firmness that she 
preferred her husband's remaining and 
dying in the army of his counti-y." For 
this bold and spirited reply, a soldier, 
under the command of Huyck, attempt- 
ed her life, and was prevented executing 
his purpose by the interference of an 
officer second in command. She was 
then ordered to prepare supper for Cap- 
tain Huyck and his officers. While 
doing so, the idea occurred to her that 
"she might play," in the language of 
Col. Beatty, " a Roman's part and take 
a deadly revenge on the enemies of her 
country." She had poison in the house 
and could mix it with the food. But a 
moment's reflection taught her that this 
food might fall into the possession of 
the whigs, who were closely watching 
the footsteps of the enemy. Her own 
brave husband might, by some mishap, 
be the victim of her treachery, instead 
of his enemies. The idea was quickly 
abandoned. 

Huck and his officers slept in William- . 
son's house the night preceding the 
battle. His troops lay encamped around 
it. A road enclosed in a lane passed 
the door, and sentinels were posted along 
the road. The guard kept negligent 
watch, and the troops lay in fancied 
security — undreaming of to-morrow's 
scenes — unknowing that they were al- 
ready marked for defeat and death. On 
that same day. Col. Bratton, with one 
hundred and twenty-five men, principally 
his neighbors, left Mecklenburg county. 
North Carolina, under the conviction 
that some royal force, would shortly visit 
their neitjhborhood to aveno^e the defeat 
of the tories at Mobley's meetinghouse. 
During the march, about fifty of the 
men dropped off, and thus only seventy- 



364 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA. 



five were left to attack the enemy, in- 
stead of one hundred and thirty-three, 
as stated in the history of CaroHna. 
With this force, Col. Bratton arrived 
that night near their encampment. In- 
telligence of the enemy had passed up, 
and their number, had been received 
during the day. After concealing their 
horses in a swamp, the whigs impatient- 
ly awaited the dawn of day, to commence 
the attack. At length it came, and with 
it victoiy. One half of the men, led by 
Crl. Bratton and Capt. Moffit, came up 
th'? lane, while the other half, command- 
ed by Capt. M'Clure, of Chester, a 
brave and daring officer, were sent round 
to the head of the lane. Thus the enemy 
were enclosed, speedily routed and con- 
quered. When the attack commenced, 
Huck and his officers were in bed, and 
were aroused from their slumbers by the 
roar of the American guns. The captain 
quickly mounted his horse and attempted 
to rally his men. This he several times 
effi?cted, but all his efforts were unavail- 
ing — the determined spii'it of the whigs 
carried all before them — and as soon as 
Huck fell, his men threw down their 
arms and fled. Huck, Col. Ferguson 
of the British army, and thirty-five or 
forty men, lay dead on the field or were 
wounded unto death. How many per- 
ished in the woods is not known — the 
rest escaped. Of the whigs, only one 
was killed — whose name was Campbell, 
as stated by Col. Gill. The rest, though 
in the thickest and hottest of the fight, 
escaped unhurt, to fight other battles 
and do further service in the cause of 
their beloved country. This battle is 
said to have lasted one hour. 

This victory was not only brilliant and 
gloi'ious in itself, but it had the most 
salutary and important effect on the des- 
tinies of the state. It was the first time 
since the fall of Charleston, that any 
power dared to meet the hitherto victo- 
rious enemy. This victory reanimated 
the drooping spirits of the country. The 
citizens were buoyed up with new life 
and fresh hopes. It brought them con- 
fidence, and taught the enemy to dread 
the vengeance of freemen, fighting for 
their liberties, tlieir lives, and domestic 
altai-s. It had the direct and immediate 



effect of embodying the whigs, and in a 
few days afterward, six hundred new 
troops joined the army of Sumter. Thus 
reinforced, on the thirtieth of the same 
month, Gen. Sumter made a spirited at- 
tack on the British forces at Rocky 
Mount, and in eight days afterward 
gained a complete victory over the en- 
emy at Hanging Rock. 

After the engagement was over, the 
officer who had saved the life of Mrs. 
Bratton the evening before, was about 
being put to death by the whigs. He 
asked the favor of being carried into the 
presence of Mrs. Bratton, who immedi- 
ately recognised him, related her obli- 
gation to him, and implori^l that his life 
might be spared, which was done. Thus 
she had an opportunity of proving that 
she was as grateful in the hour of tri- 
umph, as she had been bold and spirited 
in the time of danger. 

Col. W. Bratton, who was chief in 
command on the occasion, was a gallant 
officer throughout the American revolu- 
tion. He was in the battles fought at 
Guildford courthouse. Hanging Rock, 
Blackstocks, Rowsam's mills, and Mob- 
ley's meetinghouse, beside the one al- 
ready recounted. In all of these engage- 
ments, he fought with great spirit, cour- 
age, and determined bravery. In the 
darkest period of his country's distress, 
he stood firm in her cause, and by his 
influence and example, encouraged and 
cheered on his whig neighboi's, and 
"bid thein hope for brighter and better 
days." As an evidence of his uncom- 
mon daring, it is said, that on the night 
before the battle at Williamson's, he re- 
connoitred the encampment and ad- 
vanced entirely within their line of sen- 
tinels. By this bold adventure, he ac- 
quired information which greatly con- 
tributed to the victory which they gained. 

The distinction and honor of having 
killed the famous Captain Huck, or 
Huyck, as his name was more properly 
written, belonged to John Carroll, who 
greatly distinguished himself in many 
engagements by his extraordinary bold- 
ness and daring. Huck was shot while 
endeavoring to rally his men. This 
battleground is now known as Brattons- 
ville. 




This state, although presenting 
many of the leading features which 
characterize North Carolina, enjoys 
some counterbalancing- advantao-es, 
or much importance to commerce and 
agriculture. There is a good harbor 
at Charleston, and several of the riv- 
ers and inlets along the coast are 
more accessible, and navigable to a 
greater distance. The lowland which 
borders the ocean has many tracts of 
good soil, among which are numerous 
rice-fields. The line between the 
high and the low lands is still more 
marked than in North Carolina, in its 
influence on trade and the position of 
towns. Rice and cotton in the low grounds, and cotton and grain in the middle 
regions, and apples and other northern plants in the mountains, mark their ap- 
propriate sections, while maize yields abundantly in all parts. The oak and palm, 
as well as the pine and walnut, are prevailing native trees, and many others have 
been introduced. 

A few of the events in the early history of South Carolina have been given in 
the preceding pages, in speaking of the first settlements of North Carolina, with 
which it was for a time connected. Oyster Point, near Charleston, was first occu- 
pied by a colony under William Sayle, who, having made a survey of the coast 
some years previously, arrived on the coast in 1670, and after several changes of 
place, finally chose the spot at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper rivers, 
near that now covered by the large and flourishing city of Charleston, The 
number of the colonists was soon increased, as we have before I'emarked, and the 
name of South Carolina was confeiTed on the new settlement. 



In 1674, Joseph West was elected 
governor, and exercised the chief author- 
ity for several years, with much ability. 
The principal offices were filled by the 
cavaliers, although the puritans were in 
greater numbers; and considerable addi- 
tions were soon made by the arrival of 
English dissenters and protestants, driv- 
en by religious intolerance from several 
Roman catholic countries. 

The site of the present flourishing 
city of Charleston, was first occupied 
in 1673, by a number of Dutchmen from 
the New Netherlands, now New York, 
and, the advantages of its situation be- 
coming at length obvious, it was finally 
taken by the colonists at Oyster Point. 

The year 1680 was imfortunately sig- 
nalized by the first Indian war. A con- 
siderable number of prisoners were ta- 
ken, who were sold as slaves by the gov- 
ernor to West India planters ; for which 
inhuman policy he was removed by the 
proprietors, in 1683, and Governor Mor- 
ton was appointed his successor. An 
Irish and a Scotch colony came out the 
same year. The latter at first settled on 
Port Royal island, but were soon driven 
to Charleston by fear of the Spaniards 
at St. Augustine. They afterward re- 
turned, when their settlement was laid 
waste in 1686. Governors West, Kyrle, 
Quarry, and Morton, in turn succeeded to 
the chief-magistracy, but in the short 
space of three years, gave place to Col- 
leton, in 1686. The inhuman practice of 
kidnapping and selling Indians was al- 
lowed, to the discredit of the colony. 

A large and valuable addition was 
made to the colony at this time, by the 
arrival of many French Huguenot fam- 
ilies, who, having been depi'ived of the 
protection of the laws in their native 
country, by the revocation of the edict 
of Nantes, sought an asylum in the new 
world. Some of the principal families 
of South Carolina at the present day, 
bear the names of some of those refu- 
gees ; and there, as elsewhere, they have 
done honor to their principles, and the 
land of their adoption, by the characters 
they have sustained in the country of 
their choice. 

One chief source of difficulty between 
the colonies of South, as well as North 



Carolina, and their governors, had been 
the payment of quit-rents to the propri- 
etors ; and Colleton was deposed, in 
1687, in consequence of his attempt to 
enforce it. After a period of anarchy, 
Seth Sothel assumed the chief-magis- 
tracy, in the character of a friend of the 
people, who unwisely trusted him after 
his misconduct in the northern colony. 
They soon however found it necessary 
to banish him, and elected in his place 
Ludwell, who had succeeded him in 
North Carolina. 

The introduction of rice into the col- 
ony, an event of particular interest, took 
place during the administration of Gov- 
ernor Smith, the successor of Ludwell. 
A vessel from Madagascar stopped at 
Charleston, and the captain presented a 
bag of that grain to the governor, who 
distributed it among his friends, and the 
culture of that valuable staple was thus 
commenced, with results most important 
to agriculture and commerce. 

Governor Blake, a dissenter (son of 
Admiral Blake), with great liberality, 
sustained religious liberty; but after his 
death, in 1700, Governor Moore, sus- 
tained by Lord Granville, one of the 
proprietors, by intrigue induced the as- 
sembly to pass a bill establishing epis- 
copacy, and thus introduced religious 
persecution. The majority of the people 
being dissenters, many of them pi-epared 
to leave the colony; but the house of 
lords having voted against the law, and 
Queen Anne having annulled it, the 
threatened evil to the colony was pre- 
vented. 

In 1702, England being at war with 
Spain, Governor Moore undertook a wild 
expedition against St. Augustine, and 
sailed from Port Royal with a part of 
the force raised. Colonel Daniel and 
his enlisted Indians, took and robbed 
the town : but, while the gbvernor was 
waiting for cannon to batter the fortress, 
into which the enemy had retired, two 
Spanish ships appeared, and he made a 
hasty retreat. To meet the expense of 
this expedition, six thousand pounds, 
the first paper-money, was emitted in 
Carolina, which depreciated after a few 
years. 

A happy termination was at length 



368 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 



put to the old difficulties between the 
people and the proprietors, by the wise, 
moderate, and coiiciliatory policy of 
Archdale, a quaker, who arrived from 
England in 1695, with authority to bring 
the matter to a close ; he was succeeded 
in the government by Blake ; but from 
his death, in 1700, under Governors 
Moore and Johnson, the colony was dis- 
tracted by wars with the Indians and 
Spaniards. In 1703, the savages com- 
menced hostilities, instigated by the 
Spaniards, but were conquered by Gov. 
^loore, who destroyed about 800. In 
1706, the Spaniards made a new attack 
upon Charleston, but were unsuccessful, 
and retired with much loss; while the 
colony failed in an attempt on St. Au- 
gustine. 

The Tuscarora and Cosee Indians as- 
saulted the western settlements in 1712. 

A great advantage was gained over 
them by Col. Barnell, and a decisive vic- 
tory by Col. Monro soon after, both of 
them being aided by large bodies of 
friendly Indians. The Tuscaroras were 
so discouraged, that they migrated to 
the north, in 1713, and settled on lands 
granted them by their ancient allies, the 
celebrated Five Nations, or Iroquois of 
the present state of New York; with 
whom they were incorporated, as the 
sixth member of the confederacy. They 
are now in a state of much improvement, 
under the influence of missionaries, by 
means of schools and churches ; and 
many of them are respectable farmers. 
(See Schoolcraft's Census of the N. Y. 
Indians, 1846.) Their residence is a 
few miles from the falls of Niagara. 

After the departure of the Tuscaroras, 
the other Indians proposed terms of 
peace with South Carolina, and never 
again caused any disturbance. 

The close of the wars with the sava- 
ges, formed an epoch quite important 
in the histories of both of the Carolinas. 
It was not till that time that the nature 
of the interior lands became known. 
The fear of Indians being passed, and 
no obstacle now existing to the estab- 
lishing of settlements inland, consider- 
able numbers of cohmists came from 
Pennsylvania, and other northern parts, 
to occupy them. The natur© of the 



country, and the character of the climate, 
combined to encourage a different sys- 
tem of agriculture ; and the state of so- 
ciety has naturally been much influenced 
by the circumstances which surrounded 
the people. Manual labor is not re- 
garded as intolerable or discreditable to 
the owners of the soil, who often go to 
the fields with their slaves, and work at 
their side. They do not demand so 
large a number of servants, to perform 
the work on an upland farm as on a low- 
land plantation, and more simjilicity and 
economy are obsei-ved in the style of 
living. 

Our limits do not allow us to give 
even so much as an outline of the French 
or revolutionary wars in this state. In 
the latter, the people suffered exceeding- 
ly fi'om the conflict of parties nearly 
equally divided, and the repeated prev- 
alence of the royal authority; as well as 
from the want of power or firmness 
among the friends of the country. 
Charleston was once saved from capture, 
by the bravery of a few men in Fort 
Moultrie. Marauding parties were oc- 
casionally sent out under Tarlton and 
others, from that city, when it afterward 
lay in the power of the British ; and 
these were repeatedly harassed or 
checked by small bands of patriots. 
Among the partisan leaders who became 
prominent and useftil in those trying 
times, was General Marion, who estab- 
lished a high character for skill and 
bravery, in a long course of irregular 
military operations in the interior. A 
characteristic anecdote is told of him, 
which does peculiar honor to the Amer- 
ican character. 

A young English officer, in wander- 
ing through the woods, unexpectedly 
found himself among the soldiers of 
Marion, and was kindly received by the 
generous outlaw, who hospitably invited 
him to partake of his fare. His food 
was of the plainest kind, and his lodging 
was upon the bare ground. The foi*- 
eigner, fascinated by the character of 
his host, remonstrated with him, in the 
most urgent terms, against the desperate 
and dangerous course of life in which 
he had engaged, offering to procure him 
a pardon and rewards, if he would join 



il. 



the party of the king. The soldier de- 
clined in the most spirited manner, de- 
claring that he would not exchange his 
poverty and humble fare, with his faith- 
fulness to his country's cause, for all 
that the king had to bestow. He then 
took leave of his new acquaintance, 
whom he allowed to retire without hin- 
derance. But it is related that the in- 
terview so far enlightened the mind of 
the young officer on the real nature of 
the American war, and so deeply affect- 
ed his heart, that he soon obtained leave 
to return to England, and took no further 
part in the contest. 

Two of the principal battles fought in 
this state, were at Columbia: one in 
1780, August 7, by Cxeneral Gates against 
Lord Cornwallis, and the other between 
General Greene and Lord Rawdon, 
April 23, 1781. A third was at the 
Cowpens. 

Such was the unsettled state of South 
Carolina during a great part of the war, 
that many cases occurred, in which men 
of d'»Terent classes changed from side 
to side, and many took the oath of alle- 
giance to the king, after having been 
for a while on the side of the I'evolution. 
In order to present, in a striking manner, 
some of the events of those disastrous 
times, with a picture or two of the 
scenes which they produced, we make 
the following abridgment of a history 
of "the Cunninghams of South Caro- 
lina," from the appendix to the second 
edition of the "Journal of Kirwen," by 
Mr. Ward. 

The first decided outbreak of the civil 
war, originated in the unjustifiable ar- 
rest and imprisonment of Robert Cun- 
ningham, in November, 1775, at Charles- 
ton. There he was destined to remain 
till the ensuing July, when the English 
having been .expelled from the country, 
the council of safety, deeming it prudent 
to try the effect of conciliatory measures, 
released him and the other state prison- 
ers, without any conditions whatever as 
to their after conduct. He repaired 
immediately to the headquarters of an 
army under the comman<l of General 
Williamson, which had been collected 
to repel a threatened invasion of the In- 
dians, and offered his services as a vol- 



unteer. To prevent a mutiny in the 
camp, Williamson was obliged to de- 
cline his proffered services. 

Afler this time, till the year 1780, no 
public mention is made of any of the 
Cunninghams. They had all removed 
to the city of Charleston, where they 
lived quietly attending to their private 
affairs. 

In the spring of 1780, Charleston 
capitulated to Clinton, and nearly the 
whole of South Carolina returned to 
their allegiance. In December of this 
year, Patrick Cunningham was made 
colonel of the Little river regiment, and 
he seems to have had superintendence 
over some of the confiscated estates. 
Robert was made a brigadier-general in 
the British service, and sent to command 
a fort about seventeen miles from " Nine- 
ty-six," called Williams' fort, with a gar- 
rison of 150 men. After the surprise 
and slaughter at Hammond's store, 
which was about thirty miles distant, 
many of the fugitives arrived, on the 
evening of the same day, at Fort Wil- 
liams, on their way to " Ninety-six," the 
stronghold of the British in the country. 
They reported that Washington was at 
Hammond's store, having a large force 
under him, with which he intended to 
mai'ch directly on "Ninety-six," taking 
Fort Williams on his way. These re- 
ports were confirmed by many arrivals 
of wounded men and stragglers during 
the night, and General Cunningham de- 
termined to retreat upon "Ninety-six," 
so as to increase the force of the garri- 
son, while there was yet tirne to carry 
oft' as much arms and ammunition as 
each man could bear, rather than, l>y a 
fruitless opposition to an overwhelming 
force, not only lose a// his military stores, 
but cause also a useless sacrifice of hu- 
man life. They accordingly marched 
the next morning, leaving only a few 
men to take care of such of the sick 
and wounded as were unable to go with 
them. 

In July, 1781, when Lord Rawdon 
returned to "Ninety-six," from a short 
pursuit of General Nathaniel Greene, 
whom he had forced temporarily to re- 
treat, he called the chief of the loyalists 
together, explained to them the neces- 



24 



370 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 



sity of abandoning the district, and ad- 
vised them all to retreat within lines 
which the British troops were able to 
maintain. Every preparation was ac- 
cordingly made by Colonel Cruger for 
immediate departure. Half of all the 
JSritish force was left with him to cover 
their retreat, which was commenced on 
the 8th of July. All would then have 
left, but for a letter addressed to them 
by General Greene, in which, declaring 
himself to be their protector, he prom- 
ise. 1 all who should remain his favor and 
support. Relying on these assurances, 
some were induced to remain, but soon 
had cause bitterly to regret their deter- 
mination. 

It would be in the highest degree un- 
just to impute bad faith to General 
Greene in this matter, but it was impos- 
sible for him to restrain his subordinates, 
and to guard against their excesses. 
But no sooner did he hear of them, than 
General Sumter was despatched to re- 
store order and capture the ringleaders; 
in the meantime, much mischief had 
been done, and many cruel and disgrace- 
ful outrages perpetrated. In Novem- 
ber, General Cunningham was sent with 
700 men into the neighborhood of Or- 
angeburg, where he encountered Gen- 
eral Sumter's hrigp^de of equal force. 
The latter was obliged to fall back, and 
met with some loss, in consequence of 
one of his officers having allowed him- 
self to be drawn into an ambuscade; he 
continued, however, to act as a check on 
Cunningham's further advance into the 
country. After the capitulation of 
Charleston, a great many wliigs renewed 
their oaths of allegiance to the king, and 
yet when success appeared to favor the 
whig cause, they reassumed arms against 
the British. Cornwallis issued orders 
that all such, when taken, should b*> put 
to death as rebels, who had forfeited 
their lives by breaking the oaths of feal- 
ty they had so short a time previously 
taken. Major William Cunningham, 
then an officer in the British service, 
was one of those who received these or- 
ders, and who executed them rigorously 
on all such offenders as fell into his 
power. 

After the retreat of the loyalists from 



" Ninety-six," in July, 1781, those who 
had been induced by General Greene's 
proclamations to remain, were treated 
with the greatest barbarity. Among 
the whigs who distinguished themselves 
by their cruelties toward these helpless 
tories, were a Colonel Hays, and a Mr. 
Turner. Complaints having been made 
to Major Cunningham, of injuries com- 
mitted by these men against the inno- 
cent wives and children of some of the 
soldiers of his corps, who had adhered 
to him in every danger, he did not hes- 
itate to leave the English camp at 
Charleston, and to pass into district 
"Ninety-six," with a party of not ex- 
ceeding one hundred and fifty men, for 
the purpose of inflicting punishment on 
those against whose inhumanity neif 
ther age nor sex had afforded any protec- 
tion. Both Turner and Hays occupied 
military " stations." Turner's was the 
first encountered. It was taken, and 
the men put to death. On their way to 
Hays' "station," some of the men, led 
on by one "Elmore," seizing the oppor- 
tunity of Cunningham's being at a con- 
siderable distance behind, proceeded to 
Captain Caldwell's house, and finding 
him at home, they killed him, and burned 
the house. When Cunningham came up, 
he regretted what his men had done, but 
it seems doubtful whether, even had he 
been present, he could have restrained 
them, bearing as they did, such deter- 
mined hatred toward their victim. The 
party then proceeded on their way to 
Hays' station. Col. Hays had been 
warned of his danger the night before, 
by a Captain Brooks, who sent an ex- 
press advising him to disband his men, 
and leave the ground instantly, as Cun- 
ningham was in the country, had taken 
Turner's station, and killed nineteen 
men. Hays, distrusting this informa- 
tion, as he had just returned from scour- 
ing that pait of the country, and had 
heard nothing of Cunningham, did not 
think fit to follow the advice, but merely 
sent oft" to another station for assistance 
in case of need. 

It was on a fine morning toward the 
end of November, when, at 10 o'clock, 
the party of loyalists, led on by Captain 
John Hood, rode up to the station at 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP SOUTH CAROLINA. 



371 



full gallop. This Hood was a very 
daring fellow. He went close to the 
piazza in front of the house, and called 
out in a loud voice, that "none should 
fire from within, or they should all be 
put to death." Those within, disre- 
garding this warning, fired through the 
openings, and killed one man. Major 
Cunningham arriving shortly afterward, 
sent a flag of truce with a written mes- 
sage, demanding "instant surrender," 
and promising, if they did so, " to spare 
all their lives," but declaring at the same 
time, that "if they should resist, and so 
cause the spilling of his men's blood, he 
wotild give them no quarter, but put 
them all to death." Col. Hays, trusting 
to receive a reinforcement before the 
station could be carried, refused to sur- 
render, and answered, "he should hold 
out to the last, at the risk of the lives of 
his whole party." After some shooting 
on both sides, Cunningham succeeded 
in setting fire to the "station," which 
was of wood, by means of a ramrod 
wrapped round with tow, dipped in 
pitch, and thrown in a blazing state on 
the roof Half-suffocated, Hays and his 
party at length surrendered at discretion. 
Cunningham immediately hanged Hays 
and another man called Daniel Williams 
on the pole of a fodder-stock, the former 
for his cruelty to women and children, 
and the latter for having murdered in 
cold blood his favorite follower, Thomas 
Ellison, whose death he had sworn to 
avenge. Before they were dead, the 
pole broke, and Cunningham, drawing 
his sword, slew them both with his own 
hand. Being told that Cook, the man 
who with Ritchie and Moore had 
whipped his brother to death, was among 
the prisoners, he ordered him out from 
the rest, and slew him with his sword. 

He then gave Jtermission to his men 
to do as they pleased with the rest. All 
who had rendered themselves obnoxious 
by acts of cruelty and plunder, were 
slain without mercy. The others were 
saved. Each of Cunningham's men 
singled out whomsoever among the pris- 
oners had been guilty of murdering any 
of his relatives, and killed him forthwith. 
The execution took place about sunset. 

At the affair of Turner's station, there 



was no surrender made, nor quarter 
asked, and of course such a party as 
Cunningham's could not burden them- 
selves with prisoners. At the time they 
were attacked, the people of that station 
were busy cutting up some beeves of 
which they had just plundered the tories. 
To conceal their occupation, they had 
fastened up blankets before the windows. 
The call for vengeance upon these ma- 
rauders, which had reached Cunningham 
and his followers in Charleston, received 
an additional impulse from learning their 
present employment. The house was 
surrounded, and the inmates cut down 
as they attempted to fly. Only one man 
escaped the general massaci'e. Seven 
were saved at Hays' station, and were 
next morning set free without terms or 
conditions. 

On their way back to Charleston, the 
party encountered one "Oliver Toles," 
famous for stealing tory cattle. Cun- 
ningham had him hanged with a thong 
cut from a tory cow's hide. 

By this time the country had become 
fiilly alarmed. Parties under Pickens, 
Leroy Hammond, &c., commenced a vig- 
orous pursuit, and before they arrived 
at Charleston, Ringtail's mettle was well 
tried. Seven fresh parties started in 
pursuit of Cunningham, one after the 
other, but Ringtail carried his master 
safe off from the whole of them. It was 
at the expense, however, of his own life, 
for he died twenty-three days after they 
reached the city, of fatigue, and the vio- 
lent exertions he had been forced to 
make. Major Cunningham, "Bloody 
Bill," "the heartless, unfeeling mon- 
ster," "the coldblooded demon," as they 
called him, wept like a child over his 
poor favorite and friend, as he was wont 
to term him. He had him buried with 
all the honors of war, the bells of Charles- 
ton were tolled and volleys were fired 
over the hero of many fights. 

When the English evacuated Charles- 
ton, Major Cunningham, instead of em- 
barking with them, chose to proceed to 
Florida by land, accompanied by five of 
his followers. One day having pitched 
his tent near the region of Greenville, 
in the fancied security of a deep wood, 
they laid aside their arms, unsaddled 



372 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 



their horses, and began to cook and get 
ready their dinner. In the midst of this 
interesting occupation, they were sud- 
denly interrupted by the unwelcome ap- 
pearance of a Captain Butler and twenty 
men of the revolutionary party. Taken 
thus by surprise, each man sprung as 
he was, without arms, on his unsaddled 
horse, and made off, as he best could. 
The tent, arms, and everything, except 
themselves and their barebacked horses, 
fell into the hands of the gallant captain 
and his band. The odds of twenty-one, 
well armed, to six unarmed men, was 
rather too great, even for Bloody Bill; 
so, thinking in this case that discretion 
was decidedly the better pait of valor, 
he and Captain Hood, wlio kept close 
to him, made off as fast as their horses' 
legs could carry them, and were soon 
beyond the reach of danger. 

He arrived safely in Florida, and af- 
terward went to England with General 
Cunningham. He was presented at 
couTt, and during the rest of his life, 
enjoyed the half-pay of a major in the 
British service. 

Cotton, the principal product of South 
Carolina, is of three kinds : the long- 
staple or black-seed, the short-staple, 
green-seed or upland, and the nankeen. 

The first of these is the most valuable 
kind of cotton, and is raised on the small, 
low, fertile islands, and on the immedi- 
ate coast, in South Carolina and Georgia. 
The fibres are much longer and finer 
than those of the other kinds, and it is 
highly prized for the manufacture of 
some of the finest fabrics, in Europe as 
well as in this country. 

The second kind is extensively culti- 
vated in the interior, and in much the 
greatest quantity: but the culture and 
supply were greatly restricted for many 
years, in consequence of the difficulty 
of separating the seeds, to which the 
fibres adhere very closely. There was 
no other way known to effect the neces- 
sary separation, until the invention of 
die cotton gin, by Mr. Eli Whitney, 
of Connecticut, which was soon exten- 
sively introduced, and is now in univer- 
sal use, to the incalculable benefit of the 
culture, commerce, and manufacture, of 
cotton, by greatly reducing the cost and 



the time devoted to its preparation for 
market. The inventor of this invaluable 
machine was, however, long unrewarded 
for his skill and ingenuity; for, while 
on a tour of visitation in the south, after 
it had become extensively introduced, 
he was infoi'med that it would be unsafe 
for him to prosecute a claim for viola- 
tions of his patent. He afterward, how- 
ever, received sums of money from some 
of the states most benefited, as a small 
return for the favor he had conferred 
upcm them. 

The nankeen cotton is of a clear and 
lasting buff color, and has been intro- 
duced with success into the middle and 
northern parts of the state, where it is 
much employed for home use. It is that 
kind of which the nankeen cloths of 
China are made. 

Rice, as we have before remarked, is 
one of the principal productions of South 
Carolina. Being a water plant, its cul- 
ture is confined to the lowlands, to which 
water can be brought in. It is a crop 
which requires peculiar care and atten- 
tion, as may be presumed fiom the vari- 
ous processes necessary in its cultiva- 
tion. 

On the tide-lands, or those which lie 
on the coast and are open to the ocean, 
so that the supply of water is obtained 
fi'om it, rice is sown about the 20th of 
March, while on those inland, which are 
irrigated from fresh-water streams, the 
sowing-time is about three weeks later. 
The soil is turned up with the hoe or 
plough, and then formed into drills or 
trenches. From one to two bushels are 
sown upon an acre, and then the water is 
let in, and left standing from two to four 
days, to kill the worms, and make the 
grain germinate. The water is then 
drawn off, and the hoeing commences, 
which is soon repeatro, the grass being 
now picked from among the young grain 
by hand. The water is again let in af- 
ter the third hoeing, for ten days and 
often more, sometimes for twenty. The 
water is then suffered to run off by de- 
grees, and the rice branches out, each 
branch at length bearing an ear of from 
100 to 300 grains. Three months after 
sowing it begins to blossom, and then 
the floodgates are again opened and the 



374. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 



water flows in, where it remains till har- 
vest, which takes place in August on the 
coast, and in September inland. But 
the great obstacle in the way of rice- 
culture, is the unhealthiness of the neigh- 
borhood, caused by the miasma raised 
by the heat of the sun, which is most 
deadly to white men, and very injurious 
also to the negroes. The rice-planters 
generally leave their homes during the 
summer, and take their families to the 
cities, or to the uplands, to avoid this 
evil. 

From 600 to 1,500 pounds of rice are 
obtained from an acre inland, and on 
the coast from 1,200 to 1,500, and even 
sometimes 2,400. 

The separation of families from each 
other, in a country where the plantation 
system is universal, and the scarcity of 
villages and even smaller settlements, 
necessarily throw many obstacles in the 
way of social improvement. Children 
can hardly be collected in schools, or 
the people in chui'ches, while social in- 
tercourse must be limited, even though 
there may be much hospitality, leis- 
ure, and love of society, such as are 
generally found in this and other south- 
ern states. 

Railroads. — South Carolina distin- 
guished herself by her early enterprise, 
in constructing one of the first great 
railroads in the Union, on a plan whose 
success has proved its sagacity. It was 
consti'ucted across an extensive region, 
offering indeed few obstacles of surface, 
but encouraged by few of the advanta- 
ges found in a thickly-populated coun- 
try. The grand object lay in opening a 
communication with the Savannah river 
overland, by which the delay and expo- 
sure of the sea voyage might be avoid- 
ed; and a large part of the great cotton 
crops, annually gathered on its banks, 
is now carried in safety and at a rapid 
rate to the city of Charleston, the great 
commercial port of the south, to be 
shipped for New York and Europe. 

Keowee lake (see page 373). — This 
secluded little lake lies among the wild 
scenes of a region little changed by cul- 
tivation or the neighborhood of man. 
A bold and wooded hill rises on the riglit 
with a sudden swell, while a path, wind- 



ing along the left bank, is shaded with 
a variety of trees, presenting a diversity 
of form and foliage. A white sail, seen 
at a distance, intimates that the placid 
waters are sometimes disturbed by a 
passing boat, while the group of visiters 
in the foreground, reminds us, that the 
beautiful scene has attracted the atten- 
tion of the admirers of nature. 

The falls of the charashilac- 
TAY. — This view is inserted here, to give 
an idea of the bold and picturesque 
scenery which abounds in some parts of 
the high, western regions of the state. 
The stream, whose singular, aboriginal 
name has been preserved, after flowing 
some distance, meets an abrupt, mural 
precipice in its course, and falls, in a 
beautiful sheet, interrupted by two suc- 
cessive projecting shelves of the rock, 
to the bottom of the gulf which opens 
beneath. The effect is very striking, es- 
pecially when viewed from below, the 
bare ledges in front, whitened by the 
glistening foam of the falling stream, 
being crowned with foliage, and half 
shaded by trees, which line the banks, 
and spring from the crevices. 

Charleston is the principal Atlantic 
seaport of the southern states, and a 
large and flourishing city. It stands 
upon a peninsula, at the mouths of 
Cooper and Ashley rivers, which empty 
into a spacious bay, with depth of water 
sufficient to form an excellent harbor. 
By the aid of several islands, advanta- 
geously situated, it is well protected from 
the waves of the ocean, and fortified 
against foreign attack. The population, 
including the Neck, in 1850, was 42,806. 

Although the site of the city is level 
and low, like the neighboring land, its 
appearance is favorable from the water. 
The buildings, however, are chiefly of 
wood, and the streets are narrow, ex- 
cept the two principal ones, which cross 
each other, and traverse the city in its 
length and breadth. The principal pub- 
lic buildings are the city-hall, court- 
house, college, orphanhouse, medical 
college, guardhouse, hospital, poorhouse, 
customhouse, jail, St. Andrew's hall, 
and state building, with several church- 
es. The city suffered from a great con- 
flagration in 1835, which laid waste a 



.J 



376 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 




Charleston Hotel. 



considerable extent of ground. The 
private houses are generally of a plain 
style, but many of them are neat and 
substantial ; and the appearance of the 
city is much improved by many gardens, 
in which some of the finest fruits are 
cultivated, with a success which well re- 
wards the taste and care of the inhabi- 
tants. Oranges, figs, pomegranates, 
grapes, &c., abound, with a great vari- 
ety of flowers and ornamental shrubs. 
Of these a charming display is annually 
made, in the exhibitions of the horticul- 
tural society. 

The inhabitants, who amount to about 
43,000, include many persons from the 
eastern states, and a considerable num- 
ber of French. In the summer months 
the city is the residence of many of the 
planters from the neighboring estates 
and the interior, who are driven from 
home by the unhealthiness of the country. 

Our engraving of Meeting street pre- 
sents two churches in tho distance, while 
Charleston Hotel (a fi'ont view of which 
is given above) is seen on the left. This 
edifice has a fine colonnade of fourteen 
tall Corinthian pillars, rising from the 
second story, and supporting the roof 
above the fourth, with a broad piazza 
within, while the tall pediments below, 
afford between them entrances to the 
basement story from the sti'eet. 

The Charleston College, the oldest in- 
stitution of the kind in the state, was 



founded in 1795, and has four professors, 
with a library of 3,000 volumes, and 
about 50 or 60 students. 

The Medical College of the state was 
founded in 1833, and has eight profes- 
sors and about 150 students, and enjoys 
a high reputation. 

The Orphan Asylum is an interesting 
and highly useful institution, containing 
about 200 friendless children. 

Free Schools have been supported in 
all parts of the state, at considerable 
expense, by the legislature. The an- 
nual appropriations of money, as eai'ly 
as 1828, were nearly 40,000, the num- 
ber of schools 840, and of pupils 9,000. 

The Guardhouse, which has been men- 
tioned among the public buildings, is 
large, and the headquarters of the city 
guard, a part of which consists of mount- 
ed men, who form the regular night pa- 
trol. 

The Citadel, which was formerly used 
as the gnardhouse, is now occupied as 
the state military school. 

The Literary and Philosophical Soci- 
ety is an association creditable to the 
state, and possesses a valuable collection 
of specimens in the different departments 
of science. 

The City Library contains about 
20,000 volumes. 

The Apprentices' Library contains 
about 10,000 volumes, and supplies the 
members with a course of lectures. 



378 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 



Among the objects in the vicinity of 
Charleston worthy of particular atten- 
tion, is Sullivan's Island, which was the 
scene of important military operations 
in the revolutionary war. Fort Moul- 
trie, which commands the entrance of 
the harbor, was gallantly defended by 
a very feeble force, against a British 
squadron sent to take the city. 

The harbor now presents a scene of 
great activity. Besides the regular for- 
eign and coasting vessels, which are nu- 
merous, steamboats and packet vessels 
arrive or depart every day, chiefly for 
the transport of passengers. There is 
a daily line of steamboats to Wilming- 
ton, North Carolina, and other lines to 
Savannah and St. Augustine. Regular 
lines of fine ships sail at stated times for 
New York, &c., &c. Railroad cars 
start every day on the great track, for 
several impo^ant cities, to which the 
branches lead, Columbia, Augusta, and 
Savannah, and onward to more distant 
places beyond the last two: Mobile, 
Montgomery, Ala., and Memphis, Tenn. 
Stage-coaches offer the means of con- 
veyance to other towns, near and distant. 

Beaufort, 75 miles from Charleston, 
is situated on Port Royal river, and has 
one of the largest and best harbors in 
South Carolina. With a population of 
about 1,600, it contains an academy, a 
library, and three churches; and has 
communication with Charleston and Sa- 
vannah by steamboats. 

Columbia, 130 miles from Charleston, 
is the capital of South Carolina, and 
stands on a large plain, about 200 feet 
abovS the level of the Congaree river, 
which flows at a little distance south of 
it, crossed by a bridge. The town makes 
a handsome appearance, being laid out 
with regularity, in long and broad streets, 
planted with shade trees. Steamboats 
and railroad cars keep up a daily com- 
munication with Charleston. 

The Statehouse is a handsome edifice 
of two stories, and 170 feet in length; 
and the town contains two banks, a the- 
atre, an academy, and several other pub- 
lic liuildings, including six churches of 
different religious denominations. The 
population amounts to 6,100. 

The College of South Carolina, at 



Columbia, was founded in 1801, by an 
act of the legislature, and has been sup- 
ported in a great degree by the treasury, 
which, previously to the year 1833, had 
expended about $200,000 hi erecting 
edifices, procuring a library and appa- 
ratus and other contingencies, besides 
an annual sum of $15,000. There are 
six tutors, about 150 students, and a 
library of 15,000 volumes. The com- 
mencement is held on the first Mon- 
day in Decembei', 

The Southern Theological Seminary, 
which also is situated in this place, has 
a library of 4,000 volumes, two profes- 
sors, and as yet, only a small number of 
students. It was founded in 1831. 

Cheraw stands on the great Pedee 
river, 93 miles from Columbia, and, like 
it, at the dividing line between the liisjli 
and the low regions, at the head of nav- 
igation. The town is on a considerable 
elevation, about 100 feet above the water, 
but is small, containing only about 1,400 
inhabitants. The public buildings are 
the bank, the town hall, five churches, and 
two academies. Steamboats come from 
Georgetown, and stage-coaches daily to 
Columbia and Raleigh. 

Camden, 33 miles from Columbia, 
stands on a plain on the left bank of the 
Wateree, and contains several fine pub- 
lic buildings ; the city-hall, courthouse, 
masonic hall, bank, library, academy, 
and four churches. 

The Monument, in De Kalb street, 
was founded in 1825, when the corner- 
stone was laid by General Lafayette, in 
honor of Baron De Kalb. The Indian 
mound, a few miles west of the town, 
is said to be one of the remains of the 
Catawbas, formerly a powerful tribe. 

Spartansburg is a pleasant lown^ in 
a hilly part of the state, much resorted 
to by travellers, on account of the water- 
ing places in the vicinity ; the Limestone, 
Pacolet, Cedar, and Glenn Sulphur 
springs. 

Greenville stands near the bank of 
Reedy river, which has several falls. 
The town is laid out with caste, and en- 
joys a healthful situation. It contains 
a courthouse, two academies, a library, 
and several churches. It is 107 miles 
from Columbia. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



379 




This state, extending from Tennessee 
to Florida and the ocean, and lying 
between South Carolina and Alabama, 
has the same variety of surface, soil, 
and climate, as most of the other south- 
ern states, but differs from the Carolinas 
in having much less seacoast. The area 
of the state is 62,083 miles ; and from 
the mouth of St. Mary's river to the 
northwest corner (the longest straight 
line that can be drawn within its boun- 
daries), is 394 miles. 

The general surface of Georgia pre- 
sents a great slope toward the south, of 
which the peninsula of Florida is a mere 
continuation. The rivers which descend 
it flow eastward into the Atlantic, or westward into the gulf of Mexico. On 
the coast, the slope descends to the very level of the salt water, forming the rich 
islands and shores which produce the celebrated sea-island cotton; while in 
the north it presents a general elevation of 1,200 feet, which is overlooked by 
the still higher mountain ranges. It is remarkable that the temperature is two 
degrees higher on the Atlantic coast than on the gulf, where the latitude and ele- 
vation are equal ; and this is proved by the vegetation, as well as by scientific 
experiments. The gieat length of the state, with its variety of surface, gives 
Georgia a greater extent of vegetable production that any other state in the Union, 
producing wheat in the north, and sugarcane in the south, with the various plants, 
in different parts, between these two extremes. 

The nature of the surface requires us to distinguish three zones in this state, 
like those of North and South Carolina. The sea-border has an almost tropical 
climate, and is so nearly on the water level, as to be in part overflown by the 
daily tides ; and where the soil is rich and dry enough, sugarcane flourishes, as 
well as the orange, date, and other palms, with a variety of plants not found 



-^ 



380 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



further north. The islands and shores 
on which the long-staple cotton is culti- 
vated, above alluded to, are bordered by 
narrow, and often intricate channels, 
navigable by vessels, which appear from 
a distance as if moving upon the land. 
This species of cotton is well-known, 
and most highly valued in all the ports 
and manufacturing cities of Europe, as 
well as of this country ; and all attempts 
made, at home and abroad, to produce 
a rival have proved unsuccessful. The 
length and fineness of the staple or fibre 
fit it for some of the most costly fabrics ; 
and the demand is always great, and the 
prices high. A considerable proportion 
of this first and lowest region of the 
state, however, has a poor and even bar- 
ren soil. 

The second district, which is both 
sandy and hilly, has considerable tracts 
of worthless hind, though other parts 
yield corn and cotton; but the most val- 
uable portion of the state is the higher 
region beyond, which presents a more 
varied surface, and a soil of superior 
fertility, well watered by numerous 
streams; while the sultry and unhealthy 
atmosphere of the lower country is re- 
placed by cool, pure, and wholesome 
air. 

The grand primitive formation of the 
United States commences at Milledge- 
ville, in this state, and extends, with the 
highest ridge of the Allegany moun- 
tains, through several northern ones, 
forming the boundary between the great 
western valley of the Mississippi, and 
the eastern slope to the coast of the 
Atlantic. This range is distinguished 
through a great pai't of its length, by a 
remarkable feature. It terminates ab- 
ruptly at the border of the extensive 
alluvial region which forms the broad 
band between it and the ocean. This 
character accompanies it as it passes 
west of Washington and Philadelphia, 
to the Hudson river, and is attended 
with several circumstances and effects, 
of great practical importance, which 
have been referred to in our notices of 
the geography of North and South Car- 
olina. Beyond the Hudson the same 
primitive range extends eastward, and 
spreads over the New England states, 



reaching down to the coast, and lining 
the shore with a range of rough granite 
rocks. 

Westward, the same primitive range 
extends almost to Tennessee, being 
bounded beyond by a transition range, 
which intervenes between it and the 
secondary region of the Mississippi. 

The Chatahoochee river is said to have 
derived its name from a rock of a pecu- 
liar appearance, which stands on its 
bank, a short distance above Columbus. 
It is marked with various bright colors, 
so intermingled as to make it apjiear as 
if overgrown with various plants, in full 
bloom. Hence the Indians bestowed 
upon the stream the name which it has 
retained, ai>d which signifies the "flower- 
rock waters." Many parts of this fine 
stream are interesting, on some account 
or other, between its source, in the north- 
east quarter of Georgia, and Appalachi- 
cola bay, which is four hundred and 
thirty miles below Columbus. The sce- 
nery just above that city is remarkably 
wild and picturesque ; rocks projecting 
from the banks, and many rising from 
its bed, impeding the current, and in- 
creasing the roughness of the stream, 
rendered hasty by the descent of the 
channel. Its course is, for several miles, 
a succession of falls and rapids, within 
four of which the declivity is more than 
one hundred feet. 

Along its shores have been some of 
the most rapid improvements made in 
the state. Columbus has already be- 
come a considerable town, although but 
a few years ago an Indian village. Be- 
low its site many villages are to be seen 
from the steamboats, in which the trav- 
eller makes his way through the heart 
of the state. 

The Lover's Leap. — Thepla-ce bear- 
ing this name is a romantic spot on the 
Chatahoochee, and is represented in the 
vignette at the head of this slate. It is 
a high and ragged cliff, which is the ter- 
mination of an ascending knoll of dai-k 
rocks, and projects boldly into the river. 
One of the most beautiful scenes of na- 
ture can be viewed from this rock. In 
a straight line on the left, the river pur- 
sues its downward course to the city. 
The water foams and frets over the 



1 




Tnllalah FalU. 



382 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



rocks, in angry surges. A deep ravine 
forms the bed of the stream, and it is 
walled by lofty and irregular cliffs, cov- 
ered to their tops with forest-trees of 
beautiful growth. 

The falls of Coweta are enveloped in 
a thick mist, which partially obscures all 
the surrounding objects, among which 
are the steamboats which constantly ply 
upon the river, and the bridge which 
stretches across the river. 

The river at the leap suddenly turns 
so as to form a right angle with its 
course below, flowing in a narrow chan- 
nel, which is so regularly lined on each 
side with rocks, and of so uniform a 
width, as greatly to resemble a canal; 
but a little distance above, it again forms 
a right angle, and moves onward in its 
old course. The beauty of the view 
which we have described, does not ex- 
ceed that of the other parts of the land- 
scape, for the scene on the right, and in 
the foreground, is scarcely less beautiful 
and picturesque. 

" Dr. F., the guide and life of our 
party," says Richards, "remarked, that 
a surprising change, indeed almost ma- 
gical, has come over the scene upon 
which we gaze, since 1828, when the 
Indians lighted their council fires in the 
town of Coweta, an Indian settlement, 
where now the fair city of Columbus, 
obedient to the will of civilization and 
commerce, erects her noble head. Then, 
the fields over which we have rambled 
to-day, had never felt the ruthless share 
ploughing their vii'gin soil. The trees, 
which now spread their bare and de- 
caying arms to the sky, were enrobed in 
their primeval greenness and strength. 
The cliff, which we now behold, had 
rarely echoed to the woodman's axe. 
Its voices were responsive to the occa- 
sional rifle of the wild hunter, and the 
more frequent yell of the savage, and 
roar of the wild beast." 

The spot derives its name from an In- 
dian tradition : A young woman of the 
tribe having fallen in love with a youth of 
a neighboring one, just before hostilities 
occurred betweeu them, she was pur- 
sued as a traitress, and the lovers threw 
themselves into the stream, and were 
carried to destruction down the falls. 



The Falt,s op Tullulah. — In the 
midst of the picturesque region which 
forms the county of Habersham, in the 
northeastern corner of the state, we find 
the falls of Tullulah, twelve miles from 
Clarkesville. The road is rough, and 
almost dangerous to carriages ; and there 
is not a single habitation to be seen, 
except a log house, two miles fi-om the 
spot, where visiters stop for refieshment. 

A small stream, called by the Indians 
the Terrora, rushes impetuously from a 
remarka'ble rent in the Blue Ridge, 
which extends several miles, and every- 
where presents a most impressive, and 
often a terrific scene. The granite rocks 
which compose the banks are precipi- 
tous, and about a thousand feet in height ; 
though the breadth of the narrow gulf 
between hardly exceeds that distance. 
The engraving on page 381 presents the 
reader with the view from the most fa- 
vorable point, which is a mass of rock 
called "the Pulpit,", that projects from 
the face of a precipice overhanging the 
narrow valley, and looking down, from 
a considerable height, upon the roaring 
brook, as it pours furiously over three of 
the principal cascades in its course. 

Some distance above, a steep and bro- 
ken path leads down the bank, and ladies 
have sometimes descended to the margin 
of the stream, though it is not free from 
danger, and the return is laborious. The 
visiter may also find access to the foot 
of the second fall, by a path too hazard- 
ous to be prudently passed, namely, by 
creeping on his hands and knees along 
the brow of a precipice, a fall from 
which would be almost certain death. A 
gentleman, as we are informed, once fell 
in making this experiment, plunged into 
the stream, and was carried rapidly along 
till he reached the cataract and was 
swept down it, sixty feet, yet escaped 
without serious injury. 

The Indian name of this stream, which 
is written by Americans Terrora and Tel- 
lula, is said to signify terror, presenting 
a singular, though doubtless an acciden- 
tal resemblance to its meaning in Eng- 
lish and Latin. 

Rock Mountain. — Within view of 
the Blue Ridge, and at a short distance 
from the course of the Chatahoochee, 



384 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



rises the Rock mountain, a tall and con- 
spicuous eminence, nine hundred feet 
high, with a gentle slope toward the 
west, and a precipitous termination 
toward the east. The road winds along 
the base, till it reaches the foot of the 
eastern bluff, where the sublime emi- 
nence, rising far above, produces an im- 
pression of wildness and grandeur, diffi- 
cult to describe. The rock above pre- 
sents a convex surface, with a rapid 
descent to the plain, channeled by nu- 
merous ravines, down which, in every 
storm, pour numerous torrents, whose 
channels again become as speedily dry. 
We present the reader with a handsome 
engraving of this mountain, on page 383. 

On the summit of the mountain has 
been erected an octagonal tower, built 
of wood, one hundred feet square at the 
base, and one hundred and sixty-five 
feet high. This singulai construction, 
so convenient to the visiter, and eleva- 
ting his eye to a superior sphere, has 
already stood several years, although 
it rests upon the bare rock, without any- 
thing except its own weight to keep it 
in its position. In the lower part is a 
small hotel, which contains even a piano. 
The view from the top of the tower is 
very extensive and interesting, ranging 
over a long extent of the blue ridge, 
with varied tracts of country below, 
chiefly covered with forest. 

The Cross-Roads are two remarkable 
fissures in the rocks, which cross each 
other at a point where they are five feet 
wide; and at that spot they are covered 
by a large, flat rock, twenty feet in 
diameter. 

The Fort. — The whole summit of the 
mountain is enclosed by the remains of 
an ancient entrenchment, of the history 
of v/hich the Indians disclaimed all 
knowledge, except that it was of a date 
prior to that of their ancestors. 

The clrcumfefence of Rock mountain 
is about six miles, and the height of its 
summit 2,230 feet above the level of the 
ocean. It exhibits, in different parts, a 
great variety of vegetation ; plants, flow- 
ers, and berries of many different kinds, 
presenting themselves to the visiter, as 
he winds along its base, climbs the 
rocky sides, and wanders over its lolty 



eminences, amid the exhilarating atmo- 
sphere of a superior region. 

History. — Georgia was one of the 
original thirteen states of the American 
Union, but the youngest in respect to 
the time of settlement. Its increase in 
population, however, has been among 
the most rapid since the revolution. 
The first colonies were planted under 
authority of a patent granted by George 
II., in 1732, to twenty-one persons, who 
were called " the trustees for settling the 
colony of Georgia," a name bestowed in 
honor of the king. The first party of 
emigrants reached Charleston in 1733, 
under the direction of General James 
Oglethorpe, and the settlement of Savan- 
nah was begun in the spring. In conse- 
quence, however, of injudicious restric- 
tions laid on the colonies, the increase 
of the population was checked, and its 
prosperity retarded for some years. 

Unfortunately, this part of the country 
was easily accessible to the Spaniards, 
who claimed it as their own ; and the fear 
of invasion, as well as the actual at- 
tempts made to gain possession, greatly 
retarded the increase of the colony. 
Retaliation on the part of the English 
served to increase the difficulties of the 
community. In 1742, General Ogle- 
thorpe made his unsuccessful attempt to 
capture St. Augustine ; and two years 
after, the Spaniards invaded the colony, 
but were in their turn defeated. The 
Georgians were thus burdened by heavy 
debts, like the Carolinians, and by the 
same causes, from which they were soon 
able to recover, in consequence of tlie 
more favorable circumstances in which 
they were placed by coming under the 
royal government, as a colony of the 
king. This occurred in 1752. 

A genei'al repi'esentative assembly 
was formed in 1755; and in consequence 
of the cession of Florida to Great Brit- 
ain, the country between the Altamaha 
and St. Mary's rivers was ceded, much 
to the advantage of Georgia. Symp- 
toms of increasing prosperity soon be- 
gan to appear ; but the Cherokees, a 
powerful and wai'like nation of Indians, 
occupied the western and noi'thern parts 
of the territory; and several others were 
near them ; and a period of danger and 



==^ 




S WEtKES&<i 



Paliski Monument— Christ Church, Savannah. 



2f> 



386 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



wars soon commenced, which caused 
great sufferings, and greatly checked the 
increase and extension of the settle- 
ments. 

During the revolution, Georgia suf- 
fered in common with the country at 
lai'ge ; and since the close of that war, 
she has ceded to the general government 
a larger extent of territory than any of 
her sisters, except Virginia, embracing 
all Alabama and Mississippi, north of 
latitude 31°: about 100,000 square miles. 

The first constitution was adopted in 
the year 1777, and the second in 1785. 
The latter was amended in 1789 ; and 
the present was adopted in 1798. The 
senators and legislators are elected an- 
nually. A senator must be twenty-five 
years of age, nine years a citizen of the 
United States, one year a resident of the 
district, and the owner of an estate of 
five hundred dollars, in the county, or of 
taxable property of one thousand dol- 
lars. Each county sends one senator. 
The number of representatives is pro- 
portioned to the number of whites, and 
three fifths of colored persons, of whom 
an enumeration is made every seven 
years. Each county has one member, 
but none can elect more than seven. A 
representative must be twenty-one years 
old, seven years a citizen of the United 
States, three years an inhabitant of the 
state, a resident in the county the pre- 
ceding yeai-, and owner, for a year, of a 
freehold of two hundred and fifty dol- 
lars, or five hundred dollars' worth of 
taxable property, cleared of incum- 
brance. 

The governor is elected by the assem- 
bly, for two years. He must be thirty- 
six years old, have been a citizen of the 
United States for twelve years, six years 
a citizen of Georgia, and the owner of 
five hundred acres of land in Georgia, 
and four thousand dollars in other prop- 
erty. A voter must be a citizen, twen- 
ty-one years of age, and a payer of 
taxes. 

Education was quite neglected in 
Georgia before 1811, about which time 
academies sprang up in almost every 
town. Since that period, few persons 
have grown up in entire ignorance, 
while thousands, born before the year 



1800, it has been said, "know not a 
letter." The baptists and methodists 
are the most numerous denominations in 
the state, and after them the presbyte- 
rians and episcopalians. 

Printing was first introduced into 
Georgia in 1762, by James Johnston, a 
Scotchman, who commenced the publi- 
cation of a newspaper, called " The 
Georgia Gazette," in the following year. 
The first number of it was published 
on the 17th of April. He continued 
the publication twenty-seven years, after 
which it was published by his succes- 
sors. This was the only newspaper 
printed in the limits of Georgia before 
the I'evolution. 

Savannah. — This chief town and prin- 
cipal seaport of Georgia is situated on 
the western bank of the river of the 
same name, fifteen miles from its mouth, 
one hundi-ed miles southwest from 
Charleston, and one hundred and sixty- 
seven miles southeast by east from Mil- 
ledgeville; in latitude, 32^ 5', and west 
longitude, 4° 18'. Population 30,000. 

The streets of Savannah are sandy, 
but shaded by China-trees, and the 
houses are generally of wood. There 
ai'e eighteen public squares in different 
parts of the city. The commercial ad- 
vantages which it enjoys, from the abiin- 
dant crops of cotton, &;c., raised along 
the banks of the river, and the free ac- 
cess of ships drawing not more than 
twelve or thirteen feet of water, ren- 
dered it an important town, even while 
the place was made unhealthy by the 
practice of wet culture on the neighbor- 
ing rice-plantations, which has been 
abandoned since the year 1817, in con- 
sequence of an act of the legislature, 
passed at that time. In 1820, Savannah 
suffered to the amount of four millions, 
from a devastating fire, which swept 
irresistibly over a large part of the city. 

Care has been taken to embellish the 

city, by providing abundance of shady 

trees for the numerous public squares. 

Among these the celebrated Pride-of- 

j India is conspicuous, whose graceful 

form and delicate foliage, with its semi- 

tropical aspect, render it peculiarly ap- 

1 propriate to such a use. Among the 

i houses, the city now presents a consid- 



388 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



erable numher of handsome, well-built 
dwellings, while the following are the 
principal public edifices : the arsenal, 
exchange, courthouse, barracks belong- 
ing to the United States, theatre, hos- 
pital, market, banks, public library, 
three academies, thirteen churches, &c. 

The Pulaski Monument was erected 
in the year 1825, in memoiy of Generals 
Pulaski and Greene, of the revolutionary 
army. It is a neat and simple obelisk 
of white marble, fifty-three feet high. 
The base of the pedestal is ten feet four 
inches by six feet eight inches, and its 
height thirteen feet, the needle which 
surmounts the pedestal being thirty- 
seven feet in height. It is built upon 
a platform of granite, three feet above 
the ground, and the whole is enclosed 
by a cast-iron railing. It has a very 
advantageous position, in the middle of 
one of the public squares. See p. 385. 

MiLLEDGEvii,i,E. — This towu is the 
capital of the state. It stands on the 
southern side of the Oconee, one hun- 
dred and fifty-eight miles from Savan- 
nah, on an irregular surface, at the head 
of steam navigation. The streets cross 
each other at right angles ; those run- 
ning in one direction lying parallel to the 
river. At the distance of three quarters 
of a mile from its banks is a fine public 
square, on the summit of a hill, which is ' 
adorned with tlie statehouse. This is a 
building in the Gothic style ; and the 
repi'esentatives' hall, which is sixty feet 
in length, and fifty-four in breadth, 
is ornamented with full-length portraits 
of Generals Oglethorpe and Lafay- 
ette, while those of Washington and 
Jefferson are in the chamber of the 
senate. 

In different parts of the city are the 
arsenal, magazine, market, academy, 
three banks, three churches, and the 
governor's residence. 

Columbus, two hundred and eighty- 
four miles from Savannah, stands on the 
left bank of the Chatahoochee, at an 
elevation of sixty feet above the water. 
The falls, which extend for three miles 
above the town terminate steamboat 
navigation. They are a succession of 
rapids, descending, in all, one hmi 
dred and eleven feet. The two prin 



cipal streets are one hundred and sixty 
feet wide, and run north and south, 
crossed by twelve others, ninety-nine 
feet wide. The academy, market, school- 
houses, five banks, and five churches, 
are among the public buildings, and the 
place contains a number of cotton-fac- 
tories, mills, (fee. The population is 
about eight thousand. A flourishing 
trade in cotton employs several steam- 
boats, and it is a place of much busi- 
ness, although so late as 1827 it was a 
council-town of the Coweta Indians, and 
the commissioners appointed to appor- 
tion the lots of the city began their Wf)rk 
so late as the 10th of July, 1828. The 
Cowetas, who inhabited this region, and 
made this spot the chief settlement, 
were one of the seven tribes of the 
Creek nation. 

The Courthouse is a fine building, with 
a basement, two stories, and a steeple 
one hundred and ten feet high, and two 
Grecian porticoes on the front. 

The Planters' and Mechanics^ Bank 
has a portico, in the style of the cele- 
brated Temple of the Winds, in Athens. 

The private buildings of Columbus 
display a good degree of taste, as do the 
decorated yards and flower-gardens 
which are here and there displayed. 

The Cotton Warehwuse, on the bank 
of the river, is one of the largest in 
Georgia, an extensive fireproof building, 
covering an acre and three quarters. In 
the year 1838, 42,000 bales of cotton 
were shipped here, and the amount has 
increased considerably 

Athens, on the right bank of the 
Oconee, contains about three thousand 
inhabitants, and has a pleasant and 
healthy situation, seventy five miles from 
MilledgeviHe. It is the seat of 

The Georgia University, founded in 
17S5, which has six professors and about 
eighty students, with a large philosoph- 
ical aj^paratus, and libraries containing 
about twenty thousand volumes. 

The railroad affords the means of a 
daily communication with Augusta. 

Madison Spring. — This fashionable 
resort is named after the county in which 
it is situated, and is found in the midst 
of a wild region, near Oconee river, 
seven miles distant from Danielsville, 



390 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 




Entrance to the Madison Springs. 



the county town. It is convenient to go 
in a stage-coach from Athens. The na- 
ture of the water has been known about 
twenty years, but the place has but re- 
cently attracted much notice, since ac- 
commodations have been provided for 
visiters. A large hotel has been erected, 
surrounded by small tenements, for the 
summer residence of families ; and an 
avenue, several hundred yards in length, 
leads through the forest to the spring, 
which is provided with conveniences, as 
represented in our engraving. The wa- 
ter, which flows from a marble curb, is 
chalybeate, in a greater degree than the 
springs of Cheltenham and Brighton, in 
England. A sulphur sjyring has been 
discovered at three miles' distance. 

Macon is already a considerable and 
flourishing place, with seven thousand 
inhabitants, although so lately as the 
year 1822 there was but a single house 
on the spot. The situation is favorable 
for business, being at the head of steam 
navigation on the Ocmulgee river, which 
flows through the middle of it, and is 
crossed by a fine bridge, three hundred 
and eighty feet long. A great quantity 
of cotton is annually received at this 
place, and sent down the river, while 
there is a daily communication with Sa- 
vannah by the railroad. 



An institution for female education 
was opened here in 1839, under the 
name of the Georgia Female College, 
which is in a flourishing cojidition, hav- 
ing about one hundred pupils, under the 
charge of a president, three professors, 
and several other instructors. 

Augusta. — This town is situated on 
the Savannah river, one hundred and 
thirty-five miles from its mouth, and one 
hundred and twenty north of Savannah. 
It is a place of much trade, receiving 
large quantities of produce fi'om the 
neighboring country, especially cotton, 
and being connected with Charleston by 
the great railroad, which extends beyond 
it, still further into the interior. During 
a certain part of the year, the river is 
navigable by steamboats. 

The streets are regular, and planted 
with shade-trees, and the houses are 
generally of brick. Among the public 
buildings are the courthouse, city-hall, 
medical college, hospital, theatre, ar- 
senal, female asylum, several academies 
and churches. 

The Medical College of Georgia. — 
The first proposal to establish a medical 
school in this state was made by Dr. 
Antony, in 1827; but active measures 
for it were not taken until the year 1830. 
when the legislature passed a bill, incor- 



392 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



poratingthis institution, and authorizing 
them to confer the degree of Doctor in 
Medicine on persons who have complied 
with the requisitions of the most respec- 
table institutions in the United States. 
In 1835, the faculty addressed a circular 
to all the medical schools, proposing a 
convention in Washington city, which 
has not been held, but the honor of the 
project is due to this state. In 1833, a 
donation of $10,000 was made by the 
legislature, and another of $5,000, by the 
city council of Augusta, on condition 
that the college should supply the hos- 
pital, for ten years, with attendance and 
medicines. These sums enabled the 
trustees to erect the fine edifice which 
they at pi'esent occupy. It is a large 
structure, in the Doric style, with ac- 
commodations and arrangements well 
adapted to the nature of the institution, 
and which has been pronounced by good 
judges, equal, in this respect, to any 
other in the Union. It enjoys a fine and 
pleasant situation, admirably adapted to 
its use, in the vicinity of the town, on a 
lot appropriated to it by the trustees of 
Richmond academy. 

In 1834, ten thousand dollars were 
raised by the faculty, who sent one of 
the prcjfessors to Europe, to purchase 
an anatomical museum, chymical appar- 
atus, and sui'gical cabinet. In 1835, the 
legislature conferred on the institution 
a second grant, amounting to about 
twenty-five thousand dollars, which af- 
forded them a fund for contingent ex- 
penses. The first class was instituted 
1833-'4, and amounted to thirty; and 
the members have been increasing al- 
most every year, although the institution 
suffered a severe reverse, in consequence 
of the fatal epidemic of 1839, when, 
among many other losses, the valuable 
life of Dr. Antony fell a sacrifice to his 
humane exertions for the benefit of the 
sick. 

The lectures begin on the second 
Monday in November, and close early 
in March ; and the expense of the whole 
course, including practical anatomy and 
matriculation, is only twenty-five dol- 
lars. In the first ten years of its exist- 
ence, the medical college of Georgia had 
three hundred and ninety-seven students, 



of wh(jm one hundred and nineteen re- 
ceived degrees. 

Georgia Female College. — The va- 
rious religious denominations in this 
state, by combined contributions, having 
collected more than six hundred thou- 
sand dollars, for the support of educa- 
tion, which has been appropriated to 
different institutions, in all parts of the 
state; and this college, so creditable to 
the intelligence of Georgia, and so well 
calculated to confer upon it the highest 
benefits, owes its existence to the en- 
lightened spirit and indefatigable labors 
of a few individuals in the city of Macon. 
Twenty thousand dollars were raised, 
to found a female college, in conformity 
with a resolution passed at a public 
meeting, and soon after, placed at the 
direction of the annual conference of the 
methodist episcopal church. In 1836, 
the legislature incorporated the trustees 
appointed by that body, and granted 
twenty-five thousand dollars to the in- 
stitution. 

The college edifice enjoys a command- 
ing situation, on a fine eminence between 
Macon and Vineville, overlooking the 
former (which lies upon the plain be- 
neath), and the surrounding hills, beau- 
tified by many neat and tasteful edifices. 
On the west is the village of Vineville ; 
and on the north Fort Hawkins shows 
its remains, consisting of old block- 
houses and trenches, while the forests 
spread far away on the east, and bound 
the distant horizon. The college build- 
ing is one hundred and sixty feet long, 
and sixty in breadth, four stories high 
in the middle, with a cupola. Four 
large columns, in the centre of the 
front, support a roof over the entrance; 
and the building contains fifty-six rooms. 
Most of those in the basement are occu- 
pied as recitation-rooms. The stew- 
ard's apartments are also below, wheie 
some of the officers have accommoda 
tions. The chapel is forty feet by sixty, 
on the second story, where are also the 
library, music-room, and president's 
apartments. The young ladies attend- 
ing this institution provide their own 
furniture; and their lodging-rooms, 
which occupy the third and fourth sto- 
ries, accommodate four each. 



394 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



The yard extends over four acres; 
and the rest of the section of land de- 
voted to the institution is judiciously 
left covered with groves of fine oak- 
trees, so that ample opportunities are 
afforded for agreeable and healthful ex- 
ercise. Six acres of ground opposite 
have been reserved for a botanical gar- 
den — the gift of the city council. 

The college w^as opened in 1839, and 
has a president, three professors, with 
the principal of the primary depart- 
ment, professors of music and drawing, 
a niatron, and a superintendent of do- 
mestic economy. The methods of in- 
struction are thorough and practical. 
The regular course includes the French 
language; but Latin, Greek, and Span- 
ish, are taught, only in extra classes. 
There is but one term in the year : from 
the first Monday in October, for ten 
months. Pupils are not received under 
twelve years of age. 

Oglethorpe University. — This in- 
stitution is situated at Medway, in Bald- 
win county, on account of its central 
position, in a pleasant and healthful re- 
gion, being a place easily accessil)le from 
all directions. The spot is elevated, on 
a ridp-e lying east and west, two miles 
and a half south of Milledgeville, and 
ending at the bluff on Oconee river, on 
which are the ruins of old Fort Wilkin- 
son. The foundation of the edifice is 
on a level with the top of the cupola of 
the statehouse; and the view is exten- 
sive on every side, embracing an undu- 
lating surface of twenty miles round, 
including Milledgeville. 

The erection of the principal building 
was begun in 183G, and completed in 
1838. It is of brick, two stories high, 
with abasement, in the Dcn'ic style; and 
being painted white, and of great extent, 
makes a striking appearance. The chapel 
occupies the centre, forty-eight feet by 
sixty, with a colonnade and vestibule. 
Tlie wings are each thirty feet in front, 
and three stories high, with professors' 
and recitation rooms, while other rooms 
are appropriated to the library, museum, 
apparatus, &c. Two ranges of small 
buildinofs stand at some distance on each 
side, each contammg two students 
roi ms ; while the house of the presi- 



dent stands on the south side of the 
campus. 

The institution commenced operation 
in January, 1838, with six professors; 
and the first class was graduated in 1839. 
It is under the direction of the piesby- 
terian synod of South Carolina and 
Georgia, but its advantages are free to 
all. There are two sessions in the year : 
one from the first Monday in January 
to the second Wednesday in May; after 
which is a vacation of four weeks. 
Commencement is held on the Monday 
succeeding the second Monday in No- 
vember. 

Oglethorpe university owes its origin 
to two manual labor schools, under the 
Education society of Georgia. That 
association was dissolved, and in 1835, 
the trustees of the Medway seminary, 
which was one of those institutions, 
offered it to the Hopewell presbytery, 
who received it, and soon constituted it 
a college, under their government and 
control, with a charter from the legisla- 
ture. That chai'ter forbids any shop to 
be opened, within a mile and a half of 
the institution, on penalty of five hun- 
dred dollars, or more; while deeds of 
university lots provide for the forfeiture 
to it of lots on which such shops may 
stand. This feature has since been in- 
troduced into other charters, and has 
doubtless prevented many of the evils 
to which other literary institutions are 
often liable. 

The Falls of the Towaliga, eight 
miles from Indian springs. This pic- 
turesque scene is presented by the little 
river whose name it bears, at the spot 
where it pours down a rocky ledge, 
which there disturbs its generally gentle 
course, and gives it an aspect of wild- 
ness, elsewhere foreign to its shores. 

The Towaliga has an Indian name, of 
uncertain import, pnmounced with the 
accent on the last syllable. The stream 
has its origin in Henry county, and pur- 
sues a course of seventy miles, to the 
Ocmulgee, of which it is a tributary. 
Just before it reaches the falls (which 
are represented in the engraving on 
page 123), the bed has a rapid descent 
for some distance, where the surface of 
the water is broken in rapids, overlooked 



396 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



from the summit of a hill, over which 
passes the road leading to the spot. A 
mill occupies one of the banks; and a 
lofty bridge, erected across, was partly 
destroyed, a few years since, by a 
flood. 

The falls, seen from below, make an 
impressive appearance. The breadth of 
the bed is there about three hundred 
feet, and a mass of rock, at the brow of 
the first precipice, divides it into two 
sheets, which descend perpendicularly 
about fifty feet, in beautiful foam, made 
in the course of its tumultuous passage 
down the rapids. Here it is received 
by a deep gulf, which suddenly checks 
its fui'y; but, before it has time to re- 
cover its tranquillity, it reaches the bi'ow 
of the second rapids, down which it hur- 
ries, with roar and turbulence, a distance 
of two hundred feet, and then pours 
over the second fall, in a current broken 
into several cascades, when it soon sub- 
sides, below, to comparative quietness. 
The height, roughness, and thick shade 
of the banks, greatly increase the effect 
of the scene. The reader may form 
some correct conception of the interest- 
ing spot, by a glance at the accompa- 
nying engraving, which is copied from 
a print in that elegant work, " The Sce- 
nery of Georgia," to which we have 
been indebted for many interesting facts 
on these pages. The drawing was made 
from the northern bank of the stream, a 
spot rather difficult of access, and not 
easily attained by many spectators, who 
generally find it more convenient to con- 
tent themselves with a view from the 
opposite side. There are, however, 
many favorable points of view, both near 
and more distant, especially from some 
of the rude rocks which border and 
overhang the water, in different parts of 
its romantic and terrific course. 

A short distance below the falls, a 
little island occupies the middle of the 
river, dividing it into two currents, which 
are narrow, but rapid. This vicinity 
was formerly a favorite resort of the 
deer, which visited it in considerable 
numbers, to feed on a peculiar kind of 
long and delicate plant, resembling moss, 
which grows to the length of two feet, in 
the sluices of the falls. They have, 



however, been destroyed or driven away 
by the hunters. 

TocKOA Falls. — The most remark- 
able waterfall in this state is that of the 
Tockoa creek, which flows from the 
southern extremity of the Alleganies, 
at Cunawhee mountain. It descends 
one hundred and eighty-seven feet, from 
a precipice, in a narrow stream, twenty 
feet in breadth, which, in the rainy sea- 
son, forms an unbroken sheet of foam to 
the bottom. At the ordinary height of 
water, the supply is so small, that it is 
said to be dissipated in vapor before it 
reaches the level below. 

Remarkable Incidents in the His- 
tory OF Georgia. — As we have not 
room to give a connected history of this 
state, it may be interesting to our read- 
ers if we recount a few incidents rela- 
ting to some of its most important 
periods. 

Yaniacraw, the Indian name of the 
bluff on which Savannah now stands, 
was the spot on which the treaty was 
held with the Creek Indians by General 
Oglethorpe, at which the first tract of 
land was ceded to him. The place was 
then occupied by a small tribe of that 
nation, called the Yamacraws. 

In 1733, General Oglethorpe brought 
out from England a band of one hun- 
dred and thirteen colonists, who landed 
at Charleston. They were there kindly 
assisted, and furnished with boats, &c., 
by which they were enabled to proceed 
to the place of destination, and soon 
reached the Savannah river. The fol- 
lowing year they were joined by five or 
six hundred more, who were provided 
with tracts of wild land, but soon proved 
ill-qualified for the task they had under- 
taken, and ere long difficulties arose, 
as many of them had been collected 
from among the poor and idle popula- 
tion of European cities. The trustees 
of the colony thei-efore took measures 
to secure emigrants of a better class; 
and. in 1735, about four hundred arrived 
in Georgia, from Scotland, Switzerland, 
and Germany. 

Mary Musgrove was the name of an 
Indian woman, or half-breed, who ren- 
dered material service to General Ogle- 
thorpe, in promoting his plans for the 




Tockoa Falls. 



398 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



benefit of the colony. She was able to 
speak both languages, and appears to 
have been a woman of much address, 
acting as interpreter at several import- 
ant treaties which terminated favorably. 
In gratitude, he bestowed upon her a 
hundred pounds a year, in addition to 
the pi'esents with which he had secured 
her interest. Fifty Creek chiefs pre- 
sented themselves at the treaty of Savan- 
nah, at which the great land-grant was 
obtained, and among these was Tomo- 
chichi, who, in the name of the others, 
thus addressed Oglethorpe, in reply to 
the general's speech, in which he had 
dwelt on the power and wisdom of the 
British king : — 

" Here is a little present. I give you 
a buffalo-skin, adorned on the inside 
with the head and feathers of an eagle, 
which I desire you to accept, because 
the eagle is an emblem of speed, and 
the buffalo of strength. The English 
are swift as the bird, and strong as the 
beast; since, like the former, they flew 
over the vast seas to the uttermost parts 
of the earth, and like the latter, they 
are so strong that nothing can withstand 
them. The feathers of the eagle are 
soft, signifying love; the buffalo's skin 
is warm, and signifies protection: there- 
fore I hope the English will love and 
protect their little families." 

But, although this treaty terminated 
in so amicable a mannei', difficulties, ere 
long, began to arise, being fomented by 
one of those restless, unprincipled, and 
dangerous men, so often the bane of 
young colonies. Thomas Bosomworth, 
the chaplain in Oglethorpe's regiment, 
for his own selfish and ambitious views, 
wrought upon a petty prince, named 
Malatchie, king of Frederica (near Sa- 
vannah), till he persuaded him to as- 
sume the ridiculous title of Emperor of 
the Creek Nation. Bosomworth then 
married Mary Mus grove, and set up for 
her a claim to the empire, on pretence 
of her being the elder sister of Mal- 
atchie. The Indians were incited to 
support her, and escorted her to Savan- 
nah, to establish her claim. 

The president of the colony, and his 
council, were alarmed at their approach, 
and at fii'st knew not what course to 



pursue. The militia, however, were 
soon under arms, and Captain Noble 
Jones, by his resolute conduct, induced 
the Indians to lay by their weapons, when 
Bosomworth, with his queen, escorted 
by the chiefs and their warriors, solemnly 
paraded the streets, and struck the fee- 
ble colonists with fear. They, however, 
made such fair promises, that their arms 
were returned. Bosomworth was soon 
after seized and confined, which so irri- 
tated his wife that she threatened ven- 
geance, and excited the savages to hos- 
tile demonstrations. By great prudence 
and coolness, the governor succeeded in 
tranquillizing them, two or three suc- 
cessive times, though Mary and Mal- 
atchie as often again enkindled their 
passions, and misled their judgment. 
The storm was at length dispelled by 
the decision of Captain Noble, who en- 
tered the council-room with a guard, 
and made the Indians suirender. Bo- 
somworth was subsequently induced to 
lay aside his ridiculous claims, and re- 
ceived a pardon, while the Indians de- 
parted in peace. It was not long, how- 
ever, before Bosomworth presented his 
case in England, which remained pend- 
ing in the courts for twelve years. The 
result was, that the island of St. Cath- 
arine was granted to him and his wife, 
of which they took possession. She, 
however, died soon after. 

In the year 1778, Savannah was occu- 
pied by General Howe, with six hundred 
regular troops and a few militia, when 
it was attacked by a British army of six 
thousand men, under Lieutenant-Colonel 
Campbell, who had arrived from New 
York by water. The defenders were in 
too small force effectually to resist such 
numbers, but did not yield without a 
severe struggle. An obstinate battle 
was fought, in which our countrymen 
lost about six hundred men killed, and 
thirty-eight officers and four hundred 
and fifteen soldiers prisonei's, with forty- 
eight guns, twenty-three mortars, and 
all the vessels lying in the river. 

The enemy remained in possession of 
the city until 1779, when Count d'Es- 
taing, commander of the French fleet, 
then in the West Indies, being invited 
by General Lincoln to make a combined 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



399 



attack upon Savannah, proceeded to the 
river with twenty ships-of-the-line, two 
of fifty guns, and eleven frigates. Lin- 
coln, with the militia of Georgia and 
South Carolina, proceeded toward Sa- 
vannah; but, before his arrival, Count 
d'Eslaing, after demanding a surrender, 
had granted a suspension of hostilities 
for twenty-four hours, before the expi- 
ration of which, a reinforcement of eight 
hundred troops arrived at Savannah, 
from Beaufort, who encouraged the gar- 
rison to reject the demand of a surren- 
der. The siege of the town was there- 
fore commenced on the 4th of October, 
with thirty-seven cannon and nine mor- 
tars, on land, and fifteen cannon from 
the water. An assault was, however, 
determined on; and on the 9th, at day- 
break, a strong force attacked the Spring 
Hill battery, which was taken, and held 
for a short time, but soon recovered, and 
the invaders retreated, abandoning the 
enterprise. A regular siege, it is be- 
lieved, would have soon reduced the 
place; but the French officers objected 
to hazarding their fleet so long on the 
coast. 

Count Pulaski, a Polander, distin- 
guished by his birth, and exploits in 
Europe, who had recently been made a 
brigadier-general in our army, received 
a mortal wound in that engagement. 
In memory of him. Congress ordered 
the erection of the monument, which is 
described on page 388. 

We will close our brief account of 
that interesting peiiod, by mentioning a 
remarkable exploit performed by six 
Americans, just befoi'e the attack on 
Savannah. It is equally remarkable for 
the sagacity of the plan and the cool- 
ness and bravei'y of the execution. 

On the Ogeeche river was a British 
force of about one hundred and forty 
men, of whom one hundred were under 
Captain French, of the royal army, and 
forty were sailors, composing the crews 
of five small vessels lying in that sti'eam, 
four of them armed, and the largest with 
fourteen guns. The six men above re- 
ferred to, formed an ingenious plan for 
capturing this force. They made prep- 
arations for kindling numerous fires, at 
short distances from each other, and 



lighted them all at once, in the evening, 
presuming the Englishmen would mis- 
take them for the camp-fires of a large 
body of troops. In order to counte- 
nance such a deception, they resorted to 
other measures which their ingenuity 
dictated; and then, in due form, and in 
a peremptory manner, summoned the 
enemy to surrender. 

Colonel John White, of the Georgia 
line, and Captain Elholm, were the lead- 
ers in these movements, which required 
so much skill and caution ; and with 
such success did they perform their 
parts, that the British were completely 
blinded, and their commander, "to pre- 
vent the effusion of blood," promised to 
surrender. It was now extremely im- 
portant for the captors to avoid the ex- 
posure of their weakness ; and Colonel 
White represented to Captain French, 
that he was afraid to bring forward his 
troops, because they were exasperated 
against the invaders of their country, 
and offered to give him three faithful 
men, as guides, who would conduct 
them to safe and comfortable quarters. 
The offer was thankfully accepted ; and 
the Englishmen marched off in haste, 
leaving the colonel, with his whole "re- 
serve" (his servant and one other man), 
to bring up the rear. To perform this 
last-remaining duty required a little 
time, for he immediately hurried away 
to call out the militia; but he soon fol- 
lowed on, and made his appeai'ance 
with a respectable force, which had been 
collected rather later than the enemy 
supposed. 

General Lee declares, that this exploit 
was of so extraordinary a nature, that he 
could never have persuaded himself to 
record it, if it had not received general 
credit, without ever having been contra- 
dicted.* 



* For tlie pictures which accompany this arliclo 
we are indebted to tlie pencil of T. Addison Rich- 
ards, Esq . the first, if not the oidy artist, who hii.« 
souglit themes of study amid the beautiful scenery of 
the Fouth. It is to bis works, which liave been en 
graved on stsel, wood, and stone, and widely ciriu- 
lated, that we owe oar acquaintance with the beau 
tiful mountains, valleys, and cascades of the southern 
states No work of the kind, in this country, has 
equalled in beauty his interesting publication, " Geor- 
gia Illustrated." 



400 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



Among the numerous men who per- 
formed important parts in the early pe- 
riods of our colonial history, there are 
few more remarkable for activity, enter- 
prise, and purity of principle, than 
Oglethorpe. He performed a variety 
of duties, and generally with equal skill 
and success. As circumstances requir- 
ed, he could confer with the friends of 
America in England, on plans for plant- 
ing colonies, then, collecting bands of 
emigrants, and placing himself at their 
head, conduct them across the Atlantic, 
and transport them to the j^laces assign- 
ed for their habitation. He would con- 
duct negotiations with the savages, pro- 
vide for the sustenance and defence of 
the community, encourage his compan- 
ions under adversity, protect them from 
invaders, and even march, with a band 
of white men and Indians, through the 
wilderness, to seize the post of a dan- 
gerous enemy, or to intimidate them, 
when an attack was to be apprehended. 

Oglethorpe combined in his character 
mucii strength of purpose, and boldness 
and perseverance, with philanthropy 
and active zeal. Had he been of a less 
manly disposition, he might have chosen 
a less exposed and less dangerous thea- 
tre to act upon ; but the peculiar posi- 
tion of the country now forming the 
southern part of Georgia, offered attrac- 
tions for such a spirit as he possessed. 
It was wholly unoccupied by civilized 
men ; for, although it was included in 
Heath's old patent, that instrument had 
been declared void, on account of the 
failure to fulfil the terms on which it 
had been granted, viz., that settlements 
should be 7nade on the land. But the 
time had now arrived, when itwashigh- 
Iv important that some of the principal 
military points should be occupied: for 
the Spaniards in Florida, and the French 
in Louisiana, had the power to traverse 
it at will, and were at liberty to enter it 
with whatever force they could com- 
mand, and might soon annex it to their 
own territories. 

The exposed situation of that district 
excited much solicitude in England ; 
and to interpose a protecting power be- 
tween it and the rival Spanish neigh- 
bors, whose antipathies were religious 



as well as national, was the principal 
motive for the first settlements made in 
the territory of Georgia. A charter was 
therefore granted to Sir James Oo-le- 
thorpe, and several other noblemen and 
gentlemen, in 1732, of the country ly- 
ing between the Savannah and Altama- 
ha rivers; and they proposed to form a 
colony of criminals taken from the pris- 
ons, on the plan afterward practised 
on a larger scale in New Holland. The 
project was approved by the benevolent, 
and a considerable sum of money was 
collected in different parts of England, 
while the house of commons granted, at 
several times, appropriations to the 
amount of thirty-six thousand pounds, 
to the enterprise. We have already 
given a brief outline of some of the 
principal events, and shall now only at- 
tempt to supply some of the important 
particulars, not included in our cursory 
glance. 

On his first visit to Savannah, Ogle- 
thorpe in a short time erected a fort, 
formed his colonists into a military com- 
pany, consummated his treaty with the 
Creek Indians, and, appointing two of 
his officers, named Scott and St. Julian, 
to exercise the government of the colo- 
ny during his absence, returned to Eng- 
land. He gave them charge to make a 
treaty with the Choctaws, whicli they 
successfully accomplished, and thus se- 
cured the friendship and protection of 
another powerful native nation, of great 
importance in the infancy of the colony. 

The principal chief of the Creeks ac- 
companied the governor to England, 
with his wife and several of his inferior 
sachems. They were received with 
much honor in London, being introdu- 
ced to the king and nobility, and enrich- 
ed with numerous presents, estimated 
to be worth four hundred pounds. Af- 
ter a stay of four months they returned 
with Oglethorpe, in a vessel which 
brought out a new band of colonists. 
Amont/ the numerous emigrants who 
soon ilun- arrived frcmi Germany and 
Switzerland, were several of the associ- 
ates of the celebrated Moravian mission- 
ary. Count Zingendorf; and a no less fa- 
mous individual of that age, John AVes- 
ley, came from England in the same 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



401 



year, 1735. The character and history 
of this man, then in his youth, are wor- 
thy of a much more particular notice 
than can be given in a work like the 
present. It is pleasing to recur to this 
early enterprise of one so eminently 
distinguished by Christian philanthropy, 
directed to a class of men, and a region 
of the N©w World, presenting so little 
to incite the interest of any person not 
devoted to doing good. 

John Wesley,with his brother Charles, 
had become known to Oglethorpe, in 
London, in consequence of their labors 
in the prisons, for the instruction and 
improvement of criminals. They had 
formed a society, in company with 
George Whitfield and a few pious young 
men, while in college, for that truly be- 
nevolent object, in which they persever- 
ed, in spite of the jeers of some of their 



smaller towns ; and no great number of 
children are cast off wholly unprovi- 
ded for. Public or private charity steps 
in for their relief. 

A fort was so(m built at Augusta, for 
the defence of the Savannah river; a 
second at Frederica, which was a con- 
siderable woi-k with four bastions ; and 
a third on Cumberland island, to com- 
mand the entrance of Jekyl sound, the 
only ship passage to Frederica. These 
wei'e constructed at the expense of par- 
liament, which appropriated ten thou- 
sand pounds for their erection and main- 
tenance. Before they were completed, 
a message was received from the Span- 
ish commander in Florida, that a con- 
ference was desired with the governor, 
and the news came that a reinforcement 
had arrived from Havana. A peremp- 
tory demand was made for the immedi- 



acquaintance, who called it in contempt i ate evacuation of the territory south of 



the Godly Club. What important ef- 
fects have resulted from that associa- 
tion ! It may have been the original 
model of those societies since formed 
for kindred purposes, especially of those 
for the reformation of delinquents and 
criminals, whose influence has been so 
salutary and extensive. 

It was through Oglethorpe's persua- 
sion that the two Wesleys were induced 
to visit the new colony ; and they were 
accompanied by three or four of their 
associates, and a company of three hun- 
dred other persons, including a hundred 
and seventy more Moravians. After a 
short period of religious exertions, he 
retui-ned to England : and Whitfield 
soon after came out, with similar objects. 
He proposed the foundation of an or- 
phan asylum, which, as appears from his 
pul)iished letters, was a favorite plan, 
and pursued with his characteristic 
zeal and perseverance. It exists at the 
present day ; but it has never proved 
successful in the degree anticipated by 
its founder. This may be partly ac- 
counted for from the fact, that compara- 
tively few orphans, in our country, need 
such provision for their support. Vice, 
rather than the mere loss of parents, re- 
duces children to destitution and dis- 
tress ; for the means of living are easi- 



St. Helena sound, with a threat that 
the king of Spain would seize his own 
possessions by force of arms in case of 
refusal. Oglethorpe, being unprovided 
with adequate means as well as author- 
ity, immediately embarked for England, 
and there received the appointment of 
major-general of all the fr rces of South 
Carolina and Georgia, and a regiment 
of military emigrants, with whom he 
hastened back. 

On his arrival, he learned that the 
Spaniards had been busy in attempts to 
draw off the Indians from his interest, 
and that some of the Creek chiefs were 
then at St. Augustine. But he had the 
address to counteract the enemy ; he 
sent invitations to the Indians to visit 
him at Frederica, whither they repaired 
after their return from Florida, and by 
his influence were easily confirmed in 
their friendly relations with the English. 

But it was not long before alarming 
symptoms of treachery were discovered 
among the English troops. One of the 
soldiers had served at Gibraltar, and 
there acquired an acquaintance with the 
Spanish language, through the medium 
of which he had held a traitorous com- 
munication with the enemy ; and, after 
being corrupted himself, he had found 
means to excite disaffection among- his 



ly obtained in our new settlements and I comrades. The first intimation received 



26 



402 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



by the general, was made in an attempt 
to assassinate him, which fortunately 
failed, and the conspirators were execu- 
ted. 

By a report made to the trustees of 
the colony in 1740, it appears that at 
that time twenty-five hundred persons 
had been sent out as settlers, and that 
the amount of money expended was 
half a million of dollars ; but it was 
so far from yielding any returns to the 
proprietors, and even from supporting 
itself, that it still required annual aid. 
The character of the colonists was far 
different from that of many of the earlier 
settlements; though when we consider 
the natural advantages of the country, 
we may well be surprised at the discour- 
aging result. A mixed population, how- 
ever, especially with a large proportion 
of the dregs of European cities, and 
even of the prisons of England, could 
not rationally be expected to bi'ing a 
colony to such a condition as was early 
attained by the Pilgrims in the north, 
the Friends in Pennsylvania, the patient, 
economical Hollanders at New York, 
or the bands of farmers and others, who 
at different periods occupied different 
points along our extensive seacoast. 
Perhaps, we might rather be surprised 
that Oglethorpe was able to accomplish 
as much as he did for the benefit of the 
colony, amidst the numerous obstacles 
which surrounded him. 

We have before mentioned his attempt 
to seize St. Augustine, and his want of 
success, in consequence of an unexpect- 
ed reinforcement of the Spanish garri- 
son at that place. We have also spoken 
of the invasion made in retaliation ; but 
a few particulars may here be added, 
which show at once the perilous condi- 
tion of affairs at that juncture, and the 
military abilities of the general. 

The expedition which sailed from 
Havana for the Altamaha river in 1742, 
consisted of six thousand men ; and its 
object was finally to destroy the south- 
ern colonies, and to seize upon the ter- 
ritory for the crown of Spain. An en- 
ergetic demand was immediately made 
upon South Carolina for troops ; but all 
assistance was refused, and he was left 
to his own resources. His policy was 



therefore to be adapted to his weakness ; 
and, instead of offering such resistance 
as he would have wished on the front- 
iers, he retreated as far as Frederica, 
having only about seven hundred Euro- 
peans under his command, with a body 
of Indians. After this show of timidi- 
ty, or of prudence, however, he boldly, 
but secretly, moved on toward the ene- 
my, intending to take them by surprise, 
and had already marched within two 
miles of their camp, with every prospect 
of success, when a French deserter 
among his ranks, fired his musket and 
fled back to the enemy. Although thus 
disappointed, Oglethorpe's ingenuity 
still found a resource, and sitting down, 
he wrote a letter to the deserter, in 
terms calculated to lead the Spaniards 
to suspect the runaway as faithless to 
them, in the style of instructions to him, 
for his guidance in the enemy's camp. 
In this he requested him to lepresent 
that Frederica was defenceless, and 
ought to be immediately taken. If the 
Spanish commander should appear un- 
willing to take that step, the French- 
man was instructed to use his utmost 
exertions to persuade him to remain 
three days longer in his present posi- 
tion, as that would allow time for the 
removal of six thousand troops, who, he 
pretended, were on their way to rein- 
foixe the British army, and six ships, 
expected on the coast. The letter in- 
sisted particularly on the greatest cau- 
tion being used, to avoid any allusions 
to Admiral Vernon's plan of attack up- 
on St. Augustine, as a secret of the ut- 
most importance. The letter was then 
put into the hands of a Spanish desert- 
er, who was set at liberty under a prom- 
ise to deliver it to the Frenchman. On 
reaching the Spanish camp, however, 
he took it to the commander, who was 
completely imposed upon by the ingeni- 
ous device, and thinking he had happily 
obtained important information, seized 
the Frenchman, and put him in irons. 
In the midst of doubts and fears, in- 
to which this letter had thrown the ene- 
my, a fortunate event occurred, which 
turned the scale in favor of Oglethorpe. 
South Carolina had slowly yielded to 
the request he had made for assistance. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF GEORGIA. 



403 



so far as to send three vessels with 
troops ; and these arrived off the mouth 
of the Altamaha just in season to be 
mistaken by the invading general, for a 
part of the naval reinforcement alluded 
to in the intercepted letter. Such appa- 
rent confirmation of the document con- 
vinced him of its truth ; and he imme- 
diately destroyed his fortifications, and 
embarked for Florida in consternation, 
leaving, in his haste, a number of his 
cannon, &c., and some military stores. 

The success of this stz'atagem, the in- 
genuity of which is certainly very re- 
markable, secured the delivei'ance of 
the colony, when it was in its most crit- 
ical condition, and threatened with final 
destruction. Without the loss of life, 
and at a small expense of money, the 
sagacious Oglethorpe was thus able to 
deliver the colony of an enemy far too 
numerous to be resisted, and from the 
threatening prospect of falling irretriev- 
ably into the hands of a foreign power, 
opposed to that of Great Britain in pol- 
icy, laws, and religion. 

Having accomplished so important a 
service, and finding nothing important 
to demand his future presence, he em- 
barked for England for the last time, 
and spent the remainder of his life in 
tranquillity. On the commencement of 
hostilities in America in 1775, he receiv- 
ed the offer of the command of the Brit- 
ish forces, prepared to suppress the spir- 
it of opposition, but accepted only on 
condition of being authorized to assure 
the colonies that they should have justice 
done them. This reply appears to have 
been unsatisfactory to the ministry, for 
Sir William Howe was appointed com- 
mander in his stead. Oglethorpe re- 
mained in retirement until the close of 
his life. He attained an extraordinary 
age, surviving the unhappy contest be- 
tween his native country and the colo- 
nies which he had so faithfully served. 
He witnessed the first nine years of 
peace which succeeded the revolution, 
during which, the colony that he had 
planted, nursed, and defended, became 
an independent state, connected with a 
young republic which already showed 
signs of that rapid increase, in popula- 
tion, wealth, and improvement, which it 



has since experienced, and is likely long 
to enjoy. 

Among the numerous striking chan- 
ges which have been produced in our 
country by the lapse of a short period 
of time, that effected on the ancient seat 
of Yamacraw may be appropriately 
mentioned. One hundred and eighteen 
years ago, a small band of settlers late- 
ly from England, driving a few " hogs 
and cows," which had been given by 
people at Charleston, " to begin their 
stock," arrived near the spot, escorted 
by "the rangers," and aided by "the 
scout-boats," sent by the governor of 
South Carolina. 

" Oglethorpe and Bull explored the 
country ; and, having found a high and 
pleasant spot of ground, situated on a 
navigable river, they fixed on this place 
as the most convenient and healthy sit- 
uation for settlers. On this hill they 
marked out a town ; and from the Indi- 
an name of the river which ran past it, 
called it Savannah. A small fort was 
erected on the banks of it as a place for 
the defence of the colony. The people 
were set to work in felling trees and 
building huts for themselves ; and Ogle- 
thorpe animated and encouraged them, 
by exposing himself to all the hardships 
which the poor objects of his compas- 
sion endured. He formed them into a 
company of militia, appointed officers 
from among themselves, and furnished 
them with arms and ammunition. To 
show the Indians how expert they were 
in the use of arms, he frequently prac- 
tised them. 

" Having thus put his colony in a 
good state of defence, the next object 
of his attention was, to treat with the 
Indians for a share of their possessions. 
The principal tribes that at this time oc- 
cupied the territory were the upper and 
lower Creeks : the former were numer- 
ous and strong ; the latter, by diseases 
and war, had been reduced to a smaller 
number ; both tribes together were com- 
puted to amount to about twenty-five 
thousand, men, women, and children. 

"At a little distance from Savannah, 
is a high mound of earth, under which 
the Indian king lies inteiTed who held a 
conference with Sir Walter Raleigh." 



404 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 




The history of Florida, from the ear- 
liest expedition of discovery almost to 
the present hour, has been but a record 
of disappointments and disastei's. Hav- 
ing neither mines of gold, nor any pe- 
culiar advantages for agriculture or com- 
merce, the Spanish character of the 
people, while occupying it for three 
hundred years, had a full opportunity to 
display its imbecility; while our own 
government, since entering upon the 
possession a few years ago, have exhib- 
ited, in a manner no less lamentable, a 
disregard to humanity in their treatment 
of the poor remains of the original red 
race. 

Florida is one of the few great peninsulas of America, and presents several 
peculiar features, one of which is its very important position. As has been 
remarked, in speaking of Georgia, this long point is only the continuation of the 
southern slope of that state. It nowhere presents any considerable elevation ; 
and the greatest part of the surface is a level, raised but little above the ocean, 
with vast tracts too wet for use, and even wholly or chiefly impassable, or sub- 
merged in water. 

The western coast of Florida extends six hundred miles, from the Perdido 
river to Cape Sable ; while the eastern, from St. Mary's river, including the 
southern, to Cape Sable, is four hundred and fifty. The Atlantic ocean 
bounds the eastein coast, and the southern extremity is washed by the Bahama 
and Cuba channels. The northern boundary runs from the mouth of St. Mary's 
river to the mouth of Flint river, up the Chatahoochee, to latitude 31 deg. 40 
min., separating it from Georgia. Thence the line proceeds along the limits of 



Alabama, two hundred and forty miles, 
to Perdido river, and down that stream 
f(»tty miles, to its mouth. The whole 
outline of Florida is about fifteen miles, 
and it extends through six degrees of 
latitude. 

The climate is more uniform than in 
any other tract of equal extent, north 
and south, in the United States. This 
is owing to the little variation of surface, 
and the proximity of the sea. Pine pre- 
vails among the forests, as the soil is 
generally poor; but the variety of other 
trees is very gi-eat. Rice and Indian 
corn, sweet potatoes, cotton, indigo, and 
sugarcane, are the chief productions of 
agriculture, while oranges, limes, pome- 
granates, and figs, grow in abundance. 

The surface of Florida presents a 
great proportion of waste land and wa- 
ter, with all the varieties of bays, creeks, 
and lagoons, along the coast ; and in- 
land, of hammocks, savannahs, and ever- 
glades. The hammocks vary in their 
nature from dry to wet, and many of 
them are impassable, or with a few in- 
tricate intervals of hard and shallow 
grounds, wholly under water; never 
known to any except the Indians, whose 
superior acquaintance with the country, 
during the late lamentable Florida war, 
often gave them advantage over our 
troops, in the hammocks and everglades. 
The various plants which grow abund- 
antly in some parts of those swamps 
and lakes, often add their obstacles to 
the traveller ; especially saw-grass, which 
soon cuts in pieces the clothes of men, 
and even their flesh. It would be diffi- 
cult to give an adequate idea of the for- 
bidding aspect of those extensive and 
desolate regions. Yet, in some places, 
verdant tracts occur even among those 
low and swampy districts, where flow- 
ers in profusion display their beauties 
throughout the year. 

The eastern coast is dangerous for 
large vessels, in easterly gales, as the 
numerous inlets are generally too shal- 
low for ships, having water only for 
vessels of a light draught. On the west, 
however, are the harbors of Perdido, 
Pensacola, Choctawhatchee, St. An- 
drew's, St. Joseph's, Appalachicola, Ap- 
pelachee, Tampa, Carlos, and Gullivain. 



St. John's river is very crooked, and in 
some parts, four or five miles wide. 

Pensacola, in north latitude 30 deg. 
23 min., and longitude 10 deg. 19 min. 
west from Washington, stands on the 
northwestern shore of the bay of the 
same name, and enjoys the advantages 
of a fine and safe harbor, with a bar 
passable by vessels drawing twenty-one 
feet of water. The anchorage is good, 
but the water is shallow near the land. 

The city was founded in the year 
1699, by a Spanish officer named Don 
Andre de Riola. The entrance to the 
bay of Pensacola is narrow, between 
St. Rose's island and Barrancas point, 
eight miles from the city. 

St. Augustine is the principal town 
and seaport on the Atlantic coast of 
Florida, in north latitude 89 deg. 48 
min., and longitude west from Washing- 
ton, 40 deg. 21 min. It is the oldest 
settlement in the limits of the Amer- 
ican Union, and even older than the first 
Canadian colony, having been founded 
in 1565, by the Spatiiards. The harbor 
has twenty-eight or thirty feet of water, 
and is safe and commodious, being pro- 
tected from the sea by Anastatia island. 
The town extends along its side, on a 
peninsula, elevated only twelve feet 
above the level of the sea, and is of an 
oblong form, about a mile in length, but 
not very compactly built. The shell- 
limestone which forms the coast is the 
building material. It presents a very 
attractive appearance from without, as 
orange-trees in abundance grow in the 
yards and gardens ; but many of the 
sti-eets are crooked and narrow. The 
climate is as mild as that of southern 
Europe, and this city is therefore a re- 
sort of many invalids from the north. 
The sea-breezes by day, and the land- 
breezes by night, co-operate to keep 
the temperature mild and uniform. 
Steamboats go to Savannah and Charles- 
ton. Population about 3,000. 

The square near the water is orna- 
mented with an obelisk of stone, erected 
in the centre by the Spaniards, in the 
days of the constitution. It is surround- 
ed by two churches, the courthouse, 
and a number of handsome private 
buildings. 



DESCaiPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 



407 



Fort Marion, at the mouth of the 
harbor, is intended for seventy guns and 
one thousand soldiers. 

The harbor of Pensacola receives the 
two rivers, Yellow Water and Escam- 
bia; Choctaw river falls into the bay of 
the same name; while the Appalachi- 
cola forms a delta, and the Suwanee 
empties into Vacasausa bay, in latitude 
29 deg. 25 min. The St. John's differs 
from all the other rivers in the Union, 
in taking its rise from low, flat grassy 
plains, which extend to about latitude 28 
deg. It then flows a little westward of 
north, for a considerable distance paral- 
lel to the coast, and has the appearance 
of a sound. 

The low and uniform character of the 
coast of Florida renders it very danger- 
ous to navigation, especially on the east- 
ern side ; and the perils of the seaman 
are greatly increased by the numerous 
shoals and banks which line the south- 
ern coast. 

The Florida Keys are celebrated 
for the numerous shipwrecks which have 
occurred upon them. They are now the 
resort of wreckers, who often afford im- 
portant assistance to vessels in distress, 
for rewards proportioned to the value 
of their services. They have hereto- 
fore been infested by pirates, at differ- 
ent periods, and stained with the blood 
of many of their unfortunate prisoners. 
The Keys consist of a long line of sand- 
banks, reefs, rocks, and small islands, 
some bare, and others thickly overgrown 
with grass, reeds, or bushes, which for- 
merly gave complete shelter and con- 
cealment to the outlaws who lay in wait 
for prizes, and the last of whom were 
destroyed and captured by some of our 
armed ships, a few years ago. 

Tallahassee. — This town, the capi- 
tal of Florida, 210 miles from St. Au- 
gustine, stands on a considerable emi- 
nence, and contains above two thousand 
inhabitants, with several public squares, 
a courthouse, statehouse, masonic hall, 
land-office, market, and three churches. 
There is a valuable mill-str^m which 
passes along the eastern side of the 
town, and has a fall of sixteen feet, 
a short distance from the place where it 
sinks into the earth, and disappears. 



Jacksonville, thirty-eight miles from 
St. Augustine, and thii-ty from the sea, 
is a pleasant town, on the bank of St. 
John's river, with less than one thou- 
sand inhabitants. 

Appalachicola stands at the mouth 
of the river of the same name, on the 
gulf of Mexico. It contains about fif- 
teen hundred inhabitants, and has con- 
siderable trade in cotton. Steamboats 
go to New Orleans, and Columbus, Geo. 

Curiosities. — Among the natural cu- 
riosities of Florida are : — 

The White Sulphur Spring, on the 
bank of the Suwanee river. The water 
makes its appearance in a large basin, 
thirty feet in diameter, and ten feet deep, 
from which it flows in a strong current. 
It is so highly impregnated with sul- 
phur, that the taste and smell are very 
disagreeable; and it is celebrated for its 
efficacy in various cutaneous and other 
diseases. 

Subterranean Streams. — Williams, in 
speaking of this state, says, Florida is, 
in itself, a natural curiosity. It is (as 
all who are acquainted with the outline 
of the United States will allow), a sin- 
gularly-foiTned peninsula. Mr. Sea- 
grove alleges that it is a sand-bank ; but 
Mr. Williams supposes it to be a calca- 
reous fragment of the Appalachian 
mountain, clothed with some sterile 
sand-banks, some rich, variegated clay- 
banks, and some beautiful coralines. 
It is remarkable that, although Florida 
has many beautiful streams, some of 
them are found pursuing a considerable 
part of their course under ground. 
Pretty streams of sweet and pure water 
often rush headlong into some wild 
opening in the rocks, and entirely dis- 
appear; and it is quite common to see 
streams jet forth from the earth. Mr. 
Williams gives the following description 
in his work on Florida, published in 
1837:— 

" The Wahully River rises about ten 
miles northwest of St. Mark's, from one 
of the finest springs in Florida, or, per- 
haps, in the world. It is of an oval 
form, the largest diameter of which is 
about six rods. It is of an unkno\vn 
depth, and perfectly transparent. In 
looking into it, the color resembles a 



dear blue sky, except near the border, 
where it has a slight tinge of green, 
from the reflection of the surrounding 
verdure, which hangs over it in droop- 
ing branches and waving festoons. The 
eastern side presents a rugged, rocky 
precipice ; all else is an abyss of bound- 
less depth. Squadrons of fishes are seen 
careering round their own world, in per- 
fect security. The water is moderately 
cold, and highly impregnated with lime. 
The beauty of the fountain, the luxu- 
riance of the foliage around it, and the 
calm retirement of the whole scene, 
render this one of the most charming 
spots that West Florida affords." 

Lime- Sinks. — All over the territory 
are scattered lime-sinks, or sink-holes, 
which mark the course of the subterra- 
nean rivers. Holes in the ground, 
where the earth caves in, and where the 
hollow is filled with water, form these 
lime-sinks. Williams says : " They are 
often very deep, and from them I have 
often taken fine strings of trout. Two 
instances have occurred, within our 
knowledge, where persons have camped 
under the pines for one night, and the 
next, earth, trees, and all, have disap- 
peared, and an unfathomable sink has 
supplied the place." 

Oaves. — A large part of Florida (that 
is, the limestone region) abounds in 
caves. The rock is porous and soft, and 
slowly dissolves in water. Swift-running 
streams rapidly wear and tear away mass 
after mass, and from time to time new 
channels are formed, by which means 
the old are left dry. In many places, 
channels are worn under ground, and 
there considerable rivers pursue their 
way, for greater or less distances, be- 
neath the surface, some of which reap- 
pear, and others fall into the sea by un- 
knoAvn passages. Such is the nature of 
a number of streams in Europe, some 
of which have been connected with my- 
thological traditions and poetical asso- 
ciations. Wherever an old subterra- 
nean channel is deserted, a cavern is 
left; and among those which have been 
discovered in Florida, the most curious, 
perhaps, is 

The Arch Cave. — This remarkable 
excavation is about three miles from 



Chipola river, in Jackson county. At 
the foot of an immense limestone bluff" 
is an opening, only five feet in height, 
and thirty feet wide. Having entered, 
the visiter finds a descending passage of 
fifty feet, when he perceives that he has 
reached a spacious apartment, a hun- 
dred feet across and fifty in height, along 
the southern side of which flows a stream 
of pure, cold water, which soon disap- 
pears. A narrow passage leads onward 
to the northwest, with a pointed arch 
overhead, like a Gothic aisle. After 
proceeding sixty yards, a stream, twenty 
feet wide and five feet deep, crosses the 
path, which abounds in white cray-fish. 
The passage next turns northeastwardly, 
to a chamber one hundred feet long, 
with a floor of red clay, scattered with 
fragments of fallen rock, and blocks of 
stalagmite, formed by the water drip- 
ping from the numerous stalactites 
above. These, of different forms and 
sizes, almost conceal from view the lofty 
roof; while a collection of the longest, 
united in one undivided mass, extends 
from the ceiling to the floor, forming an 
immense, but well-proportioned column, 
which seems erected to support the rock 
above. The entrance of visiters into 
this hall with torches, disturbs a large 
flock of bats, which have their residence 
far above; and on their rapid wings, 
after fluttering about awhile, they dis- 
appear among the inner recesses of the 
extensive cavern, making a sound like 
that of a rushing wind. 

A narrow and winding passage n^^xt 
opens, to conduct the stranger to a new 
hall, from which several paths branch 
off* in different directions, where several 
streams are observed rushing through 
crevices of different sizes, and annually 
producing changes in their subterranean 
courses. The stalactite formations, at 
the same time, gradually fill up some of 
the chambers in which they are found; 
and the beauty of these it is difficult to 
describe, and even to imagine. They 
are masses of small crystals, more or 
less regular, though endlessly varying in 
form. The sides of the cavern are cov- 
ered with them in many parts, while the 
pendants above, like icicles, usually 
have a corresponding mass of the same 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 



409 



material forming on the floor below; and 
thus the light of the torclies is reflected 
in a thousand spangles, from every 
quarter. 

This cavern has been explored about 
six hundred yards, and many more hol- 
lows are known to exist in its vicinity. 
Several wells, sunk by Colonel Stone, 
opened into dark caves, by which the 
workmen became too much alarmed to 
continue their labors. 

The Ladies' Cave is another remark- 
able opening in the eafth, about a mile 
distant, in a southeast direction. The 
entrance is large, and the interior more 
spacious. The passage at first divides 
into two, of which that on the left soon 
leads the visiter to a deep stream, which 
disappears under an arched rock, cov- 
ered with crystals. The other, after a 
longer coui'se, and leading through sev- 
eral halls, is interi'upted by water, be- 
yond which is seen a large room. 

TJie Everglades. — This peculiar fea- 
ture may be ranked among the natural 
curiosities of Florida. South of the 
twenty-eighth degree of north latitude, 
Florida has very much the shape of a 
dish, the border of which is raised toward 
the coast. Near to the cape this border 
lies at the distance of from twelve to 
twenty miles from the shore. It is com- 
posed of the same calcareous rock 
which foi'ms this peninsula. This ex- 
tensive basin is intersected by numer- 
ous lakes and lagoons, and is filled by 
marshes and wet savannahs, which form 
a labyrinth, and are called the evei'- 
glades. It is drained on the north by 
the St. John's, on the east by the St. 
Lucia, Greenville, Jupiter, New river, 
Rattones, and Miami, and by the Snake, 
Swallow, Delaware, Caloosahatche, and 
Macaco, on the west. As one approaches 
the level of the glades, he is surprised 
by the appearance of a field of grass 
before him, which seems like the ocean, 
without bounds. He may then pass on 
westward, from six to twelve miles, till, 
by degrees, the grass disappears, and 
he is left in an unexplored, grassy lake, 
the limits of which his eye can not dis- 
cover. The grass is so tall and thick, 
that, although the borders of the lake 
are usually covered in winter with water, 



it is never so deep as to cover it. For 
ten miles from the timbered land, 
the earth is generally hard and dry in 
summer. This tract of country would 
afford a fine place for cattle to range, 
and is always well stocked with wild 
game. La Vega tells us, that pearls 
were known to abound in this region, 
at the time of the invasion by De Soto. 
Ml'. Williams says : " An old manuscript 
in my possession asserts, that a governor 
of Florida appointed a commission, for 
the purpose of seeking pearls in these 
lakes, which was successful." Mr. Wil- 
liams seems to infer from this and other 
facts, that it would be of much advan- 
tage to drain this portion of the country. 
He asserts, that if the waters could be 
lowered ten feet, it would probably 
drain six hundred thousand acres ; and 
if this should prove to be a rich soil, as 
it appears to be, what a field would it 
open for tropical productions ! 

History. — We have only room for a 
few leading events in the history of 
Florida : — 

1497. — Discovery by Sebastian Cabot, 
under the English flag, who merely 
saw the coast, without landing. 

1512. — Visited by Ponce de Leon, in 
search of " the fountain of health,^' re- 
ported to him by an Indian girl. He 
landed from Hispaniola at Cape Sable, 
on Easter day, and gave it the name of 
Florida, which the Spaniards afterward 
used to embrace all the country to Can- 
ada. After a long seaixh for the foun- 
tain (which may have been the Sulphur 
Spring), he returned, with the loss of 
many men. 

1516. — He made a second search for 
gold, and was driven away by the 
Indians. 

1524. — The king of Spain having 
granted Florida to Guerray, his succes- 
sor, Allyon, attempted to seize the 
country, but was repulsed by the na- 
tives. 

1528. — Pamfilo de Narvaez, with four 
hundred foot and forty horse, after many 
sufferings, and much perfidious conduct 
toward the Indians, lost almost all his 
men ; eighty only reached Mexico in 
boats. 

1539. — Fernando de Soto next at- 



410 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF FLORIDA. 



tempted to occupy the country, having 
sold his claims on the Peruvian con- 
quest, to which he had contributed, for 
one and a half millions. Landing at 
Tampa bay with one thousand men, and 
assisted by Ortez, a survivor of the last 
expedition, who was a favorite with a 
chief in the interior, he proceeded far 
without interruption, treating the na- 
tives with kindness, until he had won 
their confidence, and had an opportunity 
to seize one of their large towns. A 
numerous body of Indians ambushed 
him some time after, but were repulsed 
in an obstinate battle. He pursued his 
way through Florida, though bravely 
and powerfully resisted; and, led on by 
the hope of finding gold, two years 
afterward died on the Red river, having 
crossed the Cumberland mountains and 
the Mississippi. 

1562. — A Huguenot colony, sent out 
from France by Admiral Coligny, ar- 
rived on the coast, but proceeding north, 
landed at Beaufort. After extreme suf- 
ferings, however, they abandoned their 
undertaking. 

1564. — A second and larger colony 
was established at May river, supposed 
to be the St. John's, where they built 
Fort Caroline, six leagues from the sea. 
General Menendez sailed from Spain to 
destroy them, as heretics, as his catholic 
majesty had received from the pope a 
grant of the new wor^n, on condition 
that he should convert the Indians to the 
Romish faith. He succeeded, partly by 
perfidy, in butchering the colonists; and 
in revenge, the Chevalier Dominique de 
Gourges, though born a Romanist, led 
an expedition to Florida, and, with the 
assistance of a body of Indians, cut off 
the Spaniards at Caroline. Finding the 
remains of his countrymen hanging on 
trees, with the inscription: "Not as 
Frenchmen, hut as heretics,'^ he hung 
the Spaniards in their places, and put 
up signs bearing these words : *' Not as 
Spaniards, hut as devils." 

1574. — Menendez, governor of Saint 
Augustine, sent out many friars among 
the Indians. 

1583. — The last of the Indian nations 
formed ti'eaties with the Spaniards, and 
a missionary system was established for 



all Florida, the head of which was at 
the Franciscan convent in the capital. 
The convents, whose ruins are now seen 
in different parts, were built about this 
time. 

1702. — Governor Moore's unsuccess- 
ful siege of St. Augustine, with the troops 
of the southern English colonies. Two 
years afterward, by a land-expedition, 
he seized the north of Florida, and ex- 
cited the Indians to revolt and mas- 
sacres. After various Indian wars, in 

1718 — M. Chateauque, fi^om Louisi- 
ana, captured the fort at Pensacola with 
eight hundred Indians, twenty-two years 
after its erection. It was soon retaken 
by a Spanish fleet, but fell again into 
the hands of the French, who demol- 
ished it. 

1725. — Governor Palmer, to retaliate 
for a Spanish and Indian invasion of 
Georgia, laid the country waste to St. 
Augustine. 

1740. — Governor Oglethorpe's expe- 
dition, mentioned in our description of 
South Carolina and Georgia. After an 
invasion of Georgia by the Spaniards, in 

1763 — Florida was ceded to Great 
Britain, when only six hundred poor 
Spaniards were found inhabiting the 
country, and these soon removed to Cuba. 
The land was therefore parcelled out 
among half-pay officers and disbanded 
soldiers, who had served in the Ameri- 
can war; while colonists of different 
classes arrived from Great Britain. 

1767. — New Smyrna, seventy miles 
south of St. Augustine, was settled by 
1,500 Greeks, Corsicans, and others, 
under Dr. Turnbull, who for several 
years treated them with gi-eat injustice 
and barbarity. In 1776, they were 
placed in an independent situation by 
the government, and took up their resi- 
dence in St. Augustine, where many of 
their descendants now reside. 

1781. — Pensacola was besieged and 
taken by the French from Louisiana. 

1783. — Florida was ceded back to 
Spain, and the manufacture of sugar, 
and other entei'prises introduced by the 
English, wei'e abandoned, the British 
subjects leaving the country. The Greek 
colony alone preserved signs of pros- 
perity. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP FLORIDA. 



411 



1811. — Seven commissioners were 
sent to Pensacola by the president of 
the United States, to obtain, if possible, 
a cession of Florida, but were unsuc- 
cessful. The next year, Fernandina 
and Amelia island were captured by 
Com. Campbell and an American force; 
and the place was a great resort of 
smugglers and slave-traders, dui'ing the 
American embargo. 

1813. — The place was restored to the 
Spaniards. 

1814. — Colonel Nichols, with an Eng- 
lish fleet, took Pensacola, and armed 
the Indians against the Americans. On 
the 6th of November, in that yeai", Gen. 
Jackson appeared before Pensacola with 
a strong force, and soon took the place, 
but the British escaped in their ships. 
Gen. Jackson destroyed the fortifica- 
tions and evacuated the place, leaving 
private property wholly uninjured. 

1819. — A treaty of amity, settlement, 
and limits, was concluded between Spain 
and the United States, by which Florida 
was ceded to this country. Gen. Jack- 
son was appointed governor. 

1822. — Florida was made a territory; 
and the following year Tallahassee was 
made the seat of government. 

The improvements made in popula- 
tion, agi'iculture, arts, and commerce, 
have been rapid since that epoch, though 
much retarded for several years by the 
war with the Indians, who, in spite of 
their claim to their own countiy, and the 
bravery and skill with which they de- 
fended it, have been removed beyond 
the Mississippi. 

A careless and wasteful plan of agri- 
culture, too common in some of the 
southern parts of the Union, has ex- 
hausted great tracts of land in Florida. 
Williams says it " has destroyed the na- 
tive fertility of the soil, from the Ches- 
apeake bay to the St. Mary's river, with 
few exceptions. The object has been 
to cultivate as much land and with as 
few hands as possible ; to exhaust the 
soil and turn it common, and then to re- 
move and pursue the same course again, 
upon new land." He remarks that 
abundance of seaweed and marsh mud 
are to be found all along the coast of 
Florida, and that all experience proves 



that it is much less expensive to manure 
old land than to clear the timber from 
new. 

Sea-island cotton on the sea-border, 
and green-seed cotton inland, have here- 
tofore been the principal ci'ops ; but the 
cultivation of sugar is now fast gaining 
the ascendency in the middle and east- 
ern parts of the country ; and experi- 
ments have proved that the cane will 
flourish anywhere, while it is more cer- 
tain and valuable in most places, and 
there can be no danger of glutting the 
market with this article. 

Thei'e are three kinds of sugar-cane 
cultivated in Florida : the Creole, the 
Otaheite, and the Ribbon ; the first of 
which is thought to yield moi-e sugar, 
though slower in ripening. The Rib- 
bon is better adapted to a more northern 
climate, as it ripens in a short time; but 
the grinding is more laborious, on ac- 
count of the superior hardness of the 
stalk. It has another advantage, in not 
fermenting as speedily as the Creole. 
The yellow varieties are preferred south 
of thirty degrees latitude. Transplant- 
ing is best performed at the season of 
ripeness. Excellent stalks have been 
raised six successive years from the 
same roots ; and we are yet unable to 
say how much longer it might be done 
with depreciation. 

In the spring it is useful to cut off" the 
tops several times, to make the plant 
spread and destroy the weeds ; and the 
heads cut off" are excellent food for cat- 
tle and horses. Williams assures us 
that the culture and manufacture are 
carried on with full success on small 
farms, as well as on the largest estates : 
for a press may be made by the farmer, 
at little cost, which will perform the 
work as well or even better, than a mill 
costing ten thousand dollars. This 
branch of business has some peculiar 
advantages, particularly in the small 
amount of labor required in the cultiva- 
tion of a sugar plantation. No work 
upon it is necessary from midsummer 
until harvest, though at that time many 
hands must be employed. 

Indigo was the principal product un- 
der the British, and silk might be well 
made in the northern districts. 



412 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 




cept its southeast and southwest angles. 



This state lies between thirty degrees 
ten minutes, and thirty-five degrees, 
north latitude, and between eight and 
eleven degrees, west longitude from 
Washington. From north to south it 
occupies a tract of land three hundred 
and seventeen miles long, and one hun- 
dred and seventy-four miles broad, con- 
taining forty-six thousand square miles. 
In 1850, the population was numbered 
at 771,650. 

Alabama is situated in the valley of 
Tennessee, and the basin of Mobile, ex- 
The southern part borders on the gulf 



of Mexico for the space of fifty or sixty miles, and is nearly covered with pines, 
and low and level. In the central part it is hilly and vai-ied by prairies, and broken 
and somewhat mountainous in the north. The soil, in the northern portion of the 
state, is excellent ; but in the southei'n, it is sandy and barren. The native trees 
in the northern and middle sections are black and white oak, hickory, poplar, ce- 
dar, chestnut, pine, mulberry, &c. The arable land of southern Alabama, may 
be found mostly on or near to the water-courses, and is called by two different 
names, alluvion and intermediate. The intermediate has a kind of soil between 
the open pine woods and the alluvial river-bottoms. Although it comprises the 
much greater part of the state, it is sterile. It abounds more in the southern 
than in the northern sections, 

Alabama has a number of fine rivers, of which the Mobile is the principal. 
The Alabama is a very fine river, and is navigable to Claiborne, sixty miles above 
its junction, for vessels drawing six feet of water. At the mouth of the Cahawba, 
one hundred and fifty miles further, it has four or five feet of water, and in the 
shallowest places, to the junction of the Coosa and Talapoosa, the rivers by which 
it is formed, it is never less than three feet. 

The Tomhighee is four hundred and fifty miles long, and is navigable for 
schooners to St. Stephen's, one hundred and twenty miles, and for steamboats to 
Columbus, Mississippi, Indeed, it is beatable for the greater part of its course. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP ALABAMA. 



413 



It has a large branch which is called the 
Black Warrior. This river is naviga- 
ble to Tuscaloosa. 

Another river, the Chatahoochee, 
forms a boundary of Alabama ; and the 
northern part is watered by the Tennes- 
see. 

Mobile river, properly the lower part 
of the principal stream in the state, is 
formed by the confluence of two others, 
the principal of which is the Alabama, 
and the second the Tombigbee. And 
the Alabama, in its turn, is formed by 
the Coosa and the Talapoosa. It is to 
be regretted that this incorrect plan in 
naming streams has been adopted here, 
as in some other places, as it leads to 
confusion and often to false impressions. 
A stream should bear one name from 
its source to its mouth, and each branch 
should be named in the same manner. 

The Coosa, which is regarded as the 
main branch of the Alabama, ought to 
have been named as the main stream ; 
and we shall so consider it, and follow 
the order of nature, and the proper 
practice of geographers, in our biief 
desci-iption. It rises in Tennessee, be- 
tween the sources of the Hiwassee and 
Chatahoochee, in latitude thirty-five de- 
grees five minutes south, the highest 
point of all the waters flowing directly 
into the gulf of Mexico, east of the 
Mississippi. The head stream bears 
the name of the Conessauga, and flows 
first in a westwardly direction, and then 
southwestwardly and south. At the dis- 
tance of seventy miles in Georgia, it re- 
ceives the Etowah, and there assumes 
the name of Coosa. About ten miles 
beyond it crosses the line of Alabama, 
and turns southwest, south, and south- 
east, till it receives the Talapoosa and 
changes its name again, as beforemen- 
tioned, to Alabama river, at Coosanda, 
in latitude thirty-two degrees twenty- 
eight minutes, longitude nine degrees 
twenty-two minutes west fi'om Wash- 
ington. In this part of its course, the 
Alabama (or Coosa) flows about four 
hundred miles, including its windings, 
Avhile it gains only two hundred and 
forty, measuring in a straight line, drain- 
ing? an ai'ea of about nine thousand square 
miles. 



The Alabama now flows westwardly 
until it receives the Cahawba, and then 
turns south-southwest, until it is joined 
by the Tombigbee, and changes its 
name to the Mobile. The lower part 
of the channel is no less crooked than 
the upper ; for while the distance in a 
direct line from the Talapoosa is but 
one hundred and twenty miles, the nav- 
igation is not less than two hundred and 
fifty. 

Mobile bay is of a triangular shape, 
about thirty-two miles across, and into 
it empties the Mobile river, by several 
mouths. The outer bar has sixteen feet 
water ; but Dog river bar, which is 
seven miles below the harbor, has only 
eleven. The principal entrance is be- 
tween Dauphin island and Mobile point. 
There is another : the pass of Heron, 
which affords a communication between 
Pascagoula sound and the harbor, be- 
tween Dauphin island and the continent. 
This has six feet of water at middle 
tide, and is taken by steamboats and 
coasting vessels on the way to New Oi-- 
leans, by the Rigolets, Lake Pontchar- 
train, and Bayou St. John. Anchorage 
can be found in any part of that route, 
in mud, shells, and sand. 

The basin of Mobile river contains 
an area of 37,120 square miles, in the 
draining of which that stream and its 
branches perform their parts. It ex- 
tends north to the borders of the basin 
of the Tennessee, and east to that of the 
Chatahoochee. 

When we consider the variety of sur- 
face, soil, and productions, in Alabama 
the extent of its navigable routes, and 
the facilities for commerce, together 
with the mildness of its climate, it might 
seem strange that it should so long 
have remained almost uncultivated and 
uninhabited, if we were not aware of 
the various unfavorable circumstances 
connected with its situation. It has 
been shown, in our notices of the Car- 
olinas, that the colonists near the coast 
remained for a generation ignorant of 
the advantages of the upper country in 
the interior : those elevated regions, 
which enjoy a climate more favorable to 
health and bodily exertion, and abound- 
ing in productions unknown among the 



low, hot, and often sandy and barren 
plains on which they had pitched. 

The feebleness of the young colo- 
nies, the distractions caused among them 
by ignorant and evil counsellors and ru- 
lers, the danger of foreign invasion by 
sea, and still more the fear of the pow- 
erful Indian tribes on their western 
frontiers, afforded sufficient explanation 
for this delay in extending their borders 
in that direction. These reasons apply 
with double force to Alabama, for it lay 
still further beyond ; and, in addition to 
this, the territory was in the vicinity of 
another enemy or rival of the English : 
the French on the Mississippi, A por- 
tion of it, indeed, and that the most im- 
portant part, in fact, the key of the 
whole, was early occupied by them : we 
mean Mobile ; which, being placed at 
the mouth of the chief river, and on a 
good harbor, commanded the whole ac- 
cessible portion of the country. 

Since Alabama has come into the 
possession of the United States, and has 
risen to the dignity of a state, it has had 
to struggle with obstacles arising from 
its backwardness ; and by the superiority 
of New Orleans as a great mart of com- 
merce, long established, the difficulty of 
concentrating business at a small place 
in its neighborhood is much increased. 
The natural obstacles of the interior are 
in many parts great, as may be perceiv- 
ed from some of the paiticulars we have 
given ; and thus several circumstances 
combine, which are likely to retard the 
rapid increase of settlements for some 
time to come. 

The prolonged disputes and contests 
for territory between England, Spain, 
and France, brought an innumerable 
host of evils upon the early colonies, and 
especially upon those most accessible 
to invasion, Alabama lay so far from 
the Atlantic coast, so near to the French 
settlements on the Mississippi, and so 
totally within the Indian territory, that 
an occupation of any part as a British 
colony, or even a visit to it, was not to 
be regarded as a possible thing, for a 
long time. Until the year 1667, there 
had never been any treaty or under- 
standing entered into between England 
and Spain, for the prevention or ar- 



rangement of difficulties arising out of 
conflicting claims to territory in Amer- 
ica. 

It was then, however, happily agreed, 
in due form, between those two powers, 
in a treaty framed by Sir William Go- 
dolphin, that, " the king of Great Brit- 
ain should always possess, in full right 
of sovereignty and property, all the 
countries, islands, and colonies, lying 
and being situated in the West Indies, 
or any part of America, which he and 
his subjects then held and possessed, 
inasmuch that they neither can nor ouo^ht 
to be thereafter contested on any account 
whatsoever." The buccaniers were 
suppressed, and the navigation of the 
American seas was freely opened to 
both nations. It was also agreed, that 
all ships in distress entering any of the 
ports, should be admitted and treated 
with humanity, and freely permitted to 
depart. The Spaniards then gave up, 
by this treaty, all claim to the Caroli- 
nas ; and the prosperity of the British 
colonies would have been increased by 
it, had that power observed it in good 
faith. 

Soon after this event, a treaty of neu- 
trality was concluded between Great 
Britain and France, by which limits 
wei'e fixed, with greater precision than 
before, to the various possessions of 
these three powers in America, and the 
freedom of commerce and navigation 
was better secured. 

But the happy results which might 
naturally have been expected from these 
measures, were greatly diminished by 
the arrogant pretensions advanced by 
one of the religious orders in Spain. 
The Franciscan monks, claiming the 
authority of the pope as paramount to 
international agreements, found means 
to gain a footing in Florida, where, un- 
der the protection and favor of Spanish 
fortresses and troops, they soon gained 
over to their direction the Indians, and 
established a missionary system through- 
out that country, by which they raised 
up a power hostile to Great Britain, as 
a protestant nation, from which a long 
series of evils resulted, that continu- 
ed through several generations. Hence 
arose the hostility of the Florida Indi- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



415 



ans and some of the more northern 
tribes, with many of the disasters which 
they produced ; and hence, and from a 
similar cause, viz., the long and contin- 
ued intrigues and open military expedi- 
tions of the French Jesuits in Canada, 
the sad scenes of fire, murder, and cap- 
tivity, which spread a gloom over the 
history of the colonies of New England 
and New York. 

The planting of the colonies along 
the Mississippi, in the year 1709, is wor- 
thy of notice as one of the great causes 
of the delay in the occupation of the 
territory of this state by the English. 
Louis XIV. of France having granted 
a large tract of land about the mouths 
of that river to Secretary Crozat, the 
settlement was soon commenced ; and, 
although the place was considered by 
the southern British colonists as lying 
within their patent, no attempt was 
made to interrupt the intruders, and the 
steps they were taking were not even 
protested against. The French gradu- 
ally won to their interest some of the 
Indians, and extended plantations in 
different directions, while they establish- 
ed forts and trading stations still further 
in advance. In 1725, they built a fort 
on Alabama river, at a considerable dis- 
tance above its mouth. That position, 
called Fort Alabama, afforded them fa- 
cilities of intercourse with the Creek 
nation, whose hunting grounds extend- 
ed to that vicinity ; and when a friend- 
ly standing had been established with 
them, the Cherokees were, ere long, 
bi'ought into correspondence; and thus 
the foundations were laid of an exten- 
sive rival interest to the British colonies, 
the evil effects of which were long felt. 

To oppose the intrigues of the French, 
who soon brought the Choctaws, Chick- 
asaws, and other tribes, under their in- 
fluence, the president of Carolina em- 
ployed Captain Tobias Fitch, to act as 
his agent among the Creeks, and Colo- 
nel George Chicken among the Chero- 
kees ; but they were unable to prevent 
all connexion between those nations and 
the French, who generally supplied 
them with tomahawks and firearms, 
which they adopted instead of their 
bows and arrows, and thus became far 



more bold, formidable, and destructive 
enemies than they would else have been. 

In 1730, after the colony of Carolina, 
with the extensive territory which it 
then included, had been purchased by 
the crown. Sir Alexander Cumming 
came from England to America, to se- 
cure the friendship of the Cherokees. 
by a formal treaty ; and met the chiefs 
of the nation at Nequassee, a place 
about three hundred miles in the interi- 
or, where he was received on the most 
friendly terms. Five of them accompa- 
nied him to England, where they made 
a treaty of peace and amity, agreeing 
never to trade with any other people but 
the British, to aid and fight for them, 
&c. ; "not to permit the white men 
of any other nation, to build any forts 
or cabins, or plant any corn among them, 
upon lands which belong to the great 
king, to restore runaway negroes, to 
submit to English laws in case of mur- 
der on either side," &c. The Indians 
returned the following year, highly sat- 
isfied with their success. Governor 
Glen, in 1755, had the treaty confirmed, 
and obtained a vast cession of land. 
But this promising aspect of affairs was 
not of long dui'ation ; and the scenes of 
war and distress which followed, as we 
have briefly stated in our accounts of 
the older colonies, condemned the ter- 
ritory of Alabama to the long neglect 
which it suffered, in consequence of the 
hostile state of its savage inhabitants. 

Thus we have seen that a small por- 
tion of the present state of Alabama 
was occupied by the French, early in 
the last century, when, soon afler the 
founding of Louisiana, they built a fort 
at Mobile, and settled at several points 
upon the river ; while the English left 
the territory unoccupied, and made no 
attempt to settle any part of that large 
portion of it which was included in the 
charter of Georgia, so that nearly the 
whole territory remained in the undis- 
puted possession of the Indians. In 
1802, it was ceded to the United States 
by Georgia, and annexed to the Missis- 
sippi territory. In 1817, it was made a 
distinct territory, and on the 2d of Au- 
gust, 1819, admitted as a free and inde- 
pendent state into the American Union. 



416 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



The constitution of Alabama is re- 
markably liberal it its provisions for the 
support of education, as it contains a 
long section on the subject, of which the 
following is the commencement : — 

"Schools and the means of education 
shall for ever be encouraged in this 
state." It requires the legislature to 
take measures to preserve the lands ap- 
propriated for the suppoit of education, 
to apply the funds, &c. The income 
from the lauds is devoted to the support 
of a university. The number of com- 
mon schools is already six hundred and 
fifty, and there are one hundred and 
twenty academies and grammar-schools. 

The constitution likewise secures to 
slaves, accused of any crime higher than 
petty larceny, a trial by a pettit jury. 

Printing was commenced in this 
state sometime between 1810 and 1820; 
but as early as 1821 there were no less 
than eleven newspapers. 

State of the Country, Sfc. — In so new 
and extensive a region as Alabama, im- 
provements must necessarily be back- 
ward, especially where the inhabitants 
are few, and the means of communica- 
tion difficult, where facilities have hard- 
ly been introduced. Commendable en- 
terprise has already been displayed, by 
both the legislature and the people, in 
introducing important improvements, 
and in devising more. That the prog- 
ress of the state, in many important re- 
spects, will hereafter be great, we have 
flattering reason to expect, when we rec- 
ollect the provision made for the gener- 
al and lasting support of education in 
the constitution. Intelligence, litera- 
ture, and science, united with religion, 
must necessarily render a people great 
and happy ; and it is gratifying to see 
that means are employed in Alabama 
for their diffusion. Steam has already 
begun its career of civilization and im- 
provement on both land and water. 

The establishment of steamboats on 
the Alabama river, affords one of the 
principal channels of travelling and 
trade in the state of Alabama. A safe 
and rapid passage is afforded by that 
route from Mobile to Montgomery, the 
head of navigation. Wetumpka, fifty 
miles higher up the river, by water, but 



only eighteen by land, is the highest 
point accessible in light boats. From 
Montgomery to Atlanta, a railroad ex- 
tends 185 miles, whence a stage-road 
of one hundred and thirty miles leads 
to Notasulga, and there the traveller 
finds himself on the Augusta railroad, 
one hundred and thirty-six miles in 
length. The part of this route which 
lies in this state, and most of that part 
in Georgia, is wild and almost uninhab- 
ited. A traveller in 1846 thus describes 
some of the features of this unreclaim- 
ed wildness and the primitive state of so- 
ciety existing among the few people who 
inhabit it : — 

" The whole country through which 
we passed, from Augusta to Montgom- 
ei-y, is as dull and deficient in interest, 
as the most misanthropic could desire. 
It was sufficiently rolling, sometimes 
stony, and had numerous clear rivulets 
meandering on it. But the improve- 
ments were mostly a sad blotch on na- 
ture. It is bad enough to find log-shan- 
ties, slipshod fences, &c., in a decidedly 
fresh and untamed country ; but to see 
these, so old as to be already in their 
dotage, and comparatively little to re- 
deem the general forbiddingness of the 
scene, is, to say the best, the reverse of 
gratification to a traveller. 

" The log-houses on their best estates 
consist of a room at either end, with a 
passage between (but seldom enclosed 
with dooi's), through which a loaded 
team could be driven, and the enclosed 
rooms would generally aflford a tolerably 
distinct view of the opposite scenery 
through the unchuncked double walls. 
The chimneys in most of the country, 
and some of the city houses, from Ma- 
ryland to the Gulf, are placed on the 
outside of one or both ends, and are 
built entirely independent of the houses, 
though connected with the first floor by 
a single fireplace. This may abate a 
little the intense heat of summer; but it 
has a most unsightly and forbidding ap- 
pearance. The best houses are some- 
times painted, and the chimneys are 
well laid up in brick and mortar, while 
those attached to the poorest are more 
fi'equently made of mud and sticks, and 
the surrounding buildings are limited 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



417 



to a rough hovel or two, about as closely 
housed in, as a field under a well-laid 
worm fence. 

" The shuck provided for the winter 
forage of the cattle, is one or more stacks 
of corn-blades or husks, some twelve or 
fifteen feet high, aud five or six in diam- 
eter. The working mules or horses are 
fed with corn ; but all the remainder of 
the quadrupeds betake themselves to 
the woods for brouse. As the range is 
illimitable, and vegetation has a torpid 
existence through the winter, they will 
frequently do very well on it, though 
they have in many cases to go so far for 
it, that they do not think it worth while 
returning to report progress till the feed 
has again become deserving their atten- 
tion at home. Of course, milking the 
cows is out of the question, unless half 
of one's time is used in pursuit of them. 

" Where there are canebrakes, as is 
frequently the case on rich bottom lands, 
the animals have a good winter subsist- 
ence on the young shoots of this gigan- 
tic grass. Its rich evergreen leaves ac- 
quire a palatable nutritiveness after the 
frosts, which it does not possess during 
the summer and autumn, and when 
abundant, cattle will fatten on this alone. 
The swine through this country are the 
vilest brutes a farmer's eye ever rested 
on. They are of all colors, but princi- 
pally black, gi'ay, red, blue, or sti-iped 
and dotted like a hyena, which comely 
beast, and its congener, the wolf, they 
more nearly resemble than any of their 
own well-bred family. Even the fatten- 
ing porkers are only in a passably-grow- 
ing condition, while the nomads could 
hardly lay claim to hide enough to hold 
their bones together. As the stages 
rattled along, they rushed out of the 
woods in all directions, to follow the 
horses. I asked the driver the cause of 
tkeir leanness when the woods were full 
of oaks and chestnuts. lie said the 
former bore no acorns, and the people 
gathered the latter. 

" We were glad to get on a boat at 
Montgomery. Had the river been at 
moderate height, we should have passed 
down the four hundred miles to Mobile 
in two days instead of five, owing to our 
frequently grounding. 



" The Alabama is a fine winding 
stream, hemmed in by banks from twen- 
ty to eighty feet high. These are some- 
times worn, and shelve off" from the ac- 
tion of the stream ; but are generally 
fringed with a great variety of forest- 
trees, shrubs, and frequently the cane, 
which, springing up from the water's 
edge, surmounts the banks, and extends 
for miles in one impenetrable mass. It 
grows from fifteen to twenty feet high, 
straight as an arrow and almost as thick 
as standing wheat. It throws out deli- 
cate branches near the tops, whose 
gracefully tapering foliage, at a distance, 
nearly resembles a field of luxuriant 
hemp, and these become so closely in- 
terwoven at their tops as to resemble 
one vast carpet of resplendent green. 
A variety of beautiful branching ever- 
green, and deciduous oaks, are found on 
the banks and bordering tablelands, and 
occasionally the pine and other resinous 
trees. Here and there a magnolia may 
be seen shooting up with perfect sym- 
metry for fifl:y to seventy feet, and bear- 
ing the dark-hued evergreen leaves, in a 
beautiful cone. In May and June, this 
is gemmed over its entire surface with 
beautiful snowy flowers, five to seven 
inches in diameter and of great fra- 
grance. The cypress that everywhere 
fills up the low grounds south of Vir- 
ginia, is always to be found in its appro- 
priate place here ; and from nearly ev- 
ery tree, of whatever species, the cling- 
ing moss hangs in graceful festoons. 
This appears to be exclusively an air- 
plant. Its slender stem throws out mi- 
nute tendrils or branches, some two in- 
ches long, and about the same distance 
from each other, and it is suspended 
from the twigs solely by the mechanical 
attachment of the stem. When this 
has become dead for a long distance 
from the point of its origin, the fresh 
shoots continue to multiply and grow 
on with undiminished vigor. Cattle are 
said to be fond of it, and if suited to 
impart nourishment to them, it seems 
improvident that such vast quantities of 
it are hung so far above their reach. 
This moss is exported largely to the 
northern states, and is used for stuffing 
cushions, beds, &c. 



27 



418 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



" The soil on both sides of the river is 
almost invariably good, as is much of 
that in central Alabama." 

Montgomery, the capital of the state, 
is built on a high bluff, on the left bank 
and at the head of steamboat navigation, 
on Alabama river, three hundred and 
thirty-eight miles from Mobile by the 
course of the river, and two hundred 
miles in a direct line ; one hundred and 
twelve miles southeast from Tuscaloosa, 
and eight hundred and fifty miles from 
Washington city. Its contains a court- 
house, seven churches, two academies, 
and about seven thousand inhabitants. 
The cotton shipped from this place 
amounts to forty thousand bales annu- 
ally. Montgomery has recently been 
made the capital of the state, and prep- 
arations are already in progress for 
building an elegant statehouse. 

Mobile stands on a low plain, only 
about fifteen feet above the water at 
hiffh tides, but commands a view over 
the spacious harbor, and lies open to 
the sea-breezes. The distance from the 
coast of the gulf of Mexico is thirty 
miles, and from New Orleans, one hun- 
dred and sixty-four. The population is 
aboiit twenty thousand, and the princi- 
pal public buildings ai'e the United 
States naval hospital, courthouse, city 
hospital, three banks, seven churches, 
theatre, and Burton academy. Provision 
has been made for a supply of water for 
the city from Spring Kill, two miles dis- 
tant. The cotton trade of this port is 
very great, the amount received and ex- 
ported annually being larger than that 
of any other city in the Union except 
New Orleans. 

The entrance of the harbor is defend- 
ed by Fort Morgan, on a sandy point 
opposite Dauphin island ; and a light- 
house is erected for ships entering. 
Mobile has been in possession of the 
United States only thirty-four years, 
having been ceded by Spain in 1813. 

Spring Hill College, two miles from 
Mobile, has about four thousand vol- 
umes in its library, and seventy students. 

Steamboats depart daily for New Or- 
leans, Columbus, Miss., and Montgome- 

Tuscaloosa, lately the capital, is sit- 



uated on the left bank of the Black 
Warrior river, in latitude thirty-three 
degrees and twelve minutes, and longi- 
tude ten degrees and forty-three min- 
utes, one hundred and fifty-five miles 
southwest from Huntsville, two hundred 
and seventeen miles a little north of 
east from Mobile, and eight hundred 
and fifty-eight miles southwest from 
Washington, by post-route. Its posi- 
tion is at the foot of the lower falls, at 
the head of steamboat navigation, on an 
elevated plain. The cild statehouse, 
courthouse, land-office, masonic hall, la- 
dies' athaeneum, four churches, academy, 
and institute, are the public buildings. 
The streets are broad, straight, and 
regular, and the inhabitants about five 
thousand. 

The University of Alabama, founded 
in 1828, is situated at the distance of 
one mile from Tuscaloosa. It has a 
library of six thousand volumes, seven 
professors and tutors, and about sixty 
students. The commencement is held 
on Wednesday after the first Monday in 
December. 

Demopolis, on the Tombigbee, two 
hundred and twenty miles from Mobile, 
situated a little below the mouth of the 
Black Warrior river, communicates daily 
with Columbus, Miss., and Mobile, by 
steamboats. Stage-coaches go three 
times a week to Tuscaloosa and Mobile. 
The principal public buildings are three 
churches, two academies, and the land- 
office ; and the population is about one 
thousand. 

Gainesville, a smalltown, about two 
hundred and eighty-three miles from 
IMobile, is on the Tombigbee, and a 
place of much trade in cotton. It con- 
tains only about two hundred inhabi- 
tants, but is daily visited by the steam- 
boats from Columbus and Mobile, and 
stage-coaches go three times a week, to 
the latter place and Jackson in Missis- 
sippi. 

St. Stephen's, with a population of 
one thousand, is the second settlement 
in the state in point of age. It stands 
on the Tombigbee, one hundred miles 
from Mobile, and has two churches, a 
land-office, and an acad my. 

Cahawba, on the west side of Alaba- 



420 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



ma river, two hundred and forty miles 
from Mobile, and once the capital town, 
contains about one thousand inhabitants. 
It has a courthouse, an academy, and 
two churches, and the river steamboats 
touch there daily, while stage-coaches 
go to Mobile, Tuscaloosa, and Hunts- 
ville. 

Selma, sixteen miles above Cahawba, 
on the right bank of the river, has two 
academies, three churches, and about 
on«! thousand inhabitants. 

Fossil Bones, &c. — Alabama, more 
than most other parts of our country, 
abounds in ancient bones, which are 
found in various positions, but most 
abundantly in a peculiar stratum, which 
in some places lies many feet beneath 
the natural surface, but in others, is laid 
bare, or cut through by the wearing 
away of streams of water, &c. In cer- 
tain districts, these remains of ancient 
and often unknown animals, have been 
long familiar to the present inhabitants, 
as well as to their predecessors the In- 
dians ; but their remote situations have 
prevented many of them from being 
either generally seen or accurately do- 
scribed. 

Dr. Koch of Germany made a tour of 
exploration in this and several other 
states, three years- ago, and discovered 
and brought away a collection of bones, 
many of which were exhibited by him 
in our pi'incipal cities. A great num- 
ber of thetn were arranged by him, in 
the order in which he supposed them to 
have been naturally placed, judging 
from their relative positions when dis- 
covered in the earth. When thus pla- 
ced, they seemed to form the skeleton 
of an immense serpent, which the dis- 
coverer named iheHydrargos Sillimanii, 
and described, with a sketch of its prob- 
able habits, food, &c., after the manner 
of many of his predecessors, some of 
whom have published pictures of the 
animals of extinct species, as when re- 
stored, by the addition of the decayed 
flesh, &c. 

Naturalists, however, did not gener- 
ally adopt the opinions of Dr. Koch ; 
and moi'e evidence is thought necessary 
before the existence of such an animal 
can be admitted. The lighter bones 



connected with this skeleton, were found 
in a state of dislocation, particularly 
those which he placed as ribs. The 
vertebrae are so entirely separate, and 
generally so much worn away, by decay 
or attrition, that no evidence of their re- 
lation to each other, could be obtained 
from their form or size ; and their alle- 
ged proximity when discovered, is not 
of itself sufficient gi'ound on which to 
proceed in constructing an animal of 
such an extraordinary kind. Besides, 
the bones placed as the head, and which 
are said to have been fouiid lying at 
that end of the skeleton, but inverted, 
have little or no resemblance to those 
of a serpent's head. 

The parts of which this collection 
consists are unquestionably natural re- 
mains of some gigantic animal or ani- 
mals, and were taken fi-om the earth in 
Alabama; but to what kind of animal, 
or to how many individuals they be- 
longed, we pretend not to decide. They 
present a striking specimen of innumer- 
able remains of a similar kind existing 
in abundance in some parts of Alaba- 
ma : and future discoveries and resear- 
ches may probably shed important light 
upon the interesting subject. 

The following statements we derive 
from a letter of Professor Silliman : — 

"Dr. Koch, the proprietor of the 
skeleton now in this city, made a jour- 
ney of discovery a year since, into Ala- 
bama and other southern regions, with 
particular reference to this animal. He 
had the rare good fortune, as the result 
of his perseverance, aided by the kind 
assistance of the inhabitants, to disinter 
the stupendous skeleton which is now 
set up for exhibition here. 

"It has evidently been done at great 
expense and personal toil ; and the pub- 
lic, while they owe a debt to Dr. Koch, 
will, when paying it, receive a high 
gratification in contemplating the re- 
mains of a race of animals whose length 
exceeded that of all other creatures 
hitherto discovered ; the spinal column 
of this skeleton as now arranged meas- 
ures one hundred and fourteen feet in 
length. The skeleton having been 
found entire enclosed in limestone, evi- 
dently belonged to one individual, and 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



\2\ 



there is the fullest ground for confidence 
in its genuineness. The animal was 
marine and carnivorous, and at his death 
was imbedded in the ruins of that an- 
cient sea which once occupied the region 
where Alabama now is ; having myself 
recently passed 400 miles down the Al- 
abama river, and touched at many pla- 
ces, I have had full opportunity to ob- 
serve, what many geologists have affirm- 
ed, the marine and oceanic character of 
the country. 

"Judging from the abundance of the 
remains (some of which have been sev- 
eral years in my possession), these ani- 
mals must have been very numerous, 
and doubtless fed upon fishes and other 
marine creatures — the inhabitants of a 
region, then probably of more than trop- 
ical heat ; and it appears probable also, 
that this animal frequented bays, estua- 
ries, and seacoasts, rather than the main 
ocean. As regards the nature of the 
animal, we shall doubtless be put in pos- 
session of Professor Owen's more ma- 
ture opinion, after he shall have review- 
ed the entire skeleton. I would only 
venture to suggest, that he may find lit- 
tle analogy with whales, and much more 
with lizards, according to Dr. Harlan's 
original opinion. 

" Among the fossil lizards andsaurus, 
this resembles most the pleisiosaurtis , 
from which, however, it differs very de- 
cidedly. 

" Most observers will probably be 
struck with the snake-like appearance 
of the skeleton. It differs, however, 
most essentially from any existing or 
fossil serpent, although it may counte- 
nance the popular (and I believe well- 
founded) impression of the existence in 
our modern seas, of huge animals to 
which the name of sea-serpent has been 
attached. For a full and satisfactory 
statement of the evidence on this sub- 
ject, see a communication by Dr. Bige- 
low of Boston in the second volume of 
the American Joui'nal." 

Projected Improvements. — Among 
the projects for improvements which 
now attract the attention of the people 
of this state, is the establishment of a 
line of transpoitation on a grand scale. 
A glance at the principal river and its 



branches, is sufficient to discover, that 
thousands of miles lie along and near 
their borders>; and that, even were the 
proportion of land susceptible of culti- 
vation much less than it is, sufficient 
would still remain to furnish support for 
an immense population, if judiciously 
managed, and furnished with convenient 
means of sending the products to mar- 
ket. The steamboats already plying 
daily upon the main stream, and the 
railroads now in use, with the advanta- 
ges which they afford, intimate what 
further benefits might be secured by ex- 
tending the improvements to every part 
of the state which may be accessible to 
them. But something more than this is 
contemplated, by a system of public 
works proposed to the people. 

The western parts of Georgia and 
South Carolina are still unprovided with 
adequate channels of transportation ; and 
the slightest examination of the maps, 
will go far to justify the assertion of 
those who maintain, that it is easy to 
adopt measures now which shall bring 
all their trade to Mobile. The exten- 
sion of steamboat routes as far as possi- 
ble upon the streams, then a resort to 
railroads, and finally the improvement 
and multiplication of common roads, it 
is insisted, will accomplish this ; while 
the profits can hardly fail to justify and 
richly to rewai'd the expense, and in a 
moderate period. 

But this is not all. The valley of the 
Tennessee river is separated from that 
of the Alabama by only a narrow ridge ; 
and if that barrier can be surmounted, 
another very rich and extensive region 
will be added to the vast commercial 
territory of Mobile. It is proposed to 
construct a railroad across that tract ; 
and thus to draw off" the trade which 
seeks a slow and difficult channel down 
the Tennessee to the Mississippi. But 
the system of improvements projected 
stops not here. The route may be ex- 
tended noithward ; and it is seriously 
proposed to carry it to the mouth of the 
Ohio. From Selma to the Tennessee, 
a railroad route has been surveyed, and, 
part of it graded ; but the v/ork has 
been abandoned, at least for the present. 
Such favorable views, however, are held 




forth, that it is supposed the project will 
yet be accomplished. From some of 
the recent publications on the subject, 
we derive the following facts respecting 
the country along the route. It will be 
perceived that the mineral treasures now 
embosomed in the earth, and of little or 
no value on account of their inaccessible 
position, are among the chief advantages 
promised by the advocates of the plan 
of improvement. The coal lands abound- 
ing in that region, are capable of afford- 
ing abundant supplies of fuel for the use 
of steamships in all parts of the gulf of 
Mexico, and steamboats on the rivers, as 
well as for the locomotives on railroads, 
so far as it may be wanted. 

The distance from Selma to the Ten- 
nessee river, by a line running north, is 
about one hundred and fifty miles ; and 
the point at which it would be reached 
is at Decatur. Such a line would pass 
through the midst of the coal region, 
and those parts of it which border on 
the Cahawba and Warrior rivers. Be- 
tween Mulberry creek and Cahawba 
river, the line passes along the water- 
shed ; and there the soil is peculiarly fa- 
vorable for the construction of a sub- 
stantial road, consisting of cretaceous 
lime-i'ocks, of a very solid description. 
The Cahawba coal-field commences at 
Centreville, and is crossed by the line, 
as is that part of the coal-region called 
the Warrior coal-field, which lies just 
beyond the Mulberry fork, in the east- 
ern part of Walker county. 

From that part of Decatur the coun- 
try is of a different formation, but of a 
very solid, firm nature for a railroad, 
being of granite. Decatur is a town oi 
considerable business, being advantage- 
ously situated for trade, at the head of 
the falls of the Tennessee, at the foot 
of an extensive line of navigation on 
that river above the falls, and with the 
advantages of a railroad to Tuscumbia, 
on the part of the river below the falls. 

But another route is also proposed, 
which offers some important advantages 
to recommend it, not promised by that 
just described. There is a railroad al- 
ready formed and in use, between Mont- 
gomery and Westpoint, to which we 
have before alluded. A route laid out 



from some convenient point on that, to 
Tennessee river, would be about one 
hundred and forty miles long, only one 
hundred of which remains to be provi- 
ded for, and this would cost but about 
ten thousand dollars a mile, including 
machinery, &c. Of course, the whole 
expense of the one hundred miles, at 
this estimate, would be but a million of 
dollars ; which the results would well 
warrant, if the anticipations entertained 
should prove well founded. If the pro- 
posed work should commence at Mount 
Jefferson (a point on the Montgomery 
and Westpoint railroad), it would pass 
through the counties of Chambers, Tal- 
lapoosa, Randolph, Tallede^a, and Ben- 
ton, to the Double Springs, on Coosa 
river, and thence forty nnles to Gunter's 
Landing, on the Tennessee, on which 
part a railroad has already been project- 
ed, and funds appropriated. This route 
has therefore but one hundred miles of 
railroad to be provided for, is much 
shorter than the other (from Selma to 
Decatur), and passes through a more 
fertile and populous part of the state, 
and a region rich in minerals of value. 

A chief object proposed by the friends 
of these improvements is, to connect 
the interests of the two parts of the 
state. Northern and southern Alabama 
are now so far divided, by having differ- 
ent channels of trade, that but little of 
that sympathy exists between them, 
which is so desirable in the same state, 
and necessary to its harmony and pros- 
perity. Plans are proposed in Georgia, 
for the opening of new routes of trans- 
port, by which the trade of the north- 
eastern counties is likely to be perma- 
nently drawn off into other channels. 
The railroad just described would effec- 
tually counteract such measures, and at 
the same time prove so convenient to 
the northwestern parts of the adjoining 
state, that several large counties of 
Georgia would become tributary, in a 
commercial point of view, to the city of 
Mobile. 

Alabama has thus much to expect 
from the extension of internal improve- 
ments. Although, by circumstances, 
she has been long prevented from ma- 
king rapid progress, and was even so 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



423 



situated, as to be unable to begin for a 
century or more after her older sisters 
of the Union, her exertions made since 
she has had the power, are very credit- 
able to her leading men, and the results 
have been such as to stimulate her to 
new projects and new labors. Notwith- 
standing the obstacles and discourage- 
ments presented to the extension of in- 
ternal navigation and railroads, there 
are doubtless streams remaining, on 
which steamboats may hereafter be run 
with advantage, and numerous tracks 
may be laid through the most important 
districts, by which places now unpro- 
vided with the means of transport, may 
be rendered accessible. There are, for- 
tunately, large deposites of coal and oth- 
er minerals in different parts of the 
state, which must afford a rich reward 
to the enterprise of those who shall open 
channels of transportation, by which 
they can be brought to the manufactory 
and the steam-furnace ; while the impor- 
tant advantages to be expected from the 
opening of intercourse between distant 
points of the state and other districts 
more distant, will annually increase, and 
become stronger incitements to men of 
business to give them an improved di- 
rection, and to bring them within their 
own reach. 

However important may be this de- 
partment of the public interest, and how- 
ever much praise the state may deserve 
for her early and spirited attention to it, 
it is but of a physical kind, and, from its 
own nature, necessarily inferior to the 
intellectual and moral objects for which, 
as we have before remarked, provision 
is made in the constitution of the state. 
If the spirit of that article should be 
carried into operation, as promptly and 
efficiently and with as much perse- 
verance as has been displayed in the in- 
troduction and extension of steam-routes 
by land and water, greater real advan- 
tages would be secured, and a still more 
substantial foundation would be laid for 
the future greatness of the state. In- 
dustry, commerce, and wealth, may be 
pursued too exclusively, to the neglect 
of education. Such must be allowed to 
be the case in our country generally. 
If any one of our states should have 



the wisdom to choose the opposite course 
and to pui'sue it, what evidences of fun- 
damental improvement would ere long 
begin to ajjpear. Schools would not 
only be opened, but well-filled, well-fur- 
nished, and well-taught. Academies and 
colleges would enjoy the pati'onage and 
respect of the public, as well as an oc- 
casional donation from the state treas- 
ury. Men would be placed in the gen- 
eral direction of education, not because 
of their political connexions, ability in 
intriguing, or want of office ; but for 
their intellectual and moral merits, and 
their known qualifications to perform 
well and faithfully those important du- 
ties. And they should be secured 
against the evil influence of change in 
politics. They should be protected 
against those subversive movements, 
which have more than once overthrown 
systems of education, devised and put 
in operation in other states, merely be- 
cause they were the works of a party 
no longer in power. In short, the best 
men in Alabama, should be at once 
called upon to take into their hands this 
great business, invested with all author- 
ity necessary, and furnished with every 
facility requisite to favor the most exten- 
sive and rapid improvement, and insure 
the greatest regularity and permanenc- 
Even the fear of improper interference 
should be prevented ; and then, with 
such measures as good men might de- 
vise, such zeal and perseverance as they 
might be expected to display, and such 
cooperation and support as the people 
might be soon brought to afford to them, 
the whole face of society must soon be 
essentially improved, and, in a single 
generation, every department of busi- 
ness, and every town, village, and fam- 
ily, would share in the benefits. 

Although some other regions are more 
attractive to the masses of emigrants, 
Alabama has received a large increase 
of population since the commencement 
of her short history as a territory and 
a state. The northern counties, be- 
tween 1810 and 1820, experienced an 
increase of inhabitants of two hundred 
and twenty-two per cent. These are 
the counties of Franklin, Jackson, 
Lauderdale, Lawrence, Madison, Mor- 



J 



424 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



gan, and Limestone, and belong to what 
we have before spoken of as the Ten- 
nessee section of the state. On the five 
thousand and sixty square miles which 
they comprise, the population which, in 
1810, was only forty-six thousand, in 
1820 had increased to one hundred and 
two thousand. Like our other states, 
especially the new ones, Alabama ex- 
periences the various evils arising from 
the mixture of people of different, and 
often foreign origin ; and these may be 
mi)6t speedily and effectually overcome 
by a universal, sound, and thorough 
system of common schools, operating 
simultaneously and harmoniously with 
high schools and universities. Men 
who have been educated together in 
childhood and youth, will feel more like 
fellow-citizens through life ; especially 
if the education be good, and more es- 
pecially if it be the best. The public 
interests of all descrij^tions, imperious- 
ly demand such a system for the whole 
country; and whatever state shall lead 
the way, first and best, will most wisely 
consult its own permanent good, and in- 
evitably secure, for the future, the high- 
est place for itself among the benefac- 
tors of the nation, and the directors of 
its destiny. 

The Magnolias. — Having described 
some of the chief vegetable productions 
belonging to some of the states, before 
closing our account of them, on the pre- 
ceding pages, we may perhaps properly 
introduce here a description and history 
of the magnolias, the finest of which 
are common to most of the southern 
states. For the following facts, re- 
specting this elegant genus of plants, 
we have been largely indebted to a late 
work : " The Trees of America, by D. 
J. Browne." 

The several species, ranged under the 
genus Magnolia, form a splendid collec- 
tion, which it would perhaps be impos- 
sible to rival in the world. They are 
indigenous to the southern parts of 
North America, but nowhere on our 
southern continent; while in the east- 
ern hemisphere they are not to be found 
as natives either in Europe, Africa, or 
Australia. In Asia, are several species, 
but only in China and Japan, unless, 



perhaps, in Hindostan. The most hardy 
species are some of our own ; and these 
are extensively cultivated in England 
and the middle and southern countries 
of Europe, and are able to endure the 
winters without protection. Even the 
less hardy species usually succeed there. 
But in the north of Europe they can 
not live through the year, out of the 
greenhouse. In England, the seeds will 
not often come to maturity ; but in 
France they ripen well. All the spe- 
cies are much admired, for the beauty 
of their forms and their flowers. The 
most elegant, however, is the grandiflo- 
ra, which abounds in the southern states 
of the Union, and will be the last de- 
scribed. 

The Glaucous-leaved Magnolia {M. 
glauca), called the white bay and the 
sweet bay in our southern states, is 
known in more noitherly parts of our 
country by various names ; swamp-sas- 
safras, swamp-son-el, swamp-magnolia, 
beaver- wood, and small laurel. It bears 
the specific name of glauca, among bot- 
anists, on account of the sea-green col- 
or of its leaves ; and the name of bea- 
ver-ti'ee, given it in certain parts of the 
Union, is owing to its roots being eaten 
with great avidity by beavers. Accord- 
ing to Micheaux, those animals prefer 
it, when felling timber to construct their 
dams, because the softness of its woods 
renders it very easy for them to gnaw. 

This species is sometimes found foity 
feet in height, and ten or twelve inches 
in diameter ; but not usually above 
twenty feet. The trunk is crooked, and 
divides into several limbs. The bark is 
gray and bitter to the taste ; the leaves 
are five or six inches long, of a shining 
bluish green above, and greenish be- 
neath. It is often an evergreen ; and 
even when not strictly so, sometimes re- 
tains many of its leaves through the 
winter. 

The flowering begins in the South 
late in April or early in May, and often 
continues in autumn. In New England 
it begins about six weeks later. The 
flowers grow from the extremities of 
the shoots of the previous years, and 
are two or three inches broad, with six 
white concave petals. The fragrance 



is peculiarly rich and powerful, being 
perceptible at a distance ; and, when 
kept in a close room, soon becoming al- 
most insupportable. The seed-vessel is 
of a ccnica.l shape, about an inch and 
a half in length, full of little cells, which 
open and let the seeds drop out. They 
are, however, attached to slender thi'eads, 
which hold them hanging for some time 
in the air. This peculiarity belongs to 
all the magnolias. 

The glaucous-leaved magnoliahas two 
varieties : the arborea, or tall, and the 
semper vir ens, or evergreen ; and there 
are several others, some of which are 
supposed to be hybrids. 

This species is the most extensive in 
its geographical range near the sea, be- 
ing found further north than any other 
of the magnolias. The highest spot 
whei'e it has been observed, is said to 
be a sheltered swamp in Manchester, 
Cape Ann, about thirty miles beyond 
Boston. It is there but a small tree, 
and is frequently cut down to the ground 
by severe frosts. In Florida and Lou- 
isiana, it is abundant in wet situations, 
and in Georgia and the Carolinasis con- 
fined to the pine barrens. 

The wood is sometimes used for join- 
ers' tools, while the bark is sometimes 
administered in cases of fever. 

The Umbrella Magnolia ( M. tripcta- 
la), often called the umbrella-tree, and, 
in Virginia, elkwood, is remarkably 
uniform and graceful in the arrangement 
of its leaves. The shoots have a resem- 
blance to the young horns of the elk ; 
and hence probably the origin of the 
name by which it is known in the moun- 
tainous regions of Virginia. The leaves 
are deciduous and lanceolate, petals 
nine, the outer ones pendant. It is very 
seldom higher than thirty-five or forty 
feet, or thicker than five or six inches, 
and usually much smaller. The stem is 
commonly inclined. The leaves are 
oval and acuminate at both ends, near 
twenty inches long, and seven or eight 
wide. Being thus long and narrow, and 
often growing around a centre, they 
give the appearance of an umbrella ; 
and, when adorned with the flowers, 
which are about eight inches in diame- 
ter, in May and June, present an ob- 



ject of great beauty. The fragrance 
emitted is strong. 

In October the fruit becomes ripe, 
and it is five inches in length, of a rich 
rose color, with thirty or more seeds. 
It is found as high as the northern coun- 
ties of New York, and with the M. 
grandiflora on the alluvial grounds of 
Georgia. Since its introduction into 
England in 1752, it has been extended 
in Europe, and is said to be the most 
common of the magnolias on the conti- 
nent. It requires a sheltered and shady 
position. It is best propagated from 
seeds, which must be planted very soon 
after they fall. It is shoi-t-lived, and its 
wood is of no use ; but it is one of the 
most ornamental trees. 

The Large-leaved Magnolia (M. ma- 
crofylla) has very large deciduous leaves, 
oblong-ovate, of about the same size as 
the preceding, but much more rare. 
The bark is smooth and white, by which 
it is easily known in the winter. The 
leaves are not less than thirty-five inches 
long in the forests, slender and pointed, 
and of a light green. In May, June, 
and July, it puts forth large flowers, 
sometimes eight or nine inches in diam- 
eter, with a purple spot in the centre, 
and a rich odor. The fruit nearly re- 
sembles that of the preceding variety. 

This plant was discovered by the elder 
Michaux in 1789, and first sent to Eu- 
rope in 1800. The largest individual 
in England is at Arley Hall, which, in 
1837, was twenty-eight and a half feet 
high. It is raised from seeds with 
greater facility and certainty than in any 
other way. 

The Pointed-leaved Magnolia (M. acu- 
minata), called the cucumber-tree in 
this country, and the blue magnolia in 
England, grows most abundantly on the 
rivers of upper Georgia and western 
South Carolina. This is one of the no- 
blest of our forest-trees, growing to the 
height of sixty feet, and in May, adorn- 
ed with bluish or yellowish white flow- 
ers, five or six inches broad, with a del- 
icate odor. It is called the cucumber- 
tree, from the resemblance of its fruit or 
seed-vessel to cucumbers when green. 
There are several varieties of this spe- 
cies, chiefly distinguished by the shape 



426 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



of the leaf. Of these the principal is 
the heart-leaved cucumber-tree. It was 
introduced into England in 1801. It 
attains the height of forty or fifty feet, 
and bears leaves from four to six inches in 
length, and from three to five in breadth. 
It blooms in April, and the flowers are 
yellow, streaked with reddish within, 
and three or four inches in diameter. 

The acuminate magnolia grows as far 
north as Niagara, and abounds in the 
Cumberland mountains. It was discov- 
ered in 1736, by John Bartram, sent to 
England to Peter Collingson, and soon 
propagated in Europe by layers. Ti-ees 
of large size are now numerous in Eng- 
land, France, and northern Italy, forty 
and sixty feet in height, which bloom 
abundantly. In the old Baitram botan- 
ic garden, near Philadelphia, is one 
eighty feet high, and three feet in diam- 
eter, which was brought from Lake Erie 
in 1753, and furnishes most of the seeds 
of this species annually sent to Europe. 
Moist situations on declivities or narrow 
valleys are favoi'able to this species. 

The wood is remarkably light and 
chosen for canoes. Where it abounds 
it is used for joiner- work. 

The Ear-leaved Magnolia (M. auri- 
colata), or longleaved cucumber-tree, is 
also known in some parts of the United 
States by the name of Indian physic and 
washoo. The leaves are deciduous 
and smooth, spatulately obovate, cordate 
at the base, with blunt approximate au- 
ricles. It gi'ows to the height of thirty 
or forty feet, straight, with wide branch- 
es pointing upward. The leaves are 
eight or nine inches in length, four or 
six wide, and of a light green ; and, on 
young trees, often much larger. There 
is a round lobe on each side of the peti- 
ole. The footstalks are short and radi- 
ating, which gives the clusters of leaves 
the form of an umbrella. It flowers in 
April and May, and the petals are white. 
It is found on a poi'tion of the Allegany 
range, in North Carolina; and a variety 
of it in the western parts of Georgia 
and Carolina. The bark is infused in 
spirits for a sudorific in fevers. 

The Conspicuous-leaved, Magnolia is a 
Chinese tree, and the 'Purple-Flowered 
Magnolia is a native of Japan ; and 



neither of them has been extensively 
introduced into the United States. 

The Magnolia Grrandiflara, or large- 
leaved magnolia, we have yet to notice, 
and this is the most splendid spacies of 
the kind, the most admired and the most 
cultivated. It is known by several oth- 
er names in different parts of this coun- 
try : as the laurel-leaved and large flow- 
ering evergreen magnolia, bay-tree, lau- 
rel-bay, and big laurel. 

It is an evergreen, with oval-oblong 
leaves, shining on their upper surface, 
and rusty beneath. The flowers are 
erect, with from nine to twelve petals, 
expanding. " Of all the trees of North 
America," says Browne, "the large- 
leaved magnolia is the most remarkable 
for the majesty of its form, the magnifi- 
cence of its foliage, and the beauty of 
its flowers. It claims a place among 
the largest trees of the forest, varying 
from one hundred feet and upward in 
height, and from two to three in diame- 
ter. Its head often forms a perfect 
cone, placed on a clean, straight trunk, 
resembling a beautiful column ; and, 
from its dark green foliage, silvered over 
with milk-white flowers, it is seen at a 
great distance." 

The leaves are from half a foot to a 
foot in length, and three or four inches 
broad, smooth and polished, and vary- 
ing considerably in form, being oblong, 
oval, acuminate, &c., &c. In our south- 
ern states, the flowers appear in April 
or May, but in the north, as in England 
and France, in June or July ; and some 
of the varieties continue in blossom un- 
til the frost. In the size of the flowers, 
as well as that of the entire plant, this 
splendid species excels its congeners : 
their diameter being from six to ten inch- 
es. The lengthof the flowering season, 
is another very great advantage : most 
of the other species of magnolia giving 
out their flowers at once, and soon drop- 
ping them. In autumn, when the seed- 
vessels are left bare, they exhibit a beau- 
tiful and delicate appearance, being con- 
ical, and, when they open, dropping out 
a few seeds, which remain for several 
days hanging by slender filaments. Be- 
ing of a blood-red color, they make a 
very rich and striking display. 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF ALABAMA. 



427 



Peculiar attention has been directed 
to the M. magniflora by foreign garden- 
ers, and numerous varieties have been 
produced, w^hich have been regarded by 
some as distinct races. Among these 
are distinguished the obovate, round- 
leaved, Exmouth, rusty-leaved, lanceo- 
late-leaved, elliptic-leaved, &c. 

The native regions of the splendid 
tree is comprised w^ithin the maritime 
districts of South Carolina, Georgia, 
Florida, Alabama, and Louisiana ; and 
up the Mississippi to Natchez, extend- 
ing a little way into North Carolina and 
Texas on the Brazos. It was introdu- 
ced into France in 1732, but not extend- 
ed until after 1760. It was admired by 
the Indians, who used the bark of the 
roots, mixed with snakeroot, in fevers. 

The propagation of this noble and el- 
egant tree may well excite particular in- 
terest in Alabama, as well as in other 
of our southern regions, to which the 
soil and climate adiipt it. As twenty or 
thirty years' growth is necessary to 
bring one of the plants from the seed to 
the first flowering season, that manner 
of propagation should never be resorted 
to, for purposes of ornament. If layers 
are resorted to, they must remain two 
years before they are ready to be potted. 
Care is required, in transplanting them, 
to place the earth well about the roots, 
and to keep it well shaded for several 
weeks. The Exmouth varieties some- 
times bears flowers the second year, 
with gi'eat care. 

Among the objects worthy of the at- 
tention of men of taste and public spir- 
it in Alabama, and our other new states, 
is the planting of shade-trees in the 
towns and villages : among which the 
magnolias hold a prominent place, espe- 
cially the grandiflora. 

Natural Bridge in Alabama. — The 
Natural Bridge over Cedar creek, near 
Lexington, in Virginia, has been noticed 
at length on a previous page, in our 
description of the beautiful scenery of 
that state. Alabama, too, possesses a 
" natural bridge," which is spoken of as 
rivalling the far-famed one of Virginia. 
Professor Toumey of Alabama, state 
geologist, and an associate, have recently 
been traversing that state, investigating 



its geological character. While their at- 
tention was attracted to many natural 
wonders in the more mountainous le- 
gions, the most conspicuous among them 
was the "natural bridge" whiqh they de- 
scribed as follows : — 

" It is situated in Walker county, 
about a mile from the road, and on the 
property of a man by the name of West, 
but yet would well repay a traveller by 
the beauty of the scenery for deviating 
a little from his regular route. It oc- 
curs in that geological deposite termed 
the millstone grit, the lowest one in the 
coal measures — the only rock which, in 
Alabama, exhibits the truly wild and 
romantic grandeur of Nature. Before 
reaching it, our imaginations had been 
considerably elevated by the descriptions 
given by our guide ; but, notwithstand- 
ing, when the reality broke upon us in 
its full magnificence, we found that our 
expectations fell very far short of the 
truth. This grand structure of the Great 
Architect spans about one hundred and 
twenty feet, while its height is about 
seventy. A smaller bridge connects it 
with the bluff' beyond. 

" The symmetry of the main arch will 
make it almost indestructible, though of 
course its regularity has only been pro- 
duced by the undermining and breaking 
down of the rock which, at some by- 
gone time, existed below it. The cleav- 
age marks of the massive sandstone of 
which it is formed cause it, even in the 
more minute construction, to resemble 
an artificial bridge, as these lines make 
it appear as if built with regularly- 
worked blocks. Beneath it are many 
pieces of broken and partially water- 
worn rocks — materials, as it were, left 
by the builders ; and these, together 
with the mighty escarpments round 
about, would impart a most grand as- 
pect, even if that were not produced by 
the bridge itself. A little spring trickling 
from between these broken ma.sses make 
it a frequent resort of the deer, which 
abound in that part of the counti-y, and 
whose numerous footprints on the soft 
soil indicate a favorite lick. Lofty hem- 
locks and beech trees growing on the 
bridge, and near by, shade it from the 
rays of the sun." 



428 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI 




A Wooding Station on the Mississippi. 

MISSISSIPPI. 

This state is bounded north by 
Tennessee, east by Alabama, sonrh 
by the gulf of Mexico and Louis- 
iana, and west by Louisiana and 
Arkansas, from which it is separated 
by the Mississippi river. It lies 
between 30° 8' and 35° north lat- 
itude, and 10° 12' and 12° 42' west 
longitude, from Washington. Its 
entire outline measures ] ,203 miles, 
of which large portions lie along 
the Mississippi and the Tennessee. 
Extreme length from noith to south, 
337 miles; mean breadth, 135 mile"; 
area, 45,760 square miles. 
There is a gentle declivity in the east part of the state toward the Tombigbee 
river; but the grand general slope is toward the Mississippi, having abrupt bluffs 
at a considerable distance from the bank, and leaving a wide, low tract of land 
between them, which is subject to inundations. That part of the state is crossed 
by the following streams, which are small tributaries of the great river of North 
America, viz. : Yazoo, Big Black, Bayou, Pierre, and Homochitto. Pearl river, 
a considerable stream, has its source in the central part of the state; and flowing 
south-southwest, nearly parallel with the Big Black, for a distance of eigh«^y miles, 
then turns south-southeast, runs one hundred and fifty miles, and empties ^nto the 
Rigolets between Lake Pontchartrain and Boyne. 

The soil of the state is generally thin, but in some places very rich, especially 
on the narrow border of lowlands along the bank of the Mississippi, above men- 
tioned. Cotton, indigo, and tobacco, flourish so well, that they have been, in 
turns, the staple productions. Indian corn, potatoes, and various other useful 
plants, are also cultivated with great success. 




DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 



429 



Among fruits, peaches and figs are the 
most abundant ; but the climate is favor- 
able to almost every kind except those 
confined to the tropics. The indigenous 
trees most abundant ai'e the pine, oak 
of different varieties and species, hic- 
kory, sweetgum, liriodendron, tulip-tree, 
beech, persimmon, blackwalnut, black- 
locust, honeylocust, redmaple, dogwood, 
chinquipin, spicewood, papau, &c. The 
great reedcane (arundo gigantea) for- 
merly abounded in the low grounds ; but 
it has been nearly rooted out. 

The temperature at Natchez is varia- 
ble, and, although usually mild in win- 
ter, has sometimes been as cold as twelve 
degrees, Fahrenheit, above zero. Frost 
is always experienced there, in some 
degree, in the course of the cold season, 
and snow is occasionally seen ; so that 
it is not surprising that neither sugar- 
cane nor orange-trees are to be found 
above thirty-one degrees of latitude. 
The climate is about two degrees colder 
than on the Atlantic. In summer, heats 
and drought are often unintermitted for 
a long period. The state is generally 
healthy, although intermittent fevers are 
common along the banks of some of the 
streams. The prevailing winds, as in 
the southwestern states generally, are 
westerly, and chiefly from the north- 
west. 

The first settlement made in this state 
by Europeans was by the French at 
Natchez in 1716, when a fort was built 
by permission of the Indians, a power- 
ful tribe, who inhabited the bluff. In 
1723 the foi-eigners were involved in a 
war with the natives, which was ter- 
minated by a body of French troops 
marched from New Orleans by Governor 
Bienville, who were too powerful to be 
resisted by the savages, and they sub- 
mitted. 

In 1729, the French having become 
very numerous at Natchez, the com- 
mandant (Choteau), by ill-treating the 
Indians, excited them to revenge; and 
by a sudden attack, while the gan-ison 
were secure and unprepared, they cut 
off about seven hundred persons, of 
both sexes, leaving alive scarcely enough 
to carry the news. The Indians, how- 
ever, were soon driven from their homes 



by the fear of their powerful enemies ; 
and as the French made no further at- 
tempt to occupy the place, it was left 
desolate until the year 1763, when it was 
ceded to Great Britain. From that time 
a few respectable settlers arrived from 
Europe, New England, and elsewhere ; 
but the events which took place for some 
years sul)sequently were very unfavor- 
able to the populating of the country. 

The fort at Natchez was taken sev- 
eral times by the Spaniaids, English, and 
Americans. In 1781, Governor Galvey, 
of Louisiana, conquered Florida, and by 
the treaty of Paris it was ceded to the 
United States. 

On the 7th of April, 1798, congress, 
by an act, authorized the president of 
the United States to appoint commis- 
sioners to adjust the claims between 
Florida, Louisiana, and the acquired ter- 
ritory north of latitude thirty-one de- 
grees and west of Chatahoochee river ; 
and on the 10th of that month made 
provision for a territorial government. 
A territory was therefore formed, and 
named Mississippi territory, which in- 
cluded, not only the present state of 
Mississippi, but also that of Alabama. 
An act of congress was passed on the 
9th of July, 1808, admitting a delegate 
from Mississippi; and on the 17th of 
June the assent of Georgia was de- 
manded to the formation of two states 
out of Mississippi territory. But, al- 
though the demand was acceded to, it 
was not until December, 1817, that any 
change was made. A petition had been 
presented on the 21st of January, 1815, 
from the Mississippi legislature, praying 
that a state might be constituted. A 
favorable report on this petition was 
made in December, 1816; and by an 
act passed March 1st, 1817, the people 
were authorized to hold a convention, 
which assembled in July following. A 
constitution having been drawn up, it 
was adopted August 15th, and was con- 
firmed by congress in December fol- 
lowing. 

The government consists of a gov- 
ernor, and a general assembly of two 
houses (a senate and a house of repre- 
sentatives). To be a candidate for the 
senate, a man must be twenty-six years 



430 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 



of age, a citizen of the United States, 
for four years previously an inhabitant 
of the state, and one year an inhabitant 
of his district; he must hold, in his own 
right, three hundred acres of land in 
Mississippi, or an interest in real estate 
of one thousand dollars' value, at the 
time of election and for six months pre- 
viously. Senators are elected for three 
years. To be candidate for a seat as a 
representative, citizenship of the United 
States is required ; two years' residence 
in the state, and one year's residence in 
the county, city, or town of which he is 
candidate ; an age of twenty-one years ; 
and the ownership of one hundred and 
fifty acres of land, or five hundred dol- 
lars in real estate for six months. 

Voters must be free white citizens of 
the United States ; twenty-one years of 
age ; residents of the state for the last 
year, and of their district for the last 
six months ; enrolled in the militia, or 
exempts ; or have paid a state or county 
tax. 

The governor is elected by electors, 
and holds his office two years, and until 
his successor shall be duly qualified. 
He must be thirty years of age ; twenty 
years a citizen of the United States ; a 
resident of the state five years ; and the 
owner of two thousand dollars for the 
past year. 

There is a supreme court, and from 
four to eight judges of the supreme and 
superior courts, who hold office during 
good behavior, but may be removed by 
address to the governor of two thirds 
of both houses of the legislature, or by 
impeachment by the house before the 
senate. The age of sixty-five limits the 
term of judgeship. The sixth article 
of the seventh section of the constitution 
forbids any minister of the gospel or 
priest to hold the offices of governor, 
lieutenant-governor, or a place in the 
legislature. No officers of the United 
States, except postmasters, are admitted 
to offices in the state. 

The geology of the western border of 
Mississippi has some most remarkable 
features. The land on the bank of the 
great river appears to have undergone 
wonderful revolutions ; and recent in- 
vestigations in the vicinity of Natchez 



have brought to light curiosities of the 
most intei'esting nature. 

On the shore, at the foot of the bluff" 
are strewn great numbers of tubes, re- 
sembling, at first sight, the bodies of 
old trees, formed of iron ore, and filled 
with earth, and which appear to have 
fallen from the bank. The remains of 
numerous kinds of extinct animals are 
contained in the ground at different 
depths ; while on the present surface a 
mound has been opened, which contains 
bones and implements of men of a race 
anterior to the present red men ; and 
trees of gi'eat age were growing over 
the spot. 

Population. — According to the cen- 
sus of 1850 the population of Mississippi 
was 605,488, by counties, as follows : — 

Northern District. — Attila, 10,999 ; 
Bolivar, 2,577 ; Carroll, 18,485 ; Chick- 
asaw, 16,368; Choctaw, 11,403; Coa- 
homa, 2,780; De Soto, 18,052; Ita- 
wamba, 13,311; La Fayette, 14,069; 
Lowndes, 19,547; Marshall, 29,690; 
Monroe, 21,131; Noxubee, 16,257; 
Oktibbeha, 9,171 ; Panola, 11,459 ; Pon- 
totoc, 17,112; Sunflower, 1,060; Tal- 
lahatchee, 4,643; Tippah, 20,740; Tish- 
omingo, 15,148; Tunica, 1,314; Wins- 
ton, 7,986 ; Yallabusha, 17,260. Total, 
300,561 ; of which number 133,672 were 
slaves. 

Southern District. — Adams, 18,621; 
Amite, 9,624; Claiborne, 14,903; Clarke, 
5,477 ; Copiah, 11,710 ; Covington, 3,348, 
Franklin, 5,904; Green, 2,018; Han- 
cock, 3,672 ; Harrison, 4,875 ; Hinds, 
25,310; Holmes, 13,930; Issaquena, 
4,478; Jackson, 3,196; Jasper, 6,174 ; 
Jefferson, 13,393 ; Jones, 2,135 ; Kem- 
per, 12,517 ; Lauderdale, 8,708 ; Law- 
rence, 6,485 ; Leake, 5,535 ; Madison, 
18,173; Marion, 4,410; Neshoba, 4,560 ; 
Newton, 4,466 ; Perry, 2,438 ; Pike, 
7,357 ; Rankin, 7,227 ; Scott, 3,979 ; 
Simpson, 4,735 ; Smith, 4,071 ; War- 
ren, 19,998 ; Washington, 8,389 ; Wayne, 
2,892; Wilkinson, 16,638 ; Yazoo, 13,- 
582. Total, 304,927, of which 174,495 
were slaves. 

Natchez, the principal town, is ad- 
vantageously situated on the summit and 
side of a high bluff", on the eastern bank 
of Mississippi river, three hundred and 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 



431 



one miles from New Orleans by the 
river ; about five hundred miles from St. 
Louis, and one thousand one hundred 
and forty-six from Washington city. 

The soil is rich, and the climate de- 
lightful in the winter. The vicinity is 
adorned with many fine residences, where 
elegant houses are seen embosomed in 
luxuriant groves, amid a wonderful pro- 
fusion of flowers and fiuits. The streets, 
which are straight and regularly laid out, 
are chiefly on the high ground, which is 
elevated from a hundred and fifty to 
two hundred feet above the river. The 
natui'e of the soil, however, is unfavor- 
able for the situation of a town, as a 
loose sandstone-rock, which lies so low 
as to be obsei'vable only at low water, 
is the only substratum of a high bluff 
composed of clay, intermingled in some 
parts with sand. Violent rains, there- 
fore, sometimes form large cavities in 
the sui-face, which is irregular and often 
changing. A large part of the lower 
town was destroyed a few years ago, by 
the falling of the bank near the water. 

The houses are generally of wood, and 
many of them are constructed with taste, 
and adorned with trees and gardens. 
There are four churches, a courthouse, 
three banks, an academy, a female sem- 
inary, a masonic-hall, theatre, orphan 
asylum, hospital, &c. The population, 
at the present time, probably exceeds 
five thousand. 

The wharves are the scene of active 
business, as an extensive trade is carried 
on in cotton, which is produced in great 
quantities in the neighborhood ; and nu- 
merous boats, rafts, and steamboats, lie 
or touch at the wharves. The situation 
of the town, on a pi'ominent elevation, 
distinguishes it as the principal place on 
this part of the Mississippi, where the 
banks are generally low, and almost in- 
visible from the waters. It was as much 
distinguished in former times as at the 
present day, having been the residence 
of the most powerful Indian tribe in this 
region, whose chief, denominated the 
Great Sun, was undisputed I'uler over 
the surrounding country, which he over- 
looked from his lofty fort on the summit 
of the bluff. This was the chief who 
permitted the French to erect Fort 



Rosalie on that eminence, but afterward 
massacred the garrison. 

Steamboats arrive daily fi-om New 
Orleans, and others depart for that im- 
portant city ; and a similar communica- 
tion is kept up with St. Louis, Cincin- 
naf^i, and the other principal places above, 
on the mighty river and some of its 
branches. Stagecoaches depart three 
times a week for Jackson and for St. 
Francisville, Louisiana. 

The Mississippi Railroad leads to 
Washington, sixteen miles, and Mal- 
colm, fourteen miles beyond. 

The distance from Natchez to New 
Orleans by land is only two hundred 
and eleven miles. The route is first by 
stagecoach to Coldspring, twenty miles, 
and Woodville, fifteen miles ; thence by 
railroad to Laurel hill, eleven miles, and 
St. Francisville, seventeen miles. The 
route then passes Port Hudson, Baton 
Rouge, Manchac, Iberville, New River, 
Donaldsville, Bringier's, Bonnet Carre, 
and Lafayette, two miles from New 
Orleans. From Natchez to Cincinnati 
(Ohio) the land-route is first by the rail- 
road to Washington and Malcolm, then 
by stagecoaches through Gallatin, Jack- 
son, Springfield, Louisville, Choctaw 
Agency, Columbus, Florence, and Nash- 
ville, to Cincinnati, seven hundred and 
sixty miles. 

Some of the most remarkable features 
of the Mississippi rivei* — the greatest 
stream of North America, and one of 
the largest in the world — are most easily 
observable from the elevated position 
which Natchez affords to the spectator. 
The tortuous course which it pursues, 
through a considerable part of its length, 
causes numerous eddies, one of the 
largest of which is in this vicinity. These 
eddies, when known and properly used 
by pilots, afford important facilities to 
vessels passing up the stream, as in some 
places they run northward for a consid- 
erable distance, at the rate of one, two, 
or more miles an hour. When not 
known, or when the navigator is de- 
ceived by the weather, they sometimes 
cause great embarrassment and loss of 
time. Some years ago, a flat-bottomed 
boat was passing down the river, with a 
load of pi'oduce for New Orleans, when 



432 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 



the boatmen heard music at night on the 
neighboring shore. The air was then so 
misty, that it was impossible to distin- 
guish distant objects ; and they floated 
on for some time, until their ears wei"e 
again greeted with a similar sound. At 
about an equal interval, music was again 
heard ; and they came to the conclusion 
that the inhabitants of the bank were 
celebrating some general festival, pre- 
suming that they were passing one vil- 
lao-e, or hamlet, after another. Thus 
they continued to move on through a 
great part of the night, and judged they 
were making rapid progress on their 
voyage. Morning, however, at length 
dispelled the mists and their delusion. 
They found themselves in the great ed- 
dy, which has a regular sweep of about 
five miles at a particular stage of the 
water; and they had been floating round 
and round its wide circle for several 
hours, passing a solitary house, then dis- 
tinguishable on the shore, where a small 
party had spent the time in mirth and 
music. 

The looseness of the earth along the 
banks, and the low level of land in most 
places, give occasion to some surprising 
phenomena. The channels are contin- 
nually liable to changes, as the current 
is strong enough to wear away the earth 
in any direction to which it may be 
turned, either by an obstruction or the 
removal of an obstacle. The earth thus 
torn away in one place is deposited in 
anothei-, together with some of the par- 
ticles brought down fi'om the upper parts 
of the stream, or its branches, in the an- 
nual floods. A bank undermined soon 
falls, often with a mass of timber; and 
trees then float along, until stopped by 
some shoal, or entangled at the bottom. 
These, becoming imbedded by the rapid 
accumulation of sand, often stand fixed 
for years, and, if allowed to remain, ex- 
pose the numerous rafts and boats to 
danger. The boatmen designate these 
obstructions by different names, accord- 
ing to the manner in which they are 
placed in the ground. A log or tree 
fixed upright in the bottom of the river 
is called a planter; one pointing up- 
ward in a slanting direction, and move- 
able by the current, is called a sawyer ; 



one with numerous prongs or branches 
is denominated a snag. Of these the 
planter is often an object of the greatest 
dread, when wholly sunken, as it may 
penetrate a boat's bottom in an instant. 
A sawyer, also, is very dangerous; for 
while a boat lies against it, and is pressed 
upon it by the current, the motion of the 
water keeps the end of the log alter- 
nately rising and sinking, which may 
quickly cut through the side or upper 
works, and cause material injury. 

Such, however, have been the labor 
and expense devoted by the United 
States government, for years past, to the 
clearing of the channels from obstruc- 
tions, that few of these now remain in 
situations where they are likely to cause 
injury — though new changes, of course, 
require new care. 

Natchez has frequently been visited 
by the yellow-fever, and with fatal ef- 
fect ; for although the state generally is 
far more healthful than Louisiana, some 
parts of it are not safe from this scourge 
of our southern regions, and this its 
principal town has suffered most se- 
vei'ely. This must be assigned as one 
of the principal causes of the slow in- 
crease of population. The neighboring 
low ground, much of which is inun- 
dated by the river, must be the principal 
source of the contagion. 

Jackson, the capital, is situated on 
Pearl river, on a plain about a quarter 
of a mile from its left bank, and is ac- 
cessible in small vessels. The streets 
are regular, and the town contains seve- 
ral public buildings worthy of particular 
notice. The statehouse is a handsome 
edifice, and there are also the state-pen- 
itentiary, the governor's house, and the 
United States land-office. The number 
of inhabitants in 1850 was four thousand 
five hundred. 

Centcnnary College, founded in 1841, 
is a methodist institution, and has a 
president, five professors, and about one 
hundred and seventy students. 

A railroad leads to Vicksburg, and 
cars arrive and depart daily ; and stage- 
coaches go to Nashville (Tennessee) via 
Columbus and Florence (Alabama), and 
to Gainesville. Those for Natchez go 
three times a week. 



Grand Gulp. — This town bears the 
name of a remarkable bend in the Mis- 
sissippi, on which it is built, three hun- 
dred and fifty-two miles above New 
Orleans. It has a townhall, an hospital, 
two churches, and a theatre. The pop- 
ulation is about fifteen hundred. It has a 
daily communication with New Oi'leans 
by steam. 

Washington. — This town has apleas- 
ant situation, on a gentle elevation, six 
miles east of Natchez, and contains a 
few detached but neat and handsome 
dwellings. It has two churches, and is 
distinguished as the site of 

Washington College. — This institution 
was founded in 1802, and received from 
congress an endowment in a grant of 
land. The buildings are of brick ; and 
it contains a library of about one thou- 
sand volumes, a chemical apparatus, a 
geological collection, and specimens of 
various fossil remains, such as we have 
before referred to as being found in this 
vicinity. 

Ellicot's spring is a fine source of 
water rising on the college grounds ; 
several other springs in this neighbor- 
hood are remarkable for their excellent 
water. 

Port Gibson. — This is a small town 
on Bayou Pierre ; it is eight miles from 
Grand Gulf, and twenty-five miles from 
the Mississippi by water. It has three 
churches, a courthouse, an academy, and 
over two thousand inhabitants. 

VicKSKURG. — This town is on the Mis- 
sissippi, five hundred and thirteen miles 
from New Orleans by water, and is quite 
flourishing, though of recent date. It 
contains a courthouse, five churches, 
three academies, and a theatre, with 
about five thousand inhabitants. The 
surrounding region is very fertile, and 
the town makes a very picturesque ap- 
pearance, presenting many clusters of 
dwellings, scattered along the declivity 
of several eminences, just below the 
Walnut hills. Steamboats from New 
Orleans arrive and depart daily, as well 
as fr(^m St. Louis (Missouri). 

Yazoo City. — This town stands on 
Yazoo river, at the distance of four hun- 
dred and ninety-three miles from New 
Orleans, and is connected with it by 



steamboats. Stagecoaches go to Holly 
Springs three times a week. The pop- 
ulation is only about eight hundred, but 
it is a place of considerable business, 
and contains several large stoi'es. 

Holly Springs. — The situation of 
this town is elevated, on the summit of 
a range of hills near the headsprings of 
Yazoo river. The surrounding country 
is rich and pleasant. The number of 
inhabitants is about one thousand seven 
hundred, and the town contains a court- 
house, an academy, and three churches. 
Stagecoaches go to Memphis every day, 
and depart three times in the week by 
several routes for La Grange, Tuscum- 
bia (Alabama), Columbus, Jackson, Y^a- 
zoo City, and Commerce. 

Columbus. — This town is one hun- 
dred and forty-one miles distant from 
the seat of government, on a hill on the 
left bank of Tombigbee river, one hun- 
dred and twenty feet above its level. 
The stream is crossed by a handsome 
bridge. The public buildings consist 
of a courthouse, an academy, two banks, 
five churches, a market, a theatre, and 
a female seminary. The population is 
about ten thousand. 

Steamboats run from Columbus to 
Mobile, and stagecoaches depart every 
day for Jackson and Vicksburg, as well 
as for Nashville (Tenn.), through Tus- 
cumbia, and three times a week for 
Pontotoc, Holly Springs, and Memphis. 

The inundations of the low grounds 
adjacent to the lower parts of the Mis- 
sissippi, are among the most striking 
phenomena connected with it. The bed 
of the stream is, in some places, much 
higher than the level of the adjacent 
fields, and whole plantations are actu- 
ally below the surface of the river. The 
flood begins on the lower branches of 
the Mississippi, some time before the 
warm season is sufficiently advanced to 
melt the deeper snows in the more 
distant northerly parts, near its upper 
sources. The regions from which the 
floods are derived lie between latitude 
forty-two and fifty degrees, and at dif- 
ferent elevations from twelve hundred 
to five thousand feet above the ocean. 
The heat of summer prevails at New 
Orleans some time before any change 



28 



434 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 



of elevation is made at the mouth of the 
river by the water derived from its head 
streams. About the end of February 
the waters begin to arrive from the 
lower tributaries which flow from re- 
gions of frost and snow. By gradual 
but irregular increase, the surface con- 
tinues to rise from the end of that month, 
when the Red river pours in its early 
flood, until late in the summer, when the 
last surplus waters arrive from the snows 
melted long before on the elevated sur- 
face near the northern lakes. 

The loneness of the bank of the Mis- 
sissippi, along a great part of the west- 
ern border of this state, with the loose 
nature of the alluvial soil, renders it 
almost impossible to erect even a single 
building near the water's edge, except at 
particular places, many of which are at 
considerable distances fi'om each other. 
Yet along this part of the river it is pe- 
culiarly important to have depositories 
of wood fcrr the use of steamboats, which 
consume fuel in such quantities that a 
full supply can not be taken in at the 
commencement of the voyage. So great 
is the demand, that, in spite of the nu- 
merous obstacles interposed by nature, 
wooding stations, as they are called, have 
been established in considerable num- 
bers, some by driving piles into the bank, 
and laying platforms on the top, elevated 
sufficiently to be above the floods ; and 
there quantities of wood, cut for the 
steamers' furnaces, are piled, and small 
tenements erected barely sufficient for 
the habitation of a few persons, and 
sometimes designed only for a single 
man. These are the only stopping- 
places for steamboats in long distances, 
where towns are rare ; and only here 
has the traveller any opportunity to ob- 
serve the river's banks, or any of the 
productions of nature, sometimes so at- 
tractive to a naturalist. 

The reader is referred to the vignette 
at the head of this description, for an 
accurate representation of a Mississippi 
" wooding station ;" as a view of it will 
naturally impress the mind with ideas 
of the great loneliness of such a retreat, 
especially at seasons when least visited 
by passing boats ; and with those of 
gloom and danger during the inunda- 



tions, when the inhabitants are situated 
in the midst of a wide expanse of water, 
with an irresistible current sweeping |} 
along, wearing away the unstable foun- 
dations of their fabric, and threatening 
to scatter its parts over the face of the 
waters, leaving them no ark for safety. 

Antiquities. — Some persons have 
fancied a resemblance between some of 
the remains of former inhabitants found 
in the western mounds, and those discov- 
ered in the pyramids, catacombs, and 
other depositories of ancient times in 
the old world. The following I'emarks 
on the subject we abbreviate from the 
remarks of Mr. Squier, who has been 
successfully engaged in examining many 
of the remains in the west : — 

" There are many coincidences be- 
tween the remains of antiquity in the old 
and new worlds ; but coincidences do 
not necessarily imply community of or- 
igin, or even regular or accidental inter- 
course. . . . The wants of man, his hopes 
and ambition, have always and every- 
where been very much the same, and 
have, almost of necessity, resulted in 

common methods of gratification 

The comparisons which I shall make 
between the ancient remains of our own 
country and those of Egypt, are insti- 
tuted with no view to prove an identity 
of origin, but as a new and curious il- 
lustration of the philosophical axiom 
already laid down. Upon one hand, we 
have the monuments of a people whose 
hieroglyphical annals are now resusci- 
tated by the ChampoUionists, around 
whom clflster the recollections of more 
than five thousand years, the subject 
alike of sacred and profane history ; 
upon the other, the relics of a race re- 
specting whom the voice of History is 
mute, and whose very name is lost to 
tradition itself .... The pyi-amid is but 
a develojyed mound, marking in its su- 
perior structure only a more advanced 
stage of man's progress. Many of the 
large mounds of the Mississippi vailey 
were places of sepulture — not for the 
mass of the people, as has been gener- 
rally supposed, but for chieftains ; and, 
like the pyramids, had sepulchral cham- 
bers — not lined with polished granite in 
massive blocks, but built of timber or 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSISSIPPI. 



435 



of unhewn stones. As in the pyramids, 
these chambers were constructed at the 
base, and the dead body, after proper en- 
velopment, deposited within them, with 
its ornaments and badges of power and 
authority. The great mound at Grave 
creek, like the great pyramid of Ghiza, 
had two chambers, one placed thirty 
feet above the other — occupying, indeed, 
the same relative positions in respect 
to each other and the structure in which 
they were contained. The explanation 
of the circumstance is undoubtedly the 
same in both cases — the upper part con- 
taining a subsequent deposite, perhaps 
the son or successor of the occupant of 
the lower and earlier chamber. . . . 

** We need not go out of our own 
country to mark the gradual develop- 
ment of the mound tombs. As we go 
southwai'd, we find them increasing both 
in size and regularity. In Louisiana, 
brick enters into their construction ; and 
in Mexico, they pass into the regular 
pyramidal form, are built of stone, and 
rival the monuments of Egypt in size. 
The large pyramid of Teotihuacan is 
not less than two hundred and twenty- 
one feet in height, with a base six hun- 
dred and eighty-two feet square. It is 
built of stones cemented together, and 
the whole was originally coated with a 
layer of pure white cement. The sec- 
ond pyramid, which has been most thor- 
oughly investigated, has interior cham- 
bers, communicating with the exterior 
by narrow passages, lined with brick. 
Surrounding these, as the tombs cluster 
around the Memphite pyramids, are 
thousands of small monuments, which 
were significantly designated, by the 
ancient inhabitants, the Micoatl, or Path 
of the Dead. 

" The mound-builders used copper 
axes, identical with those of Egypt, Pe- 
ru, and Mexico." 

Mr. Squier has collected several cop- 
per axes from the mounds, in contrast 
with those of the several nations above 
named, between which it was difficult, if 
not impossible, to distinguish. He also 
possesses some axes of flint and green 
stone from Denmark, and others from 
the mounds, which display an identity 
of shape and workmanship ; also, some 



copper bracelets from the mounds, per- 
fect counterparts of some in Mr. Glid- 
don's collection from Egypt ; also some 
beads of blue and green enamel or glass, 
the production of one of the western 
Indian tribes of the present day, hardly 
distinguishable from similar Egyptian 
ornaments. He also adverted in further 
illustration to the subject of pottery. 

" In their pottery," he continues, 
" we also observe marked resemblances, 
both in shape, material, and finish. In 
all pi'imitive earthen vessels (found only 
in alluvial countries in ancient times), 
we recognise the gourd as the model : 
the vessel, in the first instance, being 
formed over the shell, which was after- 
ward removed by fire. Upon this natural 
suggestion — a hint which nature every- 
where holds out — man has improved 
in his course of development, and the 
elegant vase has supplanted the gourd- 
shaped vessel of his primitive artisan- 
ship. In some of the sculptures found 
in the mounds, we have singular, but 
undoubtedly entirely accidental, coinci- 
dences in form with those to which pe- 
culiar significance was attached by the 
Egyptians. The hawk with a human 
head, sculptured from the hardest por- 
phyry, closely resembles the symbolical 
representation of the soul which appears 
sculptured on Egyptian tombs. The 
crane in the attitude of striking a fish, 
also exquisitely sculptured in porphyry, 
is the universal hieroglyphical symbol, 
signifying to fish, fishing, or fisher. . . 

"It has been a very favorite theory 
to derive the ancient or early Americans, 
in whole or part, for Egypt and Hin- 
dostan ; and an equally favorite one to 
transport them from Palestine, from 
Tartary, and even from the north of 
Europe! Volumes have been written 
in support of these theories, and the 
most sweeping conclusions have been 
advanced, based upon coincidences less 
striking than those here pointed out." 

In relation to the various quadrupeds 
which once existed in this region, recent 
scientific observations have brought to 
light evidences more definite and certain. 
The mastodon, mammoth, ice, have left 
their bones liere ; wliile the origin of the 
ancient race of men is conjectural. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP LOUISIANA. 




^4 



LOUISIANA. 

This state is, in many respects, 
the most peculiai country on the 
globe. Its southern border rests 
upon the gulf of Mexico, a vast in- 
land sea, m latitude below twenty- 
nine degiees noith; its northern 
boundaiy leaches to thirty-three 
degiees; its eastern boundary is 
the Pearl liver, which separates it 
fiom Alabama, to latitude thirty- 
one degiees, when the great Missis- 
sippi becomes the dividing line from 
the state that receives ivs name; 
while its western extremity is lim- 
ited by the Sabine. 

The whole southern portion of this state, over three hundred miles in lengtii 
by an average width of nearly seventy-five miles, is exclusively an alluvial de- 
posite. If to this be added similar deposites on the great river and its tributaries 
above, it presents a delta of comparatively recent formation, far surpassing any 
other, within the same compass, in any quarter of the world. Even those of the 
Nile, the Euphrates, and every other large river except the Ganges, are incon- 
siderable formations in comparison with this magnificent encroachment on the 
ocean bed. And still the struggle is onward and irresistible. The vast body of 
water which debouches into the gulf from several mouths, has its rise more than 
five thousand miles above, by the course of the stream ; and from its remotest 
source, and by every one of its innumerable branches, it is bringing down the 
ancient elevations, and spreading them over the tidewaters, the future fruitful 
abode of civilized man. 

Opposite the city of New Orleans, the trunk of the river has a breadth of two 
thousand five hundred feet, with an average depth of one hundred, through which 



the water passes with a mean velocity 
of two feet per second. During a flood, 
this velocity is greatly augmented, and 
the water contains about a thousandth 
part by weight, and a two-thousandth 
part by bulk, of purely earthy matter, 
yielding a daily deposite of nearly one 
million, four hundred thousand tons ! 
The effect of this immense floating allu- 
vion is seen in the gradual deposites 
and elevation of the lowlands bordering 
the principal stream, arfd its numerous 
bayous and collateral branches, the ac- 
cretions on the levee opposite the centre 
of the city (which have extended the 
bank several hundred feet within a few 
years), and the constant and rapid ex- 
tension of the land at the mouth. The 
late Judge Martin states that "the old 
Balize, a post erected by the French 
in 1724, at the mouth of the river, was 
two miles above it in 1827." 

Everywhere on the banks of the pass- 
ing stream the land is highest ; as the 
water charged with floating matter over- 
flows its bi-im, and becomes compara- 
tively stagnant, allowing a large portion 
of the solid material to subside, while 
the partially-purified water passes on- 
ward thi'ough other channels to the gulf. 
The result of this is to give a higher 
arable surface for some distance from 
the banks, while that portion of the land 
remote from them subsides into irre- 
claimable swamps, and frequently nav- 
igable lakes and lagoons. The natural 
elevation of the banks is not yet sufficient 
to prevent the overflow from floods ; and 
this object is secured by artificial levees, 
or embankments, on both sides, which 
extend in a continuous line for hundreds 
of miles on the main stream and its col- 
lateral channels. The slow accumula- 
tion and consequent elevation of the 
surrounding country from deposites, 
which would otherwise have been going 
forward, is thus ari-ested ; and the pres- 
ent low swampy surface must forever 
continue unreclaimed, till embankments 
on the lower sides, and the artificial I'e- 
moval of the waters, bring portions of it 
into a condition for future cultivation. 
Could the hand of civilization and mod- 
ern improvement have been arrested for 
a few centuries longer, till nature had 



finished what she has so auspiciously 
commenced, large additions, and in a 
state far more fitted to reward their ef- 
forts, would have been subjected to their 
control. 

The delta of the Mississippi is similar 
in its character, though on an immeas- 
urably larger scale, to that formed around 
and below the junction of the Alabama 
and Tombigbee rivers, and extending 
into Mobile bay. Here it is apparent 
that the waters of the bay once extend- 
ed high up the stream, and embraced 
what are now the low, level banks on 
either side. The same is true of the 
mouths of the Pearl, Pascagoula, and 
other smaller streams, which lie between 
those larger rivers ; and we are thus in- 
evitably forced to the conclusion, that 
the inner channels which lie within the 
islands stretching from Mobile to Lake 
Borgne, inclusive of this, and Lakes 
Pontchartrain and Maurepas, and the 
innumerable other smaller lakes and 
bayous which intersect the whole delta 
of the Mississippi, have been rescued 
from the tidewaters within a recent pe- 
riod. And there is scarcely a doubt 
that this former arm of the gulf once 
extended up the Yazoo, the Red river, 
and some other of the smaller rivers, all 
of whose banks ai'e intersected by nu- 
merous channels, through which the 
waters flow into the adjoining sti-eams, 
as either has the ascendency from recent 
floods on its upper branches. These 
interlocking with each other in every 
direction, and all at last terminating in 
the gulf, separate the entire delta mto 
a perfect network of islands. The land 
seldom rises beyond a few feet above 
lowwater-mark, and, from the banks, 
gradually subsides into the swamps, la- 
goons, and lakes in the rear. The lat- 
ter are sometimes deep, but are usually 
shallow, with the slightest declination 
from a level as they recede from the 
shore ; while the shorter and more di- 
rect channels, through which the water 
flows to the gulf with fearful rapidity in 
times of floods, are generally narrow 
and of immense depth, frequently ex- 
ceeding one hundred feet. The coast 
is usually a low receding line, so ob- 
scurely defined as to leave it question- 



438 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



able, for miles, where the water ends 
and the land begins. 

The condition of the surface clearly 
indicates that draining is the first and 
paramount object in the cultivation of 
the alluvial land of Louisiana. This 
has accordingly been practised to an 
extent far beyond anything elsewhere in 
the United States. Large ditches run- 
ning from the banks of the river and 
bayous to the swamps in the rear, inter- 
sected by numerous cross excavations 
of a less depth, effectually drain off the 
surface-water. 

Gkology. — The following is an inter- 
esting detail of observations, made du- 
ring an experiment of boring for fresh 
water to the depth of two hundred and 
six feet below the surface, at the mouth 
of Bayou St. John, New Orleans, by 
the superintendent of the work : — 

" Fi'om the surface to 18 feet, vege- 
table mould, wood, &c., very impure — 
so much so, that, although in the month 
of February, the smell- was almost in- 
supportable ; from 18 to 28 feet, blue 
clay or vegetable mould, but not so im- 
pure as the first 18 feet; 28 to 33, sand, 
sliells ; 33 to 40, dark, fine sand, free 
from shells ; 40 to 43, sand, clay, shells, 
and vegetable matter, but a very large 
portion of shells ; 43 to 66, blue clay, 
sand, and shells, but mostly clay — the 
last 10 feet, clear clay, and very hard, 
di-y, and adhesive, the strata growing 
lighter to pale yellow; 66 to 77, fine, 
beautiful yellow sand, containing a large 
quantity of mica, also petrifactions and 
indurated clay — this stratum was very 
strongly impregnated with sulphur, so 
much so as to render the water offensive 
to the smell ; 77 to 87, pale clay, vege- 
table mould, and sand, very compact and 
hard ; 87 to 118, blue clay or mould, in- 
termixed with some sand ; 118 to 119-^, 
sand, clay, and shells; 119$ to 137, the 
same strata of blue clay or mould, inter- 
mixed with some fine sand, the color 
growing a little paler, intermixed toward 
the bottom with many shells. 

" In passing this stratum from 120 to 
137 feet, we found a great number of 
pieces of limestone ; in some parts of it 
we found it difficult to get our tube 
down to them, they were so numerous ; 



in fact, the whole stratum is evidently 
rapidly becoming a limestone-rock. 1 37 
to 140, sand, very fine, of a brown color, 
containing a large portion of mica; 140 
to 145, alternate thin strata of sand and 
clay — the clay extremely hard, firm, and 
beautiful, when fresh not unlike choc- 
olate in appearance; 145 to 171, clay, 
or mould, of a variety of colors, inter- 
mixed with some sand, likewise a sub- 
stance much resembling fuller's earth. 
This stratum at first was nearly white. 
After penetrating it about two feet, it 
became darker and extremely hard and 
compact, also very adhesive, and capable 
of being cut in very thin pieces with a 
knife. 

" In this stratum, at 168 feet, passed 
a few inches of sand, but below to 171 
feet, the stratum the same again ; 171 
to 184, strata same as above; 184 to 
192, sand, shells, and mould : in this 
stratum we found shells of almost every 
variety found in this vicinity ; also, what 
appeared to have been a whole crab, but 
broken by the instrument in getting it 
up ; the claws were very perfect, so that 
the joints might be worked by the fin- 
ger; also a bone of about two inches in 
length, and evidently broken, supposed 
to be a bone of a deer; also pieces of 
wood, in a high state of preservation, 
apparently cypress. 192 to 194, sand 
and mould intermixed, two inches of 
sand and stones, apparently in a rapid 
state of formation ; 194 to 196, mould 
and sand, very hard, of a greenish color ; 
196 to 199, alternate strata of mould 
and sand, containing many stones, ap- 
parently forming rock ; 199 to 201, sand 
and clay, in alternate veins, containing 
much water ; 201 to 202^, clay of a light 
pale color; 202^ to 203^, clay and mould 
of a dark color, very hard and beauti- 
ful — the division in the color was very 
distinct ; 203^ to 206, the same as fi-om 
201 to 202|. 

" The soil alluded to called clay, is in 
all probability a formation of vegetable 
and mud of the Mississippi. I have 
found that when di-y it becomes very 
light, and some of it has much the ap- 
pearance of wood or other vegetable 
substance." 

New Orleans is the principal city of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



439 



Louisiana, and great comnnercial em- 
porium of the southwest, enjoying ad- 
vantages possessed by few cities in the 
world. Indeed, there is pi'ohably no 
otlier v/hich can be considered equal to 
it, in the several leading points of being 
the grand mart of a river so extensive, 
with so many navigable branches, flow- 
ing through regions of fertility, occu- 
pied and fast peopling by a race pos- 
sessiT)g all the arts of civilization, and ' 
all the advantages of our united, free, j 
and powerful government. Under the | 
direction of modern science and art, the j 
rapid current of the Mississippi has \ 
been rendered eminently subservient to 
the commerce of this city; for, without 
steamboats, the immense productions of 
the great valley would still have been 
retarded, in their way to their only nat- 
ural market, by the dangers of the de- 
scending navigation and the difficulties 
and delays of the return. It is scarcely 
twenty years since the corn, hogs, and 
other articles, annually sent to New 
Orleans, were taken down in arks and 
on rafts, by men who could hope to ar- 
rive in safety only by incessant watch- 
fulness and frequent labor, among the 
shoals and snags of the river, and who 
had no resource left them, after reaching 
the city, than to break up their vessel 
(if such it might be called), sell it for 
lumber, and then travel home on foot. 

Cotton. — The immense cotton trade 
of the United States, of which a large 
portion is carried on at New Orleans, 
has so important relations with the 
manufactures, commerce, and condition 
of Europe, and is liable to so many fluc- 
tuations, that much of the attention of 
merchants is annually turned to this city. 
The following facts will assist the reader 
in appreciating the present importance 
of our great emporium of the west, 
though its prospects are so great as to 
fill the mind with astonishment, when 
we look forward to the increase of pop- 
ulation, and indulge the hope that divine 
Providence will perpetuate our Union, 
and continue our national prosperity. 

Eui'ope is almost entirely dependent 
on the United States for cotton, although 
England and France have endeavored 
to secure supplies from other sources. 



Formerly North Carolina and Vii- 
ginia formed our principal depots fen- 
American cotton; under the influence 
of receding prices, these states had to 
yield to the greater fertility of new land, 
and Greorgia became the largest cotton- 
growing state in the Union. In its tui'n, 
however, Georgia has declined before 
the productions of Mississippi; and the 
right bank of the Mississippi river may, 
in its turn, supply that production, which 
the cultivation of corn and sugar may 
supersede, if proved to be the more re- 
munerating crops. There is, however, 
a limit to this. So far as wo know, cot- 
ton can only be giown, to any extent, in 
that portion of the United States known 
as the southwestern states. In other 
countries, the cultivation has not suc- 
ceeded to the desired extent — a weak 
and useless fibie being the result of 
much enterprise and capital. But what- 
ever be the amount of cotton hereafter 
raised in Louisiana, Alabama, and Missis- 
sippi, an immense annual supply of prod- 
uce must be brought to New Orleans. 

CivH, Divisions. — Louisiana is di- 
vided into parishes, after the old French 
plan, as follows : — 

Eastern District. — Ascension, Assump- 
tion, Baton Rouge (West and East), Fe- 
liciana (West and East), Iberville, Jeffer- 
son, La Fourche, Livingston, Orleans, 
Plaquemine, Point Coupee, St. Bernard, 
St. Charles, St. Helena, St. James, St. 
John Baptist, St. Tammany, Terra 
Bonne, Washington. 

Western District. — Avoyelles, Bien- 
ville, Bossier, Caddo, Calcasieu, Cald- 
well, Carroll, Catahoula, Claiborne, 
Concordia, De Soto, Franklin, Jack- 
son, La Fayette, Madison, Morehouse, 
Natchitoches, Ouchita, Rapides, Sabine, 
St. Landry, St. Martin, St. Mary, Ten- 
sas, Union, Vermillion. 

Population. — In 1785, while under 
the government of Spain, Louisiana con- 
tained 27,283 inhabitants. In 1810, un- 
der the government of the United States, 
it had 75,556. In 1820, 153,407; in 
1830, 215,575; in 1840, 352,411; and 
by the census of 1850, 500,762. 

Surface and State of the Coun- 
try. — Three quarters of the whole state 
is said to be destitute of everything that 



440 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



might be called a hill. A hilly range 
commences at Opelousas and extends 
toward the Sabine river, running about 
equally distant between that stream and 
Red river. Gradually rising, it as- 
sumes at length the aspect of mountains. 
Another ridge lies between Red river 
and the Dudgemony. The whole state, 
however, with small exceptions, may be 
regarded as a succession of pine woods 
with a gently rolling surface, prairies, 
alluvions, swamps, and hickory and oak 
lauds. The prairies, in many places, 
present the peculiar characteristics- of 
those extensive level tracts properly 
known by that name in other parts of 
the west and southwest, being unvaried 
even by a single elevation, and in sum- 
mer overgrown with a uniform coat of 
grass, richly bespi'inkled with flowers 
of various hues. 

Large quantities of swampy land re- 
main uni-eclaimed, which is of a rich soil, 
capable of yielding abundant crops of 
sugarcane ; but various obstacles still 
pi"event its impi'ovement. Draining is 
the first step necessary : but the back- 
wardness of emigrants in choosing the 
plains of Louisiana, caused partly by 
the fear of disease and partly by un- 
settled land-titles, prevents that advance 
in prosperity which could be desired. 
The sickliness of the climate is exag- 
gerated ; for, although the yellow-fever 
has often been fatal in some pai'ts of the 
country as well as in New Orleans, the 
general impression at a distance doubt- 
less exceeds the reality j and some pai'ts 
of the state are as healthful as any parts 
of our counti-y. This is particularly 
the fact with the pine hills ; and that 
unv^iolesome miasmata of the lower, 
marshy lands would doubtless be in a 
great degree destroyed, if a good sys- 
tem of drainage were once formed. 

Sugar-making. — The making of sugar 
on a large scale, in this state, is of but 
recent date ; yet it already forms a most 
important and lucrative branch of busi- 
ness, and is so rapidly increasing, with 
so great improvements in the different 
methods and processes, that it threatens 
almost to absorb the attention, labor, and 
capital of the state. Science was early 
called in, and practical experience was 



not overlooked, when this branch of 
production and manufacture was first 
zealously commenced in the United 
States. When it had been ascertained 
that much of the soil of Louisiana was 
adapted to the growth of the cane, and 
that it could be raised with great pecu- 
niary advantage, the government of the 
United States had the judgment to em- 
ploy the distinguished chemist Professor 
Silliman, of Yale college, to examine 
the subject in its various aspects ; and 
his report presented a most valuable 
collection of facts, for the guidance of 
congress in making regulations for the 
encouragement of the business, as well 
as of the agriculturists and manufac- 
turers entering into it. 

The following brief description of 
the manufacturing processes, is copied 
from a series of letters published in the 
New York Express, in June and July, 
1847 :— 

" In the northern states comparatively 
little is known as regards either the cul- 
ture or growth of the cane, or the many 
and varied principles of manufacturing 
its rich juice into sugar; yet we may 
anticipate that a more perfect knowledge 
of this branch of industry will soon be 
apparent. Texas and all parts south 
of South Carolina are adapted to the 
planting of cane, and for several reasons 
all those places will become sugai'-grow- 
ing districts. Cotton-planting, which 
used to be prosecuted with such vigor, is 
now gradually dying away ; the staple 
article, sugar, is fast usurping its place ; 
the cottonfield is chang-ed to the suo^ar- 
cane, and the ginhouse to the sugar- 
house. The production of sugar has 
gradually increased up to the crop of 
1845-'S; but the crop of 1846-'7 fell 
short of even 1841, being only about 
one hundred and thirty thousand hogs- 
heads of a thousand pounds each, and 
about four and a half millions of gallons 
of molasses. Although this was a very 
small crop, it sold for more money than 
the largest crop ever produced in Amer- 
ica, probably on account of England 
now admitting slave-grown sugar. The 
short crop of last year may be partly 
attributed to the unpropitious season. 
This year, so far, has the most auspicious 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



441 



appearances ; the planters have planted 
upon new principles ; the season has 
been very dry, but the extraordinary 
height of the Mississippi has amply 
made up for it, the transpiration w^ater 
having found its way through the lands. 
According to Creole theory, this is a 
good omen : ' A high river, a great crop.' 
There are near two thousand plantations 
in operation this year ; and as I have 
lately visited the majority of them, from 
what I can see and learn, the crop of 
next gathering (all well) will amount to 
three hundred thousand hogsheads of 
one thousand pounds each, and nine 
millions of gallons of molasses. To give 
some idea to those unacquainted with 
the manufacturing of this domestic ar- 
ticle, I will give some data, which I trust 
will prove interesting. 

" One gallon of cane-juice generally 
makes one pound of sugar ; therefore, 
three hundi'ed millions of gallons of 
cane-juice must be expressed to obtain 
this quantity of sugar. To give some 
idea of this quantity of liquid, provided 
it was water, and supposing the city of 
New York in a state of blockade, it 
would be sufficient to serve the inhab- 
itants for four years' subsistence. 

" A large quantity of white and refined 
sugar will be made direct from the cane 
next grinding, some planters having pro- 
cured very expensive machinery and ap- 
paratus for that purpose. The insides 
of most of the sugarhouses on the Mis- 
sissippi are quite familiar to me, some 
of which have cost over fifty thousand 
dollars in improvements. A much less 
quantity of molasses will be made next 
crop, according to the quantity of sugar 
produced, than is customary. 

" It is of little use to enter into a 
description of the old mode of sugar- 
making. Cane, like other things, may 
in time become acclimated ; consequent- 
ly, experience teaches us how to humor 
it. We now plant cane in rows eight 
and nine feet apart instead of, as origin- 
ally, four and five feet. It thrives bet- 
ter; receives more fresh air, more sun, 
moi'e nourishment; grows larger and 
stronger ; requires less seed and labor ; 
and gives more sugar to the arpent. 

" After the cane is cut, it is brought 



to the mill, where it is ground to express 
the juice. However, the best of mills 
do not take out all the juice, some six- 
teen or eighteen per cent, remaining in 
the baggasse or frosh. A second two- 
roller mill was introduced at consider- 
able expense, requiring much power, 
the drawbacks on which will prevent 
its general adoption; however, to ob- 
viate this, and obtain fifteen per cent, of 
the lost juice, a revolving-doctor is about 
to be adopted, which, though cheap, 
will answer every purpose, when ap- 
plied to old or new mills. The cane- 
juice is now carried into large wooden 
boxes called clarifiers, where it is heated 
to two hundred degi'ees Fahrenheit, by 
steampipes, and receives a small dose 
of flake-lime ; this regulates acidity, and 
cleans the juice to a certain extent. 
The juice is now at about nine and a 
half or ten degrees saccharometer ; it 
is now run off into open boxes heated 
by steampipes, whei'e it is boiled and 
scummed, passing from one box, called 
the grand, to another, called the battery, 
where it is concentrated until its boiling 
point reaches two hundred and eighteen 
degi'ees Fahrenheit ; it is now let off 
into an elevator, so as to be risen up 
into a cistern of considerable altitude 
previous to its going through the further 
operation of filtering, &c. 

" I would here state the reason of its 
having to go into an elevator : the mills 
are set too low for the juice to run from 
one vessel to another, for the purpose of 
its going through the various processes, 
according to the new plans of sugar- 
manufacture. This elevator is a kind 
of cylinder-boiler set on end; when this 
is full, steam is turned into it, which, 
pressing on the surface of the syrup, 
forces it through a pipe attached to the 
cotton leading up to the receiver above. 
This is far from being an economical 
mode of raising fluids, but it is better 
than pumps, as it does not oxydize the 
syrup. However, a more simple, cheap, 
aud effective mode, upon the principle 
of waste steam forming a vacuum in the 
upper cistern, will soon come into gen- 
eral use. The next process through 
which this concentrated cane-juice has 
to pass is the bag-filters ; these are a 



442 



DK60RIPTI0N OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



series of lar2:e fine-duck bags, neatly- 
folded up, ai)d placed in a cylindrical 
small case of the same material; they 
are suspended by the neck on metal 
rings, and hang down in a square wood- 
en box, where the juice drips through, 
leaving dirt, sediment, &c., inside the 
baes. This is rather an old-fashioned 
process. A new plan will shortly take 
its place, upon a hydrostatical princi- 
ple — the pure liquid passing through 
compressed sponge. 

" The next process through which 
syrups pass is that of the vacuum-pan, 
of which there is a great variety. The 
orifinal and perhaps the best one is 
known as the Howard vacuum-pan — 
Mr. Howard being the inventor and pat- 
entee. In fact, all others are mere modi- 
fications. Another, called De Rosne's, 
is both simple and good, and very much 
used ; it is this which I will describe, 
although there are several othei's daily 
coming into use, viz. : the Bevan pan, 
Morgan pan, and Rillieux pan. This 
last stands rather high — sugar made by 
it having received awards and premiums 
from the Louisiana Agriculturists' and 
Mechanics' association more than once. 
Yet the pans of De Rosne and Howard, 
simple and cheap as they are, have 
produced the best sugar ever made in 
Louisiana. 

" The De Rosne pan is a cylinder of 
cast-iron, with a wrought-iron steam- 
jacket, for the purpose of admitting 
steam for boiling the charge. It has 
also copper pipes passing up and down 
its inside for the same purpose — that is, 
to accelerate evaporation. This pan 
being air-tight and filled with syrup, 
steam is turned on for the purpose of 
boiling. At the same time the steam- 
engine is started to work the airpumps, 
the vacuum being formed and main- 
tained in the following manner : a pipe 
attached to the dome of the pan, of suf- 
ficient capacity to carry off all the vapor 
given off by ebullition, leads into a 
large, tight iron vessel, constantly sup- 
plied with cold water. This is the con- 
denser. The air-pumps remove all the 
vapor cold-water, and draw in fresh to 
renew and carry on condensation, and 
thus is the vacuum kept up as indicated 



by the barometer, from thirteen to four- 
teen pounds per square inch. The sur- 
face of the liquid thus relieved from 
pressure boils at about one hundred and 
thirty degrees Fahrenheit. Thus a large 
grain and fair sugars are obtained." 

New Orleans. — This city is situated 
on the left bank of Mississippi river, 
which has here a singular curve, that 
places the city on its northwest side, 
and facing to the southeast. It is one 
hundred and five miles from its mouth, 
by the course . of the river, but only 
ninety in a direct line. It is about 
eleven hundred miles from* St. Louis, | 
fourteen hundred from New York, and j 
twelve hundred from Washington. New ' 
Orleans is the fourth city, in point of 
population, and the third in commerce, 
in the United States. Its rapid increase 
in population has not been equalled, 
probably, by that of any other city in 
the Union. In ISIO, it was 17,242 ; in 
1820, 27,176; in 1830, 46,310; in 1840, 
102,193; in 1850, 119,285. 

The old city proper is in form a paral- 
lelogram. Above the city are the suburbs 
of St. Mary and A nnunciation, and below 
'Are tlie suburbs of Marigny, Franklin, 
and Washington. These are called 
faiixbourgs. Between the city and the 
bayou St. John's are the villages of St. 
Claude and St. Johnsburg. The old 
city proper was laid out by the French, 
and now fi)rms not more than one eighth 
of the city limits, and not more than one 
fourth of its thickly-settled parts. The 
coup d'oeil of the city when seen from 
the river is extremely beautiful. Many 
of the principal streets making a curve, 
from the shape of the city, New Orleans 
has been called the " Crescent city." 

The public buildings are the United 
States branch mint, which is an edifice 
of the Ionic order of architecture, mer- 
chants' exchange, commercial exchange, 
city exchange, city-hall, courthouse, 
the statehouse, formerly the charity 
hospital, sixteen churches, some of them 
elegant buildings, four orphan asylums, 
three theatres, and several large and 
splendid hotels. 

The situation of New Orleans for 
commerce is very commanding. The 
length of the Mississippi river, and its 



444 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP LOUISIANA. 



connected waters, which are navigated 
by steam, is not less than 20,000 miles, 
and the country which they drain is not 
surpassed in fertility by any on the globe. 
Its advantages for communication with 
the country in its immediate vicinity are 
also great. By a canal four and a half 
miles long, it communicates with Lake 
Pontchartrain, and its connected ports. 
This canal cost $1,000,000. There is also 
a canal, one and one fourth miles long, 
which communicates with Lake Pont- 
chartrain through bayou St. John. A 
railroad, four and a half miles long, con- 
nects it with Carrollton. A railroad, 
four and one fourth miles long, connects 
the city with Lake Pontchartrain one 
mile east of bayou St. John. The Mexi- 
can gulf railroad extends twenty-four 
miles, to Lake Borgne, and is to be 
continued to the gulf, at the South pass. 
The Mississippi, opposite to the city, is 
half a mile wide, and from one hundred 
to one hundred and sixty feet deep, and 
continues of this depth to near its en- 
trance into the ocean, where are bars, 
with from thirteen and a half to sixteen 
feet of water. 

An embankment, called the Levee, is 
raised on the rivei''s border, to protect 
the city. The Levee is from twenty to 
forty feet broad, but in front of the sec- 
ond municipality is extended to five or 
six hundred feet broad. This forms a 
splendid promenade, and a very conve- 
nient place for depositing the cotton and 
other produce from the upper country, 
which can be rolled directly from the 
decks of the steamers to the bank of 
the river. 

The harbor presents an area of many 
acres, covered with flat-boats and keel- 
boats in its upper parts. Sloops, schoon- 
ers, and brigs, are arranged along its 
wharves, and present a forest of masts ; 
and steamboats are continually arriving 
or departing. The amount of domestic 
articles exported exceeds $12,000,000 
annually, being greater than those of 
any other city in the Union, excepting 
New York. The houses of the city 
proper have a French and Spanish as- 
pect, are generally stuccoed, and are of 
a white or yellow color. 

The city proper contains sixty-six 



complete squares : each square having 
a front of three hundred and nineteen 
feet in length. Few of the streets, ex- 
cepting Canal street, are more than forty 
feet wide. Many of the seats in the 
suburbs are surrounded with spacious 
gardens, splendidly ornamented with 
orange,, lemon, magnolia, and other 
trees. No city in the United States has 
so great a variety of inhabitants, with 
such an astonishing contrast of manners, 
language, and complexion. The French 
population probably still predominates 
over the American, though the latter is 
continually gaining ground. 

A mistaken impression prevails in 
some sections of the Union, in relation 
to the moral character, and healthfulness 
of the climate, of the Crescent city. But 
while not free from those evils incident 
to all large and crowded populations, 
still, in proportion to its size, New Or- 
leans is as free from vice as any other 
city of the Union. The yellow fever is 
but little more to be dreaded than those 
pulmonary complaints which yearly 
sweep away so many thousands of vic- 
tims at the north. And as to the damp- 
ness of the land, that is yearly becom- 
ing of less account as the cultivation 
and second soil more and more dwindle 
away its evil effects. For personal 
safety, men, women, and children, are 
as secure from insult or injury there, at 
all times, and under all circumstances, 
as in any city in the world. 

The Battle of New Orleans. — This 
city has been rendered memorable as 
beino: the scene of the last battle in the 
war of 1812-14, with Great Britain, 
a brief detail of which will close our 
notice of New Orleans. — In the month 
of December, 1814, fifteen thousand 
British troops, under Sir Edward Pac- 
kenliam, were landed for the attack of 
New Orleans. The defence of this place 
was intrusted to Gen. Andrew Jackson, 
whose force was about six thousand 
men, chiefly raw militia. Several slight 
skii'mishes occurred before the enemy 
arrived before the city : during this 
time. Gen. Jackson was employed in 
making preparation for his defence. His 
front was a straight line of about i ne 
thousand yards, defended by upward of 
I 



DESCRirTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



445 



three thousand infantry and artillerists. 
The ditch contained five feet of water, 
and his front, from having been flooded 
by opening the levees, and by frequent 
rains, was rendered slippery and muddy. 
Eight distinct batteries were judiciously 
disposed, mounting in all twelve guns 
of different calibres. On the opposite 
side of the river was a strong battery of 
fifteen guns. 

At daylight, on the morning of the 
8th of January, the main body of the 
British, under their commander-in-chief, 
General Packenham, were seen advan- 
cing from their encampment to storm 
the American lines. On the preceding 
evening they had erected a battery 
within eight hundred yards, which now 
opened a biisk fire to protect their ad- 
vance. They were suffefed to approach 
in silence, and unmolested, until within 
three hundred yards of the lines, when 
the whole artillery at once opened upon 
them a most deadly fire. Forty pieces 
of cannon, deeply charged with grape, 
canister, and musket balls, mowed them 
down by hundreds, at the same time the 
batteries on the west bank opened their 
file, while the riflemen, in perfect secu- 
rity behind their works, as the British 
advanced, took deliberate aim, and near- 
ly every shot took efffect. Through this 
destructive fire, the British left column, 
under the immediate orders of the com- 
mander-in-chief, rushed on with their 
fascines and scaling ladders, to the ad- 
vance bastion on the American right, 
and succeeded in mounting the parapet; 
here, after a close conflict with the bayo- 
net, they succeeded in obtaining posses- 
sion of the bastion ; when the battery, 
planted in the rear for its protection, 
opened its fire, and drove the British 
from the ground. On the American 
left, the British attempted to pass the 
swamp, and gain the rear, but the works 
had been extended as far into the swamp 
as the ground would permit. Some who 
attempted it, sunk in the mire and dis- 
appeared ; those behind, seeing the fate 
of their companions, seasonably retreat- 
ed, and gained the hard ground. The 
assault continued an hour and a quarter ; 
during the whcde time, the British were 
exposed to the deliberate and destructive 



fire of the American artillery and mus- 
ketry, which lay in perfect secui'ity be- 
hind their breastworks of cotton bales, 
which no balls could penetrate. At 
eight o'clock, the British columns drew 
off in confusion, and retreated behind 
their works. Flushed with success, the 
militia were eager to pursue the British 
troops to their intrenchments, and drive 
them immediately from the island. A 
less prudent and accomplished general 
might have been induced to yield to the 
indiscreet ardor of his troops; but Gen- 
eral Jackson understood too well the 
nature of his own and his enemy's force, 
to hazard such an attempt. Defeat must 
inevitably have attended an assault made 
by raw militia, upon an intrenched camp 
of British regulars. The defence of 
New Orleans was the object ; nothing 
was to be hazarded which would jeopard 
the city. The British were suffered to 
retire behind their works without moles- 
tation. The result was such as might 
have been expected from the different 
positions of the two armies. Before 
eight o'clock, the three generals were 
carried off the field, two in the agonies 
of death, and the third entirely disabled ; 
leaving upward of two thousand of their 
men dead, dying, and wounded, on the 
field of battle. 

On the 9th, General Lambert and Ad- 
miral Cochrane, with the surviving offi- 
cers of the army, held a council of war, 
and determined to abandon the expedi- 
tion. To withdraw the troops in the 
face of a victorious enemy, would have 
been difficult and hazardous. To with- 
draw in safety, every appearance of a 
renewal of the assault was kept up, till 
the night of the 18th, when the whole 
army moved off in one body, over a road 
which had been previously constructed 
through a miry slough, in which a num- 
ber of the troops perished by sinking 
into the mire. On the 27th, the whole 
land and naval forces which remained of 
this disastrous expedition, found them- 
selves on board of their ships, with their 
lanks thinned, their chiefs and many of 
their companions slain, their bodies ema- 
ciated by hunger, fatigue, and sickness. 

Baton Rouge. — This town, the capi- 
tal of the state, is one hundred and forty 



446 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



miles above New Orleans, on the left 
bank of the Mississippi, standing chiefly 
on a plain elevated about thirty feet 
above the water, except the business 
streets, which are on the low ground 
along the shore. 

The public buildings are the court- 
house, state-penitentiary. United States 
land-office, a college, an academy, three 
banks, and four churches. The popula- 
tion is about four thousand five hundred. 

The college was founded in 1823, and 
has four professors, one thousand vol- 
umes in its library, and about fifty stu- 
dents. Steamboats communicate daily 
with New Orleans, Vicksburg, &c., and 
stagecoaches run to New Orleans and 
St. Francisville. 

DoNALDSoNViLLE, ninety miles above 
New Orleans, stands on the west side 
of the river, at the point where the La 
Fourche fork leaves the main stream. 

Galveztown stands on Bayou Man- 
chac, and is in the village of Iberville, 
at a short distance from the place where 
it enters Lake Pontchartrain. It is a 
small town, twenty miles north-northeast 
from Donaldsonville, and twenty-five 
southeast of Baton Rouge. 

Springfield is a post village in the 
southeast part of the parish of St. He- 
lena, eleven miles southeast of St. He- 
lena, and eighty miles northwest of New 
Orleans. 

Madisonville. — This village is also 
a seaport, and belongs to the parish of 
St. Tammany, at the mouth of Chi- 
functe river. It is about twenty-eight 
miles north of New Orleans, on the op- 
posite side of Lake Pontchartrain, in 
latitude thirty degrees twenty minutes. 
. The situation is so healthful that the 
place has been much resorted to by cit- 
izens of New Orleans during the warm 
and sickly seasons, and it contains sev- 
eral houses designed for the accommo- 
dation of visiters. Some years ago the 
government attempted to establish a 
navyyard a few miles above, on the riv- 
er's bank, 

Covington, seven miles above Mad- 
isonville, is a considerable village, and 
stands on a branch of the Chifuncte, 
called the Bogue Falaya. It is the seat 
of justice for the parish of St. Tam- 



many, and at the head of navigation in 
schooners. A considerable quantity of 
cotton is, therefore, annually shipped 
here. General Jackson's road, from 
Lake Pontchartrain to Nashville, passes 
through Covington. It is one of the fa- 
vorite places of resort from New Orleans 
in the sickly months. 

Opelousas, two hundred and seventy 
miles from New Orleans, is the seat of 
justice of the parish to which it belongs, 
had a rapid growth a few years since, 
and is surrounded by a flourishing re- 
gion. It stands on Bayou Bourbee, the 
head branch of Vermilion river, and a 
branch of Teche river rises just in the 
rear of the village. Large heads of 
horses and cattle, abounding on the ex- 
tensive plain in the neighborhood, with 
the abundant and varied productions of 
the earth, give an interesting aspect to 
this place. Before the addition of Texas 
to the United States, Opelousas was the 
most southwest village in the country. 

New Iberia and St. Martinsville are 
two other villages on the banks of the. 
Teche, both on the west side ; the lat- 
ter, being at the head of schooner naviga- 
tion, and surrounded by a fertile coun- 
try, promises much increase. 

Alexandria, on Red river, seventy 
miles from the Mississippi, is situated 
half a mile below the falls, at the mouth 
of Bayou Rapide. It is in the centre 
of several extensive and fertile cotton 
districts, and is a seat of justice. The 
village is thickly shaded by groves of 
China-trees, in the midst of a beautiful 
plain. It is the scene of an active trade 
in cotton. 

Country Life in Louisiana. — We 
copy from a late writer the following 
description of the house of a Louisiana 
planter, which applies to those common 
on the banks of the Mississippi : — 

" The house was quadrangular, with 
a high stoop, a Dutch roof, immensely 
large, and two stories in height; the 
basement or lower story being construct- 
ed of brick, with a massive colonnade 
of the same material on all sides of the 
building. This basement was raised to 
a level with the summit of the Levee, 
and formed the groundwork or basis of 
the edifice, which was built of wood, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



447 




View on the Mississippi, at Bend No. 100. 



painted white, with Venetian blinds, 
and latticed verandas supported by slen- 
der and graceful pillars, running round 
every side of the dwelling. Along the 
whole western front, festooned in mas- 
sive folds, hung a dark-green curtain, 
which was dropped along the whole 
length of the balcony in a summer's 
afternoon." 

The Moth. — The cotton crops are 
liable to extensive injury by a noxious 
insect, called the cotton moth, of which 
the following description was recently 
published : — 

" The cotton moth, or noctua xylina, 
appears in the spring, when the cotton- 
plant is in a fit state to receive the eggs. 
She places these on the leaves of the 
plant to the number of from two to six 
hundred ; these hatch in from two to five 
days, according to the weather. The 
young lai'vse are very minute, but grow 
rapidly, attaining their full size of one 
and a half inches in from fourteen to 
twenty days, dui'ing which time, like 
their congeners, they moult every eight 
days. The difference in the color of 
the worms is owing to their moulting. 



as a slight change takes place after each 
skin is cast off. Their duration in the 
larva state is six weeks, in which time 
they feed voraciously; they then spin 
their cocoons, and remain in the pupa 
state a lonsfer or shorter time, accordino^ 
to the season of the year. The moths 
that remain in the pupa until the follow- 
ing spring, will be those whose larvae 
will destroy the summer's crop. Should 
the fall and winter be favorable to the 
premature development of the moth, the 
planters may be grateful, as it will be 
their greatest safeguard, unless they will 
gather and destroy the pupa. 

" Mr. Affleck states that the caterpil- 
lars frequently spin on the old plants." 

View on the Mississippi at Bend 

No. 100. — So numerous are the curves 

or bends of this river, and so difficult is 

it to distinguish them from each other 

by any natural features, in consequence 

of the uniformity of the surface, that 

they are marked on the maps by the 

numbers one, two, &c., and are com- 

! monly spoken of, by pilots and travel- 

j lers, by that designation. The same 

i may be said of the numerous islands, 



448 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA. 



many of which are hardly to be known 
apart, except by their position. 

Thj scene represented m the print is 
at one oi* the most considerable '• bends" 
on the lower part of the Mississippi. 
The land is low and flat, wearing that 
appearance which has before been de- 
scribed, rising but a few feet above the 
river's level at low-water-mark, and com- 
posed of such loose materials as to be 
in constant danger of removal by some 
of the frequent changes of the currents. 
The cui've which the stream takes at 
this place, where it sweeps away to the 
right, is so great, that, if the isthmus 
were cut through at its narrowest part, 
the passage would be reduced a great 
many miles. Preparations have been 
made to diminish the distance consider- 
ably, by cutting down the trees near 
the left-hand side of the print, to permit 
the river to find an unobstructed pas- 
sage across at the time of flood, by 
which means it may probably wear for 
itself a new channel. 

The tall tree which forms the most 
conspicuous object in the foreground, is 
a cypress, of a species which, with the 
cotton-tree, forms the principal growth 
in the native forests on this part of the 
shores. It is much used in building, 
and often covered with the moss, which 
is here represented as forming a thick 
canopy on its upper branches. 

This parasitical plant does not grow 
north of latitude thirty degrees, but is 
well known in the northern states as a 
very useful article, being purchased in 
great quantities for the stuffing of mat- 
tresses, cushions, &c., by iipholsterers 
and coachmakers. 

Canebrakes form a prevailing fea- 
ture in many of the marshy regions of 
Louisiana, as well as in other of the 
southern states. The peculiar nature 
of the plant which there occupies the 
soil, renders a canebrake different from 
every other kind of growth. It is well 
known, in its dry state, throughout most 
parts of our country, being extensively 
used for fishing-poles, and to some ex- 
tent in manufactures. 

The cane grows in one long, slender, 
upright stalk, from ten to twenty feet in 
height, giving out but a few thin leaves, 



especially when close together. Though 
hollow, it possesses great strength ; for 
it is jointed, and the texture is compact, 
and the external part is formed of a 
hard shelly substance containing silex. 
When green, it is also tough ; and the 
difficulty of penetrating a canebrake at 
any season of the year is so great as to 
be but seldom attempted, except where 
paths have been formed, by either cut- 
ting away or trampling down the canes 
when young. Paths once opened, and 
frequently travelled, remain passable, 
except when ovei-flown by the water — 
a state in which many of them often lie 
for a considerable part of the time. But 
when several paths cross each other, 
nothing is more easy than for a passen- 
ger to lose his way ; for the tops of the 
canes often bend over and meet above 
his head, so as to shut out a view even of 
the sky. Some idea may be formed of the 
peculiar appearance of a canebrake, by 
the sketch given in the vignette at the 
head of this description of the state. 

The value of Cotton, the staple pro- 
duction of this and the adjacent states, is 
shown in the following extract from a 
late English paper, giving a brief history 
of the progress o^ a 2>ound of cotton : — 

" There was sent off" for London, lately, 
from Glasgow, a small piece of muslin, 
about one pound in weight, the history 
of which is as follows : The cotton came 
from the United States to London; it 
was thence sent to Manchester and man- 
ufactured into yarn ; thence it was sent 
to Paisley, where it was woven ; thence 
to Ayrshire and there tamboured ; thence 
conveyed to Dumbarton and handsewed, 
and returned to Paisley ; thence to the 
county of Renfrew, bleached, and again 
returned to Paisley ; thence sent to Glas- 
gow, finished, and sent per coach to 
London. It is calculated that in two 
years from the time the muslin was first 
packed in America, its cloth arrived at 
the merchant's warehouse in London, 
having been conveyed 3,000 miles by 
sea, and 920 by land, and contributed 
to the support of at least 150 people, 
employed in its carriage and manufac- 
ture, by which the value has been ad- 
vanced 2,000 per cent. Such is descrip- 
tive of a considerable part of the trade." 




Texas was formerly a part of the 
republic of Mexico, but became in- 
dependent in 1836, and was an- 
nexed to the United States by a joint 
resolution of Congress, passed in 
March, 1845, and confirmed by a 
convention of the people of Texas, 
in July, 1845. It was finally ad- 
mitted into the Union as a state, 
by act of Congress passed in De- 
cember, 1845. 

The boundaries of Texas, as de- 
fined by an act of the Texan con- 
gress, were as follows: "Beginning 
at the mouth of the Sabine river, and running west along the gulf of Mexico, 
three leagues from land, to the mouth of the Rio Grande; thence up the princi- 
pal stream of that river to its source; thence due north to the forty-second degree 
of north latitude ; thence along the boundary line, as defined in the treaty between 
the United States and Spain, to the beginning." An act of Congress, the terms of 
which were accepted by Texas, in 1850, established her northern and western bound- 
aries as follows : " The state of Texas will h^vee that her boundary on the north shall 
commence at the point at which the meridian of one hundred degrees west from 
Greenwich is intersected by the pai-allel of thirty-six degrees and thirty minutes 
north latitude, and shall run fiom said point due west to the meridian of one liundred 
and three degrees west from Greenwich; thence her boundary shall run due south to 
the thirty-second degree of north latitude; thence on the said parallel of thirty-two 
degrees of north latitude to the Rio Bravo del Norte; and thence wiih the channel 
of said river to the gulf of Mexico. . . The United States, in consideration of said 
establishment of boundaries, will pay to the state df Tex;is the sum often millions of 



29 



450 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



dollars in a stock bearing five per cent, 
interest, and redeemable at the end of 
fourteen years, the interest payable half- 
yearly at the treasury of the United 
States. Immediately after the president 
of the United States shall have been fur- 
nished with an authentic copy of the act 
of the general assembly of Texas, ac- 
cepting these propositions, he shall cause 
the stock to be issued in favor of the state 
of Texas, as provided for in the fourth 
article of this agreement." 

The gulf of Mexico forms a line of 
st; coast of about four hundred miles in 
extent, on the southeastern boundary of 
Texas. 

The seacoast is very level, but free 
from marsh or swamp ; the soil is a rich 
alluvion of great depth. This region 
extends into the interior seventy-five 
miles. Most southern staples can be 
produced in this section in the greatest 
abundance and of the finest quality. The 
only peculiar diseases are bilious dis- 
tempers, and these by no means univer- 
sal or extremely severe. 

Above the level region commences 
the "rolling country." The soil is of 
an excellent quality, a rich sandy loam. 
The water is pure and healthy, streams 
clear and rapid, and the atmosphere 
purer than in the low country. This 
region covers the greatest proportion 
of Texas above the level district, and 
northeast of the Brazos river. No local 
causes for disease exist ; the facilities for 
farming are unrivalled ; most kinds of 
grain and fruit grow luxuriantly ; and it 
is unnecessary to exercise any further 
care over cattle and other stock than the 
herding and marking of the increase 
during the whole year. 

The northwestern and western por- 
tion is mountainous and broken, to 
within one hundred and fifty or one hun- 
dred and seventy-five miles of the coast. 
The valleys are rich, and the mountains 
abound in a variety of mineral produc- 
tions. Several valuable silver mines, 
once worked by the Spaniards, but aban- 
doned on account of the hostile Indians, 
have been recently discovered ; and 
some fine specimens of virgin gold. 
This region abounds with fine sti-eams 
of crystal water. 



It is a remarkable feature of Texas, 
that the bulk of the timber is imme- 
diately on the water-courses. Nearly 
every stream is lined with an abundance 
of timber, while the intei-vals between 
the streams are mostly prairie land, with 
groves, having the appearance of a park. 

The numerous rivers of Texas, run- 
ning in a parallel course., indicate the 
general surface to be one inclined plane, 
with a slope to the southeast. None of 
the rivers are of much importance for 
navigation, being in the dry season ex- 
tremely low, and during the floods im- 
peded with floating timber. 

The Rio Grande, or Rio del Norte, 
which forms the western boundary of 
Texas, is the largest river, having a 
course of from fifteen to eighteen hun- 
dred miles ; it is much impeded by rap- 
ids, and can be forded in nearly all 
parts of its course except for a distance 
of about two hundred miles from its 
mouth. The Sabine is three hundred 
and fifty miles, the Nueces three hun- 
dred, and the Trinity river four hun- 
dred miles in length ; all navigable a 
part of the year. The Rio Brazos is 
considered the best navigable stream in 
Texas ; vessels drawing six feet of wa- 
ter can ascend it to Brazoria ; and 
steamboats of light draught to San Fe- 
lipe de Austin, ninety miles higher. 
The Rio • Colorado rises in the high 
prairies east of the Puereo rivei*; and 
after a course of five hundred miles, falls 
into Matagorda bay. It is obstructed 
by a raft, of a mile in extent, about 
twelve miles above its mouth ; beyond 
which light vessels may ascend two hun- 
dred miles. The city of Austin, the 
seat of government, is situated on its 
left bank, near the foot of the mountains. 
La Baca and Navidad rivers are secon- 
dary streams, flowing into the La Baca 
bay. The Guadaloupe is a large stream 
of pellucid water ; two of its tributaries, 
the San Marcos and the Coleto, have 
their origin in fountains at the foot of 
the mountains. The San Antonio en- 
ters the Guadaloupe some distance above 
Espiritu Santo bay, and much resembles 
the Guadaloupe, though the forest on its 
banks is not so dense. It receives the 
Cibolo, the Medina, the Salado, Medio, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP TEXAS. 



451 



and Leon creeks, all rapid and clear 
streams. The San Jacinto is a minor 
river, flowing through much good land, 
abounding in pine timber; it falls into 
Galveston bay, which receives also the 
Trinity river, and Buffalo bayou (a small 
stream navigable to the city of Hous- 
ton). Galveston bay is a large body of 
water, having twelve feet on the bar at 
the entrance, and good anchorage inside. 
The Trinity river, its principal contribu- 
tor, is one of the largest rivers in Texas, 
and is navigable further up than any 
other of these rivers. Its banks ai'e 
lined with the choicest land and the best 
of timber. Numerous settlements are 
springing up on its banks. Several beds 
of coal, and some saline springs have 
been recently discovered on its margin. 
The river Nueces is a beautiful and rapid 
stream of considerable magnitude, and 
flows into Corpus Christi bay, which is 
accessible to vessels drawing six feet, 
with deep water inside. Below Espiritu 
Santo bay lies Aransazua bay, with a 
good entrance and twelve feet of water 
on the bar. It receives several small 
streams and one considerable river, the 
Aransas. The estuary of the Sabine 
river is a large bay, with sufficient depth 
of water for vessels of an ordinary 
draught, and a soft mud bar at the en- 
trance. There are several thriving towns 
on the banks of the Sabine, which are 
frequently visited by steamboats. 

The climate of Texas is mild and 
agreeable, and, as the country is free 
from swamps, is more healthful than the 
corresponding sections of the southern 
United States. The dry season lasts 
from April to September, and the wet 
season prevails during the rest of the 
year. The cold weather lasts a short 
time in December and January. The 
surface of the country is in most parts 
covered with luxuriant native grasses, 
affording excellent pasturage. As al- 
ready mentioned, timber is abundant, 
and among the varieties are live oak, 
white, black, and post oak, ash, elm, 
hickory, musquite, walnut, sycamore, 
bois d'arc, cypress, &c., and in the 
southeast parts pine and cedar of fine 
quality abound. 

Texas is amply supplied with fruits 



and garden products. The climate of 
the low lands is too warm for the apple, 
but almost every other fruit of temper- 
ate climes comes to perfection. Peach- 
es, melons, figs, oranges, lemons, pine- 
apples, dates, olives, &c., grow in differ- 
ent localities. Grapes are abundant ; 
vanilla, indigo, sai-saparilla, and a vari- 
ety of dying and medicinal shrubs and 
plants are indigenous, and on all the 
river bottoms is a thick growth of cane. 

Cotton is the principal staple of the 
state, and generally of a superior quali- 
ty, mostly cultivated on the Brazos, Col- 
orado, Red, and Trinity rivers, and 
Caney creek, but advancing in other 
quarters. Cotton-planting begins in Feb- 
ruary and picking in June. Indian corn 
and wheat are the principal grains cul- 
tivated. The sugar-cane has attained 
great perfection in Texas, also tobacco, 
common and sweet potatoes, and the 
mulberry-tree. The raising of live stock 
is the occupation of most of the people, 
and many of the prairies are covered 
with cattle, horses, mules, and sheep ; 
hogs are plentifiil, and large quantities 
of pork are raised for market. Vast 
herds of buffaloes and wild horses are 
seen on the prairies, and deer are eve- 
rywhere abundant. Bears, cougars, pan- 
thers, peccaries, wolves, foxes, and rac- 
coons, are among the other wild animals. 

To illustrate the manner of capturing 
the wild horses, called by the Spaniards 
mustangs, on the prairies of Texas, we 
insert the following description by one 
who has often engaged in the exciting 
chase, as well as an engraving of the 
scene : — 

" The pursuer provides himself with 
a strong noosed cord, made of twisted 
strips of green hide, which, thus pre- 
pared, is called a lazo, the Spanish word 
for a band or bond. He mounts a fleet 
horse, and fastens one end of his lazo to 
the animal, coils it in his left hand, leav- 
ing the extending noose to flourish in 
the air over his head. Selecting his 
game, he gives it chase ; and as soon as 
he approaches the animal he intends to 
seize, he takes the first opportunity to 
whirl the lazo over his head, and imme- 
diately checks his own charger. The 
noose instantly contracts around the neck 



452 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



of the fugitive mustang, and the creature 
is thrown violently down, sometimes un- 
able to move, and generally for the mo- 
ment deprived of breath. This violent 
method of arrest frequently injures the 
poor animal, and sometimes even kills 
him. If he escapes, however, with his 
life, he becomes of great service to his 
master, always remembering with great 
respect the rude instrument of his cap- 
ture, and ever after yielding immediate- 
ly whenever he feels the lazo upon his 
neck. 

" Being thus secured, the lazoed horse 
is blindfolded ; terrible lever, jaw-break- 
ing bits are put into his mouth, and he 
is mounted by a rider armed with most 
barbar(jus spurs. If the animal runs, he 
is spurred on to the top of his speed, un- 
til he tumbles down with exhaustion. 
Then he is turned about and spurred 
back again ; and if he is found able to 
run back to the point whence he started, 
he is credited with having bottom enough 
to make a good horse ; otherwise, he is 
turned off as of little or no value. This 
process of breaking mustangs to the bri- 
dle is a brutal one, and the poor ani- 
mals often carry the evidence of it as 
long as they live. After service during 
the day, they are hoppled by fastening 
their fore-legs together with a cord, and 
turned out to feed. To fasten them to 
one spot in the midst of a prairie, where 
neither tree, nor shrub, nor rock, is to be 
found, is quite a problem. But that is 
accomplished by putting on a halter, ty- 
ing a knot at the end, digging a hole 
about a foot deep in the earth, thrusting 
in the knot, and pressing the earth down 
around it. As the horse generally pulls 
nearly in a horizontal direction, he is 
unable to draw it out. 

" When a number are caught, they 
are generally driven to market, where 
they are purchased for three or four dol- 
lars, branded, hopjjled, then turned out 
and abandoned to themselves, until 
needed. At some future time they will 
doubtless become a valuable article of 
export." 

The present population of Texas is 
estimated to amount to over two hun- 
dred thousand, nearly all of whom are 
Americans — emigrants from the other 



United States. The population, accord- 
ing to the census of 1850, was 187,403, 
of whom about one fifth were slave:^. 
By the act of Congress admitting Texas 
into the Union, that state had two mem- 
bers of the house of representatives and 
has the same under the census of 1850. 
Texas was of course entitled to two 
members in the senate of the United 
Slates at the date of her admission. 

Texas, at the period of her admission, 
had but thirty-six organized counties ; 
she now (1851) numbers ninety. In 
many of these counties the increase of 
population, piincipally by emigration, 
has, it is estimated, since her adinission, 
been equal to fifty per cent. 

The principal towns in Texas are Gal- 
veston, the principal seaport, Houston, 
San Augustin, San Felipe de Austin, 
Nacogdoches, Austin, the present seat 
of government, Washington, for a while 
the temporary capital, San Antonio de 
Bexar, and a few others. 

In the eighteenth century Texas was 
nearly unknown, having only been oc- 
casionally traversed by the Spaniards, in 
their way from New Orleans to Mexico. 
About 1800, there were only two or 
three small military establishments, near 
which a few Spaniards had settled. In 
1807, Pike made it known that this 
country was distinguished by fertility 
of soil. From that time many citizens, 
of the United States wished to form 
settlements in Texas, but the policy of 
the Spanish court was not fa^oi'able to 
their designs. When Mexico obtained 
her independence, the government of 
the republic adopted a liberal system of 
colonization, inviting (in 1824) natives 
and foreigners to settle within the terri- 
tories of the republic, under very advan- 
tageous conditions. The first settlement 
was made by Colonel Austin, of Mis- 
souri, in his grant on the Rio Brazos, 
and called San Felipe de Austin. About 
this time the stream of emigration from 
the United States turned toward Texas. 
In 1833, the people of Texas formed 
for themselves a separate constitution, 
and insisted on a separation of their 
country from the state of Coahuila, to 
which it was united by a decree of the 
Mexican government. This being re- 



454 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



fused, and a central government estab- 
lished in Mexico, the Texans took up 
ai'ms in 1835, in defence of their rights 
and liberties, and the repul^lican princi- 
ples of the federal constitution of Mex- 
ico of 1824. The few Mexican soldiers 
stationed at Bexar were compelled to 
leave the country in December, 1835, 
after sustaining considerable loss in a 
battle with the Texans. The president 
of the Mexican republic, Santa Anna, 
however, marched into Texas at the 
head of a small army, and succeeded in 
getting possession of Bexar, the gai'ri- 
son of which he put to the sword; but 
in 1835 he was defeated on the banks 
of the river San Jacinto, with great 
slaughter, by a small body of Texans 
(Americans from the United States), 
under General Houston. Santa Anna 
was taken prisoner, but released on cer- 
tain conditions, among others, that the 
Mexican troops were to evacuate Texas, 
passing beyond the Rio Grande. No 
effective attempt was afterward made 
by the Mexicans to conquer Texas, and 
it became an independent republic, be- 
ing soon acknowledged as such by the 
United States, France, Great Britain, 
and some other nations. 

Galveston, two hundred and fifty-five 
miles from Austin, and three hundred 
and fifty west by north of the Southwest j 
pass of Mississippi river, is situated on I 
rising gi'ound, compactly built, on the i 
east part of Galveston island, with many 
good houses and several conspicuous 
churches and other public buildings. 
Galveston makes a favorable appearance 
from the water, and is rapidly extending 
its population and business. The settle- 
ment was begun in 1837, and has some 
large stores, several cotton presses, a 
university, two high schools, and a pop- 
ulation of about 7,000. The streets 
are wide and straight. The harbor is 
fine, and the bar has twelve feet of wa- 
ter. A regular communication is kept 
up with New Orleans by steam-packets, 
a daily line of boats runs to Houston, 
and other boats go to the Brazos, Trin- 
ity, and Sabine rivers. 

At Galveston, in the month of Octo- 
ber, the air has a temperature like mid- 
September. As you enter the harbor 



through the crooked channel studded on 
both sides with shoals and breakers, the 
gloomy pelicans saluting you on every 
side, the approach is both difficult and 
dangerous. The low, level, and sandy, 
but grass-covered island of Galveston, 
on which the city is situated, is about 
thirty miles long, and has on it but three 
small groups of native trees — though of 
fruit-trees there are plenty in the city, 
planted by the inhabitants. It is tolera- 
bly fertile, and, owing principally to the 
industiy of the German emigrants that 
have settled there, gardens of all kinds 
abound. It is healthy for all but those 
who expose themselves to the hot mid- 
day summer sun, and bring on attacks of 
the fever. It is considered more healthy 
at any season than New Orleans. Gal- 
veston bay is about sixty miles long and 
thirty-five wide, and in its deepest parts 
there is about twelve feet of water ; on 
its greatest, unavoidable shoals, there is 
about three feet. There are various 
islands in different parts of it ; the lar- 
gest is " Pelican," opposite the city of 
Galveston. This is, from one extremity 
to the other, about four miles long. It 
is destitute of timber, as are all the is- 
lands on the coast ; nevertheless, it is, 
during the spring season a great resort. 
Some visit it for the purpose of making 
pic-nics or chowders (for the last it is 
famous), others go for the sail, but most 
go for the purpose of gathering the 
myriads of eggs deposited by gulls and 
other aquatic birds. 

In Galveston bay about eighteen miles 
from the city is situated Red-fish bar. 
It is created by the influx of the Trinity 
and other rivers and extends entirely 
acroes the bay. It consists of a number 
of small islands through there are seve- 
ral navigable passes. Of these, the most 
esteemed at present is called the "East," 
but there is a better one, still more 
easterly, not much used at present, but 
which is superior to any other, having 
deeper water, and being more direct. 
It is called " Possum pass," partly be- 
cause it is a feasting gi'ound for that an- 
imal which, swimming from one island 
to another of the chain, repairs there 
for the purpose of devouring the eggs 
laid in the vicinity, and partly because 



456 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



it is hidden from sight until approached 
very near. Here there are spots, of 
acres in extent, covered with eggs of all 
flavors, colors, and sizes — and in every 
state of incubation, small boats make a 
trade in collecting them for market, and 
as the robbed birds, with the great- 
est perseverance, commence laying anew 
after each depredation, the egg-hunters 
reap an unfailing hai'vest while the sea- 
son lasts. When the squabs are hatched 
they make one of the most delicious 
items in the boatman's bill of fare. Sit- 
ting round their savory supper, these 
care-free rovers quaff their drams of 
whiskey, smoke their pipes, sing songs, 
and tell stories of wild life, beneath the 
clear sky, until tired, when, with their 
blankets around them, they seek a soft 
spot upon the sand. At the dawn, the 
shrill cry of the eagle in pursuit of his 
prey awakes the egg-hunters to business. 
Having laid in their stock of eggs, they 
commence the second but no less pleas- 
ant part of their trade. — this is fishing, for 
which this place is famous. 

The red-fish is the desired animal to 
the fishermen ; mullet, buffalo, cat-fish 
(a species of salmon), and countless 
numbers of less important classes offish 
abound. The fisher, with a small spear, 
commences searching in the various wa- 
ter-holes in the sand for crabs for bait ; 
then, fastening a crab to his hook, he 
casts it in, and in an instant some red- 
fish is hauled out flouncing upon the 
sand. Sometimes it is a closely-con- 
tested question whether the fish shall 
quit his element or the fisherman take a 
bath. Red-fish often weigk twenty-five 
pounds. They are a very vigorous fish, 
and of delicious flavor, either fresh or 
dried and salted, which is a favorite 
way of curing them. About eight miles 
above Red-fish bar, there is a group of 
islands famous for the great inducements 
they hold out to the sportsman — they 
are called the " Veintiuno," or Twenty- 
one isles. In the winter season their 
little harbors are filled with small craft 
and the ciaft with sportsmen, who make 
a little fortune during that season by the 
vast numbers of geese, brant, duck, and 
swan, they kill liere — selling their car- 
casses al Galveston, and curing their 



feathers for various markets. A swan 
skin will at any time bring a dollar. The 
appearance of a flock of these stately 
water-fowls is that of a floating island of 
half a mile square moving gracefully 
along over the water, now swiftly, now 
almost stationary, but pouring forth a 
continual boisterous bird-languao^e. In 
spite of their own din, however, they 
catch the slightest hostile sound. Should 
the sportsman crack a twig, move a bush, 
or crush a shell beneath his foot, the 
noisy conclave stops instantly, and, en 
masse, both their propellers and their 
throats. For an instant all is silent and 
motionless — bang ! then go the fowling- 
pieces, and perhaps one thousand of 
these birds, so graceful in the water but 
so awkward in flight, will stretch their 
wings, knocking each other down in their 
confusion, and, amid loud cries and great 
splashing of water, take themselves off 
as soon as possible, probably leaving 
thirty or forty of their comrades to be 
gathered up by the sportsmen. 

Houston, on Buffalo bayou, at the 
head of tide-water, is eighty-five miles 
from Galveston, and one hundred and 
eighty-eight from Austin. The situa- 
tion of this town is not only favorable 
and convenient, but, when seen from 
certain points, quite picturesque. The 
summit of the gentle eminence on 
which it is built is crowned by several 
churches, and the slope is thickly cov- 
ered with houses, many of which are 
small and simple in their constiiiction, 
as in most new, interior towns of Tex- 
as. The stream which flows at the base 
of the hill, meanders peacefully along, 
flowing under a handsome bridge of a 
single arch, and beneath the shade of 
some of the trees of the forest which 
have been spared in clearing the land. 
The distant scenes are varied by ridges 
of high gT'ound, which extend far away, 
with winding valleys between them. An 
extensive praii'ie adjoins it, and it is a 
place of much trade in cotton. Steam- 
boats run to Galveston, and stage-coaches 
to Washington. It contains four church- 
es, a courthouse, a number of large 
manufactories, and 6,000 inhabitants. 

Austin, the capital of Texas, is situ- 
ated on the east side of Colorado river, 



458 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TEXAS. 



two hundred miles ft-om the gulf of 
Mexico, on a plain elevated about thirty 
feet. The capitol, on the summit, is 
conspicuous from its position, and over- 
looks an extensive region. At a short 
distance from it is the governoi''s house. 
The population amounts to about 4,000. 

The governor of Texas is chosen by 
the people for two years, but is eligible 
only two years in six. He must be 
thirty-two years old, and have been a 
resident of the state three years previous. 
The lieutenant-governor is eligible un- 
der the same restrictions. There is a 
supreme court, and such district and in- 
ferior courts as the legislature shall ap- 
point. The legislature appoints the 
judges of the supreme court for six 
years, with the advice and consent of 
the senate. The senators are chosen 
by the people for two years, half being 
chosen each year. They must be thirty- 
two years old, and residents for the last 
three years. The representatives are 
chosen for two years, by the people, and 
must be twenty-one years old, citizens 
of the United States, and residents of 
the state of Texas for one year, and of 
the county for the last six months. The 
legislature meets once in two years. 

Matagorda, one hundred and ninety- 
eight miles southeast from Austin, and 
thirty-five from the Caballo pass, stands 
on the Colorado, and has a customhouse, 
two chui'ches, an academy, and 700 in- 
habitants. Steamboats run to New Or- 
leans and Galveston. 

San Felipe de Austin, on the west 
bank of the Brazos, is one hundred and 
twenty miles from Austin, and contains 
2,000 inhabitants. It was burnt by the 
Texan army, in the war, but has been 
rebuilt. 

San Augustin, twenty-seven miles 
from the Sabine, and three hundred and 
sixty east-northeast from Austin, is built 
on the Ayish bayou, and contains about 
2,500 inhabitants. It is one of the best- 
built and best-situated towns in Texas, 
in a healthy region of rolling country. 

The University of San Augustin is in 
this place. It was incorporated in 1837, 
and has two professors in the male de- 
partment, and three instructors in the 
female. 



I The Wesleyan college has four in- 
I structors and a president, with depart- 
ments for the two sexes. 

Washington. — This town is situated 
at the head of ordinary navigation on 
the Brazos, one hundred and thirty- 
three miles from Austin, and contains 
about 3,000 inhabitants, with a court- 
house, four churches, and a number of 
large manufactories. 

Nacogdoches, is sixty miles west of 
the Sabine and two hundred and fifty 
distant from Austin, near the head of 
Angelina river. It was formerly a mili- 
tary post, but is now a town* of 2,000 
inhabitants, and contains a university of 
the same name, with two professors. 

San Antonio de Bexar. — This place, 
celebrated for the destruction of a band 
of Texan soldiers in the Alamo or cita- 
del, in the Mexican war, is ninety miles 
south by west of Austin, on the upper 
part of San Antonio river, and formerly 
contained 8,000 inhabitants, but has now 
only about 2,000. 

Corpus Christi, two hundred and 
fifty south of Austin, stands at the head 
of a bay, and contains a population of 
about 800, being connected with other 
towns on the coasts by steamboats. 

Bastrop. — This town stands on the 
east side of Colorado river, where it is 
crossed by the road to San Antonio, in 
the midst of a rich prairie, and has 
about 700 inhabitants. 

Brazoria is on the right bank of the 
Brazos rivei', about thirty miles above 
the sea. It is a place of considerable 
trade, and has about 900 inhabitants. 

From April to September the ther- 
mometer, in different parts of the state, 
has been found at a general average to 
range from sixty-three to one hundred 
degrees. These great heats, however, 
are tempered by continual and strong 
breezes, which commence soon after 
sunrise and continue till three or four 
o'clock in the afternoon, and the nights 
are cool throughout the year. 

Among the natural curiosities of Texas 
are the " Cross Timbers," consisting of 
two lines of continuous forest, varying in 
width irom five to fifty miles, extending in 
almost a direct line from the sources of 
the Trinity northward to the Arkansas. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



4o9 




Tins state is bounded north by 
Missouii, east by the Mibsi.ssippi 
river, and south l)y Louisiana. 

It is naturally divided into three 
distiirts. Tlie east part is gen- 
erally level ; and, lying along the 
Mississippi, White, St. Francis, 
and Arkansas rivers, is subject to 
inundations in the spring. Some 
portions of this section are prairie 
land, but most of it is covered with 
forests. When cleared, the soil 
is generally good. The second or 
middle district is watered by some 
of the upper tributaries of the 
White and Ouachitta rivers, and the main part of the Arkansas and Red rivers. 
The surface is broken, but has large prairies. The third district, in the north 
and northwest, is mountainous, but with extensive prairies intermingled. 

This state is remarkably well supplied with navigable streams. The St. Fran- 
cis comes in across tlie northern boundary, and after flowing one hundred and 
twenty miles, falls into the Mississippi about sixty miles above the mouth of 
White river. White river, which is a stream of much superior size, has its rise 
in two branches north of this state, and, after a course of one hundred and twenty 
miles, enters the Mississippi fifteen miles above the mouth of the Arkansas. 

The Arkansas is navigable far into the interior, though considerably impeded 
by falls. The Ouachitta is formed by the confluence of numerous branches, rising 
in the Masserne mountains, between the Red river and Arkansas. It is naviga- 
ble, when the water is high, for a distance of two hundred miles, including the 
windings of the stream, in large boats. Red river has but a small part of its 
course in this state, crossing the northwest corner. 



460 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



Several very extensive salt-prairies in 
the interior affect the water of many of 
the streams, which has a brackish taste. 
Salt-springs are numerous. 

The scenery along the Mississippi, in 
this part of its course, is well described 
in the following extract from the jour- 
nal of a late English traveller : — 

'' The American forests are generally 
remarkable for the entire absence of un- 
derwood, so that they are easily pene- 
trable by a foot-traveller, and generally 
even by a mounted one. But in the 
neighborhood of the Mississippi there 
is, almost uniformly, a thick under- 
growth of cane, varying in height from 
four or five to about twenty feet, accord- 
ing to the richness of the soil. Through 
this thicket of cane I should think it 
quite impossible to penetrate ; yet, I 
have been assured, the Indians do so for 
leagues together, though by what means 
they contrive to guide their course, 
where vision is manifestly impossible, 
it is not easy to understand. 

" It has been the fashion with travel- 
lers to talk of the scenery of the Missis- 
sippi as wanting grandeur and beauty. 
Most certainly it has neither. But there 
is no scenery on earth more striking. 
The dreary and pestilential solitudes, 
untrodden save by the foot of the In- 
dian ; the absence of all living objects, 
sa.ve the huge alligators which float past, 
apparently asleep, on the drift-wood; 
and an occasional vulture, attracted by 
its impure prey on the surface of the 
waters ; the trees, with a long and hid- 
eous drapery of pendent moss, fluttering 
in the wind ; and the giant river, rolling 
onward the vast volume of its dark and 
turbid waters through the wilderness — 
form the features of one of the most dis- 
mal and impressive landscapes on which 
the eye of man ever rested^ .... No 
other I'iver in the world drains so large 
a portion of the earth's surface. It is 
the traveller of five thousand miles, more 
than two thirds of the diameter of the 
globe. The imagination asks, whence 
come its waters, and whither tend they 1 
They come from the distant regions of 
a vast continent, where the foot of civil- 
ized man has never yet been planted. 
They flow into an ocean yet vaster, the 



whole body of which acknowledges their 
influence. Through what varieties of 
climate have they passed 1 On what 
scenes of lonely and sublime magnifi- 
cence have they gazed ? In short, when 
the traveller has asked and answered 
these questions and a thousand others, it 
will be time enough to consider how far 
the scenery of the Mississippi would be 
improved by the presence of rocks and 
mountains. He may then be led to 
doubt whether any great effect can be 
produced by a combination of objects 
of discordant character, however grand 
in themselves. The imagination is, per- 
haps, susceptible but of a single power- 
ful impression at a time. Sublimity is 
uniformly connected with unity of ob- 
ject. Beauty may be produced by the 
happy adaptation of a multitude of har- 
monious details; but the highest sub- 
limity of effect can proceed but from one 
glorious and paramount object, which 
impresses its own character on every- 
thing aroiyid. 

" The prevailing character of the 
Mississippi is that of solemn gloom. I 
have trodden the passes of Alp and Ap- 
ennine, yet never felt how awful a thing 
is nature, till I was borneeon its waters 
through regions desolate and uninhab- 
itable. Day after day, and night after 
night, we continued driving right down- 
ward to the south ; our vessel, like some 
huge demon of the wilderness, bearing 
fire in her bosom, and canopying the 
eternal forest with the smoke of her nos- 
trils. ... I passed my time in a sort of 
dreamy contemplation. At night I as- 
cended to the highest deck, and lay for 
hours gazing listlessly on the sky, the 
forest, and the waters, amid silence only 
broken by the clanging of the engine. 
All this was very pleasant ; yet, till I 
reached New Orleans, I could scarcely 
have smiled at the best joke in the 
world ; and as for raising a laugh — it 
would have been quite as easy to square 
the circle. 

" The bends or flexures of the Missis- 
sippi are regular in a degree unknown 
in any other river. The action of run- 
ning water, in a vast alluvial plain like 
that of the basin of the Mississippi, with- 
out obstruction from rock or mountain, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



461 



may he calculated with the utmost pre- 
cision. Whenever the course of a river 
diverges in any degree from a riglit line, 
it is evident that the current can no long- 
er act with equal force on both its banks. 
On one side the impulse is diminished, 
on the other increased. The tendency 
in these sinuosities, therefore, is mani- 
festly to increase, and the stream which 
hollows out a portion of one bank, being 
rejected to the other, the process of 
curvature is still continued, till its chan- 
nel presents an almost unvarying suc- 
cession of salient and retiring angles. 

" In the Mississippi the flexures are 
so extremely great, that it often happens 
that the isthmus which divides different 
portions of the river gives way. A few 
months before my visit to the south, a 
remarkable case of this kind had hap- i 
pened, by which forty miles of naviga- 1 
tion had been saved. The opening thus 
formed was called the new cut. Even ] 
the annual changes which take place in j 
the bed of the Mississij)pi are very re- I 
markable. Islands spring up and dis- 
appear ; shoals suddenly jjresent them- 
selves where pilots have been accus- 
tomed to deep water; in many places, 
whole acres are swept away from one 
bank and added to the other ; and the 
pilot assured me that in every voyage 
he could perceive fresh changes. 

" Many circumstances contribute to 
render these changes more rapid in 
the Mississippi than in any other river. 
Among these, perhaps the greatest is 
the vast volume of its waters, acting on 
alluvial matter, peculiarly penetrable. 
The river, when in flood, spreads over 
the neighboring country, in which it 
has formed channels called bayous. The 
banks thus become so saturated with 
water, that they can oppose little resist- 
ance to the action of the current, which 
frequently sweeps off" large portions of 
the forest. 

" The immense quantity of drift-wood 
is another cause of change. Floating 
logs encounter some obstacle in the 
liver, and become stationary. The mass 
gradually accumulates ; the water, sat- 
urated with mud, deposites a sediment ; 
and thus an island is formed, which soon 
becomes covered with vesretation. A 



few years ago, the Mississipf)! was sur- 
veyed by order of the government, and 
its islands, from the confluence of the 
Missouri to the sea, were numbered. I 
remember asking the pilot the name of 
a very beautiful island, and the answer 
was, ' Five-hundred-and-seventy-three,' 
the number assigned to it in the hydro- 
graphical survey, and the only name by 
which it was known. 

" A traveller on the Mississippi has 
little to record in the way of incident. 
For a week we continued our course, 
stopping only to take in wood, and on 
occasion to take in cargo. 

" One of the most striking circum- 
stances' connected with this rivei'-voyage 
was the rapid change of climate. Barely 
ten days had elapsed since I was trav- 
ersing mountains almost impassable from 
snow. Even the level country was par- 
tially covered with it, and tlie approach 
of spring had not been heralded by any 
symptom of vegetation. Yet in little 
more than a week I found myself in the 
region of the sugarcanes. 

" The progress of this transition was 
remarkable. During the first two days 
of the voyage, nothing like a blossom 
or a green leaf was to be seen. On the 
third, slight signs of vegetation were 
visible on a few of the hardier trees. 
These gradually became more general 
as we approached the Mississippi ; but 
then, .though our course lay almost due 
south, little change was apparent for a 
day or two. But after passing Mem- 
phis, in latitude thirty-five degrees, all 
nature became alive. The trees which 
grew on any little eminence, or which 
did not spring immediately from the 
swamp, wei-e covered with foliage; and 
at our woodiiig-times, when I rambled 
through the woods, there were a thou- 
sand shrubs already bursting into flower. 
On reaching the lower regions of the 
Mississippi, all was brightness and ver- 
dure. Summer had already begun, and 
the heat was even disagreeably intense. 

" Shortly after enteiing Louisiana, 
the whole wildness of the Mississippi 
disappears. The l)anks are all culti- 
vated, and nothing was to.be seen but 
plantations of sugar, cotton, and rice, 
with the houses of their owners, and the 



462 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP ARKANSAS. 




Rocky Bluffs on the Mississippi. 



little adjoining hamlets inhabited by the 
slaves. Here and there were orchards 
of orange-trees, but these occurred too 
seldom to have much influence on the 
landscape." 

Rocky Bluffs. — In some parts the 
banks of the Mississippi present an as- 
pect widely different from that of the 
prevailing scenery in this state. At 
that point especially which is represent- 
ed in the above engraving, the eye is 
struck by bold outlines rising far above 
the ordinary level of the alluvion. The 
three rocky bluffs here seen standing 
side by side, at equal distances and of 
nearly equal size, are terminated in small 
horizontal terraces, which seem to in- 
dicate that they are the remains of an 
ancient high plain, elsewhere torn away 
or sunk by some tremendous convulsion 
of nature. These eminences stand like 
castles, fabricated by gigantic hands, or 
cut out of the living rock, with sides 
lemarkably perpendicular, smooth, and 
uniform ; and the crevices which here 
and there mark the surface, occur at 
such points find of such forms as to bear 
a considerable resemblance to windows, 
loopholes, and embrasures. 



The picturesque effect of these bluffs 
is much increased by their singularity, 
and the extreme rarity of eminences of 
all kinds along the lower pai'ts of the riv- 
er's course. The narrow belt of low- 
land which intervenes between the water 
and the bases of the rocks, with the scat- 
tering trees and groves by which it is 
partly shaded, and the masses of forest- 
foliage which form the background, com- 
bine to render this wild scene one of the 
most striking and pleasing to the eye 
of the traveller. 

In the water is seen one of the flat- 
bottomed boats before mentioned. They 
are constructed with skill, and well serve 
the purpose for which they are designed, 
although formed of boards fastened by 
a few timbers. Being filled with large 
quantities of various articles, they float 
down to New Orleans with the current, 
and seldom suffer injury on the way. 

There is an Indian tradition that the 
Kansas tribe were utterly destroyed at 
this place by their enemies. Their to- 
tem, or pretended guardian spirit, was 
a white fawn. An animal of this de- 
scription, it was said, afterward haunted 
the spot at night. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



463 



Description of a Prairie, by Al- 
bert Pike. — The world of prairie which 
lies at a distance of more than three 
hundred miles west of the inhabited por- 
tions of the United States, and south of 
the river Arkansas and its branches, has 
been rarely, and parts of it never, trod- 
den by the foot, or beheld by the eye, 
of an Anglo-American. Rivers rise 
there, in the broad level waste, of which, 
mighty though they become in their 
course, the source is unexplored. Des- 
erts are there, too barren of grass to 
support even the hardy buffalo, and in 
which water, except in here and there 
a hole, is never found. Ranged over 
by the Camanches, the Pawnees, and 
Caiwas, and other equally wandering, 
savage, and hostile tribes, its vei-y name 
is a mystery and a terror. The Paw- 
nees have their villages entirely north 
of this part of the country ; and the war 
parties, always on foot, ai'e seldom to 
be met with to the south of the Cana- 
dian, except close in upon the edges of 
the white and civilized Indian settle- 
ments. Extending on the south to the 
Rio del Norte, on the north to a distance 
unknown, eastwardly to within three or 
four hundred miles of the edge of Ar- 
kansas territory, and westwardly to the 
Rocky mountains, is the range of the 
Camanches. Abundantly supplied with 
good horses from the immense herds of 
the prairie, they range, at different times 
of tlie year, over the whole of this vast 
country. Their war and hunting par- 
ties follow the buffalo continually. In 
the winter they may be found in the 
south, encamped along the Rio del Norte, 
and under the mountains ; and in the 
summer on the Canadian, and to the 
north of it, and on the Pecos. Some- 
times they haunt the Canadian in the 
winter, but not so commonly as in the 
summer. It is into this great Ameri- 
can desert that I wish to conduct my 
readers. 

Imagine yourself standing in a plain 
to which your eye can see no bounds. 
Not a tree, nor a bush, not a shrub, nor 
a tall weed, lifts its head above the bar- 
ren grandeur of the desert ; not a stone 
is to be seen upon its hard-beaten sur- 
face ; no undulations, no abruptness, no 



break, to relieve the monotony — noth- 
ing, save here and there a deep narrow 
ti'ack, worn into the hard plain by the 
constant hoof of the buffalo. Imagine, 
then, countless herds of buffalo, showing 
their unwieldly, dark shapes, in every 
direction as far as the eye can reach, and 
approaching at times to within forty 
steps of you ; or a herd of wild horses 
feeding in the distance, or hurrying away 
from the hateful smell of man, with their 
manes floating, and a trampling like 
thunder. Imagine here and there a sol- 
itary antelope, or perhaps a whole herd, 
fleeting off in the distance, like the scat- 
tering of white clouds. Imagine bands 
of white, snow-like wolves, prowling 
about, accompanied by the little gray 
collotes or prairie-wolves, who are as 
rapacious and as noisy as their bigger 
brethren. Imagine, also, here and there 
a lonely tiger-cat, lying crouched in 
some little hollow, or bounding off in 
triumph, bearing some luckless little 
prairie-dog, which it has caught strag- 
gling about at a distance from his hole. 
If to this you add a band of Camanches, 
mounted on noble swift horses, with 
their long lances, their quiver at the 
back, their bow, perhaps their gun, and 
their shield ornamented gaudily with 
feathers and red cloth, and round as Ner- 
val's, or as the full moon ; and imagine 
them hovering about in different places, 
chasing the buffalo or attackinsr an en- 
emy — yon have an image of the prairie, 
such as no book ever described ade- 
quately to me. 

I have seen the prairie under all its 
diversities, and in all its appearances, 
from those which I have described, to 
the uneven, bushy prairies which lie 
south of Red river, and to the illimit- 
able Stake prairie, which lies from al- 
most under the shadow of the mountains 
to the heads of the Brazos and of Red 
river, and in which neither buffaloes nor 
horses are to be found. I have seen 
the prairie, and lived in it, in summer 
and in winter. I have seen it with the 
sun rising calmly from its breast, like 
a sudden fire kindled in the dim distance, 
and with the sunset flushing in the sky 
with quiet and sublime beauty. There 
is less of the gorgeous and grand char- 



464 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



acter, liowever, belonging to it, than 
that which accompanies the rise and set 
of the sun upon the ocean, or upon the 
mountains ; but there are beauty and 
sublimity enough to attract the atten- 
tion and interest the mind. 

I have also seen the mirage, painting 
lakes, and fires, and groves, on the grassy 
ridges near the bounds of Missouri, in 
the still autumn afternoon, and cheating 
the traveller by its splendid deceptions. 
I have seen the prairie, and stood long 
and weary guard in it, by moonlight and 
starlight, and in storm. It strikes me 
as the most magnificent, stern, and ter- 
ribly grand scene on earth. A storm in 
the prairie is much like a storm at sea, 
except in one respect — and in that it 
seems to me to be superior — the still- 
ness of the desert and illimitable plain, 
while the snow is raging over its sur- 
face, is always more fearful to me than 
the wild roll of the waves ; and it seems 
unnatural — this dead quiet, while the 
upper elements are so fiercely disturbed ! 
it seems as if there ought to be the roll 
and roar of the waves. The sea, the 
woods, the mountains, all suffer in com- 
parison with the prairie — that is, on 
the whole ; in particular circumstances, 
either of them is superior. We may 
speak of the incessant motion and tu- 
mult of the waves of the ocean ; the un- 
bounded greenness and dimness, and the 
lonely music, of the forests ; and the 
high magnificence, the precipitous gran- 
deur, and the summer snow of the glit- 
tering cones of the mountains : but still 
the prairie has a stronger hold upon 
the soul, and a more powerful, if not so 
vivid an impression upon the feelings. 
Its sublimity arises from its unbounded 
extent — its barren monotony and desola- 
tion — its still, unmoved, calm, stern, and 
most impressive grandeur — its strange 
power of deception — its want of echo — 
and, in fine, its power of throwing a man 
back upon himself, and giving him a 
feeling of lone helplessness, strangely 
mingled at the same time with a feeling 
of liberty and freedom from restraint. 
It is particularly sublime as you draw 
nigh to the Rocky mountains, and see 
them shoot up in the west, with their 
lofty tops looking like white clouds rest- 



ing upon their summits. Nothing ever 
equalled the intense feeling of delight 
with which I at first saw the eternal 
mountains marking the western edo-e of 
the desert. 

The constitution of the state of Ar- 
kansas was adopted in 1836, in which 
year it was admitted into the Union. 
The governor is chosen for four years, 
and prohibited to hold oflfice more than 
eight years in twelve. Senators are 
chosen for four years by the people, and 
representatives for two years. Elec- 
tions are made viva voce. The senate 
can never consist of fewer than seven- 
teen members, or more than thirty-three ; 
the house of representatives from fifty- 
four to one hundred. The legislature 
meets once in two years. Judges of 
the supreme court are appointed by the 
legislature for eight years, those of the 
circuit court for four years. The judges 
of the county courts are chosen by jus- 
tices of the peace. 

Every white male citizen of the 
United States is entitled to vote after a 
residence of two years. 

There are ten academies and one hun- 
dred and fifty common schools in the 
state. 

Little Rock. — This town is the cap- 
ital of Arkansas, and is situated on the 
right bank of the Arkansas river, on an 
elevated and rocky bluff, one hundred 
and fifty feet above its level. The dis- 
tance from New Orleans by the .course 
of the stream is nine hundred and five 
miles. This is the first place, west of 
the Mississippi, where rocks present 
themselves above the surface of the im- 
mense alluvion which lies on its west- 
ern border. 

Tlie town contains the statehouse, the 
penitentiary, an arsenal of the United 
States, a land-oflfice, two banks, five 
churches, a theatre, an academy, and 
over four thousand inhabitants. 

Steamboats go to New Orleans, and 
up the river to Fort Gibson. Stage- 
coaches leave the town three times a 
week for Washington ; and also for Van 
Buren, St. Louis via Batesville, and 
Frederickstown (Missouri) ; and twice 
a week for Rock Koe, whence steam- 
boats ofo to New Orleans. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS. 



465 



Arkansas Post is on the left bank of 
Arkansas river, six hundred and eighty- 
five miles above New Orleans. It stands 
on an elevated piece of ground, and has 
a courthouse with about two hundred 
inhabitants. Steamboats run hence to 
Little Rock and New Orleans. 

Helena. — This is a small town on 
the bank of the Mississippi, and contains 
about five hundred inhabitants. It has 
a land-office and a courthouse. Steam- 
boats touch from New Orleans and the 
principal cities of the Mississippi and 
its branches. 

Hot Springs is six miles north of 
Ouachitta river, and sixty miles distant 
fiom Little Rock. It contains about 
one hundred inhabitants with a court- 
house. It is situated near a mountain, 
from the base of which, on the western 
side, flow the springs which have given 
a name and celebrity to the place ; they 
are about fifty in number, and empty 
into a small stream, which is one of the 
branches of the Ouachitta. The springs 
are warm, differing in temperature from 
one hundred and ten to one hundred and 
fifty degrees Fahrenheit, and bear a 
high character for their restorative qual- 
ities, especially in chronic rheumatism, 
scrofula, gout, and several cutaneous 
affections. 

Good accommodations are provided 
for visiters, who resort to the place in 
considerable numbers. 

The Ghalyheate Springs are three 
miles northeast of the Hot springs, and 
are no less esteemed. The water is 
cold, and impregnated with iron. 

The Sulphur Springs, thirty miles 
from Hot springs, have been known only 
a short time. 

Statistics. — According to the census 
of 1840, the whole amount of the popu- 
lation of the state was 97,574 ; of whom 
there were 42,211 white males, 34,963 
white females, 19,935 slaves, and 465 
free colored persons. By the census of 
1850, the population of Arkansas was, 
162,225 whites, 590 free-colored persons, 
and 45,075 slaves; total 207,890. 

Indians. — Some poor remains of 
tribes once inhabiting the fertile fields 
of Arkansas, are still to be seen, but in a 
degraded and wretched condition. The 



following translations of speeches made 
many years ago by two chiefs, one of 
them belonging to the Arkansas nation, 
too plainly indicate the destructive ef- 
fects of demoralizing intercourse on the 
one hand, and of the wars by which 
they were reduced to subjection on the 
other. 

The following is a speech of an In- 
dian, from the Arkansas tribe, directed 
to Bossu, a Frenchman. In the year 
1770, Bossu, of whom we have a good 
account of his travels through North 
America, visited the Arkansas tribe, 
among whom he had formerly lived many 
years. They received him in the most 
friendly manner. After dinner, an In- 
dian orator arose, and showing hia re- 
spect to the chief and the nation, thus 
addressed Bossu : " It is a long time. 
Father, that we have not seen thy face. 
Our whole nation rejoices to see thee 
walk again on our earth, which is white, 
and has never been stained with the 
blood of thy nation. All thy children, 
the Arkansas, have wept for thee, not 
knowing what fate, since fourteen har- 
vests and six moons, had met thee. 
We hope now that thou wilt no more 
cross the great salty sea, in order to re- 
turn to the great village of the French- 
men, where thou hast been, and where, 
according to reports, thou wast impris- 
oned in a locked cottage (called Bastile), 
because bad reports were raised against 
thee through the speaking bark,'' mean- 
ing letters. " If thou hadst remained 
with us, this would not have happened 
to thee. Here the strong does not op- 
press the weak. The malicious is not 
happy, and good men are not punished. 
Here the red men do not kill their breth- 
ren, as the white men do, for land and 
yellow iron," meaning gold, " which we 
despise. Here the earth nourishes us, 
which we cultivate, without trouble. 
Those to whom it gives the most, do not 
treasure up their harvest of potatoes, 
maize, or Indian corn, in order to obtain 
advantage from the misfortunes of oth- 
ers, and to rob them of their provisions, 
like the Europeans. On the contrary, 
the Arkansas rejoice if they can sup 
port widows, orphans, the aged, and the 
helpless. Here we live contented, with- 



30 



466 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ARKANSAS 



out being tormented by burning pas- 
sions, like the white men, and without 
committing murders or terrific crimes. 
Every one is here subject to the will 
of the great Spirit. Here, every man 
serves him, in the best manner, in a 
plain temple without decorations, under 
the shade of an ancient green tree, from 
which flows an odoriferous gum. Re- 
main for ever with us, and let our people 
be thy people." 

Tn the year 1720, a savage, from the 
Cliitimachas nation, had murdered a 
Fiench missionary. Bienville, gover- 
nor of Louisiana, declared and made 
war against the whole nation. Peace 
was obtained, on presenting the head 
of the murderer. In pi-nducing the cal- 
umet of peace, one of the Indians ad- 
dressed the governor thus : " My heart 
laughs for joy to see thy face. All of 
us have heard the word of peace which 
thou hast sent. The heart of the whole 
nation laughs so for joy, as to hear it 
beat. Our women, in this moment, have 
forgotten the past, and have danced, and 
our children have jumped like young 
fawns. On thy command, we will run 
and jump, like deer, to please thee. O 
how beautiful is the sun to-day, in com- 
parison with that time when thou wast 
angry at us ! How dangerous is a bad 
man ! Thou knowest that only one has 
killed the praying chief," the mission- 
ary, " whose death has brought our best 
warriors to the grave. We are only 
left with old men, women, and children, 
who stretch forth their hands to thee as 
a good father. The gall which for- 
merly filled thy heart has been changed 
into honey. The great Spirit is no more 
angry against our nation. 

" Thou hast requested the head of 
the bad man, to make peace, and we 
have sent it. Heretofore the sun was 
red, the road was covered with briers 
and thorns, the clouds were black, the 
water thick and colored with blood. Our 
women wept, without cessation, over 
their dying men and relations, and were 
afraid even to fetch wood, to prepare 
our food. Our children wept for fear ; 
our warriors were under arms, at the 
least screech of the night-owl, and they 
slept in no other manner than with their 



tomahawks in their hands. Our wicr. 
wams were forsaken, and our fields were 
uncultivated. We all appeared with 
empty stomachs and long faces. The 
venison took flight before us ; the ser- 
pents hissed for anger, and lengthened 
their stings ; the birds, nestling near our 
wigwams, by their mournful voices sang 
obituary tunes. But to-day, the sun is 
brilliant, the sky is clear, the clouds 
have moved, the roads are covered with 
roses, our gardens and fields will be 
cultivated, and we will offer to the great 
Spirit the firstlings of their fruits. The 
water is so clear that it represents to us 
our image ; the serpents take flight, or 
are changed into eels ; the birds i-ejoice 
as by their sweet song; our women and 
children dance and jump, that they for- 
get to eat and drink. The heart of the 
whole nation laughs for joy, that, at 
present, we thy people can walk united 
on the same road. The same sun will 
give light to us both. We will have but 
one united word, and our hearts shall 
be one. Whoever will kill the French- 
men, them will we kill. Our warriors 
shall go hunting to kill venison for them, 
and then we will eat all togethei\ Is 
this not good 1 What dost thou say to 
this, father 1" 

When we take into view the extent 
of the territory of this state, with its 
variety of surface and soil — the number, 
directions, and navigable character of 
its streams, and the favorable nature of 
the climate — we can not but anticipate a 
rapid increase in population and vi'ealth. 
Unfavorable circumstances indeed exist, 
but not gi-eater than in many older states 
in its neighborhood, which have made, 
and are still making, great advances. 

Early and due attention to public 
education and moral improvement, can 
hardly be overlooked by the intelligent, 
virtuous, and public-spirited inhabitants 
of Arkansas ; and here, as elsewhere, 
they will prove the most solid founda- 
tions of permanent prosperity. With 
so many sad warnings as are here pre- 
sented, on the one hand, of the dangers 
of delay, and, on the other, the noble 
examples set by some other states, the 
Americans have enough to show them 
" in what their great strength lieth." 




This state is bounded iiortli 
by Kentucky, northeast by Vir- 
ginia, east by North Carolina, 
southeast by Georgia, southwest 
by Mississippi, west by the Mis- 
sissippi river, which separates it 
from Arkansas, and northwest 
by Missouri. The main Appa- 
lachian ridge forms the boundary 
line for one hundred and sixty- 
eight miles, from the south bor- 
der of Virginia to Macon county ; 
and the entire outline is 1,171 
miles. It is between 35^ and 
36C 7' north latitude, and 4° 39' 
and 13^ 14' west longitude from Washington. The longest straight line that can 
be drawn in this state, is from the northeast to the southwest corner — south sev- 
enty-seven degrees by calculation — almost five hundred miles. The mean length 
of the state is four hundred miles ; the mean breadth, one hundred and fourteen ; 
and the mean area, forty-five thousand six hundred, or above twenty-nine millions 
of square acres. 

This state is divided into two natural sections. The first and smaller occupies 
a large part of the valley of Tennessee river, and is two hundred and eighty 
miles long from southwest to northeast, with a medium breadth of fifty-seven 
miles, whioh embraces a little less than one third of the state. Its southern 
limit is the ridge of Cumberland mountains, and it is elevated, cool, and diversi- 
fied in surface, with a good soil, pure air, and an abundance of excellent water. 
It deserves to be ranked am Dug the most attractive portions of the United States. 
The climate forbids the culture of the staples of the lower and warmer parts of 
the moi-e southern districts, and grasses and grain are more natural to it. This 



468 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



section has a rapid declivity toward the 
southwest, and is, in fact, the reverse 
side of the southern and highest section 
of Kentucky, which occupies the north 
slope of the same ridge. 

The western section, embracing above 
two thii'ds of the state and called West- 
ern Tennessee, is subdivided by its riv- 
ers into two parts, the northern of which 
embraces parts of the Cumberland and 
Tennessee valleys, the area lying in the 
former being eleven thousand nine hun- 
dred square miles, and that in the lat- 
ter ten thousand square miles. Central 
Tennessee has a declivity toward the 
west, though Tennessee river has there 
a north course. Beyond that region, 
Western Tennessee slopes toward the 
Mississippi, into which it is drained. 
That portion of the state has a super- 
ficies of seven thousand, seven hundred 
and forty square miles, and contains the 
following rivers, which empty into the 
Mississippi : the Obion, Forked Deer, 
Big Hatchee, and Wolf. These streams 
have a remarkable resemblance in their 
courses, all of them flowing in parallel 
curves, first northwest, then west, and 
finally southwest. The declivity down 
which they flow rises at about the dis- 
tance of twenty-five miles west of Ten- 
nessee river, and descends westward by 
a gentle slope. 

This state, when first known to white 
men, was covered with a thick forest, in 
which the growth varied greatly, ac- 
cording to the various elevation, soil, 
and relative situation of different parts. 
These are very diversified, from the 
highest points of Cumberland mountains 
to the rich valleys beside the principal 
rivers, and the low, inundated banks of 
the Mississippi. 

History. — The whole territory of 
Tennessee was embraced by the second 
charter of North Carolina, gi-anted by 
Charles the Second in 1664 ; but the 
first settlement was made in 1754. This 
was not a permanent one ; for the few 
families composing it, being much ex- 
posed to the Indians in their remote po- 
sition on Cumberland rivei', were obliged 
to abandon it in the French war. In 
1757, Fort London was erected on the 
Little Tennessee river, about a mile 



above the mouth of Tellico river, now 
in Blount county. This was attacked 
and taken by the savages in 1760, when 
two hundred persons, of different ages 
and both sexes, were killed. In the 
following year, however. Grant's expe- 
dition reduced the Indians, and estab- 
lished a permanent state of tranquillity 
by treaty, which encouraged the peoplin or 
of the country. In 1765, settlements 
were commenced on the Holston, which 
increased rapidly in spite of the oppo- 
sition made by the natives. 

When the revolution began, the inhab- 
itants, led by Colonel John Sevier, made 
a successful resistance to the encroach- 
ments of the savages ; and, assisted by 
a few Virginia troops, defeated them in 
the month' of June, 1776. Difficulties, 
however, continued through the war. 

Delegates from Tennessee appeared 
in the first assembly of the state of North 
Carolina, and some of her soldiers as- 
sisted in i,he defeat of the British and 
tory army at King's mountain, on the 
7th of October, 1780. So great, how- 
ever, were the obstacles in the way of 
a settlement of West Tennessee, that 
the site and vicinity of Nashville were a 
wilderness in 1779. 

North Carolina made a provisional 
cession of the territory of this state to 
the United States in 1784. This act 
was soon repealed, but the people ad- 
hered to their favorite plan ; and, as 
North Carolina persevered in her oppo- 
sition to their independence, the country 
suffered from the evils of an uncertain 
and unsettled government. The people 
adopted the name of Frankland for the 
country; but in 1790 the territory was 
ceded to the United States, and disor- 
ders ceased. It received the name of 
the territory southwest of the river Ohio. 
The first printing-press was introduced 
at Rogersville in November, 1791,. and 
on the 5th of that month the Knoxville 
Gazette appeared — the first newspaper 
in Tennessee. 

Minerals. — Tennessee abounds in 
gypsum and marble of different colors ; 
and burr-millstones are quarried in some 
parts of the Cumberland mountains. 
Iron mines are numerous, and several 
lead mines have been worked. Salt- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



469 



springs are known in many places, but 
they are not of sufficient strength to 
be very valuable. Saltpetre abounds in 
caves. 

Harpeth Ridge. — In a recent explora- 
tion in this region (which is in Davidson 
county), in company with the geological 
class of the college, new evidences were 
discovered of the correctness of what 
has been said of these forrnations — in 
the American Journal of Science, No. 2, 
new series, p. 222 — in relation to their 
relative age, position, and identity with 
the corresponding formations of Ohio 
and New York. The rocks in this vi- 
cinity correspond with the blue shaly 
limestone of Cincinnati and the sur- 
rounding region, above which, in the 
knobs and ridges in Middle Tennessee, 
we find a stratum, of a few feet in thick- 
ness, corresponding with the red en- 
crinital limestone of the Niagara group, 
New York ; succeeding which, in most 
places, are the water-lime, Onondaga 
limestone, and Marcellus shale, of the 
New York geologists, which correspond 
with the water-lime, cliff-limestone, and 
black shale, of Louisville, Kentucky. 
Immediately upon the shale was found 
a stratum composed almost entirely of 
the columns of encrinites, and occasion- 
ally a beautiful head, which, from the 
disintegration of the rock, may be found 
detached and upon the surface. In this 
formation at Louisville have been found 
eight or ten undescribed species of en- 
crinites, some of which Dr. Troost, state 
geologist of Tennessee, has figured and 
described for the memoirs of the Geo- 
logical society of France. 

Above the lastmentioned rock occurs 
a layer of dark-brown slate, a few feet 
in thickness, containing the strophomena 
setigera, and tentaculites Jissurella, prob- 
ably corresponding with the Genesee 
slate of New York. This is succeeded 
by olive shales and sandstone, corre- 
sponding with the portage group of New 
York. 

In the year 1846 a skeleton was dis- 
covered in Tennessee, which was at 
first reported to be a fossil giant. An 
examination of it, however, by scien- 
tific men, soon detected the error. We 
copy the following "remarks on the 



fossil bones recently brought to New 
Orleans from Tennessee." 

"The 'Gigantic Fossil.' — Consid- 
able interest has been recently excited 
by the announcement of the discovery 
in Tennessee of the remains of a man 
eighteen feet high. The papers teem 
with accounts of the prodigy, and pub- 
lic confidence was secured by the as- 
sertion that the distinguished physicians 
of the west had testified that they were 
human remains. About the last of De- 
cember these remains reached this city ; 
and on the first of January I was re- 
quested by a distinguished surgeon here 
to go with him, on the invitaticm of the 
proprietor, to examine them, and give 
an opinion. They had been erected in a 
high room ; the skeleton was sustained 
in its erect position by a large upright 
beam of timber. At a glance it was 
I apparent that it was nothing more than 
I the skeleton of a young mastodon {one 
of Godman's tetracaulodons, with sock- 
I ets for four tusks). The bones of the 
leg and ankle were complete, the met- 
atarsal bones wanting. The bones of 
the anterior extremities were complete to 
the metacarpal bones, which were pres- 
ent in one leg, the phalanges wanting. 
Most of the vertebrEB were present ; the 
I'ibs mostly of wood. The pelvic ar- 
rangement was entirely of wood ; the 
scapulae were present, but somewhat 
broken, and were rigged on with a most 
human-like elevation, pieces of ribs sup- 
plying the want of clavicles. The os- 
seous parts of the head were portions, 
nearly complete, of the upper and lower 
jaws. Some of the molars were quite 
complete ; of the tusks, only one little 
stump remained, but the four alveoli of 
the upper jaw had large incisive-look- 
ing wooden teeth fitted into them, and 
the lower jaw supplied to correspond. 
The cranium was entirely wanting from 
the lower margin of the orbits, back ; 
but a raw-hide cranium was fitted on, 
which was much more becoming to the 
animal in his new capacity than the old 
one would have been. 

The artificial construction was prin- 
cipally in the pelvis and head ; and, 
taking it as thus built up — in its half- 
human, half-beastlike look, with its great 



470 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



hooked, incisive teeth — it cei'tainly must 
have conveyed to the ignorant spectator 
a most horrible idea of a hideous, dia- 
bolical giant, of which he dreamed, no 
doubt, for months. To one informed in 
such matters, it really presented a most 
ludicrous figui'e. 

" The person who had it for exhi- 
bition was honest, I believe, in his con- 
victions as to its being the remains of a 
man, having been confirmed in them by 
numerous physicians, whose certificates 
he had in his possession ; and, having 
asked and received my opinion, he de- 
termined to box it up, never again to 
be exhibited as the remains of a human 
being." 

Di'. Troost endeavors to show that 
the bodies which have been found in the 
caves of Tennessee are not probably 
mummies, but merely dried cadavers, 
exhibiting no marks of embalming or art- 
ificial preparation. He doubts whether 
one of these, which he examined, was 
even of remote antiquity. The other 
question is respecting the numerous 
graves found in the western states some 
years ago, and which were said to con- 
tain the remains of an extinct pigmy 
race of human beings. Dr. Troost sup- 
poses these graves to contain the col- 
lected bones of the slain in battle. The 
Indian custom was to carry their slain 
to their own towns, and hang them up 
in mats on trees. At their general burn- 
ing festivals, the bones thus preserved 
were collected and buried, " and thence 
in my opinion," says the doctor, " those 
numerous small graves which are attrib- 
uted, but I believe erroneously, to pig- 
mies. I have opened numbers of these 
small graves, and have found them filled 
with a parcel of mouldered bones, which, 
judging from some fragments I have 
seen, belonged to common-sized men. 
In one of them I found, among these 
mouldered bones, two occipital bones ; 
of course, it was a mere mixture of 
bones belonging to more than one body. 
These bones lay without any order." 
The doctor then considers the circum- 
stances attending the ancient and exten- 
sive burying-grounds found in Tennes- 
see. He mentions one near Nashville, 
about a mile in lengfth and of unknown 



breadth, in which is found stone coffins 
so close to one another, that each corpse 
is separated from its neighbor by only 
a single stone, the side of one coffin 
forming one of the sides of the next. 
In a circle of about ten miles in diam- 
eter, there are six extensive burying- 
grounds. These graves are supposed to 
contain the remains of an extinct race. 
The extinct race is supposed to have 
been less civilized than the Indians who 
were found here at the time of Colum- 
bus. This is inferred from the trinkets 
and utensils found in the graves being 
of a very rude consti'uction, and all 
formed of some natural product — none 
of metal. Dr. Troost says that the 
examination of these trinkets, &;c., has 
created in him an opinion that the peo- 
ple to whom they belonged, and in whose 
graves they are found, came from some 
tropical country, and adduces many co- 
gent reasons for thinking so. That they 
were idolaters, and, from their idols — 
several of which are in the possession 
of Dr. Troost — acquainted with some 
of the idolatrous mysteries of the Egyp- 
tian and other eastern nations, is very 
evident. This would seem to indicate 
that the earliest inhabitants of this con- 
tinent had an eastern origin, and is cor- 
roborative of a common opinion. 

Caverns. — The caves may well be 
ranked among the natural curiosities of 
the country. One is four hundred feet 
deep, with a stream of pure water at the 
bottom ; and one cave, on one of the 
peaks of Cumberland mountains, is of 
greater extent than is yet known. Some 
of them are several miles in extent, and 
present sides and roofs of remarkable 
uniformity, with the appearance of hav- 
ing been cut by art, or worn by the 
washing of streams. One has been ex- 
plored for a distance often miles. 

Statistics. — According to the census 
of 1840, the population of the state was 
829,210; of whom there were 325,434 
white males; 315,193 white females; 
183,059 slaves; 2,796 free colored per- 
sons. According to the census of 1850, 
the population was 767,319 whites, 6,280 
free colored persons, and 249,519 slaves ; 
total 1,023,118. 

Furnaces. — An official report to the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



471 



legislature of Tennessee sets down the 
capital employed in the iron business 
at $4,100,000, and the annual products 
at the same amount. Three fourths of 
this capital is employed in Middle Ten- 
nessee. On the Cumberland river, near 
Nashville, there are " twenty-one blast- 
furnaces, eleven forges, and three splen- 
did rolling-mills, which yield annually 
about $800,000." On the Tennessee 
river " there are twelve furnaces, and 
eight forges and bloomeries, which pro- 
duce about 180,000 tons annually." 

The agricultural products of Tennes- 
see are in value $57,551,820; while 
those of Ohio are only $57,899,390, and 
of New York 57,685,400 : showing Ten- 
nessee to be the third state in the Union 
in productive wealth. 

The ordinary revenue of the state in 
1850 was $200,000, 

" The original settlers," says a late in- 
telligent letter-writer, "came of a good 
stock. A strong religious, puritan-like 
character was that of the leading men 
among them ; and although multiplied 
sects have since sprung up, there is a 
leaven of it still remaining. 

" East Tennesseans are sometimes 
called the yankees of the south. They 
have strong sense, shrewdness, and pa- 
tience in labor, like your New-Eng- 
lander. There is probably some degen- 
eracy, however, from the heroic age of 
this people. 

" The early days of Indian fighting, 
and of manifold struggles and privations, 
were the days of peculiar energy and 
fortitude — the like of which are not ex- 
hibited now in the various departments 
of peaceful life. There is an aspect of 
newness visible here and there ; there 
are indications of progress, but there 
are also signs of decay. Some things 
are waxing old and ready to vanish away 
in this state, which has lived as a state 
but fifty years. 

" Near the Holston is a hill, at the 
foot of which the first-appointed gover- 
nor of the southwestern territory landed 
and selected his residence. President 
Washington had sent him out. Peace 
established with Great Britain — the con- 
stitution formed, and states settling down 
quietly under it — had not given peace 



or protection to the vast region west of 
the mountains. Conflicts with Indians, 
collisions with Spaniards — then our pow- 
erful neighbors south and southwest — 
went on for years, with bloody forages 
and wild adventures on both sides. The 
federal governor came — a man prudent 
in policy and conduct. At that time 
the town where I am writing was com- 
menced ; it took the honored name of 
Knox, after the then secretary of wai\ 
Andrew .Jackson, then a young lawyer 
recently from North Carolina, was made 
United States district attorney. On this 
spot the state government was first set 
up, and here was its seat for many years. 
The eastern part, for some purposes, is 
really a state within itself. One day it 
made the attempt to set up for itself. 
With a little corner of Virginia, and 
another fragment of North Carolina, 
East Tennessee constituted itself the 
state of Frankland, but the effort was 
premature. It is the Switzerland of 
the south. The Cumberland mountains, 
which divide the state on a part of its 
northern boundary from Kentucky, turn 
sheer out of their straight course, and, 
sweeping across the state, terminate 
abruptly in Georgia. The Unakas, com- 
ing down f)om North Carolina on the 
east, meet them there, and both ranges 
together hem in this mountainous dis- 
trict. 

" But, with the tokens of retrogres- 
sion and decay above adverted to, what 
shall be done to secure permanence to- 
gether with true progress 1 Perhaps a 
fresh infusion of vital force is needed. 
No portion of the Union, I think, would 
better please the industrious farmer of 
New England ; and such men, as a class, 
would be acceptable to this population. 
Both would be benefited by the acces- 
sion. Elements of agricultural and man- 
ufacturing skill found among them are 
needed here ; they would do substantial 
service, and would find their reward. 

" This soil yields a fine increase with 
no great labor bestowed upon it — with- 
out scientific, not to say cai'eful culti- 
vation. In corn, no state equals Ten- 
nessee. On these hills sheep could be 
raised in great numbers, if only the 
dogs were reduced in number at the 



472 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



same time The climate is very agree- 
able — most grateful to invalids. People 
were crossing the ice at Albany and on 
Lake Champlain, when the peach-trees 
had long since bloomed with us ; gar- 
dens were beginning to look well ; in 
some places, it was already late to 
make them here, when snow was lying 
ten feet deep in Vermont the last sea- 
son. Fruits, flowers, and crops, come 
some five or six weeks earlier than in 
your vicinity, and there is abundance 
for all. Without the oppressive heat of 
more southern climes, this region has a 
bland atmosphere, and the freshness and 
vigoi'ous life of more northern countries. 
Its position, southern and elevated, gives 
it that combination. 

" These mountains have sent out no 
small part of the active men of the en- 
tire southwest. Many of their fore- 
most men were trained among these 
hills." 

Among the curiosities of Tennessee 
are the celebrated foot-prints on some 
parts of the Cumberland mountains. 
The rocks on which they have been ob- 
served are of limestone, and some of 
them have been supposed to be the 
tracks of men, others of horses and oxen, 
and all of recent date. Some observers, 
on the other hand, have regarded them 
as the tracks of bears and other wild 
beasts, and probably very ancient. 

Petrifactions of various kinds abound 
in some parts of the state. Near the 
southern line are three petrified trees, 
nearly entire. One of them is a cypress, 
another a sycamore, and the third a wal- 
nut. They were discovered in conse- 
quence of the falling of a bank on the 
south shore of the Tennessee river. 
Claws, teeth, and bones, of different large 
animals, have been found in numerous 
places. Logs, too, in various stages of 
change, have been dug up at various 
depths ; and both mineral coal and chai'- 
coal have been found at from sixty to 
one hundred feet below the surface of 
the ground. 

Cascades. — These are numerous, and 
many of them very picturesque. One 
of the most beautiful is the " Falling. 
Water," on a branch of Caney creek, 
eight miles from its mouth, and sixty 



miles from Carthage. The stream has 
a rapid course for some distance before 
it reaches the cascade, having a descent 
of one hundred and fifty feet within a 
shoi-t distance, when it makes a precip- 
itous leap of one hundred and fifty or 
two hundred feet, in a single sheet, 
eighty feet broad. 

The fall on Taylor's creek is still 
more remarkable, as the scenery is more 
wild, and the approach attended with 
much danger, while the perpendicular 
descent is greater, being, as some say, 
from two hundred to two hundred and 
fifty feet. What adds to the impressive, 
gloomy, and terrific effect of thq scene, 
is a large ovei-hanging rock, three or 
four hundred feet high, which almost ex- 
cludes the sight of the sky, and thi-ows 
its shade over the wild and foaming 
sheets of falling water, which are half 
converted into foam and spray by the 
height of the fall and strong currents of 
air, which rush and whirl through the 
deep and frightful gulf. 

Another fall, only twenty yards distant 
from this spot, toward the south, offers 
to the spectator a scene of a very differ- 
ent nature. A precipice, about three 
hundred feet high, crosses the channel of 
another and smaller stream, which, in de- 
scending it, is divided into innumerable 
little rills, each of which forms separate 
cascades, and all together, in the con- 
trast of the dark rock down which they 
pour, present a scene remarkable for its 
richness and beauty. 

Along some of the streams of Tennes- 
see, where they flow through rocks of 
limestone, wonderful effects have been 
produced by the cutting out of deep chan- 
nels between high and ragged banks. 
Some of the larger and navigable rivers 
present scenes of this description to the 
admiration of the traveller, who is borne 
with rapidity along the bases of lofty nat- 
ural walls, inaccessible to human foot, 
and sometimes apparently overhanging 
the stream, and threatening destruction 
to everything below. When contem- 
plated from above, the rivers in some 
places appear to flow through deep chan- 
nels cut by the labor and skill of man, 
so uniform is the original surface of the 
ground, and so smooth and perpendicu- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



473 



lar the rocky precipices which descend 
from the level. 

Knoxville. — This town is the prin- 
cipal one in East Tennessee, and stands 
on Holston river, four miles below the 
mouth of French Broad creek. It has 
about five thousand inhabitants, some 
of whom are engaged in manufactures. 
The situation and appearance of the 
town are pleasant ; and it is the site of 
a very respectable literary institution. 
East Tennessee university. Here is 
the head of steamboat navigation, and 
stagecoaches run three times a week for 
Washington (D. C), via Abingdon (Vir- 
ginia) and Staunton ; for Raleigh (N. 
C.) ; for Charleston (S. C.) via Warm 
Springs ; for Savannah (Georgia) via 
Atlanta; for Nashville; and for Lex- 
ington (Kentucky) via Cumberland gap. 
East Tennessee University. — The 
buildings of this institution are situated 
on the summit of a considerable emi- 
nence, half a mile west of Knoxville, 
and near the bank of the Holston. The 
I principal edifice, which occupies the 
centre, has on each side a fine building, 
three stories high, for the accommoda- 
tion of students. There are also three 
residences of the professors. 

The institution possesses a philosoph- 
ical apparatus, a chemical laboratory, a 
mineralogical cabinet, and a library of 
about four thousand volumes. Com- 
mencement is held on the first Wednes- 
day of August. 

JoNESBOROUGH is a Small town, with 
about one thousand inhabitants, and the 
site of Washington college. It is on 
the bank of a branch of Holston river, 
ton miles south of the latter, and has a 
courthouse, three churches, and two 
academies. 

Washington College was founded in 
1794, and has a president, three profes- 
sors, about one thousand volumes in its 
library, and about fifty students. 

Maysville. — This is also on the 
bank of the Holston, eighteen miles 
from Knoxville, and has a courthouse, a 
church, and about five hundred inhab- 
itants. 

The Southwest Theological Seminary, 
which is situated here, was founded in 
1821. It is under the presbyterians. 



and has in its library about six thousand 
volumes. 

Nashville. — This town, the capital 
of the state, stands at the head of steam 
navigation, on the left bank of Cumber- 
land river, one hundred and twenty miles 
from its junction with the Ohio. Near 
it are three lofty bluffs. The situation 
is fine, the climate healthful and inviting, 
and the town has been rapid in its 
growth. 

One of the most striking of the pub- 
lic buildings is the markethouse, which 
is one of the finest in the western coun- 
try. There are 13 churches, a lunatic 
asylum, the state penitentiary, three 
banks, a lyceum, and many handsome 
houses. The population in 1850 was 
eighteen thousand. The distance from 
Washington is seven hundred and four- 
teen miles southwest ; it is five hundred 
and ninety-four northeast of New Or- 
leans, two hundred and ninety-four south- 
west of Cincinnati, two hundred and 
eighty-eight south of Indianapolis, and 
nine hundred and thirty-seven southwest 
of New York. 

The Capitol is constructed of pure 
white limestone, and upon a plan of the 
most liberal magnificence, challenging 
the admiration of the Union. Chaste, 
yet grand, it will stand through all time, 
as a noble monument of the taste and 
patriotism of this age : and to the youths 
of the state who gaze upt)n its complete 
and faultless proportions, it will irresisti- 
bly convey a lesson in architectural sym- 
metry and beauty, that books may never 
teach them. 

Nashville University. — This institu- 
tion was founded in 1806, and has four 
professors, two tutors, about three hun- 
dred alumni, one hundred students, and 
ten thousand volumes in its libraries. 
The principal building is two hundred 
feet long, fifty wide, and three stories 
high. Commencement is held on the 
first Wednesday in October. 

Memphis, one of the most busy and 
flourishing towns in the state, is situated 
on the bank of the Mississippi, in front 
of an extensive and productive region, 
which is naturally tributary to it ; it has 
lately been selected as the site of the 
United States navyyard on the river. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF TENNESSEE. 



475 



Columbia, forty-two miles from Nash- 
ville, stands on Duck river, and has a 
courthouse, three churches, an academy, 
a bank, and about two thousand inhab- 
itants. There is a daily communication 
by stagecoaches with Nashville. 

Jackson College, sxtnaXedi in this town, 
was founded in ] 830, and has four pro- 
fessors, and about one hundred students, 
with one thousand two hundi'ed and fifty 
volumes in its libraries. 

Franklin. — This town, eighteen miles 
from Nashville, on the left side of Har- 
peth river, contains a courthouse, five 
academies, four churches, and about fif- 
teen hundred inhabitants. Stagecoaches 
start three times a week for Nashville. 

Clarksville is sixty-five miles from 
Nashville by the Cumberland road, on 
the right bank of which it stands, and 
contains about two thousand inhabitants. 
Thei'e are a courthouse, three churches, 
two banks, and an academy. It is a 
place of much business, an active trade 
being carried on in cotton and tobacco. 
Steamboats run to Nashville and New 
Orleans, and stagecoaches start three 
times a week for Nashville and Smith- 
land. 

MuRFREESBORo'. — This town was for- 
merly the state capital. It stands on a 
small branch of Cumberland river, and 
has a courthouse, three churches, an 
academy, and fifteen hundred inhab- 
itants. 

Kingston, on the right bank of Ten- 
nessee river, and at the mouth of Clinch 
river, has a courthouse, two churches, 
and about seven hundred inhabitants. 

Climate and Productions. — The 
seasons ai'e generally much milder than 
in Kentucky. On the higher regions 
the summer heats are moderate, and 
apples, pears, peaches, and other north- 
ern fruits, are successfully cultivated. 
In West Tennessee, cotton forms the 
staple production. Indian corn is plant- 
ed, in the middle portions of the state, 
early in April. Where stagnant waters 
abound in some of the valleys, disease 
is generated, and the alluvial regions on 
the larger streams are unhealthy. 

Among the forest-trees, juniper, red- 
cedar, and savine, prevail in the more 
elevated regions j and in the various soils 



and exposures in this extensive terri- 
tory may be f()und all the forest-trees 
known in the southern states. The lau- 
rel tribe, however, is rare. The prod- 
ucts of agriculture are very numerous 
and abundant — chiefly cotton, tobacco, 
flour, indigo, &c. 

Tennessee presents us with a very 
peculiar form, and a surface, climate, 
and variety of soils, varying on almost 
every side. Under a judicious system 
of moral and intellectual as well as phys- 
ical improvement, how general — how 
rapid — how permanent might its pros- 
perity become, in every department 
necessary and desirable ! The most in- 
telligent and truly patriotic of her citi- 
zens have long shown their high regard 
for learning, refinement, and religion, 
by the establishment and support of in- 
stitutions which have already reflected 
honor on the state, while they have 
contributed to the benefit of the people. 
That enterprise is not wanting with 
many of the inhabitants, is farther proved 
by the abundant products annually ob- 
tained by agriculture, floated down her 
rivers and launched upon the Missis- 
sippi. The appearance of the principal 
towns, also, bears witness to the good 
taste and refinement of many of the cit- 
izens, no less than do the iron-works and 
other manufactories to the industry, skill, 
and success of the mechanics. 

Much, however, remains to be done, 
as well in Tennessee as in other states, 
and especially our southwestern states, 
to counteract the unfavorable tenden- 
cies of regions in their peculiar ciixum- 
stances. The debilitating eflfects of a 
warm climate in some parts, with the lux- 
ury spontaneously introduced by wealth ; 
and, in othei'S, the obstacles in the way 
of improvement among a thin popula- 
tion scattered over a rough and wilder 
country, demand great and combined 
exertions on the part of the friends of 
education, public intelligence, pure hab- 
its, and real national advancement, to 
counteract and overcome them. That 
such men may arise, duly impressed with 
the importance of the duty before them, 
and with a spirit fitted to cope with all 
the obstacles they encounter, is the ear- 
nest desire of every friend of the state. 



476 




DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 




^fe^ 


' 


-^ 


^^^x^~" ^'^^K^i) ' 




This state is bounded north by 
Ohio, from which it is separated 
by the Ohio river; east by Vir- 
ginia, from which it is separated 
by Cumberland mountains and 
Sandy river; south by Tennes- 
see ; southwest by Mississippi, 
from which it is separated by 
Mississippi river; west by Illi- 
nois, from which it is separated 
by Ohio river ; and northwest by 
Indiana, from which it is sep- 
arated by the same river. It lies 
between the parallels of 36^ 30' 

^ — ^-^ - and 39° 6' north latitude, and 

the meridians of 5° 3' and 12° 
38' west of Washington. The superficies is about forty thousand five hundred 
square miles. 

The longest line that can be drawn in this state is from the southwest corner 
to the place where Sandy river crosses Cumberland mountains, and is four hun- 
dred and thirty-one miles in length. The greatest breadth is from the northwest 
corner along latitude seven degrees forty-five minutes, and is one hundred and 
seventy-one and a half miles. 

This state forms but a part of the great declivity of Cumberland mountains, 
sloping northwest toward Ohio river. A minor slope, however, toward Tennes- 
see river, first turns Green, Cumberland, Salt, Kentucky, and Licking rivers, west 
or southwest ; but those waters afterward obey the grand slope, and, running 
northward, pour into the Ohio. The tillable surface in different parts of the state 
has a great diversity of elevation, from three hundred and fifty to twelve hundred 
feet above the gulf of Mexico. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



477 



There is, therefore, a considerable 
diversity of temperature and produc- 
tions ; and these are farther increased 
by certain peculiarities of the surface. 

The channels of the rivers are gen- 
erally cut remarkably deep into the 
earth, and have formed, in some places, 
broad valleys, partly shut out from the 
full influence of the sun. One third 
part of the descent, beginning with the 
first part of the descent from the foot of 
the Cumberland mountains, is very hilly 
and broken for about one hundred miles, 
comprising one third part of the state, 
from the Tennessee line to the Ohio. 
Beyond this another section extends 
north, about ninety miles in width and 
two in length, which may be called the 
hilly part of the state. It contains about 
eighteen thousand squai'e miles, and is 
in the form of a rhomb. The middle 
part of it, however, is much less uneven 
than the two extremes. But all parts 
of it are alike in two important respects : 
they belong to one extent of uneven ta- 
ble-land, with a similar substratum of 
limestone, and with a soil generally good, 
but a frequent scarcity of good water. 

The southwestern section, which is 
the smallest of the three divisions, is 
almost level. 

" The Barrens" is a tract of consid- 
erable extent in the southern and moun- 
tainous section, with isolated rounded 
elevations, bearing stunted oak, chest- 
nut, and elm-timber. The soil, how- 
ever, even there, is much better than 
appearances indicate. The more level 
and unchannelled poi'tions of the cen- 
tral section were covered by nature with 
full-grown forest-trees, and abundance 
of the reed-cane, the limestone soil being 
there remarkable for its strength and 
fertility. 

History. — The first settlement of 
this state by white men was effected by 
men of great hardihood, and attended 
with severe privations and extreme dan- 
gers. A map of the middle British col- 
onies was published in 1755, by Lewis 
Evans ; and in 1775, J. Almon, of Lon- 
don, published an edition of it with a 
statistical account of the country. At 
that time, as appears from these, settle- 
ments had been extended as far as the 



heads of the great Kenhawa, Roanoke, 
Clinch, and Holston rivers ; but that 
part, including Kentucky, was left en- 
tirely blank, as a region of terra incog- 
nita. 

In 1767, John Finley visited it from 
North Carolina, and he was followed by 
Daniel Boone and several other men in 
1769. Boone remained there until 1771, 
and returned in 1775 with a small band 
of resolute settlers. 

Kejituckij River, as well as the state, 
derives its name from the language of 
the Indians, who called it Cutawa. It 
is formed by numerous branches, which 
have their sources in the west slope 
of Cumberland mountains, interlocking 
with the head-streams of Sandy, Pow- 
ell's, and Cumberland rivers. The up- 
per streams of the Kentucky flow north- 
west from the counties of Pike and 
Perry, and uniting in Estill county, then 
turn west from the boundary between 
the counties of Clarke and Madison. 
The stream, next turning southwest, 
runs between Madison and Lafayette 
counties, and Jessamine and Garrard, 
when it receives Dick's river from the 
southeast. Finally, turning north-north- 
west, it keeps that course until it falls 
into the Ohio at Port William. Its gen- 
eral course is nearly northwest. 

The valley of the Kentucky lies be- 
tween latitude 37° and 38° 40', and lon- 
gitude 5° 40' and 8° 10'; it measures 
one hundred and seventy-five miles in 
length, and has a medium breadth of 
forty miles, with an area of seven thou- 
sand square miles, being about one sixth 
part of the whole state. It contains the 
following counties, in whole or in part : 
Anderson, Clark, Clay, Estill, Franklin, 
Gallatin, Garrard, Henry, Jessamine, 
Lafayette, Lincoln, Madison, Mercer, 
Montgomery, Owen, Perry, Pike, Scott, 
Woodford. 

This gi-eat stream flows in a channel 
remarkable for its depth, it being a great 
chasm, cut far down below the level of 
the country which it waters. Steam- 
boats navigate it from Estill county 
downward, though the cuiTent is rapid, 
and has a considerable descent, although 
not broken by falls. 

Cumberland River rises in this state. 



478 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



but, after a course of one hundred and 
twenty miles, leaves it, and crosses the 
boundary of Tennessee, on its way to 
the Mississippi. 

Government. — The legislative power 
is vested in a senate and house of repre- 
sentatives, which together are styled the 
general assembly. 

The senators are thirty-eight in num- 
ber, chosen, one half of them biennially, 
by the people from single districts for a 
term of four years. Representatives, one 
hundred in number, are chosen by the 
people, for a term of two years. 

A governor and lieutenant-governor 
are elected by the people for a term of 
four years. The governor is ineligible 
for the four years succeeding the expi- 
ration of his term. The lieutenant- 
governor is president of the senate, and 
on him the duties of governor devolve 
in case the office of the latter becomes 
vacant. 

The governor may return a bill passed 
by the legislature, but a majority of the 
members elected to each house may 
pass the bill afterward, and it then be- 
comes a law notwithstanding his objec- 
tions. 

The state officers, viz., the treasurer, 
auditor of public accounts, register of 
the land-office, and attorney-general, are 
elected by the people, for a term of four 
years. 

The judicial power is vested in a court 
of appeals, circuit courts, and county 
courts ; the judges of each election by 
the people. 

The general election takes place on 
the first Monday of August biennially, 
and the legislature meets on the first of 
November biennially, at Frankfort. 

Every white male citizen 21 years 
o£ age, or over, resident in the state two 
years, or in the county where he offers 
to vote, one year next preceding the 
election, may vote at such election. 
Elections by the people are viva voce, 
and not by ballot. 

Productions. — Grain is the staple 
production, but hemp and flax are pro- 
duced of excellent quality. Flour, spir- 
its, salted meat, and five stock, are sent 
to New Orleans every year, by the 
Mississippi, in great quantities. 



PoPUL.\TiON. — According to the cen- 
ses of 1850, the population consisted of 
770,061 whites, 9,667 free colored jier- 
sons, and 221,768 slaves; total 1,001,- 
496. 

The Mammoth Cave. — The follow- 
ing brief description we copy from a 
letter in the New York Recorder. This 
wonderful cavern is the largest in the 
world : — 

" During the summer of 1845 I was 
called into the vicinity of the Mammoth 
cave, and I determined to devote a few 
hours to a visit to this renowned cu- 
riosity. 

" Leaving the main road at Mumfords- 
ville, we are conducted to the right by 
a path lately opened for the accommo- 
dation of visiters. As we approach the 
cave, the country assumes a wild and 
picturesque appearance, rising abruptly 
in precipices, covered with verdure and 
wild flowers, or stretching away into the 
distance its fruitful valleys, diversified 
with the neat farmhouse of the planter 
reposing among flowers, and the cabins 
of the poor peeping humbly forth from 
the luxuriant fields of corn. Sometimes 
the road leads up the steep mountain's 
side ; then, winding around its summit, 
suddenly conducts us again to the vale 
below. After a succession of these ups 
and downs, the traveller ' ascends the 
mountain in which the cave is situated. 
The first object of interest to the visit- 
er is the entrance to this underground 
world ; but for this he looks in vain. 
He sees only a large white building, sur- 
rounded by a variety of outhouses, oc- 
cupying the centre of a clearing of small 
extent. 

" Having procured a guide at the ho- 
tel (without whom no one is permitted 
to enter the cave), I was conducted down 
a steep declivity to the right of the 
house, until we entered a deep gully, 
through which courses a small stream 
of water, among broken fragments of 
I'ocks, scattered about in wild confusion. 
Following this ravine for a number of 
rods, we turn suddenly to the right, and 
the mouth of the cave is before you. 
But little effort seems to have been made 
to change its natural appearance, and 
that little has greatly marred its beauty 



480 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



and interest. The sublime in nature, 
like great men and noble deeds, should 
be left to appear in its own native orna- 
ments. The descent is somewhat abrupt 
and unpromising — a confused mass of 
unsightly rocks is all that meets the eye. 
We advance until the appearance is like 
the gray mists of the early dawn, when 
the lamps are lighted, and preparations 
made for the subsequent exploration. 
Soon after the descent, the passage is 
through a door built of rough stones, 
through which rushes a strong current 
of air, that at first produces an unpleas- 
ant chilliness ; this, however, gradually 
wears off, as we advance into the more 
extended galleries of the cave. The 
bottom over which we pass was once, 
tsvidently, the bed of a river. It is now 
deeply marked by the feet of oxen, and 
ihe wheels of carts, once employed here 
in the manufacture of saltpetre. The 
avenue gradually increases, until the 
eye, unaccustomed to the surrounding 
gloom, tries in vain to trace the outline 
of the lofty ceiling. The first object of 
more than ordinary interest is the ' Gi- 
ant's Coffin' — a large rock, sixty feet in 
length, that, from the point where the 
beholder stands, presents the perfect 
outline of a coffin. Next we pass the 
dilapidated saltpetre works, which great- 
ly detract from this sublime work of na- 
ture. Progressing onward three quar- 
ters of a mile, we enter the 'Church,' 
a vast dome where a pulpit and seats 
have been erected; and as invalid cler- 
gymen often come here to seek a res- 
toration of health, the opportunity is 
impi'oved, and religious services are 
conducted in this subterranean chapel. 
I ascended the rude pulpit while the 
guide was igniling a quantity of salt- 
petre ; and as it threw its livid glare 
over the place, revealing the dark open- 
ings of the various avenues branching 
out on every side — the vaulted dome 
sparkling with crystals of various forms 
and hues — the effect was almost over- 
powering. I have stood on the verge 
of Niagara, and beheld its whirl of 
waters, and listened to the wild, deep 
music of its voice — I have seen the ocean, 
in its fury, beating the sounding sliore ; 
the storm of fire, as, with the wings of 



the wind, it swept over the wild prairies 
of the west ; and the father of waters 
when he spurned the narrow bounds of 
his native channel : but never did I com- 
prehend the nature of true sublimity un- 
til this moment. It was not the fire, the 
earthquake, nor the wind ; but it was 
the still small voice of God, speakino- in 
this temple made with his own hands, 
as he spoke to Elijah. It was one of 
those moments, few and far between, 
when the soul appears to catch one 
glimpse of its future and tranquillized 
existence. 

" Having mentioned the name of Mar- 
shall, the guide informed me that he was 
employed then as now when Marshall 
came to the cave. At my request he con- 
ducted me to the spot where the shanty 
was erected for his accommodation. It 
is situated a little more than a mile from 
the entrance. Here the poor invalid, 
with his devoted wife, took up his abode, 
with a hope that the peculiar atmosphere 
of the place would restore him to health. 
Vain hope ! His Master said : ' Come 
up higher' — and he passed from the 
darkness of this living tomb, to the glo- 
ries of the upper paradise. Here the 
affectionate wife watched by the couch 
of her afflicted husband, leaving him only 
once a day (as the guide informed me), 
and then only for a short time, to enjoy 
the light and sunshine of the outer world 
above. Portions of this little cabin still 
remain. I lingered around the spot 
with a melancholy pleasure. 

** We will pass hastily through ' Pur- 
gatory;* take a peep into 'Limbo;' 
tarry a few moments in the ' Hall of 
Independence;' cross the 'Dead Sea;' 
make a speech in the * Whispering Gal- 
lery' — all of which have their peculiar 
and indescribable beauties — and we are 
come to the river ' Styx,' beyond which, 
as I was informed, are situated the more 
interesting portions of this immense 
grotto. But as I could not devote the 
time necessary for further examination, I 
declined employing the modern Charon 
who here plies the oar — who, I must 
say, demands an exorbitant price for his 
services. 

" To appreciate fully the beauty and 
sublimity of this wonder of nature, the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



481 



visiter must devote several days to the 
work of exploration. 

" The body of Marshall lies near the 
hotel, in its unassuminjr grave, unnoticed 
by the pleasure-seeking throng, who 
here congregate to squander away their 
precious time in idleness and dissipa- 
tion." 

Indian Curiositir.s. — We have al- 
ways — says a western paper — regarded 
any event or circumstance, calculated to 
throw light upon the iiistory of the ab- 
origines of this country, as peculiarly in- 
teresting and worthy of record. As a 
nation, we are fast losing sight of the old 
original landmarks which distinguished 
the two different races who inhabited and 
occupied this beautiful country ; and as 
one of those races is as rapidly disap- 
pearing as the other is increasing in 
numbers and power, it becomes a sacred 
duty with us to preserve as much as we 
can, for future generatiofis, of their sin- 
gular character — a character distinctive 
in itself from all other races of the 
earth — and whatever evidences may, 
from time to time, be discovered as we 
progress in civilization. Some discov- 
eries have recently been made in Ken- 
tucky, and were reported in the Louis- 
ville Journal. 

" Last fall, when it was first resolved 
to remove the mound, it had not been 
dug into more than nine or ten feet be- 
fore several fine specimens of isinglass 
were discovered. This excited much 
curiosity, and strict attention was paid 
to all subsequent removals. The cold 
weather, however, setting in, stopped 
the project until the opening of spring, 
when the work was again commenced, 
and has been going on ever since. Sev- 
eral skeletons have been dug up at dif- 
ferent times in a good state of preserva- 
tion ; the teeth, particularly, had the 
enamel on them apparently as perfect 
as ever. They were buried without 
any uniformity, some with their heads 
toward the south, and some sitting up. 
There were thought to be considerable 
discoveries ; and indeed they are, for they 
prove incontestably that the mound is 
of artificial origin ; but, in speaking of 
them, the half is not told. 

" Some six weeks ago, near the cen- 



tre of the mound, on the original sur- 
face, the appearance of two skeletons 
was* discovered. The dirt was then 
carefully taken away from one, and there 
was found about its neck a great num- 
ber of small sea or lake-shells about the 
size of periwinkles, and the small end 
ground off so as to string, them for the 
neck. The most superficial examination 
of them will convince any intelligent man 
that they have had their origin in the 
sea or lakes. After the removal of this 
one, the other was carefully exhumed, 
and a like quantity of beads was found 
upon its neck and breast, but of an en- 
tirely different kind. They are round, 
with a hole through them, and are made 
of a solid ivory-like bone, with a very 
fine polish. There has been great in- 
genuity, too, in their make : they begin 
with a very large hole in the middle of 
the strand, which has one edge much 
narrower than the opposite one, the rest 
being strung on at each end of the strand, 
and made pretty much of the same fash- 
ion, but, gradually diminishing in size, 
formed a round ring precisely fitted to 
the neck. The number found shows 
that the same neck wore several strands. 
But upon the breast of the same skeleton 
was found a breastplate of copper, hav- 
ing a beautiful piece apparently of mar- 
ble, worked to fit upon it very neatly and 
mechanically. It is an oblong square, 
scolloped on the sides and ends, and 
rounded on the corners, weighing seven 
ounces and a half precisely. It is six 
inches and a half long, and four inches 
and three eighths in width at each end. 
There are two holes in the middle of it 
about an inch and a half apart. The 
piece of stone weighs seven ounces and 
a quarter. It is five inches and a half 
in length, and one and an eighth in 
width at each end, and two in the mid- 
dle. It has two holes through it cor- 
responding to those upon the breast- 
plate, and fits down upon it with a flat 
side, the upper part being oval. The 
holes are an eighth in diameter on the 
flat side, but, coming through to the 
upper oval surface, a pin-head would 
fill either of them ; they are drilled so 
smooth and neatly, it would beggar hu- 
man ingenuity to excel them at the 



31 



482 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF KENTUCKY. 



present time. Immediately under the 
back of the skeleton a whetstone was 
found, three and a half inches long, and 
two and a half broad. It is an excel- 
lent piece of sandstone, and has the ap- 
pearance of having been greatly used." 

Lexington. — This is the most popu- 
lous town in the state, and one of the 
most beautiful in appearance and situ- 
ation, as well as most distinguished for 
its flourishing condition, and intelligent 
and refined society. It stands near the 
sources of Town creek, which is one 
of the branches of Elkhorn river, twen- 
ty-four miles southeast by east from 
Frankfort, eighty south of Cincinnati, 
and five hundred and seventeen a little 
south of west from Washington, in lat- 
itude 38^ 3', longitude 7° 28' west. 

This place, notwithstanding its sub- 
stantial appearance, was hardly a village 
in 1785, and in 1795 contained only 
about fifty dwellings and three hundred 
and fifty inhabitants. The population 
in 1820, was 5,279; in 1830, 6,404 ; in 
1840, 6,997; and in 1S50, about 9,500. 
It is the oldest town in the state and 
was once its capital. 

It is a place of considerable manufac- 
tures, especially in cotton, woollen, linen, 
copper, tin, and ironware ; and grist- 
mills, papermills, tanneries, ropewalks, 
&c., are numerous. 

Transylvania University, situated at 
Lexington, was founded before the sep- 
aration of Kentucky from Virginia, re- 
organized in 1798, and brought under 
the present system in 1818. In 1820 it 
contained one hundred and forty-three 
academical, two hundred medical, and 
nineteen law students. The college 
buildings were partly destroyed by fire 
some years since, but they are now much 
enlarged. 

The Canal. — A short but noble canal 
surmounts, by a cut-off, the I'apids of 
the Ohio, two miles from Louisville. 
The locks and bridges of this work are 
on a grand and massive scale. The 
noble three-arched bridge, under which 
a large two-decked steamer can pass, 
is the first attraction. From this point 
Louisville and its environs present a 
charming panorama. The country is 
slightly rolling, and richly diversified by 



forest, field, and habitation. The canal 
cuts through it in a straight line, with its 
gliding show of steamboats, apparent- 
ly self-impelled through the meadows. 
The Ohio, with its sparkling rapids and 
distant waving outline, and the city, im- 
bowered in tiees, fill up the picture. 
Out of the scores of fine buildings, some 
imposing public edifices and three or 
four stately churches rise and detach 
themselves ; presenting, altogether, a 
scene truly beautiful and inviting. 

Louisville. — This city stands on the 
south bank of the Ohio, just above the 
rapids, and below the mouth of Bear- 
grass creek, in latitude 38^ 18' north, 
and 5° 42' west longitude from Wash- 
ington. It is the most important com- 
mercial town in the state. The naviga- 
tion of the Ohio, interrupted by nature, 
except only during high water, about 
ten months in the year, has been im- 
proved by a canal constructed round the 
falls. 

The distance from Frankfort is fifty- 
two miles, a little east of north ; one 
hundred and twelve from Cincinnati ; 
six hundred and thirty-two from Pitts- 
burg ; and one thousand four hundred 
and eleven from New Orleans. The 
ground is seventy-five feet above low- 
water mark, and the streets cross at 
right angles, giving a favorable appear- 
ance to the city from without, and a fine 
display to the public buildings. The 
principal of these are the cityhall, the 
courthouse, marine-hospital, medical in- 
stitute, city-hospital, two savings-banks, 
four insurance-offices, two orphan asy- 
lums, four markets, a school for the 
blind, eighteen public schools, thirty se- 
lect schools, a Magdalen asylum, three 
banks, and twenty-six churches. The 
city is lighted with gas, and expensive 
works are in construction to supply it 
with good water. This being the prin- 
cipal place of business in the state, and, 
to a great extent, of the neighboring 
country, a very extensive trade centres 
here ; and where an unknown number 
of flatbottomed and keel-boats are con- 
stantly employed in the transportation of 
goods, about three hundred steamboats 
are also in constant activity, running in 
different directions, to and from the city. 



The growth of Louisville has been 
very rapid. In 1800 the inhabitants 
amounted to only 1,357; in 1830 they 
were 10,196, and in 1850 about 44,000. 
Many kinds of manufactures are carried 
on here. The canal, leading round the 
falls, is one of the earliest and most im- 
portant works of improvement under- 
taken in this part of the country. The 
charier was granted in 1825, and the 
canal was opened for use in 1829. The 
stock was $'600,000, of which congress 
took $100,000. The canal is nearly 
three miles in length, and in that dis- 
tance overcomes a descent of twenty- 
two and a half feet, by five locks. 

The Medical Instifufe at Louisville is 
a very important institution, founded in 
1837, with six professors, and about two 
hundred and fifty students. The lec- 
tures commence on the first Monday in 
November. 

The Kentucky Historical society has 
a considerable library with numerous 
manuscripts. The Merchants' library 
contains 8,500 volumes. The Agricul- 
tural and Horticultural society has been 
founded within a few years. 

Communication is daily had by steam- 
boats with Cincinnati, Maysville, Gruy- 
andotte (Virginia), Wheelinor, and Pitts- 
burg, up the Ohio; and with St. Louis, 
New Orleans, and the intermediate places 
below. Stagecoaches go daily for Mays- 
ville via Frankfort and Lexington, for 
Cincinnati, for St. Louis through New 
Albany (Indiana), for Vincennes, for 
Nashville, &:c. 

Frankfort, the capital of the state, 
is twenty-two miles west-northwest from 
Lexington, fifty-one east from Louisville, 
one hundred and two south-southwest 
from Cincinnati. It stands on th-e right 
bank of Kentucky river, sixty miles from 
the Ohio, on a level, elevated piece of 
ground, nearly two hundred feet above 
the neighboring surface. The river is 
subject to great and sudden floods ; be- 
ing comprised in a narrow channel, it 
sometimes swells in a short time to a 
height of sixty feet above its ordinary 
level. The river divides the town into 
two parts, one called Frankfort, and the 
other South Frankfort. 

The Statehouse has a fine portico, in 



the Ionic style, and makes a conspicu- 
ous appearance. It is built entirely of 
marble, and contains halls for the cham- 
bers of the legislature, the court of ap- 
peals, and the federal court. The stair- 
case has a fine effect, being placed under 
the dome. 

A chain-bridge crosses the river near 
the middle of the town, where the banks 
are four or five hundred feet high. 

Among the public buildings are the 
courthouse, state-penitentiary, market- 
house, bank, academy, theatre, and five 
churches. There are several manufac- 
tories of different kinds, and the popu- 
lation amounts to about two thousand. 

The Stateprison. — The following ex- 
tracts from a late report of the oflRcers 
will afford the reader correct ideas of 
the condition and prospects of this im- 
portant institution : — 

" We have availed ourselves of every 
possible means in our power to carry 
out the wishes of the legislature, and of 
every true philanthropist, in regard to 
the moral and religious instruction of 
this unfortunate portion of our race ; 
and we most heartily acknowledge that 
it is a source of much gratification to 
us, to see the manifest disposition on 
the part of nearly all the prisoners to 
conform to law and good morals, sub- 
mitting to the laws of the prison with 
that character of submissiveness which 
ought to be gratifying to every true lover 
of man. 

" We look forward with pleasure to 
a day early in next season, when we 
will be prepai'ed with a suitable school- 
room and chapel, where we can carry 
on the work of moral and religious in- 
struction more perfectly, and where 
those ministers of the different denomi- 
nations who have labored with us can 
be rendered more comfortable than we 
have been able to make them heieto- 
fore, while they further aid us in the 
most pleasant part of our duties ; and 
although a fair proportion of our best 
energies have been constantly engaged 
in endeavoring to promote the moral 
and religious interests of the prisoners, 
yet, for want of suitable buildings and 
other means, we have not been able to 
do what we would wish ; but sufficient 



DESCRIPTION OF THE 8TATK OF KENTUCKY. 



485 



provision having been made, we most 
confidently promise to present to your 
honorable body, at the meeting of your 
next session, their condition in a much 
more favorable light. Ministers of the 
different denominations of our town and 
its vicinity, generally, have contributed 
to aid us in advising the pz'isoner for 
his good, to whom we feel thankful. 

" The disbursements for the year past 
were as follows : for hemp, iron, lum- 
ber, leather, &c., S29,375 02; victualing 
prisoners, 5,719 57 ; clothes and bed- 
ding for prisoners, 1,281 63 ; wood and 
coal for engine, blacksmith shop, &c., 
2,473 74; wagons, hauling hemp, stone, 
lumber, wood, &c., 1,800 56; pay of of- 
ficers, physicians, and guards, 4,387 35 ; 
cash paid to prisoners ($5 each), as di- 
rected by law, 285 00 ; tools and imple- 
ments of trade for workshops, 966 41 ; 
brick and lumber for new buildings, 388 
24; cash paid town of Frankfort, water 
privilege for use of engine, and repairs 
of pipe, 68 70 ; travelling expenses to 
various points, including trip east, on 
business of the institution, 227 55; cash 
paid ferriage and turnpike for wagons, 
hauling stone, hemp, &c., 176 02; medi- 
cines and medical instruments for use 
of prison-hospital, 60 69 ; rewards and 
expenses incident to arrest and return 
of escaped convicts, 83 45 ; lot pur- 
chased for extension of prison-wall, as 
authorized by act of assembly, 2,400 ; 
cash paid stonemasons engaged in the 
erection of prison-wall, 836 63 ; moral 
and religious instruction, 237 38 ; sta- 
tionery for use of office, 52 20 ; print- 
ing office-blanks, advertisements, &c., 44 
37 ; postage, lettei's sent and received 
on business of institution, 9 05 ; tobac- 
co for use of prisoners, as directed by 
law, 166 25; two yoke of oxen pur- 
chased for use of prison, 75 00 : total, 
$51,114 81. 

" The receipts were as follows : By 
Craig and Henry, advanced for institu- 
tion, $2,311 20; cash received for the 
sale of bagging and baled hemp, and for 
the manufacture of bagging, 30,299 11 ; 
cash received for the sale of articles at 
prison, 6,287 47 ; cash loaned by the 
state, per act approved Fel)ruary 23, 
1846, 6,000 ; cash received for lock-up 



j fees, for safe-keeping of slaves, 195 00 ; 
! by barter (manufactured articles given in 

1 exchange), 6,022 03: total, $51,114 81. 

{ " The number of prisoners in confine- 
ment on the first day of December, 1845, 
was 176; received into the prison fiom 
1st December, 1845, to 1st December 
1846, 71: total, 247. 

" The number discharged during the 
same time were : by expiration of sen- 
tence, 32; by pardon of Governor Ows- 
ley, 22 ; restoration to rights of citizen- 
ship by pardon of the governor, one day 
previous to expiration of sentence, 3 ; 
by death, 2 ; escaping, 1 : total, 60. 

" Leaving in confirhement, on Ist De- 
cember, 1846, 187. Of this number, 
there were 166 white male, and 21 col- 
ored males. 

" The crimes for which they were con- 
victed were as follows : for manslaugh- 
ter, 13 ; burglary, 9 ; larceny, 72 ; horse- 
stealing, 32 ; intent to kill 4; assisting 
slaves to run away, 8; felony, 12; pas- 
sing counterfeit money, 13 ; forgery, 3 ; 
highway robbery, 4 ; arson, 3 ; counter- 
feiting, 3 ; perjury, 3 ; bigamy, 2 ; rape, 

2 ; mailrobbery, 1 ; poisoning, 1 ; slave- 
stealing, 1 ; mayhem, 1. 

" The terms of their sentences were : 
for 40 years, 3; 22 years, 1; 15 years, 

1 ; 12 years, 1 ; 10 years, 15; 9 years, 

2 ; 8 years, 7 ; 7 years, 10 ; 6| years, 1 ; 
6 years, 10; 5^ years, 1 ; 5 years, 11 ; 
^ years, 2 ; 4 years, 38 ; 3^ years, 1 \ 

3 years 4 months, 1 ; 3 years, 33 ; 2^ 
years, 2 ; 2 years, 25 ; 1 year 10 months, 
1 ; 1 year 6 months, 1 ; 1 year 1 day, 
1 ; 1 year, 19. 

" Ediccation. — Superior, or those who 
have a classical or scientific education, 
3 ; good, or those who have received a 
general English education, 20; common, 
or those who can read, write, and cipher, 

49 ; poor, or those who can only spell 
and read, 53 ; none, or those who are 
entirely destitute of education, 62. 

" Ages. — From 15 to 20 years, 20 ; 20 I 
to 30, 87 ; 30 to 40, 44 ; 40 to 50, 19 ; • 

50 to 60, 14 ; 60 to 70, 2 ; 70 to 80, 1. | 
" Previous Hahits. — Habitually in- j 

temperate, 62 ; occasionally intemper- 
ate, 95 ; temperate, 30. ' | 

" Married, 75 ; single, 96 ; widowers, 
11 ; separated, 5. Total, 187. 



486 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF OHIO. 




This state is bounded north by 
Lake Erie, northeast, by Pennsylva- 
nia, east and southeast by Ohio riv- 
er, which separates it from Virginia, 
south and southwest by the same 
stream, which there separates it from 
Kentucky, westbylndiana and north- 
west by Michigan. The noble river 
from which the state has derived its 
name, extends along its boundary 
for 440 miles, viz., from the mouth 
of the Beaver to that of the Great 
Miami, and its coast on the lake is 
150. The entire outline is 933 miles, 
md area nearly 44,000 square miles, or above 26,000,000 of statute acres. 

This state lies between 37'^ 25' and 41° 58' north latitude, and between 3^ 30' 
and 7^ 48' west longitude from Washington. A line drawn nearly straight from 
the west boundary of Pennsylvania, at a point between the sources of the Ashta- 
bula and the Shenango branch of Big Beaver, southwest by west, would cross the 
summit level of the Ohio canal and the ridge dividing the waters flowing into 
Lake Erie from those flowing north into the Ohio. The northern division of the 
state thus made, is an inclined plane, widening from twenty-five miles, in the 
northeast, to eighty miles in the northwest, and contains about one fourth of the 
whole area. The southern declivity is much more gentle; while the north has a 
descent of 405 feet, that of the south is only 509 in a mean breadth of 247 miles, 
being only two feet per mile instead of thirteen. 

The southern division might rather be regarded as originally a plain, as high 
grounds near the Ohio river which appear like a range of hills when viewed from the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



487 



south, are only the declivity of the broad j 
table-land there broken down. The j 
south slope before spoken of, properly 
belongs only to the valleys of the 
streams flowing in that direction into 
the Ohio. These sti-eams are generally 
fi'ee from falls, except the Muskingum 
and a few others ; but those which flow 
into Lake Erie, passing down a ridge 
about eight hundred feet high, are too 
much broken for navigation. Some of 
them make that descent within five 
miles. This ridge is visible to a person 
sailing up the coast, and is seen gradu- 
ally receding inland until it disappears 
in the distance near Sandusky. 

The course of the Ohio forms nearly 
a perfect semicircle along the outline of 
the state. If one point of the dividers 
be placed on the map at Worthington, 
nine miles north of Columbus, and the 
other at the mouth of Big Sandy river, 
it will sweep round on or very near 
the course of the great river. Like its 
tributaries, it flows through a deep chan- 
nel, cut down below the original plain. 
The breadth of this valley varies, above 
Louisville, from one to two miles, and 
its temperature is so much warmer than 
that of the neighboring high land, that 
vegetation is about six weeks earlier in 
the spring ; but the cold is greater in 
winter. 

On account of its rapid increase in 
population, and the general extension 
of the improvements of civilization, as 
well as the intelligence, industry, and 
thrift, of its inhabitants, the state of 
Ohio Is inferior to no other country of 
equal extent. Indeed, it may be safely 
asserted, that none has been equally 
distinguished in all the points we have 
enumerated. 

In consequence of a singular and pe- 
culiarly favorable concurrence of events 
and circumstances, the energy of our 
nation here found an opportunity to dis- 
play itself, while in its early youth ; and 
the results show something of the ten- 
dencies and power of the principles and 
habits implanted by our ancestors, when 
left at liberty to develop themselves. 

The surface, soil, and climate of Ohio 
are all highly favorable to agriculture ; 
and her situation, with the natural facili- 



ties offered to navigation, afford oppor- 
tunities to many parts of it to communi- 
cate with markets. 

The soil of Ohio is in general very 
fertile ; and the productions are afforded 
in immense quantities. These ai'e wheat, 
rye, oats, Indian corn, live stock, and 
salted meat. Indian corn ripens in all 
paits, and apples and peaches flourish 
well, as do nectarines, cherries, plums, 
grapes, and berries of all kinds. Flint 
says Ohio " is the appropriate empire 
of Pomona." 

The principal tributaries of the Ohio 
flowing in this slate are Muskingum, 
Hockhocking, Scioto, and Great and 
Little Miami. Their head streams in- 
terlock with those running into Lake 
Erie : the Ashtabula, Grand, Cuyahoga, 
Huron, Sandusky, and Maumee. Nu- 
merous smaller streams are omitted in 
this enumeration. 

The Ohio canal extends from Cleve- 
land, on Lake Erie, up the valley of the 
Cuyahoga south, about thirty miles, ci'os- 
ses Portage summit to the Muskingum 
or Tuscarawas river, whose valley it 
follows to Dresden, within fourteen 
miles of Zanesville, and then, in a south- 
western direction, crosses the ridge to 
the Scioto, twelve miles south of Colum- 
bus, then south down the valley to Cir- 
cleville, Chillicothe, Piketon, and Ports- 
mouth, where it enters the Ohio, being 
three hundred and six miles long. 

The Miami canal extends from Cin- 
cinnati north through the Great Miami 
valley, through Hamilton, Middletown, 
Franklin, and Miamisburg, to Dayton, 
a distance of sixty-seven miles. 

The population, in 1800, was 45,365; 
in 1810, 230,760; in 1820. 581,434; 
in 1830, 935, 884; in 1840, 1,519,467; 
and in 1850, 1,977,031. 

The original constitution of Ohio was 
formed at Chillicothe, in 1802, and con- 
tinued in operation until 1851, when a 
new constitution was fiamed at Colum- 
bus, by a convention, March 10th, and 
adopted by the people, June 17th, 1851. 

By this constitution, the senaters and 
representatives are elected biennially, 
and meet at Columbus on the first Mon- 
day of January follf)wing. 

The senate consists of thirty-five mem- 



488 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



bers chosen by single districts, except 
the first, the county of Hamilton, which 
is entitled to three senators. The whole 
numbers of representatives is one hun- 
dred, who are apportioned among the 
several counties by a plan laid down in 
the constitution, on the basis of popula- 
tion, according to the federal census, or 
such other mode as the general assembly 
may direct, once in every ten years, 
which is to continue for the ten years 
next succeeding such apportionment. 

The executive department consists of 
a governor, lieutenant-governor (who is 
president of the senate), secretary of 
state, auditor, treasurer, and an attorney- 
general, who are chosen by the people 
at the biennial election, on the second 
Tuesday in October. These officers 
hold their offices for two years, except 
the auditor whose term is four years. 
The respective terms commence on the 
second Monday in January. The boai'd 
of public works, consisting of three mem- 
bers, is elected by the people, one an- 
nually for the term of three years. 

The judicial power is vested in a su- 
preme court, in district courts, courts of 
common pleas, courts of probate, justices 
of the peace, and in such other courts, 
inferior to the supreme court, as the 
general assembly may establish ; the five 
aupreme court judges hold their office 
five years, the term of one of the judges 
expiring annually. There are nine 
judges of the common pleas, elected by 
districts for five years. A judge of pro- 
bate court is elected in each county for 
three years ; a competent number of 
justices of the peace in each township 
are elected for the same term. All these 
elections are by the people. 

The elective franchise is enjoyed by 
every white male citizen of the United 
States, of the age of twenty-one years, 
who shall have been a resident of the 
state one year next preceding the elec- 
tion, and of the county, township, or 
ward, in which he resides, such time as 
may be provided by law. All elections 
are by ballot. No person in the military, 
marine, or naval service of the United 
States, shall by being stationed within 
the state, be considered a resident. 

No new debts may be contracted by 



the state, exceeding in the aggregate 
$750,000. The credit of the state shall 
neither be given nor loaned to any in- 
dividual association or corporation what- 
ever, nor shall the state hereafter, become 
a joint owner or stockholder in any com- 
pany or association. The general as- 
sembly shall never authorize any county, 
city, town, or township, by vote of its 
citizens, or otherwise, to become a stock- 
holder in any joint-stock company, cor- 
poration, or association whatever : or to 
raise money for, or loan its credit to, or 
in aid of, any such company, corporation, 
or aseociition. The state shall never 
contract any debt for purposes of inter- 
nal improvement. The general assem- 
bly shall pass no special act conferring 
corporate powers ; corporations may be 
formed under general laws, subject to 
alteration or repeal. Stockholders in 
corporations are individually liable for 
all dues therefrom over and above their 
stock to a further sum equal in amount 
to such stock. No act authorizing asso- 
ciations with banking powers shall lake 
effi?ct until it shall be submitted to, and 
approved by, the people at a general 
elei tion. Lotteries and the sale of lot- 
tery tickets are for ever prohibited. No 
licenso to traffic in intoxicating liquors 
shall hereafter be granted in the state. 

Hi.sTORY. — The time when the settle- 
ment of the state of Ohio commenced, was 
that when the close of the revolutionary 
wnr pi'omised permanent peace and se- 
curity, even to that then distant and wild 
poition of our territory. A considerable 
part of the territory had been granted to 
the soldiets newly disbanded ; and tracts 
of considerable extent topersons who had 
been sufferers from the destructive ma- 
rauding incursions of the enemy, in the 
course of the war, when several Con- 
necticut towns were reduced to ashes. 

The Connecticut claim was founded 
on the royal charter of the colony, which, 
after fixing the northern and southern 
boundaries of Connecticut, carried them 
thjough to the Pacific ocean. Under 
this authority, Connecticut had settled 
the Wyoming valley in Pennsylvunia, 
and long exercised jurisdiction over it, 
but fiiu:lly abandoned it, together with 
all other parts of the tract thus conceded 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



489 



to her, in consideration of a valuable 
portion of Ohio, afterward called New 
Connecticut, or the Connecticut Re- 
serve. It was from that part of the 
present state of Ohio that the legislature 
of Connecticut gave the "fire lands," as 
they were termed, to the sufferers above 
referred to. 

Under the several inducements above 
enumerated, the settlement of Ohio be- 
gan in the year 1788, since which, its 
increase in population and wealth has 
been such as may well astonish the 
world, while it affords reason for gi-ati- 
tude, as well as for self-congi-atulation, 
not only to its inhabitants, but to all 
those who feel a becoming interest in the 
solid growth of our common country. 

Early Surveys. — The Great Miami 
river was surveyed for one hundred 
miles, in 1751, by Christopher Gist, 
agent of the old English Ohio company; 
and the English had a fort, or trading- 
post, on Loramie's creek, forty-seven 
miles north of Drayton, which was 
taken by the French. In 1778, the 
Miami valleys were examined by Daniel 
Boone, during his captivity, and by 
Bowman and Clark, on their military 
excursions. In 1784, '5, and '6, the In- 
dians ceded the regions of the Muskin- 
gum, Scioto, and Miamis, and the set- 
tlement was immediately commenced. 

Benjamin Stiles, of Redstone (now 
Brownville), Pa., first proposed to John 
Cleves Symmes, of New Jersey, the 
joint purchase of a large tract of land 
in Ohio, which was afterward made by 
the latter for himself, and embraced 
nearly 600,000 acres. Portions having 
been sold, parties of emigrants left New 
York and New Jersey in 1788. 

Harmer's Expedition. — In 1790, near- 
ly twenty persons were killed by the 
Indians near Cincinnati; and in the au- 
tumn General Harmer proceeded against 
the savage enemy, with 320 regulars, 
833 Kentucky and Pennsylvania militia, 
and 600 volunteers. After a severe loss 
in an ambush, he returned without ac- 
complishing anything important. In 
1791, General St. Clair, with a force of 
2,300 men, was attacked in his camp, 
fifty miles from the Miami villages, and 
after a severe battle, driven from his 



position, and pursued four miles, with 
the loss of about 900 men in kiHed, 
wounded, and missing. The following 
year, the Indians murdered several of 
the commissioners sent by the United 
States government to treat for peace. 

Fort Harmer was first occupied in 
1785 by a part of the first regiment of 
United States troops, under Major John 
Doughty, and named after their military 
commander. In the same year. Gen. 
Benjamin Tupper, of Chesterfield, Mass., 
was appointed surveyor, under the sur- 
veyor-general of that state, to begin the 
survey of the country northwest of the 
Ohio, and went that year as far as Pitts- 
burgh. The survey was postponed by 
the hostile movements of the Indiaiis; 
In the following year, he and Geneial 
Israel Putnam (the celebrated revolu- 
tionary officer) published an invitation 
to disbanded soldiers, who had received 
deeds of land in Ohio in payment of 
their services, to proceed with them to 
the Ohio region. " The Ohio Company" 
was formed, at their proposition ; and, 
on the 7th of April, 1788, Gen. Putnam 
landed at the mouth of the Muskingum, 
with a party of laborers and artificers, 
and began to make preparations for the 
first settlement designed by that associ- 
ation, at Marietta. 

At that period, the Shawnees were 
inhabitants of a large part of the best 
land in the bounds of the present state, 
especially the valleys of Scioto, Miami, 
and Wabash. Their principal chief was 
Cornstalk, who had distinguished himself 
by his faithfulness to our countrymen, by 
his successful opposition to the league 
foiTTied against them by the nations be- 
yond to assist the British in the war. 

In 1794, General Wayne, after many 
delays, and the erection of several forts, 
routed a large force of Indians and Cana- 
dians near Fort Deposite, and after de- 
stroying the various villages and posi- 
tions of the enemy along the Miami, 
brought them to consent to a treaty of 
peace, which was concluded August 3d, 
1795. 

The next settlement afler that at Ma- 
rietta, was made at Columbia, six miles 
above Cincinnati, Nov. 16, 1789, by Ma- 
jor Stiles and twenty-five others, chiefly 



490 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



from Redstone, as before mentioned, 
and partly from New York and New 
Jersey, under Judge Symmes. This 
colony was formed under circumstances 
of peculiar danger, the Indians being 
numerous and hostile around them, so 
that the settlers were compelled to take 
turns as laboi'ers and sentinels, while 
erecting a block house. 

The third settlement was made by 
Frenchmen, at Gallipolis, in 1791. They 
had been induced to come fiom France 
by the "Scioto Land Company," so 
called, an association of men who hoped 
to obtain from Congress a large grant 
of land, but were unsuccessful. Many 
of the settlers afterward dispersed, but 
the remainder at length obtained a gi'ant 
of 24,000 acres, in the southeast part 
of Scioto county, on the Ohio. The 
tract is now called the French grant. 

The foui'th settlement was at Cleve- 
land, on Lake Erie, in 1796. Another 
was made at Conneaut, the same year. 
Both these were made by emigi'ants from 
the eastern states. 

Settlers afterward came in, in great 
numbers, from different parts of the 
country, and from several parts of Eu- 
rope. 

The first territorial legislature met at 
Cinciimati, Sept. 24, 1799, whose ju- 
risdiction extended to all the territory 
northwest of the Ohio. Gen. Wm. Henry 
Harrison was the first delegate to Con- 

gfress. In 1802, Nov. 1, the conven- 
er ' ^' ^ 

tion to form a state constitution assem- 
bled at Chilicothe, which was foi-med 
and adopted in three weeks, and remain- 
ed till 1851, though never formally rati- 
fied by the people. One of the provis- 
ions of the constitution, in compliance 
with a suggestion made by Congress, 
was, that section sixteen of every town- 
ship (or a substitute where that was not 
disposable) should be reserved for the 
support of public schools. The first 
general assembly of the state met at 
Chilicothe, March 1, 1803. The sec- 
ond, the same year, passed a law allow- 
ing aliens to hold land. 

The victory of Tippecanoe, by Gen. 
Harrison, was gained in 1811. The 
first steamboat voyage was made that 
year from Pittsburgh to New Orleans. 



The first resolution in favor of a ca- 
nal, was introduced into the legislature 
in 1817 ; and in 1825 an act was passed 
"to provide for the internal improve- 
ment of the state by navigable canals." 
In that year, also, a general system for 
common schools was adopted, which was 
followed by another in 1829, laying a 
tax, for their support, of three fourths 
of a mill on the dollar, and authorizing 
householders to lay taxes for certain 
school pui-poses, in their districts. None 
but negroes and mulattoes are excluded 
from tlie schools. 

Ohio presents all varieties of surface, 
in different parts, except the mountain- 
ous. The most hilly part is in the 
southeast, on the Ohio. Along that 
stream and its tributaries are many 
tracts of level meadows, of the finest 
soil. Some of the largest and richest 
of these are watered by the Miamis. 
Prairies, or meadows of a particular 
kind, are found in several parts of the 
state, especially near the souixes of the 
Muskingum, Scioto, and the Miamis. 
They are almost destitute of timber, and 
some are marshy, others high and poor, 
while most of them ai'e covered with 
high, coarse grass. 

Bituminous coal abounds in some of 
the eastern parts of the state, and salt 
springs and iron mines are also found 
in several counties. There is usually 
good sleighing for several weeks, in the 
northern part of the state, along Lake 
Erie. The winds are generally from 
the west and southwest. 

Thei'e were foimd no signs of Indian 
settlements in the limits of the state, 
though an ancient trail, or Indian road, 
came down and crossed the Ohio river, 
at the mouth of the Licking, and led on 
through the Cumberland gap, being the 
gi'and route of travel through the vast 
western forest, between the north and 
the south. The preceding race, how- 
ever, of whom so little is known, had 
left very interesting traces on the very 
site now occupied by Cincinnati, which 
have been obliterated. A number of 
considerable works, of different forms, 
extended between Ludlow and Mound 
streets, and between Third and Nor- 
thern row. These were, first, an oval 



492 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



embankment, 830 feet by 730, and fi-om 
3 to 7 feet high, with an eastern open- 
ing of 90 feet. It was from 30 to 40 
feet wide at the base, and had evidently 
been much higher. A raised path led 
fi-om near the opening to the top of a 
flat mound, at some distance beyond 
Main street. A similar work, and a 
small circular one, may also be enumer- 
ated ; but these were inferior to another 
oval, 760 feet by 40, lying nearly north 
and south, with a southern opening, be- 
yond which was a pit 50 feet wide and 
12 feet in depth. At the corner of 
Fifth and Mound streets was a mound, 
35 feet high, and several smaller else- 
where, in some of which were found 
pottery, various shells, &:c. 

The mounds in Ohio forai part of the 
long chain which extends fi'om the mid- 
dle of New York, southwesterly to the 
Mississippi, and down its course, as is 
said by some, to Mexico. They are sup- 
posed by some writers to mark the prog- 
ress of a numerous and partially civi- 
lized people, on their gradual retreat 
before powerful enemies. Amid abund- 
ant materials for general conjectures, 
and with few hints of anything positive, 
it is not surprising that a variety of 
theories should have been proposed, to 
account for their existence. 

One cause of this variety of opinions 
has been the mistakes made by persons 
who have investigated the subject too 
hastily. The Crrave Creek mound, four- 
teen miles below Wheeling, about 70 
feet high, and 33 rods in circumference 
at the base, is one of the largest known 
to be wholly of artificial origin. A shaft 
was sunk from the top to the bottom, 
which exposed to view two rude tombs, 
one a few feet above the other, and each 
containing the remains of a human skel- 
eton, several flat stones, and parts of 
decayed logs, with a number of imple- 
ments, or weapons, and oi-naments, like 
those often discovered in other mounds. 
A small stone, with an inscription re- 
sembling Runic and some other ancient 
alphabets, said to have been taken from 
the place, has recently excited the curi- 
osity of the learned in Europe, as well 
as in America. 

At Circleville existed one of the most 



curious and wonderful collections of 
ancient works in the state. The streets 
of the town are laid out in cui-ves, cor- 
responding with the two concentric cir- 
cles of a fine, large, ancient work in 
which it is situated. The interior cir- 
cle is 47 rods in diameter, and distant 
from the outer 3 rods, with a ditch be- 
tween them. The outer wall was of 
clay, which must have been brought 
from a distance, and w.as used to make 
bricks in building the town. There was 
but one entrance through the walls, and 
that led into a large square, which had 
seven other openings. The walls were 
20 feet high. Several smaller circles, 
&c., existed in the vicinity. 

"Fifty-five years ago," said General 
Harrison, in his discoui'se before the 
historical society of Ohio, "there was 
not a Christian inhabitant within the 
bounds which now comprise the state of 
Ohio; and if, a few years anterior to that 
period, a traveller had been passing 
down the magnificent river which forms 
our southern boundary, he might not 
have seen, in its whole course of eleven 
hundred miles, a single human being, 
certainly not a habitation, nor the ves- 
tige of one, calculated for the residence 
of man. He might, indeed, have seen 
indications that it was not always thus. 
His eye might have rested on some stu- 
pendous mound, or lengthened lines of 
ramparts, and traverses of earth, still of 
considerable elevation, which proved 
that the country had once been possessed 
by a numerous and laborious people. 
But he would have seen, also, indubitable 
evidences that centuries had passed away 
since these remains had been occupied 
by those for whose use they had been 
reared." 

He concluded that their departure 
must have been a matter of necessity ; 
for no people would willingly have 
abandoned sucli a country, after a long 
residence, and the labor they had be- 
stowed upon it, unless, like the He- 
brews, they fled fi-om a tyi'ant, or un- 
feeling taskmasters. 

" If they had been made to yield to a 
more numerous, or more gallant people, 
what country had received the fugitives 1 
and what has become of the conquer- 



ors? Had they, too, been forced to fly 
before a new swarm from some northern 
or southern hive?" What was their 
fate 1 and why has so large a portion of 
country, so beautiful, inviting, abound- 
ing in all that is desirable, been left to 
the wild beasts, or for distant tribes of 
savages to mingle in mortal conflicts 1 

We learn from the extensive country, 
covered by their remains, that they were 
a numerous agricultural people, congre- 
gated in considerable cities, but in pos- 
session of no domestic animals. It 
seems probable, if not certain, that they 
possessed a national religion, "in the 
celebration of which, all that was pom- 
pous, gorgeous, and imposing, that a 
semi-barbarous nation could devise, was 
brought into occasional display; that 
there were a numerous priesthood, and 
altars, often smoking with hecatombs of 
victims." They had made much prog- 
ress in the ai't of building; their habita- 
tions wei-e probably small, inconvenient, 
and composed of slight and perishable 
materials, as few remains of them are to 
be discovered. 

General Harrison concluded that they 
were assailed both from the north and 
the south, receded from both directions, 
and made their last effort at resistance, 
on the banks of the Ohio. 

The engineers who directed the exe- 
cution of the Miami works, he says, 
must have known the importance of flank 
defences; and, "if their bastions are 
not as perfect, as to form, as those which 
are in use in modern engineering, their 
position, as well as that of the long line 
of curtains, are precisely as they should 
be." 

He denies the occupation of the banks 
of the Ohio for centuries before its dis- 
covery by Europeans, but thinks there ] 
are indubitable marks of its having been 
thickly inhabited by a race of men in- 
ferior and subsequent to the authors of 
the gi'eat works. Pottery, pipes, stone 
hatchets, and other articles, are found 
in great abundance, inferior in work- 
manship to those of the former people. 

The tribes within the bounds of this 
state, when the white settlements com- j 
menced, as General Harrison informs 
us, were the Wyandots, Miamis, Shaw- , 



anees, Delawares, a remnant of the Mo- 
hegans (who had united themselves to 
the Delawares), and a band of the Otto- 
was. " There may also have been some 
bands fi-om the Senecas and Tuscaroras 
remaining in the northern part of the 
state. But, whether resident or not, the 
country, for some distance beyond the 
Pennsylvania line, certainly belonged to 
them." As has been before remarked, 
however, the red men appear to have had 
no permanent settlements in any part of 
this extensive region, at least in a long 
course of time, as none of the usual or 
supposable marks of their fixed resi- 
dence were perceptible. 

How different is now the aspect of 
the country! Flourishing villages and 
scattered farmhouses on every side, 
amid fields of corn, sometimes extend- 
ing farther than the compass of vision ; 
large towns and cities at the principal 
exits of trade, extending their crowded 
streets along the shores of the rivers, 
and cro^vning the neighboring eminences 
with villas; houses for the education of 
the young, and for the worship of God, 
sprinkled over every part of the terri- 
tory; and steam laboring with all its 
power to bear rich fi-eights over the land 
and the water ! 

There are 87 counties, 784 town- 
plats, 1010 postoffices, 5 incorporated 
cities, 45 chartered railroad companies, 
about 30 canal- companies, 30 banking 
com]ianies, 20 colleges and principal 
seminaries, an asylum for lunatics, one 
for the deaf and dumb and another for 
the blind, and a complete system of com- 
mon schools. What is, perhaps, of 
equal importance, Sunday-schools are 
universally established, as in most other 
parts of our country, every week, and 
often every day, bringing the minds of 
the old and the young to the mutual 
study of the word of God, and practi- 
cally training the people to the obser- 
vance of the Sabbath, its occupation in 
work appropriate to its institution, and 
training the people to the important 
duty of teaching, under circumstances 
most favorable to its success. 

The population in 1790 was about 
3,000; in 1850, 1,977,031, aboveG.^,()00 
per cent. 



The Connecticut Reserve is one of the 
most flourishing parts of the state. It 
contains the seven northeastern counties, 
120 miles east and west, and 52 north 
and south, with four millions of acres, 
and was settled chiefly from Connecticut 
and Massachusetts. 

A striking view of the rapid and solid 
growth of Ohio is presented by the fol- 
lowing statistics : — 

The first permanent settlement was 
made in 1788, and the following are 
among the returnsftmade to the legisla- 
ture forty years afterward, in 1836 : 
Land for taxation, 16,460,029 acres; 
value of the above, exclusive of town 
property, $55,242,254 ; value of the town 
property, excepted, $16,906,854 ; houses, 
280,562; cattle, 402,376; merchants' 
capital, $8,899,994; pleasure-carriages, 
2,986. The taxes on the above, for 
state, county, town, and road pu/poses, 
were $995,376. The revenue of the 
state that year, $301,057. As early as 
1837, there were 450 miles of navigable 
canals, with expectation of 1,000 by 
1839. 

CINCINNATI. 

Cincinnati is the largest city in the 
western states, and enjoys a situation 
distinguished by several advantages, on 
the north bank of the Ohio river, which 
there rises, with a bold, but not too ab- 
rupt ascent, to the height of 108 feet 
above low-water mark, affording a con- 
venient and commanding elevation to 
the upper streets. The latitude of the 
city is 39° 6' 30'^ north, and the longi- 
tude, 7° 24' 45" west. It stands half 
way between the head of the Ohio, at 
Pittsburgh, and its confluence with the 
Mississippi, at Cairo, being 465 miles 
distant from each, measuring the course 
of the stream. From the following 
cities the distances by the roads are as 
follows: Indianapolis 120, Columbus 
115, Lexington 90, Nashville 270, Pitts- 
burgh 298. By the steamboat routes it 
is 198 miles fi'om Louisville, 655 from 
St. Louis, 1335 from Natchez, 1631 from 
New Orleans. By the stage routes, 
Washington is 502 miles, Baltimore 518, 
and Philadelphia 617. By the lakes, 
the distance to New York is 650 miles. 



Cincinnati stands near the head of 
one of the largest and most fertile of the 
valleys watered by the Ohio. It is 
twelve miles in circumference, and en- 
closed by hills of moderate elevation, 
which afford a succession of varied and 
pleasing scenes, though the approach to 
the city by water affords no strikino- 
view. 

The climate is very variable, and the 
cold in winter severe, but Cincinnati is 
a healthy city. The want of pavements 
is a serious inconvenience in wet weath- 
er, although the sloping ground on which 
the city is built is favorable to draining. 

Geology. — The rocks at Cincinnati 
are mountain limestone, below which, as 
elsewhere, are found beds of dbal. They 
are, however, at a considerable distance 
beneath. The vicinity appears to have 
been once a plain, 600 feet above the 
river at low water, and 1200 above the 
Atlantic, but cut down by streams, in 
the course of ages, which expose alter- 
nate strata of blue clay, marl, and fossil- 
iferous limestone, nearly pure, and of a 
bluish color. At different elevations, 
in alluvial deposites left by the streams, 
at different ages, in their former beds, 
are found old trees, and the remains of 
elephants. On the larger streams are 
fine bottom lands, or meadows, of a very 
rich soil, of an amber color, which, in 
floods, tinges the river. Wells are 
sometimes filled with carbonic acid gas, 
or choke-damp, which proceeds from the 
limestone. Numerous marine fossils 
abound in the rocks. 

Railroads and canals, as well as steam- 
boats, greatly subserve the business of 
Cincinnati. In 1841, there were esti- 
mated to be 1,125 miles of these three 
kinds of routes concentrating at this 
city, to cost, when completed, twelve 
millions of dollars. 

Cincinnati, notwithstanding its pres- 
ent importance, and the great advantages 
of its position, was not occupied until 
most of the other princijoal points on the 
western rivers had been planted with 
towns. 

The first surveys were begun by Mr. 
Filson in 1788; but he soon disapj^eared 
in the woods, and was never seen again. 
Israel Ludlow, Robert Patterson, and 




32 



498 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



Mathias Denman, occupied a part of the 
land at the close of that yeai' and the 
next, and they gave the place the name 
of Losantiville, which was fortunately 
soon changed to that which it still bears. 
Jan. 7, 1789, thirty men drew lots for 
portions of the land, but about a year 
afterward, Joel Williams purchased two 
thirds of the town. The original price 
of the whole was $500, in continental 
certificates, then worth only five shil- 
lings on the pound. In June, 17S9, 
Foit Washington was erected by Major 
13uughty, with forty men, and consisted 
of four blockhouses, with a stockade and 
barracks. In 1790, General Arthur St. 
Clair arrived, as governor of the "tem- 
tory northwest of the Ohio." 

" When I first saw the upper plain on 
which Cincinnati stands," says General 
Harrison, "it was literally covered with 
low lines of embankments. I had the 
honor to attend General Wayne two 
years afterward, in an excursion to ex- 
amine them. The number and variety 
of figures in which the lines were drawn 
were almost endless. The cause I take 
to have been continued cultivation; and 
the probability is, that the people were 
the conquerors of the original posses- 
sors." 

Judge Burnet says, that when he went 
to Ohio, in 1796, the country was hter- 
ally a wilderness. The entire popula- 
tion between Pennsylvania and the Mis- 
sissippi, fi"om the Ohio to the lakes, was 
fifteen thousand. Cincinnati was a small 
village of log-cabins, including, perhaps, 
a dozen of frame houses, with stone 
chimneys, most of them unfinished. Not 
a brick had been seen in the place. 

Cincinnati in 1800. — This view of our 
western inland emporium, while in its 
infancy, possesses a great degree of in- 
terest. See page 493. How much more 
cheerful to the eye than the sight of 
many an ancient European city, in which 
no trace of improvement is visible, and 
where no thought of enterprise is found ! 
In our western towns, industry, directed 
by intelligence, and stimulated by hope, 
displays itself in prodigies, and strides 
on like a giant. In this city, however, 
if anywhere, our countrymen have sur- 
passed themselves ; and even those of 



us best acquainted with their energy and 
success may compare this print and the 
frontispiece, with astonishment. The 
particulars of the changes which have 
taken place between 1800 and the pres- 
ent time, we need not repeat; but we 
will refer the reader to the preceding 
pages, where they are recorded. 

Cincinnati in 1848. — The transition 
from the view on page 493, to the one 
depicted on p, 495, seems like an illusion. 
Such a growth, in less than half a cen- 
tury, appears impossible. Cities have 
indeed been suddenly erected by mon- 
archs who had absolute power over their 
subjects; but these changes have been 
produced by the spontaneous labors of 
individuals. The growth of the place 
has been natural, and the impulse will 
be continued. The noble display of 
steamboats, drawoi up in line, is still in- 
ferior to what might actually be made ; 
and the long ranges of stores in fionl, 
as well as the crowded buildings beyond, 
give but an imperfect idea of their real 
numbers. 

The streets of Cincinnati are gener- 
ally wide, straight, and well-built. They 
cross at right angles, and seven of them 
are sixty-six feet in breadth. The spaces 
enclosed between them are 396 feet 
square ; and one of these is appropriated 
to public buildings and public pui"])Oses. 
A portion of another is also devoted to 
the same use. Main street, Broadway, 
and Fourth streets, are the finest streets ; 
but Pearl street, between Market and 
Walnut, has a fine block of buildings, 
in a uniform style, terminated by a large 
hotel. 

The Landing-Place. See page 497. — 
This nearer view of the river's side will 
give a more just idea of the spacious 
street which borders the shore, and of 
the size of the buildings, though it shows 
but a small part of the front line of the 
city. The reader will readily perceive, 
that the landing-place is convenient, as 
it extends far along the bank, up and 
down the river. It is indeed a landing- 
place well adapted to the extensive and 
increasing trade of this commercial me- 
tropolis of the west. 

The principal public buildings are the 
courthouse, jail, four markets (one of 



500 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF OHIO. 



which is 400 feet in length), the Bazaar, 
Cincinnati college, the Catholic Athe- 
naeum, the Medical college, the Mechan- 
ics' institute, two theatres, two museums, 
the hospital and lunatic asylum, the 
Woodward high school, and nearly 
thirty churches. The town is chiefly 
built of brick. 

Manufactures. — Within a few years, 
the amount and variety of manufactures 
have greatly increased. The principal 
business is done in heavy iron castings, 
for steam-engines and machinery. A 
great deal of cabinet-work is also pro- 
duced, and numerous steamboats and 
canal-boats are built every year. The 
Cincinnati Manufacturing Company have 
a collection of large buildings on Deer 
Creek. 

Great quantities of pork are prepared 
and shipped at Cincinnati. In 1848, 
not less than 500,000 hogs were killed 
in the city. The price was then only 
about two and a half cents a pound. 
One of the consequences of this busi- 
ness is the manufacture of great quan- 
tities of lard and oil. 

Numerous steamboats have annually 
been built at Cincinnati. In 1843 the 
number was 43, whose tonnage was 
8,571, and cost $618,000; in 1844, 89. 

Canal-boats proceed from Cincinnati 
through the canal, over Lake Erie, to 
Buffalo. Tolls on the Ohio canals in 
1850, about $800,000. 

Orphan Asylums. — There are three: — 

1. St. Peter's orphan asylum, man- 
aged by the sisters of charity. 

2. St. Aloysius's orphan asylum, an- 
other Roman catholic institution, for 
boys. 

3. The Cincinnati orphan asylum, 
erected by contributions of the citi- 
zens. It is 64 feet by 54, four stories 
high, and cost S18,000. It stands in 
Elm street. The children are taught 
at a good school, and have a good libra- 
ry, and extensive playgrounds. Morals 
and religion are carefully inculcated, and 
the future interest of the pupils provi- 
ded for. 

The Roman Catholic Church. — The 
building is of simple form, and in a neat 
style of architecture. The walls are 
straight and smooth, with seven win- 



dows on each side, and a portico pro- 
jected in front, with ten Corinthian col- 
umns. The steeple, which is dispropor- 
tionately high, is conspicuous from a 
distance, (see engraving, p. 499.) 

The Commercial Hospital and Lunatic 
Asylum of Ohio is situated in the north- 
western part of Cincinnati, in a retired 
and airy situation. The building is of 
brick, vrith three stories and a basement, 
and can contain 250 inmates. The poor- 
house occupies a separate part of the 
edifice; and there are two medical de- 
partments. Boatmen who have paid 
hospital money, those who have not, and 
the town poor, are provided for gratui- 
tously in this institution, by different 
funds. Other sick persons are admitted 
at two dollars a week. 

The House of Employment for Fe- 
male Poor, and the Savings Bank, are 
also valuable institutions. 

Benevolent Societies. — The Cincinnati 
Total Abstinence Temperance society; 
the Colonization society ; the Ohio Anti- 
Slavery society; the Scots' Benevolent 
society; St. George's society; the Cin- 
cinnati Typographical assocation; and 
the Hibernian Benevolent society. 

The Cincinnati _ Astronomical Society, 
organized in 1842, have an observa- 
tory, with a large telescope, on Mount 
Adams, under the care of Professor 
Mitchells. 

T?ie Western Academy of Natural 
Sciences was incorporated in 1838, and 
has a valuable cabinet. 

The Apprentices'' Library w^s founded 
in 1821, by private contributions, and 
is oj3en to all minors in the city, brought 
up to laborious employments. 

The Young Men's Mercantile Library 
Association has its library and reading- 
rooms in the Cincinnati college, which 
are open daily. It was organized in 
1835, and chartered the following year. 

Education. — 1. Common Schools. — 
The common school system of Cincin- 
nati was founded in 1830-'31, and the 
number of children taught is very large. 
The number of districts is ten, which 
are now supplied with brick school- 
houses, with cupolas, and furnished with 
common apparatus, with seats for from 
thi-ee to five hundred pupils, each, at a 




t- 



502 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 




Kenyon College. 



cost of more than S100,000. They are 
under three boards, viz. : 1, the trus- 
tees ; 2, tlie examiners ; 3, the corps of 
teachers. 

2. Academies, or Classical Schools. — 
There are several in diffei'ent parts of 
the city. 

COLLEGES. 

Cincinnati College was chartered in 
181S-'19, with university powers, and 
has been endowed chiefly by private 
contribution. It has a building in the 
middle of the city, with chymical and 
philosophical apparatus. 

St. Xavier College, a Jesuit institu- 
tion, enjoys the privileges of a univer- 
sity, and has a mercantile, as well as a 
classical department. It has a library 
of 6,000 volumes, and a cabinet of nat- 
ural history. The expenses are S160 
a year, including board. 

Woodward College was founded in 
1812, by William Woodward, one of the 
early settlers, who gave the land on 
which the building is erected. 

The Medical College of Ohio, on Sixth 
street. Students are admitted to the 
lectures for $15, and for $5 more to the 
hospital, which is large. 

Lane Seminary, a presbyterian theo- 
logical seminary, is situated at Walnut 



Hills, a short distance from Cincinnati. 
Rev. Lyman Beecher is president. The 
course of study occupies three years, 
and is gratuitous, while room-rent is 
only $5 a year, and incidental expenses 
•$5. This seminary enjoys a fine and 
conspicuous situation. The building 
for the lodsfinjjs of the students is of 
four stories and a basement, and has an 
entrance in the middle, with five win- 
dows on each side of the door, and suf- 
ficient depth to afford numerous apart- 
ments. On a line with it, at the right, 
is a very neat edifice for the chapel and 
other purposes, in simple GreciaTi style, 
with six Doric columns supporting an 
architrave, forming a portico, to which 
rises a broad range of steps. In the 
rear are the houses of the president and 
professoi's ; and the whole is backed by 
a fine wood, while spacious gi'ounds in 
front and around are laid out in yards, 
walks, and gardens. 

GAMBIER. 

Gambier is the seat of Kenyon col- 
lege. Connected with this are Bexley 
Hall (the principal episcopal academi- 
cal and theological institutions of this 
part of the country), Milnor Hall (the 
junior preparatory school), and Rosse 
chapel. They are situated in the midst 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



503 



of a large tract of land, belonging to the 
diocese, in a secluded and pleasant 
place, and are under the direction of a 
board of trustees. In the vicinity are 
the bishop's residence, the president's 
house, and the dwellings of five profes- 
sors, vv^ith a number of other buildings, 
including farmhouses, storehouses, &c. 

Kenijon College. — This edifice is of a 
plain, Gothic style, built of stone, 190 
feet in length and 44 in breadth, with a 
spire in the centre. Funds for its erec- 
tion having been collected from the con- 
tributions of friends in England, by 
Bishop Chase, in spite of much opposi- 
tion, the main building and spire were 
finished in 1828. The wings were ad- 
ded in 1834 and 1835, under the direc- 
tion of Bishop M'llvaine, by whom 
further subscriptions were obtained in 
1833. (see engraving, page 502.) 

All the buildings, with 4,000 acres of 
land surrounding them, belong to the 
institution, which affords theological in- 
struction gratuitously, and is supported 
chiefly by the products of the soil. The 
whole was estimated, in 1843, to be 
worth fi-ora $175,000 to $185,000. 

The institution was placed in the 
midst of this tract of land to secure it 
from all exposure to intrusion. An un- 
settled region was selected, in the midst 
of the forest, and the trees have been 
cleared off since the commencement of 
the undertaking. 

Bexlcy Hall is a well-proportioned 
building, for the residence of the theo- 
logical students of Kenyon college. It 
was constructed with funds raised in 
England by Bishop M'llvaine, after a 
plan proposed by an architect in Lon- 
don. It is 100 feet long and 50 deep, 
and affords accommodations for a large 
number of students. It bears the name 
of liord Bexley, a distinguished and 
efficient friend of the institution, and 
well known for his enlightened and 
Christian zeal. 

MUnor Hall is the preparatory school 
for Kenyon college. It is of brick, and 
was erected by money contributed in 
1833, under the direction of Bishop 
M'llvaine. 

Rosse Chapel was raised in 1836, on 
the site of a larger one, commenced by 



Bishop Chase, and serves both as the 
college chapel and the parish church. 

MARIETTA. 

The situation of this village is not 
unpleasant, but low, yet its institutions 
and society have given it a distinction 
worthy of the oldest settlement in the 
state. It is the capital of Washington 
county, and stands on the west bank of 
the Ohio, immediately above the mouth 
of the Muskingum. It is 61 miles 
southeast of Zanesville, 109 southeast 
of Columbus, 93 east by north of Chili- 
cothe, and 178 from Pittsburgh. The 
college, and several academies and 
schools, give a very respectable literary 
standing. Shipbuilding was formerly 
carried on. 

Here, as we have before mentioned, 
was planted the first permanent colony 
of civilized men within the bounds of 
the present state of Ohio. Here, on 
the 7th of April, 1788, landed a party 
of adventurers, with the celebrated vet- 
eran. General Israel Putnam, at their 
head. The fort, erected by United 
States' troops, had been some time con- 
structed, the site of which is still pointed 
out. 




504 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



Antiquities. — Near the fort, on high 
gi'ound and a dry soil, was an ancient 
mound, which was dug away some years 
ago, and several curious relics were 
brought to light. Dr. S. P. Hildreth, 
of that place, published drawings and a 
description, from which we have derived 
the following particulars. The objects 
were buried with a dead body, the I'e- 
mains of which existed. 

The object of this form (see engra- 
ving, page 22), made of silver, was 
found lying beside the remains of the 
body. It is about six inches long, and 
two in breadth, and weighs an ounce. 
It is smooth, with three longitudinal 
ridges, and four holes for rivets, proba- 
bly to attach it to the scabbard. 

Remains of the blade were found, but 
they were mere iron rust ; a portion of 
which was in the corroded fragments of 
the copper tip. 




Front and back view of a boss of the sword-belt. 

Three of these were found lying on 
the forehead of the skull, and one of 
copper, thickly plated with silver. They 
are plain, with a circular depression 
round the centre, and measure two and 
a quarter inches across. A bit of leather 
remained between two of the bosses, 
preserved by the oxyde of copper. 

Near the feet of the body was found 
a small piece of copper, of this shape, 




A copper plumb, or pendent. 

weighing three ounces. It appears to 
have been formed of small pieces of na- 
tive copper, pounded together, and in 
the cracks are several pieces of silver, 
one about the size of a sixpence. 

There were also found a piece of red 
ochre, and one of iron ore, partly vitri- 
fied. 

The body lay with the back on the 
surface of the ground, and its head 
toward the southwest. Fragments of 
charcoal and mineral coal, half burnt, 
lay about the body; and over and around 
the whole was a circle of thin, flat stones, 
which seemed to have been laid while 
the fire was burning. It seemed that the 
mound had been formed over this tomb, 
by heaping up the earth from the neigh- 
borhood, being of clay, sand, and gravel. 
It was six feet high, and thirty or forty 
feet in diameter; but had been reduced 
in height by the action of rain, &c. The 
remains of the skeleton were imperfect, 
and some of the bones soon crumbled. 
It was about six feet in length ; the skull 
was very thick. 

The mound was found by the first set- 
tlers covered with trees as ancient as 
those which grew around it, and every- 
thing indicated antiquity. 

Several other ancient works existed 
at Marietta, from some of which, bits of 
pottery have been taken. Dr. Hildreth 
mentions several specimens in his pos- 
session, which appear to have lain 
long exposed to the elements, on the 
surface of the ground, yet retained their 
structure and hai'dness. They consist 
of clay and pounded flint. Such as are 
found on the meadows are composed, 
he tells us, of clay and broken clam- 
shells ; and these he refers to ihe pres- 
ent race of redmen. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



505 



Ashtabula county is remarkable for 
containing the firet settlements in the 
Western Reserve, and, indeed, in all 
northern Ohio. The first surveying par- 
ty of the Reserve landed at the mouth 
of Conneaut on the 4th of July, 1796. 
It consisted of fifty-two persons, two of 
whom were women ; and the family of 
Judge James Kingsley was the first 
which ever wintered within the limits 
of that region, now so populous. 

Conneaut Landing, the scene of the 
above events, is now an important place 
of transhipment, and has a pier with a 
lighthouse, with a few buildings. The 
village, or borough, of the same name, 
stands at the distance of two miles 
north. It is twenty-eight miles fiom 
Erie, Pennsylvania, and contains four 
churches, an academy, and about 4,000 
inhabitants. 

Toledo, on the left bank of Maumee, 
and on the Wabash and Erie canal, is 
one hundred and thirty-four miles north- 
west from Columbus, two hundi-ed and 
forty-six miles, by the canal, from Cin- 
cinnati, and fifty south of Detroit. It 
extends along the river more than a 
mile, with two landings, the upper and 
the lower, where most of the business is 
done, and where are many large stores 
and warehouses. The view down the 
river, from the upper landing, is re- 
markably fine, being extensive, bounded 
by headlands, and often enlivened with 
numerous vessels. 

Fort Industry was built on the site of 
this town, in ISOO, near the present Sum- 
mit street, in which the Indian treaty 
was held, on the fourth of July, 1805, 
at which the Indian title to the *' fire- 
lands " was extinguished. The tribes 
represented were the Ottowa, Chippewa, 
Pottawatomie, Wyandot, Shawnee, Mun- 
see, and Delaware. 

Toledo was incorporated in 1836 as a 
city, and has five churches, two banks, 
and about 4,000 inhabitants. 

Cleveland has one of the best har- 
bors on Lake Erie, it being formed by 
the mouth of Cuyahoga river, and im- 
proved by two piers, each four hundred 
and twenty-five yards in length, running 
into the lake on both sides. The Ohio 
canal, which extends from this place to 



Ohio river, continues the line of navi- 
gation commenced by the Erie canal, 
from the ocean to that great tributary 
of the Mississippi, which washes the 
southern border of this stale, and gives 
it its name. Immense quantities of 
wheat and other productions are annu- 
ally sent through Cleveland to New 
York, and the exports to Canada are 
large, through the Welland canal. The 
Ohio and Pennsylvania canal offers a 
ready communication with Pittsburg; 
and railroads are proposed to extend 
from Cleveland to Wellsville, on the 
Ohio, and to Columbus. 

The Medical College, though of re- 
cent establishment, is flourishing, and 
has seven professors, with all the neces- 
sary apparatus. 

Preparations were made in 1837 for a 
marine hospital, on a tract of nine acres 
of land on the heights overlooking the 
lake. The edifice is to be of hewn stone, 
and in the Ionic style. 

The number of churches is twenty- 
one, and population which in 1796 was 
only three, in 1840 was 6,071, and in 
1850, 17,094, of whom 9,000 were na- 
tives of the United States. 

Akron, thirty-six miles from Cleve- 
land, and one hundred and ten northeast 
of Columbus, stands on the Ohio canal, at 
the Portage summit, and at its junction 
with the Pennsylvania canal. The nu- 
mei'ous locks and Little Cuyahoga river 
afford an abundance of water-power for 
manufacturing purposes. There are a 
courthouse, five churches, an academy, a 
number of mills and manufactories, and 
about 4,000 inhabitants. It was laid out 
in 1825, and at first the inhabitants were 
all confined to South Aki'on, just below. 
It is now a very flourishing place. 

Cuyahoga Falls, five miles from Ak- 
i"on, stands on the river of the same 
name, and possesses extraordinary ad- 
vantages for a manufacturing town, be- 
ing well supplied with water-power by 
the stream, which makes a descent of 
two hundred and forty feet in a short 
distance. The banks and bed of the 
stream are rocky, and present a wild 
scene, with a succession of cascades. 
Here are four churches, and 1,500 in- 
habitants. 



506 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP OHIO. 



Elyria. — This town is one hundred 
and thirty miles northeast of Columbus, 
and twenty-four west of Cleveland, and is 
the capital of Lorain county. It stands 
on a level piece of ground, seven miles 
from Lake Erie, and near the junction 
of the forks of Black river, which af- 
fords abundance of water-power, by ma- 
king falls of forty feet. The population 
is only about 1,500 inhabitants, but there 
ai'e several manufactories, six churches, 
and an academy. The first settlement was 
made in 1817, by Heman Ely, of West 
Springfield, Massachusetts. One of the 
presbyterian churches is of sandstone, 
cost $8,000, and is one of the most ele- 
gant in Ohio. 

Oberlin, the seat of a collegiate in- 
stitute, is eight miles distant from 
Elyria. This institution was founded 
in 1834, and contains a male and a fe- 
male department, with a president, fif- 
teen professors and teachers, and about 
five hundred pupils. It is a manual-labor 
institution. Stage-coaches run every 
day to Elyria. The village resembles 
those of New Engrland, consistinsr of 
houses of two stories, painted white. 

Mansfield, sixty-eight miles from 
Columbus, and sixty-nine from Sandus- 
ky, has an elevated situation, and con- 
tains a courthouse, seven churches, an 
academy, and a population of about 
2,800. It has a dnily communication 
with Sandusky by the railroad, and 
stage-coaches run to Columbus, Woos- 
ter, &c., three tirties a week. 

Sandusky City. — This is an impor- 
tant commercial place, standing on a fine 
bay, three miles from Lake Erie. Many 
vessels enter here. The population is 
about 5,500, and fast increasing. It 
contains five churches. Much valuable 
building-stone is quarried in the vicinity. 
Railroad cars arrive and depart daily for 
Cincinnati, through Cleveland, and for 
Mansfield, while stage-coaches run in 
several directions. 

Steuuenville stands on the western 
bank of the Ohio, twenty-two miles 
above Wheeling, and one hundred and 
forty-seven east by north from Columbus, 
and is regularly laid out. It is thirty- 
five miles below Pittsburg, by water, 
and contains six churches, a courthouse, 



a bank, and two academies, as well as a 
number of manufactories. Stao-e-coaches 
start daily for Pittsburg, and frequently 
for Washington, Cambridge, Canton, &c. 

This town is named from Fort Steu- 
ben, which was erected in 1789, near 
the site of the present female seminary, 
in High street. It consisted of several 
block-houses, connected by palisade fen- 
ces. It was occupied by United States 
infantry, commanded by Colonel Beattv, 
until Wayne's victory, after which it 
was dismantled. Another block-house 
stood on the opposite side of the river. 
The town was laid out in 1798, by Bez- 
aleel Wells and James Ross, of Penn- 
sylvania. It was incorporated February 
14, 1805. 

The situation of Steubenville is hand- 
some, as it occupies an elevated plain ; 
and the neighboring country is rich and 
well cultivated, the soil being esteemed 
the best for wheat in Ohio. The sur- 
rounding region is also remarkably well 
adapted to the raising of wheat. Meri- 
noes, were introduced here, at an early 
period, by Messrs. Wells and Dicker- 
son ; and a woollen luanufactory was 
erected in Steubenville in 1814, which 
led to the establishment of various man- 
ufactories in the place. It now con- 
tains five of woollen, one of paper, one 
of cotton, one of iron, and two of glass, 
besides others ; and in the neighbor- 
hood are seven copperas manufactories. 
All these employ between eight hun- 
dred and one thousand hands, and con- 
sume more than a million bushels of 
coal annually. This important kind of 
fuel is derived from mines at a short 
distance from the town. The popula- 
tion, in 1810, was 800 ; in 1820, 2,479; 
in 1830, 2,964; in 1840, 4,247; and in 
1850, about 7,000. 

Steubenville contains five public 
schools and four select ones, besides 
a male and a female seminary. The for- 
mer is named Grove academy, and is a 
flourishing institution, containing about 
eighty pupils. The latter, situated on 
the bank of the Ohio, was commenced in 
1829, at an expense of nearly S40,000, 
has ten or twelve teachers, and about 
one hundred and fifty pupils. The edi- 
fice presents a fine and imposing front, 



508 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



having a central building of four stories, 
with a piazza, and two long wings of 
three stories. A broad lawn, shaded 
with trees, slopes toward the river. 

Portsmouth, on the right bank of the 
Ohio river, at the mouth of the Scioto, 
one hundred and five miles from Cin- 
cinnati, is at the head of the Ohio canal, 
and contains a population of about 5,000 
inhabitants. The public buildings are 
the courthouse, a bank, and four church- 
es. Iron ore is found in the upper parts 
of Scioto county, and in Lawrence 
country, and there are several mills and 
manufactories. Water, for the supply of| 
the town, is raised from theriver by steam. 
Steamboats depart daily for Wheel- 
ing, Pittsburg, &c., and stage-coaches 
go daily to Columbus. Portsmouth is 
the capital of Scioto county. A com- 
pany of eastern capitalists are forming 
a basin in the old cliannel of the Scioto, 
for the building and repairing of steam- 
boats. 

Painesville. — This town has a high 
situation on the left side of Grand riv- 
er, three miles from Lake Erie, and 31 
miles from Cleveland, with a population 
of about 1,500. There are four churches 
and a courthouse. Stage-coaches start 
daily for Buffalo. 

Fairport, the harbor of Painesville, 
is three miles farther north, nearly at the 
mouth of the river. 

WiLLOUGUBY. — This is a small vil- 
lage, eleven miles southwest from Paines- 
ville, the seat of Willoughby medical 
college. This institution was incorpo- 
rated in 1834, and has nine professors, 
and about one hundred and thirty stu- 
dents. The lectures commence on the 
last Monday in October. 

Zanesville enjoys a very handsome 
situation, on the left bank of Muskingum 
river, seventy-three miles from Wheel- 
ing, opposite the mouth of Licking river. 
The principal public buildings are the 
courthouse, a market, two academies, a 
bank, fourteen churches, and the athenae- 
um, with a reading-room and mineralogi- 
cal cabinet. A fine bridge crosses the 
Muskinsfum, over which passes the na- 
tional road. The population is about 
11,000. 

A succession of dams and locks ren- 



ders the navigation to the Ohio uninter- 
rupted along the valley of the Muskin- 
gum ; and water-power is obtained for 
several large flour-mills and iron-woiks. 
The first settlement was made here in 
the year 1799, when the village was 
laid out. The site of the town was 
granted to Ebenezer Zane (after whom 
it was named) as a reward for opening 
a bridle-road from Wheeling to Mays- 
ville. 

There is a daily communication be- 
tween Zanesville, and Maysville, Ken- 
tucky, by stage-coaches, as well as with 
Cincinnati and Wheeling, and twice a 
week with Marietta and Cleveland. 

Gallipolis, ninety-seven miles from 
Cincinnati, and three hundred from 
Pittsburg by water, stands on the left 
bank of Scioto river. It has a population 
of about 2,600 inhabitants, and contains 
three churches, a courthouse, a bank, 
and an academy, and is the capital of 
Gallia county. Some of the inhabitants 
are of French descent. 

Chillicothe. — This town, the capital 
of Ross county, was formerly the seat 
of government of Ohio. It is situated 
ninety-three miles from Cincinnati, on 
the left bank of the Scioto, extending 
south to Point creek, a distance of about 
three fourths of a mile. It contains a 
United States land-office, two banks, two 
academies, and thirteen churches. The 
population is about 8,000. A number of 
ancient mounds formerly stood in the 
town and its vicinity. The Ohio canal 
passes through tlie place, and stage- 
coaches go daily for Zanesville, Colum- 
bus, Maysville, and Portsmouth. 

Chillicothe has been compared to 
Philadelphia, in situation and plan, as 
it stands on a plain, and the streets are 
regular, and the Scioto and Paint creeks 
bounding it on both sides, as the Dela- 
ware and Schuylkill. But the surround- 
ing scenery is far superior, and equalled 
by but few other cities. The seat of 
government of the Northwest territory 
was established here in ISOO, by an act 
of Congress, and the business was done 
in a loff-house. The old statehouse 
(now the county courthouse) was com- 
menced in 1800, and is believed to be 
the first stone building erected in the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



509 



territory. In 1816, the seat of govern- 
ment was i-emoved to Columbus. 

Pickaway County was formed in 
1810, from Ross, Fairfield, and Frank- 
lin counties, and contains the Pickaway 
plains, said to be the richest body of 
lands in the state. The name is derived 
from that of the Piqua Indians, a tribe 
of the Shawnees. Here resided the 
celebrated chiefs Logan and Cornplant- 
er. The county abounds in plain and 
fertile country, and the eye may fre- 
quently overlook an extent of five hun- 
dred acres of com. The four varieties 
of Ohio soil, however, are to be found 
in different parts of the county, viz., 
woodland, barren, plain and prairie. The 
barrens were formerly covered with 
shrub-oak, and received their name from 
their supposed worthlessness. They 
have, however, proved to be very good 
for gi"ass and oats. The first settlers 
came principally from Pennsylvania and 
Virginia. The chief productions are 
corn, wheat, oats, grass, pork, wool, and 
neat cattle. Many of the inhabitants of 
the west side of Scioto river are tenants. 
Population in 1850, 21,286. 

In 1774, Lord Dunmore marched 
from Virginia with 3,000 men, to attack 
the Indian towns on the Pickaway 
plains, but one of his divisions was as- 
saulted in his camp, at the mouth of 
the Kenhawa, now Point Pleasant, and 
barely succeeded in repulsing the sav- 
ages after a severe loss. The Indians 
at length sued for peace, after the army 
had reached Old Chillicothe ; and on 
that occasion Logan made the speech 
which has been so much celebrated as 
a specimen of simple but pathetic elo- 
quence. His last days were melancholy. 
He became addicted to intemperance, 
and wandered about the country, until 
he was killed by an Indian whom he 
had offended. 

Among the principal towns in Picka- 
way county is Circleville which is else- 
where described. The ancient inhabit- 
ants, the builders of the mounds, appear 
to have made this part of the Scioto val- 
ley one of their most favorite abodes, as 
the remains of their works are abun- 
dant. For a most authentic and com- 
plete description of these, the reader is 



referred to the first number of the Trans- 
actions of the Smithsonian Institute, 
now in the press, which contains a me- 
moir by Messrs. Davis and Squier, by 
whom many of the works in Ohio have 
been recently and carefully surveyed 
and excavated. 

Lancaster is the county seat of 
Fairfield county, and is situated on a 
beautiful and fertile valley, on the 
Hockhocking river and canal, and on 
the Zanesville and Chillicothe turnpike. 
It is twenty-eight miles southeast of 
Columbus, and is a very flourishing 
town. It has seven churches, each one 
belonging to a different denomination. 
In 1840, it numbered 2,120 inhabitants, 
and has since then rapidly increased. 

The land upon which this town now 
stands, was, when first known to the 
settlers of Marietta, in the possession 
of the Wyandot Indians. Their princi- 
pal town occupied a large part of the 
tract on which Lancaster has since been 
built. It is said that, in 1790, this town 
contained five hundred inhabitants, and a 
hundred wigwams. Its name, which was 
Tarhe, or, in English, Crane town, was 
named after the principal chief of the 
tribe. Near the fourth lock on the 
Hockhocking canal, and not far from the 
junction of a beautiful spring with the 
Hockhocking river, the hut of this chief 
stood. It was formed of the bark of 
trees set on poles, with one square 
opening, large enough to admit a man. 
At this time the tribe numbered five 
hundred warriors. In 1795, the territory 
was ceded by them to the United States, 
in the treaty of Greenville ; after which 
the larger number removed with their 
chief, to Upper Sandusky. 

In 1797, a communication having been 
opened with the eastern states, by what 
was called Zane's trace, many who 
were probably desirous of improving 
their condition in life, removed to this 
spot, where, finding everything they 
could wish to make them comfortable, 
they determined to fix their abode. 
Captain Hunter, who in 1798, settled 
on the bank of the prairie, about one 
hundred and fifty yards noi'thwest of 
the present turnpike, is considei'ed as 
the founder of Fairfield county. 



510 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



April 30th, 1803, Franklin was formed 
from Ross, and named from Benjamin 
Franklin. The land is generally level, 
and the prevailing character of the soil 
is clay, and is very well adapted to gra- 
zing, more so than to the cultivation of 
grain, though on the water-courses, which 
are very numerous, there are many 
well-cultivated and flourishing farms. 
The staple productions ai'e potatoes, 
hay, oats, corn, wheat, pork, and wool. 
In 1820, the population of Franklin was 
numbered at 10,300, and in 1840, it had 
increased to 24,880; in 1850, 43,000. 

This tract of country was once occu- 
pied by the Wyandot Indians, who cul- 
tivated the river bottoms and raised ex- 
tensive fields of corn, opposite their 
town, which stood where the city of Co- 
lumbus now stands. 

In the year 1780, a party of whites 
pursued some Indians from the mouth 
of the Kanawha river, and overtook them 
near Columbus, gave them battle, and 
overcame them. During the fight, two 
squaws were observed to hide them- 
selves in a hollow tree ; after the skir- 
mish was over they were drawn out, and 
carried captives to Virginia. As lately 
as 1845, this tree was standing on the 
west bank of ths Scioto river. 

An old Wyandot chief, named Leather- 
lips, was executed in this county, in 
1810, on a charge of witchcraft. 

Coshocton, the capital of Coshocton 
county, has a fine situation on Muskin- 
gum river, at the junction of the Tusca- 
rawas and Walhonding, eighty-three 
miles northeast of Columbus, and thirty 
from Zanesville. The buildings are much 
scattered over a fine piece of ground 
lying in four terraces, each rising about 
nine feet above that below it, and the 
upper being one thousand feet in 
breadth. The public square is sixty 
rods from the Muskingum, and contains 
four acres, planted with trees, and con- 
taining the county buildings. 

This town was laid out in 1802, by 
Ebenezer Buckingham and John Mat- 
thews, having been first settled a few 
years previously. It contains four 
churches, two printing-offices, one wool- 
len factory, and a flour-mill, and in 
1850 had 800 inhabitants. Steamboats 



occasionally come up to this place at 
high water. 

RoscoE stands opposite Coshocton, 
on the west bank of the Muskingum, and 
is connected with it by abridge. It was 
laid off" in 1816, with the name of Cal- 
dersburg by James C alder. The Wal- 
honding canal extends from this place to 
R(jchester, twenty-five miles distant. 
Roscoe is a great depot for wheat, and 
has abundant water-power, supplied by 
the canal. 

The following villages are in this 
vicinity : East Union, West Carlisle, 
Newcastle, Rochester, West Bed- 
ford, Keene, New Bedford, Evans- 
RURGH, Birmingham, Chili, Jacobsport, 
Lewisville, Plainfield, Van Buren, 
and Warsaw. 

BucYRUS, the capital of Crawford 
county, was laid out in 1822, by the 
first settler, Samuel Norton, who came 
from Pennsylvania in 1819. The coun- 
try then abounded in wild animals. 

Massillon. — This village is situated 
on the left bank of the Tuscarawas riv- 
er, and on the route of the Ohio canal. 
The public buildings are a bank and 
seven cliurches, and the population is 
about 2,000. 

Granville, six miles from Newark, 
has a college of the same name, sit- 
uated at the distance of a mile. It was 
founded in 1832, and has four profes- 
sors, twenty-five students, and a libraiy 
of about three thousand volumes. The 
commencement is held on the second 
Wednesday in August. 

Newark, stands at the confluence of 
the three branches of Licking river, and 
on the line of the Ohio canal, and also 
on that of the railroad from Sandusky 
city to Columbus. A branch of the 
latter it is intended to construct from 
this point to Zanesville. The public 
square is the most spacious and elegant 
in the state. The town was laid out in 
1801, on the plan of Newark, New Jer- 
sey, by General William C. Schenk, 
George W. Burnet, and John M. Cum- 
miiigs, who were proprietors of this 
military section, embracing four thou- 
sand acres. The first house of hewed 
logs was erected in 1802, and the first 
regular church edifice was built in 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



511 



1817, by a presbyterian congregation, 
both on the public square. There are now 
nine churches, three newspapers, two 
grist-mills, one foundry, and a woollen 
factory, and the population in 1850 was 
4,000. 

Dayton. — This town is the capital 
of Montgomery county, and is situated 
on the east side of Great Miami river, at 
the mouth of Mad river, and one mile 
below the southwest branch. The dis- 
tance from Columbus is sixty-seven 
miles west, from Cincinnati fifty-two, 
and one hundred and ten from Indian- 
apolis. It was proposed to build a 
town here as early as 1788, by the name 
of Venice, the land lying within the con- 
tract of John Cleves Symmes : but the 
project failed in consequence of the 
revolutionary war. In 1795, soon after 
Wayne's treaty, a company purchased 
the land of Mr. Symmes, and the town 
was laid out on the 14th of November 
of that year. It was named after Gen- 
eral Jonathan Dayton, Springfield, New 
Jersey, the leader of the enterprise. The 
first nineteen settlers arrived on the 
1st of April of the year following. Some 
of the settlers were afterward obliged 
to purchase titles from the government, 
in consequence of the inability of 
Symmes to fulfil his contract. The 
Miami canal, commenced in 1827, which 
has been of great benefit to the town. 
Both the town and the country stood 
the second in the state, in point of taxa- 
ble property, in 1846. 

The first canal-boat from Cincinnati 
arrived at Dayton on the 25th of Janu- 
ary, 1829, and the first from Lake Erie 
on June 24, 1845. The first line of 
stage-coaches from Cincinnati to Co- 
lumbus, weekly, was established in 1825, 
and were two days on the way. There 
are now three daily lines. 

Urbana, forty-two miles west-north- 
west from Columbus, is the capital of 
Champaign county, and was laid out in 
1805, by Colonel Willhim Ward, who 
gave lot§ for public buildings. The 
first church was of logs, and built by 
methodists in 1807. 

Some handsome houses are now built 
in the environs of the town, which con- 
tains four churches, two prinling-ofHces, 



one woollen factory, one iron foundry, 
and two machine shops. In 1850, the 
number of inhabitants was 2,000. 

Batavia, the capital of Clermont 
county, is twenty-one miles east from 
Cincinnati, and one hundred and three 
southwest of Columbus, on the north 
bank of the east fork of Little Miami 
river. It was laid out about the year 
1820, by George Ely, and made the 
county seat in 1824. It contains two 
churches, and two printing-offices, and 
had, in 1850, 800 inhabitants. 

Williamsburg, seven miles east of 
Batavia, stands on the east branch of 
the Miami, and is a pleasant village. 

There are several other small towns 
in Clermont county : New Richmond, 
Moscow, Point Pleasant, Neville, 
and Chilo, all on the Ohio river: also 
Bethel, Felicity, and Milford. 

Wilmington. — This is the capital of 
Clinton county, and a village belonging 
to the township of Union. It stands on 
Todd's fork, and is seventy-two miles 
southwest from Columbus, on a tract 
of undulated ground. It contains five 
churches, a printing-office, a high-school, 
and about 1,500 inhabitants. It was 
settled chiefly by families from North 
Carolina, and the first church was built 
by baptists. 

The following villages are in this 
neighborhood : Clarkesville, nine 
miles southwest of Wilmington ; Mar- 
tinsville, nine miles south ; Port Wil- 
liam, nine miles north ; New Vienna, 
eleven miles southeast ; and Burling- 
ton, eleven miles northwest. Sabina, 
Sligo, Blanciiester, Cuba, Lewis- 
ville, Westboro', Centreville, and 
Morrisville, are small. 

Clinton County was organized in 
1810, and named after Governor George 
Clinton, of New York, vice-president 
of the United States. It has a level 
surface, and a rich soil, well adapted 
to grass and corn, with some prairie 
land. The streams afford a good sup- 
ply of water-power. The chief produc- 
tions are corn, oats, wheat, wool, and 
pork. The population, in 1850, was 
18,837, or fiity to a square mile. It 
was first settled in about 1803, chiefly 
by people from Kentucky, Pennsylva- 



512 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



nia, and North Carolina. William 
Smally was the first white inhabitant, 
in 1797. 

Springfield, forty-three miles west of 
Columbus, is the county town of Clarke 
county. It stands on the national road, 
and the river road from Cincinnati to 
Sandusky City passes through it. It was 
laid out in 1803, by James Demint, and 
is remarkably beautiful and advanta- 
geously situated. The adjacent region 
is fertile and picturesque, and the peo- 
ple are very intelligent and moral ; so 
that it is one of the most agreeable pla- 
ces for residence in the state. The east 
fork of Mad river, which borders it on 
the noi'th, is an excellent mill-stream, 
never failing in the driest seasons. The 
Lagonda, or Buck creek, flows through 
the town, which also affords good water- 
power; and there are more than twenty 
mill-seats within three miles of Spring- 
field. 

The main street is broad and fine, 
being ornamented with the courthouse, 
a church, and the academy. The high- 
school is flouT'ishing, and under the di- 
rection of the Methodist conference of 
Ohio. There is a lyceum, which has 
existed about fifteen years ; and the pub- 
lic libraries contain about four thousand 
volumes. There are nine churches, two 
printing-offices, and a variety of manu- 
factories. The population is about 6,000. 

Wittemherg College, situated half a 
mile from Springfield, has twenty-four 
acres of fine grounds, and stands in the 
midst of beautiful scenery. It is a Lu- 
theran institution, and is organized on a 
broad plan, with collegiate and theo- 
logical departments, and provision for 
six professorships. It commenced op- 
erations in 1846, with about seventy 
students. 

Xenia. — This town, the capital of 
Greene county, is situated sixty-four 
miles north of Cincinnati, and sixty-one 
from Columbus, and has broad streets 
with fine houses, and considerable ad- 
vantages for business. It was laid out 
in 1803, on land belonging to John 
Paul, who gave a large square for pub- 
lic buildings. The first cabin was 
erected the next year, by John Mar- 
shall, in the southwest corner of the 



town. The first meeting of the grand 
jury was held October 3, 1804, under 
a sugar-tree. 

Zenia now contains eight churches, 
a bank, a classical academy, two news- 
paper printing-offices, and about 4,000 
inhabitants. 

Sidney, the capital of Shelby county, 
was laid out so recently as 1819, on the 
farm of Charles Starrett, on a piece of 
table-land, on the west side of Miami 
river. The court was held there the 
following year, and the first frame build- 
ing was erected in 1820. The first 
newspaper was printed in 1836. The 
courthouse stands on a fine square in 
the centre of the town, and the number 
of churches is five. There are three 
flour and four saw-mills, and two carding 
and fulling-mills. The population prob- 
ably now amounts to about 2,000. 

Van Buren, a township in Shelby 
county, is remarkable for containing a 
large and prosperous settlement of col- 
ored people, numbering about four hun- 
dred. The land is not well situated, 
being low and wet ; but the inhabitants 
are industrious, moral, and careful for 
the education of their children, being 
as prosperous as their white neighbors. 
They have also churches of their own. 
In 1846, the slaves emancipated by the 
will of the celebrated John Randolph, 
came to this place, and attempted to 
settle permanently, after they had been 
driven from Mercer county, but the 
white neighbors drove them off by vio- 
lence, and compelled them to scatter 
about the country. 

Port Jefferson, five miles northeast 
of Sidney, stands at the head of the 
feeder supplied by Miami river to the 
Miami canal, a distance of thirteen 
miles. It contains about fifty houses, 
two churches, &c. 

The following villages are in this vi- 
cinity : Hardin, five miles west of Sid- 
ney ; Neavport, twelve miles west ; 
Berlin, sixteen miles west-northwest; 
Houston, eleven miles west-sguthwest ; 
LocKPORT, eight miles south ; and Pal- 
estine, nine miles east. 

Hamilton, the capital of Butler coun- 
ty, is twenty-two miles north of Cincin- 
nati, stands on the left bank of the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF OHIO. 



513 



n 



Great Miami. It contains seven cliurch- 
es, a flourishing female academy, two 
newspaper printing-offices, three flour- 
mills, three saw-mills, three cotton facto- 
ries, and two machine shops, and liad a 
population of 2,000 in 1850 ; since 
which it has increased considerably, and 
seems destined to be a large manufac- 
turing town. Large hydraulic works 
have been erected, which rank among 
the best west of the Alleganies. The 
water is brought four miles, from the 
Great Miami, by a canal, and is suffi- 
cient for two hundred run of four and a 
half mill-stones. 

Maumke City, the capital of Lucas 
county, is one hundred and twenty-four 
miles northwest from Columbus, and 
eight south of Toledo. It was laid out 
in 1817, in the old reservation of twelve 
miles s(]uare, at the foot of the rapids 
of the Maumee, which was granted to 
the Indians in 1795. The site of the 
town is at the head of navigation oppo- 
site Perrysburg and Fort Meigs, on the 
Wabash and Erie canal. The ground 
is about one hundred feet above the 
Maumee, which here makes a fine, 
broad bend, from which the banks rise 
like a vast amphitheatre, about two 
miles long and one mile wide. A beau- 
tiful island of two hundred acres, and 
several smaller ones, ornament the sur- 
face of the river. 

The French had a ti'ading post a lit- 
tle below the town, as early as the year 
1680, where the English built a fort in 
1794 ; the place was a favorite resort of 
the Indians. The ruins of the latter fort 
still remain. A part of Wayne's battle 
was fought within the limits of this 
town ; and the British erected several 
batteries below the town, in the late 
war, during the siege of Fort Meigs. 
These were taken by storm by Colonel 
Dudley, on the 5th of May, 1813; but 
he was afterward driven back and de- 
feated. 

The Pork Trade of the West.—UoxQ 
than four hundred thousand hogs had 
been packed in Cincinnati, up to the 
month of January, 1848, for the season 
of 1847-'8 — an unprecedented number, 
even for that place. With the excep- 
tion of a very few places, the same rate 



of increase has occurred in the west 
generally. 

The pork packed at Cincinnati comes 
exclusively from Ohio, Kentucky, and 
Indiana. The supplies from all these 
quarters were immense. On one road 
leading to Cincinnati from Indiana, 
about 70,000 hogs crossed the Miami- 
town bridge. There are other bridges 
over the Miami, on roads leading from 
Indiana. . 

For about two months, the passage of 
hogs up the leading streets, from the 
Ohio river, seemed to be almost con- 
stant. So, also, the turnpikes coming in 
from Ohio indicate the same state of 
facts. 

That we may have an idea of the ca- 
pacity of these states to increase the 
number of hogs brought to market, take 
the following statement. The first table 
contains the amount for 1840, the second 
an estimate for 1850. 

1840. Hogs. Corn. 

Ohio, 2,099,746 3.3,668,144 bush. 

Kentucky, 2,310,533 39.847,120 " 
Indiana, 1,623,608 28,155,887 " 



Total, 6,033,887 101,671,131 bush. 

In 1840, then, the farmers of these three 
states had six millions of hogs, and more 
than a hundred millions of bushels of 
corn. They could have fatted two mill- 
ions of those hogs, and sent them to mar- 
ket, on forty millions of bushels of corn. 

1850. Hogs. Com. 

Ohio, 2,500,000 50,000,000 bush. 

Kentucky, 2,500,000 45,000,000 " 
Indiana, 2,000,000 40,000,000 " 



Total, 7,000,000 135,000,000 bush. 

There are in the United States 
30,000,000 of hogs. This is about fif- 
teen times the number usually slaugh- 
tered in the whole country for market 
in one year. Hogs grow upon full size 
in less than two yeai's. It follows, then, 
from these facts, that there must be at 
least five times as many hogs in the 
counti-y \\\atmighthe fatted for market, 
as really are. 

The west being peculiarly adapted to 
the cultivation of Indian com (the best 
food for fattening hogs), renders the rais- 
ing of hogs a very profitable business. 



33 




This state consists of two great 
peninsulas, and presents a form 
and position unlike any other state 
in the Union. It might lie com- 
pared with Maryland and Virginia, 
in respect to the separation of its 
parts by water; but it is different 
from them in lying far in the in- 
terior, and in. having for its prin- 
cipal boundaries the borders of 
three great lakes. It has Lake 
Superior on the north, with its out- 
let and the Saut de Sainte Marie 
on the northeast; Lake Huron on 
the east, with the west end of 
Lake Erie on the southeast, with Lake Clair and the outlet of Huron, Ohio 
and Indiana on the south ; Lake Michigan and Wisconsin on the west. 

The advantages offered to commerce and trade by the natural features of the 
country, and to internal improvements, are equalled only by the agricultural facil- 
ities and mineral wealth of some parts of the territory. There are several good 
harbors along the borders of the lakes and their coves, which also abound with 
fish ; copper mines, of great extent and richness, abound along the shores, on 
Lakes Huron and Superior; and railroads have already been constructed nearly 
across the isthmus of the grand peninsula. 

This grand peninsula is divided into two inclined planes, by a continuation of 
the ridge of land which separates the water of the Wabash and the great Miami 
and Maumee — one of them sloping toward Lake Huron, drained by the rivers 
Raisin, Huron, Erie, Rouge, Huron of St. Clair, Bell, Black, Saginaw, Thunder, 
Chelxjiang, &c. ; and the other sloping toward Lake Michigan, and crossed by 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



515 



the St. Joseph's, Kalamazoo, Grand riv- 
er, and many of smaller size. All the 
rivers have a fall from the table-land. 
The mouths of these streams generally 
afford harbors of different depth and 
size, while few other parts are to be 
found along the shores, although the 
depth of the lakes is sufficient for all the 
purposes of commerce, and canals to 
facilitate the passage, Detroit river, &c., 
will hereafter render commerce still 
more extensive. The whole line of 
coast on the different lakes, including 
the sinuosities, is probably one thousand 
miles. The shores of Superior and Hu- 
ron are much more irregular than those 
of Michigan. Saginaw bay is a gulf, 
sixty miles in length. 

In point of soil, the best part of the 
grand peninsula is in the south, toward 
Ohio and Indiana, the upper portion be- 
ing rather barren. The surface is but 
slightly varied, with a succession of 
oak-openings and rolling country, often 
j spotted with small hollows and ponds 
called cat-holes. 

History. — This state was first visited 
by the French from Canada; and De- 
troit (or "the strait") was founded in 
1670. But it was a small town when 
ceded to the United States by the treaty 
of Paris. It was not before 1796 that 
this country was given up to the United 
States ; it. was formed into, a territory 
in 1805 ; in 1812 was occupied by the 
British troops ; recovered in 1813 by 
General Harrison ; and soon after the 
return of peace, became one of the prin- 
cipal objects of emigration, and was 
greatly favored by the opening of the 
Erie canal. Fort Brady was built- in 
1822, when the settlement of Chippe- 
way county, the noilh part, commenced. 

Population. — In 1820 Michigan con- 
tained only 8,896 inhabitants ; but in 
1830, 28,000; and in 1850, 395,576. 

The following remarks on the soil 
and agriculture of the state, are from a 
recent number of the American Agri- 
culturist : — 

" A considerable portion of the east- 
ern part of Michigan consists of a clay 
soil, and is well adapted to grass and 
grazing. This quality of land extends 
from a point some thirty miles south of 



Detroit, to near Lake Huron on the St. 
Clair river, and for about thirty miles 
in the interior. As we advance west- 
ward, the soil, with more or less excep- 
tion, gradually changes to a gravelly 
or sandy loam, and in some instances 
acquii-es these characteristics to so de- 
cided an extent as seriously to interfere 
with its permanent fertility. This is 
universally true of the large quantities 
of the oak-openings, which so generally 
pervade the interior and western part 
of the state. These lands will bear a 
few good first crops ; but manures must 
follow close upon their heels, or ex- 
haustion and sterility are as certain as 
blighted leaves after autumnal frosts. 
There are some moderately good corn 
lands among this class of soils, and most 
of it excellent for wheat ; but all the 
agricultural vigilance of a long-culti- 
vated country must be generally adopt- 
ed, or diminished crops will soon drive 
the occupants into the uncultivated re- 
gions still farther west. There are many 
exceptions to these remarks, and none 
more so than a considerable part of the 
beautiful valley of the Kalamazoo, whose 
rich and gracefully undulating fields, 
clad with their native burr-oak, give un- 
failing promise of abundant wheat-fields 
for years to come. 

" There are other and extensive por- 
tions of the state, possessing consider- 
able fertility, which yet remain to be 
occupied, and which, in the inevitable 
progress of things, will ei'e long be set- 
tled, and swell the tide of her popula- 
tion and wealth, to a respectable approx- 
imation toward her elder sisters. 

" Sheep husbandry is making consid- 
erable progress in the state, and prom- 
ises soon to furnish no inconsiderable 
proportion of the aggregate of her oc- 
cupation. Depredations from wolves 
seem already to offer no serious impedi- 
ment to this department of the farmer. 

" Wheat is the product of the state, 
and on this the farmers principally rely 
for their available exports. Never did 
their efforts receive a greater reward 
than the present season. The estimate 
of sevei'al judicious citizens is, that the 
crop fully averaged twenty bushels per 
acre over the state. I was informed of 



510 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



a wheat field containing one hundred 
acres, which averaged over forty-five 
bushels per acre, and one measured acre 
of which produced over sixty bushels. 
A cargo of this year's crop from Mich- 
igan averaged one barrel of flour for 
every two hundred and twenty-four 
pounds of wheat." 

Within eight years the population of 
Michigan must have increased at least 
fifty per cent., while its area of land un- 
der cultivation and the amount of its 
annual product have pi'obably more than 
doubled. The export of its great sta- 
ple wheat (either in the berry or in 
flour), from the last crop will more than 
quadruple that from any crop prior to 
1839. Its annual production of corn 
and other grains, of cattle and sheep, of 
wool and the products of the dairy, of 
ashes, &c., is also very considerable ; 
but wheat is the great staple of Mich- 
igan, and will doubtless continue so, 
unless the ravages of the Hessian fly, 
now reported as terrible, shall be per- 
petuated. 

The situation of this state is peculiar. 
Almost surrounded by water, old Mich- 
igan — the grand peninsula — is bounded 
on three sides by the lakes Erie, St. 
Clair, Huron, and Michigan, with the 
sti'aits connecting them, and having In- 
diana on the south. The face of the 
country is remarkably level, and the 
soil mainly of a decided fertility. The 
latter may be said to be naturally di- 
vided into dry and wet prairie, ' tim- 
bered openings' (upland) and a heavy 
pi'oportion of low, flat, wet land, most 
of which will be dry enough when thor- 
oughly cleared and cultivated, but which 
is, as yet, rather swampy — often de- 
cidedly so. All around, on the three 
sides bordering on the lakes and straits, 
there is a belt of flat land, a little ele- 
vated above the water level, and very 
heavily timbered. Inside of this, the 
land gradually rises and becomes gently 
rolling, being divided into " oak-open- 
ings (having two or three dozen small 
and middling oak-trees to the acre, with 
any quantity of oak-bushes and roots, 
and an indifferent show of wild grasses) ; 
" timbered openings" (on which the 
oak-trees are much more, and the bushes 



less numerous) ; and open " prairies," 
or vast natural meadows, with heavy 
belts of forest intersecting and dividin"- 
them, usually on the courses of the 
sti'eams, or on wet marshy ground. The 
prairies, especially all the largest and 
finest, are generally found in the south- 
ern half of the state, and more of them 
west than east of a line drawn through 
its centre. These are pretty easily sub- 
dued and abundantly fertile ; the oak 
lands are " brought to" with more la- 
bor, but also yield largely both wheat 
and coi'n. 

Aside from its general depth and fer- 
tility, much of the soil is strongly im- 
pregnated with lime, which accounts for 
its partiality to wheat. The low and 
luxuriously timbered lands (usually with 
elm, cucumber, basswood, &c.) have not 
to any great extent been cleared as yet, 
being most stubborn and least inviting; 
but here also the soil in the main is 
strong. Yet even Detroit appears to 
be closely hemmed in to landward by 
the primitive forest, which still covers 
probably five sixths of the nearest hun- 
dred square miles. 

On the west side of the state, es- 
pecially around Saginaw bay, there are 
extensive forests of choice pine ; and 
far in the North is a great abundance of 
poor land — extensive sterile swamps and 
marshes, checkered by barren knolls 
and hillocks.*^ But nobody thinks of set- 
tling in that bleak, forlorn region, and 
the great portion of the soil north of a 
line drawn through the centre of the 
state is good, as nearly all south of that 
line is. Very few states exceed this in 
agricultural capacity, either in the ag- 
gregate, or acre to acre. 

The absence of mountains or any- 
thing like them through the greater part 
of the state, is by no means an unmin- 
gled good. It is the cause of a palpable 
deficiency of springs andrunningstrearas 
through the better portion of the state, 
and of a decided deficiency of navigable 
waters within the state, though it is so 
nobly provided with them externally. 
But this again is compensated to a great 
extent by the signal facilities everywhere 
presented for the construction of canals 
and railroads, especially the latter. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



517 



Thus tempted, the state undertook, 
about the year 1836, the coustruction 
of three lines of railroad across the pen- 
iiisula — the central, stretching hence to 
Lake Michigan near the mouth of the 
St. Joseph ; the southern, from the Mau- 
rnee near Toledo due westward; and 
the northern. On the two former a very 
considerable beginning had been made 
when the state fell into pecuniary em- 
barrassments, in part owing to the mag- 
nitude of her undertaking, and somewhat 
to a change in the times. The southern 
road was arrested ; the central road 
was feebly and haltingly prosecuted, fed 
by the sale of state lands and the issue 
of treasury warrants, which sold at a 
ruinous depreciation ; and of the rev- 
enue accruing on the completed portion 
of the road or roads, nearly all was ab- 
sorbed. Such was the condition of these 
works when, more than a year since, the 
state decided to offer the central road, 
just as it stood, for sale for two millions 
of dollars of her acknowledged debt, 
which then was worth in the market 
something less than one million dollars. 
The offer was accepted by a club of 
Bostonians, the payment made, the road 
transferred, and instantly placed under 
very different management. The re- 
ceipts of the completed portion rapidly 
increased, expenses were curtailed, and 
the work on the unfinished portion vig- 
orously stimulated, payment therefor 
being made promptly and in cash. Al- 
ready the road is in operation to Kala- 
mazoo, more than half way across the 
state, and it is to be entirely completed 
at farthest wit:iin the next year. Al- 
ready the finished portion pays a liberal 
and rapidly increasing profit on its cost 
to the company, whose stock is at a high 
premium, and can rarely be bought at 
all. Already preparations are being 
made for relaying the old track, now 
very imperfect, with a new and im- 
proved rail ; while in the city large pur- 
chases of real estate have been made 
by the company, mainly on the river or 
strait just below the present centre of 
trade, including a water-front of sixteen 
hundred feet, on which a gigantic freight 
and a passenger depot are to be erected, 
while the track of the railroad to its de- 



creed terminus is to occupy, for a con- 
siderable distance, what is now part of 
the river, which is to be filled in for the 
purpose. By this means vessels will 
load and unload directly from the de- 
pot, whereas now there is a necessity 
of carting every barrel and bale some 
two hundred rods, involving serious ex- 
pense and waste. On these works a 
large number of men are now employed 
here. 

The southern railroad (a much ruder 
and less promising work) has been or is 
to be sold for half a million of dollars of 
state liabilities, in order that it likewise 
may be pressed onward to completion. 

The usual time of departure from Buf- 
falo is in the evening. Lake Erie is trav- 
ersed in about twenty-four hours, stop- 
ping at Cleveland and Detroit, Passing 
the beautiful Detroit and St. Clair riv- 
ers, and the wide-spreading and difficult 
flats of the latter, you enter Huron, and 
stretching along an unbroken wilder- 
ness coast for hundreds of miles, pas- 
sing Saginaw bay and the Thunder bay 
islands, reach Mackinaw, the resort of 
all who delight to enjoy a glimpse of its 
solitary loveliness, or to breathe its pure, 
cool, and invigorating atmosphere. This 
(including the time to wood) occupies 
two days and a half. Thence passing 
the straits of Michilimackinac, and the 
Manitou islands, the boat pushes either 
across Lake Michigan to Sheboigan, 
Milwaukie, &c., or passing up Green bay, 
and stopping at, or catching glimpses 
of, its innumerable islands in all their 
greenness and beauty, reaches Navarino. 
Returning through the passage called 
" Death's Door," and again entering 
Lake Michigan, the voyage is pursued 
to Chicago, stopping at Milwaukie, Ra- 
cine, and Southport — the populous and 
rapidly-growing creations of the lake 
commerce and western settlements : thus 
terminating the voyage where nature 
and art combine to fix the seat of a great 
city — now rapidly rising as such, and 
combining in a remarkable degree the 
elements of commerce, business, society, 
and refinement. In short, nothing can 
exceed the upspringing vigor of such 
cities as Buffalo, Milwaukie, Racine, 
and Chicago ; and no one can predict 



518 



DESCRIPTION or THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



perhaps with too glowing a prospective 
the destiny of the mighty region now 
just springing into life and being. 

The voyage to Chicago, via Green 
bay, may be made in five days or less, 
according to the delays at the places 
and points of interest on the route. The 
distance is about 1,350 miles. 

Returning, the excursion may be ex- 
tended, with additional gratification, 
from Mackinac to the Sault St. Marie, 
or even far up into Lake Superior and 
the mineral region. At least the trip to 
Chicago should be taken by all who de- 
sire to understand, not only the breadth 
and scope of these inland waters, and 
the cities on their borders, but the teem- 
ing population — the great and rapidly- 
advancing free states — to which they 
afford the avenues of a commerce and 
intercommunication, already of gigantic 
extent, and the mighty progress of which 
the most sanguine may not fully predict. 

Lake St. Clair.— The St. Clair flats 
are formed by the division of the waters 
which issue fiom Lake Huron through 
the St. Clair river, by two or three low 
marshy islands, forming three or four 
channels or branches, within and just 
below which division the water, being 
wide, has in some places a depth of 
only six or eight feet, or something less 
than a steamboat will draw, if built 
stanch enough for the lake trade and 
tolerably loaded. Of course they gen- 
erally get aground, and, there being no 
tide in the lakes, have no choice but to 
remain aground until a good part of their 
freight can be transferred to flatboats 
termed " lighters," which are on hand, 
ready to be serviceable for a considera- 
tion. Fifty thousand dollars well ap- 
plied here would dredge out a deep and 
wide channel, and the current is so very 
gentle that it would not move the sand 
back again. Yet for want of this fifty 
thousand dollars (vetoed in the harbor 
bill), the farmers, whose produce, and 
the emigrants, whose families, as well as 
the merchant, whose goods, must trav- 
erse the lakes — are put to an expense, 
including that of delays, probably not 
less in one year than the entire cost of 
dredo:insr out a clear and durable chan- 
nel. Such is one of the many griev- 



ances which impelled the people of the 
west to ask their fellow-citizens gener- 
ally to meet them in convention at Chi- 
cago, in 1847, to consider the general 
subject of river and harbor improvement. 

The banks of the St. Clair river are 
low and level, generally well wooded, 
except where settlement has driven back 
the forest for a mile or less. The Brit- 
ish side appears highest, driest, and most 
settled. A part of it has been peopled 
by white men for fifty or sixty years — 
as a good part of our bank of the De- 
troit river and Lake St. Clair has for 
even a longer period. The old settlers 
are of French origin, and are wedded 
to old customs ; they are seldom seen 
out of their settlements. The largest 
and most active village on either side 
for a hundred miles above Detroit is 
Newport, in St. Clair county, famed for 
steamboat and ship building. Saginaw, 
a thrifty lumbering village at the bot- 
tom of Saginaw bay, much further up, 
is larger, but far away from the steam- 
boat route to Mackinac or the Sault. 

Detroit. — This city is situated in 
latitude 42° 20' and longitude 6° west 
of Washington, on the shore of Detroit 
river, which is the outlet of Lake Hu- 
ron into Lake St. Clair, which lies mid- 
way between it and Lake Erie. The 
river is above a mile in breadth, and 
divided into channels by Peach island, 
and below by Grand Turkey island. 

The tovvn stands on an inclined plane, 
rising thirty feet ; most of the streets 
ai'e regularly laid out at right angles, 
but obliquely to the bank of the river; 
there are several fine, broad avenues, 
and the situation for trade is highly ad- 
vantageous. It contains the old state- 
house, city-hall, a markethouse, eleven 
churches, four banks, masonic-hall, a 
land-office, two orphan-asylums, three 
female academies, several literary soci- 
eties, and twenty-five thousand inhabit- 
ants. The first steamboat arrived here 
in 1818. 

The growth of this city has taken 
the healthy form of expansion in every 
landward direction, instead of the too 
common mode of accommodating an in- 
creasing population by filling up the 
inte^-stices between old houses with new 



520 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



ones, and putting one on the top of 
another. Nearly all the dwellings stand 
healthfully apart, and each surrounded 
by its little garden or grass and flower 
plat, evincing a fondness for shrubbery 
and the minor poetry of nature. Many 
of the streets are thickly set with rows 
of young maples, in some instances two 
rows on one side of a wide avenue, 
which will in a few years add greatly to 
the beauty and comfort of Detroit, es- 
pecially of its favorite promenades. All 
around are signs of gi-owth and pros- 
perity, to which the development of the 
mineral wealth of the Lake Superior 
region has already, though in its infancy, 
given some impetus, and is destined to 
give far moi'e. The only counterpoise 
to this is the removal, last winter, of 
the state government to a township in 
Ingham county, named Lansing, seventy 
miles northwest of Detroit, wherein is 
the confluence of the Red Cedar creek 
with Grand river, which latter, how- 
ever, does not become navigable until 
far below this. The location on a cor- 
ner of a county, in a township as yet 
mainly in primitive wilderness, remote 
from natural or artificial, preseiit or 
prospective facilities of travel and trans- 
portation, created much surprise at first. 
Yet the site is pretty central to the 
whole state, not specially objectionable 
on any ground, and the selection seems 
at present to be pretty generally acqui- 
esced in. 

Agents transport flour hence by way 
of the Welland canal. Lake Ontario, the 
St. Lawrence to Montreal, the railroad, 
Lake Champlain and the Champlain 
canal, to Albany and New York, for the 
present charge from Buffalo to New 
York. 

Monroe is on the right bank of the 
river Raisin, two and a half miles from 
its mouth and Lake Erie, and thirty- 
seven miles from Detroit. It has two 
banks, a land-office, a courthouse, seven 
churches, two academies, a reading- 
room and library of fifteen hundred vol- 
umes, and a number of manufactories. 
The number of inhabitants is about 
5,000. Cars set off" every day for Hills- 
dale, through Adrian ; and stage-coaches 
daily for Detroit, and for Toledo, Ohio. 



A branch of the university of Michi- 
gan is established in Monroe. 

Marshall, on Kalamazoo river, at the 
mouth of Rice creek, is one hundred 
and thirteen miles west of Detroit. It 
contains a bank, four churches, an acad- 
emy, and a number of mills and manu- 
factories, with about 4,000 inhabitants. 
Cars start daily for Detroit and Kalama- 
zoo. 

Kalamazoo. — This town is situated 
on the left bank of the river of the same 
name, at the distance of one hundred 
and forty -six miles west fz'om Detroit, 
with which it has a daily communica- 
tion by the railroad. There are three 
churches, a land-office, a courthouse, and 
a branch of the university. 

St. Joseph's is two hundred miles 
west of Detroit, on the bank of the river 
of that name, at its mouth in Lake Erie. 
A part of the town looks out upon the 
lake, where is a good harbor. It is a 
place of increasing importance, and con- 
tains a courthouse, three churches, a 
bank, and a population of about 900. It 
has daily communication with Chicago 
by steamboat, and stages run to the De- 
troit railroad; and stage-coaches run to 
Chicago through " Michigan city." 

Mackinac. — This town is situated on 
the southeast extremity of Mackinac 
island. The public buildings are the 
courthouse, two churches, a school of 
the American board of commissioners 
f )r foreign missions, a Roman catholic 
missionary school, and a bi-anch of the 
university. It has over 1,000 inhabitants. 
The harbor is large enough for one hun- 
dred and fifty vessels, and a valuable 
fishery is carried on, which supplies 
a considerable export trade, above three 
thousand barrels of white-fish and trout 
being sent out annually. A considera- 
ble amount of business is annually done 
in the fur trade. 

Mackinac consists of three slight 
wooden piers, a water street and a back 
street, with perhaps sixty houses on 
both. The fort stands to the right of 
the village, on the brow of the eminence, 
is built of a porous, shelly limestone, 
and has a tolerable command of the 
main passage out of Lake Michigan into 
Lake Huron; but it happens to be it- 



522 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



self commanded by a higher eminence, 
a mile west of it, which the British si- 
lently seized and fortified at the out- 
bi-eak of the war of 1812, placing guns 
there in battery and summoning our 
commandant to surrender before he sus- 
pected even that war was declared. 

Mackinac has a commanding view of 
Lakes Michigan and Huron, with the 
surrounding isles, headlands and bays. 
The air is very pure, and there is some 
timber, but it is mainly covered with 
low, shrub-like evergreens — fir, spruce, 
&c. It is among the coldest spots with- 
in the limits of our Union. The apple- 
tree blossoms, but does not bear there, 
any more than at the Sault. 

The soil is mostly gravelly and rock 
of a limestone nature. In traversing 
the island, which is about ten miles 
in circumference, we find but three farms, 
and they not much laid under cultivation. 
Farming, however, must be profitable ; 
a ready market being at hand in the 
village, which now contains by estima- 
tion not far from 1,000 inhabitants, who 
are mostly engaged in fishing. 

The village, within the past five years, 
has begun to wear a greatly improved 
appearance, several good buildings hav- 
ing been erected, which are neatly 
painted, and several new ones now go- 
ing up. All the upper lake steamers 
and sail craft stop at the wharf for an 
hour or two to wood. 

Usually there are a number of Indi- 
ans visiting the village from the main 
shores. They come in their bark ca- 
noes, freighting poles, bark, and matting, 
for a temporary wigwam. They pitch 
their tent on the beach during their stay, 
and are gazed at most intently by the 
passengers. Apparently they are all 
happy. Songs and laughter emanate 
from them in the evening, echoing over 
the broad expanse of waters. Many of 
the " curiosity" wares are made by the 
squaws, and bartered with the merchants 
for provisions. The sales of these curi- 
osities to strangers can not be less than 
S15,000 annually. 

The imports of the place are now es- 
timated at $150,000 annually. The ex- 
ports for a great number of years have 
been mostly furs. This trade declining. 



fish has taken their place. The mer- 
chants are interested in the business — 
all of them more or less. But few of 
them, however, are engaged in catching 
them. They generally sell or let nets, 
furnish barrels and salt, and then pur- 
chase of the fishermen after they are 
packed. 

FISH PACKED AT MACKINAC AND VICINITY. 



^ear. 


White-Fish. 


Trout. 


Total. 




bids. 


bbls. 


bhls. 


1835 


1,200 


— 


1,700 


1837 


— 


— 


1,600 


1840 


3,250 


750 


4,000 


1841 


4,500 


500 


5,000 


1842 


6,275 


1,425 


7,700 


1843 


9,S00 


2,110 


11,910 


1844 


12,200 


3,575 


15,775 


1845 


15,150 


4,270 


19,420 


1846 


16,000 


4,000 


20,000 



These fish were packed and shipped 
from this place, and were taken at St. 
Croix, Grande Traverse, Little Traverse, 
L'Ai'bre Croche, and fishing grounds ad- 
joining. It will be seen that the trade 
is flourishing, and in a little over ten 
years has increased from 1,700 barrels 
to 20,000. 

The fishing, however, on the upper 
lakes, is not confined to this place and 
vicinity. Other points on Lakes Huron 
and Michigan are profiting by it. We 
append the statistics of the business at 

SAULT ST. MAKIE AND LAKE SUPERIOR. 



Year. 


White Fish. 


Trout. 


Totd.. 




bbls. 


bbls. 


bbls 


1835 


— 


— 


2,301) 


1837 


— 


— 


6,100 


1840 


8,000 


4,000 


12,000 


1841 


7,000 


3,000 


10,000 


1842 


7,500 


3.000 


10,500 


1843 


2,500 


500 


3,000 


1845 


2,100 


250 


2,350 


1846 


1,550 


175 


1,725 



During the years 1841 and 1842, the 
American Fur Company met with 
heavy losses in the fish trade on Lake 
Superior, and they abandoned the busi- 
ness. Since then it has been carried on 
by various individuals on a small scale, 
and will not probably regain its former 
flourishing condition until a canal is 
constructed around the falls of St. Marie. 

On the St. Mary's river, in the neigh- 
borhood of St. Joseph's, on the British 
side, the business is carried on largely, 
which troes to the Canada market. The 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



523 



catch is generally from 6,000 to 8,000 
barrels yearly. 

At Beaver island and vicinity, on Lake 
Huron, a large quantity is taken annu- 
ally. A gentleman in the trade is of 
opinion that 10,000 barrels will be 
packed this season. 

At False Presque isle, Thunder bay, 
and vicinity, last season, 12,000 barrels 
were furnished for the Ohio market. 

Of the business at Green bay, Drum- 
mon's island, Three rivers, the Manistee, 
Sheboigan and Racine rivers, Saginaw 
bay, and other grounds, we are without 
particular information. An old fisher- 
man estimates the quantity packed at 
these places last season at 20,000 bar- 
rels. This is considered a low estimate. 

The following is a recapitulation for 
1846, in barrels : Mackinac and vicini- 
ty, 20,000 ; St. Marie and vicinity, 1,725 ; 
Beaver island and vicinity, 10,000 ; 
Presque isle, Thunder bay, &c., 12,000; 
other places on Lakes Huron and Mich- 
igan, 20,000 ; Canada side, estimate, 
15,000 ; total, 78,725. 

In addition to barrelling, at several 
points, large quantities are boxed daily 
in ice and shipped to Chicago, Milwau- 
kie, Detroit, Toledo, Cleveland, and 
Buffalo, on sale. The sales at Macki- 
nac for the consumption of steamers 
passing, is no small item. It amounts 
to not far from one hundred dollars' 
worth per week. The whole catch of 
all the lakes may, therefore, be safely 
estimated at 100,000 barrels. When an 
access to Lake Superior is easy by 
canal, that almost unexplored lake will 
annually furnish an equal quantity. 

The number of bairels required gives 
employment to at least three to four 
hundi-ed persons in their construction. 
The salt consumed is an item of conse- 
quence to commerce, and the freight is 
worthy of note. The business may now 
be considered at half a million of dol- 
lars per year. A canal completed at the 
Sault would swell it in five years to a 
million. 

Ann Arbor is situated on both sides 
of Huron river, fnty miles west of De- 
troit, with which it has daily communi- 
cation by the railroad, and also with 
Kalamazoo. It is divided into the up- 



per and lower town by the river, and 
the elevated ground which it occuj)ies 
makes the situation a fine one. It con- 
tains a bank, courthouse, six churches, 
and a number of manufactories, with 
about 3,500 inhabitants. 

The University of Michigan, situated 
here, was founded in 1837, and has 
three professors, about eighty students, 
and libraries containing about five thou- 
sand volumes. The cabinets contain 
valuable collections made by the state 
naturalists. 

Ypsilanti. — This town also stands 
on Huron river, which furnishes valua- 
ble water-power at this place. Here 
are several mills and manufactories, four 
churches, and about 2,500 inhabitants. 
Railroads afford daily communication 
with Detroit and Kalamazoo. 

Jackson stands on the right bank of 
Grand river, seventy-nine miles west of 
Detroit, and contains about 3,000 in- 
habitants. The public buildings are a 
courthouse, four churches, an academy, 
and the state penitentiary, with a branch 
of the university. Cars go daily for 
Detroit and Kalamazoo. 

Adrian. — This town is on the right 
bank of Raisin river, at the distance of 
sixty-seven miles from Detroit, and con- 
tains four churches, a courthouse, an 
academy, a number of manufactories, 
mills, &c., and a population of about 
3,500. Railcars go daily to Toledo, 
Hillsdale, and Monroe. 

Saut dc Sainte Mary, or falls of St. 
Mary (familiarly called the Soo) stands 
on high ground on the right bank of St. 
Mary's strait, just below the falls, or 
rapids. Here are Fort Brady, the tra- 
ding-house of the American Fur com- 
pany, three churches, and a courthouse. 
The population is about one thousand. 

The organization of copper compa- 
nies commenced here in 1845, and^^wr- 
ing the past year at least one hundred 
were formed. Many of them are good, 
but not a few of them will prove mere 
bubbles. Those who have commenced 
working on their locations meet with 
great encouragement. Eight hundred 
and ninety-six permits for location have 
been granted by government. The com- 
panies that have actually commenced 



524 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



work, or have left men in charge as set- 
tlers, are entitled to pre-emption, under 
the late law for the sale of the lands. 
Of this class, there are not probably 
more than twenty-five companies, and 
they cover much territory, some of them 
as many as twenty-five permits, or sec- 
tions. Those that hold pre-emptions get 
their lands at two dollars and a half per 
acre ; the others at five dollars. Rising 
of twenty companies have expended 
much money in mining operations — one 
company over one hundred thousand 
dollars, and others from five to fifty thou- 
sand. Of the ultimate success of their 
operations, few who have visited the 
country have any doubt. The enter- 
prise is necessarily attended with heavy 
outlays at the commencement, for ma- 
chinery and mining implements. 

It is but a few years since nearly all 
the iron and lead consumed in this coun- 
try was imported. It was with the ut- 
most difficulty that capitalists could be 
peisuaded to embark in it. The lead 
mines on the Mississippi lay dormant 
for years, for want of confidence in their 
productiveness. The experiment, how- 
ever, of mining it was tried ; and now 
this country exports the article to va- 
rious parts of the world, and the stock- 
holders are amassing a great interest on 
their investments. The copper busi- 
ness is more promising at this time than 
even lead or iron. Many more have 
visited Lake Superior and gone into it. 
The Cliff mine has raised 2,495 tons of 
native copper and vein-stone containing 
copper. A portion of it was sent to 
Boston and Roxbury for smelting. Ac- 
cordin,o- to a statement based upon the 
portion smelted, the amount of pure 
copper is about three hundred tons, at 
four hundred dollars a ton, worth one 
hundred and twenty thousand dollars in 
the aggregate. A shaft has been sunk 
one hundred and sixty feet below the 
bed of Eagle river, and a vein of native 
copper, four feet wide, was found of 
great richness. 

The Eagle Harbor company have 
opened twenty veins containing native 
copper and sulphurets. Native silver 
has been foutid in the copper ores as 
tested by Professor Mather. Two hun- 



dred tons of ore has been raised from 
one vein; forty tons of it was shipped 
to New York last fall, of which the 
Waterbury (Connecticut) brass foundry 
smelted five tons and obtained forty-five 
per cent, of pure copper. An ingot of 
it was rolled there for platers' use with- 
out annealing, which can not be done 
with even English refined cake-coppers. 
A smelting establishment has been erect- 
ed. 

The Northwestern company have sunk 
a shaft to a considerable depth, and a 
large quantity of vein-stone, containing 
copper, has been raised. 

Th^Bohemian company commenced 
exploring their location in 1846. A 
vein of gray sulphuret, of great rich- 
ness, was found. 

Prince's mine raised a considerable 
amount of ore, which has been sent to 
England for analysis. It is supposed 
that it contained much silver. The bed 
is worked vigorously this season. 

A company in New York and Phila- 
delphia have sent a German geologist 
up the country, to erect smelting works 
and a laboratory. There is now a suf- 
ficient ore on the shores of the lake, to 
keep a large establishment at work a 

The Bruce mme begins in or very 
near the St. Mary's river, a little above 
the point at which its name is lost in 
that of Lake Huron, and where its out- 
let winds among and is divided by the 
thousands of islands which chequer the 
north end of that lake. It is on ihe 
British mainland, opposite St. Joseph's 
island, which is also British territory. 
The usual route of steamboats is on the 
other side of this island. 

The course of the vein is north forty- 
five degrees west — neither parallel nor 
at right angles with the river, but about 
halfway between; the principal devel- 
opment has been made sixty rods from 
the water's edge. The average width 
of the whole is over eight feet. It is 
said to grow richer as it descends. 

The ease of quarrying it is wonder- 
ful, and can not be overstated; ten thou- 
sand tons of this ore may be mined and 
placed on a dock at the river side, ready 
for shipment, for less than the cost of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



525 



transporting as much ore already raised 
and dressed from almost any Lake Su- 
perior mine to Saut St. Marie, so as to 
be ready for shipment below. It cer- 
tainly must be a large estimate to make 
the cost of delivering ten thousand tons 
of this ore on shipboard, fifty thousand 
dollars, or five dollars per ton. If the 
ore yield but ten per cent, of copper — 
and it can not be worth less than twenty 
or twenty-five dollars per ton on sliip- 
board — the profit to be made from work- 
ing it may thus be roughly computed. 

Another vein just opened on this lo- 
cation, not fifty rods west of the vein 
just described, is about six feet wide on 
the sui'face. Nearly a mile further west, 
on the same location, is a vein eighteen 
feet wide on the surface, but this is less 
rich than the worked vein. 

The Bruce mines, belonging to the 
" Lake Huron and St. Mary's river com- 
pany," are situated on the north shore 
of Lake Huron, about seventy miles 
below the S"aut, within thirty hours' run 
by steamer from Detroit ; they were 
discovered, during the early part of last 
summer, by an exploring party under 
the direction of Captain Keating, late 
of the Indian department, her Britan- 
nic majesty's service. In addition to 
the location on which they ai'e situated, 
the same company have three others, 
situated either on the shores of Lake 
Huron or on the banks of the St. Ma- 
ry's river, and all below the Saut. The 
Lake Huron and St. Mary's river com- 
pany was first organized in Montreal, 
in the early part of November last, and 
immediately afterward, Captain Keat- 
ing, accompanied by Mr. Arthur Ran- 
kin, of Sandwich, proceeded to the 
island of St. Joseph, whence the latter 
gentleman, accompanied by an expe- 
rienced practical miner, proceeded to 
the location. After spending two days 
in examining the veins, &c., he set out 
in an open boat, for the Saut, on the 
morning of the 20th of November, in 
order to take the steamer Champion on 
her last downward trip for the season, 
having in one day got out a sufiicient 
quantity of ore to fill sixteen barrels, be- 
sides several large blocks, one of which 
weighed six hundred pounds; another 



j weighed about two hundred. Part of 
; the ore was taken to Montreal, and the 
, remainder to New York, whence about a 
ton was sent to Baltimore to be smelted, 
where it was found to contain twenty 
and a half per cent, of pure copper. 
On the 12th of December last. Captain 
Keating, with one regular miner and 
four laborers, commenced operations by 
sinking a shaft in one of the veins on 
the location. 

Lansing. — The new capital of Michi- 
gan is just beginning to assume the ap- 
pearance of a town, and is pleasantly 
situated in the northwest part of Ino-ham 
county, near the confluence of Cedar 
and Grand rivers. Population 2,500. 

Its recent aspect — the smoking heaps 
of wood, the blackened surface of the 
ground, the standing girdlings and board 
shanties — more readily suggest the idea 
of some immigrating colony, than the 
capital of a great sovereign state. 

At first view it seems strange that a 
dense forest, with only here and theie 
an opening, should have been selected 
as the site for the city. But when un- 
derstood, one will not think so. The 
advantages to the state in general by 
the removal of the capital from Detroit, 
will be very great. There it was at 
one side; here it is in the centre of the 
state, and surrounded by a territory, 
which, in point of fertility and all other 
agricultural facilities, is scarcely any- 
where equalled. 

On the river near the town is abun- 
dance of water power. 

The new statehouse is not designed 
for the permanent one, and its plan is 
therefore not very magnificent. The 
spot selected for the site is on a pleas- 
ant elevation above Grand river, The 
foundation of it is laid, fronting on the 
river ninety-seven feet, and sixty deep. 
The basement story is of stone, and 
is designed for ofl[ices, &c. ; the super- 
structure is of two stories, for the two 
houses of the legislature. 

There is no stone on the soil ; but an 
abundance of stone convenient for build- 
ing is found in the river. 

New roads are opened, and settlers 
fast coming in ; and what was formerly 
regarded an obscure by-place, will soon 



526 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



be the point for news and intelligence 
for all this vicinity. A line of stages 
now communicates between this place 
and the railroad at Jackson, and the 
trio from Detroit is easy. 

The Illinois and Michigan Canal ex- 
tends from Chicago, on Lake Michigan, 
to La Salle, at the head of steamboat 
navigation on the Illinois river, a dis- 
tance of one hundred and five miles. 
The canal is constructed the same size 
as the proposed enlargement of the 
Erie canal of New York — the water be- 
ing six feet in depth and sixty feet wide 
at its sui-face. The locks are one hun- 
dred and ten feet long between the gates, 
and eighteen feet wide, admitting the 
passage of boats conveying one hundred 
and fifty tons burden. Upon the ori- 
ginal plan, this canal was to be supplied 
with water drawn from Lake Michigan. 
It is now constructed with the summit 
level raised eight feet above the surface 
of the lake ; and the supply of water is 
obtained, in part, through a feeder about 
seventeen miles long, from the Culmet 
river, and in part by introducing the Des 
Plaines river, which runs a considerable 
distance along the side of the canal, and 
the surface of which is on a level with 
the water in the canal at the summit. 

These two sources will supply, in all 
oi-dinary seasons, a sufficient quantity of 
water for a maximum trade on the ca- 
nal ; but in seasons of extreme drought 
there will be a deficiency of 3,300 cubic 
feet per minute ; and to supply this pe- 
riodical deficiency, two steam-engines of 
one hundred and sixty-three horse power 
each, are in course of erection at the 
junction of the canal with the Chicago 
river, five miles south of the city of Chi- 
cago. The power of these engines is to 
be applied in pai't to cast-iron cylinder- 
pumps of four and a half feet diameter, 
and in part to a wheel with float-boards, 
working in a tight chamber, to raise the 
water from the river (which is here on 
a level with the lake) eight feet in height 
upon the summit level. The surplus 
power, above that which may be re- 
quired to these pumps, &c., as well as 
when the pumps are not required, it is 
proposed to apply to some kind of man- 
ufactures. 



The canal occupies the channel of ihe 
Chicago river for five miles from the 
lake; it then rises by a lock of eitrht 
feet lift, to the summit level ; thence to 
the first lock at the south end of the 
summit, is twenty-seven miles, or three 
miles above Lockport. From this point 
the canal descends along the valleys of 
the Des Plaines and Illinois rivers, by 
fifteen locks, overcoming a fall of one 
hundred and forty feet. At the distance 
of twenty-four miles from Chicago, the 
extensive rock excavation commences, 
and extends nine miles in length, vary- 
ing in depth from four to twenty feet, 
making an average depth of fifteen feet. 
The excavation of this amount of rock 
has cost an immense sum, but by raising 
the summit level eight feet, a very great 
additional amount of rock excavation 
has been avoided. 

On the final completion of the canal, 
the immense piles of rock, which had 
lined the canal banks, became available 
for the people of Chicago to Macadam- 
ize and improve their streets, pave their 
sidewalks, and in brief, for building pur- 
poses generally. 

This canal has very few mechanical 
structures in proportion to its length. 
There are but four aqueducts, and only 
ten stone arch culverts, of eight to twen- 
ty feet span, and two stone dams, one 
across the Des Plaines, and one across 
the Du Page river. The whole of the 
canal has been constructed in the most 
thorough and permanent manner, and 
reflects great credit upon the skill and 
scientific acquirements of the engineer- 
in-chief, William Gooding, Esq. 

One important feature of this canal, 
and of canals in general, over other 
modes of communication, is the water 
power which they create for manufac- 
turing purposes, the effect of which is to 
increase directly the amount of business 
on the canal, by the transportation of 
the raw materials and of the manufac- 
turing products, but it has a further 
effect in its influence upon the more 
speedy settlement of the country, and 
the development of the agricultural and 
mineral resources of the country adja- 
cent to these lines of impi'ovement. 

It is estimated that above the town of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



527 



Joliet there will be eighty-four runs of 
stone, on a fall of sixty feet ; and below 
that place, forty-five runs, on a fall of 
the same amount ; making one hundred 
and twenty-nine runs of stone. This 
quantity of power may be increased by 
using the whole force of the steam pow- 
er, to raise the water eight feet high 
from the Chicago river, and discharging 
this additional quantity of water at the 
south end of the summit level over a fall 
of sixty feet. 

Of course it is impossible, from the 
rapidity with which this western coun- 
try is filling up with inhabitants, and 
not of being able to foresee to what ex- 
tent changes may take place in the pres- 
ent roads and routes for the transporta- 
tion of the great interior commerce of 
the west, to make any definite calcula- 
tions as to the amount of business which 
may bo done on this canal. The follow- 
ing exhibit has been prepared by a per- 
son who is well acquainted with the sub- 
ject. It is intended as an estimate of 
the amount of business and toll on this 
canal for the second year after its com- 
jdetion : — 

Tolls. 
Lumber - 33,472,000 feet. $33,472 
Salt - - 207,700 bbls. 37,386 

Flour - - 400,000 " 60,000 

Wheat - 2,257,000 bush. 100,650 

Sugar, molas's,) 8,625 hhds. 10,781 

and tobacco ) 

Merchandise 38,298 tons. 76,576 

All other articles - - - 45,000 



Total - - - - $364,865 
Sheep. — Grain has been considered 
the principal staple of export. To this 
we may now add wool-growing. As 
early as 1834, the farmers of Macomb 
county gave attention to it — particularly 
in the towns of Shelby, Washington, 
Bruce, and Armada. They led in the 
introduction of sheep into the territory, 
and have continued ever since to in- 
crease their flocks in quality and num- 
ber. The state census of 1837 gave the 
number in that county at 5,365 head, 
which was then over one quarter the 
number in the state ; the whole then 
beinn^but 21,684. 

The United States census taken in 



1840, only three years after, gave the 
number at 89,934. During the years 
of 1840 and 1841, a company of gentle- 
men from Vermont took into the coun- 
ties of Kalamazoo, Van Buren, and Ea- 
ton, over 25,000 head, and left them 
with the farmers on shares. During the 
same years, many of the more thrifty 
farmers sent out to Ohio and obtained 
many thousands, and sold them in the 
western counties. Among others. Rev. 
John D. Pierce was zealously and pa- 
triotically engaged in getting into Cal- 
houn and vicinity the best breeds. Mr. 
Pierce sent east and to Ohio for some 
four or five thousand, which he sold to 
his poorer neighbors, on time sufficient 
for the fleece that could be obtained, 
would enable them to pay. In those 
times, a majonty of our farmers were 
poor, for it took two or three years to 
get a dollar surplus. Most of those to 
whom Mr. Pierce sold, are now large 
growers. The increase since 1840 has 
been almost beyond belief Thousands 
after thousands have been driven from 
other states — western New York send- 
ing her full quota of the best of Meri- 
noes and not a few Saxonies. 

During this time a large number of 
cloth-dressing establishments have been 
erected, and some dozen woollen facto- 
ries, in various parts of the state. The 
largest are at Pontiac, Ypsilanti, Ann 
Arbor, Jackson, and Marshall. The 
wool now manufactured into cloth in 
the state can not be far from 500,000 
pounds, including the home-made flannel. 

The present number of sheep can not 
be estimated at less than 600,000. The 
crop averaging three pounds each, would 
give 1,800,000 pounds. The whole av- 
eraging twenty-four cents to the pound, 
give a total of $432,000. Of this quan- 
tity, say — home consumption 500,000 
pounds; for export 1,100,000 pounds. 

We are borne out in this conclusion 
by the exports of past years, and in- 
crease of sheep. 

The exports were — in 1841, 23,000 
pounds ; in 1844, 256,407 ; in 1845, 
412,081 ; in 1846, from Detroit, 506,103 ; 
from Monroe, 84,424 ; from St. Joseph, 
4,000 ; from Toledo, 124,600 : making a 
total of 716,587 pounds. 



528 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



This season a large number of east- 
ern manufacturers are in market, par- 
ticularly for the coarser kinds, the new 
tariff having done away the duty of five 
per cent, on foreign coarse wools, that cost 
abroad seven cents and under, and made 
a uniform duty of thirty per cent., which 
tends to keep the harsher qualities from 
coming from South America to compete 
with ours. Another branch of manu- 
facture of which wool of the coarser 
qualities is a component part, has sprung 
up at the east — Mousseline de Laine. 
Eight or ten large factories have been 
erected. For years this class of goods 
has been supplied from France and Eng- 
land. One of these establishments at 
Nashua, New Hampshire, will use a 
million of pounds annually. This new 
branch of industry will add five millions 
of pounds to the consumption yearly. 
The Bakewell, English, and South Down 
sheep, having long wool, are preferred, 
as it has to undergo a combing pi'ocess. 

Farmers say it is more profitable to 
raise wool, at present prices, than to 
grow wheat at sixty-two and a half cents 
a bushel. Sheep do not exhaust land, 
but, on the other hand, fertilize it. If it 
can be grown at the east with profit, 
where the very interest on the land is 
more than the purchase of pasturing in 
this state, the west, in a short time, will 
supplant the east in its production en- 
tirely. Since the west has gone into the 
business, mark the increasing quantity 
that has passed through the Erie canal. 

Tift following is a statement of the 
arrival of wool at tide water on the Hud- 
son river, and average price : — 
Year. ' Pounds. Value. Price. 

1840, 2,876,000 $1,150,400 40 cts. 
3,355,000 1,004,554 



1842, 
1843, 

1844, 

1845, 

1846, 

The 



6,216,400 
7,672,300 
9,504,039 
8,866,376 
amount of 



1,678,428 
2,519,474 
2,946,252 
2,571,415 



30 
27 
38 
31 
29 



wool which arrived 



at Buffalo from Michigan, in 1844, was 
256,407 pounds ; in 1845, 412,081 ; and 
in 1846, 716,587. 

Wool has also become an article of 
foreign export, there being no duty on 
it in England. The project was never 
tried till 1844, when about 300,000 



pounds went from Boston and New 
York. The quantity has annually in- 
creased since. 

In almost every village of this state 
there are wool-buyers. In the principal 
ones, eastern manufacturers have agents. 

The Pictured Rocks of Lake Supe- 
rior. — The southern shore of Lake Su- 
perior is distinguished by long ranges 
of inaccessible rocks, which form a hope- 
less obstacle to the unhappy navigator 
diiven before a northerly storm. For 
miles there is not a spot to be found 
where even a canoe can effect a landing, 
or where a man could climb up the lofty 
perpendicular banks, to escape destruc- 
tion. The water is deep quite up to 
the base of the cliffs, and the region is 
shunned, especially in bad weather. 

In some places, however, where a 
small accessible point has been found, 
the Indians formerly made their land- 
ing-places ; and remains of their iiide 
drawings are still traceable upon the 
precipices far upon the shore. One of 
the most remarkable of these is repre- 
sented in the vignette. The cliffs are 
high, bold, and apparently perpendicu- 
lar ; but their faces are marked with 
drawings of different figures, explicable 
only by members of the tribe or nation 
by which they were inscribed, but all 
significant parts of a record capable of 
distinct intei'pretation only by those ac- 
quainted with the secrets of the system. 

The figure of an animal is usually the 
token, or armorial representative, of 
some tribe, family, or individual ; and 
rude drawings of objects are expressive 
of things or actions connected with them. 
By the aid of native interpreters, the in- 
scriptions on some, it is said, have been 
discovered to refer to a great Indian 
military expedition against a nation on 
the north side of the lake, to which the 
pictured rocks of the Mississippi also 
relate. 

The following description of a visit 
to this remarkable spot, by a gentleman 
engaged in surveying the upper penin- 
sula of Michigan, for the United States 
government, will be interesting to the 
reader : — 

" I had passed and repassed the ' Qij-and 
Portal' of the pictured rocks, three dif- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



529 



ferent times, and had once made a sketch 
of it, but it seems I had never ascer- 
tained the extent of its interest. In 
passing it lately, all the circumstances 
being favorable, we determined to enter 
the arch with our boat ; and though our 
mast was only about sixteen to eighteen 
feet high, still the feeling, as we ap- 
proached, was, that we must take it 
down to be able to pass under the apex 
of the arch ; but drawing nearer, the 
mast seemed to shrink, and the arch to 
tower upward, until our sail shook un- 
der a vault one hundred and twenty feet 
high ! So much is the eye deceived by 
a general proportionate grandeur. En- 
tering, we found ample room for a vast 
ship-of-war, with sails all standing, to 
conceal herself, turn round, and come 
out vdthout impediment. Although the 
water is deep for three fourths of the 
way, yet at the far end of the cave there 
is, first, a" pile of huge fallen blocks of 
sandstone ; and, beyond these, a sand- 
beach, fifty to sixty feet wide. Excited 
by a work so magnificent, I determined 
to make it my observatory until I had 
ascertained the form and dimensions as 
accurately as expedition would permit. 
For this purpose, and to enjoy the ro- 
mantic luxury, I resolved on spending 
a night where I need not call upon the 
mountains to hide me. 

" As there was a spice of danger in 
passing a night in this palace of the 
winds and waves, I landed the party 
to encamp on the sands, near the Doric 
rock, and was then transported and led 
in the cave with my nephew and instru- 
ments, the voyagers returning with the 
boat to the encampment. Here we 
were more securely imprisoned than 
Napoleon on St. Helena, the only means 
of escape being to climb over hanging 
rocks two hundred feet high, or swim 
half a mile of the lake, with water so 
cold as to stiffen us in one eighth of that 
distance, and our provisions, a few sticks 
of wood which we brought in the boat, 
and a bucket of bean-soup. But we 
gave oui'seh-es no anxiety, for we had 
too much work to perform. Immediate- 
ly we measured oHr base line for tri- 
angulation, five hundred feet long, all 
within the cave of the great arch. At 



this part of the Pictured Rocks there is 
a table of sandstone about two hundred 
feet high, presenting to the lake a per- 
pendicular wall of waving and angular 
outline for several miles. At the Grand 
Portal, the rock juts out into a short pen- 
insifla by two curves which come up like 
the curves from the shoulders in each 
side of the neck ; at the end it is ab- 
ruptly truncated as if the head had 
been cut off. Into this truncated end 
enters the Grand Portal arch, about one 
hundred and twenty feet high, and, pen- 
trating about three hundred feet, termi- 
nates in two smaller arches. Near the 
far end, a cross arch, opening on each 
side of the neck, traverses the main cav- 
ern. Thus the ground plan, like that 
of ancient cathedrals, is a cross ; in the 
■portal, however, the head of the cross is 
double. We ventured to give names to 
the various apartments : First, the Grand 
Dome opening in the Grand Portal ; 
second and third, the first and second dor- 
mitories ; fourth and fifth, the right and 
left wings of the cross ; sixth, the ves- 
try with columns, groined arches, and 
Gothic windows communicating with the 
right wing ; seventh, the Egyptian laby- 
rinth, consisting of cylindric and groined 
galleries, supported by peculiar columns, 
having a distant resemblance to the 
Egyptian, communicating both with the 
right wing and with the Grand Dome. 
The form of the columns is that of two 
elongated bells, with the two small ends 
joined to form the middle of the shaft; 
or, to detail the figure, it is expanded at 
the top like an inverted bell, contracts 
rapidly as it descends, and by a gradual 
curve becomes nearly cylindric for some 
distance ; and again it contracts on a 
gradual curve till it comes almost to a 
point, where it meets the same figure 
reversed. This form is essentially beau- 
tiful, being a solid generated by rotation 
of Hogarth's sigmoid line of grace. To 
explain the mode of its formation would 
lead to too long a discussion. 

" Our most active and frolicsome half- 
breed voyager had waded the water, 
and, without our perceiving him, had 
entered the labyrinth. To our surprise 
he thrust his head out of a hole in 
the Grand Dome, and uttered a hideous 



34 



530 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



growl. His companions instantly took 
up the drama of the beast in his den, 
and hurled a volley of stones at him. 
Darting back, Legarde presented his 
head at another opening, and defied his 
pursuers with a still fiercer snarl ; in- 
stantly there followed another volley, 
another evasion, and another peal of 
laughter echoed back from the dome, I 
labored hard until dark, and then dis- 
covered a new danger in making it my 
place of rest. I found a great part of 
the cave to be lined with a shell of stone 
loosened by the last winter's frost, and 
ready at all points to fall with crushing 
force. Going back to the farthest re- 
cess of the dormitory arch, I knocked 
off all the loose stones, propped up my 
cot on piles of rocks, and composed my- 
self to sleep, not unmindful, as I lay 
down, that the canopy of my bed was of 
solid stone, two hundred feet thick, with 
a forest of fir-trees on top as the orna- 
mental fringe. About midnight I arose, 
lighted a candle, built a fire, and walked 
forward with my lantern to the farthest 
block of stone. Here I gazed at the 
great star-lighted window presented by 
the portal arch, and as I stood, the po- 
lar star just twinkled on the verge of the 
opening, making the angular altitude 
equal to the latitude of the place. Again 
I lay down in the dormitory and listened 
to the dirge-like music of the ripple, as 
it kissed the rocky fragments and danced 
into the labyrinths. In such situations 
there is often a mirage of sound as won- 
derful as that of sight ; the discords seem 
to be absorbed, and the harmonious 
notes are echoed and reverberated with 
more enchanting spells than belong to 
the ^olian ; commingled with the dirge 
one imagines imitations of cascades, hail, 
rain, and storms. This was the pianis- 
simo ; while the fortissimo would be wit- 
nessed when the northern storm should 
drive the thunder of the great lake 
directly into the Grand Portal. Sup- 
pose this to have happened while I was 
a tenant — it was really what 1 desired. 
An avalanche of rock sufficient to have 
crushed a city, had fallen just outside of 
the left arch, and laid rudely piled to 
the height of fifty feet. Thither would 
I have retreated to witness the bloodless 



battle of the elements ; for a long war 
has been waged between waves and 
rocks, in which the rocks have so far 
been obliged to yield. Morning came, 
and with the dawn myself and nephew 
were at our work of triangulating. Hav- 
ing completed the survey, and obtained 
geological specimens of great interest, 
we returned in the boat which had come 
from the party on shore, in the afternoon. 
" I shall calculate my observations, 
make drawings of ground-plan and ele- 
vations, and include them in my report 
to Dr. Jackson, and through him to the 
government, that, if they are found wor- 
thy of it, they may be published. I 
need hardly say, that such a curiosity, in 
such a climate, deserves a visit from the 
Cincinnatians during the hot months. 
Within half a mile is a boat harbor, a 
fine camping ground ; and still another 
half a mile along the land beach, is the 
Chapel rock, and still nearer, a cascade. 
Beyond this again is a cascade leaping 
the top of the Pictured Rocks clear into 
the lake, and blowing a blast of wind in 
all directions from where it strikes the 
water sufficiently to propel a sail-boat. 
The Grand Portal is less extensive than 
the mammoth cave, being a mere frac- 
tion of it, but it has some compensating 
beauties. It has light and a fine breeze, 
and is at the same time as cool. You 
arrive at all of its beauties without fa- 
tigue, and enjoy, through its three open 
arches, the most extraordinary land- 
scapes. Through the Grand Portal you 
see only the shoreless lake ; through the 
western opening of the cross arch a 
limited but magnificent view of the lake 
and the Pictured Rocks overhanging its 
dark blue waters, on whose surface, 
when calm, those rocks are reflected 
into a symmetrical counterpart of the 
original. Through the eastern wing is 
seen also the lake and the Pictured 
Rocks "dying away in well-marked per- 
spective, as one point sinks behind the 
other, to the distance of ten miles. In 
the course of this perspective is the cas- 
cade of Chappel river, the Chappel 
rock, and the cascade of the winds. This 
cross arch is five hundred feet long, and 
so straight that light is seen through it 
from one side to the other. Mr. School- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN. 



531 



craft passed through it with his hoat : 
hut the lake having fallen about four 
ftet^t is nearly dry, and the only en- 
trance by water is by the Grand Portal." 

The emigration to Michigan is now 
larger than for years past. Every part 
of the peninsula wears a new aspect to 
what it did five years since. The log 
houses have given way to fine brick and 
pine dwellings, omiamentcd with paint, 
and the windows bedecked with blinds 
or tasty curtains. The slab sheds are 
hardly known. Large barns have taken 
their places. Where the wolf prowled 
undisturbed, herds of sheep are seen — 
the bleating of the frolicsome lambs is 
heard, where the doe had full sway. 
You can scarcly ride on any road that 
has been open for five years, that is not 
lined on either side with grain. The 
whole country has the appearance of a 
fifty years' settlement. Enterprise and 
industry are eveiywhere prevalent. 

The advantages that Michigan offers 
to the emigrant, are clearly set forth in 
the following statements : — 

" First. We are surrounded with wa- 
ter communication for hundreds of 
miles, with noble streams that are navi- 
gable, and from its tributary waters into 
the lakes. From the mouth of each the 
canvass wafts the staff of life to the east. 

" Second, We have avenues of art, 
binding with solid iron, as by links, the 
centre and southern counties from one 
extiemity to the other, while the north 
for some distance equally enjoys the 
benefit of iron horses to foi'ward their 
surplus to a shipping point. 

" Third. No state can boast of better 
hydraulic power — the summit level be- 
ing near the centre of the peninsula and 
its never-failing streams diverging to 
several points, as though the hand of an 
engineer had planned their serpentine 
courses to accommodate every county. 
View the lines of all the streams of every 
state in the Union, as laid down on their 
respective maps, and it is unequalled. 

" Fourth. The soil is calculated for 
the production of almost every species 
of culture that could be desired north of 
the tropics. 

" Fifth. Our school and university 
fund exceeds most of our neighbors, for 



land already sold and that remaining is 
mostly of the choicest kind. We have 
our school districts and rapidly-increas- 
ing school libraries, in every direction 
settled. Our state university is already in 
operation, with professors of the rarest 
talent for the higher branches. In point 
of advantages for education, New Eng- 
land or New York are not ahead. In 
point of intelligence, the last census of 
the United States places us ahead of 
nearly every sister state, with two ex- 
ceptions, as having the least number 
who can neither write nor read. 

" Sixth. A majority of our present 
population are mostly from New Eng- 
land and New York. The rapid in- 
crease of our exports exhibit their in- 
dustry. No state in the Union, from the 
organization of the confederacy, has 
made such rapid strides. It is unparal- 
leled in ancient or modern history. 

" Seventh. Our state indebtedness, by 
the sale of state improvements, has been 
reduced. The interest on all acknowl- 
edged bonds will be paid on the first of 
January next, and a tax law has been 
passed to meet it hereafter. 

"Eighth. Our exports exceed our im- 
ports the past year by over a million of 
dollars. 

" Ninth. Our advantages for market- 
ing our surplus products are far supe- 
rior to any and all other states west of 
Buffalo, and they bear a much better price. 

" Tenth. We have two months the ad- 
vantage of our neighbors in the naviga- 
tion of Lake Erie for eastern shipments, 
always at a season when produce bears 
the best prices. In the spring there is 
generally four weeks after the opening 
of the lower lakes, that the straits of 
Mackinac are obstructed with ice, which 
is invaluable either in a rising or falling 
market, and some four weeks afler the 
first of November, when the passage to 
the upper lakes is hazardous, and craft 
going thither are in danger of not being 
able to return until the following spring. 
During all this time, both spring and 
fall, most of the craft make trips from 
Detroit to Buffalo, which throws hun- 
dreds of them in competition for freight, 
and transportation is thereby cheapened 
while it advances at the upper ports." 




This state is bounded on the 
north by Michigan, east by Ohio, 
south by Kentucky, from which it 
is separated by Ohio river, west by 
Illinois, and northwest by Lake 
Michigan. The Ohio forms the 
boundary for 340 miles fiom the 
mouth of the Great Miami to that 
of the Wabash. The entire out- 
ine is 990 miles. The greatest 
length is along the west border, 
272 miles, the main length nearly 
260 miles, the mean breadth 140 
miles, and the area about 36,000 
square miles. It lies between north latitude 37° 50' and 41° 47' and longitude 
7° 48' and 11^ 48' west from Washington. Population, 988,734. 

About five sixths of this state is drained by the Wabash river. In surface it 
is intermediate between Illinois and Ohio, being less monotonous than the for- 
mer, and less hilly than the latter. A range of rough and abrupt hills rises on 
the banks of the Ohio ; but these are formed by the cutting down of the channel, 
while on the opposite side there is only a gentle declivity of the surface toward 
the northwest, where the waters are drained into the Wabash. The White river, 
a minor stream, rises within half a mile of the Ohio, opposite the mouth of the 
Kentucky, at the Great Bend. The region crossed by the branches of this 
stream and by the Wabash is remarkable for the amenity of its surface; beyond 
which extends the wide plain or table-land. Here rise the Tippecanoe and Eel 
rivers, which flow into the Wabash, as well as the Kankakee and Pinkimink, trib- 
utaries of the Illinois ; the Elkhart, Pigeon, and others, flowing into the St. 
Joseph's of Lake Michigan, and the St. Joseph's branch of the Maumee. The 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP INDIANA. 



533 



Wabash, the principal river in the state, 
is five hundred miles long ; and, rising 
in Ohio, flows into Indiana in the north- 
east part, crosses it, and forms the west- 
ern boundary for one hundred and forty 
miles. 

The great western plain commences 
on Lake Erie, between the Maumee 
and Raisin rivers, and extends to the 
junction of the Illinois with the Missis- 
sippi river. It is about four hundred 
miles in length, from northeast-by-east 
to southwest and west, and is chiefly 
prairie. The surface and subsoil abound 
in marine and river shells, and numer- 
ous trees are found imbedded. Prairies 
abound also along AVhite river, and pre- 
sent every variety of these peculiar kinds 
of lands, viz,, the dry, wet, level, rolling, 
barren, and fertile prairie. The rich, 
however, preponderate, and many tracts 
are luxuriant. 

Climate. — That part of the state 
nearest to Lake Michigan is subject to 
copious rains ; and as much of the land 
in that section is low and marshy, a 
considerable portion of it is thus unfit 
for cultivation ; while sandhills, bearing 
small juniper-trees, are numerous in the 
rear. The low tracts have generally 
proved very unhealthy, especially near 
swamps, ponds, and streams ; and fever- 
and-ague has sometimes prevailed ; the 
warmer regions have also suffered from 
the same cause. The rapid increase of 
the population, however, shows that this 
evil has not materially checked the pros- 
perity of the state. 

The winters are mild compared with 
those of New England and even Penn- 
sylvania — as winter lasts only about six 
weeks from the end of December. The 
rivers which are not the most rapid are 
then frozen ; and sometimes even the 
Wabash has been bridged with ice. 
Frequently snow falls in the northern 
parts to the depth of eighteen inches ; 
but in the south it is seldom ever more 
than six .inches. Peach-trees bloom 
early in March, and the forests grow 
green from the 5th of April to the 15th ; 
and, as numerous shrubs put forth their 
flowers before their leaves appear, the 
appearance of the country is delightful 
early in the season. 



The governor is elected by the people, 
for four years, ineligible next term. A 
lieutenant-governor is also chosen in the 
same manner, and for the same term. 
The senate, not to exceed fifty members, 
elected for four years. The representa- 
tives, not to exceed one hundred, chosen 
for two years. Elections are held bien- 
nially. Elections by the people are by 
ballot ; by the assembly which meets 
biennially, viva voce. The judicial pow- 
er is vested in a supi-eme court of from 
three to five members, elected by the 
people, for six years ; in circuit courts, 
the judges of which are elected by the 
people for six years; and in such minor 
courts as the assembly may establish. 
This right of suff^'rage extents to every 
white male citizen, twenty-one years of 
age, six months a resident of the state. 

Literary Institutions. — In this state 
are the following : Indiana university, 
at Bloomington ; Hanover college, at 
South Hanover ; Wabash college, at 
Crawfordsville ; Indiana Ashbury uni- 
versity ; the University of Notre Dame 
du Lac, at South Bend ; Franklin col- 
lege, at Franklin ; and St. Gabriel col- 
lege. The number of academies is six- 
ty, and that of common schools one 
thousand six hundred. 

Indianapolis, the capital of Indiana, 
stands on the west bank of the west 
branch of White river, one hundred and 
twenty-two miles west of Cincinnati. It 
is at the head of steamboat navigation 
on that stream, and is already a large and 
flourishing town, although the spot was 
in the midst of the forest as late as the 
year 1821. The river is crossed by a 
fine bridge. 

The position of the town is near the 
centre of the state, and it enjoys the ad- 
vantages offered by a large river, which 
waters as great a portion of fertile land, 
in proportion to its size, as any other in 
the United States. The surrounding 
country has been settled with great ra- 
pidity ; and the town is laid out with 
much taste, and presents a fine appear- 
ance. Several broad streets meet from 
different points, at a beautiful circular 
public green, situated on a gentle eleva- 
tion, on which conspicuously stands the 
governor's house. Population, 8,000. 



534 



DESCEIPTION OF THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



Capitol of Indiana. — This edifice is 
situated in an open square of the city. 
It is of the robust or ancient Doric or- 
der, and is considered the nearest ap- 
proach to the classical spirit of the 
antique on the western continent. 

The building is eighty feet wide, and 
one bundled and eighty feet long, and 
contains rooms on three floors — a base- 
ment below the level of the portico and 
peribolus, and two stories above. The 
great halls of legislation, chambers of 
the senate and representatives, are on 
the upper floor, which renders them 
lofty in the ceilings, and the committee 
rooms, which are on the first floor, more 
accessible by the free passage from end 
to end of the building, which passage 
could not be admitted were the great 
rooms below. The senate-chamber is 
thirty-six by seventy feet; the hall of 
representatives, forty-eight by seventy, 
or near these dimensions ; and the ro- 
tunda, thirty-six feet, with dome and sky- 
light. The halls are rectangular ob- 
longs on the plan, but have a semi-hemi- 
spherical concavity, or half dome in the 
ceiling, resting on a semicircular colon- 
nade, which forms the " bar of the 
house" (so termed), within which the 
members' seats are placed, all facing in- 
ward, fronting the focal point and speak- 
er's chair. This general arrangement 
i^ favorable to the extension and inflec- 
tion of sound, which, here made sono- 
rous, is yet found free from reverbera- 
tion, distinct and clear. It affords vari- 
ety, with an architectural character to 
the apartment, while the columns con- 
tribute an additional support to the roof. 

As an exhibition of classical architec- 
ture, we have in the capitol of Indiana 
each of the three orders appropriated 
by Greece : the Doric, Ionic, and Co- 
rinthian — the robust, chaste, and mag- 
nificent. In the body of the edifice we 
have a resemblance to the Parthenon of 
Athens ; in the interior, the rich Ionic 
of the Erectheion ; in the dome, the cir- 
cular temple of Vesta, at Tivoli ; and 
the lantern is a model of the Corinthian 
monument of Lysicrates. 

Tlie other public buildings are the 
courthouse, state-prison, deaf and dumb 
asylum, lunatic asylum, a female insti- 



tute, and ten churches. The popula- 
tion amounts to about three thousand. 

Stage-coaches depart daily for Cin- 
cinnati, Wheeling, Columbus, and Zanes- 
ville ; and for several other places there 
times a week. The communication with 
Madison is also daily, being all of the 
way by railroad. 

ViNCENNES, one hundred and fifty 
miles from the mouth of the Wabash, 
is the second western town in point 
of antiquity, having been settled by 
Frenchmen from Canada as early as 
1735, at a time when Kaskaskia was the 
only place inhabited by white men in 
those extensive regions. Here, in the 
midst of a fertile district, and in the 
heart of a wilderness, a small colony re- 
mained, for a long time almost entirely 
excluded from the world, and mingling 
only with the savages, to whose habits 
they in some respects accommodated 
themselves. It was for a time the seat 
of the territorial government. 

The ground is level, regularly laid 
out in squares, and the houses generally 
have fruit gardens attached to them. 
Steamboats come up to the town most 
of the year. The adjacent prairie is 
large and fertile, and five thousand acres 
of it are in common, according to the 
provision of the old French inhabitants. 

During the early part of its history 
the French and Indians carried on a 
predatory warfare against the Kentucki- 
ans and other border settlers. 

New Harmony, fifty-four miles below 
Vincennes, on the east bank of the Wa- 
bash, and over one hundred from its 
mouth, was settled in 1814 by a band of 
eight hundred Germans, of a sect called 
Harmonists, who had previously made 
a settlement in Pennsylvania on Beaver 
creek. They were led by Joseph Rapp, 
and held their pi'operty in common, un- 
der certain strict regulations. They 
formed a large and flourishing village, 
with a large house for public meetings, 
a botanic garden, and green-house. 

About the year 1826, the people bav- 
ins: become somewhat discontented with 
the place, and disposed to return to 
Pennsylvania, sold to the celebrated the- 
orist, Robert Owen, of Lanark, Scot- 
land, who here brought some of his vis- 



536 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



ionary plans to experiment. A com- 
munity was established, who spent the 
sabbath in listening to his discourses, 
and occupied their time in various modes, 
with very little profit to themselves or 
the public. The experiment at length 
failed, and the place may hereafter rise to 
the rank for which nature seems to have 
fitted it, under the management of per- 
sons of better sense and sounder princi- 
ples. 

LoGANSPORT stands on the bank of 
the Wabash, at the mouth of Eel river, 
and each of these streams is crossed by 
a fine bridge. This place enjoys the 
commercial advantages afforded by the 
Wabash and Erie canal, and by the 
water-power obtained from the rivers. 
Manufactories of several kinds are in 
operation. Stage-coaches run three 
times a week to Lafayette and Niles, as 
well as to the capital of the state. 

South Bend, on the bank of Maumee 
river, is well situated for a manufactur- 
ing place, though partly built on a 
lofty bluff. It contains a courthouse, 
four churches, and about 2,000 inhabit- 
ants. 

The Roman Catholic college of N6tre 
Dame du Lac was founded in 1844. 

Michigan City. — This town, at the 
south end of the lake of that name, has 
the only harbor in the state. It was 
laid out in 1835, but is already a consid- 
erable village, of about 2,900 inhabitants, 
with some trade, and a communication 
with Chicago, Niles, and South Bend, 
by stage coaches, ihree times a week. 

Terre Haute. — This town, as its 
French name indicates, occupies an ele- 
vated position. It is on the left bank 
of the Wabash, and seventy-three miles 
west of Indianapolis, where the river is 
crossed by the national road on a fine 
bridge. A courthouse, six churches, a 
market-house, bank, and a seminary, are 
the principal public buildings. The pop- 
ulation is about 4,000. The situation is 
advantageous for trade, and the place is 
flourishing. Stage-coaches go daily to 
Indianapolis, St. Louis Shawneetown, 
and Danville, Illinois. 

Crawfordsville stands on the left 
bank of Rock river, forty five miles dis- 
tant from Indianapolis, and contains 



seven churches, a courthouse, a semina- 
ry, and 4,000 inhabitants. 

Wabash college, which is situated in 
Crawfordsville, was founded in 1835, 
and has four professors, more than one 
hundred students, and about four thou- 
sand five hundred volumes in its libra- 
ries. 

Lafayette. — This town stands at the 
head of steam navigation on the Wa- 
bash, three hundred and ten miles from 
its mouth, by the course of the stream. 
It has seven churches, a courthouse, and 
several other public buildings, with a 
population of about 4,000. The Wabash 
and Erie canal affords a communication 
between this place and Lake Erie. 
Stage-coaches go three times a week to 
Indianapolis and Logansport. 

Indiana occupies an important portion 
of the vast central valley of North Amer- 
ica, drained by the Mississippi and its 
numerous branches, while it touches, at 
its extreme northwest corner, the south 
end of one of the great northern lakes. 
As a large part of the state lies between 
the Ohio and the Wabash, it partakes 
of the general features of the Missis- 
sippi country ; and to Indiana, in com- 
mon with her neighboring sister states, 
the following impressive statements and 
views justly apply : — 

The Peculiar Characteristics of West- 
ern Mind. — Says a late writer : " There 
have been, I apprehend, in no country 
in its early settlement, precisely the el- 
ments in forming the public mind, which 
are found in the western regions of our 
own. The colonies that went out from 
Phoenicia, and that laid the foundations 
of empire on the shores of the Mediter- 
ranean, had ahomogeneousness of char- 
acter, and transferred the principles and 
feelings of the mother-country at once 
to the new lands where they took up 
their abode. The colonies that went 
out from Greece to occupy the maritime 
regions of Asia Minor, carried with them 
the love of the arts, of literature, and of 
liberty, which distinguished Corinth and 
Athens ; and Ionia became merely a re- 
flected image of what Attica and Achaia 
and Argolis had been. The colonies 
which landed on Plymouth rock, and at 
Salem, and Boston, also had an entire 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



537 



homogeneousness of character. There 
was no intermingling of any foreign el- 
ements contemplated or allowed. They 
were, when they landed, and when they 
laid the foundation of Harvard univer- 
sity, and when they spread over New 
England, what they were in Holland 
and in England, with only the modifica- 
tions which their new circumstances 
made, but with none from any foreign 
admixtures. 

" When we turn our eyes, however, 
to the great west, we discern an entirely 
different state of things. There is no 
homogeneousness of character, of ori- 
gin, of aim, of language. There are 
elements already mingled and struggling 
for the mastery, any one of which, if 
alone, would have vital and expansive 
power enough to diffuse itself all over 
that great valley. 

" There is a large infusion of the 
puritan mind. 

" There is a large infusion there of a 
foreign mind, with little homogeneous- 
ness of character or of views, except in 
the single reason which has precipitated 
it on our western shores. There are 
different languages ; different manners 
and customs ; different modes of faith 
and worship. It is alike in this, that it 
is a foreign mind, little acquainted with 
our institutions ; bred up mostly under 
a monarchical government; restrained 
j at home less by an intelligent public sen- 
timent than by the bayonet ; tenacious in 
most instances of the religion in which 
it was trained ; and having, to a large 
extent, little sympathy with the princi- 
ples and the achievements of protestant- 
ism. There is at the west, as a conse- 
quence of this, a great intermingling 
of those minds which are likely to be 
most adventurous, energetic, and bold. 
In the vast valley there are representa- 
tives from nearly all the nations of Eu- 
rope, and all the forms of religion which 
prevail there. Ireland, and France, and 
England, and Germany, and Italy, have 
their representatives there ; and they 
appear there, not as amalgamated with 
our republican and protestant institu- 
tions, but as still imbodying the senti- 
ments which they cherished in their 
native land. 



" A second characteristic of the west- 
ern mind, as it is now, is, that it is as yet 
unsettled. A demagogue, a propagator 
of error, a rejector of religion, here, 
must begin his work by a covert or open 
attack on these associations ; he must 
weaken their power over the soul ; he 
has a long work to do to detach the 
mind from its fastenings, before he can 
move it according to his will. But, in 
a new region, he finds all this, to a great 
extent, done to his harhd. There is no 
ancient sanctuary, or sabbath-bell, or 
sepulchre of the dead, or schoolhouse, 
or established public sentiment, that can 
hinder his purposes ; and his work be- 
gins at a point, to reach which elsewhere 
might cost the labors of his life. 

" A third observation which may be 
made in relation to the characteristics 
of the western mind, is, that there are 
circumstances which make it certain that 
it will be developed. 

" From the character, also, of the el- 
ements which compose society there, 
there will be intellectual stiife ; there 
will be earnest conflict ; there will be 
impassioned eloquence ; there will be a 
struggle of mind with mind. 

" Everything in the natural scenery 
is on a scale so vast and grand — the ma- 
jestic rivers, the boundless prairies, the 
deep forest, the very immensity almost 
of the rich domain which is spread out 
there as if to make man vast in his 
schemes, gigantic in his purposes, large 
in his aspirations, and boundless in his 
ambition. 

" I may notice a fourth characteristic 
of the western mind, in its relation to 
religion. Strange as it may seem to 
one who looks on the heterogeneous and 
unsettled mass, the result of the experi- 
ments there made has shown that the 
west is not a favorable field for planting 
communities destitute of all religion. 

" The question, then, if these are just 
vieAVS, is not whether there shall be any 
religion, or none — but whether the re- 
ligion which shall prevail there shall be 
true or false ; enlightened or ignorant ; 
a miserable fanaticism, or a large and 
liberal Christianity ; a low and di'ivel- 
ling superstition, or principles that com- 
mend themselves to reason and common 



538 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



sense ; the religion of tradition, or the 
religion of the Bible ; a religion of ex- 
citement, and feeling, and variableness, 
or the religion of principle." 

The following statements, recently- 
published, give an interesting view of 
the advantages offered by the Ohio for 
ship-building : — 

An intelligent gentleman, formerly of 
Boston, but who has spent most of the 
last twenty years in the west, in 1805 
explored the west, with a view to the 
establishment of a ship-yard there, and 
in 1806, a Mr. Jarvis, of Boston, on his 
recommendation, built one or two large 
ships at Marietta. One of the lai'gest 
and best bodies of oak in the United 
States is on the banks of the Ohio, 
stretching along the highlands of Vir- 
ginia, Ohio, and the more mountainous 
region of Kentucky, for several hundred 
miles. There are inexhaustible beds of 
coal and iron ore directly on the river 
bank from Pittsburgh, some four hun- 
dred miles westerly, and within which 
distance there are now nearly two hun- 
dred and fifty furnaces and forges en- 
gaged in producing and manufacturing 
the raw material. Several large ships 
have since been built at the above and 
other places on the Ohio, and at an av- 
erage of from twenty to thirty per cent. 
less than they could have been built for 
on the Atlantic. The Ohio is an un- 
steady stream, but all who are acquaint- 
ed with it know, that at least two months 
in the spring, and for the same period 
in the autumn, there is sufficient water, 
as high up as Marietta, for a ship-of-the- 
line to pass down to the Mississippi. It 
is also true, that for six or eight months, 
one year with another, there are times 
when the largest merchantmen can tra- 
verse this river in perfect safety. By 
so arranging as to bring out the ship so 
that she would make her descent in the 
spring or autumn, she could load with 
the products of the countiy, and make, 
on her homeward passage, more than 
sufficient to compensate for any loss of 
time or other inconveniences for being 
built at a distance from her place of 
final destination, while the timber crop 
and means of subsistence can be obtained 
in the greatest abundance, and at a com- 



paratively small price to what they would 
cost on the seaboard. It is to be borne 
in mind, that Kentucky and Ohio pro- 
duce the best of hemp, which, if called 
for, would be manufactured on the spot, 
to complete the rigging up, and at a 
great saving in expense. 

The only difficulty to be encountered 
in the commencement of an extensive 
yard in the interior, would be the want 
of workmen ; but this would be reme- 
died so soon as an assurance should be 
given for constant employ. It is ob- 
servable, too, that in this mild and ge- 
nial climate, the same force can accom- 
plish more in the year than at New 
York, Boston, or anywhere at the north, 
a fact showing that both principal and 
labor have greater advantages here than 
elsewhere ; besides, the workman can 
support his family for one third what 
it will cost him at the east. 

A Western River-Town. — Many of 
the principal river-towns in the west 
bear more or less resemblance to that 
represented in the accompanying engra- 
ving ; and in several points some of 
those of Indiana enjoy situations much 
like it. The banks of the Ohio and the 
Wabash, in several parts, are as eleva- 
ted as the land seen on the opposite side 
of the streams, while the clusturing hou- 
ses near the shore, the signs of naviga- 
tion on the water, and the general as- 
pect of active and prosperous business, 
on the one hand, and of a varied and 
fruitful country, on the other, may afford 
an impression of one of the western 
towns rising so rapidly on the borders 
of those large and beautiful rivers. The 
roofs of large public buildings are seen 
above the numerous private habitations, 
and the number of church steeples, 
which present the most conspicuous 
objects, indicate that vaiuous Christian 
denominations in the country are repre- 
sented in our distant regions, and car- 
ry with them their zeal and their in- 
dustry. 

There are salt-springs in different 
parts of Indiana; but the people were 
formerly wholly supplied with salt from 
the United States saline, near Shawnee- 
town, and the salines of Kenhawa. Coal 
beds exist in some places, and copper 



ore is found in the north. From early 
times a report has prevailed that a silver 
mine existed near Ouitanon ; but the 
uniform surface of the country and the 
deep soil which covers a large part of 
it, are unfavorable to the discovery of 
mines, and to the abundance of minerals 
of any kind. Large tracts of the state, 
as in many other extensive regions of 
the west, are destitute of rocks, stones, 
and even pebbles. 

The navigable waters of Indiana are 
very numerous and extensive ; the prin- 
cipal rivers being accessible in large 
steamboats, and many of their branches 
being boatable. The entire extent of 
navigable waters has been variously es- 
timated at from two thousand five hun- 
dred miles and upward. 

So numerous are the streams which 
approach the shores of the lakes, so high 
are they navigable in boats, at least a 
part of the year, and so many conveni- 
ent ponds lie between, that more than 
twenty portages have formerly been 
used on various routes between the wa- 
ters of the Ohio and Wabash and the 
lakes. 

1. The oldest of these used by white 
men is that between St. Mary's and the 
little river of the Wabash, which was 
used by the French from Canada, in 
communicating with their early posts on 
the Wabash, 2. By the short Chicago 
and Kickapoo of the Illinois. 3. By the 
Big Miami and a branch of the Mau- 
mee, by which canoes pi-oceed from the 
Ohio to Lake Erie. 4. To Lorimer's 
fort, between the Miami and Maumee. 
5. By Hudson river of Lake Erie and 
Grand river of Lake Michigan. 6. By 
the Muskingum and Cuyahoga of Lake 
Erie, during spring floods. 7. The four- 
mile portage, between St. Joseph's of 
Lake Michigan and the Theakiki. 8. The 
two-mile portage, between Theakiki and 
the Great Kenomic. 9. The half-mile 
portage, between the Great and Little 
Kenomic. 10. The three-mile portage, 
between the Chicago and the Plein. 
There are also many others between the 
branches of the Wabash and Lake 
Michigan. 

There were formerly many tribes of 
Indians residing within the bounds of 



this state : the Mascotins, Piankeshaws, 
Kickapoos, Delawares, Miamies, Shaw- 
nees, Weeas, Ouitanons, Eel Rivers, 
and Pottawotamies. 

In 1791 General Wilkinson invaded 
their counti-y, and destroyed their great 
town, in which were one hundred and 
twenty houses, eighty of which had shin- 
gled roofs. 

The country about the upper parts of 
the Wabash is of the best kind, the soil 
being black, deep, friable, and highly 
productive, and the surface extending in 
wide and beautiful prairies, of an un- 
dulated form. They are less uniform 
and flat than most of the prairies fur- 
ther west, often being varied by hills, 
some of considerable elevation. The 
region thus abounds in fine scenes, which 
aff'ord a delightful relief to the eye. 

These regions were formerly well 
stocked with game ; and wild animals 
are still common in some places : bears, 
deer, wild turkeys, prairie-hens, par- 
tridges, grouse, wild pigeons, rattle- 
snakes, and copper-heads. Abundance 
of fish of different kinds are found in the 
streams and lakes. The first settlers, as 
well as the Indians, depended for their 
subsistence, to a great extent, upon the 
chase and fishing; and the pursuit of 
bears and deer, especially, gave fi'equent 
exercise to their skill and activity. 

A Bear Hunt. — The accompanying 
engraving offers a very interesting scene 
of a nature quite common in the early 
period of the settlement. In a still and 
clear winter's night, when the animal, 
I'avenous with hunger, sometimes pro- 
ceeded from his den in search of food, 
the bold and hardy settler was also 
awake and abroad. With his trusty 
rifle in his hand, a cautious step and a 
watchful eye, his ear attentive to every 
sound, he sought a station from which 
he might discover and obsei've the ap- 
proach of the fierce wanderer of the for- 
est. The cracking of the frozen surface 
of a lake or river, or the falling of a 
twig overladen with ice, was the only 
sound that, for a time, broke the solemn 
silence of the night. But a rustling of 
the bushes, or the motion of a dark fig- 
ure slowly emei'ging from the gloom, 
betrayed the approach of the prowler. 



542 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



After the discovery of a bear, the 
primary object of the hunter is to avoid 
his observation, until he comes within 
the reach of the rifle; and the second 
is to make sure work at the first shot. 
The savage beast, though usually inclined 
to avoid a rencontre with his human en- 
emy at a season when his nature is tamed 
by full feeding on vegetables, is rendered 
bold and fierce by hunger, seems raised 
above all fear, and rushes even upon an 
armed man to devour him. Unlike most 
other wild animals, also, he is almost in- 
evitable in the pursuit, when the hunter 
turns to fly. There is scarcely any sur- 
face, however yielding, over which his 
soft and spreading foot will not bear 
him; and he climbs the tree with far 
greater facility than the most agile man, 
following him to the extremity of the 
limbs, and falling, on occasion, more 
safely to the ground. 

But such men as the settlers of Indi- 
ana would seldom find themselves re- 
duced to seek escape before the bear, 
even in the severest season. Having 
discovered his game, he resorted to all 
the arts which ingenuity and experience 
could dictate, until he found himself 
within rifle distance ; and then, with un- 
erring aim, he sent the fatal ball into 
the savage heart of the beast, which 
would gladly have found his way into 
the little log-house, and devoured the 
sleeping family : and now the monster's 
flesh is to serve them for food, and his 
warm and shaggy skin is to shield them 
from the cold. 

Many a scene like that represented in 
the engraving has been witnessed in the 
prairies of Indiana, which in winter pre- 
sent a dreary and chilling aspect, though 
in summer blooming in the richest fer- 
tility, enlivened with graceful deer, smi- 
ling with a thousand flowers, and re- 
sounding with songs of musical birds. 

The first newspaper in Indiana was 
published at Vincennes, the seat of gov- 
ernment, sometime before 1810. In 
1828 there were twenty-eight newspa- 
pers in the state. 

The historical society of Indiana was 
organized in 1820, and incorporated 
in 1831. 

Lawrenceburg is a small town on the 



bank of the Ohio, one mile below the 
mouth of the Great Miami. There are 
four churches and a courthouse, and the 
number of inhabitants is about 2,500. 
Three times a week stage-coaches de- 
part for Cincinnati, Madison, and Indi- 
anapolis. 

Madison. — This town, eighty-nine 
miles below Cincinnati, occupies a beau- 
tiful position on the bank of the Ohio. 
The surrounding country has fine hills, 
and the streets are laid out with regu- 
larity, and built with taste. There are 
ten churches, a courthouse, a mai'ket- 
house, a bank, and a savings bank, and 
a population of about 5,000. The hills 
in the I'ear of the town rise to an eleva- 
tion of two hundred and fifty feet, and 
there are several fine views from their 
sides and summits. Steamboats land at 
the wharves, stage-coaches run three 
times a week to Cincinnati, Louisville, 
and Frankfort, and the railroad forms a 
constant and easy co'mmunication with 
Indianapolis. 

New Albany, one hundred and forty 
miles above Cincinnati, and two miles 
below the falls, is the largest town in 
Indiana, containing six thousand five 
hundred and sixty inhabitants. The 
public buildings are nine churches, a 
bank, a male and a female seminary, a 
lyceum, and the theological college. 

The streets are from seventy to one 
hundred feet in breadth, and laid out 
with regularity. Much ship-building is 
carried on here. There are several 
large ship-yards ; and from ten to fif- 
teen steamboats are annually built, be- 
sides a considerable number of sloops 
and schooners. Besides several stage- 
routes, much travelling is performed on 
the river. 

EvANsviLLE, two hundred and thirty- 
three miles below Cincinnati, stands on 
an elevation on the bank of the Ohio, 
and contains several large manufactories, 
with ten churches, and several other 
public buildings. The population is two 
thousand five hundred. One mile dis- 
tant from this place are 

The Pigeon Springs. — This is a fa- 
vorite resort for visiters in the summer 
months. The waters contain muriate 
of soda, bicarbonate of iron, and magne- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF INDIANA. 



543 



sia, carbonic acid, and carburetted hy- 
drogen gases, with nitrogen. Their 
medical properties are aperient, altera- 
tive, diuretic, and diaphoretic. 

Bloomington, forty-nine miles from 
Indianapolis, is situated at the head of 
a branch of White river, and contains 
nearly 3,000 inhabitants. It has five 
churches and the Indiana university. 

Cut-off River. — This wild scene, rep- 
resented in the engraving, is on the 
course of a stream of this singular name, 
which is a branch of the Wabash, flow- 
ing into that river at New Harmony. 
The banks are high, steep, and very 
remarkable for their picturesque char- 
acter, being steep, and thickly grown 
with gigantic oaks and other trees of 
large size, while the surface is broken 
by Tocks and ledges. The stream in 
some parts is beautifully variegated with 
small islands, which add a most pleas- 
ing character to the scene ; while the 
high, rude, and frowning banks, crowd- 
ed with thick, natural forests, giye an 
air of wildness and sublimity, strongly 
contrasting with the smooth surface of 
the stream ; and the gentler aspect of 
some of the islets which seem to float on 
the water. 

Evergreen-trees are rare in these re- 
gions ; but the catalpa-tree and plane, 
with the maples, rise from an under- 
growth of pawpaws, spinewood, and red- 
bud, presenting a rich variety of form and 
color, remarkably agreeable to the eye. 

Circumstances have led to some pe- 
culiarities in the settlements of large 
portions of Indiana. The cheapness of 
the land attracted many settlers from 
Pennsylvania and further south, as well 
as Germans and foreigners from several 
nations in Europe. These did not gen- 
erally meet and mingle in one mass : 
they were not drawn to particular points, 
but usually scattered and planted at dis- 
tances from each other. Later immi- 
grants, therefore, naturally obeyed the 
laws of affinity, and bent their steps to 
the neighborhoods where they found the 
languages or the customs in which they 
had been educated. Thus the process 
f)f amalgamation has not gone as far in 
tliis state as in many other newly-settled 
regions ; and in some parts it hardly 



appears to have yel commenced. The 
traveller on some of the routes through 
Indiana, meets in succession with small 
communities which offer striking pic- 
tures of several distinct European na- 
tions, alternating with others marked 
with the peculiarities of the east and 
the south, the west, the middle and the 
northern parts of our own country. 

The history of New Harmony, already 
given, presents a striking picture of one 
community of a peculiar nature, and es- 
sentially different from any other within 
the limits of the state ; but there are oth- 
ers, of different kinds, which are hardly 
more exclusive, and but little less af- 
fected by surrounding influences. Such 
circumstances ai-e unfavorable to some 
of the best interests of the state, and 
must tend to retard such improvements 
as the public need. They may, per- 
haps, be best counteracted by the uni- 
versal diffusion of education, and pri- 
marily by the multiplication of good 
public schools. Unhappily, Indiana has 
not yet shown becoming zeal in this 
important department of public improve- 
ment ; and she must expect to see some 
of her more sagacious neighbors leading 
the way in solid progress, in prosperily, 
wealth, and numbers, as well as in gen- 
eral intelligence, refinement, and power. 
She must, notwithstanding, continue to 
increase, and with rapidity. Her soil, 
situation, and various natural resources, 
will constantly attract new-comers, wliile 
they will well reward those who have 
already adopted the land as their own. 
With the strong inducements which the 
state has to lay wide and deep the foun- 
dations of public intelligence and vir- 
tue, and the strong stimulus offered by 
the examples of some of her sister states, 
it may be hoped that she wall hereafter 
become not less conspicuous for her pat- 
ronage of learning, than for her numer- 
ous and superior natural advantages. 
Certain it is, that whenever such a pe- 
riod shall arrive, Indiana will find her 
career attended with many facilities and 
improvements; and such of her citizens 
as may anticipate the change of public 
opinion, will find their active and perse- 
vering exertions rewarded by great and 
honorable and lasting results. 



544 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 




This state is distinguished by 
natural peculiarities, which give it 
a marked distinction among its sis- 
ters of the American Union. In the 
rapid increase of its inhabitants, it is 
unsurpassed, having a population in 
1850 of 858,234. In 1771 it was 
only 1,460; in 1800, 3,250 ; in 1810, 
12,282; in 1820, 55,211; in 1830, 
157,445; in 1840, 484,500 ; in 1845, 
668,000. 

Various authentic sources, of the 
latest dates, furnish the following 
particulars respecting this extensive, 
fertile, and growing state. 
The extreme length of Illinois, from north to south, is 375 miles, and the 
extreme width 215, averaging about 160. It lies between 37*^ and 42° 30' north 
latitude, and 10° 25' and 14° 25' west longitude from Washington. The area is 
about sixty thousand square miles, or 38,400,000 acres. The public land sur- 
veys give 35,235,200 acres, or 55,055 square miles, leaving 4,945 square miles 
chiefly occupied with navigable waters. All the waste lands, including those so 
broken as to be useless (there are no mountains), irreclaimable swamps, &c.. may 
amount to two millions of acres, or 3,125 square miles ; leaving of arable lands 
and small water-courses, which are necessary for farming purposes, 51,930 square 
miles. 

Illinois is the third state in the Union in extent; and in its proportion of good 
land by far the first. Another such tract of equal size and quality can not be 
carved out on the globe. It is larger in area than all New England, deduct- 
ing one tenth of Maine; greater than England and Wales united; has two 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP ILLINOIS. 



545 



acres of good land to their one ; and, 
in productiveness, two acres of Illinois 
land are equal to at least three of their 
cultivated ones on the average, and with 
good husbandry will continue so for 
many years. And with such agricul- 
tural capabilities, unsurpassed by any 
other state or nation great or small, not 
a state in the Union, except a few small 
ones on the seaboard, possesses equal 
natural advantages for marketing its 
surplus. 

The mineral riches beneath the soil 
are perfectly exhaustless. No geologi- 
cal survey has been had, so that we 
know not what the resources in this re- 
spect may be. But coal mines, lime- 
stone, and granite, are found in all parts ; 
lead in immense quantities at the north 
and south ; iron at the north ; salt springs 
at the south and centre ; and potter's 
clay, waterlime, and various kinds of 
marble, in the different sections. 

In general it is well watered with 
springs and running streams, though 
some of the large prairies in the north- 
ern part are somewhat deficient in this 
respect. Even there, however, it is not 
common to find a section* without a 
spring. Closely in connexion, come in 
the manufacturing advantages. The 
greatest lack of nature's bounties, and 
indeed the only one of consequence, is 
a limited supply of timber. This ob- 
jection, however, lies only against por- 
tions of the north, and is easily remedied 
by culture. There is enough for pres- 
ent purposes. As yet the best can be 
bought in all parts of the state for from 
three to ten dollars per acre ; and twenty 
to forty acres, well husbanded, suffice 
for a large farm. The future will take 
care of itself. Black-locust will grow 
in two years from the seed, to make 
fencing material ; and if the fires on un- 
cultivated prairie be kept down for a 
few years, the surface is speedily cov- 
ered with a young forest growth. There 
will be more timber in Illinois twenty 
years hence than now. 

Illinois will be — must be — one of the 
noblest branches of the confederacy. 
• A section is a square mile, or six handred and 
fcnty acres. The public surveys divide the lands 
into townships six miles square, sections, quarter 
and half quarter sectiona. 



No one of her sister states enjoys equal 
natural advantages ; and with honesty 
and ability to direct her public affairs, 
which her citizens can supply, she will 
take a most honorable position. 

The " timbered openings" are meat 
delightful to the eye, though the inti- 
mate combination of them all is requis- 
ite to satisfy the highest ideal of utility 
or beauty. Were Illinois all praii'ie, 
though inconceivably fertile, it would 
be uninhabitable by man, by reason of 
the lack of fuel, fencing and building 
materials ; were it all timbered, there 
would be slender temptation to desert 
in its favor the more accessible new 
lands of Ohio and western New York. 
But this natural intermingling of grain- 
field and pasture, meadow and grove, is 
more inviting than any aspect worn by 
nature elsewhere. He who traverses 
this region will never again wonder at 
the mighty tide of emigration which sets 
with resistless, ever-increasing volume 
from the Atlantic westward. 

There is extreme difficulty in realizing 
that this adaptation is indeed the work 
of nature. Before and beside you rolls 
an " inland sea" of verdure and luxu- 
riance — hundreds of acres of wheat, 
corn, and oats, darkly waving in early 
summer ; while behind them stretch the 
immeasurable meadows, coeval with 
Eden, their untold wealth of herbage 
and flowers undulating in the fresh 
breezes like a gently-troubled ocean ; 
and still behind these, at points not very 
far distant, and again far as the eye can 
reach, or farther, swells the graceful out- 
line of the nearest woods, marking the 
winding way of some sluggish water- 
course, or, more commonly, crowning 
some scanty elevation with the glossy 
foliage of the scattered oaks, beneath 
whose protecting shade a thick growth 
of clustering shrubbery, mainly oak also, 
commingled with hazel, repels the grass 
and withstands the fire of the prairie, 
maintaining a precarious and stationary 
existence. The little that man has yet 
done here blends so naturally and easily 
with the work of nature, that the forest 
outline seems the limit of his transfor- 
mations. The open prairie, often dot- 
ted with extensive herds of cattle or 



35 



546 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



slieep, and everywhere inviting their 
presence — every w^here proffering a har- 
vest to the mow^er's scythe — seems, alike 
with the neighboring expanse of corn 
and wheat, too bounteous, too benefi- 
cent, to have waved there spontaneously, 
through summer after summer, since the 
deluge. The new and the old do not 
palpably wrestle here as in the forest 
clearings, where the narrow field of 
man's victory stands out in scathed and 
blackened contrast with the verdure and 
stateliness surrounding it ; but all seems 
peaceful, genial, and bounteous. The 
prairies ai'e the Capua of nature. May 
they not lure into indolence and sensu- 
ality the Hannibals of our continent — 
the hardy pioneer race, whose rapid and 
mighty conquests have been more truly 
wondrous, and far more beneficent, than 
those of any warrior ! 

The best natural dispositions of prai- 
rie and timber, and the most tasteful 
improvements, are on the cross-roads 
and by-ways, quite aside from the three 
or f()ur great roads leading west from 
Chicago, which are mainly travelled. 
These routes are injured by land specu- 
lation and non-resident ownership ; they 
traverse immense breadths of treeless 
prairie, threaded by narrow ridges of 
scattered and scanty timber ; while in 
crossing diagonally from one western 
road to another, especially in the valley 
of the Fox, the Sycamore, or the Black- 
berry, the country is better timbered, 
better improved, and every way more 
inviting. 

As to cattle and sheep, they cost lit- 
erally nothing here. Fi'om April to 
November they thrive and fatten on the 
broad, unappropriated prairies uncared 
for, and the settler will cut hay enough 
in a fortnight, within half a mile of his 
cabin, to carry a large herd through the 
winter. Good cows might be raised 
here for five dollars a head, and a yoke 
of well-broken oxen turned off at a net 
cost of twenty. Herds of a hundred 
head are no rarity, new as are the set- 
tlements here, and they bid fair to be 
soon swelled to thousands. Sheep are 
brought in by thousands and loaned to 
settlers, on covenants with good secu- 
rity to pay one and a half to two pounds 



j of wool annually per head, and return 
a flock equal in all respects after a term 
of years ; and, exorbitant as is the usury, 
the settler, unable to pay for sheep, may 11 
better take them on these terms than 
do without them. Nearly every cabin 
is surrounded with hogs, which run at 
large in summer, and convert the super- 
abundant corn into pork in the fall. 

The pioneer who erects his shanty in 
the midst of a forest, must struggle long 
or very efficiently before he lets in sun- 
shine enough to give him a surplus of 
grain, or justify him in keeping a herd 
of cattle. But here be can not have too 
many cattle, even though his cabin is 
not yet built; a hundred head would 
enrich and could not embarrass him ; 
while, give him but team enough, he 
may grow his own grain the first year, 
and a surplus of a thousand bushels the 
next. The wet lands (termed ' sloos,' 
or 'sloughs'), at first unavailable, are 
richest of all, and need but a little drain- 
age to render them the most productive 
Even the higher timbei'ed lands, thinly 
covered with patriarchal oaks, overlook- 
ing a thick undergrowth of bushes — 
though here termed "barrens" — are 
really only less fertile than the prairies. 
They produce abundantly when broken 
up and planted. 

And now let us look at the other side 
of the picture, and see what are the dis- 
advantages of settlement and life on the 
prairies. 

Deficiency of timber is the first to 
strike the eye of one familiar with rural 
or pioneer life at the east. The den- 
izen of a log cabin in western New 
York or Ohio may at times be short of 
meal or of meat, but he has always good 
fuel in abundance within a stone's throw 
of his door, fencing stuff as near, and 
building timber not much less so. But 
here he finds the accessible sections, 
embracing portions of timber and prai- 
rie, all clutched by speculators, or ap- 
propriated by earlier immigrants, and 
he can obtain land at government price 
only by pitching his tent on the broad, 
treeless prairie, where not even an arm- 
ful of wood can be picked up within a 
mile. Hither he must haul his building 
materials (pine) from Chicago, his fuel 



548 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



and fencing from some adjacent grove 
or "barren," after buying or stealing 
them ; so that the time saved to him in 
having no timber nor stumps between 
him and a crop, is nearly all required to 
cut or haul timber and fuel. As to 
eligibility and comfort, a little rude 
pioneer's cabin looks better, and is more 
habitable, in an opening of the forest 
than in the glaring sunshine of an un- 
shaded prairie. 

Ill health is another dravi'back on the 
charms of prairie life. The settler has 
hardly erected his cabin, and begun to 
break up the earth around it, when the 
detested ague jumps upon him, just 
when his time is most precious — when 
his winter wheat should be got in. His 
family, one after another, are taken 
down with bilious disease, and a hard 
season they have of it — in a sti-ange 
land, with means and neighbors scanty, 
and the nearest physician perhaps miles 
away. Of course all are not so visited 
— many escape, through previous accli- 
mation, fortunate location, or constitu- 
tional hardihood ; but these are truly 
exceptions, and the settler from New 
England, or any region not cursed with 
the ague, should go expecting a siege 
of it, and thoroughly prepared with 
medicines, &c., for its proper treatment. 

But these discouragements to prairie 
settlement are not so formidable as they 
appear to many. Ill health must be 
braved almost anywhere in settling a 
new country ; and, though more general 
here than on a more rugged and less 
fertile soil, if seasonably and propei-ly 
treated, it is not often fatal. On the 
other hand, many diseases common at 
the east are said to be unknown here, 
and even curable by a timely removal 
hither, including that fatal blight, con- 
sumption. When the prairies shall have 
been thoroughly bi'ought under cultiva- 
tion, whereby the " sloughs" will have 
been easily drained, especially if good 
water shall be procured, Illinois will 
probably prove as healthy as western 
New York now is, and, in time, as New 
Hampshire. 

So of the scarcity of timber. There 
is enough of its kind (oak and hickory) 
now, if it were only a little better dis- 



tributed, and cultivation is gradually 
beating back the annual prairie fires, and 
planting groves aTid thickets. A little 
care and labor work wonders in this re- 
spect. A few acres ploughed and sowed 
to locust afford fuel and fencing after 
five or six years, and timber of slower 
growth may thus be as easily though 
not so quickly obtained. If speculation 
would now undertake to buy up the 
centres of the great prairies and plant 
them with trees, it would for once do a 
good thing, and abate somewhat of the 
just odium created by the purchase of 
large tracts to remain sheer waste and 
obstacles until other men's hard labor 
has quadrupled their value. 

The great, formidable, permanent, 
drawback on the eligibility of the prai- 
rie region for settlement, is the deficiency 
of water. This, perhaps, can never be 
fully remedied. Though the face of the 
counti-y is by no means a dead level, but 
undulating, the inequality is so slight 
that springs are very, very rare, and 
running brooks hardly less so. You may 
ride twenty miles across the country 
without seeinor water enouoh in all to 
turn agi'istmill; and what you do find 
a well-bred horse will only drink in his 
last extremity of thirst. A whole coun- 
ty, which in New England would give 
rise to half a dozen good mill-streams, 
and be threaded all over with sparkling 
trout-brooks, will here send off scarcely 
water enough in summer to run a single 
pair of buri'-stones. This, in a region 
so wonderfully adapted to the jroduction 
of grain and cattle, is a sore deficiency. 
Following down the valley of the Fox, 
some twenty miles, by the thriving villa- 
ges of Elgin, St. Charles, Geneva, and 
Aurora (each well supplied with mill- 
power by the river), although the scar- 
city of running streams was here by no 
means so absolute as in the prairies on 
either hand, yet we may doubt whether 
the river gains as much by tributaries as 
it loses by evaporation within that dis- 
tance. And, though water is generally 
obtained with facility by simply digging 
a few feet through the prairie soil, we 
can not in conscience recommend the 
drinking of it, whether by man or beast. 
The abundance of lime, which renders 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OP ILLINOIS. 



549 



the soil so fertile, exerts a far less desi- 
rable influence on the water. Here is 
tlie main source of the prevailing dis- 
eases. With pure, cold water bubbling 
up at every door, and the vile liquors so 
prevalent here consigned to the bottom 
of the ocean, this would soon be a 
healthy country. 

In time, the want of water on the 
prairies will in part be remedied by 
sinking deep wells through the nearest 
stratum of rock, and raising the fluid by 
means of a windlass or otherwise. In 
villages, the Artesian wells may not be 
too expensive. 

At Jacksonville the coimti-y begins to 
lose that level appearance that it has ex- 
hibited in the north, and, as we proceed 
to the south, is more wooded, with more 
up-hill and down-hill. There is, how- 
ever, still much pi-airie land to pass 
over, and the soil is, if possible, richer 
than it is further north. Everything 
will grow here, and the settlers have 
taken some pains to plant trees, pai'tic- 
ularly the locust and the rock or sugar 
maple. In the valleys and on the hill- 
sides we find oak, and walnut, and the 
hazel-nut. On the hills are the black- 
berry and other bushes known in New 
England — the mustard, the mullein, the 
whiteweed, &c. We are now in a part 
of the country that is " fenced in," and 
we behold on every side the most lux- 
uriant farms, good houses, and large 
barns. As we proceed south, the corn 
grows taller and taller, with ears, in the 
silk, higher up in the air than a tall man 
can reach. We see beautiful fields of 
rye, and thick tall grass of the various 
descriptions. As we pass through a 
more generally settled district, we find 
the prairie grass is nearly run out, and 
in its place is the timothy, and the red- 
top, and the clover. 

Galena, the great depdt of the min- 
eral region of southern Wisconsin, is 
situated on Fever river, about six miles 
from its mouth. It presents a very metal- 
lic appearance, inasmuch aa its wharves 
are lined with piles of pig-lead, as far as 
the eye can I'each. In June last, the 
lead lying on the river bank awaiting 
exportation amounted to four hundred 
and fifty thousand pigs, averaging sev- 



enty-five pounds each, making about sev- 
enty-five cords, weighing over three mil- 
lions of pounds, and worth at New York 
twelve millions of dollars ! This lead 
region occupies the northwestern por- 
tion of Illinois, and the southwestern 
corner of Wisconsin, together with a strip 
of a few miles in width on the oppo- 
site side of the Mississippi in Iowa, equal 
to a surface of nearly three thousand 
square miles. In riding over the coun- 
try from Galena to the Wisconsin river, 
the most remarkable feature presented is 
the numerous " diggings." One might 
imagine himself in the vicinity of some 
huge burrowing animal, with its holes 
scattered in countless multitudes on the 
sides and tops of the hills for many miles 
around. Here originated that slang 
phrase : " The greatest man in these 
diggings." 

The peculiar method of discovering 
and working these mines has introduced 
another new word into the language — 
that of " prospecting," One or two 
men, with a pickaxe and shovel, com- 
mence digging on the top or side of a 
hill, opening a hole from three to ten 
feet deep or more ; if they find no indi- 
cation of mineral, they abandon it and 
commence prospecting in another place. 
If successful, they either continue to 
work it or sell the prospect. These 
prospect holes are seldom filled up. 
The usual method of raising mineral is 
very simple, and very much like the 
primitive system of working the silver 
mines in Mexico. A shaft is sunk to the 
required depth, and while the man be- 
low gathers the fragments of ore, the 
one outside, by means of a rude wind- 
lass, raises it to the surface in buckets. 
In Mexico they raise the gold and silver 
ore in oxhide bags. In no instance has 
a seam of ore been exhausted. As soon 
as the diggings are carried so low as to 
reach water, they are generally aban- 
doned. With one or two exceptions, 
no attempt has been made to drain the 
mines by means of pumps worked by 
steam — a process absolutely necessary 
in neaily all the European mines. Dr. 
Owen, in his " Report of a Geological 
Examination of Iowa, Wisconsin, and 
Illinois," made in 1839, estimated the 



550 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



annual produce of the mines at that time 
at thirty millions of pounds. This was 
regarded as an over-estimate, the great- 
est amount reported by the government 
agents being above ten, or at most 
twelve millions. 

A different order of things has since 
arisen ; the mines are constantly increas- 
ing in productiveness, and there is now 
no interest in concealing the amount pro- 
duced. The number of pounds actually 
registered at Galena the last year was 
over fifty millions, and it is not improb- 
able that the amount which found its 
way to market without passing through 
Galena may have been several millions 
more. It is estimated by those whose 
knowledge and experience render them 
competent to judge, that if the mines 
already opened were well worked, they 
are capable of producing one hundred 
and fifty millions of pounds annually 
for ages to come, which is more than is 
nov/ produced by all the v/orld beside. 
It is without doubt the richest lead dis- 
trict in the known world. Neither is 
the wealth of this region confined to its 
mineral productions. It affords an ex- 
ception to the general rule that " min- 
eral lands are too barren for cultiva- 
tion." This is the case in England, 
Wales, and indeed nearly all other coun- 
tries ; but here I find a mineral country 
of unequalled richness, covered with a 
soil fully equal to that of the good farm- 
ing districts of other states ; and, judg- 
ing from the appearance of the country 
between here and the Wisconsin river, 
this fact is duly appreciated. New farms 
are bi'ought under cultivation in every 
direction. The old ones have an im- 
proved aspect, and the whole district 
presents an appearance of thrift equal 
to the most favored agricultural regions 
of the west. 

In Henry county is a settlement of 
Swedish emigrants, who, like our puri- 
tan fathers, were driven from the land 
of their nativity by bigotry, persecution, 
and intolerance. These people sought 
and found an asylum in this happy land 
of civil and religious liberty, where they 
can sit under their own vine and figtree, 
without any one to molest or make them 
afiaid, and worship God according to 



the dictates of conscience. How such 
valuable citizens, such pious and exem- 
plary Christians, could be persecuted in 
a protestant land like Sweden, under a 
king we so much esteem for his literary 
attainments and excellences as Oscar, 
we can not conceive, unless that he is 
controlled or deceived by a graceless 
priesthood. There are now at Bishop's 
hill, so named from a town in Sweden, 
whence many of them emigrated, about 
four or five hundred Swedes. Accord- 
ing to Dr. Baird, they are from the best 
citizens in Sweden. About four hun- 
dred more of their brethren are expect- 
ed to join them in this prairie land. 

Their community is one of the best 
regulated that was ever visited. There 
is among them no lordly, arbitrary con- 
trol, sustained by a few leaders over the 
many, but all is equality and brotherly 
love. Everything goes on among them 
in perfect harmony and with regularity, 
and there is every indication of indus- 
try and happiness in their little village. 

In a few yeai-s — in a country so abun- 
dantly fertile as this, owners as they are 
of the soil, in large and extensive fields, 
composed as their body is of mechanics 
in almost every branch of industry — 
they can soon become vastly rich if they 
desire it. They have already two Eno-- 
lish schools among them, and intend 
soon the establishment of a literary in- 
stitution. They need men among them 
of the first scientific attainments, to take 
charge of such an institution, as well as 
men of talent and energy, conversant 
with our laws, to defend their rights 
when infringed upon. 

The general intelligence which per- 
vades this band of our adopted breth- 
ren, is equal to that of the people of any 
part of the United States. Neatness, 
modesty, and sweetness of temper, are 
the •characteristics of their females; the 
women all seem to glory in doing their 
part of the labor that is necessary to 
earn a livelihood. 

Their houses are more cleanly and 
comfortable for winter than those of 
most new settlers. They dress well — 
not a ragged or ill-dressed person is to 
be found in the whole community. Their 
tables are abundantly supplied with a 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



551 



gi-eat variety of wholesome and well- 
dressed food, to which is added, as a 
beverage, very excellent small beer. 
Visiters are received with that warmth, 
cordiality, and confidence, which at once 
secure respect. 

The best farmers have already begun 
to carry in wool and flax in abundance, 
to be manufactured by their superior 
skill, and to obtain the fruits of their 
mechanical labor, which is performed 
with the greatest faithfulness. 

In their religious creed, they profess 
to take the Bible as their guide. They 
assemble evei"y morning and evening for 
divine service, when they have prayer, 
singing, preaching, and the reading of 
the Scriptures. Religion among them 
seems to be in a high state of revival. 
The Rev. Mr. Jonson and their other 
pi'eachers seem to be eminently pious, 
and in a few naonths more will probably 
be able to preach in English. The in- 
fluence of these strangers in a republic 
like ours, where the people govern, 
must ultimately be very considerable ; 
and, from what we can see and learn, we 
are led to believe that their influence 
will always be found operating in favor 
of virtue and intelligence. 

Chicago. — This is one of the most 
flourishing towns of the west, of the 
most rapid growth and flattering pros- 
pects, as it enjoys a situation perhaps 
surpassed by none, and certainly equalled 
by few. Lying at the head of Lake 
Michigan, and possessing a good har- 
bor, the extent of its trade, even for a 
short period, it would be difficult to 
limit. The navigable waters which 
must be tributary to it may already be 
estimated at thousands of miles, and the 
artificial means by which other regions 
are to be brought into near relations 
with it, are sufficient to double the 
amount. The fertility of these vast re- 
gions, and the rapid increase of their 
various products, which they annually 
pour through this outlet, secure to Chi- 
cago a rapid, solid, and permanent in- 
ci'ease of population and wealth. 

It stands on the shore of the lake, 
almost at its extreme southwest corner, 
and on the borders of one of the prairies 
which constitute so lai'ge and important 



a part of this and the adjacent stat-is. 
The view of this young and thrivino- 
town, exhibited in our accompanying en- 
graving, is taken from the land side, at 
a short distance on the prairie, whose 
level surface extends far and wide, on a 
level almost as unvarying as the surface 
of the lake at whose shore it terminates, 
and a glimpse of which is seen near the 
extremity of the picture, on the right. 
The accuracy of the drawing exhibits 
much of the freshness which naturally 
marks so new a town. The houses 
appear small and scattering, compared 
with those of a city in an older part of 
the country ; but several are observa- 
ble of larger size, and the number of 
churches and other public buildings, 
with the numerous masts of lake-vessels, 
and the smoke of steamboats and furna- 
ces, are sufficient indications of the su- 
perior importance of the place, and the 
extent of business already carried on in 
several branches. 

The population of Chicago has in- 
creased not only at a great, but at an 
astonishing rate. In 184G it was, ac- 
cording to a census taken, 14,169. That 
the people are generally industrious, and 
possessed of property, may be easily in- 
ferred from the fact that, at the same 
time, the assessments on the tax-list 
amounted to four millions five hundred 
thousand dollars, and the taxes to thirty- 
seven thousand dollars. The number 
of inhabitants, according to the census 
of 1850, was 28,269, being an increase 
over that given by the census of 1840, of 
23,790, over five hundred per cent. 

Chicago is now a large city. At the 
close ot llic Black Hawk war, not more 
than fourteen years ago, the site i:ow 
covered by a city of many thousand in- 
habitants, and with all the arts and ele- 
gancies, the substance and the comforts, 
of long civilization and settlements — 
was a frontier military outpost, which 
had no habitation without its pickets, 
and few or none but for the accomnn)- 
dation of a small garrison within. 

Chicago is the seaport of Illinois — the 
point opposite to the terminus, at St. Jo- 
seph's, of the railroad across Michigan, 
and, therefore, in a direct line, affords 
the shortest cut from the Atlantic sea- 



552 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



board of the east to ihe Mississippi river, 
in traversing Lake Erie, the peninsula 
of Michigan, and the fertile state of Il- 
linois. 

The Illinois canal, vs^hich connects 
through the IlUnois and Mississippi riv- 
ers, the waters of the lakes with those 
of the gulf of Mexico, is the connecting 
link of an unbroken water-communica- 
tion, from the Atlantic ocean off Sandy- 
Hook to the gulf of Mexico off the 
Balize, on which line Chicago is a prin- 
c' I il city. This canal, which has been 
liiely finished, is one of the most mag- 
nificent works ever undertaken. It is 
sixty feet wide, and six feet deep. It 
is one hundred and five miles in length, 
and cost over eight millions of dollars. 
This canal is described at greater length 
on a previous page. 

The town-plot of Chicago is a level 
plain, the prairie pushing up to the lake ; 
a broad belt of wood runs along the 
margin of the lake, and marks the course 
of the Chicago river, as it comes from 
the interior. 

Chicago is built on the dead level of 
the prairie, scarcely elevated above the 
the surface of Lake Michigan, and is 
commanded from no point unless from 
the roof of some edifice. Its harbor is 
but the narrow, bending channel of an 
inconsiderable creek, and greatly needs 
extension and improvement. Eastward, 
on the lake shore, is the most airy, 
agi-eeable section of the city, covered 
with tasteful dwellings. 

Rapid as the growth of Chicago has 
been, large as it now is, whoever pro- 
ceeds westward or southward across the 
prairies, and notes the unequalled ca- 
pacities of the soil, its universal fertility, 
its susceptibility of easy culture, and the 
rapidity of its transformation from a 
waste to a garden, can hardly doubt that 
it will increase rapidly. The spacious 
Illinois canal will also add immensely 
to the trade of its n<H-thern emporium ; 
but a railroad to Galena has also fol- 
lowed, and will prove even more benefi- 
cent and remunerating. The very de- 
ficiencies of the prairies — that of timber 
especially — renders this raib'oad across 
them more productive, supplying an 
abundance of heavy return freight to the 



trains which convey to Chicago llio 
grain of the interior. The expense of 
grading and of bridging proved very 
light. The energetic and enterprising 
chai-acter of the population of Chicago 
and northern Illinois — in great part com- 
posed of emigrants from New England 
and New York — is an element not to 
be overlooked in estimating the produc- 
tiveness of this road, by which the lead 
of Galena and very much of the trade 
of the upper Mississippi are to be drawn 
to New York and Boston. 

Crossing the southern extremity of 
Lake Michigan, passengers for the east 
are landed about daylight at the mouth 
of the St. Joseph. A majestic hotel, 
erected in the year 1836, stands there 
in desolation, and there are some other 
mcjnuments to the vanity of human cal- 
culations. The late decision of the 
directors of the f antral railroad, making 
New Buffalo instead (/ this place their 
western terminus, wcuM seem to seal the 
doom already writtei, on its faded walls. 
A stranger might not be veiy favor- 
ably impressed with western Michigan. 
The stage-road from St. Joseph to Kal- 
amazoo (fifty-five miles) does not pass 
through a very good section of it. tt is 
timbered mainly with oak, though hick- 
ory appeai-s at intervals, with very large 
whitewood, &c., on some of the streams. 
The clearings are sparse and scanty. 
At Pawpaw (the capital of Van Buren 
county) there is a good water-power, 
well improved, and a thriving country 
village. But, throughout all this region, 
there is a scarcity of springs and biooks. 
The soil seems less natural to grass than 
to grain. 

The impression of Chicago, as seen 
from the lake, is, on the whole, unfavor- 
able to the beholder, owing to the level 
site, which gives a character of same- 
ness to its aspect not observable as 
viewed from the land, whence you per- 
ceive not only the mere outline of the 
city, but its shipping, churches, and oth- 
er public buildings, which impart vari- 
ety and animation to the scene. The 
harbor, like many others on the lake, is 
an artificial one, consisting of two piers 
extending in parallel lines out from the 
Chicago river into Lake Michigan. The 



554 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



difficulties which are encountered here, 
in the effort to overcome by art the defi- 
ciencies of nature, are necessarily very 
great. To say nothing of the danger to 
which the harbor is subjected from the 
ice and storms of winter, the action of 
the winds and waves accumulates a de- 
posite of sand which forms a bar not 
only across the mouth of the channel, 
but within the harbor itself Yet there 
is no place on the lake equal in adapta- 
tion or advantages for the cheap and 
lasting construction of harbors of this 
description. So recent and rapid have 
been the settlement and growth of Chi- 
cago, that the mind can with difficulty 
avoid the supposition that the advanta- 
ges of its geographical position must 
have been long overlooked. But these, 
like those of St, Louis, were apprecia- 
ted by the French, who, as early as 1673, 
explored this portion of our country, 
but without, however, establishing any 
permanent occupancy of it. 

Chicago was for a long time the hunt- 
ing-ground of the Pottawatomie tribe 
of Indians, who, in the beginning of the 
present century, came from the islands 
near the entrance of Green bay, and ex- 
pelling the Miamies, occupied the best 
portions of northern Illinois and Indiana. 
All the beautiful tract of country lying 
around the little chain of lakes in Steu- 
ben and other counties in the latter state, 
was the chosen abode of the warriors 
and hunters of this tribe. 

As recently as 1830, Chicago consist- 
ed (exclusive of the residents required 
by the garrison, which government had 
established), of only three frame build- 
ings and five or six log houses. It has 
now a population of 28,000 ! The num- 
ber of new buildings erected during the 
past year, was fifteen hundred. Up- 
ward of two thousand vessels, of all 
classes and descriptions, enter and leave 
the harbor during each month of the 
navigable season. Its exports are sup- 
posed to exceed its imports, which latter 
amount to upward of two millions of 
dollars annually. Upward of twenty 
churches, of different denominations, at- 
test the religious influences at work 
among its busy population. Of these, 
the baptists have two, one of which, the 



first baptist chui'ch, is perhaps ttie 
finest edifice in the city. It was btii/t in 
1844, of brick, and is fifty-five by eighty 
feet, with a handsome portico, columns, 
and spire, which contains a bell and a 
clock with five dials. 

The commercial and agricultural in- 
terests of all the states bordering upon 
the lakes are indissolubly associated with 
Chicago, as a place of deposite and 
transhipment. Situated at the head of 
lake navigation, and at the termination 
of the Illinois and Michigan canal, by 
which a continuous water route has late 
been established from New York to 
New Orleans, she grasps in her embrace 
the increasing direct trade of the great 
northwest, and stands at the door of that 
granary, where a peaceful commerce 
exchanges and discharges the produc- 
tions of both hemispheres. That the 
wonderful rapidity with which Chicago 
has substituted, for the miserable huts 
of a mere trading station, the comforta- 
ble dwellings and busy aspect of a com- 
mercial city, is attributable mainly to the 
natural advantages of its position, can 
not be denied. But much is due to the 
enterpi'ise and intelligence of its inhab- 
itants, evinced in their very emigration 
here, and also in their appreciation of 
the advantages with which a beneficent 
Providence has distinguished them, as 
well as in the efforts which they are con- 
stantly making to improve and extend 
them. 

A railroad, for which subscriptions 
had been made, is completed between 
Chicago and Galena, by which inter- 
communication with different parts of 
the state must be greaty facilitated, and 
the mineral riches of the latter place 
find another outlet to the seaboard. An- 
other railroad is already in successful 
operation between Detroit and New 
Buffalo, on the opposite side of Lake 
Michigan, and this it is contemplated to 
extend round the head of the lake to 
Chicago. This, in connexion with the 
first named, would bring the Mississippi 
within a day's journey of Detroit. 

The labor of the husbandman has ad- 
ded to the riches of the soil in every di- 
rection in the vicinity of the city, which 
is generally a prairie, elevated and un- 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



555 



dulating, and as productive as any otlier 
portion of the west. 

In the formation of society in Chica- 
go, levies seem to have been made upon 
every nation and country. Yet this di- 
versity is unfriendly to the growth of 
prejudices, which acquire such rankness 
in older communities, while it releases 
the hold of the caste, and arbitrary sys- 
tems. Man comes to be regarded as 
man. The mind is disposed to receive 
readily, and to appreciate fully, great 
truths in morals and science, and this 
dis])osition pervades not a part, but the 
whole of society. " We are Illinois," 
was proudly said by the aborigines, to 
to the first white man with whom they 
came in contact upon the soil, which 
meant in their language, " We are men." 
Tliose who now occupy their places par- 
take of this spirit. 

Springfield. — This town, the capital 
of Illinois, is ninety-five miles from St. 
Louis, and nearly in the centre of the 
state. It is situated four miles south of 
Sangamon river, on the margin of a 
wide and fertile prairie, and has had a 
rapid growth since it was first laid out, 
in the year 1822. But thirty families 
were residing on the spot the following 
yeai', when there were no habitations 
better than log-cabins. 

It is now a large, handsome, and 
flourishing town, containing 6,000 in- 
habitants, and a fine, large statehouse, 
a courtliouse, market, bank, land-office, 
three high-schools, several large manu- 
factories, and eight churches. Railcars 
run daily for Meredosia, and three stage- 
coaches go to Quincy. Stage-routes lie 
in several other directions — for St. Lou- 
is, Chicago, Lafayette (Indiana), Terre 
Haute, Shawneetown, Burlington (Iowa), 
Lexington, &c. 

Jacksonville. — This town, thirty- 
three miles from Springfield, is on a 
beautiful and fertile prairie, and con- 
tains a courthouse, market, lyceum, me- 
chanics' association, two academies, sev- 
en churches, and a population of about 
3,500. It has a daily communication 
with the capital and Meredosia by the 
railroad. 

Illinois College, situated at Jackson- 
ville, has eight professors in the academi- 



cal and medical departments, and about 
one hundred students. The libraries 
of the institution contain two thousand 
five hundred volumes, and the philo- 
sophical and chymical apparatus are 
complete and valuable. The commence- 
ment is held on the last Thursday of 
June. 

Alton is situated on the east side of 
the Mississippi river, two miles above 
the mouth of the Missouri, and twenty- 
one miles below that of the Illinois. It 
is twenty miles distant from St. Louis. 
The town is regularly laid out, the 
streets are broad and straight, and it 
contains six churches, a lyceum, a bank, 
mechanics' association, and a population 
of 6,000. The place is one of the best 
for commercial purposes on the Mis- 
sissippi, having a good landing-place, 
formed by a flat rock, with a rich coun- 
try around it ; and timber, coal, free- 
stone, and limestone, abound in the vi- 
cinity. Steamboats keep up a constant 
communication with the towns on the 
Mississippi, the Illinois, the Missouri, 
and the Ohio ; and stage-coaches run 
to Vincennes and Jacksonville. 

Kaskaskia, on the right bank of the 
river of that name, is one hundred and 
forty-two miles from Springfield, and 
seven from the Mississippi. It was set- 
tled about the year 1683, by the French, 
and a large portion of the population is 
of that origin. It contains two churches, 
a bank, a land-office, and about two 
thousand inhabitants. It is on the de- 
cline. 

Shawneetown, about two hundred 
miles from Springfield, and. ten below 
the mouth of the Wabash, stands on 
the Ohio, on an acclivity, but not high 
enough to be safe, from the highest 
floods in the river. It was laid out in 
1814, and is one of the best places for 
trade in that part of the state. 

Our vignette represents a spot well 
known to travellers on the western wa- 
ters. This remarkable natural curios- 
ity is situated on the Ohio river, a few 
miles below Shawneetown. The ap- 
proach to it, as you descend the stream, 
is picturesque. Bold bluffs running out 
into the current, diversified here and 
there with green valleys opening be- 



556 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



tween, afford a constantly varying scene 
of rock, meadow, and midland. Above 
and below the cave are high precipices 
of limestone, principally covered with 
cedars. The scenery still retains much 
of the wild aspect it wore before civil- 
ization had intruded on it, and when 
nothing broke the silence of the travel- 
ler's voyage except the dip of his oars, 
the scream of the eagle, or the whoop 
of the hostile savage. 

The entrance to the cave is nearly 
semicircular, and is on a level with the 
river when the latter is high. The pas- 
sage is about twenty feet in altitude, 
and, a few yards from the mouth, leads 
into a spacious apartment about twenty 
feet in height, one hundred and twenty 
feet in length, and of a breadth nearly 
equal. In the roof is seen an opening, 
which, if report speaks true, leads into 
an upper room, remarkable for its nat- 
ural ornaments. The passage leading 
to it may be compared to a chimney; 
but few persons have enough of the 
spirit of adventure to attempt an en- 
trance. The natural fretwork on the 
walls is said to give them the appear- 
ance of Gothic ornaments. 

At one end of the cave is a deep hole, 
which has never been explored or fath- 
omed to its termination. Its direction is 
downward, and the undertaking of a 
descent would be hazardous. Stones 
thrown in are heard to strike the rocks 
far below, after the lapse of several 
seconds. 

About the close of the last century 
this cave was the habitation of a band 
of robbers, whose leader, named Mason, 
headed them in attacks upon boats and 
arks, as they drifted down the Ohio. In 
some cases the crews weie not only 
robbed and ill treated, but even mur- 
dered. The criminals and their retreat 
becoming known, however, the gang 
were attacked in the year 1797, and 
broken up, so that peaceful navigators 
have not since been interrupted in that 
neighborhood. 

Vandalia, on the right bank of Kas- 
kaskia river, was formerly the capital of 
the state. The streets are regular, and 
the place has a handsome appearance. 
It contains two churches, a land-office, 



and several manufactories. The popu- 
lation is about 800. Here is the termi- 
nation of the national road. Stao-e- 
coaches go daily to St. Louis and Cape 
Girardeau. 

Peoria, on the right bank of the Illi- 
nois river, at the outlet of Peoria lake, 
is seventy miles from Springfield. The 
first bank of the river is fif)m six to 
twelve feet above high-water mark, and 
is a quarter of a mile wide. Beyond it 
rises the second bank, which is five or 
six feet higher; and this extends to the 
bluffs, whicli are from sixty to one hun- 
dred feet high. Here are six churches, 
several manufactories, a courthouse, and 
about 2,.''300 inhabitants. 

Gai.kna. — Tliis town, so mtimately 
connected with the mining and trade in 
lead, is situated on the La Fevre, or 
Bean river, six miles from its mouth, 
and one hundred and fifty-eight miles 
from Chicago. Steamboats of the lar- 
gest size go up to the town at all 
seasons, and the amount of exj)orts is 
annually very large, especially in the 
staple article, lead. It contains five 
churches, and a population of about* 
8,000. The first settlement was made 
in the year 1826. Stage-coaches go 
daily to Chicago, and three times a 
week to several other places. In 1S4G 
the arrivals of steamboats were three 
hundred and thirty-three, amounting to 
fifty-eight thousand, five hundred and 
seventy-five tons. 

The exports, in 1850, were as follows : 
Lead, 072,620 pigs, worth S2,225,000 ; 
copper, S22,000 ; lumber, §100,000 ; 
hides, S14, 800; wheat, 150,000 bushels. 

Rock Island City is a small town on 
the Mississippi river, a little above the 
mouth of Rock river. The population 
is now about 2,000. 

Bkm.evillk, fourteen miles from St. 
Louis, is the seat of justice for St. Clair 
county, and contains three large flour- 
mills, and various other manufactories. 
One half of the population of the town 
and county are industrious Germans. 
The number of inhabitants was 1,207 in 
1840, and is now about 2,800. 

Rock Fort. — This is a prominent bluff 
on the left bank of Illinois river, and 
rendered doubly interesting by an In- 



558 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATR OF ILLINOIS. 



dian tradition. It is about two hundred 
and fifty feet high, with steep, precipi- 
tous sides, wholly inaccessible in all 
parts except one, and presenting a pe- 
culiar striped appearance, caused by a 
number of stx'ata of sandstone, of differ- 
ent shades, running in a horizontal di- 
rection. With the wide prairie on one 
side, and the river, flowing through it, 
on anothei', the perpendicular sides of 
this remarkable eminence rise like an 
immense watchtower, or rather castle — 
a work of gigantic hands ; while, at the 
places where the neighboring range of 
higliland is connected with it by a nar- 
row ridge, a little path conducts the 
stranger to the summit, with great toil 
and difficulty. 

There he finds a level spot, about 
thi'ee fourths of an acre in extent, over- 
grown with young trees, many of which 
stand upon an ancient ditch and a mound, 
which appears to have once served as a 
breastwork round the circuit of this nat- 
ural fort. In the soil are remains of 
mussel-shells, pottery, and stones, that 
appear to have been heated; and the 
views from the edge of the precipice 
are extensive and delightful. 

Strong and almost inaccessible, this 
natural battlement has been still further 
fortified by the Indians, and many years 
ago was the scene of a desperate con- 
flict between the Pottawatomies and a 
band of the Illinois Indians. The latter 
fled to this place for refuge from the 
fury of their enemies. The post could 
not be carried by assault, and tradition 
says that the besiegers finally succeeded, 
after many repulses, by cutting off the 
supply of water ; to procure which, the 
besieged let down vessels, attached to 
ropes of bark, from a part of the preci- 
pice which ovei'hangs the river ; but 
their enemies succeeded in cutting off 
these ropes as often as they were let 
d(jwn. The consequence was a surren- 
der, which was followed by a total ex- 
tirpation of the band. 

The channel of the Mississippi is con- 
stantly shifting, and the only safe chart 
is the lead. The pilots, most of them, 
know every nook and corner of the 
river, and can judge by the surface cur- 
rent when the channel has shifted. The 



cause of this shifting is the strono- cur- 
rent, nearly four miles an hour, which 
M^ears away a point of land here and 
there, washing the earth and trees out 
into the old channel and creating a new 
one. The mosquitoes at the " wood- 
up" stations come on to the steamer in 
swarms, and nothing but a strong breeze 
will .drive them off. But little land has 
been cleared on the banks of the Missis- 
sippi. With the exception of Louisiana, 
which is pretty generally cultivated, and 
a few cities and towns scattered like 
guide-boards to civilization, through the 
wilderness, there is nothing but forest 
for over twelve hundred miles. Yet the 
soil looks rich, and is so, and only needs 
the axe of the pioneer to make the whole 
country a garden. 

The river navigation of the great west 
is the most wonderful on the globe, and, 
since the application of steam-power to 
the propulsion of vessels, possesses the 
essential qualities of open navigation. 
Speed, distance, cheapness, magnitude 
of cargoes, are all there, and without 
the perils of the sea from storms and 
enemies. The steamboat is the ship of 
the river, and finds in the Mississippi 
and its tributaries the amplest theatre 
for the diffusion of its use, and the dis- 
play of its power. Wonderful river, 
co!inected with seas by the head and 
by the mouth — stretching its arms tow- 
ard the Atlantic and the Pacific — lying 
in a valley, which is a valley from the 
gulf of Mexico to Hudson's bay — draw- 
ing its first waters, not from rugged 
mountains, but from the plateau of the 
lakes in the centre of the continent, and 
in communication with the sources of 
the St. Lawrence and the streams which 
take their course north to Hudson's 
bay — draining the largest extent of the 
richest land — collecting the products of 
every clime, even the frigid, to bear the 
whole to a genial market in the sunny 
south, and there to meet the products of 
the entire world. Such is the Missis- 
sippi ! And who can calculate the ag- 
gregate of its advantages, and the mag- 
nitude of its future commercial results i 

Many years ago, the late Governor 
Clark and others undertook to calculate 
the extent of the boatable water in the 



I' 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



559 



valley of the Mississippi, and made it 
about fifty thousand miles, of which thir- 
ty thousand were computed to unite 
above St. Louis, and twenty thousand 
below. Of course they counted all the 
infant streams on which a flat, a keel, or 
a batteau, could be floated — and justly, 
for every tributary, of the humblest boat- 
able character, helps to swell not only 
the volume of the central waters, but of 
the commerce upon them. Of this im- 
mense extent of river navigation, all 
combined into one system of waters, 
St. Louis is the centre, and the entrepot 
of its trade, presenting even now, in its 
infaTicy, an astonishing and almost in- 
ci-edible amount of commerce, destined 
to increase annually. It is considered an 
inland town. Counting by time and 
money, the only true commercial meas- 
ure of distances, and St. Louis is nearer 
to the sea than New Orleans was before 
the steam-towboat abridged the distance 
between that city and the mouth of the 
Mississippi. St. Louis is a seaport as 
well as an inland city, and is a port of 
delivery by law, and lias collected fifty 
thousand dollars of duties on foreign 
imports during the current year; and 
with a liberal custom would become a 
great entrepot of foreign as well as of 
d-omestic commerce. With the attri- 
butes and characteristics of a seaport, 
she is entitled to the benefit of one, as 
fully and as cleai'ly as New York or New 
Orleans. 

At a distance of 1,400 miles from the 
gulf of Mexico, is a new starting point 
for a further inland navigation to the 
north, of 1,000 miles by the Mississip- 
pi ; to the west, of 2,000 by the Mis- 
souri ; to the northeast, 1,000 by the 
Wisconsin, and 400 by the Illinois ; and 
to the east, 1,200 by the Ohio. Through 
all of these and their countless tributa- 
ries, is the mighty west continually pour- 
ing out its teeming products to the sea- 
board. Through the Mississippi alone, 
only one of the outlets of this valley, there 
will probably be transported to a mar- 
ket more than $100,000,000 in the sur- 
plus agricultural products of last season, 
and that not an abundant one. If such 
ai'e the results of a single half century's 
enterprise, by the surplus progeny of a 



people numbering but little more than 
3,000,000 at its commencement, what 
must be the results of future centuries 
of similar enterprise, with the accumu- 
lating ratio of our skill and population ? 

In going up the Mississippi from the 
mouth of the Missouri", we take a final 
leave of the muddy waters that mar the 
beauty of the stream, the whole distance 
to the gulf. The Illinois is a miniature 
Mississippi, especially at its lower ex- 
tremity ; while higher up, its numerous 
bluffs, now approaching and now re- 
ceding from the banks, remind one of 
the bolder scenery between its mouth 
and the Ohio. The banks, which are 
generally from six to twelve feet above 
low water, are frequently overflowed 
through a great part of their course. 
They descend from the edge of the river 
to lowland, or swamps, in their rear, 
evidently marking this valley as a delta 
formation. The conformation of the 
remote or primitive banks of this river, 
and those of the Aux-Plaines, one of its 
principal tributaries, which flows within 
eight miles of Lake Michigan, indi- 
cate conclusively that they formerly dis- 
charged a vastly larger body of water 
than they now contain. It is conjec- 
tured, and with a good deal of proba- 
bility, that they were once the outlet of 
one or more of the large northern lakes, 
and possibly those of Michigan, Huron, 
and Superior. If this were the case, we 
can conceive of no adequate cause short 
of the upheaval of the western shore of 
Lake Michigan, which should have sent 
the waters that formerly met the Atlan- 
tic at Cape Sable, in latitude twenty- 
five degrees, through the gulf of St. Law- 
rence, that communicates with the ocean 
at its northern outlet in fifty-two de- 
grees. 

Most of the banks of the Illinois are 
densely wooded ; after ascending about 
one hundred miles above its mouth, how- 
ever, the prairies frequently come down 
to the edge of the water. Peoria is 
beautifully situated on one of these, two 
hundred miles from the outlet of the 
river, whose rolling bank, ascending in- 
land, rises twenty feet above the water, 
which here expands to a tiny lake. The 
town of Henry, a few miles above and 



560 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



on the same western bank, is similarly 
situated, but on a higher bank, and the 
prairie stretches off sixty miles toward 
the Mississippi. 

There are numerous small thriving 
towns along the stream, which are al- 
ready the depots for immense quantities 
of corn, wheat, flour, pork, beef, &c. 
Some fifteen or twenty small steamboats 
are employed with the traffic and pas- 
sengers on this river, besides scows and 
flatboats that are used in freighting the 
produce. Two of the latter, each capa- 
ble of carrying one thousand barrels of 
flour, were loading at Hennepin, some 
three hundred miles above St. Louis. 
There are numerous steam saw and flour- 
ing mills on the banks, by which lumber 
and grain are largely manufactured, the 
latter only to any extent for exportation. 

From Peru to Chicago, one hundred 
miles, the course is over fertile and un- 
dulating prairies, most of which, though 
unoccupied a dozen years ago, are now 
under cultivation and thickly studded 
with tasteful villages. 

Mount Joliet. — Mr. Schoolcraft, in his 
travels in the central portions of the 
Mississippi valley, gives us an account 
of his visit to this place. It is a hill or 
mound, a few miles from Fox I'iver, and 
near Lisbon, on an immense prairie. It 
is about 1,300 feet long, 225 broad, and 
60 high ; oblong at the base ; and covers 
500,000 square feet. It is far from any 
other elevation, and is conspicuous from 
a great distance on every side, com- 
manding views in all directions which 
are bounded only by the horizon. We 
give an extract from Mr. S. : — 

" We entered the strip of woods which 
form a margin to the Aux Sables, one 
of the tributary streams of the Illinois, 
during the most intense heat of the day, 
and enjoyed its refreshing shade for a 
few moments. Ten miles beyond this 
pellucid little river, we halted, and dis- 
mounted in the plains, and made a short 
excursion on foot to Mount Joliet. This 
monumental elevation takes its name 
flora Sieur Joliet, who was sent by M. 
Talon, the intendant of New France, to 
accompany Father Marquette, in his 
search of the Mississippi, in the year 
1673. They entered this stream through 



the Wisconsin, and then followed its 
current. It is not certain how far they 
descended, but it is evident they passed 
the junction of the Missouri, and some 
assert that they went to the mouth of 
the Arkansas. On their return to Can- 
ada, they followed up the Illinois, and 
have left us the first notice of this mound, 
which they ascended. 

" Any prominent swell in the surface 
of the soil would appear interesting and 
remarka!)le in so flat a country, but this 
would be considered a very striking ob- 
ject of curiosity in a region of inequali- 
ties. It is, strictly speaking, neither a 
mountain nor a hill, but rather a mound, 
and the first impression made by its reg- 
ular and well-presei'ved outlines is that 
of a work of art. This alluvial struc- 
ture is seated on the plains, about six 
hundred yards west of the present chan- 
nel of the river Des Plaines, but imme- 
diately upon what appears to have been 
the former bank of this river. Its figure, 
as seen at a distance, is that of a cone 
truncated by a plane parallel to the base, 
but we find, on approaching, its base de- 
scribes an ellipsis. Its height we com- 
puted to be sixty feet. Its length is 
about four hundred and fifty yards, and 
its width seventy-five yards. These 
measurements have relation only to the 
top. Its base is of course much larger. 
The sides have a gradual and regular 
slope, but the acclivity is so great that 
we found the ascent laborious. There 
are a few shrubby oak-trees on the west- 
ern side ; but every other part, like the 
plain in which it stands, is covered with 
grass. The materials of this extraor- 
dinary mound are, to all appearance, 
wholly alluvial, and not to be distin- 
guished from those of the contiguous 
country from which, it would appear, 
they have been scooped out. It is firmly 
seated on a horizontal stratum of sec- 
ondary limestone. The view from this 
eminence is charjning and diversified. 
The forests are sufficiently near to sei"ve 
as a relief to the prairies. Clumps of 
oaks are scattered over the country. 
The lake Joliet, fifteen miles long and 
about a quarter of a mile wide, lies in 
front. There is not perhaps a more no- 
ble and picturesque spot for a private 



562 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



mansion in all America. Few persons 
will choose to pass it without devoting 
an hour to its examination ; and few 
will, perhaps, leave it without feeling a 
conviction that it is the work of human 
hands. It has been remarked by Dr. 
Beck, that this is probably the largest 
mound within the limits of the United 
States." 

Emigration. — We have introduced 
here two illustrations, exhibiting a fam- 
ily emigrating to the west. The one 
opposite is a day scene, in which is seen 
the emigrant, with a gun upon his shoul- 
der, and his faithful dog by his side, 
leading the way, followed by a single 
horse and wagon, bearing his family, 
and perhaps all his earthly possessions. 
It is a picture of but one among thou- 
sands who leave the endearments of 
home, the luxuries of cultivated and 
commercial regions, teeming with pop- 
ulation, for the wilds of the west. The 
rough road, the umbrageous forest, the 
gushing stream, and the treeless prairie, 
are no impediments to deter him from 
his purpose of finding some eligible 
spot where he may pitch his tent, rear 
his cabin, sow his seeds, and reap rich 
harvests, thus forming a nucleus for a 
thriving community and finally a new 
state to be added to the confederacy — a 
new star to our national banner. How 
many, very many, in humble life, have 
thus left the Atlantic states, where they 
were scarcely known amid the multi- 
tude, pitched their tents upon the virgin 
soil of the Mississippi valley, where the 
foot of the white man had never before 
trodden, and in a few years found them- 
selves surrounded with all the comforts 
of life, called upon to take an active 
part in the political affairs of the state 
or territory wherein they had settled, 
and frequently again sent eastward to 
sit in the national council. There are 
many, very many, who " go to the west," 
with high anticipations of making speedy 
fortunes, without counting the cost. In 
their estimate of results they omit the 
many privations to which they will be 
exposed, and value too lightly the les- 
sons of experience read to them by 
predecessors. They forget, in their day- 
dreams of gain, that they are about to 



exchange a pleasant mansion for a 
cheerless log-cabin ; the privileges of 
social intercourse and religious associa- 
tion, for almost utter solitude ; and a 
life of eomparative ease for the most ar- 
duous physical labor. They look upon 
the bright tints of the picture, and sel- 
dom glance at the umber to which 
the finger of experience would point 
them. These are they who return from 
the west sadly disappointed in their 
hopes and expectations, and are for ever 
croaking about its unhealthy climate, 
barren soil, and other equally grievous 
complaints. But he who goes with the 
expectation of laboring hard, living pru- 
dently, managing wisely, and selects his 
locality with judgment, may be sure of 
receiving a bountiful return for his sac- 
rifices. 

There are millions of acres of land in 
our western states and territories, with 
a garden-like soil, that yet remain un- 
touched by implements of culture, which 
may be purchased at the government 
price (one dollar and a quarter per acre), 
where no greater objections to the cli- 
mate can be made than against any other 
sections of the Union ; and far better 
would it be for the individuals and the 
public, if the floating population of 
our cities would act wisely and suffer 
themselves to drift westward with what 
little pecuniary means they may have. 
Many foreigners will land upon our 
shores with sufl!icient ready money to 
purchase land enough to yield them a 
comfortable subsistence ; but instead of 
availing themselves of this advantage, 
they unwisely seek employment in our 
cities, soon spend their small means, and 
live year after year amid the miseries of 
hopeless poverty. 

The cost of transition from the Atlan- 
tic states to the fertile regions of the 
western states, is now quite trifling for 
so great a distance, and hence emigrants 
who come with some money in their 
pockets, have no excuse for enduring 
the miseries of obtaining a precarious 
existence in our cities. 

The second illustration, on page 565, 
represents the halt of the emigrant fam- 
ily for the night. They may be seen 
preparing their frugal meal, and arrang- 



564 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 



ing themselves for rest, to be ready at 
break of day to start again on their 
journey, cheered amid the privations and 
vicissitudes to which they are subject 
on their toilsome vvay, by the conscious- 
ness that each day lessens the distance 
between them and the land of promise, 
and that the fertile soil of the west will 
recompense them for all their troubles. 

Groictli of the West. — Tlie following 
remarks on this subject were made by 
a former resident of the west, now es- 
tablished in the profession of law in 
Portsmouth (N. If.), at a public meet- 
ing in Boston to take measures in rela- 
tion to the late Chicago convention : — 

•' I say you can not have been indif- 
ferent to the political strength of the 
west ; but have you, until quite recently, 
comprehended the vast commercial re- 
sources of that region ] 

" Of these you are now compelled to 
take notice. Every paper that comes 
to us, tells of the mighty energies of the 
west. One speaks of a line of canal- 
boats fifty-three miles in length ; another 
tells us a ship has just left Chicago, 
spreading its white sails to the western 
breeze, and that it is to find no rest for 
its keel until the flag of our country shall 
wave in the port of a foreign land ; an- 
other tells us that there are at this mo- 
ment ten millions of people in the great 
valley of the Mississippi. How can it be % 
we exclaim. Fifty-five years ago the 
first settler of Ohio (in the person of Dr. 
Culler, of Beverly, Mass.) bade adieu 
to his friends here, to go to a place upon 
which at present is built Marietta, a 
town which is now engaged largely in 
shipbuilding, for the commerce of the 
ocean. Michigan, thirty-five years ago, 
had scarcely an inhabitant; now, more 
than three hundred thousand warmhearts 
are beating upon her soil ; and her sons 
count up the profits of their ample fields 
in the year that is past, in eight millions 
of bushels of wheat. Such has been the 
growth of the whole west. A few years 
since, in a birchen canoe, I was paddled 
all along the shores of Wisconsin, from 
Chicago to Green bay — a distance of 
several hundred miles — seeing scarcely 
a white man. Last year it was my good 
fortune to cjo alonsf the same shore, and 



over the same waters, and I passed the 
large towns of Sheboygan, Southport, 
and Racine; and when far off, on the 
waters of Lake Michigan, I beheld the 
city of Milwaukie, looking like a sea- 
sybil with its ' tiara of proud towers.' 
But I can not, in the brief time allowed 
me, describe the change that has taken 
place in the lakes. The traveller may 
leave Buff'alo to-day, in one of the lake 
steamers, and in seventy-two hours the 
keel of his noble vessel shall scrape 
the golden sands of Illinois — nearly one 
thousand one hundred miles to the west- 
ward. His eye will have gazed upon the 
soil of five of the states of this Union, 
as well as upon the possessions of Queen 
Victoria. 

" In 1818 appeared the first steamboat 
upon the lakes ; now there are more 
than one hundred of the largest class ; 
and the Griflin, a vessel of seventy tons, 
launched by the daring La Salle, in 1769, 
has multiplied, until now the lakes are 
white with sails, and literally murmur 
with the rush of keels. The commerce 
of the lakes at this time may be safely 
estimated as worth one hundred and 
fifty millions of dollars per annum, re- 
quiring the constant employment of over 
three thousand sailors, as brave as ever 
dwelt on the ocean, and who would be 
as efficient if summoned to the gun- 
deck. The cities of Detroit and Buffalo 
have more tons of shipping afloat than 
are owned in the four planting states of 
North and South Carolina, Georgia, and 
Alabama ; and these are but two of the 
seven cities along the lakes. It is esti- 
mated that there are on the western wa- 
ters eight hundred and fifty steamboats, 
and that 13,440 persons are engaged 
in navigation. These are some of the 
random statistics that occur to me ; but 
we must remember that the statisties 
of 1844 will not serve as a basis of cal- 
culation in 1847. The growth of that 
region far outstrips the wildest imagina- 
tion of the poet, who has said : — 
" ' A thousand years scarce serve to form a state.' 

" We behold them in our day leap- 
ing from our western forests into the 
bosom of this confederacy, almost be- 
fore we can give them a ' habitation and 
a name.' " 




Missouri is one of the largest 
states in the Union, covering an area 
of C9,100 square miles; some com- 
pute it as high as 70,000. It extends 
from 36^ to 40° 30' north latitude, 
and from 11° 45' to 17° 30' west lon- 
gitude. To form some idea of its 
extent, we have only to reflect that 
the Mississippi washes five hundred 
miles of its eastern boundary, while 
the Missouri runs more than five 
hundred miles along its western bor- 
der, and through its centre. It is 
bounded north by Iowa, south by 
Arkansas, and west by Indian territory. The banks of each of these rivers are 
dotted all along with towns, rapidly growing into importance by the commerce of 
its waters. Besides these great highways of trade, there are the Osage, Gasco- 
nade, and Grand rivers, navigable for one or two hundred miles within its borders. 
The great prairie, which extends over Indiana and Illinois, stretches through Mis- 
souri on to the Rocky mountains, interspersed, in this state, with heavy bodies of 
timber along its numerous water-courses. The soil, climate, and productions, are 
like those of most of the western states. 

Generally, where the country is too rough and barren to be cultivated, there are 
inexhaustible mines of lead, copper, and iron. In connexion with these mineral 
ores, there are vast beds of coal, the great moving power of the world, the indis- 
putable index of approaching greatness. It is woi'thy of remark, that within a 
few miles of the eastern border of Missouri is the first place west of Wheeling 
where this article is found in large bodies. All along the Missouri, on both sides, 
it is found in abundance. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



567 



The sickness of Missouri is a promi- 
nent hinderance to its growth. Although 
there have been prevailing sicknesses, the 
number of deaths by no means corre- 
sponds to the extent of the disease. In- 
termittent fever, the almost universal 
ff)rm of sickness, is little understood by 
the scientific, and is cured by specifics 
whose " modus operandi " is still shroud- 
ed in mystery. Nearly all who emigrate 
to this state have to undergo acclima- 
tion. Congestion sometimes supervenes, 
and the disease in this stage often proves 
fatal. Young men seldom suffer fiom 
this stage, unless they have been very 
imprudent in exposing themselves to its 
causes. Strange as it may seem, it is 
ofben the means of removing chronic 
complaints and establishing the health 
of the patient. And after enduring a 
thorough seasoning, they are seldom 
attacked again. 

The importance of Missouri, from its 
agricultural resources, and vast mineral 
wealth, the large population it is calcu- 
lated to sustain, from its peculiar advan- 
tageous commercial situation, is beyond 
calculation. Situated at the confluence 
of two of the mightiest rivers that wa- 
ter any continent, draining more than 
half of the territory of the United States 
— how vast the resources of this region 
when peopled by teeming millions ! 
Where is the centre that is to have the 
greatest influence in this great valley ? 
The Roman catholic bishop of St. Louis 
has more ecclesiastics under his control 
than any other in the country. The 
only university they have within the 
United States is at St. Louis. 

The mineral wealth of the southwest 
is greater than many would imagine. 
Capital and skill, properly applied, will 
develop resources of wealth undiscovered 
and now slumbering in unknown beds. 
It may not be generally known that 
Murphy and M'Clurg have now a smelt- 
ing establishment in full and successful 
operation, where they are enabled to 
supply any demand for lead which the 
country can possibly require. 

Lead abounds in various parts of the 
southwest, but particularly in the vicin- 
ity of those waters which are tributary 
to White river. Much capital might be 



profitably employed in opening and 
working these mines. But the great 
misfortune is the obstruction in the nav- 
igation of the rivers. There are the Os- 
age on the north. White river on the 
southeast, and the Neosho or Grand 
river on .the west, draining an extensive, 
rich, and fertile country, with but few 
equals in mineral and agricultural wealth. 
These streams, with the improvement 
of which they are susceptible, would 
open an outlet to market at seasons of 
the year when the more northern out- 
lets are closed. 

Missouri has increased rapidly in pop- 
ulation, improvements, and wealth. Its 
tobacco, which is one of its staples, is 
quoted at the highest rates in the Euro- 
pean markets. Hemp is an article of in- 
creasing giowth and of the first quality. 

The population of Missouri in 1771 
(by Hutchings), was 850 ; in 1804 (by 
Stoddard), 10,340; in 1810 (including 
Arkansas), 19,833 ; in 1820, 66,586; in 
1830, 140,074 ; in 1840, 383,702 ; in 
1850, 684,132. 

Towns and cities along the waters of 
the Missouri, above "Boone's Lick" 
settlement, are inci'easing. The state is 
subdivided into 101 counties. 

The River Missouri. — The Missouri 
is one of the largest rivers in America, 
so famous for the greatness of its streams. 
Its principal branch rises in the Rocky 
mountains, in about the latitude of forty- 
three degrees and thirty minutes north, 
and the one hundred and twelfth degree 
of western longitude : its head spring is 
said to be not more than one mile dis- 
tant from the source of another great 
rivei' — the Columbia — which flows in a 
contrary direction into the Pacific ocean. 
This branch has been termed by the 
American travellers. Captains Lewis and 
Clarke (who explored the whole course 
of the Missouri), Jefferson's river, in com- 
pliment to Mr. Jefferson, who was then 
president of the United States ; and three 
of its tributaries have, in the same spirit, 
been dignified with the appellations of 
Philosophy, Philanthropy, and Wisdom. 
When Jefferson's river has run a course 
of about two hundred and seventy miles, 
it is joined by two others, called Galla- 
tin's and Madison's, after the statesmen 



568 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI 



SO named ; and their united waters flow 
together for nearly three thousand miles, 
under the name of Missom-i, until they 
pour themselves into the channel of the 
Mississippi. 

At the distance of about one hundred 
and eighty miles from this junction — or 
of four hundred and fifty miles from the 
source of the Jefferson branch — the river 
escapes from among the Rocky mount- 
ains, and loses the character which, till 
shortly previous, it had borne through- 
out, of a foaming torrent. The spot at 
which it emerges, is remarkable for the 
sublimity of its scenery; for nearly six 
miles, precipitous masses of rock rise 
perpendicularly from the water's edge, 
to the height of nearly twelve hundred 
feet. " They are composed," says the 
official narrative of Lewis and Clarke, 
" of a black granite near its base, but 
from its lighter color above, and from 
its fragments, we suppose the upper 
part to be flints of a yellowish brown 
and cream color. Nothing can be ima- 
gined more tremendous than the frown- 
ing darkness of those rocks, which pro- 
ject over the river, and menace us with 
destruction. The river, of three hun- 
dred and fifty yards in width, seems to 
have forced its channel down this solid 
mass, but so reluctantly has it given way, 
that during the whole distance the water 
is very deep, even at the edges, and for 
the first three miles there is not a spot, 
except one of a few yards, in which a 
man can stand between the water and the 
towering perpendicular of the mountain. 
The convulsion of the passage must have 
been terrible, since at its outlet there 
are vast columns of rock torn from the 
mountain, which are strewed on both 
sides of the river, the trophies, as it 
were, of the victory. Several fine springs 
burst out from the chasms of the rock, 
and contribute to increase the river, 
which has now a strong current ; but 
very fortunately we are able to over- 
come it with our oars, since it would be 
impossible to use either the cord or the 
pole. This extraordinary range of rocks 
we called the Gates of the Rocky 
mountains." 

About one hundred and ten miles 
from this tremendous chasm, the " Falls 



of the Missouri" occur; and for the 
space of seventeen or eighteen miles, the 
river presents a succession of rapids and 
cataracts. At the " Great fall," as the 
largest of these is termed, it is three 
hundred yards wide ; and for about a 
third of this breadth, the water rolls in 
one smooth, even sheet, over a precipice 
of nearly ninety feet in height. The 
remaining portion of the stream precipi- 
tates itself with a more rapid current, 
and being broken in its fall by project- 
ing rocks, " forms a splendid prospect 
of perfectly white foam, two hundred 
yards in length," with " all that glory of 
refracted light, and everlasting sound, 
and infinity of motion, which," to use 
the words of a modern writer, "make a 
great waterfall the most magnificent of 
all earthly objects." The fall which is 
next in height, is perhaps a more i"e- 
markable object still. It extends com- 
pletely across the rivei', where its width 
is at least a quarter of a mile ; " the 
whole Missouri," says the narrative of 
Lewis and Clarke, " is suddenly stopped 
by one shelving rock, without a single 
niche, and with an edge as straight and 
regular as if formed by art," over which 
the volume of its waters is pi'ecipitated 
" in one even, uninterrupted sheet, to 
the perpendicular height of fifty feet, 
whence, dashing against the rocky bot- 
tom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving be- 
hind it a spray of the purest foam. The 
scene which it presented was, indeed, 
singularly beautiful, since, without any 
of the wild, irregular sublimity of the 
lower falls, it combined all the regular 
elegances which the fancy of a painter 
would select, to forra a beautiful water- 
fall." 

From the falls down to the very 
mouth of the Missouri — a distance of 
more than two thousand five hundred 
miles — there is no obstacle to the navi- 
gation of this river, but what arises from 
the rapidity of its current. In this long 
course, its waters are increased by the 
junction of many other streams, both 
great and small : among the largest are 
the Yellow Stone, La Flatte, Kansas, 
and Osage, the first of which is one 
thousand' eight hundred and eighty, and 
the last one hundred and thirty-three 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



569 



miles above the union with the Missis- 
sippi. It would be difficult to comprise 
in any general description, the charac- 
teristics of a river so extensive in its 
course, and fed by so many various 
streams ; still, the Missouri is sufficiently 
powerful to give to all its waters some- 
thing of a uniform character — and one 
extremely remarkable. Its prodigious 
length, its uncommon tui'bidness, its im- 
petuous and wild character, and the sin- 
gular country through which it runs, im- 
part to it a natural grandeur belonging 
to the sublime, " We have never crossed 
it," says Mr. Flint, " without experien- 
cing a feeling of this sort, nor without a 
stretch of the imagination, to trace it 
alono" its immense distance, throuo:h its 
distant regions, to the lonely and stu- 
pendous mountains from which it 
springs." 

The Mississippi is remarkable for the 
clearness of its waters, which are of a 
light blue, not unlike the hue of the deep 
seaj or of the Rhone at Geneva. The 
Missouri, on the other hand, is described 
as being " nearly as thick as pea-soup," 
and of a dirty muddy-whitish color. A 
glassful of the former appears as clear 
as any spring-water ; one of the latter 
is perfectly turbid, " worse than the 
rain-puddles on a highway-road," and in 
a few minutes deposites a stratum of 
mud ; yet this turbid water, according 
to Mr. Flint, after the settlement of the 
whitish earth, which soon falls down, is 
remarkably pure, pleasant, and healthy ; 
and another American geographer says, 
that it is more easily preserved cool, and 
fit to drink, than other waters are. The 
surface of the Mississippi, above the 
junction, is generally clear of drift-wood, 
while that of the Missouri is all covered 
with naif-burnt logs, trees with their 
branches torn off, and great rafts or 
floating islands of timber, drifted from 
the interior, sweeping and whii-ling 
along at a furious rate. 

The Missouri enters the Mississippi 
from the westward, nearly at right an- 
gles to it ; and such, says Captain Hall, 
is the impetuosity of its current, that it 
fairly divides the Mississippi even to the 
left or eastern bank. " There were lit- 
erally," he says, " not above ten or 



twelve yards of clear water on that side 
of the river, while all the rest was mud- 
dy. The line of actual contact was par- 
ticularly interesting ; it seemed as if the 
dirty Missouri had insinuated itself un- 
der the clear Mississippi, for we saw it 
boiling up at a hundred places. First, 
a small curdling white spot, not bigger 
than a man's hand, made its appearance 
near the surface ; this rapidly swelled 
and boiled about, till, in a i'ew seconds, 
it suddenly became as large as a steam- 
boat, spreading itself on all sides in gi- 
gantic eddies or whirlpools, in a man- 
ner that I hardly know how to describe, 
but which was amazingly strikinf^. At 
other places the two currents ran along, 
side by side, without the least intermix- 
ture, like oil and water ; but this sepa- 
ration never continued long, and the 
contaminating Missouri soon conquered 
the beautiful Mississippi — indeed, the 
stain is never got rid of (ov one moment, 
during the twelve hundred miles that 
the united stream runs over, before it 
falls into the gulf of Mexico." 

The Missouri carries down a great 
quantity of sand; this, with the aid of 
what is derived from the neighboring 
banks, forms sand-bars (as they are 
called), projecting into the river. 'By 
forcing the stream toward the oppo- 
site bank, these sand-bars aid materially 
in the process of undermining its loose 
texture, yet they are themselves con- 
stantly removing. Travellers mention 
an instance in which this shifting char- 
acter was likely to have produced seri- 
ous results. A party had encamped 
upon one of these sand-bars, and in the 
middle of the night, the sergeant on 
guard alarmed them by crying that it 
was sinking. " We jumped up," say 
they, " and found that both above and 
below our camp the sand was under- 
mined and falling in very fast; we had 
scarcely got into the boats and pushe i 
off, when the bank under which we had 
been lying fell in, and would certainly 
have §unk the two perioques (open 
oared boats), if they had remained there. 
By the time we reached the opposite 
shore, the ground of our encampment 
sunk also." This incident occurred as 
they were making the ciixuit of the 



570 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



Great Bend. From the shifting of these 
sand-bars the bed of the Missouri is con- 
stantly changing ; a chart of the river as 
it runs this year, says Mr. Flint, gives 
little ground for calculation in naviga- 
ting it the next. The change, however, 
is not confined to its bed ; the rapid and 
sweeping current of this river is con- 
stantly undermining its banks, large 
masses of which frequently fall in. The 
soil through which it flows is of a very 
loose texture, and the waters are per- 
petually scooping away the banks at one 
place, and depositing mud and drift- 
wood at others. Lewis and Clarke 
mention two spots, at some distance 
lower down than the junction with the 
Platte, at which a portion of the cliff or 
hill, in each instance nearly three quar- 
ters of a EPiile in length, and in one two 
hundred feet in height, had fallen com- 
pletely into the stream. " We reach," 
they say, in another passage, " a very 
narrow part of the river, where the 
channel is confined within a space of 
two hundred yards, by a sand point on 
the north and a bend on the south, the 
banks in the neighborhood washing 
away, the trees falling in, and the chan- 
nel filled with buried logs." Only a 
short distance from the mouth of the 
Missouri, as they were passing near the 
southern shore, the bank fell in so fast 
as to oblige them to cross the river in- 
stantly, between the northern side and 
a sand-bar which was continually mo- 
ving with the violence of the current ; 
the boat struck on it, and would have 
upset immediately, if the men had not 
jumped into the water and held her till 
the sand washed from under her. 

It has been contended by some, that 
from the length of the Missouri, the vol- 
ume of its waters, and the circumstance 
of its communicating its own character 
in every respect, to the Mississippi be- 
low the junction, it ought to be consid- 
ered as the main river, and to impart its 
name to the united stream dudng its 
course to the sea. Malte Brun states it 
to be now known that the Missouri is 
the principal branch, and has the better 
claim to the magnificent title of "Father 
of Waters," which the Indians have 
conferred upon the smaller one ; and 



Balbi, a still more recent authority, has 
a similar remark. An American geog- 
rapher, however, Mr. T. Flint, remarks, 
in opposition to this claim, that the 
valley of the Missouri seems in the 
grand scale of conformation to be sec- 
ondary to the Mississippi — that the Mis- 
souri has not the general direction of the 
lower portion of the Mississippi, but, on 
the contrary, joins it at nearly right an- 
gles — that the valley of the Mississippi 
is wider than that of the Missouri, and 
the river broader — and that the course 
of the river, and the direction of the val- 
ley, are the same above and below the 
junction. " From these," he says, " and 
many other considei'ations, the ' Father 
of Waters' seems fairly entitled to his 
name." Captain Hall also supports the 
claim of the more direct river of the 
two, to give its name to the joint cur- 
rent. 

Missouri has every description of soil 
and of surface, from mountainous and 
rocky ridges, dense and rolling forests, 
beautiful undulating prairies, extensive 
tracts of inferior rugged soil, and low 
inundated swamps. Extensive districts 
in the counties of Jefferson, Franklin, 
Washington, St. Francis, Madison, Craw- 
ford, and the adjacent regions, are vast 
mineral regions, and abound in lead, 
ii-on, copper, and a variety of other 
minerals. 

St. Genevieve is the oldest town and 
permanent settlement in Missouri. The 
village church was situated two miles 
from the river (with its extensive " com- 
mon field" of several thousand acres in 
front on the river, extending along its 
rich bottom land), and was commenced 
about 1751. On the arrival of Laclede, 
in 1763, "it Was a town of some note," 
and the point to which the lead was 
brought from the mines in the interior 
on deposite. The landing on the river 
was at a rocky bluff two miles above. 

The lead mines of Missouri were dis- 
covered by Philip Francis Renault and 
M. de la Motte, agents under a branch 
of the "Company of the West." La 
Motte discovered the mines that go by 
his name, on the waters of the St. Fran- 
cis. Renault left France in 1719, with 
two hundred artificers and miners, to ex- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



571 



plore the Illinois, and the adjacent coun- 
try on both sides of the Mississippi. 

Jefferson City, the capital of the 
state, is situated on the light bank of the 
Missouri rivei", on elevated and uneven 
ground, one hundred and twenty-eight 
miles from St. Louis. It contains the 
statehouse, penitentiary, an academy, 
and about four thousand inhabitants. 

Government. — The constitution of 
this state was formed by a convention 
at St. Louis, in June, 1820. In Janua- 
ry, 1846, a new constitution was formed 
by a state convention at Jefferson ; which 
was submitted to the people on the first 
Monday of August in the latter year, and 
rejected. The constitution adopted in 
1820, is therefore still in force, and the 
outlines thereof are as follows : — 

The legislative power is vested in a 
senate and house of representatives, 
styled together the General Assembly. 
The senatoi's, in number not fewer than 
fourteen, nor more than thirty -three, shall 
be thirty years old, have the qualifica- 
tion of representatives, be inhabitants of 
the state for four years, and shall be 
chosen by districts, for four years, one 
half every second year*. The represent- 
atives, in number not more than one 
hundred, shall be chosen in counties 
every second year; they must be free 
white male citizens of the United States, 
twenty-four years old, inhabitants of the 
state for two years and of the county for 
one year next before the election. Ev- 
ery free white male citizen of the United 
States, twenty-one years old, resident in 
the state one year befoi'e the election, 
and three months in the place where he 
offers his vote, may vote at elections. 

The elections are held biennially, on 
the first Monday in August. The legis- 
lature meets every second year, on the 
first Monday in November, at the city 
of Jefferson. 

Tlie executive power is vested in a 
governor, who is elected by the people, 
fur a term of four year's, and is ineligible 
for the next four years. A lieutenant- 
governor is also chosen, for the same 
term, who is, ex officio, president of 
the senate. They must be thirty-five 
years old, natives of the United States, 
or citizens thereof at the adoption of tlie 



constitution. The governor may veto a 
bill, but a majority of both houses may 
pass it, notwithstanding his veto. If the 
office of governor be vacant, it shall be 
filled by the lieutenant-governor, and 
after him by the president of the senate 
pro tern. 

The supreme court consists of three 
judges, appointed by the governor and 
senate, and has appellate jurisdiction 
only. Circuit courts have exclusive 
criminal jurisdiction, unless deprived of 
it by law, and hear all civil cases not 
cognizable by a justice of the peace. 
The equity jurisdiction is divided be- 
tween the circuit and supreme courts. 
Judges of the supreme court must be 
thirty years old, may hold office until 
sixty-five, and may be removed upon 
address of two thirds of both houses of 
the legislature. 

One bank, and no more, may be es- 
tablished, with not more than five branch- 
es, and a total capital of not more than 
five millions of dollars, one half, at least, 
reserved to the state. 

The general assembly, by a vote of 
two thirds of the members, may propose 
amendments to the constitution, and if, 
at the first session thereafter, they are 
confirmed by a vote of two thirds of the 
members, they become part of the con- 
stitution. 

St. Louis was founded by Laclede, 
Maxam, & Co., Feb. 15, 1764. Laclede 
obtained from M. D'Abadie, " director- 
general, and civil and military com- 
mandant of the pi'ovince of Louisiana," 
under the French government, a grant, 
in 1762, for the exclusive privilege to 
trade with the Indians in Missouri, and 
those west of the Mississippi above the 
Missouri, as far north as the St. Peter's. 
He fitted out an expedition and started 
from New Orleans August 3, 1763, and 
on the third day of November, after a 
three months' voyage in keel-boats, 
reached St. Genevieve. He proceeded 
to Fort Chartres, stored his goods, and 
remained for the winter in that vicinity. 
Laclede was associated with Madame 
Choteau, the wife of a Frenchman in 
New Orleans, and had her two sons, 
Angijste and Pierre, young lads, with 
him. In February, 1764, Laclede with 



572 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



the young Choteaus and others, started 
to search out a spot for their projected 
trading post. St. Louis, eighteen miles 
below the mouth of the Missouri, was 
the spot selected and named. Several 
families of Cahokia accompanied La- 
clede. The first ti'ading-house and cab- 
ins were erected near the river, on the 
spot of the centre market-house. A skirt 
of timber, tall oaks without under-brush, 
beautiful as auEnglisli park, skirted the 
river, while immediaiely in the rear an 
undulating prairie extended into the 
country for ten miles. The soil at the 
river was based on stratified limestone, 
forming a rock formation for four miles 
in extent. The ground ascended in a 
gradual slope for three or four hun- 
dred yards ; when at an elevation of 
sixty or eighty feet, it continued in an 
undulating form for ten or fifteen miles 
into the interior. Springs broke out in 
various places, affoi'ding delicious wa- 
ter. Nature never formed a plateau of 
ground more admirably adapted to the 
site of an immense city. The river op- 
posite, now one and one third of a mile 
in width, from the washing away of the 
deep alluvion that forms the Illinois 
shore, was then so narrow that persons 
could be heard distinctly from bank to 
bank. Such was the site of St. Louis 
eighty-seven years gone by. Pierre 
Choteau, one of the boys who accom- 
panied Laclede, was still living, and at 
the age of nearly one hundred years, 
pi-esided at the great meeting held in 
February, 1847, in honor of the found- 
ing of the city. 

The transfer of the Illinois country 
from the French to the British govern- 
ment, by the treaty of 1763, which was 
consummated by a change of govern- 
ment in 1765, caused many of the in- 
habitants of Cahokia, Kaskaskia, and 
Fort Chartres, to remove to the new 
village west of the great river. A secret 
treaty had conveyed Louisiana to Spain, 
but a transfer of government did not 
take place till 1769. During this time 
St. Louis grew fast. 

In April, 1785, the Mississippi rose 
to the height of thirty feet above the 
highest water mark then known, ovei'- 
flowed the whole of the American bot- 



tom, deluged the villages of Cahokia and 
Kaskaskia, desti'oyed a considerable por- 
tion of the walls of Fort Chartres, and 
was never equalled except by the great 
flood of 1844. St. Louis (except at the 
landing) is at least fifty feet above these 
highest floods. The year 1785 is styled 
by the old French people, " L'Annee des 
g7-a?ides eaux" — the year of the great 
waters. 

From 1769, or rather 1770, St. Louis, 
with the whole province of upper and 
lower Louisiana, was under the govern- 
ment of Spain, though French customs, 
language, and population, prevailed. 

By the treaty of St. Ildefonso, Octo- 
ber 1, 1800, under stipulated conditions, 
Spain retroceded Louisiana to France, 
and in December following, the transfer 
was made by the proclamation of M. 
Laussat. April 30, 1803, Louisiana was 
sold by the French government to the 
United States, for fifteen millions of dol- 
lars, and on the ninth of March, 1804, 
Major Amos Strtddard took possession 
of Upper Louisiana, and hoisted the 
American flag at St. Louis. 

The first newspaper printed west of 
the Mississippi, was ihe " Missouri Ga- 
zette," by the late Joseph Chaross. It 
was on a sheet of " cap" paper, and 
dated July 12, 1808. A book of laws 
of the territory was printed the same 
year. The Missouri Gazette was the 
progenitor of the Missouri Republican, 
now published daily, tri-weekly, and 
weekly. 

The second paper was started by a 
company of gentlemen in 1815. It was 
called " The Western Emigrant," and 
in 1818, the St. Louis Enquirer, and for 
several years edited by Colonel Thomas 
H. Benton, late of the United States 
senate. 

The first steamboat that ever ascend- 
ed the Mississippi above the mouth ot 
the Ohio, and reached St. Louis, was a 
small boat called the " General Pike," 
which reached St. Louis, August 2, 1817, 
commanded by Captain Jacob Reed. 
The second steamboat was the " Con- 
stitution," commanded by Captain R. 
P. Guyard, which arrived October 3d, 
the same year. 

The " Western Engineer," a keel- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



574 



boat with a steam-engine and stern- ' 
wheel, was the first steamboat to ascend 
the Missouri river, in April, 1819. It 
accompanied the scientific expedition 
under Mnjor S. H. Long. The next 
sieamboat that ascended the Missouii 
was the " Independence." Ca])tain Nel- 
son, that reached Franklin, in the Boon's 
Lick country. May 19, 1819. This was 
followed by the " Calhoun," and the 
" President," two other steamers, which 
attempted to take troops and military 
stores to the " Council Bluffs," estab- 
lished that year. Neither boat reached 
the mouth of the Kansas. 

A voyage fiom New Orleans to St. 
Louis in keel-boats, before the introduc- 
tion of steam, was from thiee to four 
months. In 1819, a voyage by steam- 
boats was from twenty-five to thirty 
days. Of late it has been run in less 
than four days ! — usually from six to 
ten days. 

The city of St. Louis is the hase of 
navigation of all the upper Mississippi 
and its tributaries, the Missouri and its 
tributaries, and the head of navigation 
for the larger boats from the Ohio and 
the lower Mississippi. Here are now 
concentrated the trade of the upper Mis- 
sissippi, the Missouri, and the Illinois 
rivers, and a large portion of that of the 
Ohio and the lower Mississippi. From 
a mere fur-trader's post, it has grown 
to be the second commercial city in the 
great central valley. It is now the 
greatest steamboat port, next to New Or- 
leans, in the toorld. In capital, com- 
merce, and active business, it is in ad- 
vance of any city on the Ohio river. 

The government business, and various 
extra branches of trade in St. Louis, are 
> greater than in any other city in the Uni- 
ted States — as the military and contract 
department — the Indian agency business 
— tho Indian and. Spanish trade (before 
the war) — the trapping business to the 
Bocky mountains — the fur trade, &c., &c. 

The United States government has an 
arsenal two miles south of the city, which 
consists of stone buildings and extensive 
stone walls, of great value and durability. 
Jefferson barracks are twelve miles south 
of the city, and constantly occupied by 
United States troops whether in war or 



peace, capable of accommodating two 
regiments. The two comprise a govern- 
ment property equal to $1,750,000, and 
the permanent improvements are on the 
increase and will be for many years to 
come, as from this point all the military 
stores ajid forces must go out to the 
wide regions of the west, southwest, and 
northwest. During the Mexican M'ar, 
there were manufactured at the arsenal, 
gunpowder, munitions, and other ord- 
nance stores, amounting to over twelve 
hundred tons, and at a cost of several 
millions of dollars; between four hun- 
dred and five hundred tons of shells and 
shot — about seven millions of cartridges 
for small arms ; all which furnished em- 
ployment to about six hundred hands. 

St. Louis has a United States sub- 
treasury, superintendency of Indian af- 
fairs, surveyor-general's office, and cus- 
tomhouse, and is the general military 
depot for all the vast region of the west. 

Population. — On this subject there 
has been a most serious mistake in all 
the published statistics since 1840. At 
thai time the chartered limits of the city 
did not extend over one third of its 
present area. Nearly half of the popu- 
lation lived out of the chartered limits, 
and the population of this portion, in 
the United States census, was placed 
under the head of the county. The pop- 
ulation of the chartered limits was only 
16,469 — but the population then within 
the present chartered limits would have 
equalled 26,000. 

The followuig table shows the popu- 
lation at various periods : — 



Year. 


Pop n. 


Year. 


Pop'n. 


1804, 


800 


1835, 


10,500 


1810, 


1,400 


1837, 


15,300 


1815, 


1,800 


1840, 


26,000 


1820, 


4,598 


1844, 


34,140 


1828, 


5,000 


1845, 


36,255 


1830, 


5,853 


1846, 


47,833 


1833, 


8,397 


1850, 


82,744 



The discrepancies between the year 
1840 and the United States census are 
explained above. The number for 1850, 
is by the United States census. 

Lots in the business part of the city 
sell from S300 to $500 per linear fooi. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



575 



in front — toward the suburbs, from $5 
to $60 per linear foot. 

There are in the city of St. Louis, 
about fifty churches, a courthouse, two 
hospitals, two orphan asylums, several 
brass and iron foundries, two universities, 
two medical colleges, many splendid 
hotels (one of which, the " Planter's 
blouse," is not exceeded by any in the 
United States), and public and private 
6chof)ls and academies. And here we 
may incidentally remark, that its public 
schools are hardly exceeded by those of 
any city in the Union. Among the 
public buildings the catholic cathedral, 
with a fine peal of six bells, and the court- 
house, are the most noticeable. There 
are also in the city an elegant theatre 
and a concert-hall. 

The courthouse, though incomplete, 
is not exceeded in the west, and is situ- 
ated on the most elevated ground, and 
commands one of the finest prospects, 
from its immense cupola. The city is 
supplied with water from the river, which 
is elevated by steam to a reservoir con- 
sti'ucted on an immense ancient mound, 
and situated above the highest build- 
ings ; and should its population (destined 
as it is, to become one of the largest cit- 
ies in the United States) require it, Mer- 
imac river, larger than four Croton riv- 
ers, of pure, delicious water, can be 
brought from the distance of twenty 
miles, to an unlimited extent, for all 
purposes, including that of manufactures, 
on an immense scale. 

There is a floating dock, and a rail- 
way for the repair of steamboats. Fi"om 
forty to fifty steamboats are daily moored 
to the wharves, and many of them of 
the largest size. 

Edina, the county seat of Knox coun- 
ty, is located in a rich and beautiful 
section of country, about forty miles 
from Tully and Canton. 

Memphis, the county seat of Scotland 
county, is one of the loveliest locations 
for an inland town in Missouri. It is 
located in a rich prairie, surrounded 
by beautiful groves of forest trees, the 
most attractive of which is a white-oak 
in the town, the top of which resembles 
in shape the top of an umbrella: it is 
not high, and the top measures up- 



ward of three hundred feet in circum- 
ference. 

Bethel, is the name of a village five 
or six miles north of Shelbyville, in 
Shelby county. It is located on North 
river, and populated by a body of Ger- 
mans, who live together on the common 
stock system. They have a splendid 
steam-mill in operation (which grinds 
and saws extensively), a tanyard, and 
workshops of various kinds ; the build- 
ings are neat, and comfortably ar- 
ranged. 

Tliey have a farm of several hundred 
acres in a superior state of cultivation. 
The body consists of several hundred 
persons, all Germans, who appear to be 
comfortable and happy. 

Tully and Canton. — These two 
towns are located on the west bank of 
the Mississippi, about forty miles above 
Hannibal, in a beautiful prairie bottom, 
three quarters of a mile in width, and 
rich beyond description. They are 
within half a mile of each other. Six or 
eight counties in Missouri, and a large 
scope of country on the Illinois side of 
the river, trade at that point. 

St. Charles, twenty miles west from 
St. Louis, occupies a commanding situa- 
tion, on the left bank of the Missouri, at 
a place where a rocky shore gives place 
to a low alluvial region just below. The 
appearance of the town from the water 
is imposing, as it extends about a mile 
and a half along the bank of the river. 
The principal buildings are the court- 
house, market, nunnery, and two church- 
es. The population amounts to about 
1,000. Stage-coaches start every day for 
St, Louis and Jefferson City, and three 
times a week for Burlington, Illinois, 
through New London. 

St. Charles College. — This is a meth- 
odist institution, founded in 1839. It 
has about one hundred students. 

Palmyra, eight miles from Missouri 
river, is one hundied and twenty-nine 
miles distant from St. Louis, and has 
1,200 inhabitants. There are three 
churches, built of brick, a courthouse, 
and a land office. Stage-coaches go to 
St. Louis three times a week. 

Masonic collegeis an institution found- 
ed in 1831, It is situated twelve miles 



576 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



from Palmyra, and has about fifty stu- 
dents. 

Fulton. — This town stands on Ri- 
viere aux Vases, twenty-two miles east 
of Jefferson City, and twelve north of 
the Missouri. It has about 800 inhab- 
itants, with two academies, two churches, 
and a courthouse. 

CoLUMHTA is a town of about 2,000 
inhabitants, on a branch of the Missouri. 

Missouri university situated in Co- 
lumbia, was founded in 1840, and has 
three professors and about fifty students. 

BooNEViLLE, one hundred and seventy- 
three miles from St. Louis, is situated 
on the bank of the Missouri, on a founda- 
tion of limestone rock, and contains a 
population of about 1,800. Cattle and 
provisions are here supplied in consid- 
erable quantities, and the trade of the 
place is active. A communication by 
land with Jefferson City, Independence, 
and Columbia, is maintained by stage- 
coaches, which run three times a week. 

Glasgow. — This town, situated one 
hundred and seventy-two miles from St. 
Louis, contains 800 inhabitants, several 
large stores, and two churches. 

Independence, six miles distant from 
the Missouri, is two hundred and nine- 
ty-two from St. Louis, and contains 
about 900 inhabitants. The place is 
important as the point from which the 
overland emigrants to California start, 
with their long trains of wagons. Of 
course it is often the scene of much 
business. 

Liberty is a town about three times 
the size of Independence, two hundred 
and seventy-six miles from St. Louis. 
It stands on the bank of the Missouri, 
and has five churches, a courthouse, and 
two academies. Daily coaches run to 
St. Louis, passing through Glasgow, 
Columbia, and Fulton. Others go three 
times a week to St. Joseph. 

St. Joseph, four hundred and seven- 
ty-eight miles from St. Louis, contains 
2,000 inhabitants, and is a place of con- 
siderable trade, with large storehouses, 
&c. It stands on the Missouri, and, 
like the other towns so situated, is vis- 
ited by steamboats. 

The town commences at the foot of a 
high bluff, just at the upper extremity of 



the Seven-mile prairie bottom, which 
lies between the range of the " Black 
Snake hills" and the river. One of the 
said ranges of hills lies in about the 
centre of the town plat, and is about 
seventy-five feet above the level of the 
river. They are mostly destitute of 
trees, but covered with grass. From 
their base gushes forth the purest water. 
The country around this thriving village 
is equal to any in Missouri. 

Springfield, two hundred and fifty- 
eight miles from St. Louis, stands on 
the head streams of James's fork of 
White river. The population is about 
500. There is a land-office here. 

Cape Girardeau, one hundred and 
thirty-four miles below St. Louis, is one 
of the river towns, standing on the right 
bank of the Missouri. 

St. Marj/s college, founded here in 
1830, has five professors, and about two 
thousand five hundred volumes in its 
libraries. The commencement is held 
on the last Thursday of August. 

New Madrid, on the right bank of 
the Missouri, is two hundred and forty- 
seven miles below St. Louis, at a bend 
of the river, where the ground is eleva- 
ted, but gradually undermined by the 
stream. The population is about 800, 
By land, a stage communication is kept 
up three times a week with Cape Gi- 
rardeau. 

Hannibal. — This place is situated 
north of St. Louis, at the distance of 
one hundred and sixteen miles, and con- 
tains several manufactories, as well as 
stores, of considerable size, and a popu- 
lation of 1,20('. 

PoTOsi is another small but busy 
town, lower down, sixty-seven miles 
from St. Louis. It stands in the rich 
mining district in that part of the state, 
and an active business is done in iron, 
lead, and copper. It has 900 inhabitants, 
with four churches, &c. 

Lexington, one hundred and twenty- 
four miles from Jefferson City, is on the 
right bank of the Missouri, and has about 
2,000 inhabitants. There are three 
churches, a land-office, and an academy. 
Stage-coaches start three times a week 
for St. Louis, passing through Jefferson 
City. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



577 



Bujaloes and Elks. — The accompa- 
nying engraving affords a fine view of 
such a scene as is very common on our 
extensive uninhabited westei'n regions. 
Extending his migrations to the north- 
ward, as the summer advances, the buf- 
falo (or bison, as he is more correctly 
named) passes successfully over the 
hunting-grounds of several different na- 
tions of Indians, all on the alert to dis- 
cover, pursue, and slaughter him for his 
valuable skin, as well as to make food 
of his flesh. 

The buffalo is a very timid animal, 
and shuns the vicinity of man with the 
keenest sagacity; yet, when overtaken, 
and harassed or wounded, turns upon 
its assailants with the utmost fury, who 
have only to seek safety in flight. In 
their desperate resistance the finest hor- 
ses are often destroyed ; but the Indian, 
with his superior sagacity and dexterity, 
generally finds some eftective mode of 
escape. 

During the season of the year while 
the calves are young, the male seems to 
stroll about by the side of the dam, as 
if for the purpose of protecting the 
young, at which time it is exceedingly 
hazardous to attack them, as they are 
sure to turn upon their pursuers, who 
often have to fly to each other's assist- 
ance. The buffalo-calf, during the first 
six months, is red, and has so much the 
appearance of a red calf in cultivated 
fields, that it could easily be mingled 
and mistaken among them. In the fall, 
when it changes its hair, it takes a 
brown coat for the winter, which it al- 
ways retains. In pursuing a large herd 
of buffaloes at the season when their 
calves are but a few weeks old, the 
hunter is often exceedingly amused with 
the curious manoeuvres of these shy lit- 
tle things. Amid the thundering con- 
fusion of a throng of several hundreds or 
several thousands of these animals, there 
will be many of the calves that lose sight 
of their dams, and being left behind by 
the throng and the swift-passing hunters, 
they endeavor to secrete themselves, 
when they are exceedingly put to it on 
a level prairie, where naught can be 
seen but the short grass of six or eight 
inches in height, save an occasional bunch 



of wild sage, a few inches higher, to 
which the poor affrighted things will lun, 
and, dropping on their knees, will push 
their noses under it, and into the grass, 
where they will stand for hours, with 
their eyes shut, imagining themselves 
securely hid, while they are standing up 
quite straight upon their hind feet, and 
can easily be seen at several miles' dis- 
tance. It is a familiar amusement for 
those accustomed to these scenes, to re- 
treat back over the ground where they 
have just escorted the herd, and ap- 
proach these little trembling things, 
which stubbornly maintain their posi- 
tions, with their noses pushed under the 
grass, and their eyes strained upon their 
pursuers, as they dismount from their 
horses and pass around them. From this 
fixed position they are sure not to move 
until hands are placed upon them, and 
then for the shins of a novice we can 
extend our sympathy ; for if he can pre- 
serve the skin on his bones from the 
furious buttings of its head, we know 
how to contrratulate him on his sigfnal 
success and good luck. In these des- 
perate struggles, for a moment, the lit- 
tle thing is conquered, and makes no 
further resistance. " I have often," says 
a writer, " in concurrence with a known 
custom of the country, held my hands 
over the eyes of the calf, and breathed 
a few sti'ong breaths into his nostrils; 
after which 1 have, with my hunting 
companions, rode several miles to our 
encampment, with the little prisoner 
busily following the heels of my horse 
the whole way, as closely and as affec- 
tionately as its instinct would attach it 
to the company of its dam. This is one 
of the most extraordinary things that I 
have met with in the habits of this wild 
country." 

The elk was one of the most useful 
animals to the Indians, in those regions 
where it abounds. It is a large, and 
sometimes a rather formidable animal, 
though its first impulse is to escape, 
when it discovers tlie approach of man. 
Elks abounded in New England at the 
first settlement ; and they have been 
hunted within half a century, or a little 
more, among the White hills of New 
Hampshire. It is the largest of the 



37 




=ii 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF MIfiSOURI 



579 



deer tribe ; hvt fossil animals of the 
kitid, found in tbe earth in several pla- 
ces in Europe, far exceed it in size. 
The form is far from graceful, and the 
gait in running is remarkably awkward, 
owing, apparently, to the great weight 
of the horns. The head is carried in a 
horizontal position, the neck is stretched 
out straight forward, and the pace or 
trot throws the body from side to side 
with a rollino; motion. When brought 
to bay, it sometimes makes dangerous 
blows with its heavy and projecting 
horns. 

The flesh of the elk is esteemed for 
food, but is less common in the west 
than buifalo meat. 

Hujiting the Buffalo. — There are sev- 
eral modes and several different weap- 
ons by which the buffalo is slain by the 
Indians of different tribes, and at differ- 
ent seasons. The gun is not, however, 
preferred, so generally, as might be ex- 
pected, nor so extensively adopted as it 
might be. Several of the nations in the 
western plains are excellent bowmen, 
and are furnished with bows and arrows, 
which serve them admirably against 
these swift and powerful animals. It 
is a well-established fact, that an arrow 
sent by a strong and dexterous hand, 
and striking at a favorable instant be- 
tween the ribs, occasionally passes 
through the body of the buffalo, and 
falls to the ground beyond him. When, 
therefore, we recollect the shortness and 
lightness of the bow (the best of which 
are only three or four feet in length), 
and rapidity with which aiTows can be 
thrown (sometimes an Indian in sport 
will keep ten arrows in the air at a 
time), we may perceive that the use of 
this simple weapon is not retained with- 
out reason. 

The Camanches, on the borders of 
Texas, often prefer their lances, in the 
chase as in war; riding up by the buf- 
falo's side, and with a sudden, sidelong 
thrust, penetrating his heart. Passing 
on, another and another is thus mortally 
wounded, and several are seen dying at 
once, from blows inflicted in rapid suc- 
cession, by one weapon. 

The lasso is used by some tribes in 
certain circumstances ; and, when not 



in immediate use, the long cord is some- 
times allowed to drag behind on the 
ground, so that if the horseman is acci- 
dentally dismounted, he may seize it 
and recover his steed and his seat. 

Mr. Catlin frives the followins de- 
scnption of other methods sometimes 
practised : — 

In the dead of winter, which is very 
long and severely cold in this country, 
where horses can not be brought into 
the chase with any avail, the Indian runs 
upon the surface of the snow by the aid 
of his snow-shoes, which buoy him up, 
while the great weight of the buffaloes, 
sinks them down to the middle of their 
sides, and, completely stopping their 
progress, insures them certain and easy 
victims to the bow or lance of their pur- 
suers. The snow in these regions often 
lies, during the winter, to the depth of 
three or four feet, being blown away 
from the tops and sides of the hills in 
many places, which are left bare for the 
buffaloes to graze upon, while it is drift- 
ed in the hollows and ravines to a veiy 
great depth, and rendered almost entirely 
impassable to all these huge animals, 
which, when closely pursued by their 
enemies, endeavor to plunge through it, 
but are soon wedged in and almost una- 
ble to move, where they fall an easy 
prey to the Indian, who runs up lightly 
upon his show-shoes and drives his lance 
to their hearts. The skins are then 
stripped off, to be sold to the fur-traders, 
and the carcasses left to be devoured by 
the wolves. This is the season in which 
the greatest number of these animals is 
destroyed for their robes — they are ea- 
sily killed, at this time, and their hair or 
fur being longer and more abundant, 
give greater value to the robe. 

The Indians generally kill and dry 
meat enough in the fall, when it is fat 
and juicy, to last them all winter; so 
that they have little other object for this 
unlimited slaughter, amid the drifts of 
snow, than that of procuring their robes 
for traffic with the traders. The snow- 
shoes are made in a great many forms, 
of two and tlu'ee feet in length, and one 
foot or more in width, of a hoop or hoops 
bent around for the frame, with a net- 
tina: of web woven across with strinirs 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF MISSOURI. 



581 



of raw hide, on which the feet rest, and 
to which they are fastened with straps 
somewhat like a skate. With these the 
Indian will glide over the snow with 
astonishing quickness, without sinking 
down, or scarcely leaving his track 
where he has gone. 

The poor buffaloes have their enemy, 
7)ian, besetting and besieging them at 
all times of the year, and in all the 
modes that man in his superior wisdom 
has been able to devise for their destruc- 
tion. They struggle in vain to evade 
his deadly shafts, when he dashes among 
them over the plains on the wild horse 
— they plunge into the snow-drifts where 
they yield themselves an easy prey to 
their destroyers, and they also stand 
unwittingly and behold him, unsuspect- 
ed under the skin of a white wolf, in- 
sinuating himself and his fatal weapons 
into close company, when they are 
peaceably grazing on the level prairies, 
and shot down before they are aware of 
their danger. 

The Elkhorn Pyramid. — This re- 
markable object, represented in the 
vignette at the head of the description 
of this state, is to be seen on Two-Thou- 
sand-Mile river, one of the branches of 
the Missouri, so named by Lewis and 
Clarke, at that distance from its mouth 
in the Mississippi. The surrounding 
country is an extensive level, called the 
Prairie a la Corne de Gerf. The numer- 
ous paths made in all directions through 
the artemisia bushes, indicate an abun- 
dance of elk and deer, which roam free- 
ly through the broad and fertile pas- 
tures there offered them by nature. 

It has long been the practice with the 
Indians, to collect some of the cast-off 
horns of those animals from the vicinity 
of the spot, and add them to a heap, 
which was commenced at some unknown 
period. A few buffalo-horns are min- 
gled with the rest. Mr. Bodmer, who 
visited and examined it, describes the 
heap as sixteen or eighteen feet in 
height, and twelve or fifteen in diameter, 
and probably containing about twelve 
or fifteen hundred horns. He found 
great difficulty in disentangling a large 
horn with fourteen antlers, so compactly 
are all parts of this fabric laid together. 



He made a drawing of the pyramid be- 
fore leaving the spot, from which that in 
the vignette has been reduced. Every 
hunting and war party that passes near 
the spot makes an addition to the heap, 
probably under some superstitious idea. 

Missouri Iron Mountains. — There are 
two or three iron mountains, situated 
not far distant from each other, and 
forty or fifty miles west of the Missis- 
sippi. One of them is seven hundred, 
and the other over three hundred, feet in 
height, above the surrounding plain. 

The iron with which they abound is a 
peroxyde, consisting of twenty parts 
iron, and fourteen parts oxygen — thus 
constituting a very rich ore of iron. As 
you approach either of these mount- 
ains, and before you get to it, you find 
lumps and masses of this form of iron, 
scattered much like the stones of New 
England. Advancing, you find the mas- 
ses in larger numbers and gi'eater size ; 
and so on up the mountains, till you ap- 
proach their summits, where you find 
one vast capping to the mountain of 
these iron rocks and stones, whose 
depths have never been explored. 

Of course, how far they go down we 
do not know, nor what proportion of the 
substance of these mountains is iron, 
but we perceive the quantity there to 
be immense, almost beyond calculation ; 
enough to supply the whole human race, 
even under the present vast consimip- 
tion of iron, with the metal for ages to 
come ! The base and sides of the 
mountains are thickly and beautifully 
wooded ; even after you come to the 
immense cappings with which the 
mountains are rounded off, you find the 
trees everywhere shoot up among those 
iron rocks, although you can discover 
scarce a trace of soil. 

These vast deposites of ore, so long 
discredited, although repeatedly asserted 
to exist, are doubtless destined to con- 
tribute a large share of that material, so 
important to every branch of art, and so 
indispensable an article to civilization. 
Distance, the thinness of the population, 
and other circumstances, have hitherto 
prevented the extensive reduction of the 
ore. But the increase of inhabitants 
will make a rapid change. 




Iowa is bounded north by the 
Minnesota territory, east by the Mis- 
sissippi river, which separates it from 
Wisccjnsin and Illinois, south by 
Missouri, and west by Missouri riv- 
er, which separates it from Nebras- 
ka. It lies between 40° 20' and 43° 
north latitude, and 90=* 20' and 96° 
50' west longitude, with a length of 
about two hundred and fifty-six 
miles, a medium breadth of one hun- 
dred and ninety-eight, and an area 
of about fifty thousand nine hundred 
square miles. 
The state is well watered by numerous navigable rivers and streamlets flowing 
into the Mississippi and Missouri rivers which bound the state. The piincipal 
of these are the Red Cedar and Iowa, and the Des Moines, which emply into the 
Mississippi. The rivers falling into the Missouri are comparatively unimportant. 
Up to the year 1836, Iowa and Wisconsin, as well as Michigan, were embraced 
in the territory of Michigan. 

Iowa was Indian territory as lately as in 1832, except a claim at Du Buque's 
mines. About five hundred persons, chiefly miners, had entered and labored on the 
Dubuque tract two or three years previously. The first emigrants who made 
farms in this now growing state, entered the territory in February, 1833, in the 
settlement a few miles back of Burlington, The first Christian church gathered 
was a baptist one, in 1834. 

The growth of Iowa has been more rapid than that of any other western state. 
Its population now equals 200,000. It will soon be one of the great states of the 
west No countiy on the globe is better situated for farming purposes. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF IOWA 



583 



TowA City, the capital of Iowa, on 
the left bank of the river of the same 
name, at the head of navii^ation, is thir- 
ty-one miles from Muscatine, and en- 
joys a pleasant situation. The number 
of inhabitants is about 3,000. The pub- 
lic buildings are the capitol, courthouse, 
and several churches. Stage-coaches 
go three times a week to Burlington and 
Rock Island, Indiana. 

The capitol is a fine building, chiefly 
in the Doric style, with a dome rising 
from the centre on twenty-two Corin- 
thian columns. 

Burlington. — This flourishing town 
stands on the Mississippi, two hundred 
and twenty-two miles above St. Louis. 
The situation is pleasant and pictu- 
resque, on a rising ground, stretching up 
toward a range of hills which almost 
surround it. The streets run at equal 
distances and at right angles. The 
population is about 6,000. Daily com- 
munication is had by steamboats with 
near and distant river towns above and 
below, and by stage-coaches three times 
a week with Dubuque, &c. Burlington 
was oi'iginally the capital of Iowa, and 
contains many fine public buildings. 
The site was formerly known as the 
Flinr-halls, an old Indian trading post, 
and was the residence of the celebrated 
Indian chief Black Hawk, whose re- 
mains are buried here. 

Muscatine (formerly Bloomington) 
ninety-six miles south of Dubuque, is 
one of the most thriving towns in the 
state. Population, at the present time, 
about 4,000. 

Keokuk, a few miles north of the 
mouth of the Missouri, is becoming 
rapidly a place of importance, and has, 
of late years, increased in population 
and wealth, perhaps more than any other 
town in the state. It has a large com- 
merce, and many advantages in situation 
and topography, which must ultimately 
make it a most flouiishing mart. The 
present population is about 5,000. 

Some years ago an ancient wall of 
large dimensions was discovered, at 
what is now called Azatlan, in Wiscon- 
sin, between the Four lakes and Mil- 
waukie. The antiquarian may now find 
an additional field for his researches in 



Iowa. In Lee county, about ten miles 
from Burlington, a stone wall was acci- 
dentally discovered on the farm of Mr. 
William Heiter, while he was sinking 
posts for a fence. 

It is about two feet wide, two feet 
deep, and laid regularly, the stone lap- 
ped after the fashion of foundation 
walls. It appears to have been the 
foundation of some ancient building or 
superstructure of square dimensions, 
about twenty-two feet either way. It is 
on the highest point of the prairie, the 
ground receding from it in every direc- 
tion. Not a stone or a pebble except 
those in the wall, can be found in half a 
mile of the jilace. Most of it is now 
uncovered, and a part of the northern 
wall removed. There is a middle or 
partition wall. Many of the stones are 
greatly decayed. 

Dubuque is also a river-town, and is 
four hundred and twenty-six miles from 
St. Louis, and three hundred and six 
from the falls of St. Anthony. The 
bank of the Mississippi is elevated and 
level for several miles above and below 
Dubuque, forming an advantageous po- 
sition for a town. There are about 
5,500 inhabitants. The public build- 
ings are five churches, a land-office, a 
bank, &c. 

Janesville. — In this fine town, the 
county seat of Rock county, numerous 
evidences of rapid and prosperous growth 
everywhere meet the eye. On both 
sides of the river many buildings are 
going up ; the streets are crowded with 
teams ; business of all kinds appears 
brisk, and there is an air of enter])rise, 
activity, and advancement, pervading the 
whole town, which must impress and 
surprise the most indifferent observer. 
Conspicuous among the buildings is a 
large flour-mill on the west side of the 
river. This substantial structure is 
eighty feet by fifty, five stories high, 
seventy feet from the ridge to the water- 
line, and rests upon solid stone-walls five 
and a half feet in thickness, designed for 
six run of stone. No ex{>e«se has been 
spared in making this mill ennol jq any 
in the western coun'^^-^. I'he total cost 
can not '^e ^«r fiom forty-five thousand 
dollars, liiven in a dry season there is 



584 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF IOWA, 



abundance of water, in the rock, at 
Janesville, to keep all the wheels of this 
mill in constant motion. 

One signiticant circumstance in the 
growth of Janesville (and this is equally 
true of almost all the towns and village 
in the territory) is, that the surrounding 
country has grown even more rapidly 
than the town. On Rock prairie somo 
two years since, for a distance of ten or 
twelve miles, the improvements were 
slight and the houses scarce. Now, the 
roatis are fenced in nearly their entire 
length, and bordered by improved farms 
under skilful cultivation, with comforta- 
ble tenements, and every appearance of 
an industrious and thriving poj)ulation. 
This is it which renders the growth of 
Janesville substantial as well as rapid, 
and which makes the increase and rapid 
improvement of the state a marvel in 
the history of civilized settlements. 

.1 Log Cabin and Saw- Mill. — One 
of the most useful of all " improve- 
ments" that can be introduced into a 
new district where timber is to be 
found, is a saw-mill ; and many an ex- 
tensive region has long suffered from 
the want of one. The deficiency is more 
frequently supplied, however, of late 
years, since settlements have been more 
fiecpiently undertaken by companies of 
capitalists. Under their care many 
conveniences are at once introduced, 
not within the reach of single emigrants 
or of a few poor families, whose pecu- 
niary means are apt to be exhausted 
before they reach their new homes, or 
who at least can not transport to so 
gi-eat a distance anything more than the 
most simple necessaries. 

But where capital is furnished, and 
preparatory measures taken, for the oc- 
cupation of a new point in the wildei"- 
ness, and the founding of a new town, 
the explorers first report all the neces- 
sary steps to be made, and plans are 
laid, tools, materials, and workmen, sent 
out, and constructions commenced be- 
fore the settlers arrive. And then one 
of the very first points secured is a mill- 
site, where a saw may be set in motion, 
and the neighboring forest-trees cut up 
into timber, plaidv, and boards. For 
this end a rapid stream must be found ; 



and, in extensive regions in our western 
prairies, this is not to be had. Such 
favored spots, therefore, in their neigh- 
borhood, as possess water-power, are 
rendered doubly important by the ex- 
tensive demand. 

The saw-mill, simple as it is, is inval- 
uable to a new settlement. Without it 
not a plank, board, timber, or other piece 
of wood, can be obtained, for any purpose, 
except by the laborious process of sawing 
by hand, or the still more laboiious one 
of hewing, more commonly resorted to. 
Many a table has been made, by slowly 
cutting a broad plaidc ovit of the middle 
of a log, with the axe alone; and the 
extreme d^culty of procuring wood in 
convenient forms, has long delayed the 
advance of society from the rudest state 
to a grade of coinfort woithy of the 
name of civilization. 

How different a state of things is im- 
mediately introduced by the busy mo- 
tion of the saw-mill ! The shapeless 
logs, felled in the neighboring forest, or 
brought down by the current of the riv- 
er, take every form desired ; and the 
tight frame-house rises, with all its su- 
perior advantages of floors, partitions, 
second stories, good doors, stairs, and 
furniture. In short, the saw alone 
adapts the rude trees of the woods to 
the convenient use of man. 

Dcscrijftion of a Prairie in Iowa. — 
" When for the first time," says a 
writer, " I stood ujion the edge of the 
prairie upon which I now reside, it was 
about noon of a beautiful October day. 
We emerged from the wood, and for 
miles around saw stretched forth one 
broad expanse of clear, open land. I 
stood alone, wrapt up in that peculiar 
sensation that man only feels when be- 
holding a broad, rolling prairie for the 
first time — an indescribable, delightful 
feeling. O, what a rich mine of wealth 
lay outstretched before me ! 

"No plough or spade has broken the 
sod for ages ; no magician has appeared 
with the husbandman's magic wand, and 
said to the coarse and useless grass 
that has grown for centuries, ' Be gone ; 
give place to the lovely Ceres with her 
golden sheaves.' 

" Little does one know or think, as 



586 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF IOWA. 



he digs in the corn among the stones of 
New England, what vast quantities of 
such land lie waste in the west, and 
how few are there to improve them; 
and what is worse, how indolent a great 
portion of that few are. Talk of the 
country being sickly ! why, the worst 
ej^idemic that ever raged in any country 
is that idleness which fixes itself, incu- 
bus-like, upon the whole population of 
an extraordinary fertile soil. 

" But who that ever undertook, ever 
satisfied his inquirers as to how a prai- 
rie looks while in a state of nature 1 The 
reason is that there is nothing analo- 
gous, to which one can compare it, in 
a thickly-settled country. But let the 
reader fancy the country with which he 
is best acquainted in an old settled 
region, entirely destitute of buildings 
or fences, or, in fact, any mark of civili- 
zation, with all the hills reduced so as 
to make a gently-rolling surface, the 
woodland to remain as it is, and the en- 
tire surfiice of cleared land covered with 
grass, that upon the upland thick and 
short, in the low lands one or two feet 
high, and in the swamps four or five 
feet, and he may have a very faint idea 
how a prairie looks. 

" Gently undulating, applies to all 
prairie countries within my knowledge. 
Sometimes, though rarely, hills occur 
that are too steep to cultivate conveni- 
ently, and sometimes rocky bluffs. But 
a general characteristic is destitution of 
stone. 

" The streams ha"ve generally muddy 
bottoms. The timlier in the groves or 
islands that abound throughinit this sea 
of grass, is most commonly short, and 
grows thin upon the ground, without 
underbrush, except at the edges, where 
tlie hazel-bush seems to be the advanced 
guard, and is constantly encroaching 
upon the prairie. There are large 
tracts of timber land called ' barrens,' 
which are about half way between prai- 
rie and timber land — the ti-ees standing 
apai't like an orchard, and the ground 
covered with grass, the sod of which is 
much less tough than that on the 
prairie. 

" One very prominent feature of a 
prairie is the constant and ever-varying 



fror 



sprmc 



till 



succession of flowers 
fall." 

The whole valley of the upper Mis- 
sissippi was almost wholly unknown to 
American geographers twenty years at^o, 
though the French Jesuits and " cou- 
reurs des bois" were acquainted with it 
for a century and a half before. Brad- 
ford remarks that the whole region be- 
tween the mouths of the Illinois and 
Missouri, and Lake Michigan and Coun- 
cil Bluffs, and further west, is one vast 
plain, slightly sloping to the south and 
east. The land between the Mississippi 
and the lake is only five hundred feet 
above the level of the Atlantic. Among 
the best portions of the upper Mississip- 
pi, is reckoned the whole of Iowa, the 
northern part of which, by reason of an 
admixture of sand, is rendered more 
moist and later in forwarding crops than 
the climate would lead us to expect. 
Carbonate of lime exists in the prairie 
soils, from twenty to forty per cent., 
but in much smaller proportion in the 
timber lands. Forests grow up sponta- 
neously on the prairies, when fire is kept 
out. St. Louis county was changed from 
an open prairie to a thick forest in this 
way, in thirteen years. 

The following general geological stra- 
ta are fi)und in the whole of the eastern 
upper Mississippi country, as truly as in 
Iowa : 1st, vegetable mould, eight to 
thirty inches ; 2d, pure yellow clay, three 
to eight feet ; 3d, gravelly clay with peb- 
bles, four to ten feet ; 4th, limestone, two 
to twelve feet; 5th, shale; 6th, bitumi- 
nous coal ; 7th, soapstone ; 8th, sand- 
stone. The limestone exists every- 
where. Every well and other excava- 
tion, which penetrates deep enough, 
discloses it, and it is exposed by many 
streams. 

The western pait of Iowa is chiefly 
mountain limestone, with strata of fossil 
chalk formations, wholly or chiefly of 
shells. Such is the summit of the bluff 
at Burlington, and of this is formed the 
fine whitish marble of Iowa City. In 
the south, between the Des Moines and 
Iowa rivers, are several varieties of mar- 
ble, some of them black, variegated, &c. 
Agates and cornelians are washed out on 
the banks of the Mississippi in abundance. 




The state of Wisconsin is bound- 
ed north by Lake Superior and the 
northern peninsula of Michigan ; east 
by Lake Michigan ; soulli by Illinois ; 
and west by Iowa and the territory of 
Minnesota. It lies between 42° 30' 
and 47° north latitude, and 87° and 
92° 30' west longitude. The lenglh 
is about three hundred miles, and 
the bieadth two hundred, containing 
about fifty-four thousand square miles. 
The population in 1840, was 30,945, 
and in 1S50, 304,121. Those parts of 
the state that lie south of Green Bay, 
Fox river, and the Wisconsin, present a variety of prairie and timber land, with 
some swamps and wet prairies, and a rich soil, varying from one foot to ten feet in 
depth. The north part is mountainous, declining into hills and a swelling surface, 
which terminates at Wisconsin river. The streams in that part of the state are 
often wild, and much broken by falls and rapids. That part of the state in which 
some of the head streams of the Mississippi have their origin, is an elevated table- 
land, abounding in swamps, which produce wild rice, and ponds well stocked 
with fish. The forests are extensive and thick along the banks of the Mississippi 
and Wisconsin river's, the land being rich. 

The rivers are large. The Mississippi lines the west border. The Wisconsin is 
five hundred miles long, and the Chippeway is further north. Rock river is also 
a large stream. The Neenah, or Fox river, flows near the Wisconsin, through land 
in some places so low, that boats may pass between them in times of light floods. 
The former is navigable one hundred and eighty miles in boats. 

Black river rises in the interior of Wisconsin, and after running a southwesterly 



588 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



course about two hundred and fifty 
miles, flows into the Mississippi about 
eighty-five miles above Prairie du Chien. 
Below the falls, which are about ninety 
miles from the mouth of the river, the 
country is mostly a hilly prairie. The 
predominating rock, which is the hase 
of hills at Prairie du Chien, rises in ran- 
ges of hills, or single bluffs, of all shapes, 
and running in every direction ; varying 
in height from one hundred to five hun- 
dred feet above the plain. The soil, 
which appears to be formed by the 
gradual denudation of these hills is light 
and sandy, and, for the most part, pos- 
sesses but little fertility. The alluvial 
deposites on the bank of the river, how- 
ever, are rich natural meadows, covered 
with a most luxuriant growth of grass. 
These meadows appear to be entirely 
undisturbed by the foot of man or beast, 
and the traveller is almost led to ima- 
gine that they must be under the pro- 
lection of an owner, who is cultivating 
hay on a large scale, and the appear- 
ance of an extensive hay-pressing es- 
tablishment would appear almost as a 
thing of course. 

On the prairie berries and a variety 
of flowers grow in profusion. The 
strawberries are small. Among the 
flowers is a species oi phlox, exceeding 
in splendor any of the family in an 
uncultivatsd state. The large yellow 
moccasin-flower, or ladies' slipper, is 
very common, and gives quite a variety 
of color to the prairies. In addition to 
their rich and varied coloring, most of 
these possess fragrance. There is an 
occasional grove to be seen, and the 
streams are generally skirted with tim- 
ber, among which are several species of 
oak, white and black birch, maple, pop- 
lar, &c., but a.s a whole, this part of the 
country is deficient in fencing material, 
and, with the exception of the choice 
situations, must, for farming purposes, 
remain unoccupied for many years. For 
a distance of ninety miles there is but 
one house near the river, and this is at 
a mill-site at the mouth of one of the 
numerous streams which flow into it. 
This being about forty-five miles from 
the mouth of the river, and an equal 
distance below the falls is a stopping- 



place for raftsmen, and those persons 
visiting the upper country in search of 
employment or to make claims. About 
five miles distant from this house, and 
settled by the same family (Douglass 
and sons), is a farm of fertile land under 
a good state of cultivation, though it is 
but two or three years since the settle- 
ment was made. The road through this 
part of the country is still a very primi- 
tive one, and is travelled only by foot- 
men and horses ; no vehicle of any 
description except such as were merely 
for transportation to the upper country, 
having as yet found their way along it. 
The mode of ferrying is equally primi- 
tive ; passengers and their baggage be- 
ing taken across in a canoe at a dime a 
head, while the horses are allowed to 
swim beside it. From the mouth to the 
falls, small flat-bottomed boats are used 
to transport provisions, but even this 
sort of navigation is frequently suspend- 
ed during the low water in summer, on 
account of the numerous sand-bars with 
which the river abounds. 

From latitude forty-five degrees north 
to near Lake Superior, and from the head 
waters of the St. Croix to those of the 
streams flowing into Green bay, about 
one hundred miles in length and breadth, 
the whole country may be regarded as 
a series of swamps, lakes, and rivers, 
with just sufficient dry land interspersed 
to serve for the summer residence of a 
few hundred Indians, who still hold it 
as their hunting-ground. Seven eighths 
of the entire country north of forty-five 
degrees is one immense swamp, inter- 
spersed with narrow sandy ridges ; and 
not over one tenth of it suitable for 
cultivation. Some of this swampy land 
may ultimately become valuable for the 
timber it affords, being covered with a 
beautiful growth of cedar, very straight 
and tall, and from one to two feet in di- 
ameter. The tamcraclx, if it were near 
the coast, might be in demand for masts 
and spars, being superior to any other 
species of pine in height as compared 
with size, and in the firmness, elasticity 
and durability of its timber ; but this 
central region of eternal swamp has no 
navigable rivers to float it out. Hera- 
lock, fir, and spruce, are the growth of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF Wlt^CONSIN. 



589 



from half a mile to several miles in ex 
tent : some of these are connected with 



perhaps the greater part of this low, I which are sometimes so disposed across 
wet tract of country. Many of these | the worst places as to form some suj)port 
swamps have in their middle lakes of for the foot. The Indian ponies used for 

packing soon get accustomed to these 
matters, and it is interesting to observe 
streams of water, forming chains for the caution and willingness with which 
many miles in length. Comparatively ; they encounter difliculties of this kind, 
few among the Indians, and scarcely • When the path is prepared, one of the 
any of the whites, have ever penetrated horses is led over. On eMering the 
these gloomy water-courses so as to swamp, he places his foo* with great 
have become at all famihar with their care, moving it a few incnes at a time, 
outlets. ! until he feels that his footing is sufficient- 

For many years pas a portion of the ; ly firm to bear him up, when another foot 
Chippewa or Ojibwa ibe of Indians is advanced in a similar manner. If, 
have had their summe esidence around however, despite his care, he sinks into 
a chain of lakes, the 1 gest of which is tlie mire beyond the power of extrica- 
known as " Lake de t- Jambeau," situa- j ting himself, he takes it as coolly as can 
ted about the middle of this low flat i be imagined, remaining perfectly quiet 
country; they have drawn their sum- j until all arrangements aie made for his 
mer subsistence from the waters, and in j assistance, and then, at a word, using the 
winter have spread over the frozen sur- | greatest possible exertions to second the 



face of the forest and marsh, in search of 
bear, deer, fox, beaver, otter, marten, 
and other valuable peltries and furs, 
which find a ready market at the vari- 
ous trading posts on the Mississippi and 
Its lakes. 

Swamps form a very considerable por- 
ti(m of the territory of northern Wiscon- 
sin. From these sources flow the head- 
waters of the numerous streams with 
which the whole country is abundantly 
supplied, and which, uniting, form the 
tributaries of the rivers which flow into 
til 8 Mississippi on the west, and the great 
lakes on the northeast. 

Of those most difficult to pass, the al- 
der-swamps are perhaps the most com- 
mon, such having nothing larger than 
the alder growing in them. Most of 
these are exceedingly miry, and many 
of them for horses quite impassable. On 
foot and without a load, a man may ea- 
sily step from clump to clump of the al- 
ders, and thus get safely across ; but a 
misstep may let him into the mud to the 
depth of several feet. It is fortunate for 
the traveller that these are the smallest 
in size of any, for though frequently ma- 
ny miles in length, they are seldom over 
half a mile wide. 

When absolutely necessary to get pack- 
horses across these morasses, the most 
favorable crossing-place is selected, and 
a road made by cutting away the alders. 



efforts of those endeavoring to extricate 
him. When the horses are all over, their 
packs are carried across, and they are re- 
loaded as before. 

The black-ash swamps are also very 
miry, and differ from those already de- 
scribed, in having that species of tree 
thinly scattered through them, while the 
alder is merely an undergrowth. 

Those swamps in which the cedar pre- 
dominates, however, are the most formi- 
dable, and are quite impassable for a 
horse, which must either meander, or 
turn back. The fallen but undecayed 
trunks of the trees, some of them per- 
haps the growth of four ages, lie across 
each other in every direction. As these 
become covered wi.«h moss, young trees 
commence growing on the tops of the 
trunks, sending their roots down the sides 
and into the ground, thus sometimes form- 
ing the novel sight of a large tree stand- 
ing erect over the trunk of perhaps its 
fallen ancestor. The undergrowth is en- 
tirely oii cedar, and is so dense, that an 
unencumbered man would be obliged, in 
addition to climbing the logs, to cut near- 
ly his whole way through this bristling 
underbrush, in order to cross it. They 
are not miry, but are often miles in width, 
with water under the roots of the trees 
as clear as crystal and very cold. 

The tamarack, a species of pine, is a 
very common production. The swamps 



590 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



producing this are sometimes miry, in 
which case they have an undergrowth of 
alder. In other instances the whole sur- 
face of the ground is covered with an 
aquatic plant resembling moss, which 
grows to the height of from eight to 
twelve inches, holds water equal to a 
sponge, and though no water appears 
upon the surface, the foot of the travel- 
ler sinks into the soft, yielding, sponge- 
like moss so as to bring it around his an- 
kles and frequently higher. 

The hemlock, fir, larch, and spruce 
swamps have little to distinguish them, 
other than the species of tree which they 
produce. Many of them have lakes in 
the middle, the water being of a reddish- 
brown color, and not the most palatable. 
They may all be penetrated during the 
dry summer-months ; all are mud during 
wet weather, and all abound in musqui- 
toes and other pestiferous insects. 

Racine, the capital of Racine county, 
is a thriving town, situated on Lake 
Michigan, at the mouth of Root river. 
It is one hundred and twelve miles from 
Madison, and seven hundred and eighty 
from Washington. It contains a court- 
house and jail. There are here two 
academies, with about one hundred stu- 
dents. The population is increasing 
very rapidly, at present numbering nearly 
6,000. There are about $200,000 in- 
vested in trade and manufactures. 

Madison, one hundred and fifty-nine 
miles from Chicago, is the capital of 
Wisconsin. It stands on a peninsula 
between two lakes. The situation is 
very favorable, the ground rising gradu- 
ally from the water on both sides to a 
moderate elevation in the middle, where 
a spacious square is laid out, the site of 
the statehouse. This is a large building 
of stone, with a fine dome rising from the 
centre. The population is over 1,200; 
and thei"e are several churches of differ- 
ent denominations. Stage-coaches run 
to Milwaukie, Rockfort (Illinois), Gale- 
na, and Fort Winnebago, three times a 
week. 

The city of Milwaukie commences 
about a mile above the mouth of the riv- 
er of that name, at a place called Walk- 
er's Point, and extends about a mile and 
a half along the river. Below Walker's 



Point the river is boi'dered by impassa- 
ble marshes. The ground occupied by 
the town is uneven, rising from the riv- 
er to the height of from fifty to one hun- 
dred feet, thus affcn-ding very beautiful 
situations for residences, commanding a 
full view of the town and bay, with its 
shipping. But few of these sites have 
yet been occupied and improved as their 
great importance and interesting views 
would lead us to expect. Along the base 
and front of these hills are a great num- 
ber of springs of pure watei', sufficient, 
if collected into a reservoir, to supply 
the wants of a considerable population. 
The river is sufficiently wide and deep 
to accommodate a large amount of ship- 
ping, and continues so for some distance 
above the city. At the head of this navi- 
gable portion of the river, a dam has 
been built by the " Milwaukie and Rock 
River Canal-Company," which raises the 
water twelve feet above high water, and 
causes a slack-water navigation extend- 
ing two miles further up the stream. A 
canal of one mile and a quarter brings 
this water into the town on the west side 
of the river, and creates there a water- 
power which is estimated to be equal to 
about one hundred runs of millstones ; 
and the canal has a width and depth suf- 
ficient to pass almost the whole body of 
water into the river. The manufactories 
erected on this canal have the advantage 
of being located on the immediate bank 
of the river, and may be approached by 
the largest steamboats navigating the 
great lakes : thus aff"ording advantages 
not usually found associated in the west- 
ern country. The city is ninety-seven 
miles from Chicago. 

The settlemenlof Milwaukie was com- 
meTJced in 1835. The village was laid 
out the same year. In less than fifteen 
i months its population amounted to 1200. 
A land-office was opened there in 183C, 
at which the amount of money received 
in ten years was $2,221,359 73. This, 
it is stated in " Lapham's Wisconsin," 
was about two thirds of the whole pro- 
ceeds of sales of public lands during thai 
time in the territory. Till the season of 
1835 the waters of Milwaukie bay were 
undisturbed by any craft save the In- 
dian's canoe, or perhaps the rudely-con- 



592 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



structed boat of a fur-trader or fisher- 
man. Now more than a thousand en- 
trances are made there annually by ves- 
sels and steamboats. The amount of 
merchandise, flour, pork, wheat, lard, 
furs, lead, copper, &c., shipped from 
year to year, is immense, and is rapidly 
increasing. 

The present population of Milwaukie 
is supposed to be between twenty and 
thirty thousand, and was never multi- 
plying faster. Almost every water-craft 
from the east that enters that port, has 
one or more new settlers on board. The 
number of buildings now going up would 
indicate thrift and prosperity. And here 
we might mention that a large part of 
the houses and blocks are built of brick, 
which, in this place, is of a light cream 
color (owing, it is said, to the absence 
of iron), and presents a strikingly-beau- 
tiful appearance. It draws the attention 
and excites the admiration of all stran- 
gers. 

Prairie DU Chien, on the Mississippi, 
is the most prominent point on that river. 
It is situated a few miles north of the 
Wisconsin river, and has its name from 
the beautiful prairie on which it is loca- 
ted. It is one of the oldest settlements 
in the west, and has been the scene of 
many battles. Population about 3,000. 

Sheboygan is well situated, on the 
Wisconsin side of the lake, and exhibits 
a vigorous, and, to all appearance, a per- 
manent growth. Everything is new; the 
site is elevated and pleasant. The coun- 
try back of it is well adapted to produce 
wheat, and the rapids in the river, a few 
miles out, afford a cheap power to con- 
vert it into flour. 

The harbors of both these cities (Mil- 
waukie and Sheboygan) require appro- 
priations, to remove obstructions, and to 
render access to them easy. A few thou- 
sand dollars applied to the construction 
of piers will effect the object. 

SouTHPORT. — This is a town of so ', 
recent a date, that, as in the case of 
some others, it is impossible to find a 
description of it even in the latest publi- 
cations, geographical or topogi'aphical. 
It stands on the border of a prairie of 
great extent, and its position gives it 
important commercial advantages, al- ; 



though the harbor is too shallow near 
the shore for the access of vessels. Two 
long piers of timber have therefore been 
constructed, extending far into the wa- 
ter, where vessels must load and dis- 
charge. The town is already large, 
busy, and prosperous, considering its 
recent date, and has every prospect of a 
rapid and continued increase. P. 3000. 

Fond du Lac. — In 1844 there were 
but two houses on this spot ; but so rap- 
id has been its growth, that it now looks 
much like a New-England village. The 
scenery about Fond du Lac is very fine, 
and the site of the village is beautiful : it 
is on the western edge of a prairie, in the 
sunset shade of a narrow strip of timber- 
land which separates it from another 
prairie. 

The prairie on which the village is 
situated extends eastward four and a half 
or five miles, and is nearly the same dis- 
tance in width. On the east and south 
it is hemmed with timber-lands and oak 
openings, on the west by the strip of 
timber-land above mentioned, and on the 
north lie the clear blue waters of the 
Winnebago lake. The people are gen- 
erally the enterprising, intelligent de- 
scendants of the eastern states. 

Aztalan is a small town, of about 
two hundred inhabitants, situated upon 
the east bank of the Crawfish, and about 
twelve miles southwest from Water- 
town. It has acquired some notoriety 
from being on the site of the " ancient 
city," as it is called throughout the state. 

It is true, that there is enough to be 
seen here to satisfy any one that the 
country has once been inhabited, and 
that, too, anterior to the present race of 
Indians, by a race that had made some 
progress in the arts ; but there is noth- 
ing to show any considerable civiliza- 
tion or knowledge of science. The re- 
mains of a brick wall, enclosing about 
twenty-five acres, are distinctly visible. 
The enclosui'e is upon the west bank of 
the river, and the west wall is seventy 
or eighty rods long. At the north end 
it foi'ms a right angle, and runs perhaps 
twenty or twenty-five rods to the river ; 
it then follows down the river immedi- 
ately upon the bank, for about forty 
rods, and there disappears. Near the 



594 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OP WISCONSIN. 



south end of the west wall, it makes an 
angle to the west of ten oi- fifteen de- 
grees, and pursues this course a few 
rods, and then makes an obtuse angle 
toward the river, and, before it reaches 
it, makes another angle, so that the 
south wall appi'oaches the river nearly 
parallel with the north. The remains 
of the wall are about four, and in some 
places six feet high. The bricks are of 
red clay, and burnt, and in some places 
the clay of which they are composed is 
mixed with sti'aw, only fragments of 
bricks having been found. Without as 
well as within the wall, may be seen 
regular and irregular formations on the 
surface of the ground — some appearing 
like cellars, and some ai'e elevations. 
These appearances are visible nearly 
the whole length of the wall. There 
are only three or four elevations that 
may be called mounds, within the enclo- 
sure, and the most pi'ominent of these 
is in the northwest corner, and is about 
ten or twelve feet high. On the bank 
of the river, without the wall, and nearly 
at the water's edge, are the remains of 
what appears to have been the end of a 
sewer, or an under-ground drain, to the 
enclosure. It is of limestone, and regu- 
larly arched. 

In the vicinity of the enclosure are 
about one hundred and thirty mounds, 
varying in height from six to forty feet. 
The greater portion of the mounds are 
arranged in a line, nearly parallel with 
the west wall of the enclosure, and 
about thirty rods west of it, and ex- 
tend at least fifty rods further north than 
the wall does. The mounds that are 
thus arranged touch at their bases, and 
are conical — some having a base two 
hundred and fifty feet in circumference, 
and some not more than one hundred 
feet. Around the northwest angle of 
the enclosure, and at a distance from it, 
is a curved line of mounds, and so at 
the southwest corner of the enclosure. 
Besides these, are other mounds, irregu- 
larly located on different eminences, at 
a great distance from the wall. One, in 
particular, is very prominent, about two 
hundred and fifty rods southwest from 
the wall, and it is different in formation 
from the others, having a crater foi'med 



in the top. Many of these mounds have 
been opened, and in some a regular 
stone structure has been found, in form 
like an oven — the stone cemented sol- 
idly together, having a perfectly smooth 
surface within and without. In one of 
these vaults was found a copper coin, 
with an impression upon one side, of two 
birds, and upon the other were unin- 
telligible hieroglyphics. Metallic hatch- 
ets, axes, and knives, have been found, 
and pieces of cord and coarse cloth, and 
fragments of pottery. 

Upon some of these mounds ai'e trees 
a hundred years old. The present race 
of Indians have been using the enclo- 
sure for a planting ground, as the corn 
hills are very plain to be seen. The en- 
closure is upon a level piece of ground 
elevated about eighteen feet above the 
river, and the mounds are upon ground 
fifty feet higher than the enclosure. The 
mounds and enclosure were most un- 
doubtedly the work of the same people. 
Here is to be found evidence of a prog- 
ress in the arts, that no American Indian, 
of which we have any account, ever 
made. Mounds north of Fox lake, also 
upon the borders of Highland prairie, in 
Dodge county, are very similar in their 
formation and appearance to these. 

At Summit, in Waukesha county, are 
a different class of mounds. They are 
formed like a house-roof, ai-e about two 
rods long, and five or six feet high, and 
ai'e scattered about over the plains in 
groups, resembling military companies 
in the different movements of marching 
by platoon, echelon, and in file. 

Other antiquities of interest have been 
recently discovered in Fond du Lac, 
that are represented as being nearly as 
extensive as these of Aztalan. 

A Clearing and Log Cabin. — This is 
a faithful repi'esentation of the dwelling 
of every settler in our western regions ; 
and humble dwellings of this form and 
size now shelter the heads of thousands, 
whose families will be among the most 
wealthy of our citizens in a single gene- 
ration. A log-cabin, in a new territory, 
may be regarded as a most striking em- 
blem of enterprise well directed. Econ- 
omy and industry, sound calculation and 
manly resolution, are expressed by its 



small size and rude aspect ; for it is the 
cheapest dwelling-place which ingenu- 
ity can invent, in a country where wood 
abounds ; and, when constructed with 
sufficient pains, is warm in winter and 
cool in summer. 

The custom generally prevails among 
settlers to aid each new-comer in the 
erection of a house ; and the simple plan 
of a log-cabin enables every one to be- 
come a competent builder, after a little 
practice. Where logs are not to be 
had, poles are sometimes used ; and 
then the fabric is frail and loose, so that 
it is difficult to make the walls tight, 
even with all the clay, moss, &c., with 
which the interstices can be stuffed. 
When round logs are used, such means 
are generally effectual, if carefully ap- 
plied and often renewed. 

The first furniture usually introduced 
into a dwelling of this kind, is a table, 
made of four stakes driven into the 
ground, a bedstead of the rudest kind, 
and a few blocks cut from the ends of 
logs for seats ; while the utensils are 
such as the family have brought in their 
wagon. 

With such a roof over him as the en- 
graving represents, and such food as he 
can procure in the forest, the settler 
proceeds with cheerfulness to the cleai'- 
ing of a little land, and the planting of 
his first crop, which is usually the har- 
binger of a series of fruitful seasons, and 
a coui'se of continued and increasing 
prosperity. 

A Prairie on fire is a scene of an 
impressive character, and sometimes ter- 
rific, dangerous, and destructive. It has 
been the practice of the Indians, in dif- 
ferent parts of North America, from 
time immemorial, to set fire to the dry 
grass on the prairies, meadows, and 
other fertile grounds fitted for pasture ; 
and the same custom has prevailed in 
some other parts of the world. Accord- 
ing to Leichhart, the first explorer of 
Australia, it is common in the interior 
of that vast island, or continent. The 
object is usually twofold, so far as the 
motives of the American Indians can be 
ascertained, viz., to prevent the growth 
of young trees, and to enrich the pas- 
tures with the ashes of the burnt crop, 



that it may prove most attractive to the 
deer or other game in the succeeding 
warm season. * 

The fire, however, sometimes spreads 
much further than is desired, and for- 
ests of great extent, with houses, and 
even cattle and men, are sometimes de- 
stroyed. A strong wind, aided by a 
dry season, or accident in firing a field 
at a wrong time, thus occasionally 
proves disastrous. Wild animals, which 
have been sheltered by the high grass, 
are often driven precipitately from their 
lair, and Indians or travellers have some- 
times been surprised by a conflagration, 
fi'om which they have not escaped with- 
out the greatest difficulty. The wind 
not unfrequently spreads the flames fast- 
er than a man or even a horse can run, 
and then the safest way is, when possi- 
ble, to plunge through the burning mass, 
and get to windward. 

The Maiden's i^ocZ;.— This bold bluff 
rises from the banks of the Mississippi, 
at a point near the middle of the west- 
ern boundary of Wisconsin, where it 
extends its breadth to two and a half 
miles, and bears the name of Lake Pe- 
pin. This rock is about four hundred 
and fifty feet in height, and the upper 
part forms a piecipice of one hundred 
and fifty. A tragical tale is connected 
with it in an Indian tradition, from 
which it has received its name. The 
following is an abridgment of the story, 
as related to Major Long : — 

In the village of Keoxa, in the tribe 
of Wapasha, once lived a young Indian 
woman named Winona, between whom 
and a young hunter existed an ardent 
attachment. Her parents opposed hei 
wishes, having fixed their choice upon 
a waiTior, whom they urged her to 
marry. Her brothers, however, resolved 
that she should not be treated with 
harshness, and endeavored to remove 
her objections to the warrior, by giving 
him valuable presents, which would en- 
able him to make provision for his wife, 
if he should be absent on an excursion 
against his enemies. This encourage- 
ment from the family of Winona induced 
him to renew his suit : but she was as 
resolute as before, which provoked her 
parents to threaten her. 



598 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



The hunter had already been driven 
into the forest, and she despaired of be- 
ing allowed to lead a single life, and 
climbing to the summit of the bluff, 
seated herself upon the awful brink, 
and began to sing her death-song. Ter- 
rified at the prospect of her suicide, and 
repenting of their cruelty, the parents 
now sti'ove to prevent her from perform- 
ing her intention, and were seconded 
by their friends. Some climbed the 
rock to seize the desperate maiden, and 
the others took their stations at the 
foot of the precipice ; but no exertions, 
protestations, or promises, would avail ; 
and, throwing herself from the summit, 
she was killed by the fall. 

The scenery between Lake Pepin 
and the St. Oioix is not as lofty nor as 
picturesque as that below ; but its in- 
terest is greatly enhanced by the greater 
number of Indians. The Red wing vil- 
lage is nearly midway between the two 
lakes mentioned, and contains about six 
hundred souls. A short distance from 
this village are two isolated mountains, 
where may be seen a most magnificent 
panorama of the walderness. These 
mountains, from time immemorial, have 
been used as altars where Indian war 
parties have offered up their sacrifices, 
previous to going to battle. At the 
present time, however, their only inhabi- 
tants are rattlesnakes. 

Lake St. Croix empties into the Mis- 
sissippi, and its principal inlet is a river 
of the same name, which rises in the 
vicinity of Lake Superior. This is the 
valley through which the traders and 
Indians have been in the habit of pass- 
ing, for a century past, on their way 
from the western prairies to Lake Su- 
perior, and from the lake back again to 
the prairies. The river is only distin- 
guished for one waterfall of uncommon 
beauty. The lake is about twenty-five 
miles long, from two to five wide, and 
surrounded with charming scenery. The 
water is clear, but of a rich bi'own color, 
and well supplied with . fish, of which 
the trout is the most abundant. 

From St. Croix to St. Peter's, the 
banks of the Mississippi are steep but 
only about one hundi'ed and fifty feet in 
heitjht. The river is here studded with 



islands, whose shadowy recesses are 
cool during the hottest weather — and a 
more delightful region for the botanist 
to ramble can not be found elsewhere 
on the face of the earth. The water is 
clear as crystal, and its bosom is gener- 
ally covered with waterfowl, from the 
graceful snow-white swan to the mallard 
and wood-duck. Isolated Indian wig- 
wams are frequently seen here, pitched 
on the margin of the stream and at the 
foot of vine-covered precipices. 

The Mines of Lioke Superior. — Isle 
Royale is a portion of the territory ce- 
ded by the Chippewa Indians to the 
United States, by the treaty of October, 
1842. So imperfectly known was the 
region thus acquired, that it was repre- 
sented, in the instructions of the govern- 
ment to the first mineral agent, in the 
spring of 1843, as an " unexplored re- 
gion — a newly-acquii'ed country." This 
island had long been known to the In- 
dians and fur-traders, as being rich in 
minerals, yet it was ceded by name, al- 
though clearly included in the general 
description. The consequence was, that 
after mineral locations had been made 
upon the island, in 1843, by Professor 
Locke, of Cincinnati, a portion of the 
Chippewas insisted that Isle Royale was 
not ceded by the treaty of 1842. The 
Indians were instigated to assert this 
pretended claim, by the "traders and 
designing men" who had obtained some 
knowledge of its great mineral riches. 
This pretended claim caused the sus- 
pension of mining operations oij the 
island, and anether treaty was made in 
1844, whereby the Indians solen^nly ac- 
knowledge the cession of the island by 
the treaty of 1842. 

The owners of the locations on the 
island, after various delays, obtained the 
recognition of their rights, fi'om the gov- 
ernment, and in the spring of 1846, as- 
sociated themselves together under the 
name of the Isle Royale and Ohio mi- 
ning company, and proceeded at once to 
the island with an efficient force for mi- 
ning operations. 

Isle Royale is in the northwest part 
of Lake Superior, in forty-eight degrees 
north latitude, and eighty-nine degrees 
west longitude, extending northeast and 



DKSCaiPTION OP THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



599 



southwest forty-five miles, and varies 
from three to five and eight miles in 
width. It is about one hundred and 
twenty-five miles in circumference, and 
has a greater number of harbors — lar- 
ger, safer, of much easier access, and far 
more beautiful — than is within all the 
remaining territorial limits of the United 
States upon the lake. Rock harbor, 
upon the southeast coast of the island, is 
fifteen miles long, and from half a mile 
to a mile wide. Between the main land 
and the lake is a chain of islands for 
ten miles, between which are channels 
of deep water from the harbor to the 
lake. These islands are irregular ele- 
vations of rock covered with evergreens. 
Resting upon the transparent waters of 
the harbor, they present the most at- 
tractive feature in one of Nature's most 
enchanting pictures. 

The next hai"bor of importance is at 
" Siskowit bay," eighteen miles south- 
west from Rock harbor. This harbor 
would afford safe anchorage for all the 
vessels of the upper lakes, and is at all 
times accessible through " Medary's en- 
trance." Washington harbor comes 
next, at the west end of the island, ex- 
tending inland about three miles. Then 
comes Todd's harboi", and M'Cargo's 
cove, on the north and northeast coast — 
both safe and beautiful harbors for ves- 
sels of any burden. Besides these, there 
are numerous inlets and indentations 
along the coast, except on the northwest 
shore, where perpendicular cliffs extend 
for fifteen miles. The northeast end of 
the island resembles a man's hand — the 
thumb being the point at the entrance 
into Rock harbor, and the fingers the 
four elevated ridges extending into the 
lake, with deep bays or inlets inter- 
vening, two, four, and six miles in 
length. 

The lake around the northeast end of 
the island is thickly dotted with small 
islands of rock, from forty to two hun- 
dred and fifty feet high, covered with 
evergreens and white birch. 

There are numerous beautiful lakes 
of pure water upon the island, from one 
to three miles in length, abounding in 
fish, furnishing streams of sufficient vol- 
ume for saw-mills and all mining pur- 



poses. There are also many small prai- 
ries producing wild grass. 

Isle Royale may be described as a 
mighty " up-heave" of irregular cliffs, 
bluffs, and mountains of rock — the ele- 
vation in many places being five hun- 
dred feet above the lake. The mount- 
ain ranges run nearly parallel with the 
island. There are also innumerable 
deep ravines or gutters, which are here 
called dikes, running parallel through the 
island, at the bottom of which metallife- 
rous veins are invariably found, and to 
which the intervening veins or feeders 
usually lead. 

The prevailing character of the rock 
on the diffex'ent portions of the island is 
altered sand rock, underlaid with the 
true red sand-stone and conglomerate, 
which makes its appearance near Rock 
harbor, and continues along the southern 
coast. Green stone also shows itself 
frequently. On the noithern coast, green 
stone, amygdaloid, sienite, and sienitic 
porphyry prevail ; the mountain ranges 
are generally green stone also. 

The island is thickly wooded, ever- 
greens of small growth prevailing. The 
varieties are balsam, spruce, yellow and 
white cedar, white pine, tamerack, white 
birch, several kinds of poplar, black al- 
der, mountain oak, a few black ash and 
maples, juniper bushes, and dwarf chei'- 
ries. The pine and spruce are sufficient 
in number and size for boards and tim- 
ber for the use of the island. The fruit 
consists of blue-berries, raspberries, wild 
strawberries, thimble-berries, and cran- 
berries. 

The animals are rabbits, red and gray 
squirrels, lynx, and carriboos (a species 
of deer). The fowls are ducks, loons, 
gulls, partridges, pigeons, night-hawks, 
jay-birds, owls, bats, &;c. The fish are 
speckled trout, Mackinac trout, Siskowit 
trout, white-fish, mullet, pickerel, and 
herring. 

During the summer months the cli- 
mate is mild, healthful, and rejuvena- 
ting ; the days not too hot for comforta- 
ble labor, and the nights just cool enough 
for I'efreshing sleep. In the winter the 
snow falls from two to four feet deep, 
and the weather is cold, without sudden 
changes. 



600 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF WISCONSIN. 



The Great American Lakes. — "We 
can n , perhaps, close the description 
of the latest cismontain state added to 
the confederation, more appropriately 
than by the following biief record of the 
depth, and width, and average extent of 
the great American lakes, two of which 
lave its borders. It is from the recent 
official report of the chief of the topo- 
graphical bureau, and therefore may be 
relied upon. 

" The great lakes of our country, 
which may justly be considered inland 
seas, are the follow^ing : Champlain, On- 
tario, Erie, St. Clair, Huron, Michigan, 
and Superior. These lakes are of great 
depth, as well as of great extent. The 
entire line of lake coast embraces about 
5,000 miles, 2,000 miles of which con- 
stitute the coast of a foreign power. 



Lake Champlain is 
Its greatest width 
Its average width 

Laks Ontario is 
Its greatest width 
Its average width 

Lake Erie is 

Its greatest width 
Its average width 



Lake 
Its 
Its 

Lake 
Its 
Its 

Lake 
Its 
Its 

Lake 
Its 
Its 



St. Clair is 
greatest width 
average width 

Huron is 
greatest width 
average width 

Michigan is 
greatest width 
average width 

Superior is 
greatest width 
average width 



105 miles long. 
12 miles. 
8 miles. 

108 miles long. 
52 miles. 
40 miles. 

240 miles long. 

57 miles. 
38 miles. 

IS miles long. 
25 miles. 
12 miles. 

270 miles long. 
104 miles.* 
70 miles. 

340 miles long. 
83 miles. 

58 miles. 

420 miles long. 
135 miles. 
100 miles. 



" These lakes may be considered as 
connected throughout their whole ex- 
tent. Lake Champlain connects with 
Lake Ontario by means of the river 
Richelieu ; the lock and dam navigation 
of St. Lawrence river; the Ottawa riv- 
er and Rideau canal through Canada; 
and the Champlain and Erie canals of 

* This does not include the extensive bay of 
Georgian, itself 120 miles long, and average 45 wide. 



New York. Lake Ontario is connected 
with Lake Erie by means of the Wel- 
land canal through Canada, and by 
means of Oswego and Erie canals 
through the state of New York. Lake 
Erie is connected with Lake St. Clair by 
the deep and navigable strait of Detroit, 
twenty-five miles long. Lake St. Clair is 
connected with Lake Huron by the deep 
and navigable strait of St. Clair, thirty- 
two miles long. Lake Huron is connect- 
ed with Lake Michigan by the deep and 
wide strait of Mackinaw, and with Lake 
Superior by strait of St. Mary's, forty- 
six miles long. This strait is navigable 
throughout except for about one mile of 
its length, immediately adjacent to Lake 
Superior, where from rocks and the ex- 
treme rapidity of the current, naviga- 
tion ceases. These difficulties can, how- 
ever, be easily surmounted by a canal 
of not more than a mile long, with locks 
to overcome a fall of about twenty-one 
feet. The only additional obstruction to 
this immense extent of inland navigation 
is in St. Clair lake, on approaching the St. 
Clair strait. This obstruction consists 
of an extensive bar, but not of great 
width, over which not more than seven 
feet of water, in depressed conditions of 
the lakes, can be counted upon. From 
an examination of this shoal, it has been 
found to consist of an indurated marl, 
leaving but little cause of doubt that if 
a channel were once dredged through, 
it would remain a durable improvement. 

" Lake Champlain lies exclusively (ex- 
cept the strait near Rouse's point) within 
the states of Vermont and New York ; 
the former occupying its eastern, the 
latter its western margin. It is not 
considered a dangerous lake to navi- 
gate ; and the principal protection 
which its commerce requires, is in form 
of breakwaters, to shelter its open har- 
bors." 

The vast commerce of these lakes, and 
the great extent of coast, prove the ne- 
cessity of the surveys through which 
this information is obtained, in order 
that we may possess an accurate knowl- 
edge of the bars, rocks, and shoals, to 
which this active commerce on so ex- 
tensive a line of coast is imminently 
exposed. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



601 





New or Alta California was discov- 
ered about 1542, by Juan Rodriguez 
Cabrillo, who explored the coast as far 
north as the forty-third degree of north 
latitude. Portions of the coast were 
visited by Sir Francis Drake in 1578, 
by Francisco Galli in 1582, and by 
Sebastian Vescayna in 1603. Vescayna 
discovered the ports of San Diego and 
Monterey, and closed the career of north- 
ern exploration which had originated 
with Cortez. In 1767, the Jesuits, by 
whom the settlement of Lower Califor- 
nia had been accomplished, fell under 
the displeasure of the government of 
Spain, and were expelled from the pen- 
insula. The Marquis de Croix, who was at that time viceroy of New Spain, re- 
placed them by the rival (jrder of the Franciscans, upon whom he strongly urged 
the spiritual conquest of the upper province. This enterprise the government 
considered more important than the settlement of the peninsula. The accounts 
which were current of the wealth of the country were very flattering, and political 
reasons induced them to lend efiicient assistance to the adventure. Both France and 
England at that time evinced considerable interest in the islands of the Pacific, and 
the countries upon its coast ; and the explorations of Bourgainville and Cook had 
begun to excite alarm. Russia also, with noiseless, but certain advance, was 
stretching her gigantic empire alone the western coast, and Spain recognised the 
necessity of preventing these dangerous intruders from obtaining a foothold in 
her American possessions. 

Under these circumstances, the spiritual subjugation of Upper California was 
accomplished in a comparatively short time. The same career of privation and 
toil was run by the priestly pioneers as marked the settlement of the peninsula, 



602 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



but the missions grew up more rapidly, 
and the difficulties were, on the whole, 
fewer. The results were equally unim- 
portant. Neither Mexico nor the colo- 
ny was much benefited. The country 
offered great inducements to a profita- 
ble trade, and was believed' to possess 
large deposites of quicksilver and gold ; 
but the narrow and unwise policy of 
Mexico, both when an appendage of 
Spain, and an independent state, ren- 
dered the development of its resources 
impossible. The government fettered 
commerce. It imposed restrictions in- 
stead of granting facilities; levied oner- 
ous taxes, and stretched a barrier of 
customhouses across ports which a lib- 
eral policy would have crowded with 
profitable trade. The interests of the 
cf)untry were wholly disregarded ; and 
California became a refuge for invalid 
soldiers, indolent priests, and pampered 
officials. 

The missions, however, aided by large 
donations fiom the pious in Mexico, 
which were consolidated into what was 
styled "the California Pious Fund," 
rapidly grew in im.portance. They 
brought the mass of the native popula- 
tion into a condition of comparative 
vassalage, and gradually absorbed the 
valuable lands, almost to the exclusion 
of the white settlers. They existed in 
a state of almost total independence of 
Mexico ; and although ordinary govern- 
ment estabUshments were kept up, as in 
the other pi'ovinces of the vice-royalty, 
the priests were virtually the owners of 
the soil, and the masters of the country. 
Affairs remained in this position until 
the occurrence of the Mexican revolu- 
tion in 1824. This revolution, which 
separated Mexico from Spain, ainiexed 
California to that republic. The Cali- 
fornias were then erected into territories, 
not having sufficient population to en- 
title them to be federative states, and 
were each allowed to send one member 
to the general congress, who was priv- 
ileged to take part in the del)ates of that 
body, but had no voice in its decisions. 
As territories, they were under the gov- 
ernment of an agent styled the com- 
mandant-general, whose powers were 
very extensive. 



The country has several times, since 
the Spanish power was exterminated, 
suffered from revolution ; and for the 
last ten or twelve years of its connexion 
with Mexico, the authority of that nation 
over it was very loose. Its distance 
from the metropolis would indeed tend 
to such a result. The people more than 
once declared themselves independent, 
and as often rejoined the confederacy. 
In 1846, on the breaking out of the war 
between the United States and Mexico, 
California was occupied by the United 
States foj'ces; and, by the treaty of Guad- 
alupe Hidalgo, Feb. 2, 1848, the whole 
country was ceded to the United States. 

In the latter part of the above named 
month, a mechanic, named James W. 
Marshall, was employed in building a 
saw-mill for Captain Sutter on the south 
branch of a river known as the Ameri- 
can Fork. On Fremont's map, the riv- 
er is called " Rio de los Americanos." 
While cutting a race for this improve- 
ment, Mr. Marshall discovered the scales 
of gold as they glistened in the sunlight 
at the bottom of the sluice. He gather- 
ed a few, examined them, and became 
satisfied of their value. He informed 
Captain Sutter of his discovery, and 
they agreed to keep it secret until the 
mill of Captain Sutter was finished. It 
however got out and spread like magic. 
Remarkable success attended the labors 
of the first explorers, and in a few weeks 
hundreds of men were drawn thither. 
Examinations were prosecuted at other 
points along the stream and almost ev- 
erywhere with success. The result was 
extraordinary. Thousands flocked to 
California from all parts of the world, 
and a lively commerce was thus initiated 
which bids fair in a few years to become ' 
more extensive and valliable than all the 
present foreign trade of the United 
States together. 

Previous to the discovery of the pre- 
cious metals in California, the principal 
^•oute to the Pacific coast of North 
America had been around Cape Horn. 
This long, perilous, and fatiguing voy- 
age, consumed a period of from six to 
eight months, and sometimes longer for 
its accomplishment, and many of the 
earlier emicrrants to California, reached 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



603 



there by this tedious route. But, pre- 
vious to this period, however, arrange- 
ments had been entered into by govern- 
ment, under appropriations made by 
Congress for that purpose, for the estab- 
lishment of a line of semi-monthly mail- 
steamers lo California and Oregon by 
the way of the isthmus of Panama. 
This line was soon in operation ; but 
though it proved entirely successful as 
a medium of rapid transmission of the 
mail to and from that distant region, 
shortening the period of transit from 
New York to California to less than 
forty days, it was still inadequate to the 
demand for passages of the thousands 
and tens of thousands, who determined 
to emigrate to the new El Dorado of 
the Pacific. To meet this demand, 
vessels were chartered in all the Atlan- 
tic ports for the conveyances of passen- 
gers to Chagres, on the Atlantic side of 
the isthmus, this being a far quicker and 
safer route than a voyage round Cape 
Horn. The passage across the isthmus 
was made in canoes up the Chagres 
liver forty miles to Gorgona, and thence 
overland on mules, a distance of twenty 
miles to the city of Panama on the Pa- 
cific side of the isthmus. So immense 
was the number who chose this route, 
that the vessels on the Pacific side proved 
entirely inadequate to their transporta- 
tion up to California, and soon several 
thousands were collected on the isthmus, 
many of whom had to wait months, 
ere they obtained a passage up the Pa- 
cific, though every possible sort of craft 
that could be pressed into the service, 
was made available to supply the de- 
mand for passage. The view of Pana- 
ma, placed on the following page, shows 
a party of Americans converting canoes 
into vessels, in which to reach the gold- 
en land of their " hope deferred." The 
engraving is no fancy sketch, but was 
drawn by a gentleman residing at Pan- 
ama, who witnessed their labors from the 
window of his hotel. 

Additional steamers have, from time 
to time, been put upon the route, on both 
the Atlantic and Pacific sides, until this 
medium of travel can now accommodate 
all requiring a conveyance to or from 
the land of gold. A railroad across the 



isthmus is in rapid process of construc- 
tion, which, when finished, will greatly 
facilitate, as regards both time and com- 
foit, that most fatiguing portion of the 
journey. Another route, by the way of 
the river Sati Juan and across the lake 
Nicaragua, and about twenty miles by 
stage to the Pacific coast, has been es- 
tablished. This route is about a thou- 
sand miles shoiter than that by the way 
of Panama ; and the voyage, from San 
Francisco to New York, via Nicaragua, 
has been made in twenty-eight days. 
May we not hope that the day is not 
distant, when a railroad directly across 
the continent, shall shorten the passage 
between the Atlantic and Pacific metro- 
politan cities to one fifth of twenty-eight 
days ; when the triumphs of science and 
art shall render them comparatively 
near neighbors, contributing to each 
other's prosperity, greatness, and hap- 
piness ; and when, literally, from sea to 
sea, a continuous line of enlightened, 
civilized communities, shall greet the 
eye of the traveller, as he makes a rapid 
transit east or west across the American 
continent ! 

In September, 1849, in consequence of 
the disorganized condition of things, and 
the insecurity which generally prevailed, 
the people of California, by their dele- 
gates, met in convention , at Monterey, and 
formed a constitution, which was ratified 
by the people in November, 1849. The 
constitution being submitted to Con- 
gress, was I'atified by that body, and the 
state of California thus admitted into 
the Union, September 9, 1850. 

The intelligence of the reception of 
California into the Union was welcomed 
at San Francisco with expres3i;>ns of 
universal enthusiasm. The steamer 
which bore the tidings was decked with 
flags and streamers of all nations, with a 
piece of canvass extending from fore to 
mainmast inscribed with the words " Call 
fornia is admitted." The salvos of artil- 
lery and the waving of flags soon spread 
the joyful news to every part of the city. 
All classes of the inhabitants shared the 
general hilarity, and with exchanges of 
mutual congratulations exulted in the 
accession of California as the thirty-first 
state of the federal Union. A more 




um 



I ii J vi' 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFOENIA. 



605 



formal celebration of this event took 
place on the 29th of October, in which 
the citizens generally participated with 
patriotic joy, A procession was formed 
in honor of the occasion, salutes were 
fired, banners displayed, an oration pro- 
nounced, a national ode sung, and the 
fetstivities closed with a ball and supper. 

According to the terms of the consti- 
tution the legislative power is vested in 
a senate and assembly, called the legis- 
lature of California. Senators not less 
in number than one third, nor more than 
one half the number of members of as- 
sembly, are elected by the people in 
districts, for a term of two years, so 
classified that one half may be chosen 
annually. Members of the assembly are 
elected by the people annually, in dis- 
tricts. There shall not be less than 
twenty-four, nor more than thirty-six, 
until the population is one hundx-ed thou- 
sand ; and afterward, there shall never 
be more than eighty nor less than thirty. 
Senators and members of the assembly 
must be qualified electors in their dis- 
tricts, and be citizens and inhabitants of 
the state one year, and of their districts 
six months, before their election. 

The executive power is vested in a 
governor, elected by the people for a 
term of two years. He must be over 
twenty-five years of age, a citizen of the 
United States, and a resident of the state 
two years next before the election. He 
may veto a bill, but two thirds of the 
legislature may pass it afterwaid. A 
lieutenant-governor is elected by the 
people at the same time, and for the 
same term with the governor, and must 
have the same qualifications ; he is presi- 
dent of the senate, and in case the office 
of governor be vacant, he acts as gov- 
ernor. A secretary of state is appointed 
by the governor. A comjJtroller, treas- 
urer, attorney and surveyor genei'al, 
are to be elected by the people at the 
same time, and for the same term as the 
governor. 

The annual election is held on the 
Tuesday next after the first Monday of 
November, and the sessions of the legis- 
lature are to be held annually, and com- 
mence on the first Monday in January. 
The place for the seat of government 



has been fixed at Vallejo. Divorces by 
the legislature, lotteiies, banking char- 
ters, and paper-money, are prohibited. 

In elections by the legislature, the 
members vote viva voce — by the people 
by ballot. 

The judicial power is vested in a su- 
pi'eme court, district courts, and countv 
courts ; the judges of all which are 
elected by the people. The supreme 
court consists of a chief justice and two 
associates, elected for a term of six years. 
District judges are chosen for a term of 
six years. One county judge is elected 
in each county for four years. County 
officers are chosen by the people. A 
superintendent of public instruction is 
elected by the people of the state, for a 
term of three years. 

Every white male citizen of the Uni- 
ted States, and every citizen of Mexico 
under the treaty of Queretaro, twenty- 
one years of age, resident in the state 
six months, and of the district where he 
offers to vote thirty days preceding the 
election, is entitled to vote. Indians and 
their descendants may be permitted to 
vote in special cases, by a two thirds 
concurrent vote of the legislature. 

Slavery, or involuntary servitude, ex- 
cept for the punishment of crimes is for 
ever prohibited. 

A design for a state seal was adopted by 
the constitutional convention, an engra- 
ving of which, of the exact size of the 
seal, forms a part (jf the vignette at the 
commencement of this sketch, on page 
601. It was designed by Major R. S. 
Garnett, of the United States army. 
Each region wished to be represented 
in the seal. The Sacramento district 
wanted a gold mine, with a miner at 
work ; San Francisco, its harbor and 
shipping ; the Sonoma members thought 
no seal would be complete without some- 
thing from their ancient " bear-flag ;" 
while those from Los Angelos and San 
Diego wished their corn, vines, and 
olives, to be represented. These several 
requirements were met, as far as possi- 
ble, in the design. 

Around the bevel of the ring are rep- 
resented thirty-one stars, being the num- 
ber of states of which the Union would 
consist, upon the admission of California. 



606 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



The foreground figure represents the 
goddess Minerva, having sprung full- 
grown from the brain of Jupiter. She 
is introduced as a type of the political 
birth of California, without having gone 
through the probation of a territory. 
At her feet crouches a grisly bear, feed- 
ing upon clusters from a grape-vine, 
which, with a sheaf of wheat, are em- 
blematic of the peculiar characteristics 
of the country. The sheaf of wheat and 
grape-vine add to the harmony of the 
design, as Ceres sat beside Minerva in 
the councils of the gods. A miner is 
engaged at work, with a rocker and 
bowl at his side, illustrating the golden 
wealth of the Sacramento, upon whose 
waters are seen shipping, typical of com- 
mercial greatness ; and the snow-clad 
peaks of the Sierra Nevada make up the 
background. Above, is the Greek mot- 
to, *' Eureka" (I have found it), apply- 
ing either to the principle involved in 
the admission of the state, or the success 
of the miners at work. The remainder of 
the vignette, we will say, en j^assant, is 
a scene in the valley of the Sacramento. 

California Alta, in its full extent, 
as acquired b.y the United States from 
the republic of Mexico, lies between the 
32d and 42d degrees of north latitude, 
and between the 106th and 124th de- 
grees of longitude west from Green- 
wich ; and is bounded north by the 
territory of Oregon ; east by the Indian 
territory and New Mexico ; south by 
the river Gila, which separates it from 
the Mexican states of Chihuahua and 
Sonora, and by California Baja ; and 
west by the Pacific ocean, on which it 
has a fi'ont of 970 miles. The area in- 
cluded within these limits is estimated 
at 500,000 square miles. California 
Alta is now divided into the state of 
California and the territory of Utah. 

The boundaries of the state of Cali- 
fornia, as established by Congress, in its 
act admitting California into the Union, 
are as follows : — 

Commencing at the point of intersec- 
tion of 42d degree of north latitude with 
120th degree of longitude west from 
Greenwich, and running south on the 
line of said 120th dejriee of west lonofi- 
tude until It intersects the 39th degree 



of north latitude, thence running in a 
straight line in a southeasterly direction 
to the river Colorado, at a point where 
it intersects the 35th degree of north 
latitude, thence down the middle of the 
channel of said river, to the boundary 
line between the United States and Mex- 
ico, as established by the treaty of May 
30, 1848 ; thence running west along 
said boundary line to the Pacific ocean, 
and extending therein three English 
miles ; thence running in a noi'thwester- 
ly direction, and following the direction 
of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of 
north latitude, thence on the line of said 
42d degree of north latitude to the place 
of beginning. Also all the islands, har- 
bors, and bays along and adjacent to the 
Pacific coast. 

This grand division of California (the 
only part, indeed, to which the name 
properly applies) is traversed from north 
to south by two principal ranges of 
mountains, called respectively Sierra 
Nevada, which divides the I'egion from 
the great basin, and the coast range, run- 
ning almost parallel to and a short dis- 
tance from the Pacific coast. The main 
feature of this region is the long, low, 
broad, valley of the San Joaquin and 
Sacramento rivers, the two valleys form- 
ing one five hundred miles long and 
about sixty broad. Lateral ranges, par- 
allel with the Sierra, make the structure 
of the country, and break it into a sur- 
face of valleys and mountains, the valleys 
a few hundreds and the mountains from 
two to four thousand feet above the sea. 
These form greater masses and become 
more elevated in the north, where some 
peaks, as the Shasti, enter the regions 
of perpetual snow. The great valley 
is discriminated only by the names of 
the rivers that traverse it. It is a single 
geographical formation, lying between 
the two ranges, and stretching across 
the head of the bay of San Francisco, 
with which a delta of twenty-five miles 
connects it. 

Opposite the head of the bay of San 
Francisco and at the point where the Sac- 
ramento and San Joaquin river debouche, 
occurs the only break or gap in the range 
of mountains which forms the western 
boundary of the great valley, and (ac- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



607 



cording to Fremont's map), run from 
the Oregon line to the 34th parallel, at 
an average elevation of two thousand 
feet. The portion of the valley which 
lies southeast of this point is called the 
valley of the San Joaquin, It is about 
three hundred miles long, and sixty 
broad, and presents a vai'iety of soil, 
from dry and unproductive to well wa- 
tered and luxuriantly fertile. Upon the 
eastern side, it is intersected by numer- 
ous streams from the Sierra which form 
large and beautiful bottom of rich land, 
wooded principally with white oak in 
open groves of trees, often six feet in 
diameter and sixty to eighty high. The 
larger streams only pass entirely across 
the valley. The low, or foot hills, of the 
Sierra Nevada, which limit the valley, 
make a woodland country, well-watered 
and diversified. This section of the val- 
ley is well adapted to the cultivation of 
the grape, and will probably become the 
principal vine-growing region of Cali- 
fornia. The rolling • surface of the hills 
piesents many sunny exposures, shelter- 
ed from the winds, and having a soil 
and climate highly favorable to this pur- 
pose. The vine thrives in California in 
an extraordinary manner. It is already 
cultivated to a considerable extent, and 
the wine produced is of very excellent 
quality. Intelligent cultivation alone 
seems needed to make wine in quanti- 
ties sufficient both for consumption and 
exportation. The uplands bordering 
the valleys of the larger streams are 
wooded with evergreen oaks, and the 
intervening plains are timbered with the 
same tree, among prairie and open land. 
The surface is level, plain and undula- 
ting or rolling gi'ound. The soil is rich, 
and admirably adapted to the cultivation 
of wheat, which yields enormous crops. 
The grasses are various and luxuriant ; 
and oats grow wild, coveting large 
tracts with a dense growth frequently 
as high as the head of a man mounted 
upon horseback. 

Around the southern arm of the bay 
of San Friincisco, a low alluvial bottom 
land, with occasional woods of oak, 
borders the western foot of the mount- 
ain ranges, terminating on a breadth of 
thirty miles in the valley of San Jose. 



This valley, in connexion with that of 
San Juan forms a continuous plain fifty- 
five miles in length, and one mile to 
twenty in breadth opening into smaller 
valleys among the hills. Shut in be- 
tween the coast range and the lower 
hills upon the sea, with a soil of singular 
fertility, a pure, and dry atmosphere, 
and a soft and delicious climate, this 
valley, opening directly upon the bay of 
San Francisco, appears to unite more 
inducements to settlement than any oth- 
er portion of California. It is wooded 
with majestic trees, covered with the 
richest grasses, brilliant with an endless 
variety of wild flowers, produces in pro- 
fusion the fruits of the temperate and 
tropical zones, and breaks into secluded 
glens and wild recesses among the hills. 
All the tourists speak of it as a most 
attractive and beautiful spot. 

North of the bay of San Francisco, 
between the Sacramento valley and the 
coast, the country is cut into mountain 
ridges and rolling hills, with many fertile 
and watered valleys. In the interior it 
is generally well wooded with oak ; 
and, immediately along the coast, it pre- 
sents open prairie land lying among 
heavily timbered forests, and frequently 
covered for miles with a dense growth 
of wild oats. To the eastward of this 
tract, and intermediate between the coast 
range and the Sierra Nevada, stretches 
fi-om the head of the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin rivers to the mountains 
upon the forty-first parallel, that division 
of the country which is called the valley 
of the Sacramento. It is about two 
hundred miles long and sixty wide, 
watered by the Rio Sacramento and its 
affluents. It presents a diversity of 
heavily wooded plateaux, rich prairie 
land, fertile slopes, alluvial bottoms and 
strips of yellow gravelly soil. Many 
parts of it are well adapted to grazing, 
and its general character fits it in an 
eminent degree for the cultivation of 
wheat. 

fjpon the foriy-first parallel, in a fork 
of the Sierra Nevada, is a tract of high 
table land, about one hundred miles in 
length, surrounded on all sides by mount- 
ains, which is called by Fremont the 
Upper Valley of the Sacramento. It is 



608 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



heavily timbered, and its climate and 
productions are greatly modified by its 
altitude and more northern position. The 
Sacramento river w^hich rises in the 
mountains at its northern extremity, 
reaches the lower valley through a canon 
on the line of Shastle peak, falling two 
thousand feet in tw^enty miles. 

The largest river in Upper California 
is the Colorado, which after a course of 
a thousand miles, empties into the gulf 
of California about thirty-two degiees 
north. The name of this river is des- 
criptive of its waters ; they are as deep- 
ly colored as those of the Missouri, or 
Red river. It rises and flows through 
a region very little known, and inhabit- 
ed by numerous tribes of savages, who 
manifest the most decided hostility to all 
who attempt to enter and explore it. 

But by far the most important rivers 
of California are the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin. The San Joaquin rises 
in the Sierra Nevada, near ths southern 
extremity of the valley. It is fed by 
many larger tributaries from the Sierra 
and empties into the bny of San Fran- 
cisco after a course of about two hun- 
dred miles. It is navigable in some 
seasons during eight months of the year, 
and for a greater part of its length. 
The chief tributaries of the San Joaquin 
are the Reyes, the Stanislaus, the Java- 
lones, the Merced, and the Cosumnes 
rivers. The Sacramento rises above lati- 
tude forty-two degrees north, and runs 
from north to south, nearly parallel with 
the coast of the Pacific until it empties, 
after a course of about two hundred 
miles, into the bay of San Francisco, in 
latitude thirty-eight and a half degrees 
north. It runs through an inclined al- 
luvial prairie, and is described by all 
writers as a deep, broad, and beautiful 
stream. This river is destined to be- 
come a very important feature in the 
development of the country. It com- 
municates directly with the bay, flows 
through a very fertile region and is al- 
ready navigable for vessels of consider- 
able draught as high up as the setile- 
ments at Nueva Helvetia. Its principal 
tributaries are the Rio de los Americanos 
and ihe Rio de las Plumas. 

One of the most important features of 



California is the bay of San Francisco. 
It was discovered about 1768 by a party 
of Franciscan monks, who bestowed 
upon it the name of their patron saint. 
All writers unite in pronouncing it one 
of the most splendid harbors in the world. 
It is completely land-locked, and suffi- 
ciently capacious to meet the require- 
ments of the most extended commerce. 
Approaching from the sea, the coast 
presents a bold outline. On the south, 
the bordering mountains come down in 
a narrow range of hills, against which 
the sea breaks heavily. On the north- 
ern side, the ridge presents a bold 
promontory, rising in a few miles to a 
height of three thousand feet. Between 
these two points, with abrupt and lofty 
cliffs upon each side, is a narrow strait 
about one mile wide and five in length, 
with a depth of water in mid-channel of 
forty to forty-five fathoms, which forms 
the entrance into the bay. This is called 
Chrysopolae, or the Golden Gate. Be- 
yond this gate the bay of San Francisco 
opens to the right and left, extending in 
each direction about thirty-five miles, 
having a total length of more than sev- 
enty miles, and an inland coast of two 
hundred and seventy-five in extent. 
Within, the view presented is of an in- 
terior lake of deep water lying between 
parallel langes of mountains. Islands, 
some of them mere masses of rock, and 
others covered with grasses, and three 
to eight hundred feet in height, give its 
surface a picturesque appearance. It is 
divided, by projecting points and straits, 
into thi'ee separate bays. At its north- 
ern extremity is Whaler's harbor, which 
communicates by a strait two miles in 
length, with the bay of San Pablo, a 
circular basin ten miles in diameter ; 
and this again at its northeastern ex- 
tremity by another strait of greater length 
connects with Suissun bay, which is of 
nearly equal magnitude and form as that 
of San Pablo, Into Suissun bay the 
confluent waters of the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin rivers empty. The main 
bay of San Francisco lies to the south- 
ward. 

The climate of California, as a neces- 
sary result of the configuration and ex- 
tent of the country, presents marked 



DESCRIPTION OF THB STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



609 



contrast in the different divisions which 
have been described. With reference 
to the whole country, the year may be 
divided into the wet .season and the dry. 
The wet season begins in November, 
and terminates in April. During this 

f)eriod the rain does not fall continuous- 
y, and fieijuent intervals of clear and 
beautiful weather occur for many days 
in succession. Rain sometimes falls 
without intermission for eight or ten 
days, followed by spells of sunshine ; 
and frequently- the weather is fine until 
the afternoon, when the clouds gather. 
The rain during this season is not con- 
tinuously .-steady and violent, but warm 
and often drizzling. Usually from May 
until November no rain falls. There 
are exceptions, however, for rain some- 
times descends in August. Apart from 
the mere physical discomfort, the sense 
of which is soon lost, the wet season is 
healthy and delightful, and during its 
continuance the country wears its most 
beautiful aspect. With the first rains 
in November, the grass, clovei-, and wild 
oats, spring up spontaneously; the trees 
are clothed with fiesh foliage, the flow- 
ers display their rich colors, the com- 
paratively arid soil is covered with 
diversified vegetation, and by Christmas 
the land in its broad extent is green and 
beautiful. Upon the coast and the shore 
of the bay, the climate is cooler and less 
agreeable than in the interior. This is 
owing to the northwest winds which 
frequently bring with them dense fogs 
which are cold relatively to the mean 
temperature. These fogs, however, are 
not of that raw and piercing kind that 
affect the constitution. They bear no 
seeds of disease. These characteristics 
of climate are perhaps more marked at 
San Francisco than at any other point, 
and the experience of nearly a century 
affords conclusive evidence that they do 
not injuriously affect health. It is sel- 
dom c(jld enough in the settled portions 
of Califoinia to congeal water. Snow 
rarely falls in the valleys, and the ther- 
mometer seldom sinks below fifty de- 
grees or rises above eighty degrees. In 
the great valley bordering upon the 
lower slopes of the Sierra, the climate 
is peculiarly delightful. There are no 



prevailing diseases in the country, and 
the extremes of heat in the summer are 
checked by sea-breezes during the day, 
and by light airs from the Sierra during 
the night. The climate generally re- 
sembles that of Italy, and its charac- 
teristics are salubrity and a regulated 
mildness. 

A stranger arriving at San Francisco 
in summer is annoyed by the cold winds 
and fogs, and pronounces the climate 
intolerable. A few months will modify 
if not banish his dislike, and he will not 
fail to appreciate the beneficial effects 
of a cool, bracing atmosphere. Those 
who approach California overland, 
through the passes of the mountains, 
find the heat of summer, in the middle 
of the day, greater than they have been 
accustomed to, and therefore many com- 
plain of it. 

Those who take up their residence in 
the valleys which are situated between 
the great plain of the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin, and the coast range of 
hills, find the climate, especially in the 
dry season, as healthful and pleasant as 
it is possible for any climate to be which 
possesses sufficient heat to mature the 
cereal grains and edible roots of the 
temperate zone. 

The division of the year into two dis- 
tinct seasons — dry and wet — impresses 
those who have been accustomed to the 
variable climate of the Atlantic slates 
unfavorably. The dry appearance of 
the country in summer and the difficulty 
of moving about in winter seem to im- 
pose serious difficulties in the way of 
agricultural prosperity, while the many 
and decided advantages resulting from 
the mildness of winter, and the bright, 
clear weather of summer, are not appre- 
ciated. We ought not to be sur])rised 
at the dislike which the immigrants fre- 
quently express to the climate. It is so 
unlike that from which they come, that 
they cannot readily apprecriate its ad- 
vantages, or become reconciled to its 
extremes of dry and wet. 

If a native of California were to go 
to New England in winter, and see the 
ground frozen and covered with snow, 
the rivers with ice, and find himself in a 
temperature many degrees colder than 



39 



610 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



he had ever felt before, he would proba- 
bly be as much surprised that people 
could or would live in so inhospitable a 
region, as any immigrant ever has been 
at what he has seen or felt in California. 

So much are our opinions influenced 
by early impressions, the vicissitudes of 
the seasons with which we are familiar, 
love of country, home and kindred, that 
we ought never to hazard a hasty opin- 
ion, when we come in contact with cir- 
cumstances entirely different from those 
til which we have all our lives been ac- 
customed. 

Population. — Humboldt, in his Essay 
on New Spain, states the population of 
Upper California, in 1802, to have con- 
sisted of converted Indians, 15,562; oth- 
ei- classes, 1,300; total, 16,862. Alex- 
ander Foi'bes, in his history of Upper 
and Lower California, published in 
London in 1839, states the number of 
converted Indians in the former to have 
been in 1831, 18,683; of all other classes, 
at 4,342 ; total, 23,025. He expresses 
the opinion that the number had not 
varied much up to 1835, and the proba- 
bility is, there was very little increase in 
the white population until the emigrants 
from the United Slates began to enter 
the country in 1838. 

They increased, fi'om year to yieai\ so 
that, 1846, Col. Fremont had little diffi- 
culty in calling to his standard some five 
hundred fighting men. 

At the close of the war with Mexico 
it was supposed that there were, inclu- 
ding discharged volunteers, from ten to 
fifteen thousand Americans and Cali- 
fornians, exclusive of converted Indians, 
in the territory. The immigration of 
American citizens in 1849, up to the Isl 
January, 1850, was estimated at eighty 
thousand — of foreigners, at twenty thou- 
sand. 

Of the present permanent population 
of the state of California, it is not easy to 
form even an approximative estimate. 
While thousands of fresh immigrants are 
constantly arriving there, large numbers, 
whose residence has been merely a tran- 
sient one, are constantly leaving. The 
returning tide, however, is far less than 
that which tends thitherward ; and con- 
sequently, the permanent population of 



this young Pacific state is rapidly in- 
creasing, and may be set down at the 
close of 1851, as upward of two hundred 
thousand. 

It is quite impossible to form anything 
like an accurate estimate of the number 
of Indians in the territory. Since the 
commencement of the war, and especial- 
ly since the discovery of gold in the 
mountains, their numbers at the missions 
and in the valleys near the coast have 
very much diminished. In fact, the 
whole race seems to be rapidly disap- 
pearing. 

The remains of a vast number of vil- 
lages in all the valleys of the Sierra Ne- 
vada, and among the foot-hills of that 
range of mountains, show that at no 
distant day there must have been a nu- 
merous population where there is not 
now an Indian to be seen. There are 
a few still retained in the service of the 
old Californians, but these do not amount 
to more than a few thousand in the 
whole territory. It is said there are 
large numbers of them in the mountains 
and valleys about the head waters of 
the San Joaquin, along the western base 
of the Sierra, and in the northern part 
of the territory, and that they are hostile. 
A number of Americans were killed by 
them during the summer of 1849, in at- 
tempting to penetrate high up the rivers 
in search of gold ; they also drove one 
or two parties from Trinity river. They 
have in several instances attacked par- 
ties coming from or returning to Oregon, 
in the section of the country which the 
lamented Captain Warner was examin- 
ing when he was killed. 

It is also impossible to form any 
estimate of the number of these mount- 
ain Indians. Some suppose there are 
as many as 300,000 in the territory, but 
it is not probable that there is one third 
of that number. 

The small bands which are met, scat- 
tered through the lower portions of the 
foot-hills of the Sierra, and the valleys 
between them and the coast, seem to be 
almost of the lowest grade of human 
beings. They live chiefly on acoms, 
roots, insects, and the kernel of the pine 
burr — occasionally they catch fish and 
game. They use the bow and arrow, 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



611 



but are said to be too lazy and effeminate 
to make successful hunters. And they 
do not appear to have the slighest in- 
clination to cultivate the soil, nor do they 
even attempt it — except when they are 
induced to enter the service of the white 
inhabitants. They have never pretended 
to hold any interest in the soil, nor have 
they been treated by the Spanish or 
American immigrants as possessing any. 
The Mexican government never treated 
with them for the purchase of land, or 
the relinquishment of any claim of it 
whatever. They are lazy, idle to the 
last degree, and, although they are said 
to be willing to give their services to 
any one who will provide them with 
blankets, beef, and bread, it is with much 
difficulty they can be made to perform 
labor enough to reward their employers 
for these very limited means of comfort. 
Formerly, at the missions, those who 
were brought up and instructed by the 
priests, made very good servants. Ma- 
ny of those now attached to families 
seem to be faithful and intelligent. But 
those who are at all in a wild and un- 
cultivated state are most degraded ob- 
jects of filth and idleness. 

It is possible that government might, 
by collecting them together, teach them, 
in some degree, the arts and habits of 
civilization; but, if we may judge of the 
future from the past, they will disappear 
from the face of the earth as the settle- 
ments of the whites extend over the 
country. 

Previous to the occupation of the 
California territory, by the Americans, 
and the discovery of the rich gold de- 
posites in the valley of the Sacramento, 
the principal towns in California, were 
Monterey (the ancient capital), San 
Francisco, San Jose, San Diego (a port 
in the south), and Los Angeles. None 
of these were of much importance, nor 
was their connexion with the commercial 
world, otherwise than very limited. 

Since these great events, however, a 
new era has commenced, and the whole 
region has experienced one of the might- 
iest revolutions in the history of man- 
kind. The old settlements above alluded 
to have become large cities, new towns 
have sprung up with almost fabulous 



rapidity, a living tide has inundated the 
country, from all parts of the habitable 
globe. Wherever a site eligible for 
commerce or trade is found, there we 
now see the germ of a future city or 
perhaps a city grown to considerable 
proportions. Everything is progressive; 
and where a few years ago the popula- 
tion could be numbered by thousands, 
it now numbers hundreds of thousands, 
and yet the tide flows on, and every 
week witnesses the ai-rival of enterpri- 
sing immigrants, to become citizens of 
a state whose wealth and futui'e position 
in the world bid fair to vie with those 
of Tyre in the days of its greatest glory. 
To attempt to describe the towns and 
cities of this young state in detail, while 
everything connected with them is in 
such a rapid transition state, were worse 
than useless; for what might be true to- 
day would be so far distanced, as to 
convey in effect a totally false impression 
to-morrow. Our notices, therefore, will 
be confined to a few of the more promi- 
nent cities ; and even with them, with 
one or two exceptions, our sketches 
must necessarily be bnef, and confined 
rather to the geographical position, and 
natural local advantages, than an attempt 
to portray the full measui-e of their pres- 
ent growth and prosperity. 

San Francisco. — The city of San 
Francisco is situated on the west side 
of the bay of that name, and on the 
northern point of the peninsula which 
lies between the southern portion of the 
bay and the Pacific ocean. It is about 
four miles from the narrows or straits 
by which the bay is entered from the 
sea. The immediate site of the city is 
an indentation or cove in the western 
shore of the bay, directly in front of 
which, and at a distance of about two 
miles, lies a large island called Yerba 
Buena. Fi'om the water's edge the land 
rises gi-adually for more than half a mile, 
to the west and southwest, until it ter- 
minates in a range of hills five hundred 
feet in height at the back of the city. 
To the north of the city is an immense 
bluff (or rather three in one) more than 
five hundred feet high, which comes 
down to the water's edge, with precip- 
itous sides of from twenty to one hun- 



612 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFOENIA. 



(lied feel in height. In fioiit of this 
bluff is the best anchorage giound, the 
bottom being good and the liigh lands 
piotecting vessels from the force of the 
westerly winds. Between this bluff and 
the above-mentioned hill, there is a small 
and nearly level valley which connects 
with a smaller cove about a mile nearer 
the ocean. The bluff forms the north- 
western boundary of the cove, while the 
eastern boundary is .-mother bluff, called 
the Rincon, nearly fifty feet in height. 
To the south and soutliwest of this last- 
men; ioned point theie is a succession of 
low sand hills, covered with a dense 
growth of stunied trees peculiar to the 
country. 

From the geographical position of 
San Francisco, its location immediately 
upon the bay, and its proximity to the 
gold regions, which must supply all the 
exports, it must eventually become the 
marl of an extensive commerce with 
Asia and the inlands of the Pacific. 
Never in the annals of a nation hns any 
city risen to importance at such a rapid 
rate as this. At the commencement of 
1849, it was a mere village, compo'^ed 
(if a few miserable-looking huts stand- 
ing beneath the bleak and woodless hills. 
Now thousands of houses and stores, and 
evidences of the most civilized life are 
seen. Where, in 1848, but a single 
vessel might occasionally be seen in the 
harbor, now hundreds of vessels of every 
size and from almost every nation of the 
earth throng the noble bay. The follow- j 
ing brief skftch of San Francisco, as it 
appeared in December, 1849, by Bayard 
Taylor, will give an idea of tlie rapid 
growth of this remarkable city. It is 
the more interesting, as it describes San 
Francisco at a period just anterior to the 
check its prosperity received by the oc- 
currence of the first of those disastrous 
conflagrations which have since several 
times laid large portions of this unfortu- 
nate city in ashes : — 

"Of all the marvellous phages of the 
hisfeory of the present, the growth of 
San Francisco is the one whirh will 
most tax the belief of the future. Its 
parallel was never known, and shall 
never be beheld again. [ speak ^mly 
of what I saw with my own eyes. When 



I landed there, a little more than four 
months before, I found a scattering toA\-n 
of tents and canvass-houses, with a show 
of frame buildings on one or two streets, 
and a population of about six thousand. 
Now, on my last visit, I saw around me 
an actual metropolis, displaying street 
after street of well-built edifices, filled 
with an active and enterprising people 
and exhibiting every mark of permanent 
commercial prosperity. Then, the town 
was limited to the curve of the bay front- 
ing the anchorage and bottoms of the 
hills. Now, it stretched to the topmost 
heights, followed the shore around point 
after point, and sending back a long arm 
through a gap in the hills, took hold of 
the Golden Gate and was building its 
warehouses on the open strait and al- 
most fronting the blue horizon of the 
Pacific. Then, the gold-seeking sojourn- 
er lodged in muslin rooms and canvass 
garrets, with a philosophic lack of fur- 
niture, and ate his simple though sub- 
stantial fare from pine-boards. Now, 
lofty hotels, gaudy with verandas and 
balconies, were met with in all quartei s, 
furnished with home luxury, and aristo- 
cratic restaurants presented daily their 
hmg bills of fare, rich with the choicest 
technicalities of the Parisian cuisine. 
Then, vessels were coming in day after 
day, to lie deserted and useless at their 
anchorage. Now scarce a day passed, 
but some cluster of sails, bound outward 
through the Golden Gate, took their 
way to all the corners of the Pacific. 
Like tlie magic seed of the Indian jug- 
gler, which grew, blossomed, and bore 
fruit, before the eyes of his spectators, 
San Francisco seemed to have accom- 
plished in a day the growth of half a 
century." 

It was but a brief period after the 
above sketch of San Francisco was pen- 
ned, that that fated city was visited by 
the first of those calamitous fires, above 
referred to, which have six times deso- 
lated its finest streets, and proved a seri- 
ous check to its growth and prosperity. 
The first of these took place on the 24ih 
of December, breaking out in a gam- 
bling-house on Portsmouth square, and 
rapidly spreading to the adjacent t>ui!d- 
ings. in a short time, the finest portion 




m 



614 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



of a lai'ge block of houses was burned 
to the ground. The fire presented a 
fearful spectacle. Fortunately the weath- 
er was calm, as the slightest wind would 
have exposed the entire city to almost 
inevitable destruction. The loss was 
estimated at one million, and a half of 
dollars. With the genuine spirit of Yan- 
kee enterprise, many of the sufferers by 
the fire commenced business the next 
day in tents, and others on the same day 
prej)ared the site of the ruins for the 
erection of new buildings. 

Another fire took place in San Fran- 
cisco, on May 4th, 1850, which destroyed 
over two hundred buildings and prop- 
erty to the amount of over four millions 
of dollars. The fire commenced in the 
United States hotel, and spread with 
terrible rapidity in every direction. It 
was found impossible to arrest its prog- 
ress, except by tearing down a large 
number of houses that presented mate- 
rials for its fury. Moie property was 
consumed than could have been done 
within an equal space in any city of the 
world. 

The third destructive conflagration 
which visited the city of San Francisco 
took place June 13th following, laying 
four large blocks of buildings in ashes, 
and consuming a great amount of valu- 
able property. A portion of the district 
which had suffered from the previous 
fire was again burnt. With great diffi- 
culty the wharves and shipping in the 
harbor were protected from destruction. 
The total loss by this fire has been esti- 
mated at about ;$5, 000,000. 

A fourth disastrous fire was experi- 
enced in San Francisco, on September 
20th, 1850, by which a loss of property 
to the amount of $1,000,000 was occa- 
sioned. The buildings consumed were 
mostly old and of an inferior order. 

Several months now passed, without 
the recurrence of another fire, and it 
was hoped the precaationary preventive 
measures which had been adopted would 
prove effectual against such extensive 
conflagrations in future. But the hope 
proved a delusive one. On the night of 
May 3d, 1851, the anniversary of one of 
the great fires above recorded, anoth- 
er destructive conflaofration occurred 



in this devoted city, by which a large 
portion of the business part of the town 
was destroyed. The number of build- 
ings burnt amounted to over a thou- 
sand. The loss was estimated at ten 
millions of dollars, A number of lives 
were also lost. In one case six persons 
undertook the cai-e of a store supposed 
to be fireproof; the iron-doors and win- 
dow-shutters became expanded by the 
heat to such a degree that it was impos- 
sible to open them, and the inmates were 
all burnt to death. 

Nothing excited so much surprise amid 
the many surprising things that occurred 
the night of this fire, as the little resist- 
ance that was offered to the progress of 
the flames by the splendid and substan- 
tial iron-buildings that had been con- 
structed in the full conviction that fire 
could nut harm them at least. Even 
when the insatiate flames were careering 
wildly elsewhere, laying low the fairest 
fabrics that man's ingenuity could de- 
vise to stay their course, those doing 
business in these iron-houses felt an 
abiding confidence that they should es- 
cape the general ruin. Others enter- 
tained the same idea, and rushed their 
costliest articles into those warehouses, 
and when the fire swept out of existence 
their own combustible houses, consoled 
themselves with the reflection, that a part 
at least of their property was saved. 
But never was confidence more mis- 
placed. It is true iron will not burn, 
but destruction as total fell upon all such 
buildings as if they had been made of 
light wood. 

The one seen in our engraving was an 
iron warehouse which failed to resist the 
devouring element. It was constructed 
of coirugated iron, seventy-five feet long, 
by forty feet wide, and twenty feet high. 
It was composed of plates of iron each 
eight feet long. It was manufactured 
in England, and cost previous to ship- 
ment, three thousand dollars. Corruga- 
ted iron has all the strength of brick- 
work, without its great weight ; and, 
although it has proved to be not fire- 
proof, at least on occasions of such over- 
whelming devastation as destroyed the 
houses we are speaking of, still it is pe- 
culiarly adapted for portable dwellings 



DESCRIPTION OP THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



615 




Iron-Hoose at Saa Francisco. 



and storehouses, being very light, and 
packing so ch^se, that the expense of 
freight is comparatively small. 

The following description of the burn- 
ing of two of these houses is from the 
San Francisco Hei'ald : — 

" We watched the fate of two elegant 
iron-houses — one situated at the corner 
of Washington and Sansome streets, and 
the other occupied by Messrs. Berthelot 
& Cronise, at the corner of Jackson and 
Sansome streets, and never was there a 
more complete wreck, when the fire had 
done with them. The zinc roof caught 
first and burnt as fiercely as if made of 
pine-knots. The flame was of a deep 
blue and looked most singular, beside 
that which rose up from surrounding 
frame buildings. But little smoke issued 
at first — but the heat was greater than 
that of a furnace. The iron pillars and 
plates glowed brightly, in a little while 
they warped, curled like crisp leaves, 
opened, let in the flames to the piles of 
rich merchandise stored wiihin, and in a 
few moments all was over. With a 
tremendous crash they fell in ruins to 
the ground, and long after the wooden 
buildings around were reduced to ashes, 
these glowing heaps of iron threw out 
an intense heat that allowed of no ap- 
proach. And, indeed, when we consid- 
er the fierceness of the heat that arose 
on that memorable night from hundreds 
of burning structures, and piles of costly 
goods — a heat that no one can conceive 



who was not present — it is not to be 
wondered at that even iron succumbed 
before its withering power. From the 
nature of the materials, however, a less 
degree of heal would have produced the 
same effect. Its expansibility will al- 
ways open the interior of a house con- 
structed of iron to the admission of the 
flames, and then it is not more secure 
than if made of wood. In the recent 
conflagration there were five elegant 
buildings constructed of plates of cast- 
iron, three stories high, destroyed, be- 
sides any number of corrugated iron- 
houses. The latter offered no check 
whatever to the fire. They went down 
as a matter of course. They have proven 
equally as insecure as wooden houses, 
and when burnt, more expensive, be- 
cause in their case it does require some 
outlay to clear the ground of the wreck, 
while in the other nothing but a heap of 
ashes remains." 

With energies undaunted by this fifth 
conflagration, more serious by far than 
any which had preceded it, the work of 
rebuilding was immediately commenced, 
and carried forward with such charac- 
teristic rapidity, that within ten days 
after the fire over three hundred and 
fifty buildings were in process of erec- 
tion, and the greater part of them al- 
ready occupied. 

The sixth conflagration occurred on 
the 22d of June, just seven weeks sub- 
sequently to the one just described. 



616 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



Thirteen blocks of buildings were con- 
sumed, and a number of lives were lost. 
The property destroyed amounted to 
from one to two millions of dollars. 

These conflagrations, with many oth- 
ers of lesser note, some or all of them, 
are believed to have been the work of 
incendiaries. Indeed, previous to the 
last fire above recorded, it had become 
demonstrably evident that organized 
bands of malefactors, composed of con- 
victs from the English penal settlements, 
and desperadoes from every quarter of 
the globe, were leagued together for rob- 
bery and plunder; who did not hesitate 
to commit arson and murder in the 
prosecution of their designs. The high- 
est crimes were matters of every-day 
occurrence, not merely in remote dis- 
tricts, but in the towns and cities ; in 
San Fiancisco especially. Under these 
circumstances, a large number of the 
most valuable citizens organized them- 
selves into a committee of vigilance, for 
the purpose of securing the punishment 
of criminals, at all hazards. They open- 
ed a room, at which a certain number of 
the members, detailed for the purpose, 
were to be present day and night. When 
any offence came to their notice which, 
in their opinion, called for the interfer- 
ence of the committee, all the members 
were to be summoned by the ringing of 
a bell. The members all pledged them- 
selves to carry into execution the sen- 
tence of the majority of the body so con- 
vened. 

The committee soon had occasion to 
inaugurate their administration by a pub- 
lic execution, so deliberately performed, 
and so unflinchingly avowed, as to leave 
no doubt of their full determination to 
carry their designs into effect. On the 
10th of June, an English convict from 
Botany Bay, who gave his name as Jen- 
kins, or Jennings, was arrested in the 
act of carrying off a safe which he had 
stolen. He was brought before the com- 
mittee, by whom he was tried, found 
guilty, and sentenced to be hung. This 
sentence was carried into execution the 
same night in the public square. The 
coroner's jury, who held an inquest upon 
the body, named nine members of the 
committee as specially and directly im- 



plicated in the execution. A card was 
immediately issued, signed by nearly 
two hundred persons, avowing that they, 
as members of the committee of vigil- 
ance, weie all participators in the trans- 
action, equally with those whose names 
had been given by the coroner's jury. 

The committee v/cnt on adding to 
their numbers, and increasing the scope 
of their operations. Persons known as 
escaped convicts were ordered to leave 
the country within five days ; and after 
a show of resistance, finding all opposi- 
tion useless, they complied with the or- 
der. Vessels amving from the English 
penal settlements were boarded in the 
harbor, and those on board who proved 
to be escaped convicts, were warned 
not to land. The committee went on to 
establish a central and branch offices, 
organized a patrol, and raised funds for 
carrying on their operations. Persons 

charged with minor offences were hand- 

. • • 1 

ed over to the public authorities, the 

committee taking care to keep in their 
own hands the adjudication of those ca- 
ses which seemed to require a prompt 
decision, thus keeping up the prestige 
which they had gained by their first bold 
act. On the 12th of July, a Sydney con- 
vict named Stuart, was brought before 
the committee on a charge of robbery. 
He proved to be the ringleader of a 
gang of desperadoes, who had long in- 
fested the country. He was found guil- 
ty, and the tolling of tlie bell summoned 
the public to witness the act of execu- 
tion. The criminal was bi'ought out, 
pinioned, and escorted by more than five 
hundred members of the committee, and 
executed in broad day, in the presence 
of a great crowd, without show of tu- 
mult or resistance. Previous to his 
death he made a long confession of the 
ci imes he had committed, and implicated 
a number of persons as accomplices. 

Subsequently two Sydney burglars 
named Whittaker and M'Kenzie were 
arrested, tried, condemned, and sen- 
tenced by the vigilance committee to 
be hung. But a few hours before the 
period fixed for their execution, they 
were rescued by the governor, with aid 
of the sheriff and his subordinates. The 
[vigilance committee, believing that the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



617 



authorities by this act, intended to shield 
them from all punishment, watched their 
opportunity, obtained access to the pi'ison 
where the convicts were confined, tof)k 
them forcibly out, and carried out their 
sentence against them, by hanging them 
upon the outer walls of the building in 
which their committee-rooms were lo- 
cated. 

Several other criminals were arrested 
and as summarily executed under the 
direction of the vigilance committee, at 
Sacramento city, Monterey, and other 
places — but the details already given are 
amply sufficient to show the determined 
course of action pursued by this com- 
mittee, to repress and punish outrages 
against person and property, by nuans 
they deemed more prompt and sure th&n 
those furnished by the ordinary admin- 
istration of the law. And, although in 
the executions that took place, not a 
shadow of doubt existed of the guilt of 
the convicts — indeed, they all acknowl- 
edged the justice of their fate — yet, it 
is to be regretted that the trial and pun- 
ishment of these miserable outcasts could 
not have been left to the legitimate, 
though perhaps imperfect and tardy 
process of the courts of justice. But at 
this distance from the scene of these 
events, so difficult is it to form a correct 
judgment as to the necessity that called 
for the organization of this self-con- 
stituted tribunal of justice — so impossi- 
ble is it to fully appreciate the critical 
position in which life and property were 
placed by the congregating there of Bot- 
any Bay convicts, and desperadoes from 
all parts of the world, and who, through 
the inefficiency of the legal authorities, 
went " unwhipt of justice" — that we 
should hesitate before pronouncing con- 
demnation upon the foimation and sub- 
sequent action of a committee, number- 
ing among its members some of the 
most respectable and valuable citizens 
of San Francisco. 

Still, there is danger, that, as prece- 
dents for future guidance of bodies of 
men, less cool and unerring in their judg- 
ment, and more impulsive and less scru- 
pulous in their proceedings, the formation 
and acts of this committee may lead to 
results far more injurious to the com- 



munity, than a longer endurance of the 
evils which its measures were intended 
to eradicate. Heaven grant that the 
seed thus sown in that susceptible soil 
may not prove the germ of a bohun-upas 
hereafter to spring up and jioison the 
moral and social atmosphere of that oth- 
erwise promising and thriving young Pa- 
cific state. 

San Francisco has now (November, 
1851), a population of about forty thou- 
sand, with one hundred miles of streets 
laid out, and sustains several daily pa- 
pers. It has recovered entirely from the 
disastrous effects of the two great fires 
of May and June, the space burnt over 
having been completely rebuilt in far 
better style than before. Numerous fire- 
proof and stone buildings have been 
erected, and the city in various respects 
is far better prepared to resist a confla- 
gration than ever befoi'e. 

The number of arrivals of steamers 
and sail-vessels from foreign ports dur- 
ing the past year was close upon two 
thousand, about half as numerous as 
those of New York, and much more 
numerous than those of any other port 
in the Union. There are now eleven 
steamers, regularly traversing the Pa- 
cific, in addition to five others in the 
Panama and Oregon trade. There are 
also about fifty steamers engaged on the 
river-trade, and over three hundred oth- 
er crafts of various kinds navigating the 
rivers and bay. The amount of gold 
shipped from San Francisco, during 1850, 
was over forty millions of dollars. That 
of 1851 will be much larger. 

The view of San Francisco, given on 
page 613, is taken from the foot of Tele- 
graph hill, looking from Ringon point 
and Mission valley. The city is given 
boldly in the middle-foregronnd, while 
the harbor, with its imposing grandeur 
and beauty covered with a forest of 
masts, stretches away in the perspective. 
The foreground is characteristic and 
truthful of the neighborhood of the city, 
and the belongings of the gold country. 

Sacramento City. — The plan of Sac- 
ramento city is very simple. It is situ- 
ated on the west bank of the Sacramento 
river, at its junction with the Rio Amei'- 
icano, one hundred and fifteen miles from 



618 



DESeaiPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



San Francisco. The town-plot embraces 
a square of about one and a half miles to a 
side. The site of the city was covered 
with oaks and sycamores of gigantic size, 
which have been cut down as far as is 
absolutely necessary to make room for 
buildings, and the trees that are left 
standing give the place an air not unlike 
that of one of the oldest and best-shaded 
towns of New England. It is laid out 
in regular right-angles, after the plan of 
Philadelphia, those streets running east 
and west named after the alphabet, and 
those north and south after the arith- 
metic. 

The rapid growth of this " city in 
the woods" seems like the fabled pro- 
ductions of the magician's wand. In 
April, 1849, the town contained four 
houses. Six months later, the number 
of inhabitants, in tents and houses, was 
little short of ten thousand. At the pres- 
ent time, the population amounts to about 
fifteen thousand. 

The aspect of Sacramento city on ap- 
proaching it from the river is decidedly 
more novel and picturesque than that of 
any other town in the country. The 
forest of masts along the embarcadero 
(but which does not appeal- in our engra- 
ving, as it would intercept the view of the 
city) rivals the noble growth of the soil. 

The city is settled principally by New- 
Yorkers, New- Jersey men, and emigrants 
from the western states. In activity and 
public spirit it is not behind San Fran- 
cisco, while its growth, in view of the 
difference of location is more remark- 
able. 

In the month of January, 1849, a great 
overflow of the Sacramento river oc- 
curred, deluging the country both above 
and below, the city of Sacramento, the 
flood extending in many places like an 
immense sea over the whole breadth of 
the valley. The coui'se of the river was 
indicated only by the trees and shrub- 
bery with which the banks were covered. 
A great number of horses and cattle 
were swept away by the flood and 
drowned. The wood-cutters and char- 
coal-burners on the banks of the river 
were obliged to climb into treei in order 
to save their lives. On the night of 
January 9th, the city of Sacramento was 



entirely submerged, and remained un- 
der water for several days. The streets 
in which the principal business opera- 
tions were conducted were swept com- 
pletely through by the raging torrent. 
Every description of merchandise was 
borne away in the mighty rush-. Boats 
navigated the streets, taking passengers 
from the second stories of the dwelling- 
houses. The ridge of high land in the 
rear of the city was studded with tents, 
and man and beast, seeking safety in 
flight, were crowded together in dire con- 
fusion. Sutterville, situated a few miles 
below Sacramento city, was overflowed. 
The ranches back of the river suffered 
the same fate. A large amount of prop- 
erty was destroyed by this inundation, 
but it is believed that no lives were lost. 
A strong embankment has since been 
erected along the bank of the Sacra- 
mento, which will protect the city fi-om 
a like calamity in future. 

A serious disturbance occurred during 
the month of August, 1849, in the city of 
Sacramento, growing out of the disputes 
between the squatters and landholders. 
An armed body of the squatters pro- 
ceeded through the streets of the city, 
and a collision ensuing between them 
and the authoiities, several persons were 
shot and some mortally wounded. The 
city was placed under martial law, and 
it was several days before tranquillity 
was restored. 

San Jose (pronounced San-hosa), the 
late capital of California, is sixty miles 
south of San Francisco, and nine miles 
from the south end of San Francisco bay. 
It is situated in a valley of rich land 
twenty miles wide by seventy long. It 
is an old Spanish town, and has some 
fine gardens, fruit-trees, &c. The cli- 
mate is considered very fine. From 
eight o'clock in the morning to four in 
the evening the sun has great power, 
and the themiometer rises up to eighty 
and ninety degrees. The whole day a 
fine breeze is blowing, so that persons 
in the shade are very comfortable; but 
in the sun it is sometimes oppressive. 
After four o'clock it gradually becomes 
cool, sometimes making a fire necessary 
for comfort; indeed, generally a little 
fire after dark is pleasant. The nights 



620 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



being cool, sleep is sound and reftesh- 
ing. The sky is ever bright, except 
when fogs occasionally arise during the 
nifht; but when they do, the morniug 
sun soon dispels them. 

San Jose, from its pleasant and healthy 
locality, will probably become the resi- 
dence of many wealthy families who do 
business elsewhere. Many gentlemen, 
merchants of San Francisco, have al- 
ready purchased residences here. San 
Jose hns daily communication with San 
Francisco, by stage and steamer. A 
railroad between the two places has also 
been projected. 

Monterey, the ancient capital of Alta 
California, is about one hundred miles 
south of San Francisco. The situation 
of the city is admirable. The houses 
are built on a broad, gentle slope of 
laud, about two miles from Point Pinos, 
the southern end of the bay of Montei'ey. 
They are scattered over an extent of 
three fourths of a mile, leaving ample 
room for the growth of the city for 
many years to come. The outline of the 
hills in the rear is somewhat similar to 
those of Staten Island, near the city of 
New York, but they increase in height 
as they run to the southeast, till at the 
distance of four miles they ai'e merged 
in the mountains of the coast range. 
Tlie northern shore of the bay is twenty 
miles distant, curving so far to the west, 
that the Pacific is not visible from any 
part of the city. Eastv/ard, a high, rocky 
ridge, called the Tora mountains, makes 
a prominent object in the view, and 
when the air is clear, the Sierra de Gavi- 
lan, beyond the Salinas plains, is dis- 
tinctly visible. 

The barber of Monterey is equal to 
any in California. The bight in which 
vessels anchor is entirely protected from 
the northwesters, by Seagull point, and 
from the southeastern winds by mount- 
ains in the rear. In the absence of hght- 
houses, the dense fog renders navigation 
dangerous on this coast, and in spite of 
an entrance twenty-five miles in breadth, 
vessels frequently run below Point Pinos, 
and are obliged to anchor on unsafe 
ground in Carmel bay. A road leads 
from the town over the hills to the ex- 
mission of Carmel situated at the head 



of the bay, about four miles distant. 
Just beyond it is Point Lobos, a prom- 
ontory on the coast, famous for the num- 
ber of seals and sea-lions which congre- 
gate there at low tide. 

The trade of Monterey has rapidly 
increased since the territory of Califor- 
nia was ceded to the United States. It 
contains about two thousand inhabitants. 
From the salubrity of the climate and 
the cheapness of living at Monterey, it 
will be preferred as a residence by ma- 
ny of those who have retired with a 
competence from their golden labors. 
The pine-crowned slopes back of the 
town contain many sites of unsurpassed 
beauty for private residences. 

With the exception, peihaps, of Los 
Angeles, Monterey contains the most 
pleasant society to be f )und in Califor- 
nia. There is a circle of families, Amer- 
ican and native, residing there whose 
genial and refined social character is in 
strong contrast with the popular idea of 
California life. In spite of the lack of 
cultivation, except such instruction as 
the priests weie competent to give, the 
native population possesses a natural re- 
finement of manners, which would grace 
the most polished society, 

Stockton. — This city is situated on 
sloughs which contain the back wafers 
formed by the junction of the Sacra- 
mento and San Joaquin rivers. Tlie 
town was laid out, in 1849, by Mr. Weav- 
er, who emigrated to the country seven 
years before, and obtained a grant of 
eleven square leagues of land fi'om the 
government, on condition that he would 
retain settlers for the whole'of it within 
a specified time. In planning the town 
of Stockton, he displayed a great deal 
of shrewd business tact, the sale of lots 
having brought him upward of half a 
million of dollars. A great disadvantage 
of the location is the sloughs by which it 
is surrounded ; which in the wet season, 
render the roads next to impassable. 
There seems, however, to be no otlu-r 
central point so well adapted to supply- 
ing the rich district between the Moke- 
lumne and Tuolumne, and Stockton 
will evidently continue to grow witli a 
sure and gradual increase. 

Stockton has been twice desolated by 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



621 



fire. The first took place on the night of 
the 24th of December, 1849, the same 
niglit the first fire occurretl at San Fran- 
cisco. By this fire property was de- 
stroyed to the amount of a quarter of a 
milhon of dollars. Stockton was again 
visited by conflagration, on the 12ih of 
May, 1851. Both of these fires were 
believed to be the work of inceii<liajifs. 

Vai.lejo is a city yet in embryo. It 
is the site where the seat of government 
has been permanently located. Vallejo 
has a water front of about seven miles 
in extent affording a secure anchorage 
for vessels of the largest size. It is 
bounded on the west by Napa bay, on 
the opposite side of which is Mare island, 
recommended by the naval commission- 
ers as the best location for the great 
Pacific navy-yard. 

Although Vallejo is but in its infancy, 
yet many buildings have been put up, and 
many others are in process of construc- 
tion. The statehouse, in course of erec- 
tion, is a subslantiid building, one hun- 
dred feet long by thirty broad, and two 
stories high. The senate-chamber is in 
the upper slory and the assenihly-hall in 
the lower one, one immediately above the 
other. 

The fine climate and healthy and oth- 
er\vi-;e advantageous location of the new 
capital, and the natural resources of the 
surrounding country, will render Vallejo 
a most attractive spot. 

Benicia, once thought to be a rival to 
San Francisco, is situated on the straits 
of Carquinez, thirty-five miles from the 
ocean. It is a very pretty place. The 
situation is well-chosen, the land grad- 
ually sloping back from the water, with 
ample space for the spread of the town. 
Tlie anchorage is exc*.dlent, vessels of 
the larofest size beiner able to lie so near 
shore as to land their cargoes without 
lightering. The back country, including 
the Napa and Sonoma valleys, is one of 
the finest agricultural districts of Cali- 
fornia. Notwithstanding these advanta- 
ges, Benicia must always remain inferior, 
in commercial importance, to boih San 
Francisco and Sacramento city. 

New-York of the Pacific, with its 
awkward but aspiring name, is located 
on a level plain on the southern shore 



of Suissin bay, backed by a range of 
barren mountains. The anchorage is 
good, but it will never be a large town. 

San Diego is a seaport at the south- 
ern extremity of the state of California. 
It is situated at the foot of a high hill, 
on a sand flat, two miles wide, reaching 
from the head of San Diego bay, to False 
bay. A high promontory, of nearly the 
same width, runs into the sea four or 
five miles, and is connected by the flat 
with the main land. The bay is a nar- 
row arm of the sea, indenting the land 
some four or five miles, and having 
twenty feet of water at the lowest tide. 
San Diego is consideied one of the best 
haibors on the Pacific coast. Before 
California came into the possession of 
the United States, the principal trade 
of San Diego was hides, which were 
collected there for exportation. 

Near San Diego, and within a day's 
march of the Pacific ocean, at the head 
of the gulf of California, ancient ruins 
have been discovered, which will interest 
the antiquaiy as much, perhaps, as the 
discovery of gold, has thousands of oth- 
ers. Portions of temples, dwellings, 
lofty stone pyramids (seven of these 
within a mile square), and massive gran- 
ite rings or circular walls, round venera- 
ble trees, columns and blocks of hiero- 
glyphics, all speak of some ancient race 
of men, now for ever gone, their history 
actually unknown to any of the existino- 
families of mankind. In some points, 
these ruins resemble the recently dis- 
covered cities of Palenque, Sec, near the 
Atlantic or Mexican gulf coast; in oth- 
ers, the ruins of ancient Egypt; in oth- 
ers, again, the monumenis of Phoenicia, 
and yet in many features they differ from 
all that have been referred to. It is 
said the discoverers deem them to be 
antediluvian, while the present Indians 
have a tradition of a great civilized na- 
tion, wliich their ferocious forefathers 
utterly destroyed. The region of the 
ruins is called by the Indians "the val- 
ley of mystery." 

There are many other towns and cities 
in California, but they are increasing so 
rapidly in numbers, extent, and popula- 
tion, that it is futile to attempt to de- 
scribe them even had we room. Prob- 



ably a week does not pass without wit- 
nessing the foundation of some new 
town or future city. Some idea may be 
foi"med of the extent of settlement in 
California, from the following list of post- 
offices already established, with the 
names of the towns and counties in which 
they are located. Those in italic are 
county-seats : — 



OFFICES. COUNTIES. 

Antioch, Contra Costa 

Auburn, Placer 

Benicia, Solano 

Bidwell's Bar :.. Butte 

Big Bar, Trinity 

Chico, Butte 



OFFICES. COUNTIES. 

Nevada, Nevada 

Nicolaus, Sutter 

Oak Spring, Tuolumne 

Park's Bar, Yuba 

Placerville, El Dorado 

Quartz burg, Mariposa 



Colusi, Colusi^ough and Ready, ..Nevada 

Coloma, El DoradfiiSara Francisco,. &. Francisco 

Dobbin's Branch, . ~^uba.\ Sacramfrito, Sacramento 

Double Springs, ..Calaveras Salmon Falls, El Dorado 

Downieville, Yuba ' Santa Clara, Santa Clara 



Foster's Bar, Yuba 

Fremont, Yolo 

Georgetown, El Dorado 

Goodyear's Bar, Y'uba 

Hamilton Butte 

Jackson, Calaveras 

Knight's Ferry,. San Joaquiii 

Lassen's Butte 

Los Angeles, ...Los Angeles 

Louisville, El Dorado 

Mariposa, Mariposa, 

Martinez, Contra Costa 

Maryeville Yuba 

Mokelumne Hill, .Calaveras 

Monroeville, Colusi 

Moon's Ranch, Colusi 

Mon terey, Monterey 

Mormon Island, Sacramento 
Napa, Napa 



Sim Jose Santa Clara 

Santa Cruz Santa Cruz 

San Juan, Monterey 

SanLvis Obispo, S. L. Obispo 
Santa Barbara, Sta. Barbara 

San Diego, San Diego 

Shasta, Shasta 

Sonoma, Sonoma 

Sonora, Tuolumne 

Staple's Ranch, . . . Calaveras 

Stockton, San Joaquin 

Trinidad, Trinity 

Vallejo Solano 

Vernon, Sutter 

Volcano Calaveras 

Weaverville, Trinity 

Wood's Diggins, .Tuolumne 
Yuba City, ; . . . Yuba 



Mineral Wealth of California. — 
The gold region of California is about 
six hundred miles long, and eighty miles 
broad, following the line of the Sierra 
Nevada. It embraces within its limits 
those entensive ranges of hills which rise 
on the eastern border of the plain of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin, and ex- 
tending eastwardly from fifty to sixty 
miles, they attain an elevation of about 
four thousand feet, and terminate at the 
base of the main ridge of the Sierra Ne- 
vada. There are numerous streams 
which have their sources in the springs 
of the Sierra, and receive the water from 
its melting snows, and that which falls 
in rain during the wet season. 

These streams form rivers, which have 
cut their channels through the ranges 
of foot hills westwardly to the plain, and 
disembogue into the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin. These rivers are from 
ten to fifteen, and probably some of them 
twenty miles apart. 

The principal formation or substratum 



in these hills is talcose slate ; the super- 
stratum, sometimes penetrating to a 
gi-eat depth, is quartz. This, however, 
does not cover the entire face of the 
country, but extends in large bodies in 
various directions — is found in masses 
and small fragments on the surface, and 
seen along the ravines, and in the mount- 
ains overhanging the rivers, and in the 
hill sides in its original beds. It crops 
out in the valleys and on the tops of the 
hills, and forms a striking, feature of the 
entire country over which it extends. 
From innumerable evidence and indica- 
tions, it has come to be the universally 
admitted opinion among the miners and 
intelligent men who have examined this 
region, that the gold, whether in detached 
^articles and in pieces, or in veins, was 
created in combination with the quartz. 
Gold is not found on the surface of the 
country, presenting the appearance of 
having been thrown up and scattered in 
all directions by volcanic action. It is 
only found in particular localities, and 
attended by peculiar circumstances and 
indications. It is found in the bars and 
shoals of the rivers, in ravines, and in 
what are called the dry-diggings, and in 
all these localities is accessible to any 
man who has the strength to use a pan 
or washer, a spade and pickaxe. 

The rivers, in forming their channels, 
or breaking their way through the hills, 
have come in contact with the quartz 
containing the gold veins, and by con- 
stant attrition cut the gold into fine flakes 
and dust, and it is found among the sand 
and gravel of their beds at those places 
where the swiftness of the current re- 
duces it, in the dry season, to the nar- 
rowest possible limits, and where a wide 
margin is, consequently, left on each 
side, over which the water rushes, dur- 
ing the wet season, with great force. 

As the velocity of some streams is 
greater than others, so is the gold found 
in fine or coarse particles, apparently 
corresponding to the degree of attrition 
to which it has been exposed. The 
water from the hills and upper valleys, 
in finding its way to the rivers, has cut 
deep ravines, and, wherever it came in 
contact with the quartz, has dissolved 
or crumbled it in pieces. 



li 



=n 










624 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



In the dry season these channels are 
mostly without water, and gold is found 
in the beds and margins of many of them 
in large quantities, but in a much coarser 
state than in the rivers ; owing, undoubt- 
edly, to the moderate flow and tempo- 
rary continuance of the current, which 
has reduced it to smooth shapes, not un- 
like pebbles, but had not sufficient force 
to reduce it to flakes or dust. 




Rounded water-worn Pebble of Gold with duartz. 



The dry-diggings are places where 
quartz containing gold has cropped out, 
and been disintegrated, crumbled to frag- 
ments, pebbles, and dust, by the action 
of water and the atmosphere. The gold 
has been left as it was made, in all im- 
aginable shapes ; in pieces of all sizes, 
and from one grain to several pounds in 
weight. The evidences that it was cre- 
ated in combination with quartz are too 
numerous and striking to admit of doubt 
or cavil. They are found in combination 
in large quantities. 

A very large proportion of the pieces 
of gold found in these situations have 
more or less quartz adhering to them. 
In many specimens they are so com- 
bined they can not be separated without 
reducing the whole mass to powder and 
subjecting it to the action of quicksilver. 

This gold, not having been exposed 
to the attrition of a strong current of 



water, retains, in a great degree, its ori- 
ginal conformation. 

These diggings, in some places, spread 
over valleys of considerable extent, which 
have the appearance of alluvion, formed 
by washings from the adjoining hills, of 
decomposed quartz and slate earth, and 
vegetable matter. - 

In addition to these fads, several vein- 
mines have been taken, showing the min- 
ute connexion between the gold and the 
rock, and indicating a value hitherto un- 
known in gold-mining. 

These veins do not present the ap- 
pearance of places where gold may have 
been lodged by some violent eruption. 
It is combined with the quartz, in all 
imaginable forms and degrees of rich- 
ness. 

The rivers present very striking and, 
it would seem, conclusive evidence re- 
specting the quantity of gold remaining 
undiscovered in the quartz veins. It is 
not probable that the gold in the dry 
diggings, and that in the rivers — the 
former in lumps, the latter in dust — was 
created by different processes. That 
which is found in the rivers has undoubt- 
edly been cut or worn from the veins in 
the rock, with which their currents have 
come in contact. All of them appear to 
be equally rich. This is shown by the 
fact that a laboring man may collect 
nearly as much in one river as he can in 
another. They intersect and cut through 
the gold region, running from east to 
west, at irregular distances of fifteen to 
twenty, and perhaps some of them thirty 
miles apart. 

Hence it appears that the gold veins 
are equally rich in all parts of that most 
remarkable section of country. Were 
it wanting, there are further proofs of 
this in the ravines and dry diggings, 
which uniformly confirm what nature so 
plainly shows in the rivers. 

It is now a well-demonstrated fact that 
the gold found in the beds of the streams 
has been cut or worn fi'om the veins in 
the quartz through which they have 
forced their way, and considering that 
they are all rich, and are said to he 
nearly equally productive, we may form 
some idea of the vast amount of treasure 
reraainiuGf undisturbed in the veins which 



626 



DESCRIPTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. 



run through the masses of rock in vari- 
ous directions over a space comprising 
nearly fifty thousand square miles. 

If we may be allowed to foi-m a con- 
jecture respecting the richness of these 
veins from the quantity of lump or coarse 
gold found in the dry diggings, where 
it appears to occupy nearly the same 
superfices it did originally in the rock — 
its specific gravity being sufficient to re- 
sist ordinary moving causes — we shall 
be led to an estimate almost beyond hu- 
man calculation and belief Yet, there 
is no plausible reason why the veins 
which remain in the quartz may not be 
as valuable as those which have become 
separated from ihe decomposed rock. 
This matter is being satisfactorily decided 
by actual discoveries. These gold-bear- 
ing veins have, as yet, been pierced only 
at intervals, but the developments thus 
made, indicate that in her fields and 
ledges of auriferous quartz, California 
possesses an element of wealth, of incal- 
culable extent and value. 

The first experiments in quartz-mining 
were made in 1850, in Mariposa. An 
injudicious location and light machinery 
rendered this first trial in extracting gold 
from quartz comparatively a failure. The 
woi'ks were soon discontinued. Since 
then, improvements in machineiy have 
been made, more eligible locations se- 
lected, and quartz-mining operations are 
being prosecuted with vigor and success. 

The present gi'cat centre of quartz- 
•mining is Grass valley, in Nevada county. 
This town is distant northeasterly from 
Sacramento city about seventy miles. 
The first quartz discoveries at this lo- 
cality, were made about the month of 
November, 1850 ; but no machinery 
was erected until the latter part of the 
winter. So rich did the veins on "Gold 
hill" prove, even by the slow process of 
crushing in hand-mortars and washing 
in water only, that shafts were sunk on 
almost every hill for several miles 
around, in nearly every instance striking 
rich veins. There are between thirty 
and forty hills opened in the single town- 
ship of Grass valley (four and a half 
miles square), and exhibiting incontest- 
able evidence that extensive veins of 
gold-bearing quartz underlie them all. 



The machinery for crushing the quartz 
rock is of course very expensive, and 
not nearly all of those possessing quaitz 
claims have the means wherewith to 
purchase it; cf)nsequently, the principle 
of a division of labor commences to op- 
erate, and in the most favorable manner 
for the miner; that is, the miner gets out 
the rock from his claim, and then sells 
it to the parties owning machinery, who 
crush it and extract the gold. 

There are now about eight mills in 
successful operation in and near the vil- 
lage of Centreville, in Grass valley town- 
ship. Many others are in process of 
erection at the same locality, and still 
others in various parts of Nevada county. 
Centreville is already a thriving village 
of fifteen hundred to two thousand in- 
habitants, with some good dwellings, 
hotels, stores, markets, &c., and a saw- 
mill in active operation, turning out six 
thousand feet of lumber per day, which 
finds ready sale at eighty-five dollars 
per thousand. 

Gold-mining may be said to be but in 
its infancy in California. The gold hith- 
erto obtained, by individual effort, though 
amounting to over a hundred millions of 
dollars, has been gathered by no more 
effort than literally scratching the earth's 
surface, and will prove but an inconsid- 
erable sum, when compared with the 
treasures which combined labor and cap- 
ital, with the aid of efficient machinery, 
will yet bring to light. 

The present condition of California is 
rich in hope and {Promise. While the 
mines continue to yield their golden trib- 
ute without abalement, many are turning 
their attention to agricultural pursuits, 
and large quantities of land have been 
taken up and placed under culture. So- 
ciety is rapidly assuming a regular and 
permanent shape. The tide of immigra- 
tion continues to flow steadily in filling 
the state with a hardy, enterprising pop- 
ulation. Under the benign influence of 
a republican government, with life and 
property protected, and laws properly 
respected and efficiently administered, 
this latest child of our cherished Union 
can not fail to stride forward with giant- 
steps to the maturity of its strength, and 
the flush of consummate prosperity. 



THE TERRITORIES. 



TERRITORY OF OREGON. 



Northwestern America is probably 
the largest portion of the world yet un- 
subdued by cultivation. Till very re- 
cently, in a region comprising more than 
four millions of square miles, two or 
three stations on the Pacific coast, and 
a few hunting-posts and missionary es- 
tablishments in the interior, were the 
only points inhabited by civilized man. 

A portion of this teriitory is the Ore- 
gon country, bounded on the north by 
the parallel fifty-four degrees forty min- 
utes, on the east by the Rocky mount- 
ains, on the south by the Klamet range, 
or Snowy mountains, extending along 
or near the forty-second parallel, and 
on the west by the Pacific ocean. The 
British portion includes all north of lati- 
tude forty-nine degrees, while that be- 
longing to the United States comprises 
all lying south of that parallel. It ex- 
tends about five hundred miles north 
and south, and of average breadth of 
about five hundred miles — being nar- 
rower toward the north and broader 
toward the south, the Rocky mountains 
running in a southeasterly direction. It 
contains, therefore, about two hundred 
and fifty thousand square miles. 

The Oregon territory is divided into 
three natural belts or sections, viz. : 1st. 
That between the Pacific ocean and the 
President's range, or Cascade mount- 
ains, called the western section ; 2d. That 
between the Cascade and Blue mount- 
ain range, or middle section ; 3d. That 
between the Blue and Rocky mountain 
chains, or eastern section : and this di- 
vision will equally apply to the soil, cli- 
mate, and productions. All these divis- 
ions are crossed by the Columbia river ; 
the main stream is formed, in the mid- 
dle region, by the union of several 
branches flowing from the Rocky mount- 



ains, and receiving in their course sev- 
eral smaller streams, draining the inter- 
mediate sections. 

The Cascade range runs parallel with 
the seacoast, the whole length of the 
territory, and rising in many places, in 
regular cones, from twelve to more than 
fourteen thousand feet above the level 
of the sea. 

The distance from the seashore to 
this chain, is from one hundred to one 
hundred and fifty miles, and the ridge 
almost interrupts the communication be- 
tween the first and second sections, ex- 
cept where the Columbia river forces a 
passage through it ; there are a few 
mountain passes, but they are difficult, 
and only to be attempted late in the spring 
and summer. The climate of this section 
is mild throughout the year, experien- 
cing neither the extreme cold of winter 
nor the heat of summer. The prevailing 
winds in the summer are from the north- 
ward and westward, and in the winter, 
from the southward, and westward, and 
southeast, which are tempestuous. The 
winter is supposed to last from Decem- 
ber to February. Rains usually begin 
to fall in November, and last till March ; 
but they are not heavy, though frequent. 
Snow sometimes falls, but it seldom lies 
over three days. The frosts are early, 
occurring in the latter part of August ; 
this, however, is to be accounted for by 
the proximity of the mountains. Fruit- 
trees blossom early in April. The soil, 
in the northern parts, varies from a 
light brown loam to a thin vegetable 
earth, with gravel and sand as a subsoil ; 
in the middle parts, from a rich heavy 
loam and unctious clay to a deep heavy 
black loam, on a trap-rock; and in the 
southern (the Willamette valley), the soil 
is generally good, varying from a black 



628 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF OREGON. 



vegetable loam to decomposed basalt, 
with stiff clay, and portions of loose 
gravel-soil. The hills are generally ba- 
salt, and stone, and slate ; between the 
Umpqua river and the southern boundary 
the rocks are primitive, consisting of 
slate, hornblende, and granite, which 
produce a gritty and poor soil ; there 
are, however, some places of rich prai- 
rie, covered with oaks. It is, for the 
most part, a well -timbered country. It 
is intersected with the spurs or offsets 
from the Cascade mountains, which ren- 
der its surface much broken ; these are 
covered with a dense forest. The tim- 
ber consists of pines, firs, spruce, oaks 
(red and white), ash, arbutus, arbor vi- 
tae, cedar, poplar, maple, willow, cher- 
ry, and tew, with a close undergrowth 
of hazel, rubus, roses, &c. The richest 
and best soil is found on the second or 
middle prairie, and is best adapted for 
agriculture ; the high and low being ex- 
cellent for pastui-e-land. The climate and 
soil are admirably adapted for all kinds 
of grain — wheat, rye, oats, barley, peas, 
&c. Indian corn does not thi'ive in any 
part of this territory where it has been 
tried. Many fruits appear to succeed 
well, particularly the apple and pear. 
Vegetables grow exceedingly well, and 
yield most abundantly. 

The Blue mountains are irregular in 
their course, and occasionally interrupt- 
ed, but generally running in a northerly 
direction ; they commence in the Kla- 
met range, near the southern boundary 
of the territory; they are broken through 
by the Saptin or Snake river, at the 
junction of the Kooskooske river, and 
branch off in hills of moderate elevation, 
until they again appear on the north side 
of the Columbia river, above the Okana- 
gan river, passing in a north direction, 
until they unite with the Rocky mount- 
ains, in latitude fifty-three degrees north. 
The climate of the middle section is va- 
riable ; during the summer the atmo- 
sphere is much drier and warmer, and 
the winter much colder, than in the 
western section. Its extremes of heat 
and cold are more frequent and greater, 
the mercury, at times, falling as low as 
minus eighteen degrees of Fahrenheit, 
in winter, and rising to one hundred and 



eighty degrees in the shade of summer : 
the daily difference of temperature is 
about forty degrees of Fahrenheit. It 
has, however, been found extremely sa- 
lubrious, possessing a pure and healthy 
air. No dews fall in this section. The 
soil is, for the most part, a light sandy 
loam ; in the valleys a rich alluvial ; and 
the hills are generally barren. The sur- 
face is about one thousand feet above 
the level of the western section, and is 
generally a rolling prairie country. The 
part lying to the north of the parallel of 
forty-eight degrees is very much broken 
with mountain-chains and rivers, conse- 
quently barren and very rugged. From 
the great and frequent changes in its 
temperatui'e, it is totally unfit for agri- 
culture, but is well supplied with game 
of all kinds that are found in the coun- 
try. In the centre of this section, and 
near and around the junction of the 
Saptin or Snake and Columbia rivers, is 
an extensive rolling country, which is 
well adapted for grazing. South of the 
Columbia, and extending to the south- 
ern boundary of the territory, it is des- 
titute of timber or wood, unless the 
wormwood (artemisia) may be so called, 
although there are portions of it that 
might be advantageously farmed. 

The Rocky mountains form the boun- 
dary of the eastern section, and of the 
territory. They commence on the Arc- 
tic coast, and continue an almost unbro- 
ken chain until they merge in the Andes 
of South America. That part forming 
the eastern boundary of Oregon, ex- 
tending north from the Great South 
pass, at latitude forty-two degrees north, 
to about the fifty-second degree, at the 
Committee's Punch-bowl pass, forms an 
almost impenetrable barrier, the few 
passes between being very difficult and 
dangerous. The climate of the eastern 
section is extremely variable. In each 
day there are all the changes incident to 
spring, summer, autumn, and winter. 
There are places where small farms 
might be located, but they are few in 
number. The soil is rocky and uneven, 
and presents an almost unbroken bar- 
ren waste. Stupendous mountain-spurs 
traverse it in all directions, affording lit- 
tle level ground. Snow lies on the 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF OREGON. 



629 



mountains nearly, if not quite, through- 
out the year. It is exceedingly dry and 
arid, rains seldom> falling, and but little 
snow. This country is paitially tim- 
bered, and the soil much impregnated 
with salts. 

The Columbia is the great river 
of the territory. Its northern branch 
takes its rise in the Rocky mountains, 
in latitude fifty degrees north, longitude 
one hundx'ed and sixteen west ; thence 
il pursues a northern route, to near 
M'Gillivary's pass, in the Rocky mount- 
ains. At the boat encampment, the 
river is thi'ee thousand six hundred feet 
above the level of the sea (here it re- 
ceives two small tributai'ies — the Canr)e 
river, and that from the Committee's 
Punch-bowl), thence it turns south, hav- 
ing some obstructions to its safe naviga- 
tion, and receiving many tributaries in 
its course to Colville, among which are 
the Kootanie, or Flat Bow, and the Flat 
Head, or Clarke river, from the east, 
and that of Colville from the west. This 
great river is bounded thus far on its 
course, by a range of high mountains, 
well wooded, and in places expands into 
a line of lakes before it reaches Colville, 
where it is two thousand forty-nine feet 
above the level of the sea, having a fall 
of five hundred and fifty feet in two hun- 
dred and twenty miles. To the south 
of this it trends to the westward, receiv- 
ing the Spokan river from the east, which 
is not navigable, and takes its rise in the 
lake of CcBur d'Alene. Thence it pur- 
sues a westerly course for about sixty 
miles, receiving several smaller streams, 
and, at its bend to the south, it is joined 
by the Okanagan, a river that has its 
source in a line of lakes, affording canoe 
and boat navigation for quite a distance 
to the northward. The Columbia thence 
passes to the southward until it reaches 
Wallawalla, in the latitude of forty-five 
degrees, a distance of one hundred and 
sixty miles, receiving the Piscous, Y' Ak- 
ama, and Point de Boise, or Entyatecoom, 
from the west, which lake their rise in 
the Cascade range, and also its great 
southeastern branch, the Saptin or Lew- 
is, which has its source in the Rocky 
mountains, near our southern boundary, 
and brings a large quantity of water to 



increase the volume of the principal 
stream. 

The Lewis is not navigable, even for 
canoes, except in reaches. The rapids 
are extensive and of frequent occurrence. 
It generally passes between the Rocky 
mountain spurs and the Blue mountains. 
It receives the Kooskooske, Salmon, and 
several other rivers, from the east and 
west — the former from the Rocky 
mountains, the latter from the Blue 
mountains — and, were it navigable, 
would much facilitate the intercourse 
with this part of the country. Its length, 
to its junction with the Columbia, is 
five hundred and twenty miles. The 
Columbia, at Wallawalla, is one thou- 
sand two hundred and eighty-six feet 
above the level of the sea, and about thir- 
ty-five hundred feet wide ; it now takes 
its last turn to the westward, receiv- 
ing the Umatilla, Quisnel's, John Day's, 
andDe Chute rivers from the south, and 
Cathlatate's from the north, pursuing its 
rapid course of eighty miles, previous to 
passing through the range of Cascade 
mountains, in a series of falls and rapids 
that obstruct its flow, and form insur- 
mountable barriers to the passage of 
boats by water during the floods. These 
difficulties, however, are overcome by 
portages. Thence there is still-water 
navigation, for forty miles, when its 
course is again obstructed by rapids. 
Thence to the ocean, one hundred and 
twenty miles, it is navigable for vessels 
of twelve feet draught of water at the 
lowest state of the river, though ob- 
structed by many sand-bars. In this 
part it receives the Willamette from the 
south, and the Cowelitz from the north. 
The former is navigable for small ves- 
sels twenty miles, to the mouth of the 
Klackamus, three miles below its falls; 
the latter can not be called navigable, 
except for a small part of the year, du- 
ring the floods, and then only for canoes 
and barges. The width of the Colum- 
bia, within twenty miles of its mouth, is 
much increased, and it joins the ocean 
between Cape Disappointment and Point 
Adams, forming a sand-spit from each, 
by deposite, and causing a dangerous 
bar, which greatly impedes its naviga- 
tion and entrance. 



630 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF OREGON. 



Frazei^'s river takes its rise in the 
Rocky mountains, near the source of the 
Canoe river, taking a northwesterly 
course of eighty miles ; it then turns to 
the southward, receiving the waters of 
Stuart's river, which rises in a chain of 
lakes near the northern boundary of the 
territory ; it then pursues a southerly 
course, receiving the waters of the Chil- 
cotin, Pinkslitsa, and several smaller 
streams, from the west, and those of 
Thompson's river, and other streams, 
from the east (these take their rise in 
lakes, and are navigable in canoes, by 
making portages) ; and, under the par- 
allel of forty-nine degrees, it breaks 
through the Cascade range, in a succes- 
sion of falls and rapids, and, after a west- 
erly course of seventy miles, it empties 
into the gulf of Georgia, in the latitude 
of forty-nine degrees and seven minutes 
north. The latter portion is navigable 
for vessels that can pass its bar drawing 
twelve feet water ; its whole length be- 
ing three hundred and fifty miles. 

The Chikeelis is next in importance. 
It has three sources among the range of 
hills that intersect the country north of 
the Columbia river. After a very tor- 
tuous course, and receiving some small 
streams issuing from the lakes in the 
high ground near the head-waters of 
Hood's canal and Puget's sound, it dis- 
embogues in Grey's harbor; it is not 
navigable except for canoes ; its current 
is rapid, and the stream much obstructed. 

To the south of the Columbia there 
are many small streams, but three of 
of which deserve the name of rivers: 
the Umpqua, Too-too-tut-na or Rogue's 
river, and the Klamet, which latter emp- 
ties into the ocean south of the parallel 
of forty-two degrees. None of these 
form harbors capable of receiving a ves- 
sel of more than eight feet draught of 
water, and the bars for most part of 
the year, are impassable, from the surf 
that sets in on the coast. The charac- 
ter of the great rivers is peculiar — rapid, 
and sunken much below the level of the 
c iuiitry, with perpendicular banks ; in- 
deed, they are, as it were, in trenches, 
it being extremely difficult to get at the 
water in many places, owing to the 
steep basaltic walls ; and, during the 



rise, they are in many places confined 
by dalles, which back the water some 
distance, submerging islands and tracts 
of low prairie, giving the appearance of 
extensive lakes. 

History.— On the 7th of May, 1792, 
Captain Robert Gray, in the ship Co- 
lumbia, of Boston, discovered and en- 
tered the Columbia river; to which he 
gave the name of his vessel. He was 
the first person that established the fact 
of the existence of this great river, and 
this gave to the United States the right 
of discovery. In lS04-'5, Captains Lew- 
is and Clark, under the direction of the 
government of the United States, ex- 
plored the country from the mouth of 
the Missouri to the mouth of the Co- 
lumbia, and spent the winter of 1805 
—'6 at the mouth of the Columbia. This 
exploration of the river Columbia, the 
first ever made, constituted another 
ground of the claim of the United States 
to the country. In 1808, the Missouri 
fur company, at St. Louis, established a 
trading post beyond the Rocky mount- 
ains, on the head-waters of Lewis river, 
the first ever formed on any of the wa- 
ters of the Columbia. In 1810, the Pa- 
cific fur company, mider John Jacob 
Astor, of New York, was formed ; and 
in 1811 they founded Astoria, eight 
miles from the mouth of the Columbia, 
as their principal ti'ading post, and pro- 
ceeded to establish others in the inte- 
rior. A little later in the same year, 
the Noi'thwest company sent a detach- 
ment to form establishments on the Co- 
lumbia; but when they arrived at the 
mouth of the river they found the post 
occupied. In consequence of the expo- 
sure of Astoria by the war of 1812, the 
post was sold out to the Northwest com- 
pany. At the close of the war, Astoria 
was restored, by order of the British 
government, to its original founders, 
agreeably to the first article of the treaty 
of Ghent. Various attempts have been 
made since the vi'ar to renew the iur- 
trade in Oregon. In 1821, the Hud- 
son's bay and Northwest company, who 
had previously been rivals, were united, 
and since that time have greatly extend- 
ed their establishment in the region of 
Oregon. 



632 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF OREGON. 



That section of Oregon watered by 
the Columbia river and its tributaries, 
was for a long time a subject of dispute 
between the United States and Great 
Britain. But by a treaty concluded at 
Washington, on the fifteenth of June, 
1846, this long-pending question, which 
at one time seriously threatened to 
break the harmony existing between the 
two nations was put for ever at rest, 
by fixing the parallel of division be- 
tween the respective portions, as given 
at the commencement of this description. 
Thei'e have been for some years sev- 
eral missionary stations at different 
points in Oregon, and since the settle- 
ment of the question of boundary, new 
ones have been established. 

It will be almost impossible to give 
an idea of the extensive fisheries in the 
rivers, and on the coast. They all 
abound in salmon of the finest flavor, 
which run twice a year, beginning in 
May and October, and appear inexhaust- 
ible ; the whole population live upon 
them. The Columbia produces the lar- 
gest, and probably affords the greatest 
numbers. There are some few of the 
branches of the Columbia that the spring 
fish do not enter, but they are plentifully 
supplied in the fall. The great fishery 
of the Columbia is at the Dalles ; but 
all the rivers are well supplied. The 
last one on the northern branch of the 
Columbia is near Colville, at the Kettle 
falls ; but salmon are found above this 
in the river and its tributaries. In Fra- 
zer's river the salmon are said to be 
very numerous, but not large ; they are 
unable to get above the falls, some 
eighty miles from the sea. In the riv- 
ers and sounds are found carp-soles, 
salmon, salmon-trout, sturgeon, cod, 
flounders, ray, perch, herring, lampi'ey- 
eels, and a kind of smelt called " shrow," 
in great abundance; also large quanti- 
ties of shell-fish, viz., crabs, clams, oys- 
ters, mussels, &c., which are all used by 
the natives, and constitute the greater 
proportion of their food. Whales, in 
numbers, are found along the coast, and 
are frequently captured by the Indians 
in and at the mouth of the straits of Juan 
da Fuca. 

Abundance of game exists, such as 



elk, deer, antelope, bears, wolves, fox- 
es, muskrats, martens, beavers, a few 
grizzly bears, and siffleurs, which are 
eaten by the Canadians. In the middle 
section, or that designated as the rolling 
prairie, no game is found. In the east- 
ern section the buffalo is met with. The 
fur-bearing animals are decreasing in 
numbers yearly, particularly south of 
the parallel of forty-eight degrees ; in- 
deed, it is very doubtful whether they 
are sufficiently numerous to repay the 
expejise of hunting them. The Hud- 
son's bay company have almost the ex- 
clusive monopoly of this business. They 
have decreased owing to being hunted 
without regard to season. This is not, 
however, the case to the north; there 
the company have been left to exercise 
their own rule, and prevent the indis- 
criminate slaughter of either old or 
young, out of the proper season. In the 
spring and fall the rivers are literally 
covered with geese, ducks and other 
water-fowl. 

In 1848, a bill passed both houses of 
Congress, and was approved by the pres- 
ident on the 14th of August, by which 
Oregon was erected into a territorial 
government, and soon after the necessa- 
ry officers were sent out, and the gov- 
ernment organized. 

Oregon City, the territorial capital, is 
situ-dted about thirty miles up the Wil- 
lamette river, and two miles above the 
Clackmas rapids, which prevent all nav- 
igation to the city. Few other places 
in ihe Union have such immense water 
privileges, and many large saw-mills are 
already in operation. The view we have 
placed on the opposite page, is from a 
drawing taken on the spot in 1847, since 
which time it has considerably increased. 
The population in 1850, was 702. 

Portland, twelve miles below the 
falls may be considered as the port of 
Oregon City. Its trade with the Pa- 
cific towns, and also with those of the 
Atlantic, especially with New York, is 
prosperous and increasing. Population 
about 1,000. 

Astoria, near the mouth of the Colum- 
bia, referred to on a previous page, has a 
good hnrbor, and many natural advan- 
tages for becoming eventually a great 



634 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF OREGON. 



commercial depot. At present, howev- 
er, there are but a few buildings in the 
place. Astoria is a port of entry. 

Fort Vancouver, on the north bank 
of the Columbia river, one hundred 
miles from its mouth, is the principal tra- 
ding post of the Hudson's Bay compa- 
ny, west of the mountains. Ships draw- 
ing fourteen feet water, can ascend 
twenty miles further up the river. The 
establishment consists of about hundred 
houses enclosed by picket-fences, and 
defended by armed bastions and a block- 
house. A catholic church is the only 
building of note. The inhabitants are 
chiefly South-Sea Islanders in the em- 
ploy of the company. The establish- 
ment is on an extensive scale, and the 
centre of vast interests — all the compa- 
ny's Indian trade being conducted here. 
Extensive agricultural operations for 
the support of the tradei's, are carried 
on. The farm contains about three 
thousand acres. The stock of cattle and 
sheep is very large, and is rapidly in- 
creasing in numbers and improving in 
breed from the importation of Eui'opean 
stock. The mixed breed of sheep yields 
from twelve to eighteen pounds of fleece. 
The mills and outposts of the f )rt ex- 
tend several miles above on the river. 

The upper colony from the United 
States is situated on the Willamette riv- 
er, ninety-four miles from its entiance 
into the Columbia. It consists of about 
one hundred families, who raise consid- 
e''able grain, and have about four thou- 
sand head of cattle, extensive fields of 
wheat, potatoes, peas, and vegetables, of 
all descriptions. They have hogs, poul- 
try, &c., in abundance. 

Fort Wallawalla is on the south 
side of the Columbia, ten miles below the 
entrance of Lewis river. On the Willa- 
mette river, fifty-five miles above its en- 
trance into the Columbia, is M'Key's 
settlement, and twelve miles above, is 
Jarvis' settlement, which contain about 
twenty families. 

Fort Colville is on the south side of 
Clark's river, below the Kettle falls, just 
before it enters the Columbia. Here is 
a considerable farming establishment. 

Fort Okanagan is at the entrance into 
the Columbia of the river of that name, 



one hundred miles below Clark's river. 
The Hudson's Bay company have seve- 
ral other trading posts in this territory. 

Fort Nesqually, on Puget's sound, 
is occupied by the " Puget's Sound Ag- 
ricultural Company." Their farms are 
very extensive, and are kept in a high 
state of cultivation. They supply pro- 
visions to the Hudson's Bay company's 
servants west of the mountains, and ex- 
port largely to the Sandwich Islands and 
the Russian post of Sitka. 

There are a few other small but thri- 
ving villages and settlements in Ores^on. 

Since the discovery of gold in Califor- 
nia, a great demand has arisen for the 
agricultural pi oducts of Oregon, and, as 
a consequence, a commercial connexion 
has been the result. The export of lum- 
ber has been large. This incipient com- 
merce will not be transitory — tlie de- 
mand for building materials is constantly 
on the increase, and that for breadstuffs 
and provisions will last as long as mi- 
ning is the chief employment in Califor- 
nia. Some commercial intercourse is 
maintained also with the Sandwich 
Islands and the Russian settlements on 
the north. But with all these fortu- 
itous circumstances that have attended 
the first settlement of the territory, it 
must still remain much as it is — a mere 
agricultural and pastoral country, unless 
some means of easy and rapid commu- 
nication can be maintained with the 
western states and the Atlantic coast. 
A railroad is the only solution of this 
difficulty. The one proposed by Mr. 
Whitney seems to have some claims to 
consideration, and by its means the 
shores of Lake Michigan would be 
brought into a juxtaposition with the 
mouth of the Columbia river. The de- 
tails for the construction of such an 
avenue, chiefly through a countiy in- 
fested with hostile Indians, and through 
mountain passes almost inaccessible, 
have been laid before Congress, and are 
favorably spoken of; but to mature 
plans, and obtain capital for such a work, 
seems to offer almost insuperable diffi- 
culties even to its commencement. Still 
we trust the day is not far distant that 
will witness the triumphant completion 
of this gigantic enterprise. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 



635 



TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 



The early liistovy of Minnesota is 
involved in much obscurity, though Fa- 
ther Hennepin in 1G80, and Baron La 
Hontan in 1GS9, both Frenchmen, visited 
that region, but subsequently gave nar- 
ratives to the world, so strangely inter- 
mixed with the truth and seeming fable, 
that little reliance was placed on their 
statements. It would seem on investi- 
gation, that for several hundred years 
the possession of the land was fiercely 
coniested by different Indian nations ; 
mainly between the great tribes of Dako- 
tahs or Sioux and the Algonqnins or 
Chippewas. The latter, from their east- 
ern location on Lake Superior, about 
tlie falls of St, Mary, and eai'lier inter- 
course with the French fur-traders, be- 
came first possessed of firearms, which 
gave them a superioi-ity that enabled 
them to drive the Dak(jtahs from the 
rich midland hunting-grounds, rice and 
fish lakes, in the country about the head 
waters of the Mississippi. 

The dispossessed bands of the Dako- 
tahs moved westward, sweeping in their 
progress, the Sheans, the lowas, and 
other tribes from their lands; until, in 
the course of time, the fugitive Dakotahs 
of the Upper INIississippi, became the 
fiercest lords of the vast buffalo-plains 
of the Upper Missouri. By a treaty 
negotiated under the pi'otection of the 
United States, at Fort Crawford, near 
Prairie du Chien, in 1825, between all 
the different tribes of the northwest, 
their respective boundaries were de- 
fined ; and thenceforward comparative 
peace ensued between them. 

The name Minnesota is derived from 
the Indian name of the St. Peter's river, 
the principal local stream of the country. 
The Indians, living on its banks, called 
it thus on account of the diffeient appear- 
ance of the waters from those of the 
Mississippi. At the junction of the two 
streams, the waters of the last-named 
river may be observed generally tinged 
of a chocolate color, derived from the 
extensive tamarac and pine swamps 
toward the north, in which it partly has 



its head springs ; while the waters of the 
Minnesota are entirely different in ap- 
pearance, being light-colored and clear. 
The name is compounded of two words, 
mlnne, "water," and sofah, "sky-col- 
ored." This poetical designation, " The 
territory of the sky-colored water," re- 
ceives additional ornament in the Dako- 
tah name bestowed on the junction of 
the river witli the Mississippi, tiiat of 
Mendota, or " Mingling of the Waters." 
This is also the appellation of the Indian 
trading-town at the mouth. 

The United States had little authority 
over this region till 1812. In 1816, a 
law of Congress excluded foreigners 
from the Indian trade; and for the en- 
couragement of our citizens the military 
post at Fort Snelling was established in 
1819. Among the explorers of this coun- 
try, the names of Pike, Carver, Long, Bel- 
trami, Cass, Schoolcraft, Nicollet, Owen, 
&c., will ever be intimately connected 
with its history. The honor of verifying 
the sources of the Mississippi belongs to 
Schoolcraft. 

Previous to the erection of Iowa into 
a state, all that portion of Minnesota west 
of the Mississippi was included in Iowa 
territory, and that part immediately on 
the river was embraced in the county of 
Clayton. The organization of Iowa into 
a state threw all north of 43° 30' without 
the bounds of any organized government. 
Little, if any, inconvenience resulted to 
the white inhabitants in the excluded por- 
tion, as it was entirely Indian country, 
and under the control of the United States 
laws " regulating trade and intercourse 
with the Indians." But in 1848, Wis- 
consin was admitted into the Union ; and 
her boundary on the north and northwest 
being the St. Croix, cut off the principal 
portion of two organized counties of the 
territory of Wisconsin — viz., St. Croix 
and La Pointe — comprising a consider- 
able population, one county-seat, and 
important interests engaged in lumber- 
ing and tradinof. The people of this por- 
tion of the " Territory of Wisconsin," 
thus suddeidy deprived of a judiciary, 



636 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 



and the means of a proper administra- 
tion of the laws, as the only remedy for 
the threatened evils of such a state of 
things, met in convention, and resolved 
that, inasmuch as the law establisliing 
Wisconsin territory was not specially re- 
pealed by the erection of Wisconsin state, 
that their country was, de facto, said ter- 
ritory; and the acting governor of Wis- 
consin, Hon. John Catlin, secretary of 
the said territory, coinciding in this view, 
issued his proclamation ft)r the election 
of a delegate to Congress. The people 
also memorialized Congress in regard 
to their' condition, and instructed their 
delegate to ask tlie erection of a new ter- 
ritory, to be called ^^ Mnmesota." This 
was granied, by act of Congi'es-^, on the 
3d of March, 1849, Shortly after, Alex- 
ander Ram.-ay was appointed governor. 
St. Paul's was made the capital, where 
the government was soon after organ- 
ized. 

The territory of Minnesota, thus cre- 
ated is situated between 43° 30' and 49'^ 
north latitude, and 89° 30' and 102*=' 10' 
west LjngitLide ; and is bounded north 
by Brilijih America, east by Lake Supe- 
rioi' and the state of Wisconsin, south by 
the state of Iowa, and west by Missouri 
teriioiy. Of the immense territory in- 
cluded within these limits, 22,336 square 
miles belonged to the late territory of 
Wisconsin, and the remainder to the late 
territory of Iowa. 

Throughout the whole of this teiritoiy 
scarcely an elevation that could be dig- 
nified with the name of mountain occurs. 
Tlie surface is in geneial level or undu- 
lating, but varies considerably in eleva- 
tion, and in the ascents- and descents of 
its plateaux. In some parts, especially 
in the neighborhood of the Mississippi 
and St. Peter's, the ground is much bro- 
ken, and their margins lined with high 
bluffs of various foimations ; while in oth- 
ers the rivers flow through deep chan- 
mls, seemingly worn into the e--fvth by 
the f(jrce of their waters. 

Every portion of Minnesota may be 
reached by inland navigation. The trav- 
eller will meet constantly with springs 
and small lakes, the sources of mighty 
rivers, whose waters aiediscliarged thou- 
sands of miles to the north into Hudson's 



bay, as many to the east into the gulf of 
St. Lawrence, or to the south into the 
gulf of Mexico. Springs are often seen 
within a i'ew feet of each other, the sour- 
ces of rivers whose outlets in the ocean 
are some six thousand miles apart! In 
almost every direction, canoe naviga- 
tion, with short portages, is practicable 
by means of the numerous rivers, whose 
sources are nearly interlocked or con- 
nected by chains of lakes. The Missis- 
sippi has its source here, some three 
thousand miles from its mouth. Nine 
hundred miles of the length of this ma- 
jestic river are embraced in this territo- 
ry, and its numerous tributaries course 
through its fertile plains. The northeast 
portion is washed by the crystal waters 
of Lake Superioi-, which is of itself an 
inland sea for the prosecution of trade 
and commerce, and opens an avenue to 
the Atlantic. The INIissouri, after hav- 
ing flowed nearly one thousand miles 
from the base of the Rocky mountains, 
sweeps along its whole western bounda- 
ry, insuring navigation almost to Oregon. 
Its large tiibutaries, James and Big Si- 
oux rivers, water valleys of great beauty 
and fertility. Extensive prairies, bloom- 
ing with flowers, and covered with luxu- 
riant grasses, aff^ord sustenance to im- 
mense herds of buff"alo, saying nothing 
of elk, deer, antelopes, and other small 
game. Red river, which discharges it- 
self into Lake Winnipeg, has its sources 
near those of the Mississippi. Beautiful 
lakes of transparent water, well stocked 
with fish, and varying in size from ponds 
to inland seas, are profusely scattered 
over the territory. Forests of pine and 
other evergreens, orchards of sugar-ma- 
ple, groves of haid and soft woods of va- 
rious species, wild rice and cranberries, 
and various species of wild fruit, copious 
springs fif pure water, a fertile soil, and 
water-power, easily improved and abun- 
dantly distributed, lender this region pe- 
culiarly adapted to the wants of man. 
Add to these a salubrious climate, and 
Minnesota appears to enjoy eminent ca- 
pacities for becoming a thriving and pop- 
ulous state. Its mineral resources are 
as yet but imperfectly known, but indi- 
cations and discoveries havb been made 
that certify its wealth in copper and lead. 



DESCRIPTION OF THB TERRITORY OP MINNESOTA. 



637 



Buildiii^r-stone of every description, lime- 
Stone, &c., are found everywhere under- 
lying tlie soil, while many valuable and 
precious stones are found on the shores 
of the lakes. For a country so over- 
spread with lakes, and traversed by such 
a number of rivers, it is astonisliiiigly 
free from marsh and mornss. The land 
has a great elevation above the gulf of 
Mexico and the waters of the north and 
east, and, as a consequence, is easily and 
perfectly drained ; and, moreover, the 
margins of the lakes and rivers them- 
selves are generally surrounded by hills 
and bluffs, which protect their neighbor- 
hoods from inundation. The whole coun- 
try is thus eligible for agriculture. 

As yet, the selilements made in the 
territory are chiefly confined to the pe- 
ninsula between the Mississippi and St. 
Croix on the south, and on the Red river 
on tlie north. Otherwise the countiy is 
inhabited only by the aboriginal hunters, 
the Chippewa and Sioux Indians. Their 
numbers are not ascertained, but may 
approximate to about twelve thousand. 
With some of the tribes treaties have 
been made for the purchase of their lands 
and for their removal, which, when fully 
effecied, will open to the white settler 
immense tracts of rich and fertile soils, 
productive of every species of grain and 
fruits usually grown in northern climates. 
The hunting-grounds of the Indians are 
now chiefly confined to the vast prairies 
west of the Mississippi. The white in- 
habitants are from almost every portion 
of the world : the Canadian, the sons of 
New England and the middle slates, with 
English, French, and Germans, are all 
intermingled ; and not a few of the citi- 
zens consist of half-breeds, who chiefly 
reside on the Red river, and have settle- 
ments for some distance on both sides of 
our northern boundary. These are de- 
scendants of the original settleis at Lord 
Selkirk colony, and Indian women of the 
Chippewa family. 

In the new settlements, the industry 
of the whites is almost entirely agricul- 
tural. They have mills on a number of 
the streams, and steamboats ply regu- 
larly on their waters. They are build- 
ing roads, and, fi"om the energy they ex- 
hibit in overcoming natural obstacles, the 



real prosperity of the territory seems to 
be insured. A large business has been 
already done by ihe steamboats that sail 
regularly between Galena and St. Paul's 
and Stillwater. The products of the 
chase and the fruits of the field are ex- 
ported in considerable quantities. 

With regard to immigration, the pros- 
pects are favorable. Farmers, laborers, 
and professional men, are daily ascend- 
ing the rivers in search of a new home. 
The day, indeed, is not distant, when the 
forests will be laid low, and the flowery 
prairies be converted into fields and gar- 
dens, producing every necessary to the 
use and enjoyment of man. Earth, air, 
and water, abound in the prerequisites 
of man's happiness and enjoyment, and 
are only awaiting his advent to yield up 
their now-unused abundance. 

So recent has been the organization 
of the government of the terrritory, that 
it is impossible to exhibit by statistics 
the resources of this new and almost un- 
touched country. The first legislature, 
which adjourned after a session of sixty 
days, was chiefly employed in organizing 
the government, and dividing the terri- 
tory into suitable civil districts, and ap- 
pointing oflficers to enforce the laws. 
Among other important acts of the ter- 
ritorial legislature, are those establishing 
the judiciaiy, a school system, and those 
relative to tlie improvement of roads. All 
these will have a paramount influence 
over the future destiny of the country. 
Perhaps one of the most humane and pol- 
itic acts of the legislature is the admis- 
sion to citizenship of "all persons of a 
mixture of white and Indian blood, who 
shall have adopted the habits and cus- 
toms of civilized men ;" and not less pol- 
itic is that law which requires the estab- 
lishment of schools throughout the ter- 
ritory. The act of the general govern- 
ment organizing the territory, appropri- 
ates two sections of land in every town- 
ship for the support of common schools. 
No other state in the Union has received 
more than one section in each township 
for such purpose. According to the cen- 
sus of lyoO, the population of Minnesota 
was rising (3,000. 

The territory was divided by the leiris- 
lature into nine counties, in lieu of the 



£35 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 



counties of St. Ci'oix and La Pointe, 
which constituted the remaining: portions 
of ihe territories of Iowa and Wisconsin 
of which Minnesota was formed. The 
piincipal settlements are St. Paul's, Still- 
water, Mendota, Fort Snelling, Pembi- 
na, &c. 

St. Paul's, the capital, is situated on 
the left bank of the Mississippi, fifteen 
miles by water, and eight miles by land, 
below the falls of St. Anthony. The 
town is situated on a plateau termina- 
ting on the river in a precipitous bluff 
of eighty feet elevation above the water. 
The bluff recedes from the river at the 
u[)per and lower ends of the town, form- 
ing two landings, from both of which the 
a.'^ent is gradual. The first store or tra- 
ding-house was built in 1842. In June, 

1849, the town contained one hundred 
and forty-two houses, all of which, with 
the exception of perhaps a dozen, had 
been built within the year previous : this 
number included the government-house, 
three hotels, four warehouses, ten stores, 
several groceries, two printing-offices — 
from which two newspapers are issued 
weekly — a schoolhduse, several mechan- 
ics' shops, &c. There was not a brick 
or stone house in the town. Since the 
period above mentioned, however, sev- 
eral churches and many durable houses, 
built of stone and brick, from materials 
in the vicinity, have been erected. The 
population, according to the census of 

1850, was 1,135. St. Paul's is well lo- 
cated for commerce; and from its being 
at the head of navigation below the falls 
of St. Anthony, must necessarily become 
not only the political but the commercial 
capital of the territory. In the neigh- 
borhood of St. Paul's there is an exten- 
sive settlement of Canadians, chiefly per- 
sons formerly employed by the Hudson 
Bay Company, called Little Canada. lis 
population is about 800. 

Stillwater is situated on the west 
side of Lake St. Croix, near its head, on 
ground having a gentle ascent from the 
shore to a high bluff in the rear, which 
extends in the fijrm of a crescent, and 
nearly encloses the town. The first set- 
tlement was made in 1843. It contains 
a courthouse, several hotels and stores, 
and many neat dwellings. Steamboats 



seldom ascend higher than this place. 
The environs consist of a beautiful prairie 
country, and are being rapidly brought 
under cultivation. Population in June, 
1850. 636. 

Marine Mills is a flourishing settle- 
ment on the St. Croix river, a few miles 
above its entrance into the lake. The 
precinct contains about 300 inhabitants. 
Its water-power, and the fine country 
which surrounds it, must speedily enforce 
its increase and pTosperity. 

Several villages on the Wisconsin side 
of the St. Croix river have been estab- 
lished, and are rapidly increasing in im- 
portance. Indeed, the resources of the 
vicinity on both sides are such as to in- 
sure to the villages considerable com- 
merce. 

Fort Snelling is situated on the high, 
rocky promontory, more than a hundred 
feet above the water, at the confluence 
of St. Peter's river with the Mississippi. 
The military works were commenced 
in 1819. The fort is in the form of a 
hexagon, and surrounded by a stone wall. 
From the river its appearance is imposing 
and seemingly impregnable. It is, how- 
ever, within the reach of cannon from 
higher ground ; but the object for which 
the site was selected — the protection of 
the fi'ontier from savage incursion — is 
well attained by its situation. The gar- 
rison usually consists of three companies 
of dragoons. The view fiom these for- 
tifications is extensive. The military res- 
ervation of the establishment embraces 
an area of ten miles square, of which the 
fort is near the centre. The settlement 
in the neighborhood contains only about 
forty inhabitants. In the fort there weie 
267 males and 50 females in June, 1849. 

Mendota, or St. Peter's, on the west 
bank of the Mississippi, south of the con- 
fluence of St. Peter's river, has been oc- 
cupied for several years by the Ameri- 
can Fur Company, as a depot for their 
trading establishments with the Indians 
of the northwest. Two stores and two 
or three houses constitute the village. 
It is, however, a fine town site ; and be- 
ing situated at the junction of two great 
rivers, and near the head of steam navi- 
gation, its importance in a commoicial 
point ofviewhasnot been overlooked. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF MINNESOTA. 



639 



Wliites are not allowed to reside here 
without special permission from the Uni- 
ted States government, the viHap^e being 
ill tlie military reservation. Ii will ulti- 
mately command the trade of the St Pe- 
ler's river. Population in 1S50, riOO. 

Some other small vilhiges exist in this 
neighborhood, but of their importance or 

J)iesent state little is known. K.\posia, 
r"om its situation near the point of land 
opposite St. Paul's, though yet little more 
than an Indian town, may ultimately be- 
come of consequence. Sauk Rapids, 
opposite the mouth of Osakis river, is 
on the eastern bank of the Mississippi ; 
and higher up, on both sides of Nokay 
river, is Fort Gaines, the most norther- 
ly militaiy establishment in the country. 
The supplying of these remote stations 
with provisions, &c., creates considerable 
traffic and travelling by both land and 
water. The return traffic consists of furs 
and peltry, wish other Indian contribu- 
tions. 

The city of St. Anthony, which is 
laid out on the east side of the Missis- 
si[)pi, directly opposite the cataract, is a 
beautiful town siie. A handsome, ele- 
vated prairie, with a gentle inclination 
toward the river bank, and of sufficient 
width for parallel streets, extends up and 
down the river. In the rear of this, an- 
other branch of table land swells up, 
forming a beautiful and elevated plat- 
form. The inhabitants are chiefly from 
the state of Maine, and form an enter- 
prising population. 

The town of Pembina, situated on Red 
river, a short distance this side of the 
British line, contained, according to the 
census of 1850, 636 inhabitants: of these, 
294 were males and 312 females. The 
men follow tlie chase, and engage in the 
pursuits of grazing and agriculture ; and 
the women, besides attending to the usu- 
al domestic avocations, manufacture most 
of the woollen and linen fabrics necessa- 
ry to clothe their families. Hardy and 
hard-working, prudent as the New Eng- 
land farmer, religious, brave, and intelli- 
gent, these half-breeds form no mean 
class in the general community. They 
trade with the southern settlers of the 
territory, exchanging furs and [lemmican 
for the superfluities of the south. They 



have churches and schools, and many of 
the better class are educated at a colle- 
giate establishment which has long been 
maintained among them. As a conse- 
quence, however, of their ostracized sit- 
uation, they still retain many of the pe- 
culiarities of their original nations, modi- 
fied indeed by the circumstances that 
surround them, and their connexion with 
savage life. 

Minnesota embraces within its borders 
all the natural advantages necessary to 
a great state. Its water-power is inex- 
haustible. Mines of copper, lead, and 
iron, are abundant. It is doubtless des- 
tined to be one of the most pf)werful 
members of the confederacy. Its popu- 
lation is rapidly increasing, and in two 
or three years they will be knocking at 
the door of the Union for admission as 
a sovereign state. 

The remaining portion of the United 
States territory east of the Rocky mount- 
ains is known as the Western territory, 
and is a part of the Louisiana purchase 
of 1803. It extends from the Nebraska 
or Platte river northward to the 49th 
parallel, and from White Earth and Mis- 
souri rivers westward to the Rocky 
mountains. The territory has an area 
of 579,584 square miles. 

The greater part of this immense ter- 
ritory is watered by the Missouri and its 
numerous tributaries. The Yellowstone, 
the largest of these, extends its branches 
to the very base of the Rocky mountains, 
and to near the sources of the Nebraska. 
A mountain-ridge, wliich branches from 
the great Rocky mountains, in about 42° 
north latitude, traverses the country in a 
northeast direction toward Lake Winni- 
peg. In the east portion of the territory 
the country is partly covered with for- 
ests, but beyond this commences a vast 
ocean of prairie, almost level, and clothed 
in grass and flowers. As yet the whole 
territory is inhabited by Indians, but the 
time is not far distant when the pioneer 
will penetrate its wilds, and bring under 
cultivation the soil that fn^m its creation 
has not been turned by the labor of man. 
The wild herds will be replaced by the 
ox, the horse, and the sheep ; and golden 
crops will succeed the flowers and grasses 
that now bloom and wither without use. 



640 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



TERRITORY OF NF^JIV MEXICO. 



The history of New Mexico lies very 
much in the dark. The Spaniards, it 
seems, received the first information con- 
cerning it in 1581, from a party of ad- 
venturers under Captain Francisco de 
Levya Bonillo, who, upon finding the 
aboriginal inhabitants and the mineral 
wealth of the country to be similar to 
those of Mexico, called it Neiv Mexico. 
In 1594, the then viceroy of Mexico, 
Count de Monterey, sent the gallant Ju- 
an de Oiiate, of Zacatecas, to New Mex- 
ico, to take formal possession of the coun- 
try in the name of Spain, and to estab- 
lish colonies, missions, presidios (forts), 
&c. They found a great many Indian 
tribes and settlements, which they suc- 
ceeded in Christianizing after the usual 
Stpanish manner, with sword in hand, and 
made them their slaves. The villnges 
of the Christianized Indians were called 
pueblos, in opposition to the wild and 
roving tribes that refused such favors. 
Many towns, of which ruins only exist 
at present, were then established ; many 
mines were worked ; and the occupa- 
tion of the country seemed to be secui'ed, 
when, quite unexpectedly, in 1680, a 
general insurrection of all the Indian 
tribes broke out against the Spanish 
yoke. The Indians massacred every 
white male ; and the then governor of 
New Mexico, Don Antonio de Otermin, 
after a hard fight, was compelled to re- 
treat with his men from Santa Fe, and 
march as far south as Paso del Norte, 
where they met with some friendly In- 
dians, and laid the foundation of the pres- 
ent town of that name. The insurrection 
lasted ten years, when Spain recovered 
possession of the whole province of New 
Mexico. Several other revolts occurred 
subsequently, but none so disastrous as 
the first. However, the deep rancor of 
the Indian race against the white has 
continued to the present time, and in all 
the frequent and bloody revolutions of 
later years in New Mexico, the pueblos 
have generally acted a conspicuous and 
cruel part. 

This country followed the fate of Mex- 



ico after the revolution that overthrew 
the Spanish power, and since that period 
has been silently degenerating. The his- 
tory of New Mexico, previous to the in- 
vasion by the Americans, has little to ar- 
rest attention. It is a continuous record 
of barbarism and tyranny. On the 8th 
of September, 1846, Santa Fe was cap- 
tured by the Americans under General 
Kearney, and soon after several of the 
river towns were visited on his route to 
California. A civil government was now 
established. On the 19th of January, 
1847, an insurrection broke out against 
the Americans, and in several pueblos 
many Americans were murdered, among 
whom were Governor Bent and Sheriff 
Lee. Taos, Arroya-Hondo, and Rio Col- 
orado, were the chief scenes of strife. 
The battles of La Canada and El Em- 
budo also occurred in this month, and in 
February the battle of Taos — in all of 
which the Mexicans were completely 
vanquished. Some few skirmishes oc- 
curred after these, but none of impor- 
tance. From this period the United 
States authorities exercised exclusive ju- 
risdiction and power. On the 2d of Feb- 
ruary, 1848, a treaty of pe?ce and ces- 
sion was signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo, 
by which New Mexico was assigned to 
the Union. It has since been erected 
into a separate territory, by act of Con- 
gress, which gave ten millions of dollars 
to Texas as an equivalent for the claim 
she preferred to that portion of the ter- 
ritory of New Mexico which lies east of 
the Rio Grande. The following are the 
boundaries of New Mexico, as estab- 
lished by Congress : " Beginning at a 
point in the Colorado river whei'e the 
Ijoundary line with the republic of Mex- 
ico crosses the same ; thence eastwardly 
with the said boundary line to the Rio 
Grande ; thence following the main chan- 
nel of the said river to the parallel of the 
thirty-second degree of north latitude; 
thence east with said degree to its inter- 
section with the one hundred and third 
degree of longitude west of Greenwich ; 
thence north with said degree of longi- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



641 



tude to the parallel of thivty-eiglit de- 
grees of north latitude ; thence west with 
the said parallel to the summit of the 
Sierra Madre ; thence south with the 
crest of said mountains to the thirty-sev- 
enth parallel of north latitude ; thence 
west with said parallel to its intersection 
with the boundary line of the state of 
California; thence with said boundary 
line to the place of beginning." 

New Mexico is a very mountainous 
country, with an extensive valley in the 
middle, running from north to south, and 
formed by the Rio del Norte. The valley 
is generally about twenty miles wide, and 
bordered on the east and west by mount- 
ain-chains — continuations of the Rocky 
mountains — which have here received 
different names, as Sierra hlanca, de los 
Organos, oscura, on the eastern side, and 
Sierra de los Grullas, de Acha, de los 
Mimbres, toward the west. The height 
of these mountains, south of Santa Fe, 
may upon an average be between six 
and eight thousand feet ; while near that 
town, and in the more northern regions, 
some snow-covered peaks are seen that 
may rise from ten to twelve thousand 
feet above the sea. The mountains are 
principally composed of igneous rocks, 
as granite, senile, diorit, basalt, &c. On 
the higher mountains excellent pine tim- 
ber grows ; on the lower, cedars, and 
sometimes oak ; in the valley of the Rio 
Grande, mezquite. 

The main artery of New Mexico is the 
Rio del Norte, the longest and largest 
river in Mexico. Its head-waters were 
explored in 1807 by Captain Pike, be- 
tween the thirty-seventh and thirty-eighth 
degrees of north latitude ; but its highest 
sources are supposed to be about two de- 
grees farther north in the Rocky mount- 
ains near the head-waters of the Arkan- 
sas and the Rio Grande (or the Colorado 
of the west). Following a generally south- 
ern direction, it runs through New Mex- 
ico, where its principal affluent is the Rio 
Chamas from the west, and thence winds 
its way in a southeastern course through 
the states of Chihuahua, Coahuila, and 
Tamaulipas, to the gulf of Mexico, in 
25° 56' north latitude. Its tributaries in 
the latter states are the Pecos, from the 
north, and the Chonchos, Salado, Alamo, 



and San Juan, from the south. The en- 
tire course of the Rio del Norte, in a 
straight line, would be nearly twelve hun- 
dred miles ; but by the meandering of its 
lower half, it runs at least two thousand 
miles from the region of eternal snow to 
the almost tropical climate of the gulf. 
The elevation of the river above the sea 
near Albuquerque, in New Mexico, is 
about 4,800 feet ; at El Paso del Norte, 
about 3,800 ; and at Reynosa, between 
three and four hundred miles from its 
mouth, about 170 feet. The fall of the 
water between Albuquerque and El Paso 
appears to be from two to three feet in 
a mile, and below Reynosa one foot in 
two miles. The fall of the river is sel- 
dom used as a motive power, except for 
running some flour-mills, which are of- 
tener worked by mules than by water. 
The principal advantage which is at pres- 
ent derived from this river by the inhab- 
itants is for agricultural purposes, by 
their well-managed system of irrigation. 
As to its navigation in New Mexico, it is 
vei'y much doubted if even canoes could 
be used, except perhaps during May or 
June, when the river is in its highest 
state, from the melting of the snow in 
the mountains. The river is entirely too 
shallow, and interrupted by too many 
sand-bars, to promise anything fir navi- 
gation. On the southern portion of the 
river, the recent exploration by Captain 
Sterling, of the United States steamer 
" Major Brown," has proved that steam- 
boats may ascend from the gulf as far 
as Laredo, a distance of seven hundred 
miles. Although this steamer did not 
draw over two feet of water, yet the ex- 
plorers of that region express their opin- 
ion that, by spending about one hundred 
thousand dollars in a proper improve- 
ment of the river above Mier, boats draw- 
ing four feet could readily ply between 
the mouth of the Rio Grande and Lare- 
do. Whenever a closer connexion be- 
tween this head-point of navigation and 
New INIexico shall be considered, noth- 
ing will answer but a railroad, crossing 
from the valley of the Rio Grande to the 
high table-land in the Mexican state of 
Chihuahua. 

The soil in the valley of the Rio del 
Norte, in New Mexico, is generally sandy 



41 



642 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



and looks poor, but by inigation it pro- 
duces abundant crops. Though agricul- 
ture is can-ied on in a very primitive way, 
with the hoe alone, or with a rude plough, 
made often entirely of wood, without a 
particle of iron, the inhabitants raise large 
quantities of wheat, Indian corn, beans, 
onions, and red peppers, together with 
some fruits. The most fertile part of 
the valley begins below Santa Fe, along 
the river, and is called Rio ahajo (or the 
[country] down the river). It is not un- 
common there to raise two crops within 
one year. 

The general dryness of the climate, 
and the aridity of the soil, in New Mex- 
ico, will always confine agriculture to 
the valleys of the water-courses, which 
are as rare as over all Mexico — such, at 
least, as contain running water through- 
out tlie year. But this important defect 
may be remedied by Artesian wells. On 
the high table-land from Santa Fe south, 
at a certain depth, layers of clay are 
found, that may form reservoirs of the 
sunken water-courses from the eastern 
and western mountain-chains, which, by 
the improved method of boring (or Ar- 
tesian wells), might be easily made to 
yield their water to the surface. If ex- 
periments to that effect should prove suc- 
cessful, the progress of agriculture in 
New Mexico will be more rapid, and 
even many dreaded jornadas might be 
changed from waterless deserts into cul- 
tivated plains. But at present, irrigation 
from a watei'-course is the only available 
means of carrying on agriculture. The 
irrigation is effected by damming the 
streams, and throwing the water into 
larger and smaller ditches (acequias) 
surrounding and intersecting the whole 
cultivated land. The inhabitants of the 
towns and villages, thei-efore, locate their 
lands together, and allot to each cultiva- 
tor a part of the water at certain periods. 
These common fields are generally with- 
out fences, which are less needed, as the 
grazing stock is guarded by herdsmen. 
The finest fields are generally seen on 
the haciendas, or large eslales, belonging 
to the rich property-holders in New Mex- 
ico. These haciendas are apparently a 
remnant of the old feudal system, and 
were granted, with the Indians and all 



other appurtenances, by the Spanish 
crown to favorite vassals. The inhabit- 
ants pay considerable attention to the 
raising of stock, and the great owners 
are possessed of large numbers of horses, 
mules, cattle, and sheep ; these, however, 
are generally of small size. The pastu- 
rage in the uncultivated parts of the ter- 
ritory is extensive, and thousands of stock 
graze thereon throughout the year. The 
Indians prove the greatest enemies to 
the farmers, and frequently carry off nu- 
merous herds of cattle, &c. 

The mines of New Mexico are very 
rich. Mining, however, has long been 
neglected by the native population, and 
many of the most valuable j9/ace/-s, which 
were formerly worked, have been wholly 
deserted. Gold, silver, iron, and copper, 
are plentiful in the mountains. Gold is 
found in the Sante Fe district as far south 
as Gran Quivira, and noi'th as far as the 
Rio Sangre de Cristo. The poorer clas- 
ses occupy some of their time in washing 
out gold-dust, which is largely deposited 
in the mountain-streams. The mines in 
the neighborhood of Santa Fe are the 
only ones worked at the present time. 
Silver-mines were worked by the Span- 
iards at Avo, Cerillos, and in the Nambe 
mountains, but operations have long since 
ceased. Copper is abundant throughout 
the country, and iron is equally so ; but 
these metals are entirely overlooked by 
the Mexicans as useless ! Coal has also 
been discovered in a number of places ; 
and gypsum, both common and selenite, 
is found in large quantities. The com- 
mon is used as lime for whitewashing, 
and the crystalline, or selenite, instead 
of window-glass. On the high table- 
lands, between the Rio del Norte and 
Pecos, are some extensive salinas, or 
salt-lakes, from which all the domestic 
salt in New Mexico is procured. Large 
caravans from the capital visit these in 
the dry season, and return with as much 
salt as they can conveniently cai'ry. The 
merchants exchange one bushel of salt 
for an equal quantity of wheat, or sell it 
for one or sometimes two dollars a bushel. 
The climate is generally temperate, 
constant, and healthy. Considerable at- 
mospheric differences, however, are ex- 
perienced in the mountain districts and 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITOHY OF NEW MEXICO. 



643 



in the low valley of the river. In the 
latter, the summer-heat sometimes rises 
to 100° Fahrenheit, but the nights are 
always cool and pleasant. The winters 
are comparatively of long duration, and 
frequently severe. The sky, however, 
is clear and dry, owing to the condensa- 
tion of the moisture on the frozen hills. 
The months from July to October inclu- 
sive constitute the rainy season, but the 
rains are neither so heavy nor so regular 
in their returns as on the more southern 
part of the continent. Disease is little 
known, except some inflammations and 
typhoid fevers in the winter season. In 
taking the census of the territory in 1850, 
many remai'kable instances of longevity 
were found among the native population, 
proving New Mexico to be one of the 
most healthful' regions of the Union. 

Population. — The whole population 
of New Mexico was, according to the 
census of 1793, 30,953; in 1833, it was 
calculated to amount to 52,360, and that 
number to consist of one twentieth Gap- 
uchines (Spaniards), one fifth Creoles, one 
fourth mestizoes of all grades, and one 
half of pueblo Indians. In 1842, the pop- 
ulation was estimated at 57,026 ; and ac- 
cording to the census of 1850, it was by 
counties as follows: Santa Fe, 7,713; 
Taos, 9,507; Rio Ariba, 10,668; San 
Miguel, 7,071; Santa Ana, 4,656; Ber- 
nalio, 7,752 ; and Valencia, 14,207. To- 
tal, 61,574. This is exclusive of the in- 
dependent tribes of Indians which still 
exist in the country. The Navajoes are a 
powerful tribe, inhabiting a fine country 
west of the Rio Grande, and numbering 
about 7,000 ; the Eutaws inhabit the 
northwestern frontier, and number 4,000 
or 5,000 ; the Apaches, about 5,000, roam 
over the vast regions east of the Rio 
Grande and north of El Paso ; the Jico- 
rilles, a branch of the Apache family, 
500 in number, are neighbors of the Eu- 
taws on the northwestern frontier. To 
these must be added large parties of Ga- 
vianches, Arrapahoes, and Cheycnnes — 
perhaps 36,000 in number — which infest 
the borders to the north and east, and lay 
the unwai-y traveller under contribution 
— frequently committing the foulest mur- 
ders, or carrying off women and children 
into captivity. 



The chief city of New Mexico is Santa 
Fe, one of the oldest of the Spanish set- 
tlements. Its elevation above the sea is 
7,047 feet. Santa Fe is about twenty 
miles east, in a direct line, from the Rio 
del Norte, and lies in a wide plain, sur- 
rounded by lofty mountains. A small 
creek, rising in the hills and flowing past 
the city, supplies it with water. The 
land around is sandy, poor, and destitute 
of timber ; but the mountains are cov- 
ered with pine and cedar. No pasturage 
is observed about the settlements, and 
as a consequence stock is driven to the 
mountains. The climate is delightful, 
and free from extremes ; the sky is clear 
and cloudless, and the atmosphere dry. 
The houses are built o? adobes (sunburnt 
brick), but one story high, with flat roofs. 
The streets are narrow and irregulai". 
The plaza, or public square, is spacious, 
and one side is occupied by the official 
residence of the executive of the territo- 
ry. The palace is, without being very 
grand, a good building, and exhibits two 
curiosities, viz., windows of glass, and 
festoons of Indian ears. Among the pub- 
lic buildings there are two churches with 
steeples, but of an ordinary construction. 
There are thirty or forty stores in the 
city, principally kept by Americans. The 
inhabitants, except the Americans, are 
Spaniards and Indians, and the castes 
sprung from an indefinite amalgamation 
of the two races. Society is in a deplo- 
rable condition. The native population 
spend their time in card-playing, drink- 
ing, smoking, and q.\. fandangoes. They 
are expert thieves, and live in a misera- 
ble state of ignorance, superstition, dirt, 
and poverty. The city proper contains 
4,000 or 5,000 souls, and about as many 
more are settled within its jurisdiction. 
Santa Fe is the depot of a considerable 
commerce carried on between northern 
Mexico and the western states, and is 
generally visited by the overland emi- 
grants to California. 

Las Vagas, seventy-five miles from 
Santa Fe, contains about 400 inhabitants, 
with a few American families. It is a 
military outpost, and has one company 
of about fifty soldiers. Tecalote, ten 
miles this side of Las Vagas, has about 
200 souls, and a few American families. 



644 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



San Miguel, fifteen miles this side of 
Las Vagas, has about 700 souls, but no 
Americans. San Jose, three miles far- 
ther on, has a population of about 300, 
all Mexicans. There are two or three 
other small villages, off the road. 

Northwardly from Santa Fe, the first 
town of importance is Canada ( Canyar- 
tharj, twenty-five miles distant. It is a 
place of considerable trade, and contains 
about 2,000 inhabitants. The town is 
located about one mile from the eastern 
bank of the Rio del Norte. The valley 
is thickly settled, and is said to be among 
the most beautiful and fertile portions of 
New Mexico. The river is at this place 
one hundred and fifty or two hundred 
yards wide, its current running seven or 
eight miles an hour. At low-water mark 
it is fordable. Proceeding on about for- 
ty-five miles farlher, passing several un- 
important places, you arrive at Taos, 
with a population of about 2,000 souls. 
This is a military station. There are no 
American families here, however. The 
entire Taos valley is populous, and the 
people are wealthy. There are about a 
dozen American families in the region, 
chiefly farmers. 

Throughout this, as well as the valley 
of the Rio Grande, are to be seen mount- 
ains of the most singular shapes imagina- 
ble. Some of them appear like gigantic 
fortifications of very ancient date ; others 
rise hundreds of feet in the form of pyra- 
mids, then surmounted by lofty towers 
of symmetrical proportions, with perpen- 
dicular sides. One high mountain, called 
the Sugarloaf, is seen north of Albiquin, 
resembling a truncated cone. Appi'oach- 
ing Albiquin, the valley is under better 
cultivation, and more productive. This 
part of the valley is more thickly settled 
than that below. 

Albiquin, one of the most northern 
military stations in the territory, is a 
small village, formerly an Indian pueblo, 
and is a romantic place. It is situated 
on a high bluflf, and nearly surrounded 
by mountains. That part of the valley 
seen from the town is truly charming. 
The Rio Chalma runs throuo-h the centre 
of ii , thus rendering irrigation easy. The 
Navajo and Eutaw Indians roam through 
this section of country, to prevent whose 



depredaticns a company of dragoons is 
stationed at Albiquin. 

Southwardly from Santa Fe, the first 
town is Agua Fres (Cold Water), six 
miles distant, and containing about 200 
inhabitants, with few or no Americans. 
Algodonis, forty miles distant, also has 
a population of about 200. Sandia, fifty- 
four miles from Santa Fe, is a pueblo In- 
dian town, containing about 150 souls. 
Albuquerque, a large town seventy miles 
from Santa Fe, has a population of 1,500. 
This is a military station, with a few resi- 
dent American families. Socora is an 
important military station about one hun- 
dred and twenty-five miles south. Zuni, 
about two handred miles distant, is an 
Indian town with a population of 2,000 
or more. This is one of the most re- 
markable tribes on the continent, higlily 
civilized in some respects ; living in good, 
substantial two-story houses ; obtaining 
their livelihood by agriculture ; not war- 
like, yet able to defend thmselves against 
all their enemies. They are noted for 
their intelligence, universal benevolence, 
and kindness of heart. These Indians 
are now citizens of the United States. 
In the same vicinity are the Mochins, 
who are very similar to the Zunians. 

El Paso, three hundred and twenty 
miles from Santa Fe, situated on the Rio 
Grande, has some 300 inhabitants on the 
American side of the river, including a 
few settled American families. A mili- 
tary post is established there. 

Manners and Customs. — The man- 
ners and customs of the New Mexicans 
proper are very similar to those over all 
Mexico, so often described by travellers 
to that country. While the higher clas- 
ses conform themselves more to Ameri- 
can and European fashions, the men of 
the lower classes are faithful to their sc- 
rapes or coloi-ed blankets, and to their 
wide trousers with glittering buttons, and 
split from hip to ankle, to give the white 
cotton drawers also a chance to be seen ; 
and the ladies of all classes are more than 
justified in not giving up their coquettish 
rebozo, a small shawl drawn over the 
head. Both sexes enjoy the cigarito or 
paper-cigar, hold their siesta after din- 
ner, and amuse themselves in the even- 
ing with monte (a hazard game) or fan- 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF NEW MEXICO. 



645 



dangoes. Their dances, which are very 
graceful, are generally a combinati )n of 
quadrille and waltz. 

Tlie principal ingredient in the Mexi- 
can race is Indian blood, which is visible 
in their features, complexion, and dispo- 
sition. The men are, generally taken, 
ill-featured, while the women are often 
quite handsome. Another striking singu- 
larity is the wide difference in the char- 
acter of the two sexes. While the men 
have often been censured for their indo- 
lence, mendacity, treachery, and cruelty, 
the women are active, affectionate, open- 
hearted, and even faithful when their af- 
fections are reciprocated. Though gen- 
erally not initiated in the art of reading 
and writing, the females possess never- 
theless a strong common sense, and a nat- 
ural sympathy for every suffeiing being, 
he it friend or foe, which compensates 
them in some degree for the wants of a 
refined education. The treatment of the 
Texan prisoners is but one of the many 
instances where the cruelties of the Mex- 
ican men were mitigated by the disinter- 
ested kindness of their women. Many 
of the evils of the present slate of society 
in New Mexico will no doubt be eradi- 
cated by the contact of a moi e advanced 
civilization, and education will become an 
indispensable requisite in order to keep 
up with the progress of commerce, and 
tlie influx of an educated population from 
the east. 

The New-Mexicans are a very de- 
vout, though, at the same time, none the 
less immoral people. Their devotion 
consists in all the forms, penances, con- 
fessions, and discipline, imposed by their 
church. All these are performed with 
undoubted sincerity and heartfelt devo- 
tion, and upon these observances and on 
these alone are based all their hopes of 
"eleinal life." The New Mexican ri- 
sing generation exhibit an aptness to 
learn, and are easily controlled and di- 
rected, and by no means want talent and 
capacity to become enlightened and in- 
dependent in opinion. AVith a single ex- 
ception, no really effective schools exist 
among them, though much desired by all 
composing the better classes. Could a 
general plan of education be established, 
much good might be expected to ibllow. 



New Mexico, previous to the late war, 
as before remarked, was a state of the 
Mexican republic, and its rulers consist- 
ed of a governor and legislature (jutita 
departmental); but as the latter was 
more an imaginary than a real powei-, 
the governor was, in fact, despotic, and 
subject only to the laws of revolution, 
which, in this state, were very freely ad- 
ministered by upsetting the gubernatorial 
chair as often as the republic at large did 
the presidential. Well knowing the fa- 
vors of fortune were at all times precari- 
ous, the governors, in general, while in 
office, plundered the treasury and pro- 
vided against contingencies ! The peo- 
ple, credulous and easily deceived, had 
to submit to every outrage; and should 
one, more courageous than his fellows, 
assert the profligacy of the government, 
his doom was as certain as speedy. Thus 
has New Mexico dragged on its exist- 
ence — the sport of despots and the foot- 
ball of fortune. The judiciary was as de- 
pendent as the executive was indepen- 
dent, and all law succumbed to the dic- 
tates of one man. Besides these, the 
clergy, as well as the military classes, 
had their own courts of justice. In re- 
lation to the confederacy, however, New 
Mexico always maintained greater inde- 
pendence than any other of the states — 
partly from its distance from the capital, 
but more from the spirit of opposition in 
the people, who derived no advantage 
from the connexion, and suffered much 
from its taxation, without an equivalent 
protection. The supreme government 
never succeeded here in imposing upon 
the people the estranquillas, or monopo- 
ly of the sale of tobacco, and New Mex- 
ico was free from some other enormities. 
In the same way the people resisted the 
introduction of copper coin. This loose 
connexion with the central power will 
aid much in the assimilation of the peo- 
ple of this newly-acquired territory wiih 
the immigrants from other parts of the 
American Union, especially as the gov- 
ernment of the latter will bestow upon 
them — what the former could not — sta- 
bility, safety, protection, and the just 
righls which are enjoyed by all persons 
under the aegis of American republican 
principles. 



646 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. 



TERRITORY OF UTAH. 



That portion of Alta-California, now 
designated as the territory of Utah, was 
never settled by the Spaniards, nor was 
it ever more than a nominal dependency 
of that nation or of the Mexican repub- 
lic. Previous to the Mexican war, in- 
deed, few white men, except those en- 
gaged in scientific explorations, had en- 
tered the country. About the period 
when that war broke out, the Mormons 
were driven from their city of Nauvoo, 
in Illinois, by mob violence ; and shortly 
afterward a portion of them, under the 
leadership of Strang, removed to Beaver 
island in Lake Michigan, while the main 
body of the sect, directed by Brigham 
Young (who was regarded as their true 
" prophet" after the death of their found- 
er, Joseph Smith, and in opposition to the 
•' infidel" leader Strang), migrated to the 
borders of the Great Salt lake. Their set- 
tlements became prosjaerous and popu- 
lous, and within two years after the first 
pioneers had entered the country, their 
numbers had increased to about 10,000. 
After peace had been ratified, they found 
themselves without a civil government, 
and without protection for their persons 
or property. To remedy this anomalous 
condition of things, they organized a tem- 
porary government under the style of the 
" State of Deseret." Under its sanc- 
tion they elected officers to manage the 
affairs of the commonwealth, and made 
application to Congress to be admitted 
into the Union as a sovereign state. But 
Congress did not deem that this new set- 
tlement had arrived at that state of ma- 
turity which would justify its erection 
into a state, and passed a law authorizing 
its organization as a territory, with the 
following limits : on the west it is bound- 
ed by the state of California, on the north 
by the territory of Oregon, on the east 
by the summit of the Rocky mountains, 
and on the south by the thirty-seventh 
parallel of latitude. Congress reserved 
the right with Utah, as also with New 
Mexico, to divide it into two or more 
territories, or to attach portions of it to 
any state or territory in such manner and 



at such times as it shall deem convenient 
and proper. 

Utah is one of the most singular coun- 
tries in the world. The great basin in 
which it is situated between the Sierra 
Nevada and the mountains of New Mex- 
ico, is some five hundred miles in diame- 
ter every way, and comprises an area of 
393,691 square miles. It is between four 
and five thousand feet above the level 
of the sea, shut in all around by mount- 
ains, with its own system of lakes and 
rivers, and without any direct connexion 
with the ocean. Partly arid and thinly 
inhabited, its general character is that of 
a desert, but with grea,t exceptions — 
there being many parts of it very fit for 
the residence of a civilized people ; and 
of these the Mormons have established 
themselves in one of the largest and best. 
Mountain is the predominating structure 
of the interior of the basin, with plains 
between — the mountains wooded and wa- 
tered, the plains arid and sterile. 

In the northern part of this basin lies 
the Great Salt lake. The waters of this 
sheet are shallow, so far as explored ; 
though probably its central parts will be 
found very deep. Its waters are intense- 
ly salt, more so than those of the ocean 
— three gallons makino; one gallon of the 
purest, whitest, and finest salt. South- 
east of this lake, shut in by the mount- 
ains, lies the Mormon valley, which con- 
tains their capital city. This valley is 
thirty miles long by twenty-two broad, 
connected with another valley which is 
about fifty miles by eight. These two 
valleys contain the principal body of the 
settlers, to the number of some 30,000 or 
40,000. Explorers think that ihey are 
capable of supporting a population of a 
million. The Humboldt river is the prin- 
cipal water-course of the great basin, and 
possesses qualities which, in the progress 
of events, may give it both value and 
fame. It lies in the line of travel to Cal- 
ifornia and Oregon, and is the best route 
now known through the great basin, and 
the one travelled by emigrants. Its di- 
rection, east and west, is the right course 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF UTAH. 



647 



for that travel. It furnishes a level, un- 
obstructed w^ay for nearly three Imndred 
miles, and a plentiful supply of the in- 
dispensable articles of water, wood, and 
grass. Its head is toward the Great Salt 
lake, and consequently toward tlie Mor- 
mon settlements, which must become a 
point in the line of emigration to Califor- 
nia and the lower CoUimbia. Its termi- 
nation is within fifty miles of the base of 
the Sierra Nevada, and opposite the Sal- 
mon Trout river pass — a pass only seven 
thousand two hundred feet above the lev- 
el of the sea, and less than half that above 
the level of the basin, and leading into 
the valley of the Sacramento, some forty 
miles north of Sutter's fort. These prop- 
erties give to this I'iver a prospective 
value in future communications with the 
Pacific. The Rio Gila bounds the ter- 
ritory on the south, and the Rio Colora- 
do traverses it in a southwest direction 
from the Rocky mountains to the gulf 
of California, into which both rivers emp- 
ty by one mouth. 

The City of the Great Salt Lake, 
tho capital of Utah, is beautifully laid 
out, within a short distance of the mount- 
ain forming the eastern end of the valley. 
It contains from 20,000 to 25,000 inhab- 
itants, who ai'e mostly engnged in agri- 
culture, though a portion of their time is 
devoted to mechanical pursuits when un- 
derstood. The streets of the city inter- 
sect each other at right angles, and each 
block is half a mile square, with an alley 
from east to west and north to south. 
Each block is called a ward, and has a 
bishop to preside over its government, 
whose duties are to act as magistrates, 
tax-collectors, and preachers, as well as 
street commissioners. The city and all 
the farming land are irrigated by streams 
of pure water which flow from the adja- 
cent mountains: these streams have been, 
with great labor and perseverance, led in 
every direction. In the city they flow 
on each side of the different streets, and 
their waters are let upon the inhabitants' 
gardens at regular periods; so likewise 
upon the extensive fields of grain lying 
in the south of the city. 

Fifty miles south of this city is the 
Utah lake and valley. Here lies the city 
of Prava, on the Prava river. The lake 



is of pure water, eight miles long by four 
in width, and abounds in fish. There is 
still another valley, one hundred miles 
farther south, called San Pete, where is 
also a settlement ; and here are the hie- 
roglyphic ruins, the remains of glazed 
pottery, &c., that indicate the former ex- 
istence of the outlying cities of the Aztec 
empire. 

Wheat, oats, and barley, yield abun- 
dantly in the great valley. Melons and 
all the vines grow in perfection, as also 
do vegetables ; while hopeful eff"ort8 ai-e 
making to raise the olive, orange, lemon, 
pineapple, tea, coffee, &c. The valley 
below produces tropical fruits, while the 
beach land or old lake shore, at the alti- 
tude of three or four hundred feet, brings 
forth all the productions of the temperate 
zones ; and still higher up, the cedar, pine, 
juniper, and other evergreens of a north- 
ern clime, flourish. The pasturage on 
the plains, as well as on the beach land 
and side-hills, is luxuriant (the veidure 
reaching to the mountain-tops), equal for 
fattening qualities to that of California. 

Utah abounds in minerals. A geo- 
graphical survey has brought to light an 
inexhanstiblebed of stone-coal, equalling 
that of Newcastle ; iron ore, with a vein 
of silver running through it, which latter 
alone would pay for working ; gold, in 
small quantities, and platina, are found ; 
and traces of copper and zinc have been 
discovered. Its mineral springs are fa- 
mous, little as they have been tried, and 
their analysis shows them to be equal to 
those most resorted to at the east. 

The country only needs a thorough in- 
vestigation, and hands enough to develop 
its resources, and the populati(jn will be 
independent of supplies I'rom other quar- 
ters. In conducting tfce river Jordan by 
canal to the city of the Great Salt lake, 
a distance of twenty-five miles along the 
foot of the mountains, an immense scope 
of land is brought under the influence of 
irrigation, besides a vast water-power for 
machinery. The Mormons are already 
about to set up and finish their machines, 
furnaces, &c., for smelling ore, casting 
rails, and finishing engines, for manufac- 
turing purposes as well as for railways 
to connect themselves with the neighbor- 
ing country. A southei'n railway, to tap 



648 



DESCRIPTION OF THE TERRITORY OF UTA%. - 



the Pacific at some practicable point, is 
a favorite plan with them ; a road to Ore- 
gon is also contemplated ; and the rail- 
way from the head of navigation on the 
Missouri to the Salt-lake valley will one 
day be as much travelled as any of our 
main thoi'oughfares are at present. 

The whole character of the territory of 
Utah is singular. While its geographi- 
cal position and features are unlike those 
of any other portion of North America, 
its origin and the manner of its settle- 
ment are no less strange. It is doubtful 
if it would have been settled for many 
years to come, had not persecution driven 
the Mormons to seek refuge and a home 
in its distant limits. They established 
themselves here, at first, with the idea 
that they would be cut off from the world 
by the natural difficulties of the contigu- 
ous territory and the peculiarity of their 
situation. Here they expected to form, 
in secrecy and silence, a great, peculiar 
religious empire ; but the stream of Cali- 
fornia emigration discovered their trail 
and invaded their principality, and their 
territory is now the open, exposed half- 
way house to the Pacific. Its peculiar 
locality is and will continue to be of 
essential service as a stopping-place for 
the army of emigrants that, year after 
year, will seek California or Oregon by 
the southern pass ; and when the Pacific 
railway is comi)leted, it will prove of in- 
calculable benefit as a great station-house 
on the route. The apprehension, how- 



ever, is not altogether groundless, that 
in a community whose peculiar religious 
faith is made paramount to all other ob- 
ligations, a spirit, of disaffection may be 
engendered toward the United States 
government, which will result in an at- 
tempt to renounce their allegiance, and 
to place themselves beyond the protect- 
ing aegis of the Union. Indeed, such a 
feeling has already " cast its shadow be- 
fore." It is to be hoped, however, that 
while all their natural and constitutional 
rights shall be properly respected, a wise 
and timely precaution will be exercised 
by the United States authorities to insure 
from the.m a due obedience to the con- 
stitution and laws of the Union. And 
however much we may regret to see a 
community, numbering a population of 
some 40,000 souls, so wedded to a reli- 
gious faith which is little short of the 
wildest fanaticism, and among whose 
fruits is gross licentiousness, we can not 
but admire the enterprise, the industry 
and perseverance, which have laid the 
foundation of a future state in the deep 
recesses of our vast wilderness territory, 
and which are destined to transform that 
desert region into smiling gardens and 
fruitful fields. The foundation of Utah 
will stand on the page of history as co- 
eval with that of California, and the rec- 
ord of its rise and progress will be re- 
garded (though for far different reasons) 
as scarcely less marvellous and unprece- 
dented. 




Seal of the United States. 



IHM Oo4r.«^ 



